Vintage, Antique Textiles & Passion for Fashion Tue, 15th Jun 2021 GMT/BST Viewing: Viewing for this sale is strictly by appointment only, and you must be registered to bid with us in advance. Please contact us directly to arrange an appointment, with the available times as follows: Tuesday 1st June- Friday 4th June: 9:00am-5pm Monday 7th June- Friday 11th June : 9:00am-5pm Additional viewing times may be considered, by special request. Lot 334
Estimate: £6000 - £10000 + Fees Chanel couture by Karl Lagerfeld 'L'Imperatrice' crinolined coatdress, Spring-Summer 1984 labelled and numbered 63225, the basket-weave cloqué navy silk over-dress with silver-backed gilt lion mask buttons from neck to hem, cuffs and to the four patch pockets, the 'crinoline' underskirt with matching navy silk front and flounces of black taffeta to add volume to the back; with faux blister pearl and gilt chain martingale which fastens at the neck and descends to girdle the waist and hips, bust 86cm, 34in, waist 66cm, 26in (3) Inès de La Fressange was photographed wearing this model in Paris Vogue, March 1984. It is also reproduced in 'Chanel Catwalk' by Alexander Fury, p 33, again modelled by de La Fressange. It was one of the key looks of that collection and is arguably one of Lagerfeld's most iconic and important creations ever for the House of Chanel. This dress combines the 19th century silhouette of the fashions worn by Empress Eugenie, with the elaborate passementerie used on military uniforms with Coco's adoration of chains and pearls and the restrained elegance of a classic Chanel suit. Alexander Fury considered this to be one of the most important looks for Chanel as he featured it in 'Chanel: The Impossible Collection', Assouline, 2019, for which he selected just one hundred designs from the Chanel archives to best demonstrate the history and highlights of the House. He writes: '“CHANEL IMPERATRICE” COATDRESS, HAUTE COUTURE, SPRING 1984. By his third couture collection, Lagerfeld had begun to challenge convention. In this outfit, the Chanel jacket is elongated to floor length, reflecting eighteenth-century styles, of which Lagerfeld was an admirer, and also the attenuated silhouettes of Chanel’s 1930s fashions. The pure line of this coatdress is in the Chanel mould, as is the embellishment of faux pearls and chains. Echoing military decorations, these are a nod to the “empress” of the look’s title, and underline the inspiration Chanel herself constantly took from the practical attire of infantry'. Provenance: the Sandy Schreier Collection.