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V Tomto Č Ísle Horolezecký Časopis Severočeského Regionu Č.092

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V Tomto Č Ísle Horolezecký Časopis Severočeského Regionu Č.092 H o r o l e z e c k y c a s o p i s s e v e r o c e s k e h o r e g i o n u c . 0 9 2 WWW.VRCHOLKY.CZ VYDA VA HOROLEZECKY KLUB CAO DECIN WWW.LEZEC.CZ Rocnık 9, cıslo 092 -- Since 1999 -- Brezen 2007 HOROLEZECTVÍ NÁS MÁ V MOCI.. CHRIS BONINGTON áMa m podezrenıı, z e llezenıı vytva rıı v nasem te lle speciia llnıı druh koktejjllu adrenalliinu a vzrusenıı. A domnııva m se, z e jje doka za no, z e rada chemiicky ch a hormona llnııch zme n ciinıı cllove ka za viislly m. A to jje duvod, proc horollezectvıı ma lliidii, kterıı se mu ve nujjıı, tak pevne v mocii“ 7 V tomto cısle v Gu nter Schneider - rozhovor v Cesta do podsvetı v Alpinia da ý jak to bylo? v Sedlecky s pica k v OVK Labskž pıskovce v Fukov a Rudolf Kauschka v Nejtezsı cesta na Borni? v Novž cesty v Strıpky v Kalendar sportovnıch akcı v a mnohe dalsı– Gunter Schneider ý Prvovystup Krajkovou hranou na Z eleznou vžz 17. cervna 1972. Foto archiv G.S. CAO News 1 Plnıme, co jsme slıbili - v tomto cısle prinası me dalsı z rady Co novžho v CAO Decın? rozhovoru s horolezecky mi osobnostmi Labskeho –dolı ě Informace z klubove ho dž nı.. tentokra t s Gunterem Schneiderem.. Jirı Houba Chara Predseda CAO Decın Gu nter Schneider B r eznova schuzka vysla na Pıskar tž lem i dusı.. 7.3. Sesli jsme se jako vzdy na Za CAO News se ptal Jirı Houba Chara Kocande. CAO News: Na ž vod pa r Jiz podruhč jsme se tu potkali klasicky ch dotazu. Muzes s KOB Decın (Klub orientacnıho na m rıci, kdy a kde jsi se behu), kterı majı schuze takč vzdy narodil? prvnı stredu v mesıci. Protoze mısta je v salonku dost a mnozı G.S.: Narodil jsem se 8. clenovč obou klubu se dobre brezna 1944 v Decıne . znajı, je to spıs e klad - dost lezcu CAO News: Vzpomenes si, OB aktivne beha a nekterı bezci kdy jsi lezl poprve? zase lezou, takze alespon bude prenos informacı rychlejsı.. G.S.: Po ruzny ch skalach Program breznovč schuze: v Decıne jsem lezl uz jako maly kluk. Ale na prvnı - Alpinia da 2007. Nikdo z klubu nenasel letos tolik opravdovou vez jsem vylezl motivace, aby se zČcastnil celč snury ctyr zavodu. Na v roce 1959 s mıstnımi Snezku neodjel nikdo, ale na Rocking (tentokrat na Borni) kluky, kdyz jsem se pristehoval do Zlebu. To mi bylo 15 let. se par jedincu chysta. Takč do alpskč ho lezenı nejakč body ne kdo jiste nasbıra a s prechodem Krkonos se uvidı. CAO News: Pamatujes si, co to bylo za vňz? C ervenackovy sance na celkovč vıtezstvı tak prudce G.S.: Byl to C irtin strazce, dnes se ta vez jmenuje Strazce stouply. Prostrednıho Zlebu. Vylezl jsem Starou cestu a protoze jsem - Nova pravidla. Probehla diskuse nad navrhy novy ch nemel lano, stejnou cestou jsem zase slezl dolu. pravidel lezenı na pıskovcovy ch i nepıskovcovy ch skalach. CAO News: Jake to byly pocity? Je