Crete in Autumn

Naturetrek Tour Report 18 - 25 October 2016

Report compiled by David Tattersfield

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report Crete in Autumn

Tour participants: David Tattersfield (Tour leader) and 14 clients

Summary

Crete had experienced a long and hot dry summer, with no significant rain since April. Temperatures still remained high and many of the autumn flowers were still to emerge from the parched ground. Nevertheless, we did see everything we expected, except in much smaller quantity than usual. We had a great week exploring the wilder parts of western Crete and many aspects of its fascinating geology, history and archaeology. Our success was due, in no small part, to the enthusiasm, camaraderie and humour of the group - a great week, with old friends and new, good company and great food.

Day 1 Tuesday 18th October

It was cloudy and cool on arrival in Hania, where we met our driver and made the short journey to our comfortable hotel. With ample time remaining, we made the short trip out of town into the Theriso Gorge, which runs through wild scenery, at the foot of the White Mountains. We made a few brief stops in the narrow gorge, finding our first Cyclamen graecum subsp. candicum, wedged into tight crevices in the limestone. A significant proportion of Crete’s fascinating endemic plants are chasmophytes, adapted to life on the many cliffs and rocky habitats found throughout the island. We saw the leathery-leaved shrubby thistle Staehelina petiolata, Shrubby Mullein Verbascum arcturus and some nice flowering specimens of Crete’s most famous endemic, the Cretan Dittany Origanum dictamnus. In the bed of the gorge, the most prominent plant was a robust scrambling shrub Cionura erecta, a member of the Milkweed Family. It had a few clusters of creamy-white flowers and, typical of its family, its fruits were follicles, splitting lengthways to release its many seeds, each with a tuft of silky hairs, to aid dispersal by the wind. Although common here in the Theriso Gorge, it a rare plant, restricted to just a few rocky gorges on the island. We enjoyed a coffee break in the almost deserted Theriso village, visited the next-door shop to see some of the dried herbs on offer, and were back in Hania for 6.30pm. After a freshen-up, we walked down to old part of the city, near the harbour, for a delicious evening meal.

Day 2 Wednesday 19th October

We left Hania travelling westwards and, after shopping for lunch, we made our first stop along the coast at a sandy bay, backed by a small area of dunes, at Gerani. A typical coastal flora included Cottonweed Otanthus maritimus, Sea Holly Eryngium maritimum and the enormous spiny, grey hummocks of Centaurea spinosa. Sea Daffodil Pancratium maritimum dominated the dunes, mostly in fruit, but still with a few spectacular sweetly- scented, white flowers. South of Kolimbari, on the rocky hillsides above the pretty village of Marathocephala, we found plenty of Cyclamen graecum subsp. graecum, which, on Crete is only found here and on the Rhodopou peninsula to the north. There was an amazing amount of variation in its heavily patterned leaves. Also noteworthy were the tall flower spikes of Sea Squill, Drimia maritima rising from huge bulbs, that were, in places, pushing through the tarmac. It was convenient to have lunch where we were, with some useful shade from the pine trees.

After lunch, we continued westwards and descended steeply to the coast, an important area for vegetable production in the extensive poly-tunnels. Ancient Falasarna had been an important naval and trading port, in the Hellenistic period, from the 4th century BC until it was destroyed by the Romans in 69 BC. The site is still

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

undergoing excavation and we marvelled at detail of the masonry and the harbour wall, its most impressive feature, where the boat moorings can still be seen. In 365 AD, a huge earthquake raised the west coast of Crete by nine metres and left the harbour high and dry. We saw further evidence of this along the shore, where a raised beach and fossil cliff showed, clearly, the former sea level. Sea Spurge Euphorbia paralias was common on the small dunes and of special interest was the silver-leaved near-endemic Inula candida, growing on the cliffs. After a cloudless day and a pleasant 25°C, we were reluctant to leave. We returned to Hania for 6.15pm and, after doing our checklists, we sampled another taverna by the harbour.

Day 3 Thursday 20th October

On a cloudy morning, we drove south into the rocky landscape of the White Mountains. We stopped briefly to view the Askifou plateau, a wide fertile depression, below us. Areas such as this are known as poljes, from the Yugoslav word for field, and are formed by the prolonged solution-weathering of the limestone. The Askifou plateau is one of the largest of such features in Crete and now funnels the drainage, from the surrounding mountains, underground. Originally, rivers would have drained south, carving the Imbros and adjacent gorges, before these were captured by a lowering of the land surface. Round our feet, we noted spiny hummocks of Greek Spiny Spurge Euphorbia acanthothamnos and Spiny Chicory Cichorium spinosum, a popular vegetable eaten by the locals. A little way into the Imbros valley, we stopped at a taverna and sampled the local speciality of pancakes with cheese and honey, to help sustain us on our walk.

