PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 Phone 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 Email [email protected]
Puerto Rico Trip Report Jan. 3-11, 2013
Guides Peg Abbott of Naturalist Journeys, with Hilda Morales and Sergio Colon Lopez of Birding Puerto Rico, and 11 participants: Ralph, Regina, Jean, Lynda, Suzanne, Nancy, Helen, Mahlon, Jackie, Charlotte, and Ed.
Thursday, Jan. 3, 2013 Arrival in Old San Juan Several of the group arrived early enough in the day, or the day before, to enjoy the historic ambiance of Old San Juan, a remarkable New World city celebrating its heritage of five centuries. The charm of the place is immediately apparent, with narrow cobbled streets, brightly colored buildings, Spanish colonial churches and the most impressive fortress walls defining the city. While a casino hotel is not our usual style, Peg chose the Sheraton for its location, looking right at the harbor with the old city just out the door. It was so close to the harbor one looks into the bellies of cruise ships that dock in half-day succession. Those arriving in time met in the hotel lobby to walk to a restaurant suggested by one of our participants, Mahlon, which turned out to be a delight. The staff members of Al Dente were most
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hospitable, and the food was very fine. The city was particularly lit up due to the holidays, with the Puerto Rican peak of the season still ahead – the gift giving day of the Three Kings (Epiphany) when children get their presents and families gather. Some took a walk through the streets after dinner, while others turned in quickly to rest.
Friday, Jan. 4, 2013 Old San Juan / Luquillo / El Yunque National Forest
Today we met Delcia Gonzales, a delightful and knowledgeable guide and former park service communications specialist. She lit up our day with her bright smile and enthusiasm as we walked through San Juan, a city she obviously loved. She taught us a lot about the island of Old San Juan, its formidable fortresses, its narrow mouth to its quiet harbor of turquoise waters, and its cathedrals, neighborhoods and restaurants. She answered our questions in earnest and smiled as we stopped to watch Monk Parakeets, now a noisy introduced addition to the city. Ralph spotted a Peregrine and we all watched a pelican preening on the waterfront. The morning passed quickly, but we were all glad to get this fine introduction to the city. One would need several days to take it in more fully, with so many museums, plazas, and places to visit, but of the feast we took a bite. We had lunch at atmospheric El Jibertad, a good place to try mofongo, a yucca, plantain and potato mash they serve either baked or fried.
After lunch we headed back to the Sheraton and observed that the giant cruise ships had already changed during our absence. After gathering our suitcases, we left for the countryside, traveling east to Luquillo, a small city on the sea. Our lodgings were simple at Hotel Yunque Mar, but our rooms had small porches looking out at the Atlantic, which at this time held large waves and the roar of surf. The staff was ready for us, and we quickly changed clothes to head to nearby El Yunque, the only rainforest of our U.S. National Forest System. We would explore two sides of the park.
This afternoon we went in the main gate, el Portal, and headed up in elevation, traveling through four
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distinct plant communities. Large tree ferns were abundant; impressive whorls of fern-like leaves radiated out over an impressive array of other plants, many in bloom. An introduced giant bamboo lined much of the road for a stretch, and in time we found the Sierra Palm, mainstay for endangered Puerto Rican Parrots. At the highest reaches bromeliads clad branches and trunks in profusion.
Alas, this stunning forest seemed almost devoid of birds today! We worked at it, listening to distant calls of Puerto Rican (PR) Bullfinches and PR Tanagers, Stripe-headed Tanagers and others. We did find a few that we know from home, a female Black-throated Blue Warbler seemed much at home prying between vines and bromeliads, and a young male American Redstart seemed curious and came in making its resonant “tick”. We heard a PR Lizard Cuckoo in the distance but gained only views of more Bananaquits, plentiful in all habitats today.
