To Our Readers & Valued Partners WWD Tops 50,000 Paid Digital Daily Subscribers

¬ In this digital era when so many media and news organizations are struggling and under extreme pressure, you — our valued WWD readers — are keeping us strong. ¶ In March of 2015, WWD and its new owner, Penske Media Corp., made a strategic reexamination of our future. Together, we decided it was critical that this venerable news organization embrace mobile and digital media first, and ended the 100 year-plus tradition of a printed daily newspaper. Throughout the newsroom, we all questioned how our readers would react — and whether we could keep them as engaged across our web site and our Digital Daily.

Day after day, over the last two years, we have seen the results and watched as the Digital Daily’s global audience con- tinues to grow. “Old habits die hard and after so many years as a printed daily, we believed our readers would always prefer WWD in that format. But once the new Digital Daily launched, with its immersive reading experience and instant distribu- tion, the industry never looked back,” said Ed Nardoza, editor in chief of WWD. This week, we are celebrating a meaningful milestone: WWD surpassed 50,000 paying Digital Daily subscribers. With the global availability and borderless access of the Dig- ital Daily, we now count (dedicated) subscribers in 84 coun- tries. In total, with our digital and combined multiplatform subscribers, we have more readers than at any time in our 106-year history. Paul Jowdy, senior vice president and group publisher of WWD, said, “With the continued growth of subscriptions to WWD.COM since our September relaunch, and the success of the Digital Daily, we have ambitious plans to reach 100,000 Digital Daily paid subscribers by the end of 2017.” fashion and retailing businesses, and is upending the publish- In addition, over the last two years, we’ve increased the ing industry as well. Numerous magazines have folded and size of our international and domestic operations — opening more have scaled back and reduced their core assets, the tal- bureaus in China and Silicon Valley — while increasing our ented journalists who are the lifeblood of their organizations. investment and furthering our commitment to covering the With your continued support, we at WWD see a future with beauty and retailing sectors. Most importantly, we have main- even greater certainty for this iconic brand. We will continue tained our long-standing commitment to delivering the highest to put more energy and resources into WWD’s online edition, quality news and information to the entire fashion industry. and our around-the-clock news coverage of one of the most We have you, our subscribers, to thank for this achieve- exciting industries in the world. ment. And we especially appreciate your confidence in our mission of providing independent, spirited journalism. — Jay Penske Finally, it’s no secret that the Internet has transformed the c h a i r m a n a n d c e o , p e n s k e m e d i a c o r p . Daily Edition december 13, 2016 1

Owens On Show United Men PVH’s Push Rick Owens discusses Alexander Wang has Emanuel Chirico talks his upcoming furniture combined his men’s T and about the group’s exhibit at MOCA in L.A. ready-to-wear collections. sustainability initiatives. Page 6 Page 3 Page 9 Fashion. Beauty. Business.

business Al Tayer To Debut Ounass ● A regional focus, designer exclusives and fast deliveries are seen as key differentiators in the new luxury web site.

By David Moin

Al Tayer Insignia is seeking to tap the Middle Eastern luxury consumer on a scale never before attempted. On Thursday, Al Tayer Insignia launches Ounass.com, a women’s-only web site targeting affluent consumers in Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates who seek luxury, exclusivity and a high level of service. “We understand this customer. We are curating the whole experience for them,” Khalid Al Tayer, chief executive officer of Al Tayer Insignia, the retail business of Al Tayer Group, said in an exclusive interview. “We have over 30 years’ experience with luxury retailing in the Middle East. Continued on page 7

fashion Minkoff Joins The Designers Showing in Los Angeles ● The designer plans to reveal her collection on A Bolder Saturday, Feb. 4 at The Grove. By Lisa Lockwood

Is Los Angeles becoming New York Fash- ion Week West come February? The latest designer to decamp to the warmer climes of the City of Angels is Rebecca Minkoff, who will present her see-now-buy-now runway show there. Shoulder She will join Tommy Hilfiger, Rachel Zoe The off-the-shoulder jumpsuit evokes just the right mood for and Tom Ford, who all plan to show their going out during the transition season. “I love the modern collections in Los Angeles in February —­ romanticism and ease of a one-shoulder jersey jumpsuit,” said lending credence to the growing impor- tance of the city as a fashion capital. Josie Natori, showing her pre-fall collection. Here, her version in Of the four designers, three of them — double jersey. For more pre-fall, see pages 4 and 5. Minkoff, Hilfiger and Ford — all showed see-now-buy-now collections last Septem- photograph By george chinsee ber during New York Fashion Week. The fourth major brand to do so at NYFW last season — Ralph Lauren — will continue to show in New York. Minkoff, who pioneered the concept, will hold her spring runway show at The Grove, Rick Caruso’s retail, dining and lifestyle Continued on page 8 ADVERTISEMENT