At the start of the gorge, we noted one or two Crocus laevigatus and the endemic Cyclamen graecum subsp. candicum, wedged into tight crevices in the boulders. We followed the bed of the gorge, as it dramatically deepened beneath towering cliffs, with Cretan Grayling flitting along beside us. On the cliffs were many of Crete’s endemic chasmophytes, including Dittany, Origanum dictamnus, Cretan Sainfoin, Ebenus cretica, the striking shrubby composite, Staehelina petiolata and the shrubby Bedstraw, Galium fruticosum. With some patient searching we located the endemic onion, Allium callimischon subsp. haemostictum, with delicate red-spotted flowers. During the latter stages of the latter stages of the walk the sun came out and it warmed up considerably. After several narrow sections and four hours of walking, we eventually emerged from the gorge and enjoyed much-needed refreshments at the Taverna Komitades. Rather than returning to Hania, we drove down to the coast for a quick look at Hora Sfakion, and had a delicious meal, overlooking the harbour, as the sun went down.

Day 4 Friday 21st October

We drove out to the rocky headland of the Akrotiri peninsula. Our first stop was at the Monastery of Agia Triada, where we visited the museum, wine cellars and its richly decorated church. We drove on, through a narrow gorge, to the Gouverneto Monastery and walked down the path to the Cave of St John, where some of us had close views of Chukar. A few of us continued down to the ruins of the Katholikou Monastery, in the bottom of a small gorge. The cliffs and walls of the building support some interesting plants, which included the shrubby Pink Dianthus fruticosus subsp. creticus, the silver-leaved Helichrysum orientale and Inula candida. After a hot climb back to the bus, we took the road through Souda to the hilltop archaeological sites of Aptera, where we ate our lunch. The extensive site was inhabited for over a thousand years through Minoan and Roman times and we marvelled at its massive cisterns, the recently-excavated Theatre and the Roman villa. The full strategic significance of the site was clear to us from the Turkish fort, overlooking the entrance to Souda Bay. It was a hot afternoon and we returned to Megala Horifa, the nearby village, where cold beers were most welcome. We

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Crete in Autumn Tour Report

finished off the afternoon with a visit to the Allied War Cemetery, at the head of the Souda Bay, and were back in Hania for 6.15pm.

Day 5 Saturday 22nd October

In the morning we spent an hour and a half at Agia Lake, where a natural freshwater spring has been dammed to create one of the finest wetland sites in Crete. Among the usual Coot and Moorhen were small numbers of Mallard, Ferruginous Duck and Northern Shoveler. Little Grebe dabbled around the margins and both Great Reed Warbler and Cetti’s Warbler were seen. Overhead, were Short-toed Snake Eagle, Western Marsh Harrier and lots of Common House Martins and Pallid Swifts. The normally strong-flowing spring was much reduced in volume, reflecting the severity of the summer drought.

We drove on, up the winding road into the White Mountains, stopping at Lakki for the view and finally the cafe, at Omalos, where we stopped for coffee. It was a beautiful sunny day, up here, 22°C and with no wind. In the nearby meadows were masses of Colchicum cretense, in various shades of pink, endemic to the higher mountains of Crete, and patches of Crocus laevigatus, showing the distinctive purple feathering on their outer tepals. We took an hour for lunch in the stony fields across the plateau, before going to the end of the road, to gaze down into the depths of the Samaria Gorge, still open to walkers, on account of the continuing dry weather. We followed the E4 footpath, that leads up to Gingilos, some of the group going quite some distance, before we reconvened at the lower cafe. Above our heads were trees of the endemic Elm relative Zelkova abelicea, covered in its winged fruit. After completing a circuit of the plateau, we returned to Hania for around 5.30pm.

Day 6 Sunday 23rd October

After following the New National Road westwards, we turned south to the village of Topolia. On the hillside, below a chapel, there was the beautiful sight of many plants of Cyclamen confusum, growing in lightly-shaded conditions under scrub. This plant resembles the familiar Cyclamen hederifolium but has some consistent morphological differences and a hexaploid chromosome number. Growing on the same site were numbers of sweetly-scented Narcissus obsoletus, the tiny pink Colchicum pusillum and a little onion Allium tardans. Higher up the Topolia Gorge, we stopped for drinks at the taverna, before climbing the steps to the impressive cave of Agia Sophia. Several plants of Sternbergia sicula were found, as well as a number of the chasmophytes we had seen previously, in the Imbros Gorge. A short distance along the road, we stopped briefly to see a prolific population of Cyclamen hederifolium subsp. hederifolium, the typical diploid species, under the deep shade of woodland. A few pale-blue tubular flowers remained on Campanula cretica.