Hilda had found a hole in a clay bank that a pair of PR Todies had been excavating, thinking about using for their nest. We had great hopes of easy looks at Mr. and Mrs. Tody, but the hole was in a crowded parking area where people started hiking to a waterfall. We waited some time but heard no call and saw no action – all the activity might have been too much for them. We did see another pair quickly but they were hyper-active and we hoped in time we’d see them sit to admire their bright emerald and magenta colors and form.
We headed down the mountain to be at the Visitor’s Center at dark. Arriving there perhaps a half hour ahead of that, we were able to get good views of Loggerhead Kingbirds, and heard calls of PR Woodpeckers and PR Lizard Cuckoos. We were here to do a night walk, and within minutes of dark we heard at least three PR Screech Owls. There was little wind, so their calls carried well and we heard several varieties, including their abrupt loud greeting calls. We were able to see them in flight, but in the massive tangles of vine and profusion of leaves we were not able to get them sitting in the flashlight. At one time one flew quite close overhead, so we could see the size and sense the wingspan. Silent and quick, only those directly underneath sensed this at all! We found several Coqui frogs, and then some newborn coquis – tiny pencil-eraser size frogs born live to their dripping green wet world. The sounds of coquis were also varied (several species). Hilda found us some bioluminescent fungi as we walked further into the forest, making a loop that was longer than expected, but enjoyable on a clear tropical night. Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
We were ready for dinner at El Pepe’s, a fun local restaurant that happened to be celebrating its tenth anniversary that night. We would have sat outside on the porch but as Puerto Ricans like their music LOUD, we opted for upstairs, where we could still hear it but also each other. They welcomed us with beer, and we enjoyed dinner of marinated beefsteak with onions, various types of quesadillas, or chicken with (or without) garlic sauce.
This had been a very full day! We returned to dive into our beds for some rest, and to prepare for the following day.
Saturday, Jan. 5 West Side of El Yunque / El Portal trails / Three Kings Eve
This morning we wanted to explore El Yunque in more detail, in a place less crowded than the bustling road with numerous trailheads and vista points that winds up from El Portal. Little did we know that birds seem to like noise and company as much as the Puerto Rican people do! Beautiful views and a sense of the lush forest were the main rewards for venturing to the west side of the forest.
A red dog Peg named “Dreadlocks” came out as we parked to check for birds. He longed for our company, and followed us about, coming up to say hello with no knowledge that while he had a sweet face he also had fetid odors, which were strong enough that it was impossible to pet him. Someone had left him in a parking area, and we hoped he would soon charm his way back into
someone’s home. As we left to continue up the mountain, our conversation in the bus soon turned to descriptions of our pets, likely home sleeping on the couch, ready for their next meal. Several hatched rescue plans for the dog, but with a full day ahead, it seemed impossible.
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We walked a bit further here, up to an overgrown picnic area, but even in this open area the birds were quiet. Time for another plan!
We decided to head back to the El Portal side for our lunch at a picnic area where Hilda often had luck seeing flocks of small birds, and there our patience was rewarded. We had a couple of migrant warblers, Black-and-white and Northern Parula, a group of PR Tanagers, and we heard almost continuously, the still-elusive PR Bullfinch. The trail was a loop between picnic shelters, quite lovely and lush with vegetation.
Flowers drew in PR Emeralds and we saw both male and female. It was nice to perch on the benches at various levels and to just sit and wait for species to come while taking in the sounds of the forest. Families were out as it was a holiday and a weekend, but it was fun to see them enjoying themselves. In the parking lot Ralph ducked out for a coffee and came back to find us all agape – we had found one of the most beautiful endemics, the PR Spindalis, also known as Stripe- headed Tanager, and it was putting on a great show. With several shades of orange on its breast and a black and white striped head it seems like it would be hard to miss, but amid the fruiting bodies of the Cecropia tree it seemed more like a fruit itself. It poked and probed around sweet nectaries of the flowers, ignoring the constant clicks of our cameras. The female was a cryptic patterned olive color – nice to see the pair!
