ENGLISH CO ST U M E

Bv D I ON CLAYTON CALT H R OP

ILL UST RA T E D WIT H F ULL -PA GE PLATE S IN C OLOU R A N D M ANY D IAGRAM S IN T H E T E ! T

E 6d . N ET E ACH SE CTI ON PRIC 7s.

1 1 d . ( POST F R E E 73. )

I EA RLY ENGLI H . S II M I LE A GE . DD S I I T U R A ND ST UA RT I . DO IV GE R GIA N . O

' Puélzs/zed

AGE NTS

AMERICA T H E M A CM I A N COM P . L L ANY 6 66 F IF H AVE NU E NEW YO R K 4 T . CANADA T H E M A CM I AN COM PANY OF C ANA D L L A . L T D . 2 R I C H MON RE E TOR ONTO 7 D ST T , INDIA M A CM I AN COM PANY L T D L L . MACM I AN B U I I NG BOM BAY LL LD . 309 Bow BA! AAR R E E r CA C UTTA ST , L

MAN T H E T E R E A OF IM OF CHA L S II . — ( 1 660 1 685)

T H I S sh ows the dress during the fi rst h alf of the rel n The a r rou s rIbb oni n shown g . fe tu e of g p of g is ,

sh ort u and ettlcoat . with the sleeve , the full sh t , the p

EN GLISH COST U M E

— D IO N CLAYT ON CALT IIROP

IV . G E O R GIA N

L O N D O N ADAM AND CH ARLES BLACK

1 9 0 6

T O M Y F R I EN D

BYAM SH AW

Co nt ent s

CHARLE S THE SECOND

M EN AND WO M EN

JAM E S T H E SECOND

AND WO M EN

WILLIAM AND MARY

! U EEN ANNE

M EN AN D WO M EN

' ‘ GEO RGE T H E FIRST

M EN AN D WO M EN viii CONTENTS

GEO RGE T HE SECOND

GEO RGE THE THIRD

M EN AND WO M EN

GEO RGE THE FO URTH

‘ ’ CU ROSY REM A R KS O N T H E L AST N EW FASH I O NS

POWD ER A N D PATCH ES

BEAU BRU M M ELL A ND C LOT H ES List o f Illustratio ns

1 Man th i arl 1 660- 1 68 5 . A of e T me of Ch es II .

Ma n h i arl 2 t e . . A of T me of Ch es II

h i arl 3 a t e . . A Wom n of T me of Ch es II

Ma th i a 1 68 5 - 1 68 4 n e J . . A of T me of mes II 9

5 W an the i J a . A om of T me of mes II .

6 Man t he i illi a . A of T me of W m an d Mary 1 68 9- 1 702

a th e i illi a 7. A Wom n of T me of W m and Mary

8 Man the i u 1 702- 1 714 . A of T me of Q een Anne \

a the i u 9. A Wom n of T me of Q een An ne

M h i - 1 0. an t e r 1 1 4 1 2 A of T me of Geo ge I . 7 7 7 h i 1 1 a t e r . . A Wom n of T me of Geo ge I

Man h r 1 - 1 0 1 2 t e . 27 76 . A of Time of Geo ge II 7

a the i r . 1 3. A Wom n of T me of Geo ge II

1 4 Man the Ti Of G r 1 60- 1 8 20 . A of me eo ge III . 7

1 5 a the i or . A Wom n of T me of Ge ge III .

ix LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Man the i r 1 60- 1 8 20 A of T me of Geo ge III . 7

a th e i r A Wom n of T me of Geo ge III .

A Se ri es of Wa sh D ra wi n gs to Illustrate the Cost ume of the R i n r e g of Geo ge III .

Man the i r IV 1 8 20- 1 8 30 A of T me of Geo ge . CH ARLES THE SE COND

tw t - fi ve ars 1 0— 1 8 5 Reigned en y ye ! 66 6 .

or 1 630. arr 1 662 K ath r of or a t . B n M ied , , e ine P ug l

THE MEN AND WOMEN

N GLAN E D , appar ently wi th a sigh

of f relie , lays aside

her hair shirt , and proves that she has been wearing a silk

vest under it . Rib bon makers and

- wig makers , lace

makers , tailors , and

shoemakers , pour f out thankful offerings at the altar o Fashion . One kind of folly has replaced another ; it is only the same goddess in different clothes . The lamp

VOL . IV . 1 2 ENGLISH COSTUME that winked and flickered before the stern black figure in Geneva bands and prim curls is put to shame by the flare of a thousand candles shin ing f on the painted ace, the exposed bosom , the

- of flaunting love locks this Carolean deity.

erIWI s We have burst out into p g , monstrous , bushy ; we have donned petticoat breeches ruffled li ke a pigeon ; we have cut our coats till they

o ff are mere apologies , serving to show our fine shirts ; and we have done the like with our coat ff sleeves , leaving a little cu glittering with buttons , and above that we have cut

a great slit , all to show the

of marvel our linen . Those of us who still wear the long wide breeches adorn them with heavy

f of sew rills deep lace , and bunches of ribbons along

the seams . We tie our ff cravats in long, sti bows or knot them tight , and allow the wide lace ends to float gracefully .

- ff Our hats , broad brimmed and sti , are loaded with feathers ; our little cloaks are barred with silk and lace and gold cord ; our shoes are square CHARLES THE SECOND 3

- toed and high heeled , and are tied with a long f ended bow o ribbon . Ribbon reigns triumphant ! it ties our periwigs into bunches at the ends ; it hangs in loops round our waists ; it ties our shirt - sleeves up in several places ; it twists itself round our knees . It is on our hats and heads , and necks and arms , and legs and shoes , and it peers out of the t0ps of our boots . i Divines rave , moral sts i rush into pr nt , to no pur pose . The names seem to convey a sense of luxury dove - coloured silk bro cade, Rhingrave breeches , white lutestring seamed all over with scarlet and silver lace, sleeves whipt i with a point lace , coat tr mmed and figured with l silver twist or satin ribbon ; canvas , camblet , gal oon

shame vellam ff . and y, buttons and ta ety ribbons

of The cannons , those bunches ribbons round our

confi dent s of u knees , and the , those bunches c rls by

’ our ladies cheeks , do not shake at the thunderings 1 — 2

M N T H E T E R E A A OF IM OF CHA L S II . — ( 1 660 1 68 5 )

' T H I S is the ch ange which ca me over men s d ress on - or a r 1 666. new a bout Octobe , It is the f shioned vest or body -coa t introduced to the notice of Charles E by J ohn velyn .

CHARLES THE SECOND 5 called favorites the long locks arranged to hang away from the face over the ears were called heart breakers and the curls close to the cheek were called confi

’ dents . Ladies wore cloaks with

for baggy hoods travelling, and for the Mall the same hats as

f . men , loaded with eathers I am going to leave the change in dress during this reign to the next chapter, in which you will read how it struck

Mr . Pepys . This change separates the old world of dress from the new ; it is the advent of

f n f rocked coats , the a cestor of our rock

coat . It finishes completely the series of evolutions beginning with the old

tunic , running through the gown stages

of to the doublet Elizabethan times ,

f f of lives in the hal coat , hal doublet I i Charles . , and ends in the absurd l ttle

f t fr o . jackets Charles II , who , sar orially, steps om

of A A the end the Middle ges into the New ges , 6 ENGLISH COSTUME

closes the door on a wardrobe of brilli ant e ccen

tricit y, and opens a cupboard containing our first

f - rock coat .

PEPYS AND CLOTHES

It is not really necessary for me to remind the

of reader that one the best companions in the world ,

son of . Samuel Pepys , was the a tailor Possibly I say possibly because the argument is really absurd

—~ he may have inherited his great interest in clothes

f f see rom his ather. You where the argument leads in the end ! that all men to take an interest in

’ clothes must be born tailors sons . This is no more

of A f true dam , who certainly did interest himsel , f f than it is o mysel .

’ Pepys was educated at St . Paul s School , went l to Trinity Col ege , Cambridge , got drunk there , and took a scholarship . He married when he was

- of f of twenty two a girl fi teen , the daughter a 1 633 Huguenot . He was born in , three years f f of . o a ter the birth Charles I I , outrageous f but delight ul memory, and he commenced his 1 660 Diary in , the year in which Charles entered 1 669 n London , ending it in , owing to his i creasing f weakn ess o sight . He was made Secretary to the CHARLES THE SECOND 7

A 1 6 2 in 1 6 3 dmiralty in 7 , 7 he became a member

of i Parl ament, was sent to the Tower as a Papist 1 6 9 1 68 0 1 68 4 in 7 , and released in . In he became

of President the Royal Society, and he died in

’

1 03 Olave s . 7 , and is buried in St . , Crutched Friars 1 660 Pepys mentions , in , his coat with long fu r . skirts , cap , and buckles on his shoes The

- f coat was , doubtless , an old ashioned Cromwellian

coat with no waist .

Later he goes to see Mr. Calthrop , and wears

f off his white suit with silver lace , having le t his

- great skirt coat . He leaves Mr . Calthrop to lay

up his money and change his shoes and stockings .

w aist clothes He mentions his scarlet , presumably

as ass a sash , and regards Mr . John Pickering an because of his feathers and his new suit made at

the Hague . He mentions his linning stockings

of and wide cannons . This mention wide cannons leads me to suppose that at this time any ornament

n ll at the k ee would be ca ed cannons , whether it

of was a part the breeches or the stockings , or a f separate rill or bunch of ribbons to put on . 1 On July , still in the same year, comes home his fin e camlett cloak and gold buttons ; also a

silk suit . Later he buys a jackanapes coat with

A N F T H E T E OF R E II WOMA O IM CHA L S . ( 1 660 1 68 5)

YOU will notice her h ai r in ringlets tied with a ribbon a nd r r a ra at d essed ove f me the sides .

CH AR LES UEUE SECOND 9

crimson short petticoat . Ladies are wearing hats

covered with feathers . i God w lling, he will begin next week to wear his

- three pound periwig . He has spent last month ( October) £ 1 2 on Miss

£5 5 . Pepys , and on his clothes He has silk tops

for his legs and a new shag gown .

