Slovenian Dry Whites snapshot: rebula (ribolla)

Snapshot “box and whiskers” graphs used by Sommelier Journal are designed to portray the Tasting Panel consensus while also representing the diver- sity of opinion. In general, the shorter the box, the more agreement among the group. A wider box, longer whiskers (the thin lines extending outward), and numerous outliers indicate more disagreement. Visit www.sommelierjournal.com/about-us/snapshot for a detailed discussion of how the boxplot graph works. Prices are current estimated retail.

David Furer, CWE This tasting of Slovenian dry whites was but growing. “Natural” winemaking is fashion- held at the Austin, Texas, home of Greg Randle, able in ; in fact, many of the wines we a wine consultant, educator, and author of the tasted were from grown organically and Good Taste Report blog, and his wife Aimee, were vinified without commercial yeasts or oth- host of Austin’s premier annual wine bash, er potentially heavy means of intervention. South by South Wine. Joining Greg Randle Slovenia’s winemaking regions are divided on the panel were fellow Austiners Nat Davis, into two major areas: the west (Primorska)— a sales consultant for Pioneer Wine; Anthony influenced by Friuli and Collio—and the east Garcia, sommelier at Jeffrey’s Restaurant & (Podravje and Posavje)—influenced by Styria Bar; Matt Miller, owner of East End Wines; June and —with further subdivisions within Rodil, beverage director of Congress Austin both. In our tasting, 30 samples came from the and a newly minted Advanced-level certificate west and eight from the east. The wines, obtained holder from the Court of Master Sommeliers; from suppliers, were recent releases from 2004 and Sandra Spalding, sales and events man- to 2009. Some common Slovenian varieties, in- ager of Twin Liquors. Antonio Gianola, owner- cluding Šipon (Hungary’s ), Muscat, Vi- sommelier of the new Sprezzatura restaurant tovska, and Laški Riesling, were not represented. and bar in Houston, drove up for the tasting. For organizational purposes, I grouped the Every panelist had at least a passing familiarity wines into four variety-specific and two broader with Slovenian wines and an understanding of flights. They were tasted blind and rated on a Austrian or northeast Italian whites—the broad 20-point scale, as shown in the accompanying styles most related to those in Slovenia. “boxplots.” As moderator, I asked the panelists Slovenia’s history of winemaking dates back to place more emphasis on their discussion of to ancient Roman times, but most of its wines the samples following the tasting than on the are consumed domestically, including week- scoring. end and holiday wine-hunting border crossings Food-friendliness and an abundance of aro- from its wealthier Austrian and Italian neigh- matics and minerality were common themes bors. Exports to the United States are limited, expressed by our tasters. Restricted availability

20 April 30, 2011 TASTING PANEL snapshot: sauvignon (blanc)

was also mentioned, along with a lack of spe- Spalding: All of the cific knowledge of the country’s appellations, wines had interesting though pleas were made for more marketing food-pairing possi- and educational efforts. Only one corked bottle bilities, with notes of appeared; a sweet wine mistakenly sent by an honeysuckle, pollen, importer was also disqualified, but much ap- melon, citrus, and par- preciated after lunch. affin, and most with The following are representative comments cohesive minerality. from the panelists about each category. A couple of the wines had some “booziness,” Rebula (Ribolla) with Marjan and Edi A variety also found immediately across the Simčič’s Ribollas my border in ’s Friuli, Rebula is a mainstay of favorites for the range of flavors. Slovenia’s Brda (Collio) region. Randle: Overall, there was a huge difference be- Davis: Across the board, incredibly approach- tween the wines, with the Simčičs’ wines my able, with the Edi Simčič more foxy and rustic. tops, but nothing life-changing. Kabaj was my favorite, with integrated viscous, mineral notes. Sauvignon (Blanc) Miller: Characterful without flaws, with Marjan Sauvignons are made throughout Slovenia. David Furer is the author of Wine Places (Mitch- Simčič’s Opoka having a classic malty richness Since the west’s marl-based soils and warmer ell Beazley, 2005); a with good acidity and aromatics—a reference climate differ greatly from the stonier soils and contributor to the annual point for Ribolla. cooler temperatures of the east, styles of these Wine Report, Hugh John- Rodil: Vast and difficult to pinpoint as “clas- wines varied to the point of controversy. son’s Pocket Wine Book, sic,” making it difficult to pick out one that was Miller: A I and everyone else know more the Which? Wine Guide, most complete. The Ribolla from Marjan Simčič about than Ribolla—it was interesting, but not and the recently published showed great evolution and approachability on as much as the previous flight. The Sauvignon book Opus Vino; and the palate, while its Opoka fit preconceived no- Blanc from Pullus was the most obvious, fresh, a writer for numerous tions of what I thought Ribolla should be. and familiar style. I wanted to like some of the magazines throughout the Garcia: Across the board, I noticed mint with others, but the balances were off. world. He has led wine medium-plus body and richness. I’ve had little Davis: Stark variation in this flight compared classes and lectured at the experience with Ribolla, but my favorite was to Ribolla. The Pullus was as University of Chicago, Oxford and Cambridge from Bati ; floral and chalky, it reminded me of pitch-perfect as I could hope, but the constant I č universities, and the grand cru Chablis. got was a varnishy, mineral note. Volkshochschulen in Gianola: I enjoyed the flight, and it showed a di- Rodil: I found this flight less appealing, too, and Germany, and has passed versity of styles. They had great food flexibility, the overwhelming volcanic minerality wasn’t as the Advanced-level exam putting me in mind of a pesce crudo plate. Kabaj pleasant as I’d liked. Stylistically, the lush style of the Court of Master was my favorite. of Zanut balanced it out; others lacked acidity. Sommeliers.