Continuing south, we passed through woodlands of Oriental Plane, Platanus orientalis, and Chestnut, Castanea sativa, and extensive areas of colourful maquis, with Strawberry Tree Arbutus unedo and purple Erica manipuliflora. On reaching the coast at Stomio, we had lunch in the shade of Calabrian Pine Pinus halepensis subsp. brutia, near a very interesting beach made up of limestone breccias. The spiny phrygana here was dominated by the aromatic Cordiothymus capitatus, the aromatic Satureia Satureja thymbra and the endemic Verbascum spinosum, with the addition of many large Sea Squills. It was very hot, with a temperature of at least 30°C, and it was nice to find a little breeze, when we arrived at Elaphonisi. We walked across to the island for a little exploration and a dip in the sea, for some of us. The dominant tree was the large-fruited Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. macrocarpa, sometimes known as the Sea Juniper. There were many Sea Daffodils in the sand dunes, quite a few still flowering, Sea Spurge and

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

local rarities, such as the fleshy-leaved Silene succulenta and an endemic Sea Lavender Limonium elaphonesicum. Wall Lizards scurried around the rocks. (Despite notice-boards indicating that this is a species endemic to the island – Podarcis elaphonesiacum, further investigation suggests that it is just the widespread Cretan Wall Lizard Podarcis cretensis. Wall Lizard taxonomy is ongoing an opinions may change). All too soon, it was time to return to Hania for a quick run through checklists before dinner.

Day 7 Monday 24th October

For our final day, we had another opportunity to stretch our legs and enjoy the magnificent scenery of another of Crete’s gorges. We drove back to Topolia and followed a minor road to Sirikari, where a little chapel was the starting point for our walk. It was a little cooler today, with a pleasant, light breeze. At first, our descent was through Oak woodland, to join the main trail down the gorge. Cyclamen confusum, with flowers of a dark pink, was very common on the cliffs and abandoned terraces. The path descended to a dry riverbed, lined with Oleander and magnificent Oriental Plane trees. Sternbergia sicula was seen in flower on the cliffs and small clumps of Colchicum pusillum grew alongside the rocky path. After a steep climb we reached the hilltop village of Polyrinia, often considered to be one of the longest-inhabited settlements in Europe. We spent our time exploring its narrow streets and alleyways, the Roman cisterns and aqueducts and visiting a raki still and an olive-wood shop, where souvenirs were duly purchased. As an unexpected bonus, we found the tourist information centre was serving cold beers and home-made cakes, a wonderful way to end our last afternoon.

Day 8 Tuesday 25th October

After a week of perfect weather, we enjoyed a leisurely morning in Hania, visiting the market and exploring the rich mixture of architecture and archaeology in the streets surrounding the harbour. We met back at the hotel for last-minute packing and departed for the airport around midday.

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Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Species Lists

Plants (• = endemic or near endemic to Crete; ‡ = cultivated or naturalised) Latin Name Common Name Notes

LYCOPODIOPSIDA CLUBMOSSES

Selaginellaceae Lesser Clubmosss Family Selaginella denticulata Mediterranean Selaginella Damp shady places

EQUISETOPSIDA HORSETAILS

Equisetaceae Horsetail Family Equisetum ramosissimum Branched Horsetail Hedges. Agia Lake Equisetum telmateia Giant Horsetail Ditches and lake margin. Agia

PTEROPSIDA FERNS

Aspleniaceae Spleenwort Family Asplenium ceterach Rusty-back Fern Common on rocks Asplenium onopteris Acute-leaved Spleenwort Shaded cliffs Asplenium trichomanes subsp. quadrivalens Maidenhair Spleenwort Rock crevices

Dennstaedtiaceae Bracken Family Pteridium aquilinum Bracken Locally common

Dryopteridaceae Buckler-fern Family Dryopteris pallida Pale Buckler-fern Shady cliffs. Imbros Gorge

Polypodiaceae Polypody Family Polypodium cambricum Southern Polypody Shady cliffs. Imbros Gorge

Pteridaceae Maidenhair Fern Family Adiantum capillus-veneris Maidenhair Fern Damp shaded cliffs Anogramma leptophylla Jersey Fern Damp shaded earth Cheilanthes acrosticha Scented Cheilanthes Rock crevices

Woodsiaceae Lady-fern Family Athyrium filix-femina Lady-fern Shady cliffs. Imbros Gorge Cystopteris fragilis Brittle Bladder-fern Mountain rocks. Uncommon

PINOPSIDA CONIFERS

Araucariaceae Monkey-puzzle Family Araucaria heterophylla‡ Norfolk Island Pine Cultivated. Coastal

Cupressaceae Juniper Family Cupressus sempervirens forma. Cypress Common. Sea-level to treeline horizontalis Cupressus sempervirens forma. Funeral Cypress Cultivated sempervirens‡ Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. Sea Juniper Elaphonisi macrocarpa Juniperus oxycedrus subsp. oxycedrus Prickly Juniper Frequent. Mountains Juniperus phoenicea subsp. phoenicea Phoenicean Juniper Occasional. Lowland

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Pinaceae Pine Family Pinus halepensis subsp. brutia Calabrian Pine Frequent native tree Pinus pinea‡ Stone Pine Cultivated near coasts

