TARASCON CASTLE René d’Anjou Art Centre

Visit document A BIT OF HISTORY

A FORTRESS Master of Works, Jean Robert, was the architect. blending Gothic and René I ( 1434-1480), heir to the County of Renaissance Provence, took possession of the castle in Castle, built during the first the state it is still in to this day. He bore half of the 15th century, is one of the the prestigious titles of King of Naples, of most exquisite fortresses in . Sicily and of Jerusalem, Duke of Anjou, It is the perfect example of a building of Bar and of Lorraine, Count of Provence which blends Gothic and Renaissance and of Forcalquier. styles through its architecture and René I only made decorative and comfort- decor. The castle, built on a rather low enhancing changes to this dwelling. rock, at the intersection of overland During the countless times he stayed routes and waterways linking Provence there, he made the castle a venue for and Languedoc, takes on the role of a meeting, for celebrating and turned it into monumental-sized sentinel. Until 1481, a prestigious place. it controlled the political border of the Rhône which flows along its base. A link between the towns of Avignon and , USED FOR IMPRISONMENT throughout the Middle Ages Tarascon was the territorial base for the Counts for civilian and military of Barcelona’s expansion and conquest, prisoners then that of the Dukes of Anjou, who had As the seat of the Count’s sovereign power, become Counts of Provence. To reinforce the castle was used from the very beginning his power in the region, Louis II, Duke as a place of detention. In 1480, a Catalan of Anjou ( 1384-1417) and Yolande prisoner, supporter of the King of Aragon, of Aragon ( 1400-1417) launched the King René I’s enemy, was imprisoned there. construction of the building overlooking In two of the cells, he carved incredible the Rhône in the autumn of 1400, which graffiti illustrating warships, merchant would finally be completed in 1411. Their ships and religious and secular etchings. son Louis III ( 1417-1434) commissioned The castle’s role as a prison was intensified the building of the wing overlooking the between 1642 and 1926. town between 1429 and 1434. The King’s The site was used in turns as a prison, a short-stay jail and a correctional centre. of National Historical Monuments. The rooms were transformed into collective The castle which has been open to the public and individual cells. During the French since 1933 became the property of the Revolution, Robespierre’s supporters were Tarascon municipality in 2008. executed here in 1795. Hundreds of pieces of graffiti, related to this history, remain to this day, carved by Spanish soldiers, British and Dutch sailors and bear witness to the RENÉ D’ANJOU ART Euro-Mediterranean wars of the 17th and 18th centuries. CENTRE, Pursuing history… Tarascon Castle – René d’Anjou Art Centre today brings heritage and contemporary AN EXCEPTIONAL creation harmoniously together through MONUMENT the Gallery of Fabulous Animals. This at the heart of the Arles region cultural project focuses on the wealth of painted and sculpted decors which adorn Tarascon Castle, towering some 45 metres the monument’s ceilings and rooms. It high, dominated the landscape to the north echoes the legend of the Tarasque, whose of Arles for a very long time. Today, however, race through the streets of the town is now it has been ‘dethroned’ by the LUMA-Arles acknowledged by UNESCO as one of the Foundation tower, standing 56 metres tall, Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage the work of architect Frank Gehry. The of Humanity. The 2009-created Art Centre castle’s monumental size leaves its mark showcases works of art commissioned from on the scenescape of this area between the contemporary artists, such as Christian Alpilles and the Rhône. Its terrace offers a Lacroix, Françoise Pétrovitch, Christian breathtaking vista over the river, the plain, Gonzenbach, Dominique Angel, etc. The the Alpilles and the Montagnette. Princes of Anjou’s passion for the arts is The castle’s remarkable state of therefore pursued at the very heart of this preservation stems in particular from exceptional monument. restoration and maintenance work carried out by several architects of the Department VISIT ITINERARY

Ground floor 1st floor

28 32 31 29

30 10

12 11

2nd floor Town side Town Rhône side 33 27

9 26 25

24 8 14 22 7 23 6 13

3rd floor Terrace to 16 16 18 17 15

19

20 21 Old Testament, and vine leaves. During CASTLE the 19th century, inmates from the prison OUTER COURTYARD carved graffiti on the entrance door posts. SERVICE QUARTERS 1 The kitchens comprise five rooms equipped BANQUET HALL with hooded fireplaces. The doors open out 8 The hall is illuminated by large windows towards the outer courtyard (‘commons’ and decorated with a larch-wood ceiling. In side) and the garden. They are topped on the Middle Ages, it was where meals were the outside by badly-damaged sculpted taken: a sink and a hatch for food waste, reliefs, illustrating the various occupations: discharging out towards the Rhône, were a small barrel connotes the servant installed for this purpose. It was also the responsible for beverages, the cupbearer. great stateroom where the prince received his guests. In the 18th century, it was transformed into a collective cell as we can OUTER COURTYARD see from the graffiti carved by British Royal 2 The garden is protected by the towers and Navy officer-soldiers. the wall-walk along the curtain walls. On the north wall, bullet holes bear witness to the siege which took place in June 1652: PANTRY King Louis XIV’s soldiers fought the castle 9 A bread oven, the remains of the pantry, garrison who were rebelling against the is located on the ground floor of a tower King’s coming to power. which was partially destroyed, probably as a result of fire.