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business Top 5 China Files WTO Case Trending ● The country filed the “China has not made the reforms neces- on WWD.com complaint against the U.S. sary to operate on market principles. Chi- na’s WTO Protocol of Accession does not and EU over calculations in require that WTO members automatically antidumping measures. grant market economy status to China, or discontinue use of all alternative anti- By Kristi Ellis dumping calculation methodologies on, or after, Dec. 11, 2016,” the official added. WASHINGTON — Tensions between the A Chinese newspaper “Consistent with its WTO obligations, U.S. and China ratcheted up a notch on announcing Donald Trump’s the United States will continue to apply Monday after China filed a complaint at presidential election win. alternative antidumping methodologies, the World Trade Organization, challeng- as appropriate, to ensure accurate calcula- ing the methods used in calculating anti- selling its goods below market value and tions in proceedings involving China.” dumping measures against its exports. subsequently assess punitive dumping The official said the U.S. will defend China filed the case against the U.S. duties accordingly. its right at the WTO to protect American and European Union, asking for dispute But the 15-year clause expired on workers and firms from the “damaging consultations. Sunday and China is now seeking to be effects of persistent distortions in the The case comes as friction between the treated as a market economy and chal- Chinese economy.” U.S. and China intensifies in the wake of lenging the U.S. and EU’s continued use “We will continue to press China to a series of comments and pledges made of “surrogate pricing.” address distortions in its economy and to by President-elect Donald Trump that has “According to Article 15 of the Protocol implement its international commitments, antagonized China. on China’s accession to the WTO, it obli- including at the WTO,” the official added. In the latest controversy, Trump was gates WTO members to stop using the sur- David Spooner, a partner at Barnes & the target of a scathing editorial in China’s rogate country approach against China’s Thornburg LLP and a former chief textile state-run Global Times newspaper on exports as scheduled,” said Shen Danyang and apparel negotiator at the U.S. Trade Dolce & Gabbana Monday, after he made comments on with the Chinese Ministry of Commerce, Representative’s Office, previously said if “Fox News Sunday” suggesting that the according to translation from his appear- China is designated a market economy, it Accuses Philipp U.S. might not be bound to a “one-China ance on CCTV. “This is clear and out of will essentially lower the punitive dump- policy” that considers Taiwan as part of the question and it has nothing to do with ing duties that countries can impose on Plein of Stealing China and proclaiming: “I don’t want China’s so-called market economy status.” Chinese imports in anti-dumping cases. China dictating to me.” The U.S., responding to the WTO case, “Legally, what it means is the Com- Employees Trump has also vowed to label China a said China has not made the necessary merce Department would have to use ● The German designer currency manipulator in his first 100 days reforms to operate on market principles, a China’s prices and values to calculate in office and impose 45 percent tariffs on key factor behind antidumping remedies. the tariffs,” Spooner said. “Right now, posted the fashion brand’s Chinese imports. A U.S. trade official, speaking on the Commerce declares China a non-market lawyer’s letter on his When China joined the WTO in 2001, condition of anonymity, said: “The economy because it [believes] it cannot Instagram account. it agreed to allow other WTO member United States remains concerned about trust Chinese prices, so it uses substitute countries to use “surrogate” prices in serious imbalances in China’s State-di- prices instead to calculate the tariff.” antidumping cases for 15 years, as part of rected economy, such as widespread China values the market economy ● ICSC Sees Change its accession protocol agreement. In anti- production overcapacity, including in designation for “non-economic reasons” On the Horizon dumping cases, that meant that member the steel and aluminum industries, and as well, he noted. countries could use prices from a third significant state ownership in many “It’s like a Good Housekeeping seal of ● Emma Stone, country to determine whether China was industries and sectors.” approval,” Spooner added. Nicole Kidman Among Best Dressed at Critics’ Choice Awards fashion 2016 Red Carpet and factories,” Wang said. “We can focus on expanding product offerings, quality ● L’Occitane Ups Technology Alexander Wang Shifts and technical experimentation.” With Smart Beauty Wang declined to give total sales Fitting Room volume for his men’s business but said Men’s Strategy for Growth men’s rtw and accessories account for ● Hong Kong Loses 15 percent of his total revenues. Men’s Ralph Lauren Flagship, ● The designer is the men’s rtw line. Under the new posi- is sold in 195 wholesale doors globally. Braces for More Closures combining his rtw and tioning, the collection will range in price His strongest men’s wear markets are from $90 for a solid cut-and-sew T-shirt the U.S., Japan, China and the U.K. “with T by Alexander Wang under up to $2,500 for a shearling coat. massive growth potential in each of these one comprehensive label. T by Alexander Wang actually preceded markets,” he said, noting that he’s happy the men’s rtw collection, launching in with his current retail network; the focus By Jessica Iredale 2010, with the main men’s line follow- now is to encourage his current retailers NEWSMAKERS ing the next year. Wang said customers to buy more deeply into the collection This Week’s Most It’s understandable that on a personal weren’t confused by the two different and with greater breadth. The collection level, men’s wear is one of the categories labels, “it was more that he didn’t pay will be shown to buyers from Jan. 20 to 28 Talked About Names Alexander Wang finds most interesting. attention, nor care.” at the Alexander Wang Paris showroom, In Our Industry Designers need clothes, too. As the chief He described his men’s customer as which falls during Paris Men’s Fashion executive officer and creative director “super loyal,” wide-ranging in age but Week. of his own brand, men’s is becoming with common ground in terms of their To put an increased focus on the men’s increasingly appealing as a business urban lifestyle and casual attitude yet lineup, Wang started showing it during driver, and Wang is taking steps to accel- desire for craftsmanship and luxurious his women’s runway show at New York erate growth in the category, specifically materials. “Our men’s wear customer is Fashion Week with his 10th anniversary, by combining his ready-to-wear and T by driven to purchase by item rather than by spring 2016 collection, which has paid off Alexander Wang collections under one look as our women’s wear customers do,” in terms of communication and sales. He label as of fall 2017. Wang said. “Say, for example, he falls in plans to continue to show both collec- Jeff Bezos Mickey Drexler “My goal with men’s is really to align love with one of our sweatshirts, he will tions on the same runway. Still, the men’s the offering with what our customer buy multiple units. We hear of this hap- and women’s businesses operate differ- already recognizes,” Wang said. “We’ve pening all of the time in our stores and at ently. Wang still believes in the distinction found that men do not perceive a distinc- the wholesale level.” between T and the main collection for the tion between rtw and T by. They see the Designwise, the collection will continue women’s market. brand as one, so for us it makes sense to to be street style-focused with an empha- “Our women’s offering is more diverse streamline the brand in order to grow it sis on graphic elements. There will be a so it makes sense to maintain two sepa- further and to respond to how our cus- core collection, as well as the seasonal rate lines,” he said. “I’ve always said from tomer shops.” offerings. “From a business perspective, Day One that T is not a diffusion line; it is Alexander Wang Rebecca Minkoff Going forward, the breadth of the combining men’s under one label stream- complementary to the main line and we men’s collection will be branded with the lines several parts of the business to cus- work very diligently to make sure there is

inkoff by H agop Kalaidjian by C lint Spaulding; M inkoff by Wang Jones; G areth by D rexler RE X/Shutterstock; B uchan/Variety/ by B ezos Scott; Joshua P lein by AP / RE X/Shutterstock; A ndy Wong/ by C hina photograph black in-garment label currently used for tomers, as well as internally to suppliers never crossover nor dilution.” december 13, 2016 4

Pre-Fall 2017

Josie Natori Temperley London Marchesa

femininity, tough yet always flattering. For Somerset countryside, Temperley looked Gucci example, a skirt and a dress with a high slit to nature’s decorative elements: flowers, Flying carpets, fire-breathing dragons, were cut under the knee and punctuated foxes, birds and snails, as embellishments enigmatic panthers, as well as UFOs and by drawstring-like embellishments. The for eveningwear and day ranges. the planet Saturn with rainbow rings. traditional camouflage was combined with Flowers and leaf crystal adornments These were only some of the elements Versace’s signature on a silk parka and on were hand-sewn or delicately affixed onto Alessandro Michele employed for pre-fall a range of knitted and jacquard separates, gowns, as in one black tulle dress in silk to narrate another fairy-tale. To this end, while lace was rendered in a graphic organza. The shimmery display also came his very personal language wove charming quality echoing sporty atmospheres. on wide-leg, sequined jumpsuits. Gucci plots across different worlds, ages and These also influenced the evening offering, Digitized floral prints and patterns were cultures. It was a fragmented composi- where a see-through embroidered skirt seen on floor-grazing dresses in soft silk tion, totally emotional and asynchronous. was combined with a coordinated sweat- satin or on corded lace ones, with embroi- And, as it often happens with the weirdest shirt. With this collection, Versace demon- dery. Meanwhile crystal snails inched suggestions, totally engaging. strated she is solidly paving the way to across the bodices of evening gowns, A rule-breaker, Michele stole opulent build a fresh, modern image for the brand, while bird patterns — subtle and ornate — evening dresses, including a stunning one celebrating the beauty of women, who appeared on day dresses and eveningwear. taffeta style with flocked ribbons, from the are empowered through clothes reflecting Although all of her signature midi wardrobe of an imaginative Marie Antoi- their brainy sensuality. — A.T. dresses were there, Temperley expanded nette and juxtaposed it in the lineup with on her day offer, adding separates such a range of tracksuit-inspired leggings and as wide culottes in black and blue, or sweatshirts infused with a vintage feel. Josie Natori khaki trousers with suspenders, pairing Sophisticated shirtdresses in a patchwork “It all started from a vintage kimono I the latter with a ruffled white shirt. She of Sixties-style patterns found a place have,” said Josie Natori of pre-fall, display- introduced a new overcoat style made of a next to a knitted cape with embroidered ing a chic kimono she made for her lineup. Lurex jacquard in an ornate floral pattern bunnies, which echoed more surreal, The tight collection incorporated graphic with bell-shaped sleeves. — Lorelei Marfil psychedelic atmospheres than reassuring and floral elements found in the original children’s books’ illustrations. He matched piece, from the floral jacquard fabrics she the American preppy look with Bohemian rendered in flirtatious fit-and-flare dresses Marchesa references: college blazers, sometimes to bomber jackets. More figuratively, she Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig cinched at the waist with fanny packs embroidered floral patterns in denim. “We chose an appropriate starting point embellished with a metallic Gucci logo, had a huge debate about doing denim,” she for their lush, opulent eveningwear at were layered over ruffled maxidresses. A related. “Everyone convinced me, so I said Marchesa: the Fabergé egg. Drawing “do-it-yourself” attitude was encouraged if we were going to make it, it had to be from the splendor of imperial Russia’s by the detachable embroidered ribbons, glamorous.” A tailored suit version stood most treasured and bejeweled heirloom, as well as the array of collars enriched out, but the real winner was a belted black the duo incorporated metallic baroque by precious details. Nothing was con- one-shoulder jumpsuit with ruffled neck- embroidery, floral-printed brocade and ventional and ordinary in the collection; line and sleeve — probably because Natori intricate beading into their lineup of everything was peppered by a surprising herself is all about effortless poise and gowns and cocktail numbers. “We tried detail, a magic touch. Michele’s magic elegance, not necessarily experimentation. to be quite commercially minded, and touch. — Alessandra Turra — Mayte Allende we’ve gone more heavily into separates,” noted Chapman during a walk-through, motioning to a pair of lace peplum Versace Temperley London blouses in black and fuchsia, the latter For her latest spring show, Donatella Alice Temperley looked to woodland with a plunging V-neck and pencil skirt Versace took a trip to Planet Sportswear. creatures as well as the flora and fauna of to match. A transparent nude column With her pre-fall collection, she contin- a picturesque English shire for her latest gown decorated with gold beading and ued her exploration, but brought it to an collection. layers of tiered fringe further invoked the urban level. She used innovative fabrics “She’s the hunter and gatherer and lavish theme. for a high-tech approach. A coated tweed she’s collecting her charms and things — Most notable was Chapman and Craig’s resembling glossy leather was crafted from she’s from the forest,” said Temperley of use of printed lace layered visibly beneath a biker jacket matched with an updated, her pre-fall inspiration. “It’s an English sheer tulle, which created dimension on a geometric version of a kilt. Quilting and countryside fairy-tale.” romantic blush gown with shirred ruffles patching, along with intarsia decorations, The result was a charming lineup of and quarter-length blouson sleeves. enhanced the graphic attitude of modern playful — and functional — pieces in earth Another highlight for cocktail hour: a stables, such as a zippered coat with a tones balanced with red, pink and blue white crepe mermaid dress with a gold military feel, as well as an elegant peacoat. hues. Taking a cue from her upcoming beaded bustier top and a flirty, flared Versace eorge C hinsee G eorge by N atori R idgers; D erek by G ucci photograph New silhouettes defined a more discreet book, as well as from her visits to the hemline. — Kristi Garced december 13, 2016 5