After this great sighting we got back in the bus aglow, and chatted merrily as we descended a road now familiar to us. We wanted to stop at the Visitor Center to take in the exhibits, and found it to be a class-act exhibit all around. Opened in 1996, the spacious, open- air building has extensive exhibits, plants entwining the walls, several water features, a grand array of gaudy ginger and other tropical plants, and a gift store where Peg loaded up on local books and Ralph and Regina adorned themselves with some great new T-shirts.
We left before dark, admiring Red-legged Thrushes in the parking lot before we went. Suzanne enjoys going to church when in other countries and with Hilda’s help with transport we were able to drop her off and pick her up for services. We all enjoyed her tales of Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
everyone’s warm hospitality, the singing and gift giving at this festival of the Three Kings.
Dinner was definitely local – at a café and market just down from the hotel, where Edgar, the Yunque Mar hotel manager, was also eating, and intervened to help take good care of us. People moved over to make room for us; the service was quick for sampling mofongo, arepas and seafood, or burgers for those not feeling adventurous.
Sunday, Jan. 6 Eastern Lowlands / Cambalache Forest
Getting into the spirit of things, Ralph requested an early morning walk, so several of the group met Sergio to go for a stroll. Morning seems to bring strong winds from the sea, so the birding was not excellent, but they added Bronze Mannikins and Antillean Mangos to the list, along with several doves and our faithful Gray Kingbirds.
This morning we headed over the lowlands of the eastern side of the country, in search of hummingbirds and other species we had not yet seen. Shortly after leaving the hotel we spied an Osprey over the sea. Just past Fajardo, we walked in an agricultural area where cattle egrets fed among well-fed Brahma cattle, crowded by pink morning glory flowers. Ed said the cattle were curious, as he observed them all coming over to see the action our group made at the edge of their pasture.
Our excitement was a flock of Bronze and Nutmeg Mannikins, and orange-billed non-breeding plumage Pin- tailed Wydahs all very obvious in small flocks that perched on fence wires. Gray Kingbirds uttered their constant trills, punctuated by Northern Mockingbirds, and the high, wheezy notes of Black-faced Grassquits. Swallows fed like aerial schools of fish, most of them Cave Swallows, with a few Barn Swallows mixed in. From here we went over to walk a residential street near the Ceiba airport that before Hurricane Hugo was lined with Queen of Flowers trees. A few large ones remained, and they were magnets for hummingbirds. Today most present were Green-throated Caribs, joined by White-winged and Eurasian-collared Doves. At one point a Merlin came roaring through with prey in its talons. It landed not too far away on a branch and, well fed, it did not stray. We got great scope views and it remained there as we pulled away.
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We went back for lunch at one of Hilda’s favorite local restaurants, where the owners were kind enough to open for us with a special buffet, as most businesses are closed on the celebratory day of Epiphany. They were all ready, with a buffet of Caribbean dishes, cold drinks, and at the end of the meal, good Puerto Rican coffee. Charlotte was on a roll for her mofongo comparison quest! The restaurant bordered a lovely golf course with plantings, and around our tables Greater Antillean Grackles hopped around looking for crumbs.
In the comfort of our mini-bus, roomy for 12 of us and guides, we crossed much of the northern coast, passing by San Juan and then Arecibo, with our final destination being the northern beachside town of Hatillo.
Before getting there, we turned off to wander the wide trails of Bosque Cambalache, a 1000-acre state forest reserve with an extensive canopy of 60-80 ft. trees. Here we found a drier type of forest, growing on limestone, less luxuriant than forests of the Luquillo area growing on richer volcanic soils. An interpretive sign at the start of the trail summarized many of the species we could see. More open in character, this forest afforded us easier views of the birds, and we found several of the endemics, while enjoying very good views.