DUNGEON 3 The dungeon controls the access to the seigniorial dwelling. The old wooden CASTLE RHÔNE SIDE drawbridge was replaced by the stone 1st FLOOR bridge in the 17th century. GREAT HALL CEREMONIAL COURTYARD 10 This room was used as a dining room 4 It links the various parts of the seigniorial and stateroom by Louis II and Yolande of dwelling. The oratory of Isabella Duchess Aragon (1384-1442). Here, the ceiling has of Lorraine (1400-1453), René I’s first retained its small painted panels, known as wife, is located to the left of the stairway ‘closoirs’. They feature imaginary animals, turret. The busts of René I and his second characteristic of Medieval bestiaries. The wife, Jeanne de Laval (1433-1498), can be walls are studded with graffiti carved by found in a niche, highlighted with a Latin British prisoners during the 18th century. inscription: “These divine heroes, illustrated by the lily of France and by the Cross, LOUIS II’S CHAMBER move forward together, and prepare their 11 Louis II’s chamber is equipped with a departure to the heavens”. latrine, mullioned windows and a built-in fireplace. A graffito from the Revolutionary LARGE CELLAR era is carved on a wall and represents a 5 It comprises a large underground room Republican column adorned with the scales where oil and wine was conserved in jars of justice, a Phrygian cap and two tricolour back in the 15th century. From time to time, flags. the cellar was also used as a prison cell- dungeon. CHAPLAIN’S CHAMBER 12 The chaplain, master of religious services CANTORS’ CHAPEL stayed in this room. In the 1470s, René I 6 René I had this chapel designed in 1448- had a wooden gallery built which offers 1449 for young cantors who took part in a view over the chapel and leads to the religious services. Inside, an opening leads ceremonial staircase. to the high altar. The chapel floor is strewn with graffiti made by French and Belgian prisoners during the First World War.

CHAPEL OF THE VIRGIN 7 The keystone of the choir illustrates the Coronation of the Virgin. The corbels, on the downsides of the vaults, feature old men, elders, allegories of the prophets from the graffiti of British warships, equipped with CASTLE RHÔNE SIDE rows of cannons. 2nd FLOOR LARGE CHAMBER (RETREAT ROOM) CAPTAIN’S CHAMBER 13 The large cabinet or retreat room was 19 The captain had a private chamber with used as a chamber. Below its majestic a fireplace. The arch downsides are vaulted ceiling, the corbels are decorated decorated with corbels featuring bats, with vine leaves and coats of arms, which characters and an eagle. were originally painted, featuring lilies and Jerusalem crosses, emblems of the Dukes UPPER CHAPEL of Anjou. 20 During the Middle Ages, the upper chapel was reserved for the Prince. Although the LARGE DRESSING ROOM close entourage could attend the religious 14 The inventory of furniture drawn up in 1457 services, only the Prince and his wife had reveals that this large room, equipped with oratories, on either side of the nave. The two fireplaces, was used as a dining room, painted of Louis III, Duke of then a storeroom. British prisoners left Anjou, adorns the choir keystone. A large their mark here with numerous pieces of stained-glass window illuminates the graffiti on the south wall. chapel. The chapel drew its architectural inspiration from the Popes’ Palace in Avignon. The corbels are adorned with TERRACE vine leaves and clusters of grapes, evoking 15 The terrace offers a panoramic view over Christ and the Eucharist. the Rhône, the Church of Sainte Marthe, Tarascon’s historic centre and the plain, the Alpilles, the Montagnette, Mont Ventoux and STEAM CHAMBER Luberon. Crenellations and machicolation 21 The steam chamber was a bathroom surround the terrace, which towers 45 where the floor was heated in the same metres high. adorned with way as steam baths during Antiquity. It fantastic animal decors cling to its walls. was reserved for the Prince and shows the importance placed on bodily hygiene and cleanliness during the Middle Ages. To move on to the 2nd part of the visit, head for the north-east tower. CASTLE TOWN SIDE 2nd FLOOR CASTLE TOWN SIDE RENÉ I’S CHAMBER 3rd FLOOR 22 This chamber was occupied by René I when he stayed here from 1447-1449. The ceiling SMALL CHAMBER was totally restored in 2000. The window, 16 This small chamber hosts ogival vaults. overlooking the town, is equipped with One of the corbels features a character large stone seats, known as ‘coussièges’ crouching down, dressed in noble clothing, or window seats. During the 18th century, with his head covered with a ‘houppelande’, British Royal Navy officer-soldiers carved a hooded mantle characteristic of the 15th ships, texts, horses, cannons, etc. on the century. walls.