- He has a close bodied coat , light

coloured cloth with a gold edge . He sees Lady Castlemaine in yellow

satin with a pin ner on . In 1 664 his wife begins to wear

- light coloured locks . In 1 665 there is a new fashion

’ r - fo ladies of yellow bird s eye hood . There is a fear of the hair of periwigs

in during the Plague . Even the middle of the Plague Pepys ponders

on the next fashion . In 1 666 women begin to wear

- u - buttoned p riding coats , hats and

periwigs . On October 8 the Ki ng says he will

set a thrifty fashion in clothes . At this momentous date in history we must break for a minute from

VOL . IV . 2 10 ENGLISH COSTUME

f our riend Pepys , and hear how this came about . Evelyn had given the King his pamphlet entitled

Tyrannus , or the

’ Mode . The King reads

the pamphlet , and is struck with the idea

of the Persian coat . A long pause may be

made here, in which the reader may float on a mental cloud back into the dim ages in

the East, and there behold a t ran smogrified edition of his own frock coat gracing the back of some staid philosopher. Evelyn had also

’ published Mundus Muliebris ; or, the Ladies

’ - Dressing Room U nlocked .

ft o f So , only one month a er the Great Fire f London, only a short time be ore the Dutch burnt f ships in the Medway, only a year a ter the Plague, f f King Charles decides to re orm the ashion . By 1 3 October the new vests are made, and the King and the Duke of York try them on . On the CHARLES THE SECOND 1 1

ft fi eenth the King wears his in public , and says he l f ’ wil never change to another ashion . It is , says

cassocke Pepys , a long close to the

of w body, black cloth and pinked ith white silk under it, and a coat over f it , and the legs ru fled with black

’ ’ ribband like a pigeon s legs .

The ladies , to make an alteration , are to wear short skirts . Nell w G ynne had a neat ankle, so I imagine she f had a hand in this ashion . 1 On October 7 the King , seeing

Lord St . Alban in an all black suit , says that the black and white makes them look

of too much like magpies . He bespeaks one all black velvet . Sir Philip Howard increases in the Eastern i fashion, and wears a nightgown and a turban l ke a Turk . On November 2 Pepys buys a vest like the

’ King s . V 22 of ! I . On November the King France , Louis , who had declared war against England earlier in the i f year, says that he w ll dress all his ootmen in vests f of . like the King England However, ashion is 2— 2

CHARLES THE SECOND 1 3

for 1 keep his periwig in order £ a year . He buys

bombaz in a black suit . In 1 669 his wife wears the new French gown

5 f r ac 5 o . called a s ; he pays s. his new belt His wife still wears her old flower tabby gown . So d ends the ress note in the Diary . JAMES THE SECOND

R fo r ars 1 8 5— eigned u ye 6 1 68 9.

orn 1 633. arr 1 661 d 1 673 B M ied , , Anne Hy e ,

ar of o a M y M den . THE MEN AND WOMEN

IN such a short space of time as this reign occupies it is not possible to Show any great difference in the character of the

dress , but there is a w tendency, sho n over

the country at large, to discard the earli er f beribboned ashions , and to take more seriously to the long coat and waistcoat . There is a tendency, even , to become — more buttoned up to present what I can only call

- a frock coat figure . The coat became closer to the 1 4

MAN T H E T E E A OF IM OF J AM S II . — ( 1 68 5 1 689)

T HE - a has r a a body co t now become the unive s l f shion , s a W - r B a re a have lso the ide knee b eeches. uckles a r used on the shoes inste d of st ings .

J AMES THE SECOND 1 5

f m body, and was braided across the ront in any f rows , the ends ringed out and held by buttons .

’ The waistcoat, with the pockets an arm s length t down , was cut the same leng h as the coat .

f and Breeches were more requently cut tighter, f were buttoned up the side o the leg . The cuffs

of b the sleeves were wide , and were turned ack

well over the wrist . Of course the change was gradual , and more

men wore the transitional coat than the tight one . By the coat in its changing stages I mean such a coat as this ! the

short coat of the early Charles I I .

a and f period m de long, , ollowing

of the old lines cut, correspondingly

loose . The sleeves remained much the same , well over the elbow, showing the white shirt full and tied with ribbons . The shoe

strings had nearly died out , giving place to a buckle placed on a strap

well over the instep .

of o f There is a hint growth in the periwig, and f f t of ewer ea hers round the brim the hat ; indeed , little low hats with broad brims , merely ornamented

N T H E T E E A WOMA OF IM OF J AM S II . — ( 1 68 5 1 68 9)

N OT I CE r a ar a a a the b o d coll g in in use , lso the T h nosegay . e sleeves a re more in the mannish as f hion .

J AMES THE SECOND 17

of take to the long coat , a suit black grogram below

n - for the knees , a sash , and a walki g stick the cold ,

r a short black cloak. In the count y the change would be very noticeable . The country town , the

’ few countryside , was , until a years back , distinctly Puritanical in garb there were Elizabethan doub

On lets old men , and wide Cromwellian breeches ,

- patched doubtless , walked the market place . Hair w a w s worn short . Now the russet bro n clothes take a decided character in the direction of the

Persian coat and knickerbockers closed at the knee . The good - wife of the farmer kn ots a loose cloth over her head , and pops a

’ - broad brimmed man s hat over it . She has the sleeves of her dress made with

’ - ff turned back cu s , like her husband s , ties her shoes with strings , laces her

f so dress in ront , as to show a bright

- coloured under bodice , and , as like as not, wears a green pinner (an apron with bib , which was pinned on to the dress), f and altogether brings hersel up to date .

’ One might see the farmer s wife riding to market with her eggs in a basket covered with a corner of her red cloak , and many a red cloak would she meet

VOL . IV . 3 1 8 ENGLISH COSTUME on the way to clep with on the times and the fashions . The green apron w as a mark of a ! uaker

A of in merica, and the Society Friends was not by a ny means sad in colour until late in their history . Most notable was the neckcloth in this unhappy

’ of effr e s reign, which went by the name Judge J y hempen cravat . WILLIAM AND MARY

h rt a 8 — 0 Reigned t i een ye rs! 1 6 9 1 7 2. The K ing born in 1 65 0; the Queen born in 1662 1 m arr ied in 677. THE MEN

I R T f t he . F S and oremost , wig

Periwig, peruke , campaign wig

- with pole locks or dildos , all

all the rage , the thought of the first gentlemen Their heads loaded with curl upon

curl , long ringlets hanging over their shoulders and down w their backs , some bro n , some covered with meal until their

’ coats looked like millers coats ;

scented hair, almost hiding the

- loose tied cravat, most agree ably discoloured with snuff f ’ rom top to bottom . 1 9 3— 2

A MAN OF T H E T IM E OF WILLIAM AN D MA RY ( 1 689 1 702)

TR I NG a a ff S S g in in use on the shoes . Cu s much r a r W r r W er a b o de ; igs mo e full ; ski ts id . Co t left a a open to show the long w istco t .

WILLIAM AND MARY 21 f l of el ow high tone . The more enormous is our

f of wig, the more requently we take a pinch Violet

Strasburg or Best Brazil, Orangery, Bergamotte, or

assamena f ll J , the more shall we be o owed by persons f anxious to learn the ashion . We may even draw f a little silver bowl rom our pocket, place it on a seat by us , and , in meditative mood , spit therein . We have gone completely into skirted coats and big flapped waistcoats ; we have adopted the big cuff buttoned back ; we have given up altogether

- the wide knee breeches , and wear only breeches not f for f . tight to the leg, but just ull enough com ort The hats have altered considerably now they are

all off f cocked up at angles , turned the orehead , turned up one side, turned up all round ; some are f n ri ged with gold or silver lace, others are crowned with feathers . We hear of such a number of claret - coloured suits that we must imagine that colour to be all the rage , and, in contrast to other times not long gone by ,

k - we must stiffen ourselves in buc ram lined skirts . These powdered Absaloms could change them selves into very fine fighting creatures , and look twice as sober again when occasion demanded . They rode about the country in periwigs, certainly, but 22 ENGLISH COSTUME not quite so bushy and curled ; many of them took to the travelling or campaign wig with

- the dildos or pole locks . These wigs were full over the ears and at the sides of the fore

in head , but they were low the f crown , and the two ront ends were twisted in to single pipes of hair ; or the pipes of hair at the

side were entirely removed , and one sin gle pipe hung down the

of back. The custom thus

twisting the hair at the back , and there holdin g it with a

ribbon, gave rise to the later

pigtail . The periwigs so altered

n f were k own as short bobs , the bob being the ull ness of the hair by the cheeks of the wig. The cuffs of the coat - sleeve varied to the idea and taste of the owner of the coat ; sometimes the 1 8 sleeve was widened at the elbow to inches , and ff the cu s , turned back to meet the sleeves , were wider still . Two , three, or even more buttons held ff the cu back . The pockets on the coats were cut vertically and WILLIAM AND MARY 23

z hori ontally, and these also might be buttoned up . f O ten the coat was held by only two centre buttons , and the waistcoat flaps were

not buttoned at all . The men ’s and women ’s muffs were f small , and o ten tied and slung

with ribbons . Plain round riding coats f were worn , astened by a clasp

or a couple of large buttons . The habit of tying the neck cloth in a bow with full

hanging ends was dying out , and a more loosely tied cravat was being worn this was finished with fine lace f ends , and was requently

worn quite long. Stockings were pulled

over the knee , and were gartered below and rolled

above it . The ordinary citizen wore a modified edition of — f f these clothes plain in cut, ull , without hal the

WILLIAM AND MARY 25

THE WOMEN

Let me picture for you a lady of this time in the

of wi l language those learned in dress , and you l see how much it may benefit . We see her coming afar off ; again st the yew

f r see hedge her weeds shine o a moment . We her figuretto gown well Iooped and puffed with the

- - é l monte la haut . Her che le is beautiful , and her pinn er exquisitely worked . We can see her com

- font a e for mode, her top not , and her g , she wears A i in é . no rayonn s lver p holds her meurtriers , and the fashion suits better than did the creve

oe . ff c urs One hand holds her Saxon green mu etee,

- a under one arm is her chapeau bras . She is be u

fu she and she ti l , needs no plumpers , regards us

’ kindly with her watchet eyes .