J.Mendel M Missoni Pre-Fall Karen Walker M. Martin 2017 J.Mendel Victoria Gilles Mendel drew on his own summer experiences for pre-fall, channeling his Victoria Beckham annual trips to Spain and a vacation to Victoria Beckham created the collection Morocco into the collection, kicking up the around separates as a response to her cus- hedonistic spirit by adding a Rolling Stones tomer: “It’s what she wants — to buy into in Tangier moment to the Moroccan vibe. looks, pants, shirting and outerwear, and “That’s my rock 'n' roll fantasy,” said put her own twist on it,” she said. “She Mendel of a dusty rose fur chubby and a wants to have fun, but still feel sophisti- ruffled dress with caped shoulders in faded cated and cool.” leopard print. Texture was major, as was pattern, as He assembled all his references — Span- in a black flower print on a velvet suit, ish ruffles, mosaic guipure, Seventies glam slouchy striped silk pajama pants and rock and a mélange of rich colors against swans printed onto shirts, done in spongy soft, faded tones — into a lovely collection lace for tops, or gliding over tapestry that satisfied the J.Mendel customer’s bombers. Texture came in the form of appetite for round-the-clock glamour with- coats made from 3-D-patterned velvet that out overindulging. That’s saying something resembled astrakhan, and dark corduroy — it’s not easy to make a broadtail shirt patches on coats. look practical. When it came to furs, Men- Volume was a prominent theme — and del made them as light and transitional as one that Beckham, in her floor-grazing possible. While a short ruffled dress with a flared trousers and chunky sweater — cutout back would qualify for cocktail for embodied. She’s put a new spin on VVB most women, it’s the J.Mendel client’s idea tailored denim trousers, and is doing a of “high day” dressing. — Jessica Iredale slimmer take on her best-selling flared ones. Volume also came in the form of patchwork cotton shirtdresses, as well as M Missoni airy blouses with knot details. There was Missoni’s signature zigzag and Lurex even an oversized sweater inspired by a knits were worked into what could be Mondrian painting. “VVB is a lot about described as contemporary bourgeois color,” she said. — Samantha Conti sport for pre-fall. Elements of the classic — plaid blazers, modestly cut feminine dresses — were styled with sporty hoodies Marchesa Notte and stirrup pants. Geode motifs gave an Victoria Beckham Marchesa Notte Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig let earthy, psychedelic spirit, while patent the opulent Fabergé egg be their guide for pants and feminist photo prints offered a a gingham button-down with an off-the- Martin: to offer women the classics they pre-fall at Notte, weaving a common thread rebellious rock attitude. There was a little shoulder ruffled blouse sewn on top. need in their wardrobes and keep updating between their younger label and its sister, something for everyone, all of it rendered Tempering the collection's girlish frills these every season. So pre-fall and resort Marchesa. In a rainbow of vibrant jewel in understandable silhouettes. was a more tomboyish Western vibe, seen — Noyes explained — is the perfect time to tones, Chapman and Craig paid hom- — J.I. in cowgirl shirting with embroidered yokes launch these new classics and core pieces age to imperial grandeur with decadent and trousers in brushed cotton drill. In her since "it stays on the floor the longest." textures, as in metallic brocades, ornate press notes, Walker noted that her imagined This specific season brings about the guipure lace, 3-D floral appliqués, feathers Karen Walker prairie girls weren't roaming Midwestern sensibility of Wes Anderson's "Hotel and sequins. The duo gave their lineup a Karen Walker channeled a prairie grasslands on horses but rather atop uni- Chevalier" — specifically a marigold hue whiff of whimsy with bird, butterfly and vibe for pre-fall, decking out her lineup corns. The mythical creature was printed on they used in a cotton sateen pajama and star motifs, as a flirty attitude prevailed with ruffles, gingham and baroque a cotton muslin jacket and embroidered on a great midi fit and flare. Elsewhere, chic — ruffled one-shoulder cocktail dresses prints and prim Victorian silhouettes. A a dark denim rodeo shirt. — Kristi Garced crepe satin T-shirt "suits, tuxedo "wrap with peekaboo layers of polka-dotted bare-shouldered ruffled dress in micro shirts" — kind of a blazer and shirt hybrid; tulle, or sexy corseted gowns with cutaway floral-printed silk georgette felt effortlessly cigarette pants, cady dresses and the hemlines. A series of ethereal pleated looks sensual, thanks to a cutaway hemline that M. Martin perfect T-shirts and merino blend knits in sheer chiffon and lace rounded out the showed off the leg, and a few standout Jennifer Noyes and Alex Gilbert have completed the covetable collection. collection with a softer romance. tops featured elements of layering, as in a clear and consistent mission with M. — Mayte Allende — K.G. december 13, 2016 6