First on the list (bird of the day for many) was the PR Tody. How do you get cuter than this active emerald and magenta colored gem? We soon learned their call, which alerted us to their presence as we passed pair after pair. Our photographers lingered, but soon there was competition from PR Lizard Cuckoos, several pair of which flew in for quick views. We soon spread out, and one group turned off near a campground. As they approached a clearing, several got views of a Ruddy Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
Quail Dove in flight, showing off its rich amber hues. We heard both Black-whiskered and PR vireos, and our first Adelaide’s Warblers. Time passed quickly and we thoroughly enjoyed some great walks and birding in this place. We also had super looks at Puerto Rican Giant Lizard (Anolis cuvieri), with a leaf in its jaws, stretched out on the bark of a tree. Gathering back at the bus we heard the distinct calls of PR Woodpeckers close by, and to our delight, we capped off the day with super looks at a pair, which Peg got the scope on.
We left at dusk, got settled into our rooms at a business-type hotel in Hatillo, and gathered at their restaurant. It did not seem too promising with a sports-bar atmosphere (we wanted local flavor but had a hard time with super loud music, blaring TV and AC on super-high!) but as the night before, they were kind to turn it down to make us welcome. We had a surprisingly good meal with local shrimps being the star menu option. After a run down the bird list, we retired for the night.
Monday, Jan. 7 Rio Bravo Forest Reserve / Rocky Beach at Camuy / Flamingo Lagoons / El Merendero Lookout Picnic Site / the town of Mayagüez / La Parguera
We had ice cream at close to six pm today, an indication of how much we packed into our day ahead of that! On a scouting trip we sample many things, and sometimes we sample too many. We got way behind on a walk in search of Puerto Rican Parrots, at the Rio Bravo Forest Reserve. The walk followed an old logging road, and though it climbed steadily, the footing was good and the forest was so beautiful and varied, natural history delights pulled us along. We found land snails clinging to leaves, tracked tiny PR Vireos high in the trees, and saw a pair of PR Woodpeckers really working a tree over while feeding.
We were surprised to see cars on the road, but several four-wheel drive vehicles came by, carrying dignitaries along with biologists up to the parrot aviaries. They recognized Sergio, who conducts a number of surveys in cooperation with US Fish and Wildlife Service on various species. We knew our chances were small of seeing the parrots, but Sergio does see the flock here from time to time, and the wild flock members released here still show affinity to the site, and when feed is available come to make visits. Little did we know that the Broad-winged Hawk we admired in the scope en route would lessen our chances! It, and a Red-tailed Hawk, were flying about the site, and when we saw the visiting dignitaries descend, they commented on seeing both and how quiet it made even the captive birds.
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We lingered longer than we should have but could just not pull ourselves away (thus the 6PM ice cream, as we did not want to give up any of the rest of our day)! Returning to the parking lot, having seen the PR Pewee and a juvenile PR Oriole in a dense clump of bromeliads, we were still satisfied. Hilda was especially agitated as she greeted us, “did you see them?”, as she and Ed had had a fly-by in the picnic area by where we parked the bus! Hilda heard them and counted three. Ed did not see them well, but described them as crow-sized. A team of entomologists and botanists working in the area were there and heard them as well. So close and yet so far! The Puerto Rican Parrot is making a slow and precarious comeback with diligent efforts at this second release site, separated from their traditional area in the mountains of Luquillo. They are still one of Earth’s rarest creatures, and it was fascinating to see their habitat, foods they consume, and to learn more about the project and its challenges.
From Rio Bravo we headed to the beach, to a beautiful spot where large rocks sculptured a fine little bay. Today an American Oystercatcher pair was home, along with a cluster of Sanderlings, a Spotted Sandpiper, and several Brown Pelican that vied with the locals for off-shore fishing. We were mesmerized by the surf and enjoyed taking scenic photos. We also scoped a pond across from the beach, picking up several heron species for the day.
From here we drove to another pond, this one home to an American Flamingo, one of two that found their way to Puerto Rico as youngsters, this one persists on solo. Several Great Egrets kept it company, and the pond held coots and moorhens in good number. We got the scope out and had fine looks at a perched Peregrine, but the real show stopper was a White-cheeked Pintail with a brood of ten, the size of wind-up toys. Cliff Swallows whizzed about, and as temperatures were good and the weather fine, we lingered here as well.