A of lady this date would read this and enjoy it, just as a lady of to - day would understand modern l dress language, which is equa ly peculiar to the

of mere man . For example, this one the ! ueen of Spain ’s hats from her trousseau ( curiously enough a trousseau is a little bundle)

’ The hat is a paille dItalie trimmed with a pro f of i n ff usion p nk roses , accompanied by a pi k chi on

VOL . 1v . 4 26 ENGLISH COSTUME ruffle fashioned into masses bouillonnée arranged at intervals and circled with wreaths of shaded

’ roses .

so The modern terms vaguely used are shocking, and the descriptive names given to colours by dress - artists are horrible beyond belief such as Watteau pin k and ele

phant grey, not to speak

of - i Sevres blue cherr es . f However, the emale mind delights in such

- jargon and hotch potch . Let me be ki nd enough to translate our William f and Mary ashion language . ill ‘ ’ ’ Weeds is a term st in use in widow s weeds ,

of meaning the entire dress appearance a woman . A ‘ figuretto gown Iooped and puffed with the monte la - haut is a gown of figured material gathered info loops over the petticoat and stiffened out with wires

’ - - é l monte la haut . The che le is a stomacher laced with ribbons in rungs like a ladder. Her

pin ner is her apron . The commode is the wire f rame over which the curls are arranged , piled up in WILLIAM AND MARY 27

f a - high masses over the orehe d . The top not is a large bow worn at the top of the commode and the fontage or tower is a French arrangement of alternate layers of lace and ribbon raised one above

another about half a yard high . It was invented

of ! IV. in the time Louis , 1 68 0 about , by Mademoiselle

F a é ont ge . The rayonn is a

cloth hood pinned in a circle .

‘ ’ The meurtriers , or murderers . are those twists in the hair which tie or unloose the

' arrangements of curls and the creve - coeurs are the row of little forehead curls of the A ff previous reign . mu etee

ff - i s is a little mu , and a chapeau bras a hat never worn, but made to be carried under the arm by men or women ; for the men hated to disarrange their wigs . Plumpers were artificial arrangements for fill

‘ are ing out the cheeks , and watchet eyes blue eyes . The ladies have changed a good deal by the middle of this reign ! they have looped up the gown 4— 2 28 ENGLISH COSTUME till it makes side - panniers and a bag- like droop at

- the back ; the under gown has a long train , and the

- bodice is long waisted . The front of the bodice is laced

open , and shows either an arrangement of ribbon and lace or a piece of the material

o - f the under gown . Black pinners in silk with a deep frill are worn as well as

n the white lace and li en ones . The ladies wear short black capes of this stuff with a

deep frill .

Sometimes , instead of the

fonta e g , a lady wears a lace shawl over her head

l of and shou ders , or a sort lace cap bedi zened with coloured ribbons .

’ Her sleeves are like a man s , except that they come to the elbow

n - of only, showi g a white under sleeve lace gathered into a deep frill of lace just below the elbow .

WOMAN OF TH E T IM E OF WILLIAM — AND MA RY ( 1 68 9 1 702 )

’ ER E ca a fonta e a H you see the p c lled the g , the bl ck a r r and a r silk p on , the looped ski t , the h i on the high ’ ra a a f me c lled commode .

WILLIAM AND MARY 29

ff — v She is very sti and tight laced , and ery long in the waist ; and at the waist where the gown opens and at the loopings of it the

richer wear jewelled brooches . Later in the reign there began

’ a fashion for copying men s

clothes , and ladies wore wide skirted coats with deep- flapped

of pockets , the sleeves the coats down below the elbow and with

- uffs deep turned overc . They

wore , like the men, very much p u f f e d and ruf fled linen and lace at the

wrists . Also they wore ’ f men s waistcoat ashions , carried sticks and little arm

hats chapeau bras . To complete the dress the hair

- was done in a bob wig style, and the cravat was tied untr F lk Co y o . round their necks and n pi ned . For the winter one of those loose Dutch

c fur i i ja kets lined and edged with , hav ng w de sleeves . 30 ENGLISH COSTUME

ff The general tendency was to look Dutch , sti ,

r e r prim, but ve y prosp rous ; even the count y maid in her best is close upon the heel of fashion with ff her laced bodice , sleeves with cu s , apron , and high heeled shoes . ! U EEN ANNE — Reigned twelve year s! 1 702 1 71 4

d 1 8 3 ri c or 1 665 . arr 6 B n M ie , , P n e

ark Denm .

THE MEN AND WOMEN

WHE N I turn to the opening of the eighteenth

r centu y, and leave Dutch William and his Hollands

- and his pipe and his bulb gardens behind , it seems h to me t at there is a great noise, a tumultuous

of chattering. We seem to burst upon a date

f ff - ff A e o of . talk rs , co ee houses , snu and scandal ll h f m f— t is was going on be ore , I say to ysel people ff were wearing powdered wigs , and were taking snu , and were talking scandal , but it did not appeal so forcibly . We arrive at Sedan - chairs and hoops too big for

- them we arrive at red heeled shoes . Though both

chairs and red heels belong to the previous reign ,

a D OW— still , we rrive at them they are very much 31 32 ENGLISH COSTUME

f in the picture . We seem to see a pro usion , a con f of used mass bobbins and bone lace, mourning hat l bands , si k garters , amber canes correctly conducted , country men in red coats , coxcombs , brass and

- ff- looking glass snu boxes . Gentlemen walk past our mental Vision with seals curiously fancied and exquisitely well cut . Ladies are sighing at the toss of

ff- a wig or the tap on a snu box , falling sick for a pair of striped

r d ga ters or a pair of fringe gloves . Gentlemen are sitting baldheaded

- in elegant dressing gowns , while their wigs are being taken out of

ru uier roulettes . The pe q removes u the neat, warm clay t be , gives a last pat to the fine pipes of the

hair, and then gently places the

wig on the waiting gentlemen . If you can look through the walls o f London houses you will next see regiments of gentle f men, their aces pressed into glass cones , while the peruquier tosses powder over their newly

- u w put o peri igs . The bow at the end of the

A MAN OF T H E T IM E OF ! U EEN AN N E

T H E a h s r a t co t a become still mo e full the sides . h Red In T e hat has a more generous brim . heels a f shion .

QUEEN ANNE as

— long pigtail on the Ramillies wig IS tied that

is over. f i s Running ootmen , looking rather l ke Indian

f of . rom the outsides tobacco shops , speed past They

ni fr are dressed in close tu cs with a inged edge , which flicks them just above the knee . Their legs f are tied up in leather guards , their eet are strongly shod , their wigs are in small bobs . On their heads are little round caps , with a feather stuck in them . In one hand they carry a long 5 f stick about eet high , in the top knob of which they f carry some ood or a message . A message to whom ! The runnin g footman kn ocks

on a certain door, and delivers to the pretty maid a note for her ladyship from a hand

man A R nin Foot . - un g some, well shaped youth who f ff - requents the co ee houses about Charin g Cross . There is no answer to the note ! her ladyship is too ff disturbed with household a airs . Her Welsh maid ft has le her under suspicious circumstances , and has

off carried some articles . The lady is even now

VOL . IV . 5 34 ENGLISH COSTUME

writing to Mr. Bickerstaff of the Ta tler to implore his aid . — This is the list of the things she has missed at

of least , as much the list as my mind remembers as it travels back over the years

A thick wadded Calico Wrapper. A Musk- coloured Velvet Mantle lined with ’ Squirrels Skins . ft f of Eight night shi s , our pairs

stockings curiously darned . of Six pairs laced Shoes , new of and old , with the heels half 2 inches higher than their

fellows . A quilted Petticoat of the of largest size , and one Can

vas , with whalebone hoops . Three pairs of Stays boulst ered

below the left shoulder . Two pairs of Hips of the newest f ashion . A Six Roundabout prons , with ’ f stri d Pockets , and our p Muslin night f rails very little rayed . A Silver Cheese toaster with three tongues .

A silver Posnet to butter eggs . A Bible bound in Shagreen, with guilt Leaves

and Clasps , never opened but once . Cloathes of Two Leather Forehead , three pair

oiled Dogskin Gloves . QUEEN ANNE 35

of f Two brand new Plumpers , three pair ashion

able Eyebrows .

Adam and Eve in Bugle work , without Fig

leaves , upon Canvas , curiously wrought ’ with her Ladyship s own hand . of Bracelets braided Hair, Pomander, and Seed

Pearl .

A large old Purple Velvet Purse , embroidered ,

and shutting with a spring, containing two

Pictures in Miniature , the Features visible . A Silver gi lt box for Cashu and Carraway Com fi ts to be taken at long sermons . A new Gold Repeating Watch made by a

Frenchman . Together with a Collection of Receipts to make for Pastes the Hands , Pomatums , Lip

of . Salves , White Pots , and Water Talk

Of these things one strikes the eye most curiously w the canvas petticoat ith whalebone hoops . It dates the last , making me know that the good 1 1 0 woman lost her things in or about the year 7 . We are just at the begin ning of the era of the tremendous hoop skirt . This gentleman from the country will tell me all about it . I stop him and remark his clothes ; by

n them I guess he has ridden from the cou try. He is wearing a wide - skirted coat of red with deep

has f flap pockets his coat buttons rom neck to hem , 5 — 2 36 ENGLISH COSTUME

— a — but only two or three t the waist are buttoned . ff c f One hand , with the deep cu pushed ba k rom the f wrist to Show his neat rilled shirt, is thrust into his unbuttoned breeches pocket , the two pockets being across the top of his breeches . Round his neck is a black Steenki rk cravat ( a black silk tie kn otted and

l of twisted or a lowed to hang over loose). His hat is

a f hisf black, and the wide brim is turned b ck rom ore — head . His wig is a short black periwig in bobs that

is , it is gathered into bunches just on

the shoulders , and is twisted in a little f bob at the back o the neck . I have forgotten whether he wore red or blue l stockings rol ed above the knee , but

either is likely . His shoes are strong,

- high heeled , and have a big tongue

showing above the buckle . f He tells me that in Nor olk, where

f has he has come rom , the hoop not come into fashion that ladies there dress much as they did before ! ueen Anne

font a e came to the throne . The g is lower,

s k perhap , the waist may be longer, but s irts are full and have long trains , and are gathered in

of loops to show the petticoat silk . with its deep

A WOMAN OF T H E T IME OF ! U EEN — ANNE ( 1 70 2 1 71 4)

N OT I C E a fon ta e has r th t the g become much lowe , and the hoop of the ski rt has become enormous . e r 1 r a ra r Th hai 5 mo e n tu lly d essed .

