30 JAN/FEB 2013 modern-day travellersaheftysprinklingofhistory, cultureandnature. onIndia’seastcoasthasstoodthetestoftimetooffer Immortalised inthe Ramayana BY IsabelPutinja and Mahabharata , theportcityof

Lakshmi Prabhala features awest-facing entrance , theiconicSimhachalam Unlike otherHindutemples in Templein Visakhapatnam which signifiesvictory. 31 JAN/FEB 2013 32 JAN/FEB 2013 complete thisstunningtableau. of theEasternGhatsmountainrange which the BayofBengal,andsurrounding hills naval barges anchored inthebluewaters of undulating coastlineandnatural harbour,the A breathtaking bird’s eye-viewtakes inits of thiscitylocatedonIndia’s eastcoast. spectacular prelude tothenatural splendour Arriving Gajapatis andCholas. other SouthIndiandynasties,includingthe then ruled over theselands,followed by Buddhist period. in thisregionarerelicsofitssubsequent A was takenover byEmperor theMauryan ofOrissabeforeneighbouring state it BCwhichcentury includedmuch ofthe was partoftheKalingaEmpirein5th has aninterestingandvaried history. It of state T . in theMahabharata killed thedemonB was inanearby villagethatBheemahad R monkey god,which would defeat theevil monkeys withthehelpofHanuman, is whereLord R the is mentionedinthegreatIndianepicsof valour andwar, Visakhapatnam (or Vizag) Named after Visakha, theHindugodof he second-biggest city in the SouthI he second-biggest city shoka. avana andrescue hiswife Sita. in V Ramayana. T andMahabharata isakhapatnam byairisa , Visakhapatnam T he many ancientBuddhistsites ama formed anarmy of T he akasura, asdescribed Andhra kingsof Vengi T he Britisharrived in And it his city city his ndian ndian and away fromthebighotelsareseveral Moving northwards alongtheB rays offirstlight. initshealing to therisingsun,ormeditate going to sea, and the devout perform ball, fishermenpreparetheirnets before the heatofday setsin:children play when thebeach isatitsliveliest, before brisk walk andwatch thesunrise. mornings sothatlocalscancomefor a B that runs paralleltoR the eastcoastregion. destination andanidealbasetoexplore sandy beaches make itapopulartourist T the IndianNavy. Mumbai andoneoftheheadquarters after portcity the secondmostimportant as amajorport,which todayas stands the 17th anddeveloped century thetown he city’s natural andlong beauty each isclosedtotrafficintheearly amakrishna Mission T he B each R each R T oad his is pujas oad

Andhra Pradesh tourism; Getty images

Lakshmi Prabhala beaches, withthelocalspreferring those boastsmanyAlthough thecity beautiful next to the seafront. Vuda Park isalarge,quietandleafyoasis transformed intoanintriguingmuseum. 90-metre-long submarinethathasbeen small aquarium,asculpture park,anda temple dedicatedtothegoddessKali,a attractions: achildren’s playground, a are several viewpoints fromwhich thestunning views west. of theoceantowards theeastandhillsto the peak ofthehilltherearestunning 360-degreeviews Park, which canalsobeaccessedby .From the A cablecarmakes thesteepclimbupto is prohibitedatseveral beaches. particularly rough,waters aredeep,and swimming chairs orumbrellastobefound. at Bheemili,Rishikonda and A traintakesvisitors aroundthetopandthere Y arada, therearenodeck T he oceanhereis ( the Kailasagiri Park attractions such as ( and BheemliBeach page, bottom left), Mission Beach (facing as theRamakrishna beaches (left), such numerous sandy The cityhas bottom left). below), andcultural 33 JAN/FEB 2013 Considered as one of the 18 shrines of Lord Lakshminarasimha, the Simhachalam Temple lures devotees from India and overseas. of the city, sea and mountainscapes can be taken in. The playgrounds for children, vendors peddling souvenirs and snack bars offering cold drinks add an amusement park-like atmosphere. The western end is more peaceful, and this is where families come for picnics and couples sit to watch the sun makes its descent behind the mountains.