GNETOPSIDA GNETOPHYTES

Ephedraceae Joint-pine Family Ephedra foeminea A Joint-pine Cliffs. Imbros Gorge

MAGNOLIOPSIDA FLOWERING PLANTS

MAGNOLIIDAE DICOTYLEDONS

Acanthaceae Bear's-breech Family Acanthus spinosus Spiny Bear's-breech Frequent

Aceraceae Maple Family Acer sempervirens Cretan Maple Common. Mountains

Aizoaceae Dewplant Family Carprobrotus edulis‡ Yellow Hottentot-fig Coastal alien

Anacardiaceae Sumach Family Pistacia lentiscus Mastic Tree Common in maquis Pistacia terebinthus Turpentine Tree Frequent in maquis and gorges Schinus molle‡ Californian Pepper Tree Cultivated

Apiaceae Carrot Family Crithmum maritimum Rock Samphire Maritime rocks Daucus carota Wild Carrot Frequent Eryngium campestre Field Eryngo Rocky fields Eryngium creticum Cretan Eryngo Roadsides. Waste places Eryngium maritimum Sea Holly Sand dunes Ferula communis Giant Fennel Common Foeniculum vulgare subsp. piperatum Fennel Common Smyrnium olusatrum Alexanders Aptera Smyrnium perfoliatum Perfoliate Alexanders Locally common

Apocyanaceae Periwinkle Family Nerium oleander Oleander Riverbeds. Planted on roadsides Plumeria rubra‡ Frangipani Cultivated

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix Ivy Common

Aristolochiaceae Birthwort Family Aristolochia sempervirens Evergreen Birthwort Frequent

Asclepiadaceae Milkweed Family Gomphocarpus physocarpus‡ Balloon Plant Polyrinia

Asteraceae Daisy Family Achillea cretica Cretan Sneezewort Cliffs. Katholikou

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Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Achillea ligustica Southern Yarrow Common Artemisia arborescens Shrubby Wormwood Aptera Bellis sylvestris Southern Daisy Common Calendula arvensis Field Marigold Common Carlina corymbosa subsp. graeca A Flat-topped Carline Thistle Rocky places Carlina gummifera Pine Thistle Phrygana and fallow fields Centaurea argentea subsp. A Knapweed Cliffs. Imbros Gorge macrothysana• Centaurea calcitrapa Red Star-thistle Occasional Centaurea idaea• Rock crevices in phrygana Centaurea pumilio Sand dunes. Falasarna and Elaphonisi Centaurea raphanina subsp. Common on rocks raphanina• Centaurea solstitialis Yellow Star-thistle Occasional Centaurea spinosa Spiny Knapweed North coast beaches Chondrilla juncea Rush Skeletonweed Sandy and waste places Cichorium intybus Chicory Roadsides Cichorium spinosum Spiny Chicory Common Crupina crupinastrum Crupina Widespread Cynara cornigera A wild Artichoke Rocky places Dittrichia graveolens Aromatic Inula Common Dittrichia viscosa Stink Aster Common Echinops spinosissimus Spiniest Globe Thistle Common Eupatorium adenophorum‡ A shrubby Hemp-agrimony Roadsides below Lakki Galactites tomentosa Galactites Common Helichrysum conglobatum Golden Cassidony Rocky places Helichrysum microphyllum A Curry Plant Rocky places in mountains Helichrysum orientale Eastern Everlastingflower Cliffs. Katholikou Inula candida subsp. candida• Coastal cliffs Inula crithmoides Golden Samphire Elaphonisi Lactuca acanthifolia Acanthus-leaved Lettuce Katholikou Gorge. Aegean area endemic Onopordum bracteatum subsp. creticum• Coastal sand and rocky places Otanthus maritimus Cottonweed Sand dunes Pallenis spinosa Spiny Golden-star Common Phagnalon graecum Shrubby Cudweed Rocks, cliffs and walls Picnomon acarna Yellow-spine Thistle Stony ground and roadsides Ptilostemon chamaepeuce Shrubby Ptilostemon Cliffs and rocky banks Pulicaria odora A Fleabane Maquis and woodland Rhagadiolus stellatus Star Hawkbit Common Scolymus hispanicus Spanish Oyster Plant Waste areas Silybum marianum Milk Thistle Common. Waste areas Sonchus asper Prickly Sow-thistle Waste areas Sonchus oleraceus Smooth Sow-thistle Waste areas Staehelina petiolata• Cliffs Xanthium spinosum‡ Spiny Cocklebur Alien weed Xanthium strumarium‡ Cocklebur Alien weed

Berberidaceae Barberry Family Berberis cretica Cretan Barberry Mountains

Bignoniaceae Jacaranda Family Jacaranda ovalifolia‡ Jacaranda Cultivated

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Boraginaceae Borage Family Echium angustifolium Narrow-leaved Bugloss Common near coast Echium italicum subsp. biebersteinii Pale Bugloss Common Heliotropium europaeum Heliotrope Common Symphytum creticum Cretan Comfrey Shady cliffs