QUEEN ANNE 37

A floun c s. double row of e prons are worn long, ff ’ and have good pockets . Cu s are deep , but are

of lowered to below the elbow . The bodice the f gown is cut high in the back and low in ront ,

f l of and is decked with a deep ri l lace or linen , f which allows less bare neck to show than ormerly . A very observant gentleman ! But you have

’ ! a k seen the new hoop I s him .

Ye s A S , he has seen it . he rode into town he noticed that the old fashions

gave way to new , that every mile brought the fontage lower and the

hair more hidden , until short curls and a little cap of linen or lace entirely replaced the old high head dress and the profusion of curls on

the shoulders . The hoop , he noticed , became larger and larger as he n w eared the to n , and the train grew shorter, and the patterns on the under- skirt grew larger w ith the hoop . I leave my gentleman from the country and

I stroll about the streets to regard the fashions .

see of ew Here , I , is a gentleman in one the n — Ramillies wigs a wig of white hair drawn back 38 ENGLISH COSTUME from the forehead and puffed out full over the ears . At the back the wig is gathered into a

of long queue, the plaited or twisted tail a wig, and is ornamented at the top and bottom of the queue with a ! M U E BLAC K black bow . 4 ” ST EENKIRK I notice that this gentleman is dressed in more easy fashion

than some. His coat

is not buttoned, the flaps of his w aist coat are not over

big, his breeches are

easy, his tie is loose . I know where this gentleman has stepped from he has come straight

of of of out a sampler mine, by means which piece of needlework I can get his story with

n out book . I k ow that he has a tremendous periwig at home covered with scented powder ; I know that he has an elegant suit with fullness of the skirts, at his sides gathered up to a button of of silver gilt ; there is plenty lace on this coat . QUEEN ANNE 39

and ff deep bands of it on the cu s . He has also ,

I am certain , a cane with an amber head very

curiously clouded , and this cane he hangs on to ft his fi h button by a blue silk ribbon . This cane t is never used except to lif it up at a coachman,

of n hold it over the head a drawer, or poi t out

t of . Al the circums ances a story so , he has a single w eyeglass , or perspective , which he ill advance to

his eye to gaze at a toast or an orange wench . — There is another figure on the sampler a lady in one of those Wide hoops ; she has a fan in her

n hand . I k ow her as well as

the gentleman , and know that she can use her fan as becomes

n a prude or a coquette . I k ow she takes her chocolate in bed

at nine in the morning, at eleven she drinks a dish of

bohea, tries a new head at

’ her twelve o clock toilette , and at two cheapens fans at

the Change .

' I have seen her at her mantua - makers ; I have watched her embroider a corner of her flower f i f handkerchie , and give it up to s t be ore her 40 ENGLISH COSTUME

glass to determin e a patch . She is a good coach

a woman , and puts her dainty laced shoe gainst the Opposite seat to balance herself against the many jolts ; meanwhile she takes her mask off for If a look at the passing world . only I could ride in the coach with her ! If only I could I should see the fruit wenches in sprigged petticoats

- and flat , broad brimmed hats ; the ballad - sellers in tattered long skirt ed coats ; the country women

in black hoods and cloaks , and f the men in rieze coats . The ladies k would pass by in pearl nec laces , a flowered stomachers , artifici l fu nosegays , and shaded rbelows

ff, ( Lu- 1; ( L1! ( 1 ( one is noted by her mu one by

fan . her tippet , one by her Here ( ! HILLA a gentleman bows to our coach ,

’ see a and my lady s heart beats to his open waistco t , f o . his red heels , his suit flowered satin I should not fail to notice the monstrous petticoats worn by ff ladies in chairs or in coaches , these hoops stu ed ff i out with cordage and sti ened w th whalebone, and , ff according to Mr . Bickersta , making the women look like extinguishers with a little knob at the QUEEN ANNE 4 1

it upper end , and widening downward till ends in a

’ of f basis a most enormous circum erence .

. . ff To finish I quite agree with Mr Bickersta , when he mentions the great shoe - shop at the

’ of St . James s end Pall Mall, that the shoes there displayed , notably the slippers with green lace and blue heels , do create irregular thoughts in the youth of this nation .

VOL . IV. GEORGE THE FIRST

—1 2 Reigned thir teen yea rs 1 71 4 7 7.

r 1 68 2 o h a of r w ck . 1 0. a r Bor n 66 M ied , , S p i B uns i

THE MEN AND WOMEN

W E cannot do better

than open Thackeray, and put a finger on this passage There is the Lion ’s

Head , down whose jaws the Spectator’s own let ters were passed ; and

’ over a great banker s in Fleet Street the effi gy of

f of the wallet, which the ounder the firm bore when he came into London a country boy . People this

so of w street , ornamented with crowds s inging

n chairmen , with servants bawli g to clear the way , with Mr. Dean in his cassock, his lacquey marching 42 GEORGE THE FIRST 43

f be ore him ; or Mrs . Dinah in her sack , tripping to f ’ chapel , her ootboy carrying her ladyship s great

prayer book ; with itinerant tradesmen , singing

n f their hu dred cries ( I remember orty years ago , as

of f a boy in London city, a score cheery, amiliar

cries that are Silent now). Fancy the beaux thronging to the chocolate

n ff- houses , tappi g their snu boxes as they issue

n thence, their periwig appeari g over the red

n a curtai s . Fancy S ccharissa beckoning and smiling f of rom the upper windows , and a crowd soldiers — bawling and bustlin g at the door gentlemen of

f f n the Li e Guards , clad in scarlet with blue aci gs , and laced with gold at the seams ; gentlemen of

s of - the Horse Grenadiers , in their cap sky blue f cloth , with the garter embroidered on the ront in

of gold and silver ; men the Halberdiers , in their ff ft long red coats , as blu Harry le them , with their

’ ff - ru s and velvet flat caps . Perhaps the King s

’ ’

f . Majesty himsel is going to St . James s as we pass

find We ourselves , very willingly, discussing the ” shoes of the King of France with a crowd of powdered beaux ; those shoes the dandyism of 6— 2

E F E R E I A MAN OF T H E T IM O G O G . — ( 1 71 4 1 727)

T H E buckles on the shoes are now much larger the are r a T he stockings loosely olled bove the knee . r a r and and r g e t pe iwig is going out , the looped cu led W r a r . ig , ve y white with powde is in f shion

GEORGE THE FIR ST 45

— to foot this great cloak with a piquant history of

- of prison breaking ; here , with a clatter high red

heels , the beau , the everlasting beau , in gold lace ,

ff f r n . of wide cu s , ull ski ts , swi ging cane A scene

flashing colours . The coats embroidered with

ff of flowers and butterflies , the cu s a mass fine

- sewing , the three cornered hats cocked at a jaunty

angle , the stockings rolled above the

o f knee . Wigs in three divisions loops w at the back pass by , igs in long wi queues , gs in back and side bobs .

- e Lacquer hilted swords , paste buckl s , gold and silver snuff- boxes flashing in

sun the , which struggles through the

of w mass s inging signs . There is a cu rious sameness about the clean - shaven faces surmounted by — white wigs ; there is if we believe the — pictures a tendency to fat due to the tight waist of the breeches or the

of The buckling the belts . ladies wear little lace and linen caps , their hair

i so n escaping in a r nglet or at the side , and flowi g w do n behind , or gathered close up to a small knob

’ on the head . The gentlemen s coats fall in full 46 ENGLISH COSTUME f olds on either side ; the back , at present, has not begun to stick out so heavily with buckram . l for . n Aprons ladies are still worn Si ks and sati s , brocades and fine cloths , white wigs powdering

of - velvet shoulders , crowds cut throats, elegant

A s asias gentlemen , patched p , tavern swindlers , f f oreign adventurers , thieves , a highwayman , a oot — pad , a poor poet and narrow streets and mud .

see Everywhere we the skirted coat , the big

fla ed - pp waistcoat ; even beggar boys , little pot high urchins , are wearing some old laced waistcoat tied — with string about their middles a

of - pair heel trodden , buckleless shoes

f - f . on their eet , more likely bare ooted Here is a man snatched from the

tripe - shop in Hanging Sword Alley

’ — a by the King s men pickpocket, a

- n . highwayman , a cut throat in hidi g He will repent his jokes on Jack Ketch ’ s kitchen when he feels the lash of the whip on his naked shoulders — as he screams behind the cart tail ;

di st0 la es in flowered hoops will p to look at him , ll ft beaux wi li their quizzing glasses , a young girl

l fan of wil whisper behind a , painted with the loves GEOR GE THE FIRST 47

fo - Jove , to a gorgeous young p in a light buttoned

- coat of sky blue .