Perched atop Simhagiri Hill just 16 kilometres north of the city, is Left and below: Simhachalam Temple, dedicated to Intricate details the half-man, half-lion god Varaha of Simhachalam Lakshminarasimha. Built in the 11th Temple. Bottom: century, this majestic temple is Ruins of the 2,000- year-old architecturally unique. The gateway is in Buddhist monastery. typical South Indian Chola style while the main tower is similar to those found in the temples of Orissa. The 96 pillars of the impressive natya mandap (dance hall) is decorated with intricate sculptures of lions and elephants. This temple is a popular pilgrimage destination and queues seem A N/FE B 2013 endless, especially on weekends, but A N/FE B 2013 J J those who can afford the 100 rupee fee 34 can take the special ‘fast lane’. Childless 35 couples come here to wrap their arms around a large pillar called the kappam stambham, which is believed to grant wishes. In an act of complete surrender, many pilgrims get their heads shaved here as an offering to the god. Just outside the temple, ladies sell the fragrant, bright orange sampangi which grow on this hilltop.

On another hill overlooking the , 15 kilometres north of the city, are the remains of the Thotlakonda Buddhist complex. More than 2,000 years ago, a great Buddhist monastery was built here. Devotees would come here from faraway lands, arriving by ship and climbing a footpath up the steep hill. A good dose of imagination is required to picture the magnificence of this monastery, which included 72 rooms in the sleeping quarters, a large 64-pillared meeting hall and several domed meditation halls. This and other nearby sites such as and Pavuralakonda are lasting testaments to the ancient Buddhist civilisations in India.

A day trip to and the is a must-do. Located 90 kilometres Lakshmi Prabha l a away from the city, the Borra Caves are waterfalls, lush valleys, thick forests IN THE KNOW vast underground caves which and verdant hills. Tribal women wearing Bamboo Bay Jagadamba Centre are believed to be the deepest and largest colourful saris and their characteristic nose Best time to visit November to February Dine al fresco by candlelight Avoid the shopping malls and in India. Visitors can hike through a small rings balance large baskets of bananas at with the sound of ocean waves make a detour to this lively section of the caves to the sound of bats station platforms on the way. The Tribal Stay as a soundtrack at the city’s shopping bazaar. This is a great chattering above, and observe the ancient Museum features a permanent exhibition The Gateway Hotel most romantic restaurant. The place to pick up good deals on and . Some of these on the every day life of the tribes who This hotel is conveniently located menu features Andhra as well as fashion, footwear, jewellery are worshipped by locals as manifestations live in this region and samples of their just off the Beach Road on Chettinad and Tandoori cuisine. and more. of the god and have set up small instruments, farming tools, water pots, Ramakrishna Mission Beach. The separate rustic beach Clockwise from below: The comfy rooms have been shack serves roasts and grills. shrines. The Araku Valley, located just 22 and enacted scenes of daily life. The vast Borra Caves recently renovated, many theparkhotels.com complex is believed kilometres further away, is the home to of which have sea views. to be the deepest many indigenous tribal communities. At SilkAir flies three times weekly between thegatewayhotels.com Rajugari Dhaba and largest in India; 911 metres above sea level, it enjoys a cool Singapore and Visakhapatnam. Locals swear that the food at this gold jewellery plays climate and is a popular weekend getaway Four Points by Sheraton casual eatery near Gitam College an important part in Located in a busy shopping on Beach Road is among the best Indian culture; the for locals and the perfect destination for nature lovers and trekkers. The trip by district, this new business in town. The house favourite is the Araku Valley is home hotel offers 124 contemporary- mutton and prawn biryani. train from Visakhapatnam is one of the to many indigenous style rooms and suites. tribal communities. most scenic in India, passing cascading starwoodhotels.com Shop Four Points by Sheraton Lepakshi Eat This state-run emporium in Any Time Jagadamba has a large selection Serving authentic and spicy of local handicrafts such as Andhra-style cuisine, this brassware, stone carvings, leather restaurant at Daspalla Executive puppets from Nimmalakunta, Court is a firm favourite with wooden painted toys from locals. Try the traditional South Kondapalli and Etikoppaka, Banjara Indian thali meal or one of their embroidery, Kalamkari textile most popular dishes like the tiger art and exquisite saris prawn masala or fish tikka masala. from Narayanpet and Mangalgiri. The Park Visakhapatnam daspallahotels.com lepakshihandicrafts.gov.in

A N/FE B 2013 J

36 ADVERTISEMENT

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K sh tourism tourism An dhra Prad e sh Lakshmi Prabha l a;