na nich videt obrovsky kus prace, presto, podle nazoru G.S.: Lezenı se mi zalıbilo, a tak jsem zacal chodit do skal nektery ch lezcu, jsou apriori odsouzeny k jejich s mıstnımi kluky a casto takč sam. Az v roce 1962 jsem se nedodrzovanı. A to kvuli jednomu dvema bodum, kterč seznamil s Jindrichem Straussem a ten me privedl do jsou napr. pro lezce v Labskč m Čdolı neprijatelnč . decınskč ho horolezeckč ho oddılu. - Prukazky CHS. Byly rozdany poslednı clenskč prukazy C HS. - Ruzne. Probıraly se nejblizsı akce, byly prodavany DVD se skvely m filmem Jak to tenkrat bylo o prvovy stupu na Jeptisku, planovaly se prazdninovč akce, novč cesty atd. - Geocaching. Mnoho diskusı se motalo kolem modnıho Geocachingu. Padaly vyrazy jako multi/micro/event/cache, travelbugs a geocoins, waypoint, mudlovč apod. Pro nezasvecenč tčmer nadavky. Ukazalo se, ze nejlepsım founderem je Jarda Uher (45) a David Sedivy (39 zalogovany ch kesı k datu 7.3.2007).. Gu nter v akci - vlevo vyva dı na Flachskopfer cestu Talweg VIIa, vpravo v Ra jci na Sokolu. CAO News: Muzes na m popsat, jake jsi mňl tehdy vybavenı a co se dalo sehnat v obchodech? G.S.: Napred jsem mel jen kroucenč konopnč lano a nekolik hasicsky ch karabin. U nas se v obchodech nedalo sehnat prakticky nic. Postupne jsem se jako kazdy vybavoval vecmi vetsinou z tehdejsıho NDR, kterč jsem kupoval pres svoje starsı kamarady. Kocanda 7. brezna 2007. Zacına me se scha zet.. CAO News: Jak jste se tenkra t navazovali, jistili, slanovali? Hora m zdar! G.S.: Navazovali jsme se rovnou na lano. Jistili jsme pres telo a slanovali D¨lferovy m sedem. CAO News 2 CAO News: Kdo se v te dobň staral o vrcholy a jak byly CAO News: Kam jsi jezdil nebo chodil lezt nejradňji? vybaveny? G.S.: Nejprve to bylo Labskč Čdolı a Hrensko, pozdeji hlavne G.S.: O vrcholky se uz tenkrat starala vrcholova komise ve saskč pıskovcovč oblasti. kterč jsem takč pracoval. Knızky byly na vsech vrcholech CAO News: Co Vysoke Tatry? Bavilo tň vıce lezenı v poradku a starč nemeckč kruhy jsme postupne vymenovali za v Tatra ch nebo na pıskovci? novč . V tčto dobe se nejvıc po organizacnı strance staral o vrcholovou komisi Jarda Uher. G.S.: No, do Tater jsem jezdil casto a hlavne v zime. Co se vsak tyce skalnıho lezenı, jsem pıskar telem i dusı. CAO News: S kym jsi lezl nejcastňji? Jak se k tobň starsı lezci chovali a ovlivnili tň nňjak? G.S.: Nejcasteji jsem lezl s Karlem Krombholzem a Ladislavem Ryskou. Oba me ovlivnili svy m cestny m prıstupem k pravidlum lezenı a uprımny m kamaradstvım. Ve Vysoky ch Tatra ch, na vrcholu C eskžho s tıtu 4. brezna 1991. Dnes je s tıt prejmenovany na Tazky , stejne tak C eska dolina a pleso.. CAO News: Dostal jsi se take nňkam do zahranicı? G.S.: Parkrat jsem byl v Alpach a Dolomitech a takč v reckč Meteore. Vlevo SZ hrana na Homoli ve Hrensku, vpravo na dherna Cesta strachu VIIa na R˚zovou vez v Laba ku. CAO News: S ktery m spolulezcem mas nejvňtsı lezecke zazitky? G.S.: Jsou to prave Karel