Northern Peru

Wildlife of the Andes

A Greentours Reconnaissance Report

23rd November - 11th December 2014

by Chris Gardner

NB - the many cacti species have not been identified yet – when I reach the UK next (January) I can do this easily enough. Also butterfly list is far from complete – I had no books with me and had to rely on photos I took.

Day 1 23rd November To Tarapoto

I flew up from Santiago and arrived in the warm lowlands of north-east Peru, met my transport and arrived at the comfortable hotel and enjoyed a plate of ceviche for dinner.

Day 2 24th November La Escalera and Pumarinri

After a bit of a transport delay we were off early driving into the rugged pre-montane hills south of Tarapoto, which were clothed in forest. We stopped past the tunnel and spent some time along the road. As soon as we alighted the rough calls of Andean Cock-of-the-rock could be heard and we soon located at least three males. A female flew out and across the road with a male in pursuit. We had hoped to find Lanceolated Monklet but no luck this time. Moving along the road there were three lovely Gilded Barbets, a pair of Green-backed Trogons, Black-faced Dacnis, Blue-fronted Lancebill, Cobalt-winged Parakeets, Thick-billed Euphonias, Bay-headed and Silver-beaked Tanagers (and briefly Dotted Tanagers), elegant Swallow-tailed Kites sailed out across the slopes and a rare Blackish Pewee was seen. Added to this odd morph flew past and the impressive day-flying moth Urania fulgens was common.

We drove down a bit further a spent time in a private area of scrub and forest where a large hummingbird feeding station had been set up. There were dozens of birds zipping about and posing on branches with Koepcke’s Hermit, the dazzling Golden-tailed Sapphire, White- necked Jacobin, Many-spotted Hummingbird, Gould’s Jewel-front and the sumptuous Black- throated Brilliant.

I casually mentioned if there were any poison frogs here and very quickly my guide Henry found a stunning Three-striped Poison Frog, a large species with three broad yellow-green stripes down its back. Walking away from the feeders Fiery-crowned Manakin could be heard and with some persistence we got good views of this lovely species as well as Violaceous Jay.

Driving back up again we tried once more for the elusive monklet with the same result. Just past the tunnel a track headed into the forest and here we searched the bromeliads eventually finding a little jewel of frog. As we walked back down a second species a dazzling orange litle frog jumped out and we pursued it until we could get a good look. From here we drove on to the pleasant surrounds of the lodge, finding the Comb Duck pond duckless on the way. I went out again in the afternoon and the forest area had a good number of butterflies with as well as three species of poison frog. This time the Three-banded was joined by a close relative of and also another genus was represented too. Ids to come! Blue-crowned Manakins were moving about and on the fruit in the garden three Saddle-backed Tamarins had arrived to feed alongside some beautiful Starry Cracker butterflies. Along the road we found a few more birds with Chestnut-eared Aracari and Crimson-crested Woodpecker the standout species.

I took a night walk and found no fewer than seven large adult Three-striped Poison Frogs scattered along the trail roosting on top of leaves. There was also a web-throwing spider, a fine hawkmoth and a roosting Red Cracker butterfly.

Day 3 25th November Local waterfall & Huallago River

The morning walk was an invertebrate extravaganza with a huge array of different species as well a couple of truly bizarre basket-like fungi, one of which was surrounding what we took to be its’ host chrysalid and the other hanging from a leaf. The insects built up a steady head of steam with some huge flighty red-winged locusts, white-winged monkey hoppers, a juvenile shield mantis and a wonderful bright red stick insect. Butterflies came more and more to the fore and in the end the trail was superb for the diversity encountered. An orange and black Stalactis calliope was feeding intently on some white flowers and there were similarly coloured heliconids about and also bluish day-flying moth, which settled beneath leaves and hung down. A variety of riodinids were seen from yellowish Euselasia gelanor, bright orange Emesis fatimella to red-banded Aulestes Swordtails near the beautiful waterfall itself where it was joined by a couple of large skippers and a stunning Dynamine postverta with metallic blue upperwings and exquisitely marked underwings and which seemed quite happy perching on me taking my now abundant sweat. Another lovely species the lycaenid Ocaria thales was also focused on feeding on our sweaty clothes as we walked back, also seeing a partially transparent tigerwing, bright red Mesene phareus and huge Morpho achilles which settled in good view (wings close of course). A small mixed flock of birds had among it Purple Honeycreeper and dazzling Paradise Tanagers.

In the afternoon my guide Jordi and I took a short boat ride across the swirling muddy Rio Huallago and entered the forest passing through a small farm with bananas, cassava, etc where countless grasshoppers were pinging from the grass. Butterflies were again active and abundant with many Mexican Cicadians, a peculiar dull blue Hamadryas sp, heliconids, hesperids, and then a cryptically marked Catoblepia xanthicles. Our main target though was a different colour morph of the dazzling jewel that is Ranitomeya imitator (a species which as it name suggests takes on a variety of forms). With some determined searching we found a fabulous individual and got some good photos. This morph was completely different to those on the other side of the river and to the uninitiated seemed a separate species with red- orange colouration and large black blotches rather than yellow with black spots on the lodge side of the river. This is one of the reasons poison frogs are so perplexing and complex in this corner of Peru where at least ten species occur, but many times more morphs of these species! A second young one was seen soon after and then a black and yellow Thoas Swallowtail followed by a mating pair of the blue day-flying moths. To round things off there was a peculiar stick-grasshopper and a splendid individual of the Three-striped Poison Frog. Our boatman had collected some ripe coconuts and on our return he expertly opened them and we quenched our thirst with very fresh coconut milk.

Day 4 26th November To Abra Patricio

Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper was calling loudly from the tree next to my room at first light and I was on my way not long after. Returning first to Tarapoto and seeing Speckled Chachalacas and Chestnut-eared Aracari along the way we turning west and drove towards the Alto Mayo hills. We stopped by a bridge spanning a deep, narrow gorge perched on the ledges of which, were thirty of so Oilbirds, including some with eggs and occasionally one would fly out to show just how large these peculiar nightjars are. Given the decent level of ambient light it was a very convenient location for this species. Further on we stopped at a private property with an area of forest in which was an orchid garden that contained many species from the surrounding area including some spectacular Cattleya/Laelia. There was also a hummingbird feeding station and star attraction here was the stunning Rufous-crested Coquette, and both male and female put in good appearances. Along with these were several Sparkling Violetears, Golden-tailed Sapphires, Grey Sabrewing, Black-throated Mango and both Black-throated and Long-tailed Hermits.

