TheVineyards of Lavaux

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THE VINEYARDS OF LAVAUX

Switzerland’s most stunning wine-producing region is the Lavaux, where vine- yards and villages perch on steep terraces that zigzag down to the shoreline of Lac Léman. The UNESCO World Heritage site comprises 10,000 terraces of Chasselas, Gamay, and Pinot Noir vines spread over 40 levels. The area is also full of cellars and wineries worth visiting. Here’s how to get the most out of a day trip to wine country from .

Hiking trails in the vineyard between Lausanne and

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A terrace overlooking Lac Léman A9 Lausanne Croix Montchoisi 9 3 Aran

Scenic Lavaux—a 19 mile Puidoux- Gare stretch from Lausanne to 1 Chillon overlooking Lac Cully Auberge du Vigneron 9 A9 Leman—overwhelmingly 2 produces Chasselas from the Dézaley Cherbres white variety native to this area. 4 1 AU CLOS DE LA 9 E RÉPUBLIQUE Route du Lac, Dézaley L PA 021/7999911V A A 13th-generation winemaker U w X whose stunning cellars hold www.testuz.ch

3 V wines from across Lavaux. The ARC EN VINS I G wines bear witness to its dif- Featuring a range of wines N ferent soil types. Try: Passerillé from Lavaux and other Swiss O B de Lavaux, a Chasselas dessert regions, this winery also L wine. makes blends combining less E Ruelle du Petit-Crêt, prevalent varieties. Try: an Epesses unusual white, Charmont de P 021/7991444 Lavaux, which is a cross of Grapes ready to harvest in Dézaley w www.patrick-fonjallaz.ch Chasselas and Chardonnay. E 5 ASSOCIATION VITICOLE 2 VINOTEQUE TESTUZ Le Verney D, Puidoux P DE The Testuz winery’s tasting 021/9463344 w Worth a visit for the lake-and- room offers wines from all of www.arc-en-vins.ch mountain views alone—and ’s wine regions: Pinot Noir, 4 LAVAUX VINORAMA while this group of winemak- Gamay, and Chasselas predom- Most Lavaux wineries have ers presents fewer than 20 inate. Try: a full-bodied Pinot meager opening hours or selections, they offer pleasant Noir and Gamay St Saphorin are open by appointment, so surprises. Try: Pinot Noir Le AOC blend. this center featuring a savvy Corsalin, powerfully structured selection of some 200 Lavaux yet silky. wines is a boon. Try: a red E 20 rue du Village, Corseaux with a hint of black cherry P 021/9213185 and spice made from an w www.avc-vins.ch ancient local variety, Plant Robert. E 2 route du Lac, Rivaz P 021/9463131 w www.lavaux-vinorama.ch

Vineyards abut the tracks in Dézaley

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The Train des Vignes A winepress in Cully 12 STOP FOR A BITE

AUBERGE DU VIGNERON IN FOCUS 12 Many Vaudois say the terrace here boasts the best view in Monts de all Lavaux. Stop here, in the Corsier 0 1 mi dining room or bistro, for

Lavaux wines paired with light THE VINEYARDS OF LAVAUX 0 1 km French cuisine or traditional Au Chalet A12 Mont-Pelerin 12 Swiss dishes, or just come by for a drink between mealtimes. St-Legier-La E 14 route de la Corniche, Chiesaz P Corseaux 5 Epesses 021/7991419 wwww.aubergeduvigneron.ch 6 AU CHALET Part of the hyper-luxurious spa Brent A9 hotel Le Mirador Kempinski , this Swiss cha- La Tour-De-Peilz let set amid vineyards offers 9 L Chamby breathtaking views, and excel- a c lent food—fondue, rösti, pan- 7 Clarens fried tomme cheese and more, L Vernex é including local wines. m Montreux E 5 chemin de l’Hôtel du a n Mirador, Mont-Pelerin 8 P 021/9222761 wwww.kempinski.com

