• Neuchâtel • Europe Travel Briefs • Readers' Forum GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, & the New Europe

THIS ISSUE: • Horological Museum

DEAR SUBSCRIBER NEUCHÂTEL & July 28, 1994 LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS Digging Out Come burrow with me through Our Bruce Woelfel is just back from the Swiss Canton of Neuchâtel with an enthusiastic a desk littered with newspaper clip- report on the beautiful lakeside city of Neuchâtel and nearby La Chaux-de Fonds, the cradle pings, unanswered subscriber cor- of the clock-making industry. respondence, guide books, press releases, faxes, travel brochures and euchâtel is an completed tunneling scribbled phone notes. Let’s see if incredibly which took 15 years of we can make something of it. N beautiful medi- exacting work. Rock excavated from the ❏ In its August issue, the eval and renaissance city conscience of the travel industry, at the foot of the Jura, project was used to line Consumer Reports Newsletter, in a facing the Alps. It borders the waterfront. review of more than 20 travel news- the shore of Switzerland’s The city’s history letters, made Gemütlichkeit an largest inland lake and is “Editor’s Choice” and called it “a gives clues to its inde- surrounded by gently pendent and progressive real find for the frequent visitor to sloping vineyards. A 12th German-speaking Europe.” I’d bow character. A part of but things are getting a little thin on century castle and Burgundy during the top and it’s embarrassing. collegiate church domi- 11th century, Neuchâtel nate its perfectly pre- ❏ was governed by the For the first time, Balair served buildings of (officially now Balair-CTA), the Harbor view from guest room Holy Roman Empire, Swissair subsidiary, will continue honey-colored stone. in Hotel Touring au Lac then allied with the to operate its Tuesday flight from Adjoining the lake are Swiss confederation San Francisco to through the flowering quays, green which stretched far into from the 15th century on. fall and winter. The stopover city parks, promenades, the distance; the entire lake It became independent will change from Halifax to Calgary, marinas and luxury thereby shortening the trip by one front is available to city in 1648 and remained an hotels, some of the latter dwellers for boating and autonomous principality, hour. Also, starting November 2, enclosed by the shells of Balair will offer a year-round Zürich- swimming. Then I toured although in 1707 it Calgary-Honolulu flight. the older buildings they the city, walking narrow choose Frederick of replaced. ❏ Subscriber Herbert St. Goar alleys of irregular ancient Prussia as its prince. It hopes when we do our story on A wonderful city! My buildings with glassed-in became a Canton of Baden-Baden that we will mention greatest appreciation displays of merchandise, Switzerland in 1814, but Steigenberger Badischer Hof, a ho- came seeing it from the and into little plazas with was still claimed by tel Mr. St. Goar chooses because it edge of the lake early on a gilded, medieval statues. Prussia until 1857. is the only one with an inside ther- Sunday morning after a mal pool. Baden-Baden is on our Aside from its beauty, Neuchâtel has rainy night, with the city publication schedule for this fall, Neuchâtel is remarkable benefited by its accep- but we missed the Badischer Hof so still asleep, when there for its extensive pedestri- tance of religious and it won’t be part of our story. You’ll was clear air and fantastic, an areas, and on its streets political nonconformity, have to take Mr. St. Goar’s word (for dramatic lighting. It was there is little traffic, only a especially during the which I unhesitatingly vouch) on it. a skyline of sharp roof He also recommends the Restau- few cars, even at rush period from 1665-1685 tops and soft colors, hour. Three intersecting when King Louis XIV rant Stahlbad, where he says the etched in sunlight against food is much better than at the main roads have been persecuted Protestants a background of hovering Brenner’s Park. buried beneath the and finally revoked the dark clouds. ground. The quiet streets 1598 Treaty of Nantes ❏ Bill Stall, a Los Angeles Times writer and Gemütlichkeit sub- I strolled the pristine and beautiful shoreline are which had defined the white rock waterfront the result of this recently Con Continued on page 2… Continued on page 3… pa July, 1994 Gemütlichkeit’s 1993 Hotel of the Year. the tourist office." It is unthinkable that even the DEAR SUBSCRIBER ❏ smallest California hamlet would not appear on a Continued from page 1 In a series on the world’s best restaurants, map of the state. But that's not true in Europe. A the International Herald Tribune’s restaurant critic, scriber, visits Switzerland frequently to ski, hike few months ago, for example, we published a Patricia Wells, picks the top tables in Switzerland. letter from a subscriber about the charming vil- and mountain climb. You may have read his Her choices are: #1 Restaurant Fredy Girardet in articles — which are picked up by newspapers lage of , north of Zürich. We soon Crissier, near , phone 21/634 0505; #2 began receiving calls from readers asking if we across the country — in the travel section of your Restaurant Pierroz (Hotel Rosalp) in Verbier, local