fashion Giorgio Armani to Close Milan’s MFW, Offers Theater to Three New Brands

● The brands showing on expressivity to the looks without any big Milan as they head to Paris. observed that companies that are more Jan. 17 are Moto Guo, set-up, and I hope that it will add momen- Consistence is a men’s wear brand wholesale-oriented are moving their shows tum to their career, as it did to mine.” founded in London in 2014 and designed together up to Men’s Fashion Week in Jan- from Malaysia; Consistence, Armani was referring to his own begin- by Fang Fang and Tien Lu. Yoshio Kubo uary and June, while those that are more from China and Taiwan; and nings when he designed collections for graduated from the University of Philadel- retail-oriented move later to Women’s Yoshio Kubo, from Japan. women’s wear brands Montedoro, Sicons phia in 2000 and after gaining experience Fashion Week in February and September. and Tendresse in 1974 that showed at Pala- in haute couture in New York returned to As reported, Gucci and Bottega Veneta will By Luisa Zargani zzo Pitti’s Sala Bianca. Japan, where he founded the namesake show both divisions together in February. The designers showing on Jan. 17 are brand, unveiling it in Tokyo for spring/ “The Camera is creating a container MILAN – Giorgio Armani is once again Moto Guo, from Malaysia; Consistence, summer 2009. Moto Guo was founded where every brand is free to express their closing Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week in from China and Taiwan; and Yoshio Kubo, in 2015 by the eponymous designer, who creativity. There is no one single rule for January but for the first time he will offer from Japan. showed the collection in Milan in June. everyone, so we offer a frame, flexibility his theater to three international young The event is being held in collaboration Capasa said the calendar was “more and our services,” said Capasa. As reported, brands, which will present their collections with Italy’s Camera Nazionale della Moda innovative and international” this season. Alberta Ferretti will also show her pre-fall consecutively and ahead of his own show, and the association’s president, Carlo He ticked off new entries Billionaire, Cédric and demi-couture lines on Jan. 13. scheduled at noon. Capasa, defined it as a “happening,” which Charlier, Federico Curradi, Malibu 1992, Asked about whether he believed newly “Milan is going through a moment is meant “to highlight the generational Palm Angels, Plein Sport and Wood Wood, appointed Prime Minister Paolo Gentiloni of huge aesthetic, cultural and creative change taking place and to contribute to selected from the White trade show. Returns could be opening Milan Fashion Week in ferment, of which fashion is an active the internationalization of Milan’s sched- to Milan include Ermenegildo Zegna, February as his predecessor Matteo Renzi part. That is why I decided to expand ule, proposing talents from different parts kicking off the week on Jan. 13 at 8 p.m. and did, Capasa said it was too early to say, and structure my initiative in support of of the world.” marking Alessandro Sartori’s debut collec- but remarked on the comments the latter the most talented designers to establish a Capasa remarked on the “strong signal” tion for the brand; Antonio Marras; Frankie made in September. “Renzi believed in the unique and exciting day in Milan’s sched- Armani is giving with this project and by Morello; Moschino; and N.21. importance of the fashion industry in Italy ule,” said Armani, who has for some years moving his show later in the day to the Some of the brands, he said, will and said he hoped that whoever would allowed a designer each season to show at noon slot. He expressed his confidence in show men’s and women’s together such succeed him would also do so, continuing his Teatro. “I like the idea of giving more “the curiosity” the event will draw, which as Moschino, presenting its women’s in his path, and put fashion at the center of than one brand the chance to present their is expected to contribute to press and pre-fall lineup; Marcelo Burlon; Damir his economic program,” said Capasa, who work during this event, leaving all the retailers delaying their departure from Doma; Dsquared2; and Charlier. Capasa has never met Gentiloni.

eye Rick Owens on Furniture, Fashion and the ‘Fairy Witch’ ● The designer discusses his “Artisans in Paris finishing Rick Owens’ “6 Prong Totem, Rick Owens’ “Prong Concrete, 2016.” The sculpture upcoming exhibit at MOCA Alabaster 2016” piece.” is a totem in raw cast aluminum. and working with his wife, Michèle Lamy.

By Marcy Medina

While there never seems to be enough hours in a day, Rick Owens has figured out a way to make more time. “I have two morn- ings,” he said. “I get up early and have my meetings, and then I’m sort of emptied out, so I go take a nap. Then I wake up and start my work day again at 6 p.m.” The prolific designer and artist is speaking from the rural town outside of Bologna, Italy, where his clothes are pro- duced. “I’m working on men’s runway and starting women’s spring,” he said. Many designers gripe about the increasing num- ber of shows and collections, but Owens said, “I love the stimulation. It keeps you on your toes, like boxing. You have to keep your eyes open all around you.” “It was never a commercial idea. We just spend ones’ leisure time, it’s because more better than experiencing it myself.” Indeed, he also has a show opening at did it because we could. It’s the way we pedestrian acts of goofing around don’t Instead, he’ll get to work on his next Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary play.” Owens said he comes up with draw- come naturally to Owens. “I take life a little museum exhibit: a show at the 2018 Milan Art, or MOCA, on Dec. 17 titled “Rick ings, then passes the ball to Lamy, who has too seriously, perhaps. I’m good at dedi- Triennale that will be a comprehensive Owens: Furniture,” which will be on view models made, which they both then carve cation and discipline, but I feel we have a look at his fashion oeuvre and his furni- through April 2 at MOCA’s Pacific Design and re-proportion before Lamy enlists arti- moral responsibility to take the time we’ve ture. According to him, “It’s one of those Center space in West Hollywood, Calif. sans to create the mostly large-scale pieces got and play. This is what works for me.” clothes-on-a-mannequin, world-of-the-de- But, he explained, the real creative force from marble, alabaster, bronze, leather and Owens said he’ll leave it to Lamy to install signer shows.” Given that Owens is prone behind the show is his wife Michèle Lamy, plywood. This show marks their first foray the show and glory in its opening. His to complex analyses of his own work, who is currently here installing it. (A Twit- into materials such as foam, rock crystal pieces will be shown alongside a selection of count on it to be interesting. ter post by Italian artist Giovanni Leonardo and concrete. “One day for Christmas I am works by the late artist and musician Steven “It’s a big, beautiful space. I’m going Bassan on Thursday showed Kanye West going to get Michèle her own crane. She Parrino, whose canvases contain themes of there next week to look at it,” he said. “I sitting on a still-crated, carved ox bone loves heavy machinery,” he noted. detaching, twisting and distorting the mate- love being able to manipulate space and Owens chair at the museum.) It’s Lamy’s execution, he said, that rial similar to those in Owens’ clothes. create a utopian vision. I’m completely “It’s an intimate exercise, a conversation makes the pieces special. “I don’t over- “I want her to enjoy all of this on her aware of the poignancy of reaching for between me and Michèle,” Owens said of estimate my creativity at all. Ninety-five terms,” he said. “I’ve got a s--tload of things something that is unattainable. That is the their design process. They began making percent is the execution. In this case it is to do over here, and socializing would be beauty of utopias. It’s only a matter of time furniture in 2007 and the exhibit contains very much about her energy. She’s a mag- this distraction. I have to be forced to come before they’re corrupted.” He paused, about 20 percent classic pieces and 80 ical fairy witch who needs to go out there to New York and L.A. because there is a before adding, “I’m fully aware it’s based percent new works, many of which they and connect with people, fight with them, social kind of hysteria there that is not my on ego and vanity, but while you are on conceived for his newest store in New throw her jewelry at them,” he said. comfort zone. But I’m not shy.” earth, it’s something good do with your York’s SoHo. If it seems like a monumental way to Plus, he said, “I like her summaries time. Busy hands are happy hands.” december 13, 2016 7