From here we drove onto the mountains (on the tour we would stop in the afternoon at a different feeding station where Cinereous and Little Tinamou, Rufous-breasted Wood-Quail and both Green-fronted and Blue-fronted Lancebills are seen – sadly they were closed today!). The hills were clothed in spectacular cloudforest – a vital protected area – and we drove steadily up past wonderful rugged views to the comfortable accommodation at Abra Patricio. Almost as soon as I’d arrived then a habituated Tayra appeared and trotted over to the manager for his banana – giving amazing views of this usually fast-moving mammal. His son appeared later (the Tayra’s) but he was more nervous. At the hummingbird feeders were many Chestnut-breasted Coronets, together with White-bellied Woodstar, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Collared and Bronzy Inca and then the incredible Sword-billed Hummingbird put in an appearance. Masked Flowerpiecer was busy in the background, Inca Jays were noisy and obvious and well-named Great Thrushes were common.

I took an afternoon walk into the forest to sample to amazing verdance finding a few orchids in flowers among the luxuriance of tree ferns, bamboo and bromeliad laden trees. Some wonderful moths started to appear by the lights…

Day 5 27th November Abra Patricio

…and by morning the walls were plastered with hundreds of moths of at least fifty species!

Breakfast was early and I was off with Roberto my guide by 6am, entering a somewhat misty forest where activity was slow to begin with, but nonetheless we found a fine Lineated Satyr (Parataygetis sp) and then saw Rufous Spinetails, had a glimpse of Rusty-tinged Antpitta and saw Grey-breasted Wood-wren and Russet-crowned Warbler. However, as these sessions invariably do activity suddenly picked up with a bit of blue sky and we lucked out on a fantastic tanager flock in a clearing where the bewildering array of colours belonged to Flame-faced, Metallic green, Beryl-spangled, Blue-and-black and Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers, accompanied by Capped Conebill, Masked Flowerpiercer, Black-capped Hemispingus, Grey-hooded Bush-tanager, Inca Flycatcher and Spectacled Redstart. Just as we were about to depart two dazzling Red-hooded Tanagers arrived along with a Black-hooded Mountain Tanager and Golden-olive Woodpecker. Butterflies were now quite abundant with some lovely small morphos that flashed intermittent white and blue as they flew. Birdlife continued to show and we saw Chestnut-breasted and Sharp’s Wrens, Cinnamon and Flavescent Flycatchers and then came upon another mixed flock this time very different birds including Streaked Tufted-cheek, Olive-backed and Montane Woodcreepers (and a fly past from a Strong-billed Woodcreeper), a Green-and-black Fruiteater and best of all a pair of Pearled Treerunners that had a nest among the thick moss of a bough and flew back and forth bring food and trilling sweetly on arrival at the nest. The landscape was clear now and we could see the lush forested hills and trees festooned with red bromeliads and perched upon one a Smoke-coloured Pewee was perched two metres above a Roadside Hawk, keeping his enemy to close to catch him. A male Barred Becard provided the final interest of a productive morning.

The afternoon was no less interesting with a peculiar gathering of butterflies around the cabins, seemingly attracted to the concrete (for salt?) and these included various satyrs such as Corades medeba, Lasiophila sp and Limanopoda obseleta (probably the commonest butterfly in the forest) as well as a stunning purple-spotted peacock. Long-tailed Sylphs, Amethyst-throated Sunangel and Emerald-bellied Puffleg had arrived at the hummingbird feeders and walking down to the road we saw the lovely Yellow-scarfed Tanager, as well as Saffron-crowned and Grass-green Tanagers and then a couple of Green-and-black Fruiteaters. Along the road were more of the latter and then a mix of Blue-capped Tanagers and Yellow-breasted Brush-finch with a dainty little male Speckle-chested Piculet and two Andean Guans for good measure. Walking down to the Long-whiskered Owlet site we picked up Silver-backed Tanager, Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush, a male Masked Trogon and several stunning blue and white Mesosemia loruhama posing well on leaves before they roosted (underneath the leaves). Then as dusk was settling and we set about calling in the owlet (it is quite impossible to see this bird any other way) a movement in the tree revealed two Night Monkeys and we had great views of these moving swiftly through the branches, stopping occasionally to feed. There was a good initial response from the owlet but as we waited amidst many twinkling fireflies the bird never arrived. Arriving back at the lodge there was the compensation of a Rufous-banded Owl at close quarters.

Day 6 28th November Abra Patricio

As I waited to depart Pancho the habituated Tayra appeared for his banana breakfast and although used to his feeder he was nonetheless cautious. It was another great chance to see such a sleek mammal so easily. [It should be mentioned that usually Black Agouti is seen easily here, but they forgot to put their food out while I was there!]. Rufous-browed Peppershrike also nearby but much as yesterday the initial walk into the forest was quiet, but also just as yesterday things got going after an hour with first three Masked Trogons, then a couple of Striped Treehunters. And then we we’d hit a hotspot for flocks, with it seems two flock coinciding in one valley. Many of yesterday’s tanagers were present but with them were Black-eared and Oleaginous Hemispingus, a stunning Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Olive-backed Woodcreeper, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet, White-sided Flowerpiercer and the scarce Olive Flycatcher. We watched the valley for a while with new species appearing every so often including Golden-bellied Grosbeak. Walking on there were one or two bluish glasswings (though they never seem to settle here), a pair of Speckle-faced Parrots and then a Rufous-vented Tapaculo shot out of its’ nest-hole. Another of the latter was seen further along and then we had lovely views of the endemic Lulu’s (or Johnson’s) Tody-tyrant. Reaching the scrubby slope near the car park another smorgasbord of tanagers dazzled with the very smart Yellow-scarfed joined by shiny Blue-and-black and Silver- backed. After lunch I photographed some of the fine orchids in the small orchid garden (all of which had been collected during trail cutting in the reserve).

The plan for the afternoon (given I had no transport to visit the regular site for Lyre-tailed Nightjar or Royal Sunangel – a gorgeous hummer, which we would do on tour) was another crack at the very rare Long-whiskered Owlet, this time descending even further into the valley to avoid disturbing last night’s bird a second time. Once again we saw Masked Trogon, Slaty-backed Nightingale-thrush, various tanagers and the delightful Lulu’s Tody-tyrant before entering a narrower rockier defile, filled with lush moss forest. It has to said the trail was not for the faint-hearted at times, with wellies to squelch through bogs and cross streams a necessity, slippery rocks and plentiful horseflies. And without a machete-wielding Roberto we wouldn’t have gotten anywhere as some trail clearance was needed. Eventually we arrived at the spot and at dusk we played the call. The owl responded quickly in ten minutes or so the tiny Long-whiskered Owlet had arrived hooting softly and even before it was fully dark we were on our way back, well satisfied with a two-minute look at one of the world’s least seen and rare birds. On the tour we would only attempt the location tried on day 6, not this one!