paper. In a recent note to us he described the hadn't confused Regensberg with Regensdorf, a phone 26/31 63 23; and, #3 Petermann’s small town, also north of Zürich. Well, there really three-star City Hotel in as “run down and Kunststube, in Küsnacht, a Zürich suburb, phone seedy” and the staff “largely invisible and not is a Regensberg. It just isn't on every map of 1/910 0715. For what she terms “casual dining” Switzerland, including the one distributed free by terribly helpful.” He called the Einstein apartment the top three picks are: #1 La Grappe d'Or in at 49 Kramgasse, where Einstein wrote the theory the Swiss Tourist Office. I suppose since Califor- Lausanne, phone 212/323 0760; #2 Au Vieux nia is substantially larger than Germany, and we of relativity, a “real treat.” And we are in agreement Valais, in Verbier, phone 26/31 69 55; #3 that Bern’s famed bear pit is rather sad. need only a single map to guide us around the Kronenhalle, in Zürich, phone 1/251 66 69. state, it seems logical that we ought to be able to ❏ We have had many positive comments Gemütlichkeit has reviewed four of the six restau- get along with just one map in Germany. You, about our 1992 Hotel of the Year, the Geiger in rants, having not yet been to Girardet or Au Vieux who have been there, know otherwise, but the Berchtesgaden. However, not everyone has come Valais. We like all four but Kronenhalle is the most concept of toting five or six maps (at $5.95 a pop) away enamored. J. B. Jamieson of Atherton, CA, entertaining “place to be” and La Grappe d’Or has to cover only a portion of a small country is one termed his experience there “Godawful.” His room, the best food. I’m not sure how Ms. Wells defines I had trouble getting across. (Incidentally, if Number 12 in the main building, had no heat in “casual dining” but to me it’s blue jeans and prices you're Ashland bound, the three best restaurants September and “secondhand, Salvation Army fur- that don’t resemble my monthly mortgage pay- in town are Thai Pepper, Cucina Biazzi and New niture.” In the dining room, after a series of loud ment. None of these six qualify on either score. Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro.) crashes from the kitchen, the waiter said there The least expensive is Kronenhalle where you would be a short delay with dinner. The meal took figure to drop about $50 per person for a two or My second impression is that there are a lot three hours. He said he saw no sign of the Geiger three course meal and ordinary wine. At Girardet, of very good travel guides that have come on the family — father or son — and the desk person was dinner for two with a bottle of appropriate wine will market in the last few years. be from $300 to $400. a “teenager.” The Jamieson’s cut short their visit, For budget travelers, the Rough Guide se- leaving after one disastrous night. She says Switzerland is a “nation where the ries, published in London, the new Berkeley Another subscriber, whose name I have mis- food can be frankly frumpy (you’ll still see lots of Guides, and Australia-based Lonely Planet Guides placed, told me about a major malfunction of his veal cordon bleu on the menu).” This from some- are fat references full of practical advice, phone & room’s toilet. The problem was never resolved, one who hails from the land of chicken fried steak fax numbers, addresses and destination informa- even after several discussions with management. and hot roast beef sandwiches? Lighten up, Patty. tion. Unlike the more straightforward old stand- Even France isn't immune to “frumpy” food. Ever bys, such as Fodor's and Frommer's, the authors Our own experiences at the Geiger have been heard of french fries...er, I mean pommes frites? of these books don't shy away from expressing terrific, but it’s been a couple of years and things ❏ an opinion. You may not agree with the point of change. Anyone been there lately? Earlier this month I spent a week in our view but it makes for livelier reading. retail travel store — Travel Essentials — in ❏ The Jamieson’s did, however, ask us to Ashland, Oregon. As usual for this time of year, the The most spectacular new travel books are pass along their recommendation for a short ex- town was full of tourists, most of them to see the Eyewitness Guides from Dorling Kindersley of cursion from Poschiavo, in the southeastern tip of Shakespeare and other plays in the three festival London. These gorgeous guides to London, Switzerland. Heading south from Poschiavo the theaters. It gave me an opportunity to talk to Paris, Rome and New York feature 3-D graphics, train stop is Le Prese. From there it’s a short people on their way to all corners of the world, hundreds of full color photos, a rugged binding distance to Hotel Le Prese (phone 82/50333, fax including some to Europe. I came away with a and are beautifully printed. Good gifts for anyone 92/50835) on Lago di Poschiavo where they report couple of impressions: Americans don't like to heading to one of these cities. Equally elegant are a delightful lunch on the hotel’s terrace overlook- spend money on maps. "Hey, just give me a map guidebooks entitled Vienna and Amsterdam, pub- ing the lake. They also liked Hotel Grüner Baum, of Europe." "Oh, I got a nice map of Germany from lished by Knopf.