Al Tayer To Debut Ounass continued from page 1

We have the largest luxury platform in the Middle East. We are not appealing to a global-wide audience,” he said. “We are looking at changing the con- sumer behavior in this region,” added Mohamed Fayed, senior vice president of omnichannel, retail, of Al Tayer Insignia. The new web site debuts with 230 brands in ready-to-wear, footwear, fine jewelry, handbags, cosmetics and home, and will include luxury designers, big brands, contemporary labels and emerging designers and companies. Ounass, which translates to “a select group of people,” will be in Arabic and English. Ounass is launching at a time when e-commerce accounts for only a tiny fraction of shopping in the Middle East, although activity in the sector is heating up. It will strive to alter shopping habits Looks from the Gucci exclusive capsule in the Middle East where only about two collection on the Ounass.com homepage. percent of retail sales are conducted online in the region, and where visiting a of the assortment is the exclusive capsule Alabbar’s Symphony Investments for a Al Tayer said. By tapping the talents of the shaded, air-conditioned, enclosed mall is collections we have created with key distribution center in Dubai that will offer company’s existing merchant teams and considered a popular recreational family partners and key brands. Our design team same-day delivery. The agreement covers marketing talent, “What we only needed to outing and escape from the sun and heat. has been working very hard on this,” in all YNAP banners — Yoox, Net-a-porter, Mr complement them with is an e-com team The perception is different from the U.S., some cases, requiring months to convince Porter and the Outnet — and the center involving technical aspects and some edi- where many malls are losing traffic. designers to participate. will distribute to the UAE, Saudi Arabia, torial and a lot of digital marketing. Ounass Establishing the Ounass luxury website “We know that our local customers Kuwait, Qatar, Bahrain and Oman. YNAP is really not a start-up. It’s an extension of is a natural extension of Al Tayer Insignia’s shop all over the world and have access ceo Federico Marchetti said, “The region is our organization.” retail business. The Dubai-based company to any number of retailers in the fashion one of our brightest prospects” and is the According to Fayed, “We had to aug- operates 200 stores in the Middle East, capitals of London, New York, Paris and fifth most important region for high-end ment the team with about 150 people including licensed Bloomingdale’s and Milan. Therefore, we have ensured that luxury. Middle East customers spend 2.5 including stylists, translators, photogra- Harvey Nichols in Dubai, and will open there will always be exclusive capsules times more per year on luxury on YNAP phers and retouchers.” Ounass does all its the second Bloomingdale’s in the Middle and items not found anywhere else but on than average customers.” own photography in its own studio. East on Feb. 1 at the 360 Mall in Kuwait Ounass.com,” she said. Earlier this year Alabbar, who is also Asked how big of a business Ounass could City, Kuwait. The assortment is also geared to the chairman of Emaar Properties and Emaar be, Al Tayer responded, “We don’t know, Al Tayer Insignia will also open Macy’s travel lifestyle. “Our customers are very Malls, unveiled another e-commerce but I think it’s going to be a very big propo- first international store and a third international. They are always traveling,” venture with Noon.com, which will be sition. We are really excited that Ounass is Bloomingdale’s in the Middle East, both Kuloglu said. “The assortment is not just a general e-commerce platform for the going to be the first regional player with a inside the Al Maryah Central development for hot weather or Dubai. Our client will region, going live in January. very dominant offer. We have a first-mover in Abu Dhabi in March 2018. find what they need to travel to Europe According to a Deloitte’s report on luxury advantage. There have been other proposi- Recently, Al Tayer signed an agreement and the U.S. We will have a more interna- goods in 2016, the sector’s growth rate is tions but on a much smaller scale.” to open stores in the Middle East for Whis- tional selection, and it will be very focused slowing in important markets such as China As to whether Ounass could cannibalize tles, a British contemporary brand. The on their very favorite styles and prints.” and Russia, although some markets con- some business from his company’s brick- company has other agreements with brands She said many styles will be on the modest tinue to perform well and there are pockets and-mortar operations, Al Tayer replied, such as Crate & Barrel, Banana Republic, side, to cover up more of the body, and of opportunity. India and Mexico are “I don’t think so. We reflected on that a Gap, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron, will be very colorful. growing quickly, and the Middle East offers lot. We believe there is an e-com pure-play Coach, Dolce & Gabbana, Emilio Pucci, Al Tayer Insignia buyers shop London, further growth potential, the report stated. customer and a brick-and-mortar omni- Giorgio Armani and Jimmy Choo. Paris, New York, Copenhagen, South Korea, According to YNAP, the Middle East is channel customer.” The parent Al Tayer Group is a conglom- Japan and other markets around the world. one of the markets showing the biggest Asked if the site would one day go erate operating in the automotive, con- Ounass has its own buyers and utilizes growth in luxury, up 10 percent compared global, Al Tayer said, “If we are comfort- tracting, distribution and service sectors, those from Al Tayer’s department stores. with 2 or 3 percent in the rest of the world, able moving forward and see demands as well as in retail. Kuloglo portrayed the Middle Eastern with a young population of Millennials from the rest of the world, it would be “Ounass will be globally relevant but customer as similar to designer shoppers who are inclined to shop online. something to consider, but our focus is locally led,” said Al Tayer, noting the web around the world. “They follow social “We are at an inflexion point in the absolutely fanatically focused on the Mid- site will have an in-house team of editorial media. They follow what’s going in fashion. market,” Al Tayer said. “We are starting dle East customer.” content creators and will further differen- They don’t miss anything. They are very to see dot-coms become meaningful sized Among the other designers selling tiate itself from competitors by showcasing quick. They want what’s different, new and businesses” in the Middle East. “This was Ounass are Valentino, Stella McCartney, exclusive capsule collections from many edgy,” she said. not the case three years ago.” Alexander McQueen, Moncler, Erdem, designers, among them Gucci, Roland Editorial content will be updated on He believes Ounass will gain market Emilio Pucci, Bottega Veneta, plus emerg- Mouret, Peter Pilotto, Eugenia Kim, Rami Mondays, and will include interviews with share by providing a more curated, region- ing brands such as Ellery, Sacai, Monse, Al Ali and Ayesha Depala. designers, travel features, influencers and al-specific assortment and greater personal Johanna Ortiz and Vilshenko. “At the beginning, 20 percent of the fashion trends, including locally created service than competitors. “They really look Contemporary labels include Self-Por- offering will be exclusive. We have plans editorial content featuring some of the at a global audience. We are really focused trait, Alexis, Theory, Vince, Helmut Lang, to increase that,” said Eda Kuloglu, senior region’s most influential women. While on providing a great experience for the Joseph, Acne Studios, Stella Jean, Marques’ vice president of merchandising for packing in a lot, “This will be a very easy, Mideast customer.” Almeida and MM6. Footwear and handbag Ounass and Al Tayer Insignia’s depart- friendly, uncomplicated site,” Kuloglu There have been some smaller local web brands include Dolce & Gabbana, Gianvito ment stores. “The most important part said. “The product is hero, and the web sites, but Ounass is the first on a major Rossi, Jimmy Choo, Nancy Gonzalez, Stella site is clean, not cluttered.” scale with editorial content. McCartney, Aquazzura, Stuart Weitzman, Khalid Al Tayer Among the services on Ounass cited by “First and foremost, over the last couple Sophia Webster, Nicholas Kirkwood, Sergio the Al Tayer team: of years we have been really listening to Rossi and Alexandre Birman. • Personal stylists that will be dispatched our customers and hearing requests for an Eveningwear includes Monique Lhuillier, to customers’ homes, by appointment. online experience,” Al Tayer said. Elie Saab, Theia, Zuhair Murad, Elizabeth • Two-hour deliveries in Dubai. He cited three “pillars” that create a Kennedy, Notte by Marchesa, Rubin Singer, • Free delivery of a purchase of at least distinctive shopping proposition. First, hav- Hervé Leger and Safiyaa. $300, or about 1,100 dirham. ing merchants who for two decades have Resortwear will include Lila.Eugénie, • Same-day delivery within the UAE, bought for the Middle Eastern customer Yosuzi, Figue, Lisa Marie Fernandez and and GCC, or Gulf Cooperation Council, and who are now getting designers to create Caroline Constas. residents outside the UAE will receive exclusives. Second, having a “high-touch” Beauty will include Acqua di Parma, purchases within 48 hours. service experience including a network of Armani Beauty, Sisley, YSL, Diptyque, The primary competition will be from personal stylists making home visits, and Memo Perfumes, Rodial, Lancôme, Net-a-porter and Mytheresa. Yet in an indi- speedy deliveries. And third, leveraging his Bulgari, Laura Mercier and By Kilian. And cation of the growing competition in the company’s logistics capabilities. fine jewelry will include Boucheron, David region’s e-tailing, Yoox Net-a-porter Group “We have a lot of know-how. We are just Yurman, Pomellato, Delfina Delettrez and ayer portrait by Sofia D adourian Sofia by portrait ayer