There is a sadder sight to come , a cart on the f l f way to Tyburn , a poor el ow standing by his co fin with a nosegay in his breast ; he is full of for as Dutch courage , , becomes a notorious highwayman, he must Show

f w so f game be ore the cro d , he is ull of stum and Yorkshire stingo . Maybe we stop to see a pirate hanging in i chains by the r ver , and we are jostled by horse officers and

watermen , revenue men

and jerkers , and , as

usual, the curious beau .

his glass to his eye . Never was such a time for curiosity ! a man is preaching mystic religion ; there is a n ew flavour to the Rainbow Tavern furmity ; there is a fellow who can sew with his toes ; a man is in the pillory for publishing Jacobite ballads and always there is the beau looking on .

il l in f Country ladies , st l in smal hoops , even ull

1 A WOMAN OF T H E T IM E OF GEORGE . — ( 1 71 4 1 727) YOU Will see that the fontage has given way to a

ca The a r 15 ra r a . sm all lace p . h i d wn off the fo ehe d r a r T he hoop of the ski t is still l ge .

GEOR GE THE FIRST 49

n f s flowered tabbies and fine lutestri g, are the a hions passed on . Just as Sir Roger de Coverley nearly called a

’ — ‘ sir of young lady in riding dress , because the

f of of upper hal her body, so the ladies this day

’ for might well be taken sirs , with their double breasted

n - ridi g coats like the men , and their hair in a queue sur mounted by a cocked hat . Colours and combinations of colours are very striking petticoats of black satin covered with large bunches of worked flowers , morning gown of yellow flowered satin faced with cherry

of coloured bands , waistcoats one colour with a

’ f of s- e ringe another, bird Ey hoods , bodices covered — with gold lace and embroidered flow ers all these but gave a gay, artificial appearance to the age ; we l are to become still more quaintly devised , sti l more

in . powdered and patched , the next reign

I VOL . . V GEORGE THE SECOND

th rt - thr ar ! 1 2 —1 0 Reigned i y ee ye s 7 7 76 . or 1 8 3 a . rr 1 05 ar f 6 7 o o ach . B n M ied , , C line Ansp

THE MEN

U T few see J S a names of wigs , and you will how the periwig has gone into the background , how the bobwig has superseded the campaign - wig ; you

’ will find a veritable confusion o f barbers enthu siasms f- f , hal orgotten designs , names dependent f on a twist . a lock, a care ul disarrangement

’ - of pigeon s wing wigs with wings hair at the sides ,

f l cauliflow ers comets with long, u l tails , with a

f of - pro usion curls , royal bind wigs , staircase wigs , b C ladders , rushes , ount Saxe wigs , cut bobs , long

- - n e li ent s . bobs , g g , chain buckles , drop wigs , bags

’ Go and look at Hogarth ; there s a world of dress for you by the grim humori st who painted Sarah

Malcolm , the murderess , in her cell ; who painted

’ n Taste in High Life . Wigs i exhaustible subject — wigs passing from father to son until they arrived 5 0 GEORGE THE SECOND 5 1

- at the second hand dealers in Monmouth Street, and ft f there, a er a rough overhauling, began a new li e . There was a wig lottery at Sixpence a ticket in R osemary Lane, and with even ordinary wigs Grizzle Majors at twenty - fi ve shillings , Great T y e s a t a guinea , and B ro wn B ag wigs at fifteen s h i l l i n g s quite a con siderable sav ing might be made by the lucky lottery winn er.

O n w i g s , f hats cocked to suit the passing ashion, broad

- - brimmed , narrow brimmed , round, three cornered ,

- - off the high brimmed, low brimmed , turned high f f orehead , turned low in ront and high at the back

— an for for endless crowd . Such a day clothes ,

h and patc es, politics , Tory side and Whig to your 7— 2

E E A MAN OF T H E T IM OF GEORG II . ( 1 727 1 760 )

NOTI CE a ff a nd r r the he vy cu s , the ve y full ski ts a arr a cli a ea u br as r of the co t . He c ies p unde his arm—a hat for arr c ying only , since he will not r ffl ar a a a u e his wig. He we s bl ck s tin tie to his wig , O f r are a the ends which tie come ound his neck , m de

a and r a a r . into bow , b ooched with solit i e

GEORGE THE SECOND 5 3

of n of the cut coat you may not k ow the date it, 1 4 5 then , when you pass it in the street . From 7

i - there beg ns the same jumble as to day , a hopeless

‘ n ex r nl thing to unravel ; in the eign , certai y , you may tell yourself here is one of the new Maca ronies of , but that will be all you will mark out the

of f — crowd ashions one more remarkable , newer than the rest , but perhaps you have been in the

for country a week , and a new mode has come in and is dying out . From coat let us look at waist l coat . Fu l flaps and long almost to n 1 5 6 the k ees ; but again, about 7 , l they wi l be shorter. They are f ringed , flowered , laced , open to h f l so S ow the lace cravat a l daintily, to Show the black velvet bow- tie that comes over from the black

of velvet, or silk , or satin tie the

f of of all queue . Ru fles lace , qualities , at the

’ ff- wrists , the beau s hand emerging with his snu box from a filmy froth of white lace . — In this era of costume from George I . to — George IV . the great thing to remember is that the coat changes more than anything else ; from 5 4 ENGLISH COSTUME

ff ff the sti William and Mary coat with its deep , sti ff 1 cu s, you see the change towards the George .

of coat, a looser cut the same design , still simple in embroideries ; then the coat skirts are gathered to a button at each side of the coat just behind the

’ II s pockets . Then , in George . reign , the skirt hangs l f in paral el olds free from the button , and shapes to

of f the back more closely, the opening the coat, rom the neck to the

so waist , being cut as to hang over the buttons and Show the cravat

and the waistcoat .

Then , later in the

same reign, we see the coat with the skirts free of buck ram and very full

all round , and the cuffs also free of stiffening and fold

of 1 4 5 ing with the crease the elbow . Then , about 7 ,

ft for bean we get the coat le more open , and , the , cut much shorter— this often worn over a double GEORGE THE SECOND 5 5

GEORGE THE SECOND 5 7

n resplendent morning gown richly laced , a morni g f cap , and very com ortable embroidered slippers ,

of — such mixtures clothes in his wardrobe his coat ,

- f o f no doubt , a little over ull , but good cloth , his

- - fine clothes rather over embroidered , his tie wig

ft far f so o en pushed too back on his orehead , and showing his cropped hair underneath . ff Mu s must be remembered , as every dandy carried ff a mu in winter, some big, others grotesquely small .

Bath must be remembered , and the great Beau — Nash in the famous Pump - Room as Thackeray

’ so sa says , y I I should like to have seen the Folly, he says , meaning Nash It was a splendid em

beruffled ff- - broidered , , snu boxed , red heeled, imper tinent f Folly, and knew how to make itsel respected . I should like to have seen that noble old madcap Peterborough in his boots ( he actually had the audacity to walk a bout Bath in boots wi th his n blue ribbo and stars , and a cabbage under each arm , and a chicken in his hand , which he had been f ’ cheapening or his dinner. It was the fashion to wear new clothes on the ’ 1 ! ueen s birthday, March , and then the streets noted the loyal people who indulged their ext rava f gance or pushed a new ashion on that day .

v oL . IV . 8 5 8 ENGLISH COSTUME

D o not forget that no hard - and - fast rules can be

’ laid down a man s a man for all his tailor tells him f he is a walking ashion plate . Those who liked

ff for short cu s wore them , those who did not care

of solitaires did without ; the height a heel , the breadth o f a

buckle, the sweep

of all a skirt , lay at the taste of the owner merely would I have you rememb er th e

essentials . There was a deal of dressing u — p the King,

bless you , in a — Turkish array at a masque the day of the Corydon

! and Sylvia mock shepherd , dainty shepherdess was il here ; my lord in s k loose coat with paste buttons , f - ringed waistcoat , little three cornered hat under his ff arm, and a pastoral sta between his fingers , a crook covered with cherry and blue ribbons and my lady

of ff in such a hoop sprigged silk or some such stu ,

of the tiniest straw hat on her head , high heels GEORGE THE SECOND

c u e s

F T H E F E R E II A WOMAN O T IM E O G O G . — ( 1 727 1 760 )

r N S H E is wearing a large pinner over her d ess . otice ar a r W f be the l ge p nnie s , the sleeves ithout cu fs , tied ca and r r . p, the sho tness of the ski ts

GEORGE THE SECOND 61

to ach r a nd ar ts S m e s, P is ne , arr s ck ac s a r ts E ing , ne l e , ig e , r s b o s a nd mi n ionets F inge , l u es, g ;

r o for the ch k Fine ve milli n ee , V t atch s a la r c elve p e g e que . ’ o but o t for t the o es C me, d n ge gl v , h ch th all the s o W i , wi miling l ves, Venus caught young Cupid picking ’ ro he r s of k F m t tender b ea t chic en .

I think it will be best to describe a lady

of of quality . In the first years the reign she i ul st ll wears the large hoop skirt , a circ ar whale

at bone arrangement started the waist , and , at i n t e rva l s , the hoops were placed so that the p e t t i c o a t St o o d o u t al l r o u n d like a bell overthis the skirt hung stiff and solemn . The bodice was tight f f laced , cut square in ront where the neckerchie ft of linen or lace made the edge so . The sleeves ff n still retained the cu coveri g the elbow, and the ENGLISH COSTUME GEORGE THE SECOND 63

under- sleeve o f linen with lace frills came half f way down the orearm , leaving bare arm and

wrist to show . k Over the s irt she would wear, as her taste

held her, a long, plain apron , or a long , tucked

apron , or an apron to her knees . The bodice

f of w generally ormed the top a gown , which go n

f - a d v so was very ull skirted , n was di ided as to f hang back behind the dress , showing, o ten , very

little in front . This will be seen clearly in the

illustrations .

The hair is very tightly gathered up behind ,

of twisted into a small knob on the top the head , and either drawn straight back from the forehead

in w f e or parted the middle , allo ing a small ring

to hang on the temples . Nearly every woman wore a small cap or a small round straw hat with

a ribbon round it .