Vol. 8, No. 7 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY July, 1994 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Category Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Unacceptable 0 - 3 People/Service 30% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Adequate 4 - 7 Location/Setting 15% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Above Average 12 - 15 Public rooms 5% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Excellent 16 - 20 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Subscription Dept:. Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Special Designations Restaurant Criteria Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- G By virtue of location, decor, Food 65% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- special charm, warmth of Service 20% 6722 or 510/538-0628. FAX: 510/582-8296. Subscriptions are $67 per year management, or combina- Atmosphere 15% for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this tion thereof, an especially publication, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. pleasant establishment. Second-class postage paid in Hayward, CA. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: $ Offers significant value. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 July, 1994 All around me, students and young NEUCHÂTEL NEUCHÂTEL business people engaged in vigor- Continued from page 1 Population: 40,000 ous conversation as they enjoyed rights of French Protestants. These Altitude: 1,518 feet the bright sunshine and unique actions drove many highly skilled Approximate Travel times setting. workers and artists from France, Auto Rail An area that prides itself on its and some found safe haven in Bern 45 Mins 40 Mins technology, Neuchâtel has superb Neuchâtel. 1.5 Hrs 1 Hr 40 Mins rail connections to France and to In 1762, Neuchâtel provided 1.5 Hrs 1 Hr 10 Mins other Swiss cities. Two direct daily temporary refuge for French writer Zürich 1.5 Hrs 1 Hr 50 Mins TGV runs reach Paris in only four Paris 6 Hrs 4 Hrs and philosopher Jean Jacques hours and other express trains Rousseau, who fled the ecclesiasti- Tourist Information leave hourly for major Swiss cities. cal authorities of Paris and Geneva. Federation Neuchâteloise du Tourisme Road access is also good. It is only The city contains the mansion of Du Rue du Tresor 9, CH-2001 Neuchâtel a few kilometers from the Swiss Phone: 038 25 17 89 Fax: 038 24 49 40 Peyrou, Rousseau's friend, protec- motorway network heading east Events (Bern, Zürich, Basel), to the west tor and publisher. Later, in the 19th The last weekend of September is the century, it sheltered writers Andre (Lausanne, Geneva), or to the south high point of the year, when the three-day (Valais, the Alps). Quiet and Gide and Alexander Dumas. Fete des Vendanges (wine harvest efficient transportation within the The region has prospered festival) brings thousands of visitors to enjoy a variety of entertainment including city is provided by electric trolley during the 19th and 20th centuries. a procession of floral floats. buses and a very comfortable light Neuchâtel, Le Locle, and La Chaux- rail line which runs along the shore. de-Fonds in the same canton, have Places and Activities of Special Interest become famous throughout Europe • Walking Tour of the City. During A special attraction is a demon- for watchmaking. The region is also July and August on Thursday morning at stration of the Jaquet-Droz Automa- known for chocolate, tobacco and 9:30 in front of the Tour de Diesse on the tons, miniature figures built 1769- rue du Chateau. Price 8.50 Sfr. ($6.50) for 1780, the first Sunday of each month cheese production, and its vine- adults, 3 Sfr. ($2.25) for children. yards produce wines of distinction, at The Museum of Art and History. the whites with a bit of sparkle, and • Boat Trips. Lake Neuchâtel, the These consist of three figures: a the Pinot Noirs rich and mellow. largest lake wholly in Switzerland, is woman 30 inches tall with tiny connected by navigable canals to the lakes fingers articulated in great detail. A university town and business of Bienne and Morat. A wide variety of She breathes (the bosom moves in center, Neuchâtel is renowned for crossings and cruises operate during the and out) and plays music on a wind summer, many with snack and dining the quality of its spoken French piano. Of the two 24-inch child language, reputedly the best facilities. Details at the Port or the Tourist Office, 7 rue de la Place d’Armes. figures, one draws different objects anywhere. Its university attracts (a dog on this occasion), and the many students from outside • The Jaquet-Droz Automatons. other writes (“Je pense, donc J’exist”) Switzerland and contributes to the Museum of Art and History, 1 Quai with a pen on paper. The attendant Leopold-Robert, Neuchâtel. Performances cultural life of the city. I attended a who conducted the demonstrations delightful French restoration the first Sunday of the month at 2 p.m., 3 p.m. and 4 p.m.. Admission 8 Sfr. ($6) showed great pride in the intricate comedy in the small city theater, and complex figures (the writing enjoying a sandwich and taste of • Guided Tours of the Castle. The child has 6500 parts), and charmed white wine in the theater café Chateau and Collegiate Church of watching children by opening the before the performance. Dance, Neuchâtel form one of the most important groups of historic buildings in Switzer- automatons backs to show the music and cinema are also available land. Tours: April 1st to September, on the intricate insides and carrying them here during the summer months. hour, Monday to Friday 10 a.m. through 4 around to be examined in detail. The city has a distinctly French