Day 7 29th November Huembo, Kuelap & Gotca

Although I’d seen some fine hummingbirds there was ne above all others I wanted to see and at the little reserve at Huembo this was easy. The male is quite exquisite with its long retrices tipped by broad spatules and somehow the whole ensemble doesn’t prevent him from flying perfectly well. However, the rub was he only turned up every ten or fifteen minutes for a minute or so. During the intervals I had good views of Emerald Toucanet, which was calling loudly and twitching from side to side. Yellow-breasted Brush-finch and Slate-throated Redstart came by too and besides the showy spatuletail there was a constant buzz of Sparkling Violet-ears, Chestnut-breasted Coronets and White-bellied Hummingbirds. Two hours just wasn’t enough but I had to press on and we drove down and then along a remarkable steep-sided valley with eroded sandstone cliffs clothed in an unusual mixture of bromeliad laden deciduous trees and many branched upright cacti. Larger bromeliads and agaves were dotted throughout. This vegetation changed quickly again once we began to drive up towards the fortress city of Kuelap, with some interesting flora appearing such as lupins and various salvias and then many bright red Bomarea sp.

After lunch I reached the ruins and they were splendid, well worth the effort to reach with many circular stone buildings and commanding views out across the countryside. Inside the massive fortress walls the many trees were plastered with large bright red or green bromeliads and there were drifts of a yellow Coreopsis sp. bird life was quite with Black- throated Flowerpiercer and Golden-bellied Grosbeak, but since it was a weekend the site was well visited. The beautiful tubular pink flowers of Passiflora mollissima were strung on pathside shrubs and there were pretty scarlet Salvia too. A bit of mist added to the atmosphere as clouds swept up the valley every now and then, but at three thousand metres the citadel rose above them.

Driving back down we retraced the route, seeing Torrent Duck on the way – what a stunning bird – and then arrived at the quite superbly positioned Gotca Hotel ringed by towering cliffs from which tumbled a long waterfall.

Day 8 30th November To Tucume via Jaen

Road construction and a lack of time meant I had to forgo the intended route via Leymebamba and Cajamarca (which se would do on the tour), but this meant I still had the chance to check some additional areas and an alternative route. As it turned out it was a fascinating botanical day with some new birds thrown in. Leaving the pleasant environs of Gocta we drove along the Maranon River stopping for some impressive bromeliads with branched inflorescences hanging out from the cliffs. And then fishing from a mid-stream boulder was a Fasciated Tiger Heron. We proceeded through deep gorges with greenery and trees that reminded me a lot of Sichuan and this was reinforced when we reached a large open tract of rice terraces. Beside one was a colony of Cattle Egrets. Then we crossed into the Utcubamba watershed and the rain began. This scuppered our intended visit to Jaen’s dry forest area, but the tour will run in the dry season and we will reach it then and it is an area with many different birds. However, there was similar vegetation around and a chance bush stop revealed an astonishing number of large red millipedes. They were rambling around an area of scrub with a good number of extraordinary Melocactus peruvianus many with their incredible topknots of rusty-red and white. There were other cacti species too and I made a stop for a good area of these with some with branched heads, some columnar species and also a branched species with remarkable furry inflorescences that formed large patches on the stems from which creamy-white flowers emerged. There were also some more amazing Melocactus peruviana as well as wild Bourganvillea. Long-tailed Mockingbird and Yellow- tailed Oriole were about in the scrub.

For the tour we would go now further, instead spending the day around Jaen and returning to Gocta. The rest of the journey to Tucume is included only for completeness.

[In the afternoon we drove out the extensive cacti fields to a low, dry pass where Andean Condors can sometimes be seen, but not today. Descending on the greener Pacific side there were some attractive plants (despite the ravaging goats) and a Spot-throated Hummingbird before we reached the flat and dull lowlands. All that remained was to drive to Tucume and my hotel where Pale-legged Hornero was poking around in the turf on arrival. At least two pairs had their large round mud nests (hornero is Spanish for oven, i.e. clay oven) up in the trees and on my short wander about there were several West Peruvian Doves and a dazzling little Vermillion Flycatcher who perched perfectly in the late afternoon light and allowed his picture to be taken.

Day 9 1st December Pomac and to Chaparri

I was away early to the dry forests of Pomac where I found four Burrowing Owls standing beside a dry bank and we drove in followed by three Variable Hawks. A trail led through the mataral forest and it was bird rich throughout with first Necklaced Spinetail and then the gorgeous Scarlet-backed Woodpecker as Amazilia Hummingbirds fed on flowers and Tawny- crowned Pygmy-tyrant hopped among the tangles. As the walk progressed there were chunky Cinereous Finches, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Fasciated Wrens poking their beaks into holes and handsome Collared Antshrikes. Walking along as section of the main road back to the car I had great views of Rufous Flycatcher, then Rufous-browed Peppershrike, White-tailed Jay and Saffron Finch before a dainty little Peruvian Pygmy Owl flew out and perched conveniently above me. Leaving the reserve a large Tegu lizard scuttled across the path and a grey Guayaquil Squirrel scampered up and over the road via linking tree branches. Then more birds held up proceedings with Baird’s Flycatcher and great views of Golden-olive Woodpecker.]

We drove on to Chiclayo and then turned off for the coast reaching an area of arid cliffs. Part of the cliff tops were caked in thousands of Peruvian Pelicans, Blue-footed and Peruvian Boobies and I spent a captivated hour photographing them at close quarters, watching great squadrons of pelicans returning from fishing and somehow preening themselves with beaks big enough to swallow the much smaller boobies around them. A number of Turkey Vultures looked on perhaps hoping for a crash landing!

Heading inland we reached areas with large angular-stemmed cacti and then bumped our way onto the valuable dry forest reserve at Chaparri. It was one of those places that instantly delivered great wildlife. As I sat for lunch a dainty Sechuran Fox trotted in a lay down curled up next to the table as a female Collared Peccary ambled through the dining area with a piglet in tow. Two (globally rare) White-winged Guans then crept in and up to the food table from where they tried to steal bananas. White-tailed Jay also came for a look as White- headed Brush-finch mooched about in the shrubs, two Red-masked Parakeets squawked in a tree and a Tumbes Sparrow came for a drink. A late afternoon walk produced good views of several White-tailed Deer, more Collared Peccaries, and even an old Spectacled Bear – although he was in an enclosure. The birds continued to shine with the lovely Elegant Crescentchest, the rich yellows of Golden-bellied Grosbeak and White-edged Oriole, White- tailed Jay, Golden-olive Woodpecker, the diminutive Short-tailed Woodstar and then an Andean Tinamou as we neared the lodge. A movement in the leaves revealed two female Collared Antshrikes locked in combat and seemingly intent on making it mortal until the losing bird managed to break free. There where more yet peccaries and guans were in the dining area when we arrived.

