SEWING INSTRUCTIONS AMBER TOP FI06005 TABLE OF CONTENT
METHODOLOGY ...... 3
Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instruction ...... 10
SEWING ...... 10
1. Shoulder seams ...... 10 2. Side seams ...... 12 3. Neckband ...... 14 4. Sleeves ...... 16 5. Hem a sleeve ...... 17 6. Attach sleeves ...... 20 7. Hemline ...... 21
GLOSSARY ...... 25
Amber Top FI06005 Page 2 Table of content METHODOLOGY
SYMBOLOGY
PATTERN MARKINGS
SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE
CENTER LINE FOLD LINE
PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE
GATHER STRETCH
BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH
SEAM STRUCTURE
INTERFACING FABRIC
ZIPPER SERGE
CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH
SEWING LINE FOLD LINE
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT
Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger
Universal foot Overedge foot Sleeve Board Coverstitch machine
Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch
9
8
7 3 6
5
4 2
3
2 1 1
Thread snips Tailors chalk or Bobbins Ruler soap
3” 4 8
3” 1” 1” 1
1 4 2
1 8
1” 1”
4 1”
8 5”
Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED
• Fabric • Serger threads • Sewing needle / Stretch • Shoulder stabilizing tape - silicone tape • Sewing thread
The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric
BODY MEASUREMENTS FABRIC 55” (140 cm)
BODY HEIGHT 65” (164 cm) N I BUST 33” (84 cm) 42” (107 cm) M HIP 36” (91 cm)
BODY HEIGHT 73” (185 cm) X
A BUST 59” (150 cm) 67” (169 cm) M HIP 60” (152 cm)
Recommended fabrics:
FABRIC TYPE WEIGHT / oz (g) ELASTANE %
Knit (Viscose) Medium 3 - 5 % Jersey /6oz - 8oz (204g - 272g)/ Stretch Tull Medium Heavy Spandex Knit /8oz - 10oz (272g - 339g)/ Stretch Velevt Jersey Heavy Lycra /10oz - 12oz (339g - 407g)/ Nylon Tricot
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES
B A
AA
C D
TOP FABRIC PIECES
Front A Back B C Right Sleeve D Neckband AA
the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY
Fabric key
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing
Laying out and cutting fabric
selvage bias
gr ain
selvage
Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains;
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”
1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.
Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 8 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTION
SERGE illustration
action
Finishing the side seams.
PLACE
seam structure
Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW
Sew the side seams.
instruction
Amber Top METHODOLOGY FI06005 Page 9 How to read instruction SEWING
The top parts pin parallel to the line of stitching and far enough from the edge so the pin will be to the pin, take out the pin. For knit fabrics use a 4-thread serger stitch.
1. SHOULDER SEAMS
SET 1.1
Set the stitch length between 1/8” (3 mm) and 1/4” (6 mm). (Lightweight fabrics need the length set closer to 1/8” (3 mm); medium- to heavyweight should be closer to 1/4” (6 mm)). Make sure you have long tails on the thread in the machine.
SEW 1.2
On the shoulder seam of the front (the one that will be gathered), sew one straight line 1/8” (3 mm) from the edge of the fabric. Don't backstitch at the beginning or end and make sure to stop sewing right at the edge of the fabric so you don't get any knots. Leave long lengths (3“- 4” (8 - 10 cm) at least) of thread at both ends of the fabric.
SEW 1.3
Sew another line 1/16” (2 mm) in from the line you just at both ends of the fabric.
Amber Top SEWING FI06005 Page 10 1. Shoulder seams
BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,
YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING
AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION
Thank you, Fayma Team