p.m.. Sundays and holidays 2-5 p.m. The museum also has exhibits of flavor. Its center throbs with a Admission free. furniture, gold artifacts, paintings fresh, energetic atmosphere remi- • Au Gor du Vauseyon. Beautiful and scepters, of the 16th and 17th niscent of the area around Pom- natural area in the heart of town , with Century rulers of Neuchâtel. pideau Center in Paris. Lunching gorges, waterfalls and ruins of 16th Neuchâtel Hotels on a cobblestone terrace in front of century mills. Trails and bridges link with paths leading to the town of Valangin. Restaurant Hotel Le Marche, which Take No.1 bus from Place Pury, direction Hotel Beaufort EDITOR’S looks like a chateau with its medi- Cormondreche. By far the city's most CHOICE eval pointed towers, I felt like I was • Vine and Wine Museum at the elegant hotel, on a stunning site at in a mini-Paris, without the rude the edge of the lake. The striking waiters. But there was something Chateau de Boudry. Tracing the history of wine-making from ancestral practices to new building resides inside what else, more Swiss in character: the the most modern techniques. The Chateau was originally a 19th century atmosphere of a university town is the birthplace of Jean-Paul Marat. apartment. This 5-star “boutique combined with a business center. Thursday through Sunday 2-5 p.m. Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 July, 1994 Closed: Never Upstairs the rooms are pleasant NEUCHÂTEL Parking: 400 spaces under build- albeit plain, but drab brown halls Continued from page 3 ing, 10 Sfr. ($7.50) per night. and worn spots in the carpet hotel,” with only 70 rooms, retains Rating: EXCELLENT 18/20 G indicate the need for some spiffing the exterior of the magnificent older Beaulac up. Singles are above average in size and have large bathrooms. All building, although a screen of glass, A new four-star hotel overlook- to enclose the old walls, has been rooms are the same price and ing the lake, marina and port. added on the lakeside ground floor. decor, lakeside and city side, so ask Modern, elegant interior. Three The large, sumptuous restaurant for a room facing the water. The restaurants and lakeside terrace. and lobby offer panoramic views of restaurant serves an attractive and Large rooms with lake views, but the lake. reasonably priced lunch: trout without balconies, a result of filets, frites, salad bar, 1/3 bottle Guestrooms are spacious, retaining the original exterior local wine (very good), 34 Sfr ($25). luxurious and expensive, befitting facade. The building was con- Also in the restaurant: a good the hotel’s rating. A bargain can be structed to accommodate guests breakfast included in room price; obtained for top floor rooms which who require extremely high croissants, fresh rolls, cheese, are equally large and luxurious, but security. It has its own heliport with lower ceilings (9' instead of 12') with a separate entrance, as well as Address: Hotel Touring au Lac, 1, and smaller windows, a result of the a floor which can be closed off from place Numa-Droz, CH 2001 necessity of preserving the exterior the rest of the building. All rooms Neuchâtel facade. All rooms have big, seg- are above average in size and have mented bathrooms with separate Phone: 038/25 5501 big bathrooms with huge tubs, showers and large tubs; walk-in Fax: 038/25 8243 closets; a separate bar unit com- Address: Hotel Beaulac, Quais Location: Adjacent to port and bined with safe, and several other Leopold 2, CH-2001 Neuchâtel marina special features. The suites are Phone: 4138/25 8822 Rooms: 10 singles, 32 doubles particularly lavish, some with two Fax: 4138/25 6035 Proprietors: Bondolfi family bedrooms and terraces facing the Location: Overlooking the port on Prices: Singles 105 Sfr. ($78), lake. Quai Leopold-Robert doubles 165 Sfr. ($122) The restaurant offers three- Rooms: 4 singles, 66 doubles. Meals: All available course lunches (typical: tomato and Proprietor: Fabien Chatelat, Facilities: Small conference rooms lettuce salad, lake fish filet, potatoes Director Credit Cards: All and cream tart) for $25. Dinners of Prices: Single 150 -170 Sfr. ($111- Disabled: Good access four-courses (typical: soup, filets of $126), double 185-260 Sfr. ($137- Closed: Never lake perch, fricasseed rabbit with $193), suites 290-550 Sfr. ($215- Parking: Free space for 3-4 cars. mushrooms, green beans and $407), including American break- Curb spaces also available polenta, chocolate profiteroles) for Rating: AVERAGE 10/20 $40. A bottle of Neuchâtel white fast Meals: All available wine is $20, a bottle of Swiss beer $2. Hotel du Vaisseau Facilities: Banquet rooms accom- EDITOR’S Address: Hotel Beaufort, 1, Espla- modating from 10 to 330 persons A very pleasant nade du Mont-Blanc, 2000 Neuchâ- CHOICE Credit Cards: All country inn facing the lake tel, Switzerland front, below fields of ripening Disabled: 4 rooms especially Phone: 4138/24 00 24 grapes in the little town of Cortail- equipped Fax: 4138/24 78 94 lod, 8 km (5 miles) west of the Closed: Never Location: Opposite Place Pury, center of Neuchâtel. Most rooms Parking: 18-20 spaces available facing Lake Neuchâtel look out toward the peaceful own garage for 10 Sfr. ($7.50) per Rooms: 70 doubles countryside with a view of the night plus outside curb spaces Proprietor: Duncan Shakeshaft terraced vineyards. Accommoda- Prices: Weekend special top floor Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 15/20 tions include a pair of two-bed- 160 Sfr. ($119), singles 160-310 Sfr. Touring Hotel room family apartments. All ($119-$230), doubles 280-380 Sfr. guestrooms have a homey, infor- A smallish hotel with an ($207-$281), suites 600 -700 Sfr. mal atmosphere. ($480-$560) outstanding location and view of Meals: All available the lake, port and marina. The I enjoyed excellent French Facilities: Outdoor terrace, exten- ground floor restaurant and lobby cuisine for Sunday dinner in the sive public rooms and convention are bright and attractive although restaurant adjoining the lobby. I rooms the small lobby is a bit pinched chose the plate of the day: medium Credit Cards: All with the elevator door opening too rare slices of duck in brown sauce Disabled: Good access close to the check-in counter. Continued on page 6…