Day 10 2nd December Chaparri

A perfectly peaceful night was followed by a bird song-filled dawn. White-winged Guans were feeding on berries next to my cabin and chasing each other about with lots of squawking. The maize feeder quickly attracted three lovely White-tailed Jays and Croaking Doves. I took a walk into the deciduous dry forest, in which the lack of leaves made wildlife viewing easier and I soon saw four White-tailed Deer, and these were followed by Tumbes Hummingbird, Golden-bellied Grosbeak, Tropical Parula, Andean Tinamou and Southern Beardless Tyrannulet. Walking up through the rocky cactus studded terrain there were some interesting succulents and the trees were festooned with hundreds of epiphytic Tillandsia bromeliads curled into little balls. There were fine views across the park and the extensive dry forest it preserves and then descending we picked up Tumbes Tyrant, Collared Peccary and the tiny Pacific Parrotlet.

I stayed by the feeder in the hour before lunch, where a Vermillion Flycatcher ws hawking insects for a long time, White-edged Orioles were feeding on fruit in the trees behind and on a couple of occasions a gorgeous male Elegant Crescentchest hopped past. Amazilia Hummingbirds were feeding on the flowering Stachytapheta frantzii shrubs and these also attracted at least three species of skippers, Junonia evarete and Phoebis argante whilst the odd Monarch and tarantula hawk-wasp flew past. Two White-winged Guans turned up for a snooze in the shade, before one of them broke off and chased a young bird giving a real hard peck in the process.

The heavily pregnant female Sechuran Fox was curled up asleep in the afternoon awaiting the imminent arrival of her pups. My walk into the countryside in the added Western Curly- tailed Lizard, Parrot-billed seed-finch and Short-tailed Field-tyrant as well as seeing four more Pacific Parrotlets. Before dinner we searched in vain for Peruvian Screech Owl but there was compensation in the shape of a feisty tarantula.

Tomorrow I was going after bears…

Day 11 3rd December Chaparri and to Lima

I probably shouldn’t write this for as it turned out the location is too difficult to reach on a tour and besides that the lodge wants to keep it secret to avoid hunters entering the park to shoot bears. But for a chance of Spectacled Bear I had to leave early, first driving for an hour to a secret location and then by 5am I was walking into the hills with my guide. It was great to be out so early as the stars faded and the blue-black ridges became orange cliffs swathes in leafless trees. At this point I noticed the guide was carrying a length of rope – I asked him if we needed a length of rope? He grinned and replied “Esta peligrosa” – It’s dangerous! The route followed rocky riverbeds before we reached what would be waterfalls in the wet season. Above these the rope came out as we scaled the loose, crumbly rock with steep drop- offs to the left. Assisted now by a second guide, the rope seemed to be more for peace of mind than a vital necessity, but one slip would have been painful in the least. Reaching the top with superb views of the forests and landscape at dawn we sat down at the viewpoint of a concealed spring (given away by the greenery) and expected a bit of a wait. But no within a minute Ivan was calling me over to the astonishing sight of not one but three Spectacled Bears walking along the cliff ledge to the spring. At one point one bear attacked one of the others and sent it tumbling down a level to the ledge below. Then the assailant climbed to the top of the cliff and ambled along to the spring with me clicking stills and shooting video alternately. He stopped and had a look around and a good sniff of the air and then went down to the spring. The second bear then approached the spring from the lower ledge and it too went out of sight. That left the third bear whose porridge must surely be getting cold by now and he eventually scrambled down and then up another route to the second and joined the other two to the sound of a few bear groans. Wow! I couldn’t have dreamt it.

We waited an hour and then with no reshowing of the three bears we decided to head down, roped up again until we reached the relative security of rugged boulder fields. There had also been some attractive scarlet-flowered Opuntia and endemic, White-edged Oriole and then a Black-chested Buzzard Eagle had soared out as we were half way down, but nothing was going to come close to this experience. I gave the staff a quick video show before lunch.

It had been a very enjoyable couple of days in the dry forests, but the high Andes beckoned and it was now time to move on so I rumbled back to the main road and then drove to the airport for my flight to Lima.

Day 12 4th December To Caraz and Huascaran National Park

I took the short flight to Huaraz where Luis the owner of the pleasant hotel in the next town (Caraz) met me and took me to his place. We worked out the best plan for the afternoon and then had a huge lunch. The road wound up through little farms and past nurseries growing many Alstroemeria and past many bushes of the exotic looking proteaceae with its white and pink flowers and then there was a sudden stop for a large tarantula wandering along the road. Entering the national park there were large tracts of Polylepis forest and a varied flora along the roadside and also Bar-winged Cinclodes and Plumbeous Sierra-finch. The turquoise waters of Lake Llanganuca had some beautifully lit flaky-barked Polylepis as Andean Swallows hawked for insects low over its’ surface. Progressing to the second lake there were Andean Coot, Silvery Grebe, Ruddy Duck, Andean Gull and pair of Andean Geese with several goslings in tow as well as Crested Duck, Yellow-billed Teal and two Andean Flickers feeding in the surrounding turf. Returning to the first lake I took a walk down through the magnificent Polylepis forests, where the gorgeous bark was enhanced by masses of emerald bromeliads, ferns and on the rocks where various orchids, sometimes in great quantity. The finest species was the stunning reddish-pink Masdevallia veitchiana. Competing with this was the increasingly common and similarly coloured passion flower Passiflora sp. Birdlife was proving tricky to locate but I did see Shining Sunbeam and Chinguanco Thrush. The forest was a delight and the trail followed a fast-flowing torrent flanked by mossy boulders. Reaching the car we drove down towards Caraz stopping for fine views of clearing skies and stands of a white-flowered shrubby proteaceae with Giant Hummingbird and Black-billed Shrike-tyrant showing well. A superb cactus was brimming with flamboyant flowers near the town.