Brassicacae Cabbage Family Aethionema saxatile subsp. creticum Burnt Candytuft Dry rocky places Aubrieta deltoidea Aubretia Omalos Brassica cretica subsp. cretica• Cretan Cabbage Cliffs Cakile maritima Sea Rocket Sand dunes Erysimum raulinii• A Treacle Mustard Imbros Gorge Lunaria annua subsp. pachyrhiza Honesty Occasional

Cactaceae Cactus family Opuntia ficus-indica‡ Prickly Pear Cultivated

Campanulaceae Bellflower Family Petromarula pinnata• Petromarula Common Campanula cretica• Topolia Gorge

Capparaceae Caper Family Capparis spinosa Caper Frequent on cliffs

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Lonicera etrusca Etruscan Honeysuckle Occasional

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Dianthus fruticosus subsp. creticus• A shrubby Pink Cliffs. Katholikou Dianthus xylorrhizus• Rocks. Polyrinia Petrorhagia dianthoides• A Tunic Flower Cliffs. Imbros Gorge Silene succulenta subsp. succulenta Elaphonisi Island

Chenopodiaceae Goosefoot Family Salsola kali Prickly Saltwort Sandy beaches

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Cistus creticus subsp. creticus Cretan Cistus Common Cistus monspeliensis Narrow-leaved Cistus Frequent in maqius Cistus parviflorus Few-flowered Cistus Local in maqius Cistus salvifolius Sage-leaved Cistus Locally common Fumana arabica Mediterannean Rock-rose Common. Rocky places Fumana thymifolia Thyme-leaved Rock-rose Common. Rocky places

Convolvulaceae Bindweed Family Calystegia soldanella Sea Bindweed Sand dunes Convolvulus althaeoides Mallow-leaved Bindweed Common Convolvulus oleifolius Olive-leaved Bindweed Dry rocky places Cuscuta epithymum Common Dodder Frequent parasite Ipomoea indica‡ A Morning Glory Cultivated

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Rosularia serrata

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Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Sedum amplexicaule subsp. Rocky places tenuifolium Sedum creticum var. monocarpicum• Cliffs Sedum praesidis• Rocky phrygana Sedum rubens Reddish Stonecrop Rocky places Sedum sediforme Mediterranean Stonecrop Rocky places Umbilicus horizontalis A Pennywort Shaded cliffs

Cucurbitaceae Cucumber Family Bryonia cretica White Bryony Frequent Ecballium elaterium Squirting Cucumber Waste places

Dipsacaceae Teasel Family Knautia integrifolia A Scabious Occasional in phrygana

Ericaceae Heather Family Arbutus unedo Strawberry Tree Locally common Erica arborea Tree Heather Locally common Erica manipuliflora Autumn Heather Locally common

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia acanthothamnos Greek Spiny Spurge Common Euphorbia chamaesyce Small Spurge Bare ground Euphorbia characias Large Mediterranean Spurge Common Euphorbia dendroides Tree Spurge Maritime cliffs Euphorbia marginata‡ A variegated spurge Cultivated Euphorbia paralias Sea Spurge Sand dunes Euphorbia peplis Petty Spurge Sandy beaches Euphorbia pulcherrima‡ Poinsettia Cultivated Euphorbia sultan-hassei• A Tree Spurge Cliffs. Imbros Gorge Mercurialis annua Annual Mercury Common Ricinus communis‡ Castor-oil-plant Frequent naturalised weed

Fabaceae Pea Family Anagyris foetida Bean Trefoil Scrub and waste areas Anthyllis hermanniae Herman's Kidney Vetch Occasional Anthyllis vulneraria subsp. rubriflora Kidney Vetch Common Astragalus angustifolius A Milk Vetch Common above Omalos Bituminaria bituminosa Pitch Trefoil Common Calycotome villosa Hairy Thorny Broom Common Ceratonia siliqua Carob Common Cercis siliquastrum‡ Judas Tree Cultivated Ebenus cretica• Shrubby Sainfoin Cliffs Genista acanthoclada Spiny Broom Common Lotus cytisoides Grey Bird's-foot Trefoil Coastal sand and rocks Medicago arborea‡ Tree Medick Cultivated and naturalised Medicago marina Sea Medick Sand dunes Ononis spinosa subsp. diacantha Spiny Rest-harrow Rocky places Robinia pseudoacacia‡ False Acacia Cultivated and naturalised Securigera globosa• A Crown Vetch Cliffs. Imbros Gorge Spartium junceum Spanish Broom Roadsides and maquis

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Fagaceae Beech Family Castanea sativa‡ Sweet Chestnut Cultivated and occasionally naturalised Quercus coccifera subsp. calliprinos Kermes Oak Common Quercus ilex Holm Oak Frequent Quercus ithaburensis subsp. Valonia Oak Cultivated macrolepis‡ Quercus pubescens Downy Oak Locally common