Gemütlichkeit 4 July, 1994 DM ($194). For program and dates, • Vevey on Lake Geneva hosts EUROPE contact: Verkehrsamt, D-67098 Bad an International Festival of Street Dürkheim, phone 06322-935156 fax Artists August 26-27 and, on TRAVEL 935159. September 10, a lakeside wine • The two finest hotels in festival. BRIEFING Germany, according to DM, a • Montreux offers “Brunch at (For more information about most German magazine, are the Hotel 2,000 Meters,” a package that of the programs and events listed below Vier Jahreszeiten in Hamburg and includes transport via cogwheel contact the national tourist office of the the Hotel Nassauer Hof in Wies- train to Rochers-de-Naye for buffet appropriate country.) baden. Both can be booked through brunch at the panoramic restaurant. Austrian Tourist Office the Leading Hotels of the World The splendid view is of Lake Los Angeles 310-477-3332 reservation service, 800-223-6800. Geneva, the Valais, the French Alps, New York 212-944-6880 • The mountain resorts of Fribourg and, in the distance, the German Tourist Office Davos, Arosa and Lenzerheide- mountains of the Jura. Afterwards, Los Angeles 310-575-9799 Valbella now offer a luggage-free return to the midway station, Caux, New York 212-661-7200 hiking package. While guests walk via steam train. Departures on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays Swiss Tourist Office from one alpine resort to another, through September 11 from Mon- Chicago 312-630-5840 luggage is transferred to the next treux station at 8 a.m.; open ticket Los Angeles 310-335-5980 hotel. Packages for four to seven return on the hour. New York 212-757-5944 days are available through October 16 from $235 to $435 depending on • Idyll Hotel Schweiz is a new • An inexpensive week in the hotel category and length of trip. association of 24 inexpensive, Black Forest town of Freiamt starts • Through October 2, Zürich family-operated Swiss hotels in at 177 DM ($115) and includes bed, celebrates “Magic America” on rural locations. A brochure with breakfast, group hike, tour, use of Sechselauten Square in the heart of information about the hotels is indoor pool, sauna and extras. Info: the city. Attractions include dance available from the association’s U.S. Verkehrsburo, Badstrasse 1, D-79348 shows with fire and water games, agent, Boldt International, 3123 Freiamt, phone 7645/644, fax 628. jazz nights at the “Cotton Club,” Deep Canyon Drive, Beverly Hills • Tauberbischofsheim, near multimedia shows and a NASA CA 90210. Boldt is the U.S. booking Würzburg, has a three-day week- exhibit. agent not only for the Idyll but the end bicycle program with two German Ring Hotels, as well. The • Conny Land, an amusement nights accommodations for 155 DM company’s owner, Hans Boldt, center in Lipperswil (Canton of ($100). The program includes a guarantees the lowest possible rates Thurgau, Eastern Switzerland) has Tauber Valley bicycle tour, a wine at these properties by reserving added a new attraction. An electric tasting in a castle cellar, a Franco- through his toll-free number 800- jeep takes visitors on a prehistoric nian supper and one other meal. 558-6850. Ring Hotels booked via journey past 14 dinosaurs and all Info: Kultur- und Fremden- Boldt currently offer a $59 per sorts of other long-gone creatures. verkehrsamt, Postfach 1480, D- person rate double occupancy and The largest dino is 45 feet long and 97934 Tauberbischofsheim, phone $79 single, though in major cities weighs 7.5 tons. The atmosphere is 9341/80313, fax 80389. such as Munich and Berlin rates are enhanced by sound and lighting slightly higher. • Trier, in the heart of the effects. Open daily from 9 a.m to 6 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer wine region, p.m. • Graz, one of Europe's great offers a program, called “Wine and undiscovered cities, offers its • The newly renovated Basel Sekt-making in Germany’s Oldest Concerts at Eggenberg Palace every Hilton Hotel now pays special City,” (sekt is Germany’s sparkling Monday evening through mid- attention to the needs of disabled wine) which costs 148 to 325 DM September. The music is presented and elderly guests. In addition to ($96-$211) per person, depending by candlelight in the resplendent rooms being especially equipped for on accommodations. It includes Baroque palace. disabled, blind, partially sighted, two nights’ lodging plus a city tour, deaf and hearing impaired guests, • The Anton Bruckner Festival a group lunch and a wine and sekt the hotel also features rooms for in Linz goes from September 11 tasting. Arrival can be any day allergy sufferers and for very tall through October 2 and this year except Saturday. Info: Tourist persons. The hotel has introduced a features The Vienna Philharmonic Information, Postfach 3830, D-54228 training program to enable its staff under Ricardo Muti and Milan’s Trier, phone 651-978080. to better serve disabled and elderly Orchestra della Scala conducted by • Bad Dürkheim in the Palati- guests. Basel Hilton, Aeschengraben Carlo Maria Guilini. nate offers culinary/wine week- 31, CH-4002, Basel, phone 61/271 66 • Replacement of the hydraulics ends (Friday - Sunday) from 299 22, fax 61/271 52 20. Continued on page 6....