Sommelier Journal 21 snapshot: (sivi pinot/pinot grigio)

Spalding: The category showed a range of citrus flavors, oughly. There was almost an elevated quality here to what though Edi Simčič showed a minty, mossy character. Over- can be an unenthusiastic grape. The melon, nutty, pithy all, an interesting study in minerality, with some examples qualities showed well here. Marjan Simčič was my favorite— searingly so. My favorite was Pullus’s Sauvignon Blanc as a well-balanced, but with high alcohol and a minerally finish. quaffer. It was nutty, peachy, brassy, clean, and made me want to Garcia: Each wine displayed high viscosity, with grapefruit drink more. and tangerine elements and some caraway notes. The Edi Garcia: The wines were star-bright to brilliant with an oily Simčič had the darkest color and highest acid, with some texture—even the more acidic styles. I noticed more residual cherry; had I not known the color, I’d have thought it a light sugar in some. My favorite was the classic Pullus, with its red from Piedmont. orchard skins, white grapefruit, and passion fruit. Gianola: I enjoyed the Ribolla more. This flight lacked an Gianola: I was very impressed by the quality of the flight, underlying vein of typicity: what’s Slovenian Sauvignon? Za- its great depth and range of flavors, and the high acidity of nut’s minerality kept it balanced—it was my favorite. all the wines. It was Randle: I was much more into this flight than the previous hard to come up with one, with Marjan Simčič’s Opoka my favorite. I could drink a favorite, but Pullus this all day long; it reminded me of Friuli. The Tilia was off was noteworthy for its and weird, like a daiginjo shochu. rosé-like appearance. Spalding: This flight Pinot Gris (Sivi Pinot/Pinot Grigio) exhibited a wider This flight probably offered the most welcome surprises. range of flavors, with Both parts of the country drew comparisons to Alsace. citrus and, for two of Rodil: I found this flight very exciting and enjoyed it thor- them, savory, herbal,