A l T has set a joint venture with Mohamed enhancing it for the Ounass experience,” Bee Goddess. december 13, 2016 8

Rebecca and designer’s freestanding stores do a healthy uncomplicated,” said Zoe, whose design Minkoff Joins the Uri Minkoff ready-to-wear business, said Minkoff. offices and sales showroom are in New Designers Showing The designer has freestanding stores on York, but whose company headquarters Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, Chicago, in are in West Hollywood. In Los Angeles addition to locations in San Francisco and Ford plans an L.A. event as well, but continued from page 1 New York. details couldn’t be learned at press time. The Grove, developed by Caruso In February 2015, he held a fashion show Affiliated in 2002, has tenants including in Los Angeles on the eve of the Oscars, Elizabeth and James, Barneys New York, and attracted such celebrities as Gwyneth destination. She will partner with The Diane von Furstenberg, J. Crew, Apple, Paltrow, Julianne Moore, Miley Cyrus, Jen- Grove on several consumer experiences Vince, Nike, Nordstrom, Shinola, Tesla and nifer Lopez and Scarlett Johansson to Milk integrating retailers at the lifestyle center Topshop Topman. Studios. This past September, Ford held a with her brand, providing a runway-to-re- As reported, Hilfiger also decided to see-now-buy-now show in New York at the tail experience. The plan has been in the have his see-now-buy-now show in Venice Four Seasons. The entire fall collection was works for several months. Beach in Los Angeles, where he will show shopable mere minutes after the models The show will take place on Saturday, different brands outside the fashion space his women’s sportswear collection, as stepped off the stage. Feb. 4, five days before New York Fashion that have stores or are retail participants at well as his Tommy x Gigi capsule collec- On the city’s appeal to designers, Just Week begins. The Grove. He’s still working out details as tion. The show will be designed to reflect One Eye founder Paola Russo said, “Los “Last season, when we took our [Sep- to which brands will participate. Minkoff the California beach lifestyle that inspires Angeles is becoming a bigger city with huge tember] show to the streets of SoHo, we plans to open a pop-up shop at The Grove the collection. The company will fly in potential. New York real estate developers saw just how eager our consumer was to be during the month of February. most of the models, as well as hair and are coming to Los Angeles, and so is fash- part of the brand experience. There was a Minkoff said he chose The Grove because makeup for the show. ion. It’s just the beginning of it. I have been three-hour line around the block just to get there’s been so much discussion about the More than 3,000 press, buyers, industry in the fashion business for almost thirty into the store to shop,” said Uri Minkoff, troubles with retail, the slowdown in traffic influencers and consumers are expected to years and it’s exciting to see designers and chief executive officer of Rebecca Minkoff. to the mall and the growth of online. The attend Hilfiger’s oceanside runway show on brands embrace the West Coast lifestyle.” “This season we wanted to take the expe- company felt that if it could introduce a Feb. 8, the night before NYFW, which is Feb. Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the rience to one of our biggest markets: Los new type of experiential model, it could 9 through Feb. 16 in Manhattan, kicks off. Council of Fashion Designers of America, Angeles. Besides allowing her to see the have participating partners invite their own “TommyNow is about inclusivity, fusing supports the movement West, saying, “I runway show and see the collection, we consumers, and each of the companies fashion and entertainment, celebrating pop think it’s an opportunity to explore the [see- will give her one of the biggest luxuries that could show off their new products. culture, and connecting our global consum- now-buy-now] idea in another market with a we see our Millennial consumer craving — “You can actually create a localized retail ers to inspiring, unexpected fashion expe- lot of consumers.” He also said it’s a chance the luxury of experience.” rebirth. You have fashion, you have beauty, riences,” Hilfiger said. “The casual, cool, to further the idea and generate business. Minkoff plans to partner with health you have wellness, you have restaurants, chic look that is leading the fashion world “This is an idea that some designers like and wellness, beauty and technology you have electronics, you have auto pos- this season was born and bred in L.A., and and are embracing and think has value. partners to bring their customer a full-day sibly. You have all these different partners I knew this show would feel at home on Clearly L.A. is a big market with a lot of experience. “We see this as a spark in that are releasing new products or provid- Venice Beach.” consumers. It’s a great opportunity to retail, not only for us, but for everyone ing different experiences for their custom- As for Zoe, she plans a dinner event and take that concept there and speak to those involved,” he said. ers, and the fashion show becomes the halo presentation in Los Angeles, either Feb. 1 consumers directly and I think it’s a great The reasons the brand decided to go to and the big finale moment,” said Minkoff. or Feb. 2. Company officials were unavail- thing,” said Kolb. Los Angeles were threefold: The com- The show is planned for sometime able on Monday to provide more details In terms of scheduling, Kolb said Hil- pany really enjoyed last season showing around sundown. It will take place outside, about the show. figer’s show is the Wednesday night before outside, the theme of the spring show and models will walk along the center’s “I’m still a small designer; I can’t take NYFW starts, and he assumes Ford will has to do with California and a female trolley tracks. He said he expects between over the Griffith Observatory, but I felt it align with the Oscars again, but he doesn’t discovering different parts of the state and 5,000 and 10,000 people to be there. was time to own being an L.A. designer,” know for sure. And Minkoff is Feb. 4, the the brand does a significant amount of Minkoff plans to use a mix of models from said Zoe earlier this month. The designer Saturday before NYFW. e-commerce in California. New York and L.A. took her apparel business in-house this “From logistical purposes, it doesn’t Minkoff partnered with Maybelline last The Los Angeles show will be the third year. Zoe said she decided after her last impact what’s happening in New York season, which launched a product at the see-now-buy-now one for the designer, who New York show that it was time to switch during NYFW, which will again will have a same time of the show. “It got us thinking launched the idea at her spring 2016 show. coasts “for a minute.” mixture of shows from see-now-buy-now that, ‘What if fashion week was beyond a The model has proven to be successful “It was our biggest and best-reviewed to preview and hybrids, and also given the fashion brand? What if we could take sev- for the brand, with sales at its SoHo store show yet, but I felt it was getting too big, strong number of talented designers, we eral different brands and partner together increasing 128 percent since implementing and I’ve always been about a more intimate won’t be short on any talent that week. I where the fashion event was a crescendo the new concept. Minkoff’s brand spans vibe, not a massive event,” she said. “I think it’s a good thing. The whole idea is to experience, but several partners could align ready-to-wear, bags, footwear, jewelry, eye- leave that to Tom, Tommy, Ralph and Marc, explore different approaches to a fashion together to do something?’” the ceo said. wear and tech accessories. Accessories rep- who have earned it.” show, and falling outside of a defined week The company plans to tie in with resent 85 percent of the business, but the “No matter what, it will be glam and in a different city, it’s a great exploration.”