Day 13 5th December Punta Winchus

There are flowers and then there are flowers and my target today was perhaps the grandest of all, the towering Puya raimondii. However, I knew I was going to see them a bit late (they usually flower in October), but it was worth a shot. Driving up from the valley we were going to have to gain over two thousand metres in altitude to reach the colony of puya. Lower down were many different cacti including some fine stands of Echinopsis pachanoi with their outrageous huge white flowers a buzz with bees. Continuing up there were bird stops for Giant Hummingbird, Streak-throated Bush-tyrant, White-browed Chat-tyrant, Greenish Yellow-finch and Mourning Sierra-finch, Black-winged Ground-dove, whilst Ash-breasted Sierra-finches were abundant with large flocks crossing the puna. Reaching the four thousand two hundred metres pass there were big views all around and down to the Pacific, even the Cordillera Blanca was showing glacier and the odd peak through the clouds. Sadly when we reached the puyas it was obvious we were too late in the season with only towering six metres tall, blackened stems remaining. Nonetheless the non-flowering plants were enormous and fantastic in their own right, and even these towered over me reaching three metres, and they were scattered across the rocky puna and nearby hills. There were wonderful views back into the valley we’d driven up as a Mountain Caracara glided past and the puna was studded with many cacti with a golden-spined Eriosyce sp and the superb woolly mounds of an Opuntia sp.

Having spent plenty of time admiring the immense puyas we began our descent stopping several times for birds and cacti, with Slender-billed Miner, Spot-billed Ground-tyrant, White-winged Cinclodes, Puna Ibis and Andean Goose as well a red-flowered cactus.

The following few days include my trip to the Amazon. Whilst the Amazon clearly has great potential, it will not feature in this tour until I find a lodge I feel is suitable.

[Day 14 6th December To Iquitos

Thanks to hopeless flight times I had to waste most of today in airports! First I flew to Lima and then waited until the last flight to Iquitos arriving in the humid warmth and a hotel…with no restaurant, so dinner was a snickers bar!

Day 15 7th December To Muyuna Lodge

I was eager to get going, but had to wait until 9am for my pick-up and then another hour of fiddling around in the office but by 10am but I was off, travelling south along the Rio Amazonas where Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns were common, but not much else. Reaching the lodge, which lay along a quiet side channel, there was a noisy colony of Yellow- rumped Caciques to greet my arrival.

In the afternoon we took a walk in the forest seeing a mother and baby Yellow-crested Brush-tailed Tree-Rat poking their heads out of a tree hole. As we watched these three or four Dusky Titi monkeys appeared and moved quickly through the canopy with a rush of reddish fur. And then a bit further on as some lovely orange heliconids danced about the forest we found the tiny, cute Pygmy Marmosets feeding on the sap of a large tree. These were much easier to observe well as they never moved far from their territorial tree. Various butterflies were on the wing but none was settling including the huge Owl Butterfly that flew out and then back into the dense undergrowth. Turning back we stopped by a bridge for a while and the birdlife, which had been quiet up until now spring into action with great views of Bluish-fronted Jacamar, Cream-coloured Woodpecker, Black-faced Nunbirds (which were also very vocal) and a fly over from Blue-and-yellow Macaws. A huge very hairy Pink-toed Tarantula awaited me when I got back as we watched it slowly creeping into position on a palm tree.

There was a post dinner nocturnal boat trip and it was good for night birds especially with first a Boat-billed Heron, then Long-tailed Potoo, followed by two Great Potoos and a Ladder- tailed Nightjar. In between these sightings were a beautifully marked frog Hyla punctata and a young Spectacled Caiman (which was captured and seen up close).

Day 16 8th December Muyuna Lodge

The Wattled Curassow is now a very rare bird (due to over-hunting), but a population exists near the lodge and to get to it when the birds were still there meant leaving at 5.15 and taking a boat a short way upriver. Unfortunately the only curassow we found was a dead one, in fact only the skeleton and feathers remains of a predator kill! There was a living Crimson- crested Woodpecker.

After breakfast we explored another tract of varzea forest whizzing down a side channel where a Green-and-rufous Kingfisher flashed across our bows. Probably the standout moment of the walk came fairly early on when we found a sizeable Fer-de-lance on the path. As well as this there were some fine birds with White-eared Jacamar, Horned Screamers in the marshes, Chestnut-eared Aracari, Black-faced Nunbirds, as well as both Amazonian Barred and Elegant Woodcreepers, Black-collared Hawk and a Green-backed Trogon. Mammal-wise there were rather brief glimpses of a Tayra high in a tree and Brown Capuchin, but butterflies were common with many Melinaea marsaeus, a Stalachtis sp and the stunning Helicopis gnidus (the latter two always settling beneath leaves). A couple of Blue Morphos glided through the forest and a large Amazonian Tegu lizard scuttled across the leaf litter, before we arrived back at the boat.

Given the mornings (sweaty) exertions the afternoon was spent sat in the boat exploring the various lagoons and what a pleasant afternoon it was as we moved from one lake to the next via narrower channels at times ploughing through a dense emerald carpet of water lettuce and flushing Wattled Jacanas and Striated Herons aplenty. There were countless grasshoppers pinging from the vegetation and the odd pretty marbled frog. During the first stretch of the river we saw no fewer than three Three-toed Sloths and bird life was rich and varied throughout beginning with Slender-billed Kite and Laughing Falcon, followed by American Pygmy Kingfisher and several peculiar-looking Bare-necked Fruitcrows. Horned Screamers were common throughout the marshes along with odd Anhinga, a few Muscovy Ducks and Cocoi Herons. Black-collared Hawks and a vigilant little Bat Falcon were next and as we exited one channel a Red-and-white Spinetail was seen well building a nest. Tui Parakeets were chattering in a tree and Mealy Parrots flew across in regularly pairs or small flocks. The sudden roar of Red Howlers was heard, heralding the impending rainstorm as spectacular rolling grey clouds moved across the lagoon. It seemed as though we’d missed the rain at first until we glanced behind and realised a second storm had swept in and this one we couldn’t avoid. Suffice to say the journey back was a touch soggy.

I went for a night walk in between downpours and found some interesting insects, spiders and a roosting (on the ground) Undulated Tinamou.

Day 17 9th December Muyuna Lodge & to Iquitos

I decided on a second early morning crack at the Wattled Curassow and we rode out to a different location, ploughing through the dense waterweeds to the shore. We hadn’t gone that far in when we heard a telltale whistle and carefully we crept to where I had good clear (if somewhat brief) views of a male Wattled Curassow perched on a large bough. He flew away and during the next hour we saw at least three more birds in flight and a brief view of a female in a tree, but they proved a wary and difficult bird to see well unless they were calling. Incidental other animals included Buff-throated Woodcreeper, Tiny Hawk, Plumbeous Kite, a fleeting Common Squirrel Monkey and a flock of noisy Festive Parrots in a tree. But where were all of the antbirds, etc - a mystery to me? Satisfied with the mornings birding we rode back passing a large flock of Wattled Jacana of all ages and Black-collared Hawks.

