A VIEW FROM THE HILLS

The Call of the Cairngorms

Blessed with atmospheric lochs, majestic glens, ancient lush green forests and, of course, the breathtaking heights of the mountains, the Cairngorm National Park holds a special place in the affections of Deputy Editor Robert Yarham. His account of all that enchants him about the landscape and its wildlife begins a new series of articles entitled ‘A View from the Hills’, here illustrated by the photography of Martin Hunter.

ABOVE The great Cairngorm mountain is a popular centre for winter and summer outdoor pursuits, such as hill walking.

RIGHT Leisure activities in nearby Glen Morlich include watersports, and yet the loch still echoes to the haunting cries of red-throated divers in the spring, while golden eagles may be seen overhead. A VIEW FROM THE HILLS A VIEW FROM THE HILLS

OMINATING the and together with the surrounding glens, round and shape the mountains and glens activity during the winter – skiing – RIGHT The spectacular Devil’s heart of Britain’s straths, lochs and forest they provide we see today. and the bustling town of Aviemore has Point, seen from the ‘middle ridge’ newest and largest the setting for a vast range of landscape, I first came to this area years ago, expanded, and is still expanding, to meet footpath on Cairngorm.

national park and wildlife, leisure activities and agriculture. attracted by the diversity and beauty the demand for a tourist base for winter BELOW The dramatic, steep-sided ruled over by the The great granite mountains were of the very special wildlife of the sports. On the Hill, the newly expanded pass of Lairig Ghru cuts through great Cairngorm formed about four million years ago, Highlands, and have been enthralled by Visitor Centre and funicular train feed the Cairngorms from north to itself,D called ‘the Hill’ by the locals with when the area was volcanically active. it ever since. It has also captured the the Ptarmigan restaurant, with its south and once provided a cattle typically quiet understatement, the Huge swells of magma forced their way affections of many other people too – spectacular views across the high plateau drovers’ route to Braemar on the Cairngorms are the grand old men of up through the earth’s crust, pushing up it is estimated that about half a million and, during the season (February and south side of the Cairngorms. the central Highlands. They loom over the rock above them. After the magma people visit the Cairngorms every year, March are usually the best months) streams the to the north and the Dee hardened, time and the unstoppable, for many different reasons. of skiers make their way to the tops. to the south. Four of ’s five unimaginable forces of erosion filed away Of course, these mountains are most But there are more attractions available highest mountains are to be found here, the softer rock, leaving several ice ages to famous for the area’s prime leisure all year round, in the shape of walking, climbing, fishing, shooting, golf, and ancient Caledonian pine forest that once male birds displaying their plumage and The great Abernethy pine forest and its surroundings watersports on the main lochs in the covered thousands of square miles of courting the smaller brown females at a “ area. And then there is the wildlife – the Scotland.With its range of flora, ‘lek’ may be possible at RSPB-organised magnet which draws me and many other including Scots pine, juniper, birch, watches at . The closely- people back to this magical place time willow, rowan and aspen, the rich forest related local black grouse are even harder hold some of the most fascinating and spectacular draws for and again. provides an ideal home for a vast number to see, and searching for them, as for The rare and remarkable environment of plant and animal species, some of caper, in the woods is now actively those seeking out the special wildlife of the Highlands. of the Cairngorm and Ben Macdui which are endemic to Scotland. discouraged, as human disturbance ” plateaux, the largest area of its kind in It is this great forest and its threatens the existence of these enigmatic Britain, plays host to some of Britain’s surroundings that hold some of the most birds, with their bubble-and-squeak calls. rarest animals and birds. Above 600 fascinating and spectacular draws for The picturesque village of Boat of metres, the arctic tundra conditions mean those seeking out the special wildlife of Garten, sitting by the banks of the River FAR LEFT A dense and mysterious setting for a vast range of wildlife, that mountain hare, ptarmigan and snow the Highlands. Already lost once, with Spey, became famous in 1954 when the including the elusive Scottish wildcat, pinemarten and capercaillie, bunting inhabit the high places all the current population descended from spectacular osprey – the large fish-eating the is an enchanted throwback to the great Caledonian through the year and are joined by birds reintroduced by the Victorians, the bird of prey – returned to the area after pine forest of Scotland’s prehistory. dotterel and ring ouzel in spring, when capercaillie – the great game bird of the an absence of nearly 40 years. Perhaps MIDDLE The salmon-stocked rivers in the area bring fishermen as well much of the snow melts. Then there is woods – still hangs on in its last the most well-known story of as ospreys back year after year. always the chance of glimpsing the awe- strongholds in the area, largely thanks conservation, both locally and nationally, inspiring golden eagle, which also breeds to the RSPB’s ongoing fight against the ospreys at Loch Garten still draw TOP RIGHT The area has been famous for birdwatching since 1954, when ospreys in the mountains and forests here and dwindling habitat and its powers of huge numbers of visitors here, although returned to breed nearby for the first time after an absence of nearly 40 years. soars over the glens. persuasion with local estate owners, who there are now estimated to be about Hides are provided at key spots to help you get closer to the wildlife. Down from the tops and nestling to are encouraged to erect ‘caper-friendly’ 150 pairs of this majestic bird spread BOTTOM RIGHT The picturesque Strathspey Steam Railway runs between the north of the hills is the Abernethy deer fences. If you are really lucky, an throughout Scotland. Even local fish Aviemore and Boat of Garten and is a popular element of many a visit Forest, part of what remains of the early-morning sighting of the proud farms, who once may have feared the to the Cairngorms.

62 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIn / Spring 2006 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIn / Spring 2006 63 ABOVE The proud ruins of Ruthven Barracks watch These days, the osprey serves as a conserving nature in all its forms. They over Marshes RSPB reserve. The Barracks potent symbol, not just of successful form a vital part of the local economy, were built to suppress the Highlands after the wildlife conservation in the Cairngorms attracting visitors from afar to experi- 1715 rebellion but were blown up by the Jacobites. but of the economic benefits to the ence and wonder at the scenery and whole of Scotland from the modern wildlife, and to contribute to their ospreys, now allow them to take what phenomenon of ‘eco-tourism’. continued preservation. they need. One enterprising local Loch Garten, together with the This is the true beauty of the fishery, on the Rothiemurchus Estate Cairngorm plateaux and local reserves Cairngorms: the co-existence of tourism near Aviemore, charges a modest fee for such as the nearby Insh Marshes, which and nature conservation, the bringing watching the ospreys make their watery are overlooked by the towering remains together of people and wildlife, to their splash-and-grab from the comfort of of Ruthven barracks, provide more than mutual benefit. It is this that makes it a hides overlooking the fish ponds. just a nationally important role in very special place indeed. BB

WALKING ON THE WILD SIDE RECOMMENDED

o get the best from the Grantown-on-Spey. They can Because of the Cairngorms’ Tarea’s scenery and introduce you to the area popularity for outdoor wildlife, contact the Tourist and provide details of local activity, there are many Information Office in wildlife and walking tours. friendly companies who can cater to every need, be it walking, wildlife-watching, climbing, riding, cycling, fishing, golf or watersports. If you prefer to explore on your own, please abide by Featuring the work of two local the wildlife and countryside photographers, Peter Cairns and Mark codes of conduct, and Hamblin,Wild Land introduces readers respect the weather, to the natural history of the especially on the Hill! Cairngorms.This title is available at For Grantown-on-Spey Tourist a special price to BEAUTIFUL Information, telephone: BRITAIN readers. Turn to page 74 to 01479 810363 find out more.

64 BEAUTIFUL BRITAIn / Spring 2006