LARGE CHAMBER WRITING CABINET 17 The castle captain, in charge of the 23 The writing cabinet was used by René I garrison, was accommodated in these and by his favourite illuminator-artist, apartments. Unlike the Rhône-side wing, Barthélemy d’Eyck ( around 1472). The the fireplaces in the town-side wing are latter painted illuminated manuscripts sculpted instead of being built in. illustrating works written by the Prince. The corbels are decorated with animals and a grimacing character. MARGUERITE OF CHAMBLEY’S CHAMBER 24 The room was occupied between 1447- SMALL CHAMBER 1449 by the wife of the Seneschal Louis 18 In the Middle Ages, this room, reserved for of Beauvau (1409-1462), Marguerite of the captain’s use, was probably a bathroom. Chambley (around 1423-1456). It contained The terracotta floor tiles were laid during a private room like that of the Queen’s. the 18th century. The walls are covered with LARGE CHAMBER by a grid, leads to the latrines and to a 25 These apartments let us imagine the former oratory, whose vaulted ceiling is splendour of the Medieval décor in the decorated with painted clovers. Prince’s dwelling. The ceilings were restored in the 1960s. On the closoirs, we SMALL CHAMBER can make out a court lady accompanied by 31 During the Middle Ages, this room was her dog, musicians, companion and fantastic used as a chamber by the princes’ animals. The decor was probably created confidants. under Barthélémy d’Eyck’s supervision, around 1450. DUNGEON CHAMBERS 32 Three chambers were built on top of each WRITING CABINET other in this tower: we can see the trace 26 We are led to believe that the Seneschal’s of flooring in the walls. The upper floors wife had her own writing cabinet as the were only accessible by ladders. Part of 1457 inventory mentions the existence the arsenal for defending the castle was of a writing case-ink well. The Medieval housed here. ceiling was repaired in the 18th century to accommodate a collective prison cell.

HEXAGONAL CHAMBER CASTLE TOWN SIDE 27 This non-restored ceiling is one of the GROUND FLOOR few remaining examples of the interior structure, characteristic of ceilings made CATALAN PRISONER’S CELL before 1435. The large larch-wood beams 33 The walls of this chamber are covered were fashioned with wood from the Lower with graffiti dating back to the end of the Alps and transported by waterway to 15th century (around 1480). They were Tarascon. most likely etched by a master shipbuilder of Catalan origin, an opponent of King René I. We do not know precisely why he was imprisoned. The graffiti illustrates CASTLE TOWN SIDE warships (galleys, fustas (or foists) and 1st FLOOR merchant ships (carracks). On one of the walls a scene illustrates naval warfare SMALL CHAMBER where six Catalan and Anjou ships oppose 28 The ceiling of this chamber is partially each other. It depicts the battles for taking blackened from smoke from the fireplace. control of the Kingdom of Naples, of Sicily However, we are able to make out a and of Jerusalem, fought against the decorative wooden frieze, the only one Princes of Aragon. Around the entrance existing in this castle. The walls are etched door, we discover an altar dedicated to the with graffiti from civilian and military Virgin and table games - chess and trictrac, inmates imprisoned during the 18th century an ancestor of backgammon - which were before and during the French Revolution. highly fashionable during the Middle Ages.

LARGE CHAMBER 29 The fireplace is adorned with the Beauvau family’s lion coat of arms. Pierre (1380- Leave this chamber and exit 1435) and Louis were advisors and by the gallery and ceremonial confidants to the Dukes of Anjou and, in courtyard. turn, each bore the title of Seneschal. As representatives of the princes, they were Thank you for visiting. in particular in charge of the building work of the castle hand-in-hand with the King’s Master of Works, Jean Robert. During certain stays here, the chamber was also occupied by the princes’ wives.

SQUARE CHAMBER 30 The right-side window upon entering this chamber leads to a partially-destroyed private oratory, reserved for the queens. Only a platform remains visible from the ceremonial courtyard. The door, protected DISCOVER ADVENTURE THROUGH the Gallery relating the the Gallery of Fantastic castle’s history Animals Explore the history of the fortress’s Head off on a quest to discover the fantastic successive inhabitants, including the Counts painted and sculpted animals which decorate of Provence, the Counts of Barcelona, the the castle’s ceilings and walls. A visit Dukes of Anjou, the Kings of Naples, of Sicily enhanced by the work of art commissioned and of Jerusalem, the military and civilian from Christian Lacroix, focusing on the prisoners. A one-of-a-kind tour into the heart theme of the Tarasque, the of the of the history of France, of Europe and of the Rhône, Tarascon’s totemic animal. Mediterranean. INFORMATIONS PRATIQUES Imp. Les Presses de la Tarasque certifiées Imprim’vert - Ne pas jeter sur la voie publique - Ne pas jeter sur la Imprim’vert certifiées Tarasque de la Les Presses Imp.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Château de Tarascon - centre d’art René d’Anjou Boulevard du roi René 13150 Tarascon France Tel. 33 (0)4 90 91 01 93

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Editorial design: Tarascon Castle Management and Public Service Department Graphical design: Communication Department Photo credits: Ville de Tarascon, Hervé Hôte (Caméléon Agency - Arles)