Gemütlichkeit 5 July, 1994 magnificent Gallery of Paintings priced upbeat place close to the EUROPE BRIEFS with its masterworks by such artists town center, usually filled with Continued from page 4 as Cranach, Dürer, Holbein, young people. Very friendly system of the stage and substage has Brüghel, Rembrandt, Rubens, English-speaking waiters, includ- ing, when I was there, a young set back the opening of the Vienna Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian and bilingual French-Canadian. Special: State Opera from September 1 to Velázquez. tomato and mozzarella salad, duck mid-December. In the meantime, in cider sauce, rösti potatoes, the company will tour Japan for NEUCHÂTEL Continued from page 4 vegetables. Entree only 22 Sfr. several weeks and stage a series of ($16), complete meal 32 Sfr. ($24). five performances of Mozart’s Cosi with little carrots, turnips, onions Steak Parisienne with frites and fan tutte at Theater an der Wien. salad, 22 Sfr. ($16), melon and ham The Staatsoper will reopen Decem- and scalloped potatoes 22 Sfr. ($16). Also available: fresh salmon with ($11). Also a large selection of a la ber 14 with Elektra by Richard rice pilaf. A complete meal includ- carte items and beverages. Strauss and then continue as usual ing the main dish plus paté, cream through June 30, 1995. of chicken soup and a parfait of ice LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS • Bicycle routes have proliferat- cream and prunes was 36 Sfr. ($27). Neuchâtel and La Chaux-de- ed in Austria over the past few The hotel bottles and serves its own Fonds, each with about 40,000 years and many hotels and inns are white wine from local vineyards, inhabitants, are the canton’s second now geared to the needs of cyclists. which I found to be delicious, with and third largest cities, smaller in A list of such hotels, plus maps a clean dry taste. population in French-speaking which show bike paths that separate Address: Hotel du Vaisseau, Petit- Switzerland only to Geneva. bike riders from motorized traffic, Cortaillod Plage, CH-2016 Cortail- are available through the Austrian Although only 40 minutes rail lod distance apart, they are very Tourist Offices in the U. S. Bike Phone: 038/42 1942 rental in Austria is available different in character: Neuchâtel, in Fax: 038/42 1092 a picturesque location along the through the Fahrrad am Bahnhof Location: Along Lake Neuchâtel, 8 system operated by the federal north side of Neuchâtel Lake, is km southwest of Neuchâtel medieval; La Chaux-de-Fonds, in a railway. The system allows a renter Rooms: 22 doubles valley of the Jura, without the scenic to pick up a bike at one railway Proprietor: Fabien Chetelat site, is a business and industrial city station and drop it days later at Prices: Singles 100-110 Sfr. ($74- best known for its production of another in a different city. The $81), doubles 180-200 Sfr. ($133- watches and its excellent concert regular daily rate for a standard $148), two-bedroom apartment 2000 hall (hotels were filled with musi- bike is 90 AS ($8.50) and 200 AS Sfr./week ($1481) cians attending a convention when I ($19) for a mountain bike. The five- Meals: All available arrived). day rate is 360 AS ($34) for a Facilities: Meeting rooms Though it doesn't possess the standard bike and 800 AS ($76) for a Credit Cards: All mountain bike. By showing a valid sheer beauty of Neuchâtel, La Disabled: Good access Chaux-de-Fonds is definitely worth rail ticket or rail pass these prices Closed: Never are reduced by about 35% to 45%. a visit for its cultural attractions. Parking: Outdoor spaces beside They include the world’s largest • The Austrian National Tourist building at no charge and most important museum of Office has begun an educational Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 G clocks and watches, an important program for U. S. travel agents museum of art, and the early known as ACTS (Austrian Certi- Restaurant Suggestions buildings of the architect Le Cor- fied Travel Specialists). Some 200 Hotel Restaurant du Marche busier, born in La Chaux-de-Fonds agents have completed the one Place des Halles 4 and famous for his influence on the week training program in Austria Three restaurants; the design of United Nations headquar- ters in New York. and earned certification. Travelers most formal and most EDITOR’S looking for an agent with this expensive is on the top CHOICE The city’s most interesting area speciality can request a list of ACTS floor, the least formal and cheap- is near the northeast end of the from the Austrian Tourist Office. est is outside. Lunch outside at main street — boulevard Leopold- • Vienna’s Museum of Fine Marche: steak with green butter and Robert — by a small plaza and Arts (Kunsthistorishes Museum) garlic sauce, pommes frites, vegeta- lovely fountain, across from the offers a buffet dinner every Thurs- ble, green salad, small carafe of Fleur de Lys Hotel. Nearby are the day evening right in the museum. good local Merlot 34 Sfr. ($25). museums and music hall, two blocks away is an attractive shop- For 90 AS ($9) entry, and 270 AS Brasserie - Cafe du Theatre ($26) for the three-course buffet, Place Numa Droz ping center in an elaborate four- visitors can leisurely enjoy the story glass and concrete building An informal and reasonably with a selection of shops and