’ The lady s shoes would be high - heeled and

- pointed toed , with a little buckle and strap . About the middle of the reign the sacque f became the general town ashion , the sacque being

so of f f named on account the back , which ell rom w f the shoulders into ide, loose olds over the hooped

petticoat . The sacque was gathered at the back

GEORGE THE SECOND 65 of f their new uni orm . So did the navy go into b lue and white .

of The poorer classes were not , course , dressed in hooped skirts , but the bodice and gown over ff the petticoat, the apron , and the turned back cu to the short sleeve were worn by all . The orange wench laced her gown neatly, and wore a white cloth tied over her head ; about her shoulders she wore a

f of kerchie white , and often a plain frill of

n li en at her elbows . There were blue can vas , striped dimity,

for flannel, and ticken the humble ; for the

Padesois s rich , lustrings, satins , , velvets , dama ks , f of i n ans and Leghorn hats , bands Valenc en es and Point de Dunquerque— these might be bought

of . Mrs Holt, whose card Hogarth engraved , at the Two Olive Posts in the Broad part of the

Strand . Seventeen hundred and fifty - fi ve saw the one 9 VOL . 1 v . 66 ENGLISH COSTUME

f l horse chairs introduced rom France , ca led

of cabriolets , the first our own extraordinary wild - looking conveyances contrived for the min i

of f of mum com ort and the maximum danger . This invention captivated the hearts of both men

and women . The men painted cabriolets on

their waistcoats , they embroidered them on their

stockings , they cut them out in black silk and

patched their cheeks with them , horse and all ;

”the women began to take up , a little later, the o cabriolet caps with r und sides like linen wheels ,

the of and later still , at very end the reign , there

for - — - began a craze such head dresses post chaises , chairs and chairmen . even waggons , and —this craze — in grew and grew, and hair grew wigs to meet

- of- for the cry for hair and straw men war , loads

of for of for hay, birds paradise , goodness knows

f of di of what orms utter absur ty , all which I put

o f down to the introduction the cab . I! I think that I can best describe the lady o f

this day as a swollen , skirted figure with a pinched

of n waist , little head hair, or tiny cap , developi g into a loose sacque—backed figure still whaleboned ff out , with hair pu ed at the sides and powdered , getting ready to develop again into a queer figure GEORGE THE SECOND 67

of for under a tower hair, but that waits the

next reign .

’ One cannot do better than go to H ogarth s prints — and pictures wonderful — records of this time one l picture especial y, Taste f ’ in High Li e , being a fine record of the clothes of 1 74 2 here you will see

the panier and the sacque, ff the monstrous mu , the

h00 - huge p, the long tailed w i g, the black boy and the

of monkey . In the Noon the Four Parts of the Day there are clothes again satirized . I am trustin g that the drawings will supply what

f — for my words have ailed to picture , and I again the

- first — twenty time repeat that , given the cut and the

of s idea the time, the tudent has always to realize that there can be no hard - and - fast rule about the fashions ; with the shape he can take liberties up to the points shown , with colour he can do anything

of patterns the materials are obtainable , and

Hogarth will give anything required in detail . 9— 2

MAN H E T E R E A OF T I—M OF GEO G III . ( 1 760 1 8 20 )

TH E l - r a r has fu l ski ted co t , though still wo n , given wa ral a - a T he a a y, in gene , to the t il co t . w istco t is B a r and much shorter . l ck Silk knee b eeches stockings are very general .

GEORGE THE THIRD 69 70 ENGLISH COSTU ME

r n — first the ordina y wig, skirted coat, k ee breeches ,

- chapeau bras, cravat or waistcoat , of the man about Of town . I do not mean the exquisite about town , if but, you will take it kindly, just such clothes as h you or I might ave worn .

see f In the second drawing we a ashionable man , who might have strutted past the first fellow in

- the Park . His hair is dressed in a twisted roll ;

- f he wears a tight brimmed little hat , a rogged coat , f a ringed waistcoat , striped breeches , and buckled shoes .

In the third we see the dress of a Macaroni . On his absurd wig he wears a little Nevernoise hat ; his cravat is tied i n a bow ; his breeches are

of loose, and beribboned at the knee . Many these Macaronis wore coloured strings at the knee of f their breeches , but the ashion died away when Jack ’ l f Rann , Sixteen String Jack, as he was cal ed a ter

f i of . this ash on, had been hung in this make breeches In number four we see the development of the

- - tail coat and the high buttoned waistcoat . The t - of f - ail coat is , course , son to the rock coat, the

for n skirts of which , being inconvenient ridi g, had first been buttoned back and then cut back to give more play.

GEORGE THE THIRD 71

In the fifth drawing we see the double- breasted

- cut away coat .

fu - Number six is but a rther tail coat design . Number seven shows how different were the

for styles at one time . Indeed , except the M f acaroni and other extreme ashions , the entire budget of men as shown might have formed a crowd in the Park on one day about twenty years f be ore the end of the reign . There would not be

ft 1 95 few much powdered hair a er 7 , but a examples would remain . A distinct change is shown in the eighth draw

of - l f ing the long tai ed , ull coat , the broad hat , the hair powdered , but not tied . Number nine is another example of the same style . The tenth dr awing shows the kin d of bat we w f associate ith Napoleon , and , in act, very Napo leonic garments . In eleven we have a di stinct change in the appearance of English dress . The gentleman is

! - so l f . a ebra, and is cal ed rom his striped clothes

is of in of f He , course, the extreme ashion, which did not last for long; but it shows a tendency

— - towards later Georgian appearance the top hat ,

MAN TH E T E E R E III A OF IM OF G O G . ( 1 76o - 1 8 2o )

T H E a and h ve gone , now the sleeve is left The a and unbuttoned a t the w rist . co t is long full r f The ra a ski ted , but not stif ened . c v t is loosely tied . a nd r T r r i t! the f illed ends stick out . hese f ills we e ,

a r and r a r . the end , m de onthe Shi t , we e c lled chitte lings

GEOR GE THE THIR D 73

- the shorter hair, the larger neck cloth , the panta — ’ — Ic ons forerunners of Brummell s invention the

open sleeve . Number twelve shows us an ordinary gentleman

in a coat and waistcoat , with square flaps , called

’ dog s ears . As the drawings continue you can see that the

dress became more and more simple , more like i modern even ng dress as to the coats , more like ff f modern sti ashion about the neck.

’ The drawings of the women s dresses should

for also speak themselves . You may watch the growth of the wig and the decline of the hoop

I trust with ease . You may see those towers of

’ of hair which there are so many stories . Those

of ffi masses meal and stu ng, powder and pomatum ,

of T the dressing which took many hours . hose

l of f pi es decorated , per umed , reeking mess , by which a lady could show her fancy for the navy

a for by balancing a straw ship on her he d , sport

for by showing a coach , gardening by a regular

of . bed flowers Heads which were only dressed ,

re perhaps , once in three weeks , and were then

w a scented because it s necessary . Monstrous

of - germ gatherers horse hair, hemp wool , and

VOL . IV . 1 0 74 ENGLISH COSTUME

of powder, laid on in a p aste, the cleaning which f f is too aw ul to give in ull detail . Three

’ ’ ‘ weeks , says my lady s hairdresser, is as long as

a head can go well in the summer without being open edf Then we go on to the absurd idea which came over womankin d that it was most becomi ng to

GEOR GE THE THIRD 75

ff look like a pouter pigeon . She took to a bu on ,

fin e f a gauze or linen kerchie , which stuck out

- f pigeon like in ront , giving an exaggerated bosom

f of 1 8 6 to those who wore it . With this ashion 7

- came the broad brimmed hat . Travel a little further and you have the mob cap .

of f All a sudden out go hoops , ull skirts , high

buffon s - hair, powder, , broad brimmed hats , patches .

- high heeled shoes , and in come willowy figures and thin , nearly transparent dresses , turbans , low

f s ! shoes , straight ringe ! I am going to give a chapter from a fashion

o u book , to show y how impossible it is to deal

of f with the vagaries ashion in the next reign, and if I chose to occupy the space, I could give a similar chapter to make the confusion of this reign more f con ounded .

1 0 2

D R A IVIN G S T O I L L U ST R A TE T H E C OST U M E T H E

R E I GN

GEOR GE THE THI RD

’ ’ ‘ — FIRS I FOR I Y E IGH T D R A WINGS BY TH E A UT H OR A ND

R E MA I NING TWE L VE BY

FA TH ER A ND S ON

T The N a he K . ing . vy

The r . P r A my ensione s . T he r . T he Law Chu ch .

T he a . r St ge The U nive sities .

GEOR GE THE FOURTH 77

of — a new, adorable , ardently desired hat . Perhaps those nine proverbial tailors who go to make the

of one proverbial man , least his sex , might, by a

u ff of strenuo s e ort, confine the history clothes during this reign into a compact literature of forty

volumes . It would be indecent , as undecorous as

’ the advertisements in ladies papers , to attempt to fathom the language of the man who endeavoured to rea d the monumental effigy to the vanity of

for human desire adornment . But is it adorn ment Nowadays t obe dressed well is not always the

ft n is far same thing as to be well dressed . O e it f of of rom it . The question modern clothes is one great perplexity. It seems that what is beauty one year may be the abomination o f desolation the

of next , because the trick that beauty has become ff common property. You pu your hair at the sides , you are in the true sanctum of the mode ; you

ff for pu your hair at the sides , you are ever utterly

n cast out as one havi g no understanding. I shall not attempt to explain it ! it passes beyond the

of of realms explanation into the pure air Truth . A i The Truth is simple . ristocracy be ng no longer

’ nl f o f real , but o y a cult , one is a raid one s servants . 78 ENGLISH COSTUME

n uff Your serva t p s her hair at the sides , and , hang h l it ! s e becomes exactly ike an aristocrat . Our

’ servant having dropped her g s for many years as

’ ’ It s n s well as her , it behoved us to pronou ce our g

’ n and our h s. Our servants havi g learned our

’ li for s Eng sh , it became necessary us to drop our g ;

n of b we seem at present unwilli g in the matter the , but that will come .