business within the respective markets they operate in with The Grove, for example, having attracted brands such as Elizabeth and James, Shinola and more recently fashion Rick Caruso Re-brands to blogger Chiara Ferragni’s first U.S. pop-up. “We’re in the hospitality business. That’s how it’s evolved, but it’s very clear that we’re in the business we’re in [with the Emphasize Hospitality Focus new branding],” Caruso said. “What is our core business? I wouldn’t tell you it’s the ● The new brand reflects more accurately reflect how the business Caruso’s The Grove retail business or it’s the apartment busi- the firm’s evolution as has evolved since its founding, first taking in Los Angeles. ness. We’re in the hospitality business.... and redeveloping a former Loehmann’s site [The rebrand] needed to reflect this very a real estate company on La Cienega into the retail project 333 S. prominent priority. I’m building places focused on placemaking. La Cienega and eventually evolving its port- that I’m willing to sign my name to.” folio to now include residential, office and The company tapped design firm Penta- By Kari Hamanaka the incoming Rosewood Miramar Beach gram to advise on the refresh. Montecito hotel project. At the end of the day, it’s not about Developer Rick Caruso has taken per- “It was important to me as a company tacking the Caruso name to each of the sonal touch to real estate one step further that we do that because our company is properties to create a uniformity, the with a new brand. really about doing things that have a very developer pointed out, pressing upon the His Los Angeles company revealed its first personal touch,” Caruso said. “[It’s] not fact that each project will continue to have major rebrand since the firm’s founding in only a personal touch by the people who its own identity. Thus, the under-construc- 1987 that’s aimed at mirroring the business’ create the properties that we develop tion Palisades Village project — to include

RE X/Shutterstock .com/ focus on hospitality and placemaking across and that we operate, whether the hotel a Vintage Grocers with a theater and other A its diverse property portfolio. that’s under construction or the retail like to who we are today.” tenants set to be announced next year — The company revealed a new logo — a Palisades Village or the residential, but it’s The development firm is well-known for and the Rosewood Miramar resort project stylized version of Caruso’s signature also a personal touch to our guests. I look the places it creates — some might say small will each reflect the communities they’ll be — along with a re-skinned web site and at our team as being really great artists for cities unto themselves right down to the developed in. dropped the word Affiliated from the name. what they produce.... As a company we’ve electric-powered trolleys that take guests “I’m not looking to brand the properties The name change is largely what most refer had unprecedented growth in the last 20 around its Grove and Americana at Brand with the name,” Caruso said. “I don’t think to the business as anyway, Caruso pointed years and it was just time to go through a retail centers. There’s also the merchandis- anybody cares about that; I do think they

B F Farrell/ by photograph M inkoff out. However, it’s the other updates that brand refresh and to make it more relevant ing mix that has made the centers unique care about experiences.” december 13, 2016 9

business PVH Signs Two UN Environmental Accords

● Earlier this year, the matter most to our business, our industry are concerned about President-elect with 10 commitments across three key corporation signed the and the world more broadly.” Donald Trump’s choice of Scott Pruitt, the focus areas: empowering people, preserv- Chirico said by being involved and attorney general of Oklahoma, to head ing the environment and supporting com- Women’s Empowerment committing to initiatives such as these, the Environmental Protection Agency, munities. The strategies support 14 of the Principles to reinforce its “it shows internally to our own people Trump’s apparent commitment to encour- U.N.’s 17 Sustainable Development Goals, commitment to gender and externally to our partners and to our age more coal mining and his uncertain covering issues such as building safety, shareholders around the world our com- commitment to the Paris Climate Accord. chemical management, greenhouse gases, equality in the workplace. mitment to corporate responsibility.” Chirico, who is on the Presidential inclusion and diversity and supporting the By Arthur Friedman He said such agreements and policies Advisory Committee for Trade Policy and needs of women and children. are “catalysts for change as we move Negotiations, said he’s not as concerned With the apparel and textile industry a forward for the industry at large,” and about the U.S. cutting back its environ- major contributor to water usage, notably PVH Corp. is taking its commitment that the consumer has shown PVH and its mental commitments as much as what will in cotton cultivation, PVH said water is to the environment and sustainability to brands that it’s important to them because happen on trade. an area of increasing importance for the higher levels. “it tells them the story of what we are and “There’s enough going forward in initia- apparel sector and, following Tommy Hil- On Monday, the company said it has what we stand for.” tives that are built into business strategies figer’s pioneering work on water through expanded its engagement with the United Chirico said committing to such initiatives that I don’t see a rollback,” he said. “My its multiyear partnership with WWF Inter- Nations by signing onto the U.N. Global is cultural and strategic within the company. concerns center more around some of the national, the group will work in alignment Compact, joining more than 9,000 cor- “It means time and people,” he said. trade issues. President-elect Trump has with the CEO Water Mandate to drive prog- porate members in recognizing business’ “We’re committing our resources to align some important points to make concern- ress on its goal to safeguard and preserve ability to lead change on the global sustain- with these initiatives, 90 percent of which ing a level playing field. Is there a level water resources. Tommy Hilfiger has also able development agenda, with a focus on we were doing. In those few areas that we playing field when you’re talking about signed the CEO Water Mandate to reaffirm the apparel industry. weren’t it was mostly a matter of disclosure. China? No, there’s not. So we should see its commitment to responsible water usage PVH and its Tommy Hilfiger business These agreements are a roadmap of where what we can do to address those issues, and stewardship, which are key compo- have also signed the CEO Water Mandate, we should be headed as a company.” but we can’t take them to the nth degree nents of its Sustainable Evolution strategy. an initiative to mobilize business leaders The UN Global Compact is a call to and have a trade war because that would As for the overall industry, Chirico said to advance water stewardship and to companies around the world to align be non-productive.” it has evolved from public relations to true improve access to clean water and san- their operations and strategies with 10 PVH has long been in the forefront in commitment to transparency over the last itation. Earlier this year PVH signed the universally accepted principles in the the area of Corporate Responsibility issues. 15 years or so. U.N. Women’s Empowerment Principles areas of human rights, labor, environ- This year, the company celebrated the 25th “This is an industry that has its chal- to reinforce its commitment to gender ment and anticorruption, and to take anniversary of “A Shared Commitment,” lenges when it comes to factory com- equality in the workplace. action in support of UN goals and issues its code of conduct for business partners pliance and human rights, and its been “The world is changing rapidly,” said embodied in the Sustainable Development that helped usher in a new era of social important to build that into our business Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief exec- Goals. Launched in 2000, it is the largest compliance in the apparel industry when strategy,” he said. “Once you do that… utive officer of PVH. “We recognize both corporate sustainability initiative in the it was published in 1991. PVH has also and commit to transparency, it gives you a the opportunity and the responsibility for world, with more than 9,000 companies been an affiliate of the Fair Labor Associa- catalyst to make changes.” business to take a lead role in addressing and 3,000 non-business signatories based tion, a multistakeholder initiative uniting He said much of that is driven by people pressing global issues. We believe that in over 160 countries, and more than 80 companies, universities and civil society inside the company and it does become by partnering with the United Nations Local Networks. organizations to protect workers’ rights part of the corporate culture, of the core through our commitment to the U.N. PVH’s actions come at what could be a and find solutions to industrywide labor values of the company. Global Compact, CEO Water Mandate and critical juncture for environmental issues issues, since its inception. “Once you do that, then it becomes a Women’s Empowerment Principles, we and the commitment by apparel and Earlier this year, PVH launched an matter of actions have to speak louder can better drive progress in the areas that textile companies to sustainability. Experts enhanced global CR strategy structured than just words,” he added.