Gemütlichkeit 6 July, 1994 restaurants. But to me these were are tools and machines used from animation, colored and luminous, secondary attractions; I wanted to the 18th to the 20th century for unlike anything I had seen before. see a building by Corbusier. handcrafting and later industrial An adjoining building houses production. Above is a gallery A former architect, I studied the Museum of Beaux-Arts. In containing precision clocks used by Corbusier as a student at Ohio State addition to a painting by Corbusier, observatories, and a panorama of and have great admiration for his there are important paintings by the manufacture of watchcases and work. In an architectural period Van Gogh, Renoir, Matisse, Chagall, movements (weight-driven, spring- which glorified the past, he and Modigliani, and an interesting driven, balance, tuning fork and dreamed of cities which used the collection of minimalist abstract art mobility of the automobile to lift and contemporary sculpture. inhabitants aboveground, reserving LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS most of the land for gardens. He Population: 40,000 La Chaux-de-Fonds Hotels was also a painter and sculptor, and his skills in shaping concrete are Altitude: 3888 Feet Club evident in his design of the chapel Approximate Travel Times A beautifully designed EDITOR’S at Ronchamps, France. • By car from Neuchâtel: approx. 1 and decorated small CHOICE I had visited his “Cite hour contemporary hotel, close tothe d’Habitation,” a huge high-rise • By rail from Neuchâtel: 40 center of the city. Built in 1970, it block in Marseille, complete with minutes (service every half-hour) offers 38 identical double rooms hotel, two-story apartments, • By rail from Bern: 1.5 hours decorated in attractive pastel colors. (direct service hourly, changes in shopping, kindergarten and Neuchâtel for other destinations) Would be rated four-stars except for running track (but not his greatest its lack of a restaurant. The bar and completed design, the Indian City Tourist Information breakfast room is colorfully decorat- of Chandrigar), and was curious Office du tourisme ed in a modern style with bright about what he had done early in his de La Chaux-de-Fonds colors and sculpture. life. I asked my hotel concierge: “If Rue Neuve 11 you could only visit one of Corbusi- 2301 La Chaux-de-Fonds 2 Address: Hotel Club, rue de Parc er’s buildings in La Chaux-de- Telephone: 039 28 13 13 71, CH-2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds Fax: 039 28 29 21 Fonds, which one would it be?” The Phone: 039/23 5300 answer came back: “Villa Schwob.” Museums Fax: 039/23 9501 Most of Corbusier buildings in • Musee International d’ Horolo- Location: Near center of town La Chaux-de-Fonds, done during gerie (International Clockwork Museum), Rooms: 38 doubles 33 rue des Musees, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Proprietor: Sonjia Richard the beginning of his career, are Open daily, except Mondays 10-12 a.m. neoclassical and interesting only as and 2-5 p.m. Admission 8 Sfr. ($6). Prices: Singles 125 Sfr. ($93), curiosities. Villa Schwob, known as doubles 190 Sfr. ($141) the “Turkish Villa” is an exception. • Musee des Beaux-Arts. 29, rue des Meals: Breakfast only It is an exquisite Art-Deco structure Musees. Open daily, except Mondays 10- 12 a.m. and 2-5 p.m. Admission 8 Sfr. ($6). Facilities: Bar, solarium of delicate design, with some Frank Architectural Interest Credit Cards: All Lloyd Wrightish touches but none Disabled: Good access of the bleaker characteristics of his • Le Corbusier House (Charles- Closed: Never later buildings. Edouard Jeanneret) . 38, rue de la Serre, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Parking: Outside curb spaces, no Another La Chaux-de-Fonds charge attraction, the International Muse- • Villa Schwob. (Turkish Villa). 167 rue du Doubs, La Chaux-de-Fonds. Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 15/20 um of Horology is intriguing and fascinating. It contains more than Other Fleur de Lys 3,000 time measuring instruments, • Animal Park and Vivarium, Bois- An older hotel attractively watches and clocks. One enters past du-Petit-Chateau, La Chaux-de-Fonds. located near the museum complex, a series of frescoes illustrating the • Festival. Every two years La shopping and the only fountain in history of time measurement, and Chaux-de-Fonds has its Fair and Watch town. Built in 1895 and remodeled several tower clocks, monumental in Festival five years ago. The best room is size and reminders of the first Number 343, a large suite with a quartz), and an illustrated history of mechanical clocks. view of the fountain. Number 344, a the wristwatch throughout the double, also overlooks the fountain. On the first level, in spherical century. In a garden behind the The restaurant and coffee house in showcases, dramatically lit by museum is a monumental carillon, the same building is independently halogen bulbs are instruments for some 30 feet high, built in 1980. A owned. time measurement from ancient combination timepiece and musical times until the 19th century, instrument, it is a fantastic sculpture Address: Hotel Fleur de Lys, Ch- arranged by era. On the next level of polished steel tubes with musical Continued on page 8…