- To cut the cackle and come to the clothes horse , let me say that the bunglement of clothes which

’ V S passes all comprehension in King George I . reign is best explained by my cuttings from the f book o one who apparently knew . Let the older h his writer ave , or her, fling in his , or her, words .

CUROSY REMARK S ON TH E LAST NEW

FASHIONS .

‘ of The City London is now, indeed , most splendid in it s buildings and extent ; London is carried into the country ; but never was it more deserted . few A very , very years ago, and during the m of of sum er, the dresses the wives and daughters our opulent tradesmen would furnish subjects for the investigators of fashion . GEORGE THE FOURTH 79

if Now, those who chance to remain in London ’ take a day s excursion of about eight or ten miles di f stance rom the Metropolis , they hear the inn keepers deprecating the steamboats , by which they n declare they are almost rui ed on Sundays , which would sometimes bring them the clear profits o f ten or twenty pounds , they now scarce produce ten i shill ngs . No ; those of the middle class belonging to Cockne I slan d y must leave town , though the days f are short , and even getting cold and com ortless the steamboats carrying them o ff by shoals to Margate and its vicinity . The pursuit after elegant and superior modes of dress must carry us farther ; it is now from the rural retirement of the country seats belonging to the noble and wealthy that we must collect them . but Young ladies wear their hair well arranged , not quite with the Simplicity that prevailed last of month during the warmth the summer months , the braids across the forehead were certainly the f of best ; but now, when neither in ear heat or damp , the curls again appear in numerous clusters f round the ace ; and some young ladies , who seem f of to place their chie pride in a fine head hair, have such a multitude of small ringlets that give to what is a natural charm all the p oodle - like appear of ance a wig.

GEORGE THE FOURTH 8 1

of ff Dresses Indian red , either in ta ety or chintz ,

have already made their appearance , and are ex pect ed to be much in favour the ensuin g winter ; the chintzes have much black in their patterns but li this ght material will , in course , be soon laid aside for ff silks , and these , like the ta eties which have l ! partial y appeared , will no doubt be plain with Canez on these dresses was worn a spencer , with of long sleeves white muslin, trimmed with narrow

lace .

Gros de Naples dresses are very general , espe

ciall for - for f y receiving dinner parties , and riendly

evening society . o f At private dances , the only kind ball that has of at present taken place , are worn dresses the white - figured gauze over white satin or gros de Naples at the theatricals sometimes performed by of noble amateurs , the younger part the audience, l who do not take a part, are general y attired in w very clear muslin , over white satin , ith drapery f o baré e l . scarves lace , g , or thick embroidered tul e

Cachemire shawls , with a white ground , and a of f pattern coloured flowers or green oliage, are l now much worn in outdoor costumes , especial y for the morning walk ; the mornings being rather l indis en s chi ly, these warm envelopes are almost p

. We able are sorry, however, to find our modern

VOL . Iv . 1 1 8 2 ENGLISH COSTUME

so belles tardy in adopting those coverings , which ought now to succeed to the light appendages of summer costume . Canez on fi chu The muslin spencer, the silk , baré e f and even the lighter g , are requently the sole additions to a high dress , or even to one but o partially s . We have lately seen finished to the order of a of of ff lady rank in the county Su olk , a very

fu of - beauti l pelisse jonquil coloured gros de Naples . f f f It astens close down rom the throat to the eet , fr in ont , with large covered buttons ; at a suitable distance on each side of this fastening are three f bias olds , rather narrow, brought close together under the belt, and enlarging as they descend to the border of the Skirt . A large pelerine cape is made to take on and off ; and the bust from the back of each shoulder is ornamented with the same f f in f of bias olds , orming a stomacher ront the a la M ar ie few waist . The sleeves , , are puckered a inches above the wrist , and confined by three straps ; each with a large button . Though long ends are f very much in avour with silk pelerines , yet there are quite as many that are quite round ; such was the black satin pelerine we cited above . Coloured bonnets are now all the rage w e are sa happy to y that some , though all too large, are in the charming cottage style, and are modestly tied GEORGE THE FOURTH 8 3

so under the chin . Some bonnets are excessively large that they are obliged to be placed quite at the back of the head and as their extensive brims ll wi not support a veil, when they are ornamented l of f l with a broad b ond , the edge that just al s over the hair, but does not even conceal the eyes . Leghorn hats are very general ; their trimmings of consist chiefly ribbons , though some ladies add a few branches of green foliage between the bows or puffs ! these are chiefly of the fern ; a great improvement to these green branches is the having w a fe wild roses intermingled .

The most admired colours are lavender, Ester

- hazy, olive green , lilac , marshmallow blossom , and

Indian red . A fét es of t rural , the ornaments the hats gene rally consist of flowers these hats are backward in f of the Arcadian ashion, and discover a wreath ba n au ea! de . small flowers on the hair, In Paris the

- most admired colours are ethereal blue , Hortensia ,

- - r cameleopard yellow, pink, grass g een , jonquil, and ’ - — S e tember 1 1 8 2 Parma violet . p , 7 Really this little fashion book is very charming

for it recreates , me , the elegant simpering ladies ; it gives , in its style , just that artificial note which conjures this age of ladies with hats in the charm

’ ing cottage style , modestly tied under the chin . 1 1 — 2

GEOR GE THE FOURTH 8 5 i of - g ve a picture a country dinner party, and end your work with a description of the gentlemen under the table being relieved of their stocks by the faithful family butler .

POWDER AND PATCHES

The a ff ct at o o f a o t o set off th r b a t e i n m le, ei e u y, ’ a such a s Venus h d.

’ At the devill s Shopps you buy ’ r of o r ha r A d esse p wde ed y e .

From the splendid pageant of history what figures come to you most willingly ! Does a great pro cession go by the window of your mind Knights

sun of n bronzed by the Palestine , ki gs in chains ,

- l emperors in blood drenched purple , poets c othed like grocers With the souls o f angels shining

f of in through their eyes , ussy Secretaries State , f f ormers , spies , inquisitors , Court cards come to li e,

ff of harlequins , statesmen in great ru s , wives Bath

f - in oot mantles and white wimples , sulky Puritans , laughing Cavaliers , Dutchmen drinking gin and

- talking politics , men in wide skirted coats and — huge black periwigs all walking, riding, being

- f of carried in coaches , in sedan chairs , over the ace 8 6 ENGLISH COSTUME

of England . Every step the procession yields wonderful dreams of colour ; in every group there

of is one who , by the personality his clothes , can

of claim the name beau .

of Near the tail the throng there is a chattering,

c bowing, rustling rowd , dimmed by a white mist o f - scented hair powder . They are headed , I think — — for one cannot see too clearly by the cook of ll the Comte de Be emare, a man by name Legros , U the great hairdresser. nder his arm is a book,

of A ff the title which reads , rt de la Coi ure des

’ Fra Dames n caises. Behind him is a lady in an enormous hoop her hair is dressed a la belle Poule she is arguing some minute point of the disposition of L eonar d patches with Monsieur , another artist ! ’ in hair. What will be the next wear she asks .

’ A — l assassin e heart near the eye , eh Or a star — ! near the lips la f r ip onn e Must I wear a g a la nte

’ e ouee di la on my cheek , an nj in my mple, or

’ majestueuse on my forehead ! Before we can hear the reply another voice is raised , a guttural German

of E rz e voice it is John Schnorr, the ironmaster g f ’ binge . The eet stuck in it , I tell you , he says actually stuck ! I got from my saddle and looked at the ground . My horse had carried me on to GEORGE THE FOUR TH 8 7

of i - what proved to be a mine wealth . Ha r powder

I sold it in Dresden , in Leipsic ; and then , at

Meissen , what does Bottcher do but use my hair powder to make white porcelain !’ And so the chatter goes on . Here is Charles Fox tapping the ground with his red heels and proclaiming, in a voice thick with wine , on the merits of blue hair

f f - powder ; here is Brummell , ree rom hair powder, free from the obnoxious necessity of going with his regiment to Manchester.

The dressy , person and the person who is well — dressed these two showing everywhere . The one is

of in a screaming hue woad , the other a quiet note of blue dye the one in excessive velvet sleeves that

i c he cannot manage , the other controll ng a ri h amplitude of material with perfect grace . Here a liripipe is extravagantly long ; here a gold circlet decorates curled locks with matchless taste . Every where the battle between taste and gaudiness .

of High hennins , steeples millinery, stick up out of of the crowd below these, the towers powdered hair bow and sw ay a s the fine ladies patter along.

of What a rustle and a bustle silks and satins , of flowered tabbies , rich brocades , cut velvets ,

n of superfi e cloths, woollens , cloth gold

GEOR GE THE FOURTH 8 9 anecdotes which are given a place in every respect able work on your subject To appease the appetites which are always

for of hungry skeletons , I give a short list those books which have proved most useful

otto a . MS . C n , Cl udius , B . iv

03. a r sh h c . ar . 6 t t t r . MS H l , Ps l e , Engli , eleven en u y he a a x a r T B ye u T pest y .

b r u . . a t r tto . MS . Co n , Ti e i s , C vi Ps l e

R 1 1 us ra b a r a b . t t . . . . 7 . MS T in Coll , C m , , Ill ed y E dwine ,

k 1 0- 1 4 a o 1 3 1 7 . m n , Y ar . . MS . H l . Roll , vi ar 5 102 MS . H l . , . ’ ’ St othar ds u ta ffi Mon men l E gies. Ca x v b . i . C. MS . C . C . , m ,

1 . ott . r . MS . C , Ne o , D r i v u of ra w tt . o . . . MS . Co , Ne , C F ll d ings R o 1 4 MS . y . , , C . vii . h a s o MS . r t . L n d wne , B i is Museum ’ ’ lin s o u a ras Mack M n ment l B ses . i i J ourn al of the Ar chaeolog ical Assoc a t on . R o 2 MS . y. , , B . vii . w R o . 1 0 . oo ar a ra s MS . y , , E . iv G d m gin l d ing . h L e ll a r a f r c a b o o t . T e outr Ps lte . Inv lu le s ume

l 2 1 - 4 f f Bod c . 4 38 1 4 V r o us f . 3 3 . . . 6 MS Mis , e y ull e ul a dr wings . ’ ’ D r urnivall s o of the s r ha c r F t . of . edi i n Elle me e MS C u e s ’ a t rb r a s C n e u y T le . ’ ’ el s o s Bout l M numenta l Brasse .