My remaining time at Muyuna was spent searching the Amazon for river dolphins, finding our first Pink River Dolphin or Boto in a side channel and then further down river we came across a pod of around eight Tucuxis, and these were seen well close to the boat as they regularly surfaced. Three Botos also came by the same area and I had great views of their heads and pink snouts, especially when one leapt from the water. With decent views of both we headed back finding several Black-capped Donacobius, White-headed Marsh-tyrant, White-eared Jacamar and then two preening Blue-and-yellow Macaws. Two more flew from the same tree and we had great views of them feeding on fruits. Not far from the lodge and a Great Black Hawk posed well for photos, screaming to an unseen mate. The last thing I had to do was photograph the immense Aechmea bromeliad flowering near the lodge.

It was time to leave and time for me to begin my long journey home to Turkey. Departing the lodge (in heavy rain) after lunch we sped back to Iquitos or at least that was the plan. The boat soon developed an engine problem and we limped along stopping frequently to ‘fix’ the problem driving a kilometre or so and then stopping again. I managed to see Black Skimmer despite the pouring rain. I changed boats for the last hour back, a less comfortable alternative with a young lunatic at the wheel, but I arrived. After packing, I had dinner and a fine pisco sour.]

Day 18 10th December To Sao Paolo

The rain stopped sometime in the night and I was at the airport by 7am and out of the humid warmth of Iquitos on time and onto Lima, flying over the Amazon forests and the Andes (in theory, all was swathed in clouds). From Lima I flew onto Sao Paolo in Brazil and overnighted in a large cupboard (it wasn’t the largest room I’d stayed in).

Day 19 11th December To Istanbul and Antalya

Crack of dawn saw me taking off for Istanbul, and in the bosom of Turkish Airlines... Peru was great and clearly a country with a lot to see, with great food and strong pisco sours.

CHECKLIST 1 BIRDS

Around 310 species were seen, but more would be expected on the tour as the bird-rich areas between Leymebamba and Cajamarca were not visited (roadworks), but would feature in the tour and more time would be spent at some locations than was possible during the reccy. Expect 400+.

Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui Heard, La Escalera Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus Muyuna Andean Tinamou Nothoprocta pentlandii A couple at Chaparri Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera Pair with goslings at Lago Llanganuca, also Punta Winchus Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Muyuna Yellow-billed Teal Anas flavirostris Lago Llanganuca Crested Duck Lophonetta specularoides Lago Llanganuca Ruddy Duck Oxyura mamaicensis Lago Llanganuca Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Stunning male near Gotca Wattled Curassow Crax globulosa Muyuna Wattled Guan Aburria aburri Heard, Pumarinri Andean Guan Penelopa montagnii Abra Patricio White-winged Guan Penelope albipennis Common at Chaparri, but globally very rare Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Pumarinri Silvery Grebe Podiceps occiptalis Lago Llanganuca Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus Hundreds on the cliffs at Puerto Eten Blue-footed Booby Sula nebouxii Thousands at Puerto Eten Peruvian Booby Sula variegata Numerous but less common than former at Puerto Eten Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Muyuna Neotropical Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Muyuna Great Egret Ardea alba Scattered, rice fields, etc Snowy Egret Egretta thula Scattered, rice fields, etc Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Widespread in rural areas Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Muyuna Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma lineatum One fishing in the Utcubamba River Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius Muyuna Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax Lago Llanganuca Striated Heron Butorides striata Muyuna Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta Muyuna Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi Two at Punta Winchus Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Widespread Black Vulture Corygyps atratus Widespread Slender-billed Kite Helicolestes hamatus Muyuna Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Muyuna Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus Muyuna Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga Muyuna Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Muyuna Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Widespread Variable Hawk Buteo polysoma Widespread Black-chested Buzzard-eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Chaparri Osprey Pandion haliaetus Muyuna American Kestrel Falco sparverius Scattered in drier areas Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Muyuna Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus La Escalera Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinans Muyuna Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Muyuna Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Near Chiclayo Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus Adults and juvenile at Punta Winchus megalopterus Rufous-sided Crake Laterallus melanophaius Heard La Escalera Purple Gallinule Porphyria martinica Near Tarapoto Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca Lago Llanganuca Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Muyuna Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Muyuna Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus Puerto Eten Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Punta Winchus Black Skimmer Rynchops niger Amazon Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Muyuna Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris Muyuna Pacific Dove Zenaida meloda Pomac Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Muyuna Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea La Escalera Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis Amazon Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Muyuna Black-winged Ground-dove Metriopelia melanoptera Punta Winchus Ruddy Ground-dove Columbina talpacoti Pumarinri Croaking Ground-dove Columbina cruziana Common at Chaparri Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna Muyuna Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanoptera La Escalera Red-masked Parakeet Aratinga erythrogenys Chaparri Tui Parakeet Brotogeris sanctithomae Muyuna Pacific Parrotlet Forpus coelestis Tiny parrot, Chaparri Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus La Escalera Festive Parrot Amazona festiva Muyuna Mealy Parrot Amazona farinosa Muyuna Speckle-faced Parrot Pionus tumultuosus Abra Patricio Scaly-naped Parrot Amazon mercenaria Abra Patricio Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana La Escalera Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Lowlands Greater Ani Crotophaga major Muyuna Long-tailed Potoo Nyctibius aethereus Muyuna Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis Muyuna Ladder-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis climacocerca Muyuna Long-whiskered Owlet Xenoglaux loweryi A globally rare bird, seen at Abra Patricio Rufous-banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsis Good views at Abra Patricio Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Small commonly near Pomac, great views Peruvian Pygmy Owl Glaucidium peruanum Seen well at Pomac Oilbird Steatornis caripensis Near Moyobamba where a colony of 35 is easily seen from the road! White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris Pumarinri White-tipped Swift Aeronauts montivagus Pumarinri Fork-tailed Palm Swift Tachornis squamata Muyuna Sword-billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera Extraordinary species with outsize beak, Abra Patricio Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Caraz area Koepcke’s Hermit Phaethornis koepckeae La Escalera Black-throated Hermit Phaethornis atrimentalis Moyobamba Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis superciliosus Moyobamba Grey-breasted Sabrewing Campylopterus largipennis Lowlands White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora Lowlands Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Moyobamba Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata Lowlands, where common Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans Moyobamba, Abra Patricio, Huembo Violet-headed Hummingbird Kluis guimeti Huembo Rufous-crested Coquette Lophornis delattrei Lovely species on feeders at Moyobamba Blue-chinned Sapphire Chlorestes notata Muyuna Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenene Moyobamba, la Escalera Spot-throated Hummingbird Leucippus taczanowskii Between Jaen and Tucume Tumbes Hummingbird Leucippus baeri Chaparri White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster Moyobamba Amazilia Hummingbird Amazilia amazilia Chaparri Blue-fronted Lancebill Doryfera johannae La Escalera Marvellous Spatuletail Loddigesia mirabilis Amazing little bird, seen wel at Huembo Many-spotted Hummingbird Taphrospilus hypostictus La Escalera Gould’s Jewelfront Heliodoxa aurescens Moyobamba Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides Abra Patricio Black-throated Brilliant Heliodoxa schrebersii La Escalera Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Huascaran Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii Abra Patricio Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena Abra Patricio Collared Inca Coeligena torquata Abra Patricio Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi Abra Patricio White-bellied Woodstar Chaetocercus mulsant Abra Patricio Short-tailed Woodstar Myrmia micrura Chaparri Emerald-bellied Puffleg Eriocnemis alinae Abra Patricio Green-backed Trogon Trogon viridis La Escalera Masked Trogon Trogon personatus Frequent at Abra Patricio Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Jaen Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Muyuna Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda Muyuna American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea Muyuna White-eared Jacamar Galbalcyrhynchus leucotis Muyuna Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens La Escalera Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons Pumarinri Gilded Barbet Capito auratus Three at La Escalera Emerald Toucanet Aulacorhynchus prasinus One noisy one at Huembo Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis Pumarinri Speckle-chested Piculet Picumnus steinachneri Highly local, seen well at Abra Patricio Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Venilornis callonotus Handsome little woody, Pomac, Chaparri Smoky-brown Woodpecker Picoides fumigatus Heard at Abra Patricio Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus La Escalera Crimson-mantled Colaptes rivolii With mixed flock at Abra Patricio Woodpecker Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus Pomac, Chaparri, Abra Patricio Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola Two probing turf at Lago Llanganuca Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elgans Muyuna Cream-coloured Celeus flavus Muyuna Woodpecker Crimson-crested Campephilus melanoleucos Pumarinri Woodpecker Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes Abra Patricio, a fleeting glimpse promeropirhynchus Amazonian Barred Dendrocolaptes certhia Muyuna Woodcreeper Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus Muyuna Elegant Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus elegans Muyuna Olive-backed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus triangularis Abra Patricio Montane Woodcreeper Lepiocolaptes lacrymiger Abra Patricio Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepiocolaptes souleyetii Chaparri Long-billed Woodcreeper Nasica longirostris Muyuna Cinnamon-throated Dendrexetastes rufigula La Escalera, Pumarinri Woodcreeper Slender-billed Miner Geositta tenuirostris Punta Winchus White-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes atacamensis Lago Llanganuca, Punta Winchus Bar-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Lago Llanganuca Necklaced Spinetail Synallaxis stictothorax Pomac Azara’s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Abra Patricio Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa Abra Patricio Red-and-white Spinetail Certhiaxis mustelinus Muyuna Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger Pair with a nest in thick moss at Abra Patricio Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis Abra Patricio Buff-throated Foliage- Automolus ochrolaemus Heard La Escalera gleaner Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes Lovely species, probing bromeliads with boissonneautii flocks at Abra Patricio Striped Treehunter Thripadectes holostictus Abra Patricio Plain Xenops Xenops minutus La Escalera Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans Abra Patricio Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus Pomac Pacific Hornero Furnarius cinnamomeus Chaparri Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis Heard at Muyuna Collared Antshrike Thamnophilus bernardi Pomac, Chaparri Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus Abra Patricio caerulescens Black Antbird Cercomacra serva La Escalera Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata Abra Patricio Rusty-tinged Antpitta Grallaria przewalskii Brief views at Abra Patricio Rufous-vented Tapaculo Scytalopus femoralis Seen briefly several times at Abra Patricio Elegant Crescentchest Melanopareia elegans Cracking bird, seen very well at Chaparri Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris La Escalera Inca Flycatcher Leptopogon taczanoswkii Abra Patricio. Endemic Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis Abra Patricio Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius viridiflavus La Escalera Yellow Tyrannulet Capsiempis flaveola La Escalera Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus La Escalera Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous La Escalera Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis La Escalera, Abra Patricio Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomeus Abra Patricio Black-throated Tody-tyrant Hemitriccus ganadensis Abra Patricio Johnson’s (Lulu’s) Tody- Poecilotriccus luluae Little cutey at Abra Patricio. Endemic tyrant Common Tody-flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Pomac, La Escalera Tawny-faced Pygmy-tyrant Euscarthmus meloryphus Chaparri Southern Beardless Camptostoma obsoletum Chaparri Tyrannulet Grey-and-white Tyrannulet Pseudelaenia leucospodia Chaparri Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi Abra Patricio Olive Flycatcher Mitrephanes olivaceous Abra Patricio Flavescent Flycatcher Myiophobus flavicans Abra Patricio Western Wood-pewee Contopus sordidulus La Escalera Smoke-coloured Pewee Contopus fumigatus Abra Patricio Blackish Pewee Contopus nigrescens La Escalera, rare Vermillion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus Little dazzler, seen well and easily at Pomac, Chaparri, Caraz White-headed Marsh-tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala Muyuna Spot-billed Ground-tyrant Muscisaxicola Punta Winchus maculirostris Short-tailed Field-tyrant Muscigralla brevicauda Chaparri Black-billed Shrike-tyrant Agriornis montanus Punta Winchus Streak-throated Bush-tyrant Myiotheretes striaticollis Punta Winchus White-browed Chat-tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys Punta Winchus Cliff Flycatcher Hirundinea ferruginea La Escalera Tumbes Tyrant Tumbezia salvini Chaparri Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Pumarinri Baird’s Flycatcher Myiodynastes bairdii Chaparri, Pomac Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Pumarinri Lesser Kiskadee Pitangus lector Muyuna Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melanocholicus Lowlands Rufous Flycatcher Myiarchus semirufus Pomac White-winged Becard Pachyramphus La Escalera polychopterus Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor Abra Patricio Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferi Abra Patricio Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus Muyuna Andean Cock-of-the-rock Rupicola peruvianus Always a crowd pleaser, several at La Escalera Fiery-capped Manakin Machaeropterus Lovely bird, but hard to locate on La pyrocephalus Escalera Blue-crowned Manakin Lepidothrix coronata Pumarinri Rufous-browed Cyclarhis gujanensis Pomac, Abra Patricio Peppershrike Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus La Escalera Green (Inca) Jay Cyanocorax yncas Abra Patricio White-tailed Jay Cyanocorax mystacalis Lovely bird, easily seen at feeders and in forest at Chaparri Southern Rough-wing Stelgidopetryx ruficollis Scattered in lowlands Swallow White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata Pumarinri Blue-and-white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Highlands Andean Swallow Orochelidon andecola Lago Llanganuca White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer Muyuna Fasciated Wren Campylorhynchus fasciatus Pomac, Chaparri Musician Wren Cyphorhinus arada Heard singing at Muyuna White-breasted Wood-wren Henicorhina leucosticte La Escalera Grey-breasted Wood-wren Henicorhina leucophrys Abra Patricio Chestnut-breasted Wren Cyphorhinus thoracicus Abra Patricio Musician Wren Cyphorhinus arada Heard at Muyuna Superciliated Wren Thryothorus superciliaris Pomac Sharpe’s Wren Cinnycerthia olivascens Abra Patricio Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitalis Abra Patricio House Wren Troglodytes aedon Widespread rural bird Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus Abundant in dry lowlands Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius tricapilla Muyuna Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea Pomac Slaty-backed Nightingale- Catharus fuscater Abra Patricio thrush Swainson’s Thrush Catharus ustulatus Pumarinri Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Abra Patricio Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco Caraz area Drab Hemispingus Hemispingus Abra Patricio xanthophthalmus Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis Abra Patricio Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis Abra Patricio Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus Abra Patricio Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo La Escalera Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala Abra Patricio Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Lowlands Blue-grey Tanager Thruapis episcopus Lowlands Common Bush-tanager Chlorospingus Abra Patricio ophthalmicus Grey-hooded Bush-tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris Abra Patricio Hooded Mountain-tanager Buthraupis Montana Abra Patricio Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii Abra Patricio Lacrimose Mountain-tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus Abra Patricio Blue-winged Mountain- Anisognathus somptuosus Abra Patricio tanager Yellow-scarfed Tanager Iridosornis reinhardtii Gorgeous tanager, seen well at Abra Patricio Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis Abra Patricio Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii Abra Patricio Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii Abra Patricio Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola La Escalera Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis Subtle and stunning, Abra Patricio Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala One of many beautiful tanagers at Abra Patricio Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides Abra Patricio Dotted Tanager Tangara varia La Escalera Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis A technicolor beauty near Pumarinri Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis La Escalera Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza La Escalera Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus La Escalera Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata La Escalera Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons Abra Patricio Red-hooded Tanager Piranga rubriceps Abra Patricio Summer Tanager Piranga rubra Lowlands Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossa cyanea Abra Patricio White-sided Flowerpiercer Diglossa albilatera Abra Patricio Black-throated Diglossa brunneiventris Kuelap Flowerpiercer Tumbes Sparrow Aimophila stolzmanni Chaparri Peruvian Sierra-finch Phrygilus punensis Punta Winchus Mourning Sierra-finch Phrygilus fruticeti Punta Winchus Ash-breasted Sierra-finch Phrygilus plebejus Punta Winchus Plumbeous Sierra-finch Phrygilus unicolor Punta Winchus Cinereous Finch Piezorhina cinerea Pomac Collared Warbling-Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis Chaparri Greenish Yellow-finch Sicalis olivascens Punta Winchus Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola Pomac Slaty Finch Haplospiza rustica Abra Patricio Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris Abra Patricio Parrot-billed Seedeater Sporophila peruviana Chaparri Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis Muyuna Chestnut-capped Brush- Arremons brunneinucha Abra Patricio finch Yellow-breasted Brush-finch Atlapetes latinuchus Abra Patricio White-headed Brush-finch Atlapetes albiceps Chaparri Golden-bellied Grosbeak Pheuticus chrysogaster Kuelap, Chaparri Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Widespread Slate-coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus La Escalera Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus Abra Patricio Slate-throated Redstart Myioborus miniatus Abra Patricio Spectacled Redstart Myioborus melanocephalus Abra Patricio Bananaquit Coereba flaveola Chaparri Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus Abra Patricio Russet-backed Oropendula Psarocolius atrovirens Pumarinri Crested Oropendula Psarocolius decumanus La Escalera Yellow-billed Cacique Ambylcercus holosericus Abra Patricio Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela Muyuna Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Muyuna Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewczi Widespread Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas Near Jaen White-edged Oriole Icterus graceannae A handsome oriole, common at Chaparri Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicose Widespread Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Abra Patricio, Huascaran Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea Abra Patricio Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris La Escalera Bronze-green Euphonia Euphonia mesochrysa La Escalera 317