Hypericaceae St John's-wort Family Hypericum empetrifolium Crowberry-leaved St John's-wort Frequent Hypericum perforatum Perforate St John's-wort Rocky places Hypericum triquetrifolium Wavy-leaved St John's-wort Common

Juglandaceae Walnut Family Juglans regia‡ Walnut Cultivated

Lamiaceae Dead-nettle Family Ballota acetabulosa Garden Horehound Riverbeds near sea level Ballota nigra Black Horehound Waste places Ballota pseudodictamnus False Dittany Rocky phrygana Clinopodium alpinum subsp. alpinum Alpine Basil Thyme Rocky places Clinopodium creticum• Cretan Calamint Imbros Gorge Clinopodium vulgare Wild Basil Maquis and phrygana Lavandula stoechas French Lavender Local in maquis Marrubium vulgare White Horehound Waste places Micromeria juliana Micromeria Rocky places Micromeria nervosa Rocky places Origanum dictamnus• Cretan Dittany Cliffs Origanum microphyllum• Omalos plateau Phlomis cretica Cretan Jerusalem Sage Locally common Phlomis fruticosa Jerusalem Sage Common Prasium majus Prasium Common Salvia fruticosa Three-lobed Sage Common Salvia pomifera Mountain Sage Frequent Salvia verbenaca Wild Clary Common Satureja thymbra Satureia Maquis and phrygana Scutellaria sieberi• A Skullcap Cliffs and rocky banks Sideritis syriaca subsp. syriaca• Mountain Tea Mountains Teucrium alpestre• Cliffs and rocks Teucrium capitatum Felty Germander Rocky places Teucrium cuneifolium• Rare. Imbros Gorge Teucrium divaricatum Rocky places Thymbra capitata Mediterranean Thyme Common

Linaceae Flax Family Linum arboreum Shrubby Flax Cliffs in gorges

Malvaceae Mallow Family Abelmoschus esculentus‡ Okra Cultivated Hibiscus rosa-sinensis‡ Hibiscus Cultivated Lavatera arborea Tree Mallow Coast. Hania Lavatera bryonifolia Bryony-leaved Mallow Common Malva sylvestris Common Mallow Common

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Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Meliaceae Mahogany Family Melia azedarach‡ Persian lilac Cultivated

Mimosaceae Acacia Family Acacia retinoides‡ Swamp Wattle Cultivated

Moraceae Mulberry Family Ficus carica Fig Frequent Morus alba‡ White Mulberry Cultivated

Myrtaceae Myrtle Family Myrtus communis Common Myrtle Occasional in maqiis

Nyctaginaceae Bougainvillea Family Bougainvillea glabra‡ Bougainvillea Cultivated

Oleaceae Olive Family Olea europaea subsp. oleaster Wild Olive Occasional in phrygana Phillyrea latifolia Mock Privet Occasional in maquis

Orobanchaceae Broomrape Family Orobanche sp. A Broomrape Occasional

Oxalidaceae Wood-sorrel Family Oxalis pes-caprae‡ Bermuda Buttercup Common

Papaveraceae Poppy Family Glaucium flavum Yellow Horned-poppy Coast

Phytolaccaceae Pokeweed Family Phytolacca americana‡ American Pokeweed Naturalised

Pittosporaceae Pittosporum Family Pittosporum tobira‡ Cultivated

Platanaceae Plane Family Platanus orientalis Oriental Plane River valleys

Plumbagiaceae Thrift Family Limonium elaphonisicum• A Sea-lavender West coast Limonium frederici A Sea-lavender Falasarna. Southern Aegean endemic Limonium graecum A Sea-lavender Falasarna

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala myrtifolia‡ Myrtle-leaved Milkwort Cultivated

Polygonaceae Dock Family Persicaria salicifolia Willow-leaved Persicaria Agia Lake Polygomum equisetiforme Horsetail Knotgrass Waste areas Polygonum maritimum Sea Knotgrass Coastal sands Rumex bucephalophorus Bull's Head Dock Common

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Primulaceae Primrose Family Cyclamen confusum• Topolia and Sirikari Cyclamen graecum subsp. graecum Greek Sowbread Spilia and Rodopos Cyclamen graecum subsp. candicum• Imbros and White Mountains Cyclamen hederifolium subsp. Ivy-leaved Sowbread South and west of Topolia hederifolium Samolus valerandi Brookweed Wet cliff. Falasarna

Punicaceae Pomegranate Family Punica granatum ‡ Pomegranate Cultivated

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Clematis cirrhosa Virgin's Bower Frequent Delphinium staphisagria Lice Bane Theriso Gorge. Imbros Gorge Ranunculus bullatus Locally common Ranunculus creticus Cretan Buttercup Shaded cliffs Ranunculus cytheraeus Local