At one stop we watched what seemed to be a kid’s birthday party or some fun event, where adults and kids of all ages were “sledding”, racing down a small incline on large pieces of cardboard – often larger than themselves. What fun! In Puerto Rico they call this, “tigűero”.
At some point we fit lunch in at La Meson where good coffee as well as a varied menu gave us some fuel for the rest of the day. We detoured off the main road west to stop at a picnic area with a short trail out to a viewpoint. We hoped to catch the first of the season’s White-tailed Tropicbirds that nest here, but it Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
was unrealistically early in the season and in the short time we had none were present above the windy, choppy waters this day. Time to track some road miles, so we headed for Mayagüez, a Puerto Rican town that Hilda clearly treasured.
Hilda grew up here, from age six onwards, and her lively commentary about the town brought it to life for us. The promise of ice cream from a small shop near the town square made us put up with 5PM traffic. We admired the theatre, the local church, and all the decorations still up boldly for the holiday of the Three Kings and here for inauguration of the mayor. Mango seemed to be the favorite flavor – we had our cups filled and wandered out into the square, where the setting sun gave everything a beautiful glow.
It was a more than full day, and several of us went light on dinner having filled up on ice cream. The meal was not memorable but the hotel, while a little tired, held its charms – interesting floor tiles and rattan furniture in the public areas. Mahlon could see its potential, and commented later that a Bed, Bath and Beyond store could go a long way in Puerto Rico – any takers? We especially noted the lovely, multi-level patios outside that led to a dock protruding into the bay. Looking forward to seeing Yellow-shouldered Blackbirds in the area and other species in the morning (including a Belted Kingfisher that made many of us feel right at home), we fell into bed!
Tuesday, Jan. 8 Salt Flats / Cabo Rojo Lighthouse and the magic Parking Lot / Galloways at Boquerón / Laguna Cartagena National Wildlife Refuge
Today was a full day, so we scrapped our plans to return for some R and R and a swim but each place was very special; the final stop at Laguna Cartagena particularly so. In January the Salt Flats are pretty quiet, but all of us gawked at scope views of hundreds of Stilt Sandpipers, a species few of us see very often. They were packed in tight, and several times lifted off the water to return to another patch of mangrove roots and shade. Peg spotted a far view of Snowy Plovers,
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which seemed undaunted by sun and salt, standing out at the water’s edge, feeding. Royal Terns rested atop pilings, and a couple of Great Blue Herons were present.
We scanned with scopes and, satisfied we’d made a thorough inspection, we continued along a bumpy road to the trailhead up to the historic Cabo Rojo lighthouse. Up was the operative word, so some opted to rest in the bus, while the rest gawked at views of turquoise waters on three sides as the trail led them upwards. A Prairie Warbler was a nice find, as was a very bright “Golden” Yellow Warbler. Views were tremendous and the lighthouse was in excellent shape. We found a Brown Booby perched halfway down the outer cliffs, a nice addition to our growing list.
Those in the parking lot did not feel left behind – it turned out they had hit the birding mother lode, with great views of Mangrove Cuckoo, Prairie Warbler and PR Flycatcher at close range. We also got views of PR Eleania.
Hilda had picked out a great waterfront restaurant for us, where we had views of large tarpon fish attracted to those tossing crumbs, an Osprey, and both Sandwich and Royal Terns. David the waiter was King, and he took good care of us with quite the flair. He paraded around with a fresh Spiny Lobster. Many of us had fresh fish sandwiches, and several topped it off with the local Medalla beer. We were supposed to also fit in a marvelous fresh fruit frappe, but we were still full on our ice cream from the day before and opted out – next visit!