CHECKLIST 2 MAMMALS

Greater Bulldog Bat Noctilio leporinus Muyuna Sechuran Fox Lycalopex sechurae Tame at Chaparri Spectacled Bear Tremarctos ornatus The big one!!! Seen well at Chaparri – but difficult. Collared Peccary Tayassu tajacu Tame at Chaparri Guayaquil Squirrel Sciurus stramineus One at Pomac Yellow-crowned Brush- Isothrix bistriata Muyuna tailed Tree-rat White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus Quite approachable at Chaparri Brown-throated Three-toed Bradypus variegatus Muyuna Sloth Saddle-backed Tamarind Saguinus fuscicollis Seen well (but shy), Pumarinri Dusky Titi Callicebes moloch Muyuna Pygmy Marmoset Cebuella pygmaea Muyuna Common Squirrel Monkey Saimiri sciureus Muyuna Brown Capuchin Cebus paella Muyuna Red Howler Alouatta seniculus Heard at Muyuna Night Monkey Aotus sp. Great dusk views at Abra Patricio Tayra Eira Barbara Habituated male at Abra Patricio Common Opossom Didelphis marsupialis Roadkill near Gotca Boto (Pink River Dolphin) Inia geoffrensis 4 seen in Amazon Tucuxi Sotalia fluviatalis 8 in the Amazon

CHECKLIST 3 REPTILES AND AMPHIBIANS

Poison Frog Poison Frog Poison Frog Poison Frog Poison Frog Xxx Frog Xxx Frog Xxx Frog Giant Toad Rhinella marinus Spectacled Caiman Caiman crocodilus Amazonian Tegu Tupinambis teguixin Amazonian Fer-de-Lance Bothrops atrox Xxx Snake Xxx Racer Western Curly-tailed Lizard Microlophus occipitalis

CHECKLIST 4 BUTTERFLIES

To be Added!