SEWING INSTRUCTIONS AMBER TOP FI06005 TABLE OF CONTENT

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 pieces ...... 6 technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10

SEWING ...... 10

1. Shoulder seams ...... 10 2. Side seams ...... 12 3. Neckband ...... 14 4. Sleeves ...... 16 5. a sleeve ...... 17 6. Attach sleeves ...... 20 7. ...... 21

GLOSSARY ...... 25

Amber Top FI06005 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY

SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Sleeve Board Coverstitch machine

Dressmaking for ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

9

8

7 3 6

5

4 2

3

2 1 1

Thread snips chalk or Ruler soap

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Seam gauge Machine needle

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Serger threads • Sewing needle / Stretch • Shoulder stabilizing tape - silicone tape • Sewing

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 42” (107 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)

BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X

A BUST 59” (150 cm) 67” (169 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %

Knit (Viscose) Medium 3 - 5 % Jersey /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Stretch Tull Medium Heavy Spandex Knit /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Stretch Velevt Jersey Heavy Lycra /10oz - 12oz (339g - 407g)/ Nylon Tricot

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

B A

AA

C D

TOP FABRIC PIECES

Front A Back B C Right Sleeve D Neckband AA

the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional line.

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining interfacing

Laying out and cutting fabric

bias

gr ain

selvage

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the . All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark points and matchpoints.

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 8 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION

SERGE illustration

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE

seam structure

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW

Sew the side seams.

instruction

Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 9 How to read instruction SEWING

The top parts pin parallel to the line of stitching and far enough from the edge so the pin will be to the pin, take out the pin. For knit fabrics use a 4-thread serger stitch.

1. SHOULDER SEAMS

SET 1.1

Set the stitch length between 1/8” (3 mm) and 1/4” (6 mm). (Lightweight fabrics need the length set closer to 1/8” (3 mm); medium- to heavyweight should be closer to 1/4” (6 mm)). Make sure you have long tails on the thread in the machine.

SEW 1.2

On the shoulder seam of the front (the one that will be gathered), sew one straight line 1/8” (3 mm) from the edge of the fabric. Don't at the beginning or end and make sure to stop sewing right at the edge of the fabric so you don't get any knots. Leave long lengths (3“- 4” (8 - 10 cm) at least) of thread at both ends of the fabric.

SEW 1.3

Sew another line 1/16” (2 mm) in from the line you just at both ends of the fabric.

Amber Top SEWING FI06005 Page 10 1. Shoulder seams

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team