snapshot: chardonnay

22 April 30, 2011 tasting panel and brown-spice qualities. All of them had good balance and Spalding: I had a hard minerality, with only Tilia flattening out on the finish. Batič time finding a defin- was the most balanced and interesting to me. ing characteristic with Davis: Incredibly diverse, with the wines falling into two this flight. Citrus and camps: stone fruit or citrus. Batič stood out, and like the pineapple notes and other judges, I had more descriptors than with the previous medium body were categories. I appreciated the tea-leaf notes I found in several typical, with my favor- of the wines. ite being Edi Simčič’s Miller: I tied Batič with Kabaj—two very different wines— Chardonnay, too. It’d pair nicely with a cumin-and-lemon- with a nudge to Batič’s gorgeous, Alsace-like aromatics, mel- lime-accented Mexican dish. on, citrus, and minerality. Kabaj’s age lent it some marma- Randle: Edi Simčič’s Chardonnay also stood out for me as the lade notes and made it alluring in an aged way. best of these wines. Randle: A huge profile diversity here. Batič had a Mezcal Miller: The Chardonnay from Edi Simčič had the most com- smoke and fruit-cocktail thing going on—an insanely beau- plexity, though I liked Sanctum more for its peachy, marma- tiful wine, genius. Kabaj I loved, and Tilia was more in an lade qualities, despite the likely residual sugar. Alsatian style. I loved them all. Miscellaneous Chardonnay These wines were widely divergent in terms of both va- Characteristics that stood out to the panelists were the rieties and styles. Edi Simčič’s Beli Pinot (Pinot Blanc), San- well-balanced use of oak and, after such a diverse grouping tomas’s Malvasia, and Marjan Simčič’s Sauvignonasse (origi- of Pinot Gris, the similarity of the wines. nally called Tocai, and also known as Sauvignon Vert and Garcia: The most homogenous category, with my favorite be- Friulano) garnered the most positive attention. ing Edi Simčič’s Chardonnay—more finely wrought, with Spalding: This flight was pretty well structured, with Pul- clear acidity and a lilac note. lus’s wildflower qualities and Edi Simčič’s paraffin notes and Gianola: The Friuli influence was showing here. The Edi minerality pleasing me Simčič Chardonnay showed elegance, balance, and good oak the most. integration. Randle: I wasn’t as ex- Rodil: Impressive flight all around, and well structured. Edi cited as I thought I’d Simčič’s Chardonnay was my favorite for its delightful oak be; this was my least integration and its sense of place. favorite flight. Edi Davis: I was very impressed with all of the oak and acid in- Simčič was mature tegration, with Edi Simčič’s Chardonnay the standout of the and complex, and Pul- flight for me. lus was fruit-forward.

snapshot: miscellaneous

Sommelier Journal 23 snapshot: blends

participating Gianola: I wasn’t enthused, found ing going on. There wineries one with a sulfur problem, and wasn’t a stinker in the liked the Edi Simčič best. bunch. My favorite Eastern Slovenia Garcia: My favorite was Pullus, was Batič’s Zaria—it Štajerska Slovenija with its great floral characteristics had gorgeous marma- and incredibly high acidity. lade and spices, beau- Jeruzalem-Ormoz Davis: Across the board, it was an tiful explosive fruit on Kogl excellent advertisement of what a the palate, and linger- Maribor small country we’re unfamiliar with ing acidity. Črnko can do. My favorite was Santomas, Garcia: Good flight overall, with some sulfur issues in Bo- Pohorje-Slovenske a gorgeous wine I kept going back nisimus, Klinec, and Marjan Simčič. My favorite was Batič’s Konjice to for its fruit-acid balance. Zaria, with its cloudy appearance, rosemary, peppermint, Sanctum Miller: I was hoping for more varia- chamomile, bergamot, and orange; long on the palate, with Slovenske Gorice- tion, more cool things. Edi Simčič high acidity. Ptuj had complexity, mulling spices, Gianola: I was pleased with the quality of the blends; they Pullus balanced acidity, and maturity. really shined. Batič’s Bonisimus had citrus notes, but was Rodil: Edi Sim i reminded me of something serious that you could enjoy with dinners. Western Slovenia č č how good an excellent Chasselas Davis: The Bonisimus was like a good Beatles song in that it Goriška Brda might be, but with a touch of resid- kept changing in a harmonious way. Bastianich Adriatico ual sugar. It was fun, a bit spritzy, Rodil: All of the blends were quite diverse, with standouts (Ribolla only) and unlike anything else we tast- Klinec and Movia. Movia ended up my favorite because there Edi Simčič ed. Most were quaffers rather than was a touch of an onion note and a citrus midpalate with Kabaj wines of complexity. The skin con- integrated oak, and it was seamless on the palate. The Bonisi- Klinec Marjan Simčič tact, which is sweeping the region, mus’s oak was a touch askew for me, but I also enjoyed it. Movia made fewer appearances. Randle: The Edi Simčič was brilliant, with stewed fruit going Zanut on—the real deal. Klinec was kind of sulfur-stinky, but still Slovenska Istra Blends delicious. A big step up from earlier flights; I liked it overall, Vying with Pinot Gris for the and it included some of the day’s best. Santomas most excitement, this flight was a Spalding: It’s hard to choose a favorite because they were so Vipavska Dolina testament to terroir and the highest diverse, lacking typicity and hard to pin down, but mostly Batič winemaker’s art. pretty well balanced. I thought the Marjan Simčič was kind Guerila Miller: The blends were the morn- of flabby and hollow, with a wet-wool quality. The standout Tilia ing’s highlight—amazing with was Črnko, with a Viognier-ish, blossomy quality. I enjoyed all the complexity and winemak- the Zaria as well, with its zingy minerality and perfume.

24 April 30, 2011