Krombholz a LaÚa Ryska. CAO News: Byl jsi tedy v dňcınskem horolezeckem oddıle. Vzpomenes si, kdo tam byl predseda nebo na nňjaka zna ma jmena? G.S.: Predsedou H.O. Decın byl v tč dobe Zdenek Janku, pred nım Stanislav Balıc ek a po nem Josef Hozak. Bylo nas tenkrat neco pres tricet a vsichni jsme se znali. R ecka Meteora, Daupianifels, duben 1992. I zde ma Gu nter Schneider prvovy stupy spolecne s jejım “objevitelemŽ Dietrichem Hassem. CAO News: Jakou cestu v hora ch povazujes za svou nejhodnotnňjsı a v jake vysce jsi byl nejvyse? G.S.: Nejvyse jsem byl na Mont Blancu a na Matterhornu. Z tech alpsky ch vystupu bych vzpomenul vystup na Pic Badile znamou Cassinovou cestou za VI, v Dolomitech to byla treba Cima Piccola cestou Comici za VI a samozrejme hodne hezky ch cest ve Vysoky ch Tatrach. CAO News: A ktere vylezene cesty na pısku si povazujes 1. ma j roku 1972. Vs ichni horolezci mısto v pr˚vodu ve skala ch. Gu nter nejvıc? se zdravı na vrcholu Krkavce v Labskžm Čdolı s Petrem S te panem.. G.S.: To nedokazu posoudit. Za svuj zivot jsem vylezl tolik CAO News: Jaka byla pravidla lezenı a jak se dodrzovala? krasny ch cest, ze vybrat jedinou je pro me proste nemoznč . G.S.: V celč m Labskč m Čdolı se dodrzovala ta nejprısnejsı Spıs jsem se vzdy pri vyvade nı snazil vyhovet svy m pravidla prevzata vetsinou od sasky ch horolezcu. kamaradum. CAO News 3 CAO News: Jsi autorem nebo spoluautorem rady CAO News: V kolika letech jsi se ozenil a mňlo to nňjaky prvovy stupu v Laba ku, Hrensku, Jetrichovicıch, Kyjovň i vliv na tve lezenı? jinde. Jaky povazujes za svuj nejlepsı nebo ktery mas G.S.: Poprvč v roce 1969 a podruhč v roce 1980. Na lezenı to nejradňji? moc vliv nemelo, to jsem si vzdy prosadil. G.S.: Prvovy stupu zas az tak moc nemam. Ale ani tady bych si CAO News: Jak moc ti zmňnila zivot revoluce? Neta hlo tň nedokazal vybrat jeden jediny . Nez na nejakč ceste mi spıs to tam, kam se predtım c lovňk nedostal? v zdy zalezelo na tom, aby byla ve skalach dobra parta a zabava. G.S.: Revoluce mi zivot zajistč zmenila. Ne tım, ze by me to tahlo jinam, ale protoze se zacaly rozpadat velkč party, na kterč CAO News: Trenoval jsi nňjak lezenı? jsem byl zvykly . G.S.: Specialne jsem nijak netrč noval. Jen jsem se snazil co CAO News: Chodıs jestň lezt? nejvıce lčzt a kdyz to neslo, tak jsem posiloval nebo jezdil na kole a v zime na bezkach. G.S.: Bohuzel velmi zrıdka. Vysokž Tatry, Rysy. Zima 1991. V druznž debate s kamara dy ve skala ch. Zleva celem stojıcı Ladislav CAO News: Na kole jsi asi jezdil hodnň - slysel jsem Ryska a Karel Krombholz. Na zemi sedı Gu nter. vypra vňt, ze jsi byl vy borny cyklista. CAO News: Jaky je tvuj nazor na dnesnı tňzke cesty a G.S.: To ano, kolo mam i dnes rad a v zime takč bezky. Nč uz lezenı s magneziem? vsak zavodit, ale spıs e me bavı delsı tČry. G.S.: Pokud lezci delajı tezkč cesty podle pravidel, tak je CAO News: Tak jestň zpa tky k lezenı.
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