We spent half the afternoon at a tremendous birding spot, a scenic one with long views over to mountains. Laguna Cartagena NWR is one of the most important freshwater wetlands in Puerto Rico, and a dike extending out between ponds afforded us good views of West Indian Whistling Ducks, Glossy Ibis, both American and Caribbean coots, several wintering duck species, and Sora that we heard in good number. The views of mountains and lush wetlands in combination were dramatic, so much so it was hard to focus on birding. Right off the bat Mahlon and Charlotte spotted a Green Heron, intent on hunting. One of the showiest species was Purple Gallinule. We had quick looks at introduced Orange-billed Waxbills. We spent a full hour here, but had been going strong for so many days we opted to head back to ensure a break before the evening outing. Otherwise we could have stayed here for the sheer beauty beyond its intrinsic Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
biological value.
Tonight was the night to experience Puerto Rico’s phenomena of bioluminescence at one of the “bio- bays” close to our hotel. We went out in a small boat with a local captain, and marveled at the glow, powered by microscopic in size dinoflagellates, Pyrodinium bahamense. Between the glow of water and the shine of the stars, it was a “sparkling” evening!
Wednesday, Jan. 9 Maricao State Forest / Lunch at Eric’s Bakery / Fish Hatchery Road
Today we left our lodgings on the Caribbean coast to head up in elevation – in search of the Elfin Woods Warbler and other species of epiphyte-laden forests of the mountains.
We had a lot of fun having lunch at the small bakery of the mountain town of Maricao. A week in Puerto Rico under our belts, several ordered their sandwiches in Spanish. There were some tempting sweet treats to try out, and Mahlon sampled the Bluebell ice cream, a favorite brand of ours from Texas we were surprised to find here! The town is nestled in folds of the Cordillera Central, and we were pleased to be able to buy local whole bean coffee. Sergio had recently completed the Christmas Bird Count here, and was prepared to show us several Elfin Wood Warblers. He had success right off the bat, but we were just piling out of the bus, and only a few of the group got credible looks. We then heard them several times, had quick glimpses, but most remained just out of reach, alas! This warbler was the last of the New World warblers to be described, having a close resemblance in plumage, though not in song or behavior, to Black-and-white warblers.
It was fun to search, and while doing so we saw PR Vireos, PR Tanagers, PR Flycatchers, Mangrove Cuckoos, and Peg had a real prize, a non-breeding plumage Connecticut Warbler poking its chocolate-colored head up to show off that eye-ring – wow. One of the spots we tried was on a very busy road, and we enjoyed a quiet trail far more. Here we had time to photograph butterflies, sort out song, and wait for birds to come through. Ralph also found a small trail that gave us a canopy-tower type view, just above the road. We made two attempts at all the key areas, and
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also enjoyed a leisurely walk up the quiet road near the local fish hatchery, where tall clusters of bamboo arched overhead.
We did not enjoy the food at our hotel and pressed Hilda to let us try another place. There the food was better, but oh my, the service was dismally slow, and after a long day it tried our patience. In time they’ll likely have haute cuisine and a spa here. We summed it up to pioneering nature tourism, but longed still for amenities as out of reach as the day’s warbler! We did have a good time watching sunset, and were able to hear highly rare (critically endangered due to their very limited range in dry forests of Puerto Rico) PR Nightjars – a half a dozen or so.
Thursday, Jan. 10 Walking and Birding at Guanica Forest, a Biosphere Reserve / Return to Old San Juan and real FEAST for our final evening
We had one last morning to walk in the wilds of Puerto Rican nature, and we enjoyed it fully. Frist, we watched as the Yellow-shouldered Blackbirds left their morning roost, then loaded our gear to go.
The drive was about a half hour, passing scenic Guanica Bay. We were in luck, as the banding team running long term projects in the area was here and about half way around our trail, we were able to observe their work in action. Wayne Arendt, his wife and a project intern were busy as we met them. Time flew by as we watched them
process a migrant Ovenbird, a female with good fat and muscle. The next bird was a “biter” they handled with care, and one we were thrilled to see up close, the endemic resident Puerto Rican Bullfinch, a colorful male. We could have stayed all day! Other good sightings of the day were Mangrove Cuckoos, PR Todies (several), PR Pewees at close range, Adeleide’s Warblers, and more.