Gemütlichkeit 7 July, 1994 Disabled: Good access through the Heidelberg- I have spent a week or LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS Closed: Never Continued from page 7 Karlsruhe area. A nice more in Rorschach, Parking: Six spaces in hotel situated in a small, staying at the delightful 2300 La Chaux-de-Fonds nearby public garage, no quiet town that offers Hotel Mozart (ph. 71/ Phone: 039/23 3731 charge many pluses. 410632, fax 71/41 99 38). Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE Rooms are cheerful, baths Location: At the east end Wrede H Smith, President of the main street 12/20 are modern and the Jolly Time Popcorn Rooms: 2 singles, 28 breakfast buffet, included, Sioux City, IA doubles, 4 suites Restaurant Suggestions is ample and delicious. Proprietor: Max Kocain Buffet de la Gare (Ed. Note: Mr. Smith should While there is no “formal” Prices: Single 110 Sfr. Place de la Gare know that Jolly Time white dining room, the cafe ($81), double 140-170 Sfr. Informal rustic popcorn is the"official" features light dishes, hot ($104-126), suite 260 Sfr. atmosphere, reasonable popcorn of Gemütlichkeit.) and cold, and incompara- ($193), not including prices, wines by the glass A Full Report ble pastry. And the rates breakfast 4 Sfr. ($3) and beers on are reasonable indeed, Sfr. Again your hotels Meals: Available in draught 2.50 Sfr. ($2). 100 ($74) for a single. The were right on target! separately-owned restau- Baby lambchops with hotel is actually in Hotel Adler (ph. 54/ rant, same building potatoes and vegetables Rorschach-Hafen and 426161, fax 54/414440) in Facilities: Sauna, solari- 14 Sfr. ($10). only steps from the Stein am Rhein (Switzer- um station where frequent, Fleur de Lys land) closed for day, but Credit Cards: All free train service is Coffee House & Restaurant. the Ilge was a good Disabled: Good access 13 avenue Leopold-Robert. available to Rorschach. alternative. Loved beds, Closed: Never As you well know, other Independently owned, bells, view and food at Parking: Garage in rear of places such as St. Gallen, in the same building as the Hotel Hecht (ph. 71/ building, 12 Sfr. ($9) per Heiden, Vaduz (via the hotel. Reasonably 874780, fax 71/871047), night. Buchs), Stein am Rhein, priced breakfasts, snacks Appenzell. Villa Blanka Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE Schaffhausen etc. are and lunches. (ph. 512/892257, fax 512/ 13/20 easily reached. There is 893014) in Innsbruck, also boat service to Moreau perfect for walking and Meersburg in Germany nature. Pension Wolf An older place with READERS' and to the Insel Mainau marble halls and stairs (ph. 662/8434530) in Do look into it and see and some very attractive Salzburg warm and cozy, what you think. suites. Moreau began life FORUM Regensburg’s (Germany) as a chocolate factory in Bischofshof am Dom Susi E Kanuch, Van Nuys, CA 1882. The last renovation Hotel Near Heidelberg Hotel (ph. 941/59086, fax was three years ago. The I have been a subscrib- 941/53508), nice, and Graz Review single rooms are very er to Gemütlichkeit for Nürnberg’s Weinhaus We found Schlossberg small. many years. I always Steichele (ph. 911/ Hotel (ph. 316/872 4902) Address: Hotel Moreau, enjoy reading it, and have 204378, fax 911/221914) Graz, Austria, to be a very 45 avenue Leopold- used some of your excellent for location, pleasant hotel, convenient Robert, Ch-2300 La suggestions on my travels room, restaurant and to the center of the city Chaux-de-Fonds to Switzerland and price. Tübingen we loved and the funicular up the Phone: 039/23 2222 Germany. but ended up in a little Schlossberg Hill. We paid Fax: 039/23 2245 pension as we gave up approximately $191 per Recently I spent four Location: In center of looking for anything else. night for two persons in a very enjoyable nights at town, 300 meters from Strasbourg’s Hotel Rohan double room, including the Schloss Michelfeld railroad station is superb...but you don’t breakfast buffet. Parking (ph. 7265/7041, fax 7265/ Rooms: 22 singles, 23 cover Alsace. Thanks for in the hotel garage is 279) in Angelbachtal- doubles, 3 suites another good trip. about $14.50 per night Michelfeld, Germany. Prices: Singles 60-75 Sfr. Janice & Bruce Struckman (and there is no other The two rooms that I saw ($44-$56), doubles 140-180 Western Spring, IL place to park). The hotel were fairly good size for Sfr. ($104-$133), suites is a little hard to find in German hotels. The Hotel on Constance ($150-$205) heavy city traffic. Front dining room is superb, You mentioned that in Meals: Two French rooms are noisy. Back but it is French cuisine, the future you would restaurants in building, a rooms are OK. not German. I suggest feature an article on Lake brasserie and a rotisserie Matthias Sheeleigh, you take a look some time Constance (Bodensee) Facilities: Meeting rooms Smuuit, NJ Credit Cards: All when you are driving region. For several years

Gemütlichkeit 8 July, 1994