FRANCE 6 OBRISTVINARIA producing Vevey-Montreux winery, renowned for its Chas- Obrist makes its own wines and Chardonne bottlings. Try: selas. Try: Aigle Les Murailles and distributes bottles for Montreux Entre-Bourgs Chas- Chasselas has intriguing min- several international wineries. selas has a floral bouquet eral and cream notes. Try: Château de Chardonne’s and a rich mouth feel. E 18 avenue du Chamossaire, Grand Cru Chardonne as an E 28 avenue Belmont, Aigle afternoon apéritif. Montreux P 021/4686888 E 26 avenue Reller, Vevey P 021/9631348 w www.badoux-vins.ch P 021/9259925 w www.lacave-vevey- w www.obrist.ch montreux.ch 7 LA CAVE 8 HENRI BADOUX VEVEY-MONTREUX Aigle, in the Chablais region, This is the tasting venue of is home to wine and label a winegrowers’ association museums and the Badoux

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LAVAUX TOURING TIPS

Local vintners welcome visitors year- round, except during harvest, which is GETTING THERE usually in October. If there is a particu- lar winemaker you want to visit, phone BY TRAIN: From Lausanne, there are tracks ahead for an appointment. You can also along the lake to Montreux, Vevey, and keep an eye peeled for hand-painted Aigle. Another track, the Train des Vignes signs announcing “caveau ouvert” or (vineyard train) rolls through the vineyards. “dégustation”; this indicates that a cellar Check wwww.rail.ch for schedules. owner or cooperative is pouring wine. BY CAR: From Lausanne-Ouchy, head (Designate a driver; laws are strict.) straight along the lake road to Vevey/ Montreux/Aigle. Turn off (and up) into wine Some wineries have sophisticated tast- villages, then back down. Signage abounds; ing rooms; others feature a tasting bar- you won’t get lost. rel within the working cellar. These are communal gathering spots so you may BY BIKE AND FOOT: You can walk or bike be tasting with the locals. along the wine trail. Download the map at wwww.montreuxriviera.com Most cellars charge for tasting, and if you occupy the winemaker’s time beyond a casual pour, it is appropriate to buy a but you can also break it into smaller bottle unless you fi nd it not to your liking. segments, allowing time for wine tast- ings and meals at local restaurants. Interconnected hiking trails (signposted in several languages, including En- Tourist offi ces can provide a copy of the glish) span the length of the shore from specialized map that identifi es the route Ouchy to Chillon, traversing vineyards and cellars open for tastings. If you’re and traffi c arteries from the lakefront doing a portion of the hiking trail, you to hillside villages. Walking the en- can easily catch a vineyard train back to tire 32-km (19-mile) parcours viticole your starting point, as there are hourly (wine route) takes about 8½ hours, stops in every village along the lakefront.

Conne wine cellar in

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WINE-TASTING PRIMER Ordering and tasting wine—whether at a winery, bar, or restaurant—is easy once 12 you master a few simple steps.

LOOK AND NOTE Hold your glass by the stem and look at the wine IN FOCUS in the glass. Note its color, depth, and clarity. For whites, is it greenish, yellow, or gold? For reds, is it purplish, ruby, or garnet? Is the wine’s

color pale or deep? Is the liquid clear or cloudy? THE VINEYARDS OF LAVAUX

SWIRL AND SNIFF Swirl the wine gently in the glass to intensify the scents, then sniff over the rim of the glass. What do you smell? Try to identify aromas like:

M Fruits—citrus, peaches, M Minerals—earth, steely berries, figs, melon notes, wet stones M Flowers—orange M Dairy—butter, cream, blossoms, honey, perfume cheese, yogurt M Spices—baking spices, M Oak—toast, vanilla, pungent, herbal notes coconut, tobacco M Vegetables—fresh or M Animal—leathery, cooked, herbal notes meaty notes

Are there any unpleasant notes, like mildew or wet dog, that might indicate that the wine is “off?”

SIP AND SAVOR Prime your palate with a sip, swishing the wine in your mouth. Then spit in a bucket or swallow. Take another sip and think about the wine's attributes. Sweetness is detected on the tip of the tongue, acidity on the sides of the tongue, and tannins (a mouth-drying sensation) on the gums. Consider the body—does the wine feel light in the mouth, or is there a rich sensation? Are the fl avors consistent with the aromas? If you like the wine, try to pinpoint what you like about it, and vice versa if you don’t like it. Take time to savor the wine as you’re sipping it— the tasting experience may seem a bit scientifi c, but the end goal is your enjoyment.

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