VOL I . . V 90 ENGLISH COSTUME

. ar . 1 31 9. tr ca h stor of the c os of MS H l , Me i l i y l e ’ har l s r oo ra for c s R c I . o t i d . eign G d d wings ume . 1 8 2 ar . 9 . MS . H l , 22 8 . ar . 7 . MS H l , ’ ’ s f of S Lydgate Li e t . Edmund .

5 a R o . 1 . t r s M S . y , , E . vi Fine mini u e . f s a 18 8 5 0 The or . . Bed d Mi s l , MS Add , . 2 8 2 ook of r . ar . 9 . o . a oo MS H l , A B H u s M ny g d

a dr wings .

r 4425 Th e R o a c f the a . . o os and MS . H l , m n e R e . Fine d useful rawings . b h 2 5 L a t . . 6 MS m e , R o 1 M S . . . 9 . y , , C viii

MS . 1 . . 6 . Roy , , F ii ’ ’ ’ T ur ber ville s o k of Falconrie and ook of t B o B Hun ing . ’ ’ s and ra Sha w s Dres es Deco tions . ’ ’ ’ se ands sh o and a far f V r J us r Engli N vel W y ing Li e . e y

xc t book fu of r ro ct o s fro at e ellen s , ll ep du i n m illumin ed k s and c r s boo r t t . s , p in , pi u e ’

The h h r s a ar 1 5 79 r t sh s . S ep e d C lend , , B i i Mu eum ’ ar s t or ca ortra s H ding His i l P it . ’ ’ i chols s r r s s of z ab th N , P og e se Queen Eli e . ’ ’ t ubbess ato of b s s 1 5 8 S 3. An mie A u e , ’ ’ ra s ta t s orb t errar um B un Civi e is . ’ s a u Ve tust M on menta . ’ ’ o ar s r a s r s A n li H ll O n tu Mulieb i g canus. ’ ’ a Holl r s Aula Vener is. ’ Pe ss ar py Di y . ’ s ar Evelyn Di y . ’ s r f o f a t s o o t t s. Tempe C ies L nd n . Fi y pl e ’ ’ tk so s o t s of r at r ta A in n C s ume G e B i in . GEORGE THE FOURTH 91

there a re o f In addition to these , , course , many

v of other books , prints , engra ings , sets pictures ,

of and heaps caricatures . The excellent labours o f the Society of Antiquaries and the Archaeological

Association have helped me enormously ; these , with wills , wardrobe accounts , Satires by Hall

’ of and others , Anatomies Abuses , broadsides , and other works on the same subject , French , German , and English , have made my task easier than it might have been . It was no use to spin out my list Of manuscripts — — with the numbers endless numbers of thosewhich

so l proved dry ground , I have given those on y which have yielded a rich harvest .

BEAU BRUMMELL AND CLOTHES

A erson m dear who will roba bl come and p , y , p y eak to us and he enter s i n to con versa ti on be p ; if ,

ca r ul to i ve him a a vour able i m r essi on o ou ef g f p f y , ’ or a nd she sun k her voice to a whis er he i s the f , p , ’ ’ f f a rum t r B rummell. o l br dM . ce e a e Li e Be u B mell ,

Capt ain J esse . Those who care to make the melancholy pilgrim

see a t C age may , in the Protest n emetery at Caen, 1 2— 2

E R IV A MAN OF T H E T IM E OF G O GE . — ( 1 8 20 1 8 30 )

ER E a we ar H you see the co t which now we , slightly a r our r a a lte ed , in evening d ess . It c me into f shion , r - 1 a nd was a with this fo m of top boots , in 799. c lled a a - - Br N J e n de y. otice the commencement of the r a whiske f shion .

GEORGE THE FOURTH 93

- —a second hand wardrobe that had been a man . He invented a shoe - buckle 1 inch long and 5 inches broad . He wore a pink silk coat with ff white cu s . He had steel beads on his hat .

- He was a coward , a good natured , contemptible

our for voluptuary . Beside him , in eyes , walks a l I time the elegant figure of Beau Brummel . have said that Brummell was the inventor of i modern dress ! it s true . He was the Beau who

of f raised the level dress rom the slovenly, dirty

- linen , the greasy hair, the filthy neck cloth , the

r l c umbled col ar, to a position, ever since held

of u by Englishmen , quiet, unobtr sive cleanliness ,

of f of decent linen , an abhorrence striking orms dress . He made clean linen and washing daily a part f o f English li e .

f - See him seated be ore his dressing glass , a mahogany - framed sliding cheval glass with brass arms on either sides for candles . By his side is

f of George IV . , recovering rom his drunken bout

’ Bean s - last night . The glass reflects his clean com

lexion ed f li n p ace , his grey eyes , his ght brow hair , and sandy whiskers . A servant produces a shirt

1 2- with a inch collar fixed to it , assists the Beau 94 ENGLISH COSTUME

into it , arranges it , and stands aside . The collar

’ D ean s f nearly hides the ace . Now, with his hand f protected with a discarded shirt , he olds his collar down to the required height . Now he takes his white stock and folds it carefully round the collar f the stock is a oot high and slightly starched .

A of supreme moment artistic decision , and the f stock and collar take their per ect creases . In an hour or so he will be ready to partake of a light meal with the royal gentleman . He will stand up f and survey himsel in his morning dress , his regular, quiet suit . A blue coat , light breeches fitting the

of leg well , a light waistcoat over a waistcoat some other colour, never a startling contrast , Hessian

- boots , or top boots and buckskins . There was i noth ng very peculiar about his clothes except , as

’ Lord Byron said , an exquisite propriety . His evening dress was a blue coat , white waistcoat , black trousers buttoned at the ankle— these were of sa his own invention, and one may y it was the wearing of them that made trousers more popular

- — i i than knee breeches striped S lk stock ngs , and a white stock . — He was a man of perfect taste of fastidious

b of in taste . On his ta les lay books all kinds fine GEORGE THE FOURTH 95

! covers. Who would suspect it but the Prince is

’ leaning an arm on a copy of Ellis s Early English

’ Metrical Romances . The Beau is a rhymer, an

- elegant verse maker . Here we see the paper — presser of Napoleon I am flitting for the moment

see over some years , and him in his room in Calais

for e here we notice his passion buhl , his S vres chin a painted with Court beauties . In his house in Chapel Street he saw daily por

of traits Nelson and Pitt and George I II . upon his l wal s . This is no Beau as we understand the term , for of n for we make it a word contempt , a nick ame f f a eeble ellow in magnificent garments . Rather this is the room of an educated gentleman of

’ exquisite propriety .

He played high , as did most gentlemen he was

of of . superstitious , as are many the best men That lucky Sixpence with the hole in it that you gave to a cabman , Beau Brummell, was that loss the commencement of your downward career There are hundreds of anecdotes of Brummell

’ of which , despite those the George , ring the bell character, and those told of his heavy gaming , are w more valuable as sho ing his wit , his cleanliness ,

GEOR GE THE FOURTH 97

of f style dress , many years behind the Fribbles , a ter

f of the Smarts , and must have seen the rise and all

n the ! ebras when he was thirteen . Duri g his life

saw - f f f - i he the old ashioned ull rock coat , bagw g,

f saw solitaire , and ru fles die away ; he the decline

f of - for and all knee breeches common wear, and n f the pantaloo s invented by himsel take their place . From these pantaloons reaching to the ankle came the f n trousers , as ashionable garments , ope over the instep at first, and joined by loops and buttons . then f strapped under the boot , and a ter that in every manner of cut to the present style . He saw the three - cornered hat vanish from the hat - boxes of the

fi n e - polite world , and he saw coloured clothes give way to blue coats with brass buttons or coats of solemn black . It may be said that England went into mourning over the French Revolution , and has not yet recovered . Beau Brummell , on his way to Eton . saw a gay- coloured crowd of powdered and patched

- people , saw claret coloured coats covered with

- - embroidery, gold laced hats , twinkling shoe buckles .

On his last walks in Caen , no doubt , he dreamed of London as a place of gay colours instead of the drab plac e it was beginning to be .

VOL . 1 V . 98 ENGLISH COSTUME

To - day there is no more monotonous sight than the pavements of Piccadilly crowded with people in dingy, sad clothes , with silk tubes on their heads , their black and gray suits being splashed by the

f o f mud rom black hansoms , or by the scatterings

- - motor cars driven by aristocratic looking mechanics ,

n - in which mecha ical looking aristocrats lounge ,

’ darkly clad . Here and there some woman s dress enlivens the monotony here a red pillar- box shines

sun - ffi in the ; there , again , we bless the Post O ce for - their red mail carts , and perhaps we are strengthened to bear the gloom by the sight of a blue or red bus . But our hearts are not in tune with the picture ;

f of of of we eel the lack colour, romance , everything but money, in the street . Suddenly a magnificent policeman stops the traffic ; there is a sound of

’

i Of f . jingl ng harness , horses hoo s beating in unison There flashes upon us an escort of Life Guards

sun of f sparkling in the , flashing specks light rom

f of swords , breastplates , helmets . The little orest w n of avi g plumes , the raising hats , the polite mur f of . muring cheers , warms us We eel young, our

f for hearts beat ; we eel more healthy, more alive ,

of this gleam colour . GEORGE THE FOURTH 99

Then an open carriage passes us swiftly as we stand with bared heads . There is a momentary sight of i f — a f f a man in un orm man with a wonder ul ace , A clever, dignified , kind . nd we say , with a catch in our voices !

— TH E K I N G G OD B LE SS H IM

T H E EN D

B I I NG AND ON LTD PR I N ER GU I FOR LL S S , . , T S , LD D