Out from the Shadows URUGUAY IS READY FOR ITS CLOSE-UP story and photos by Anthony Dias Blue

Uruguay? Where’s that? Dwarfed by and from Madiran. In both cases, what makes somewhat coarse and rustic its two South American east coast in France, makes charming, fruitforward behemoth neighbors— wines in South America. and Brazil—this tiny country of 3 million Montevideo, Uruguay’s capital, is people is easy to overlook. But wait just an amiable city of 1.5 million—half a minute. It’s time for the world to notice the country’s population. The city is Uruguay . . . and its terrifi c wines. surrounded by the waters of the Rio Uruguay has been a well-kept secret. de la Plata on three sides. It has an Nevertheless, for years its pristine easy-going, lived-in feel. The people are beaches have been the warm weather friendly, generous and fun-loving and playground of the well-heeled of Buenos restaurants are throbbing with life until Aires. Its banks have been the refuge for well after midnight (most Uruguayans those looking to escape the economic would consider a dinner reservation chaos of Argentina. And now, its wines before 10 p.m. as gauche). are beginning to attract consumers Uruguay is not a particularly hospitable looking for exciting, modern and destination for vegetarians. In reasonably-priced bottlings. fact, vegetables are not a big part of the Like Argentina, Uruguay was settled local diet. Beef, on the other hand, in by Europeans—mainly Spanish and the form of asado (sort of a giant mixed Italian, both people with a strong grill), is most of the diet. The average culture. The difference in areas of Uruguayan consumes over 150 pounds production between the two is, however, of beef annually. considerable. While most Argentine Uruguayans also take their wine seriously. are located on the high desert The country has been producing plain east of the Andes, Uruguay’s wine for more than a century but a new vineyards are mostly maritime. Many generation, many of whom trained in are within a few miles of the Atlantic Mendoza, has updated the technology, Ocean. streamlined the vineyards and upgraded As a result of this diversity, different wine quality. varieties have come to dominate Most wine production is located the respective wine cultures: in north of Montevideo in the department Argentina, Tannat in Uruguay. Both of of Canelones. Other vineyards can be these varieties come from vineyards in found in nearby Colonia, San Jose and Southwest France, Malbec from Maldonado. Marichal

This small was established in 1938 by the Marichal family who descended from immigrants from the Canary Islands. All wines are produced from estate-owned vineyards planted in Canelones’s limestone-clay soil.

The winery is run by the fourth generation of Marichals, brothers Juan Andrés and Alejandro, with help from the third generation, their mother Lidia and father Juan Carlos. The winery produces , and Tannat.

Tasting Notes A small selection of the best releases I tasted. Approximate SRPs are given for wines available in the U.S. market. A.D.B

Marichal 2011 Premium Marichal 2009 Tannat, Reserve Chardonnay, Collection, Canelones. Deep, rich Canelones . Fresh and and tangy with spice, lively black clean with good depth of raspberry and racy acidity; crisp, flavor; lovely fruit with good generous and complete; balanced minerality and pure, long and delicious. flavors; no ML, no . 90 91 FACE TO FACE (CA)/TKO WINES (MN)