Rhamnaceae Buckthorn Family Rhamnus lycioides subsp. oleoides A Buckthorn Frequent in phrygana

Rosaceae Rose Family Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn Frequent Eriobotrya japonica‡ Japanese Loquat Cultivated Poterium sanguisorba subsp. Salad Burnet Frequent verrucosa Prunus dulcis‡ Almond Cultivated Prunus prostrata Rock Cherry Omalos Pyracantha coccinea‡ Firethorn Cultivated Pyrus spinosa Wild Pear Common Rubus sanctus A Bramble Common Sarcopoterium spinosum Thorny Burnet Common

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Galium fruticosum• A shrubby Bedstraw Cliffs Rubia peregrina Wild Madder Common

Rutaceae Rue Family Citrus limon‡ Lemon Cultivated Citrus sinensis‡ Orange Cultivated Ruta chalepensis subsp. chalepensis Fringed Rue Occasional

Salicaceae Willow Family Populus alba‡ White Poplar Common Salix alba‡ White Willow

Sapindacaeae Soapberry Family Cardiospermum halicacabum‡ Balloon Vine Cultivated

Santalaceae Bastard-toadflax Family Osyris alba Osyris Frequent

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Saxifragaceae Saxifrage Family Saxifraga rotundifolia subsp. Chrysosplenium-leaved Saxifrage Locally common chrysospleniifolia

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Cymbalaria microcalyx Rocks. Falasarna Cymbalaria muralis Creeping Toadflax Walls. Hania Kickxia elatine subsp. sieberi Sharp-leaved Fluellen Agia Lake Scrophularia heterophylla Falasarna headland Scrophularia lucida Shining Figwort Frequent Scrophularia peregrina Nettle-leaved Figwort Common. Imbros Gorge Verbascum arcturus • Shrubby Mullein Cliffs and walls Verbascum macrurum Common Verbascum sinuatum Wavy-leaved Mullein Common Verbascum spinosum• Spiny Mullein Common

Simaroubaceae Tree-of-heaven Family Ailanthus altissima‡ Tree-of-heaven Naturalised

Solanaceae Nightshade Family Cestrum nocturnum‡ Night-blooming Jasmine Cultivated. Hotel Halepa Datura stramonium‡ Thornapple Naturalised Hyoscyamus albus Henbane Weedy places and walls. Hania Lycium barbarum Duke of Argyll's Tea Plant Naturalised near the coast Mandragora autumnalis Mandrake Frequent Nicotiana glauca‡ Shrubby Tobacco Naturalised Solanum nigrum Black Nightshade Weedy places Solanum villosum Hairy Nightshade Damp places Withania somnifera‡ Withania Aptera

Styracaceae Storax Family Styrax officinalis Storax Sirikari Gorge

Tamaricaceae Tamarisk Family Tamarix parviflora A Tamarisk Coasts

Thymelaeaceae Mezereon Family Daphne sericea A Daphne Locally common in mountains Thymelaea hirsuta Hairy Thymelaea Rocky places near the sea

Ulmaceae Elm Family Celtis tournefortii Oriental Hackberry Imbros Gorge Zelkova abelicea• Cretan Zelkova Omalos plateau

Urticaceae Nettle Family Parietaria judaica Pellitory-of-the-wall Rocks and walls

Valerianaceae Valerian Family Valeriana asarifolia• A Valerian Imbros Gorge

Verbenaceae Vervain Family Lantana camara‡ Lantana Cultivated Lippia nodiflora Damp meadow. Souda

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Verbena officinalis Vervain Frequent. Waste areas Vitex agnus-castus Chaste Tree Gorge and stream-beds

Vitaceae Vine Family Vitis vinifera subsp. sylvestris Wild Vine Occasional

Zygophyllaceae Caltrop Family Tribulus terrestris Maltese Cross Waste places

LILIIDAE MONOCOTYLEDONS

Amaryllidaceae Daffodil Family Allium ameloprasum Wild Leek Occasional Allium bourgeaui subsp. creticum• Topolia Gorge Allium callimischon subsp. Imbros Gorge and Omalos haemostictum Allium chamaespathum Occasional Allium circinnatum subsp. circinnatum• Akrotiri Allium suhirsutum Frequent Allium tardans• Frequent Narcissus obsoletus Late Daffodil Locally common Pancratium maritimum Sea Daffodil Sand dunes Sternbergia greuteriana• Sirikari Sternbergia lutea Common Sternbergia Cultivated Sternbergia sicula Slender Sternbergia Locally common

Araceae Arum Family Arisarum vulgare Friar's Cowl Common Arum concinnatum Common Biarum davisii subsp. davisii• Local

Asparagaceae Asparagus Family Agave americana‡ Centuryplant Cultivated and naturalised Asparagus aphyllus subsp. orientalis Leafless Asparagus Common Drimia maritima Sea Squill Common Leopoldia comosa Tassel Hyacinth Imbros Gorge Ornithogalum narbonense Southern Star-of-Bethlehem Topolia Prospero autumnale Autumn Squill Common Ruscus aculeatus Butcher's-broom Frequent in shade