Peg had a scare, having left her binoculars at last night’s dinner location. She’d set them on a chair, and after the very long wait, did not remember. With luck, while we walked at Guanica Hilda was able to
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make contact through texting, and the owner arrived to return them from the safe where they had spent the night. Kind and honest people and a happy Peg!
We had to backtrack a bit so the group signed on to the idea of a fast food lunch. We liked El Meson, a Puerto Rican chain that began with a one man operation, highly successful and growing. A few snuck off next door to Burger King, just too tempting and we were closing in on that homeward transition...
We worked on the final list (101 species plus another half-dozen heard-only), asked Hilda a dozen questions, and talked about our trip highlights as we made our way back to San Juan. Our local guides and drivers needed to be on their way, so we bid adieu as we booked into our rooms at the Sheraton Old San Juan. Peg, Ralph and Regina had scouted several restaurant options ahead of the tour, and happily, their selection proved to be a winner.
Verde Mesa is located across from one of the best views of the bay, in a charming historic building that they use to the max. The ceiling is tin, the lighting artistic, and the atmosphere so conducive to making an evening meal transform itself into an event. Our net time at dinner was even greater than the night before, but this time it was our choice. We had appetizers served on beautiful platters – candied mango, pigeon pea hummus, artisan breads, ratatouille, organic tomatoes and feta. Many of us chose fresh seafood for main dishes, others chose one of their carefully-crafted vegetarian options made with local organic produce and a few started with salads or ceviche. Mango tarts, berry meringues, and pineapple crumble were a few of the desserts. Luckily we had a walk home through the magical streets of Old San Juan to get home, for we had had a veritable feast and needed to stretch a bit before retiring! We ended our exploration of Puerto Rico with a good chance to visit, and left with full bellies and a happy glow.
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Friday, Jan. 11 Departures from San Juan
Many of our group had afternoon flights, and looked forward to sleeping in, walking a bit in Old San Juan and taking an easy twenty- minute taxi ride to the airport. A few saw another sunrise over the bay and were off at dawn. We all left happy to have seen our Commonwealth of Puerto Rico and no longer would it be just an island on the map.
We learned a lot, saw some fantastic birds and scenery and met a lot of fascinating people. We had a few bumps along the way, mainly in infrastructure still- developing, but all in all it was a good week we’ll remember for many years ahead.
Photo Credits: Ralph Anavy – Mesa Verde Restaurant shots Jean Bassett: Galloway’s Birding Puerto Rico: Lizard Cuckoo. Helen Gigliotti: Pg. 1 El Morro, Pg. 2 Old San Juan Wall, Palm forest. Pg. 3 Visitor Center. Pg. 4 Loggerhead Kingbird. Pg. 6 Pin-tailed Wydah, Pg. 13 Sunset. Pg. 15 Old San Juan streets. Pg. 17 PR Tody.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
Mahlon Hale: Pg. 4 Zebra Longwing. Pg. 5 Emerald in Flowers. Pg. 6 Gray Kingbird. Pg. 7 PR Tody, Pg. 8 PR Woodpecker, Pg. 9 Brown Pelican over Jade Water, Flamingo. Pg. 11 Mangrove Cuckoo. Pg. 12 Euphonia male, PR Pewee. Pg. 13 Troupial. Pg. 15 Green Heron.
Other photos by Peg Abbott.
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]
Many thanks to Hilda and Sergio of Birding Puerto Rico!
Naturalist Journeys, LLC PO Box 16545 Portal, AZ 85632 PH: 520.558.1146 Toll free 866.900.1146 Fax 650.471.7667 www.naturalistjourneys.com Email [email protected]