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Wood Buffalo Cover: Two bison bulls Folded rock beds on Peace River A whooping crane Introducing a park and an idea The river valleys and lowlands Canada covers half a continent, fronts on three oceans and The Peace River occupies a wide, flat valley with very stretches from the extreme Arctic more than halfway to little drop along its course. This causes the river to mean­ National Park the equator. der and change its course from time to time. Davidson There is a great variety of landforms in this immense Lake and the Big Slough are remains of old river courses. country, and national parks have been created to preserve The Slave River lowlands occupy only small areas along important examples for you and for generations to come. the west side of the river above Fort Smith. Here the The National Parks Act of 1930 specifies that national river marks the boundary between the Precambrian Shield parks are "dedicated to the people . for their benefit, and the Great Central Plains. On the east are old, eroded education and enjoyment" and must remain "unimpaired granite formations; on the west are the younger sedi­ for future generations." mentary rocks which underly the Canadian Prairies. Wood Buffalo National Park is a wilderness area of 17,300 square miles straddling the boundary between the The delta Alberta & N.W. Territories Northwest Territories and the Province of Alberta. It was The delta formed by the Peace and Athabasca Rivers is established in 1922 to protect the only remaining herd of one of the major deltas in Canada. During the time the wood bison. glaciers were melting, Lake Athabasca was far larger than The park's greatest length is 176 miles and it has an it is now. As the ice retreated farther and freed the north- average width of more than 100 miles. Two-thirds of its flowing Slave River, much of the Lake was drained. area is in northern Alberta. Silt carried by the large rivers filled in much of the area, creating the present delta of winding channels, shallow The park environment lakes and mud flats. Wood Buffalo contains examples of four types of topo­ graphical features common to the northern plains. These Plant life are erosion plateaus left by the glaciers, glaciated plains, Plants in the park are typical of the boreal forest zone of a delta formed by two major rivers, and the alluvial low­ Canada. White and black spruce, jack pine and tamarack lands of the rivers. In addition, there are two special types predominate. Black poplar is found along many water of area not common in Canada: the Salt Plains and the courses and aspen occurs in nearly pure stands on some Karst area of the Alberta Plateau. upland sites and in places where the spruce forest has been River. Little Buffalo Falls, reached on a side road just east destroyed by fire. Interspersed with the forests are numer­ in between. Eventually, through random chance, lightning Erosion plateaus of the warden station, and the canyon below the falls are ous bogs or muskegs. There are also patches of prairie will strike in the old and decayed spruce forest and fire will The Birch Mountains in the southwest and the Caribou another and very picturesque example. dominated by grasses and such showy flowering species as restart the cycle. This type of succession is illustrated by a Mountains in the west are erosion plateaus of the Creta­ shooting star, bluebell, goldenrod, aster, and gentian. The 1961 burn, eight miles west of the Carlsons Landing warden ceous Age, about 150 million years old. They are round to Karst Topography flora of the Salt Plains is composed of species that tolerate station, which is in the willow stage. Between Fitzgerald oval plateaus, 2,500 and 3,200 feet above sea level, rising This is the name given to land underlain by soft rocks, a high salinity. The flats of the Peace - Athabasca Delta and Hay Camp lies an older burn area in the willow-poplar I abruptly from almost flat plains. They are all that remain which are dissolved in places by sub-surface run-off and contain extensive cattail marshes and sedge meadows. stage. Fifteen miles north of Peace Point there is an area of deep sedimentary layers which covered the whole area result in collapsed areas or sinkholes, some of great size. There are extensive stands of white spruce forest along the of mature poplar with younger spruce which by now reach and which elsewhere were removed by erosion. The There is a large sinkhole, 120 feet across and 80 feet deep, banks of the Peace, Athabasca and Birch Rivers. Balsam almost to the poplar crowns. The pure spruce stands seen plateaus give rise to many fast streams, which have cut beside the Nyarling River Warden Station. Pine Lake, poplar also is plentiful in the area. east of Peace Point are an example of the climax stage deep, rugged gullies in the escarpments. with a depth of 70 feet, three miles long, results from the in this cycle of succession. joining of several very large sinkholes. Natural succession of plants and forests Glaciated plains The park shows all stages of plant and forest succession. Wildlife The major area of Wood Buffalo National Park is the The Salt Plains Most of the upland prairies, if not due to poor drain­ The buffalo, for whose protection the park was estab­ Alberta Plateau. This is a large, almost flat area which East of the escarpment, in an area drained by the Salt age, are due to forest fires, usually caused by summer lished, is the symbol alike of pioneer North America extends over a great part of this country, in and out of River, are the Salt Plains. These are flat, mostly open lightning. A recent burn is about two miles east of and man's waste of natural resources. When the killing of the park. It is between 700 and 1,100 feet above sea level, areas with many salty streams and salt springs. In some the Nyarling River Warden Station. This is a small area wood buffalo was prohibited in 1893 it was estimated that a land of poor drainage, meandering streams and many parts the ground has such a high salt content that there is burned in 1965 and so far has recovered only to the'grass there were fewer than 500 remaining, all in the region of shallow lakes and bogs. Throughout the plains eskers no plant life. In other areas there are plant communities and willow stage. Further east are areas of more advanced what is now the park. By 1922 their numbers had grown (long low ridges of sand and gravel) are thickly scattered. composed of salt-tolerant species only. Some of the salt recovery, perhaps 20 years old. These are marked by dense, to an estimated 1,500. The wood buffalo is a slightly larger, These eskers are composed of material that was carried springs leave deposits of salt around them through evap­ even-aged stands of young jackpine, which grow amidst darker, northern relative of the plains buffalo. by the glaciers and deposited along the course of streams oration of the water. This was the source of salt for In­ dead and fallen trees, providing fuel for further fires. Then, Shortly after the establishment of the park more than formed in the melting ice. dians, explorers and early settlers. An excellent view of if there is a fire, the cycle starts all over again. Other areas 6,600 plains bison were moved by rail and barge from The eastern edge of the Alberta Plateau is marked by the Salt Plains is gained from the top of the ski hill off the with other types of soil have a more complicated cycle. Buffalo National Park (now non-existent) at Wainwright, an escarpment with a maximum height of 200 feet. It is Parson Lake road. The side road from Highway 5 to the There the cycle is likely to be grassland, willow, willow- Alberta, to Wood Buffalo National Park. The two species noticeable on Highway 5 as a steep hill west of the Salt east side of the Salt River leads through the Salt Plains. poplar, poplar, poplar-spruce, spruce, if undisturbed by fire intermingled and now number 10,000 to 12,000. Below: Pine Lake Salt Plains Peace River on his way to the Pacific a few years later. How to get the most out of your visit Simon Fraser also travelled up the Peace River. He visited There are as yet no formal hiking trails, riding trails or the original Fort Chipewyan on Lake Athabasca, which interpretive programs. The park is best seen by car and was built in 1788 and is the oldest permanent settlement boat. One of the best drives is the Parson Lake road in Alberta. Salt River Settlement, downriver from Fort from Highway 5 to the Pine Lake road. This gives a Smith, was settled in the 1870's. The Athabasca, Peace view of the Salt Plains, the escarpment, sinkholes, sink­ and Slave Rivers, leading to the Mackenzie, were for years hole lakes and the Plateau forests. This road should not the highway to the north. The all-weather road to Fort be used in wet weather. Murdock Creek and many of Smith was not completed until 1966. the small lakes are good canoe country. The major Both the Northwest and the Hudson's Bay Companies rivers and the delta area provide attractive power boat were active in the area until the latter absorbed its rival.

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