Colchicaceae Meadow Saffron Family Colchicum cretense• Omalos Colchicum pusillum Frequent at low elevations

Cyperaceae Sedge Family Cyperus capitatus Sand Galingale Sand dunes

Dioscoreaceae Yam Family Tamus communis Black Bryony Woodland and scrub

Iridaceae Iris Family Crocus laevigatus Imbros and Omalos

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

Latin Name Common Name Notes

Juncaceae Rush Family Juncus acutus Sharp Rush Wet places Juncus littoralis Shore Rush Elaphonisi

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Spiranthes spiralis Autumn Lady's-tresses Local. Phrygana

Poaceae Grass Family Arundo donax‡ Giant Reed Common Ammophila arenaria Marram Grass Sand dunes Briza minor Lesser Quaking-grass Frequent Catapodium rigidum Fern Grass Frequent Elytrigia juncea Sand Couch Sand dunes Melica ciliata Hairy Melick Imbros Gorge Phragmites australis Common Reed Marshes and riverbanks Sesleria doerfleri• Imbros Gorge

Posidoniaceae Neptune-grass Family Posidonia oceanica Neptune-grass Marine

Smilacaceae Smilax Family Smilax aspera Smilax Common

Typhaceae Reedmace Family Typha domingensis Southern Reedmace Agia Lake

Xanthorrhoeaceae Asphodel Family Asphodeline lutea Yellow Asphodel Common Asphodelus ramosus Branched Asphodel Common

Zosteraceae Eelgrass Family Zostera marina Eelgrass Marine

Birds (=recorded but not counted; H = heard only) October Common name Latin name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 1 Chukar Alectoris chukar  2 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos  3 Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata  4 Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca  5 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis  6 Little Egret Egretta garzetta   7 Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus    8 Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus  9 Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus  10 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo    11 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus  12 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus  13 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra  14 Yellow-legged Gull Larus michahellis    15 Rock Dove / Feral Pigeon Columba livia         16 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto        

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

October Common name Latin name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 17 Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis  18 European Roller Coraciasg garrulus  19 Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius   20 Hooded Crow Corvus cornix         21 Northern Raven Corvus corax       22 Great Tit Parus major   23 Eurasian Crag Martin Ptyonoprogne rupestris      24 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum   25 Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti  26 Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus  27 Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala         28 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes  29 Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris  30 Common Blackbird Turdus merula       31 Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus  32 European Robin Erithacus rubecula   33 European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola  34 Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius    35 Italian Sparrow Passer italiae         36 Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea  37 White Wagtail Motacilla alba    38 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs      39 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis       40 Cirl Bunting Emberiza cirlus 

Mammals (D = Dead) 1 Kri-kri Capra hircus cretensis  2 Eastern Hedgehog Erinaceus concolor D D 3 Cretan Badger Meles meles subsp. arcalus D 4 Cretan Beech Marten Martes foina subsp. bunites D D  5 Weasel Mustela nivalis galinthias   Reptiles 1 Balkan Green Lizard Lacerta trilineata  2 Cretan Wall Lizard Podarcis cretensis        3 Balkan Terrapin Mauremys rivulata 

Amphibians 1 American Bullfrog Rana catesbeiana H

Butterflies 1 Swallowtail Papilio machaon  2 Small White Artogeia rapae      3 Clouded Yellow Colias crocea     4 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus   5 Common Blue Polyommatus icarus  6 Brown Argus Aricia agestis   7 Red Admiral Vanessa atalanta        8 Painted Lady Vanessa cardui      

Crete in Autumn Tour Report

October Common name Latin name 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 9 Cardinal Argynnis pandora  10 Cretan Grayling Hipparchia cretica     11 Southern Speckled Wood Pararge aegeria aegeria    12 Wall Brown Lasiommata megera    13 Mediterranean Skipper Gegenes nostradamus 

Moths (E = evidence of) 1 Hummingbird Hawkmoth Macroglossum stellatarum   2 Pine Processionary Moth Thaumetopoea pityocampa E

Dragonflies 1 Red-veined Darter Sympetrum fonscolombei  2 Common Darter Sympetrum striolatum  3 Blue Emperor Anax imperator  4 Scarlet Darter Crocothemis erythraea   

Other Insects 1 Violet Carpenter Bee Xylocopa violacea    2 Oriental Hornet Vespa orientalis  3 European Beewolf Philanthus triangulum  4 Praying Mantis Mantis religiosa  5 Nosed Grasshopper Acrida ungarica  6 Blue-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda caerulescens  7 Red-winged Grasshopper Oedipoda germanica  8 A Bug Lygaeus saxatilis  

Molluscs 1 Cretan Door Snail Albinaria inflata      