fashion the Indian market is often understood. Now people are mixing moods, mixing expressions. There is a certain noncha- Diesel Launches Cricket-Inspired lance now to make it all look effortless and thoughtless.” As for the collection, Andrea Rosso, Diesel’s creative director for licenses, Ath-leisure Collection in Mumbai said, “We took inspiration from the classic ● aesthetics of cricket which is clean, mas- The line is a collaboration A look from the are doing something very brave. We are culine, preppy, formal, made of sophisti- between the brand and Diesel capsule changing the formal look of the soccer cated and very recognizable details. The collection. the Mumbai Indians team. players in a very brave way into an infor- ‘V’ shapes that are inherent to the cricket mal look. This will be presented on Dec. uniform highlights the athlete’s silhouette By Mayu Saini 23 in Doha in Qatar, where there is a big and celebrates the elegance of this sport. match,” he said. “The ‘V’ shape is present throughout MUMBAI, India — Diesel, best known for Both collections are for before and after the whole collection and is one of Diesel’s denim, will make its first foray into a global the game, not for the sports field. DNA staple. We played with this distinctive ath-leisure collection on Wednesday with The sportier look is also spilling over element, applying it to different shapes, an unusual focus: cricket. into design elements for the core Diesel washes and treatments and using the The 26-stockkeeping unit special brand. “We are talking about trends such Mumbai Indians team colors with hints of collection, which already went on sale as oversize — two or three sizes bigger — white, gold, ochre, orange and blue that last week in the 11 Diesel stores in India, and another trend is for more sports-ori- are well-connected to the world of denim.” is a collaboration between the brand and ented fashion. It’s how to be cool today. So Speaking about 2016 for the Diesel the Indian Premier League cricket team it is a good influence — sports influencing brand, Rosso said that the results for this Mumbai Indians. the fashion system,” Rosso commented. year were expected to be lower than last The team is owned by the Reliance A momentary trend, or also a part of year. “The company is moving from 1.1 Group. Diesel retails in India in partner- Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, a lot growing business? billion euros [in revenues] to less than ship with Reliance Brands, which is part of of countries,” he said. “I think it is both, a trend and a part of 1 billion euros [$1.06 billion at current the Reliance Group. “Diesel and Mumbai Indians are two business growing because it is also very exchange]. We have cut the size of the col- “The collaboration is just starting iconic brands, similar in spirit, with global comfortable,” he said. lection and focused on more quality, more because we discovered that these iconic resonance, and we are teaming up around The cricket collection is a limited edition beautiful products and increased the status people who play cricket, they are super- a shared dream of pride, passion and for two seasons. of Diesel in general. Diesel is becoming stars,” Renzo Rosso, founder of Diesel, bravery. We want to make this collabora- Nita Ambani, owner of the Mumbai really an alternative to luxury,” he said. told WWD at the Indian launch of the tion unique, fueled with innovation and Indians and chairperson of the Reliance Rosso added that the trend in 2017 collection in Mumbai. modernity,” Rosso added. foundation, described the new launch as would be towards more consolidation of enske M edia/ RE X/Shutterstock enske “So Diesel buyers who love cricket The next big sports launch for Diesel “a momentous step for Mumbai Indians.” retail outlets for the brand — to reduce the and the superstars and cricket fans all will also be later this month, with a proj- Talking about the increasing trend present 400 stores worldwide by more over the world will connect with it. You ect Renzo described as “very close to the towards sportier clothing in India, Dar- than two dozen stores. However, he said have to consider that India has so many heart.” shan Mehta, president and chief executive that the store count would continue to inhabitants, more than a billion people. “We are the styling partner for AC Milan officer of Reliance Brands Ltd., explained, increase in some countries like China and

hirico photograph by P by C hirico photograph Also cricket is very well-known in the U.K., [Italian football club] and with them we “There is an oversimplification of how India, while consolidating elsewhere. december 13, 2016 10

business men’s Fitch Ratings Sees Digital Rag & Bone Cofounder Driving Half Starts Double Eleven Line Of Retail Sales ● Sustainability is at Nathan Bogle but has this back story,” said Bogle, who the forefront of the relays the brand’s sustainability message ● The ratings agency projects on a hang tag. “I think bite-sized pieces of sales growth of 3 to 4 percent men’s basics collection. information is the stronger way to com- next year. By Aria Hughes municate this to the consumer. The name for the collection came from By Evan Clark Civilian Clothing 41 or CC41, a rationing Since leaving Rag & Bone in 2006, program in England that was put into Fitch Ratings said the battle for customers Nathan Bogle’s journey has taken him to place in 1941 and required manufacturers will rage on next year as retailers push their many different places. to place limits on how they used materials business models to meet the new desires of After a short hiatus, he dabbled in culi- and produced clothes. Double Eleven was shoppers and the digital channel wins most nary school, film school and consulting the name of the program that came after of the growth. before finding his way back to the apparel CC41 that produced better quality items The debt watchdog said 2017 U.S. retail business in 2012 with his line Jardine, that were still placed under manufactur- sales, excluding automobiles and gasoline, a contemporary men’s wear collection ing restrictions. would grow 3 to 4 percent, carrying on named after his great-grandfather that “I just thought it was a really interesting the trend seen this year, when sales are shuttered in 2014. This collection, which parallel and certainly fit into this idea projected to end up 3.8 percent. was nothing like Rag & Bone, consisted of of working within our means but not But the growth is not all equal. suit separates, dress shirts and polo shirts compromising on quality and style,” said “More than half of retail sales growth will made of synthetic fabrics. Bogle. occur online, while in-store sales growth is Now he’s taking another stab at fashion The collection is currently being sold limited to around 1 percent,” Fitch said. with Double Eleven, a sustainable men’s on the Double Eleven e-commerce site, The report noted that overall square brand that embodies the Americana ethos but Bogle is hoping to sell it in specialty footage growth is minimal and that many he embraced at Rag & Bone. retailers around the U.S. and department categories have seen an increase in “I was sitting on a factory floor on stores. He also wants to expand the line to competition. 38th Street where we made our leathers include outerwear, more denim options David Silverman, senior director of U.S. for Jardine and I was watching the guy and women’s. For international produc- Corporates at Fitch, said: “Spending focus cut the hide and basically utilize only 70 tion, is goal is to source the materials on services and experiences appears here percent of it,” said Bogle. “And I just went for the clothes and produce them in the to stay, so the dividing line between best- through the calculation of the cow, feed- region they are distributed. In the mean- in-class retailers and market share donors ing it and the food and water and it hit me paper, items are wrapped in a single piece time he’s providing uniforms for coffee is increasingly going to be determined by like a ton of bricks and I thought, I’ve got of paper that features a calendar and the shops and restaurants including the New which retailers can cater to the evolving to solve this.” brand’s tenets. In addition to that, all of York-based Jack’s Wife Freda. landscape. Those that find success have Bogle’s solution is layered. He’s pro- the pieces in the line are cut, sewn and “You have farm to table, and clothing invested in the omnichannel model and ducing Made in Los Angeles men’s wear packed within a 15-mile radius. Denim has been a bit slow to catch up, but I have differentiated their products and cus- basics — denim, T-shirts, sweaters and retails at $125, knits and T-shirts range think the apparel industry is next in line,” tomer service to draw customers in.” jackets — that are constructed with dead- from $25 to $45, shirting is priced at said Bogle. “It’s just a matter of finding This echoes the sentiment of Howard stock fabrics. Knits are made with organic $110, chinos retail for $124 and outerwear that balance between style, fit, price and Schultz, chairman and outgoing chief stock yarn and dyes are plant- and ranges from $160 to $200. quality where you don’t feel like you are executive officer of Starbucks, who pointed vegetable-based. Garments only consist of “I was really trying to give people cool, being crunchy. But I think that idea is to sweeping changes in retail, even as the one label and are packaged in cardboard everyday, conscientious product that dying away because there are brands out coffee chain moves ahead with plans to tubes, which Bogle is hoping shoppers still has all of those elements that we are there like Stella McCartney, Maiyet and open 12,000 new doors. will reuse. Instead using mounds of tissue familiar with in contemporary clothing Reformation that are doing cool stuff.” “We’re going to see a very major down- turn in the fact that the country is over-re- tailed in lots of categories,” Schultz told investors this month. “We are going to see significant, major brands as we’ve seen business already, not open as many stores as they have in the past. And you’re beginning to see the beginning of lots of companies Mall of America, Fashion Island announce store closures because they’re fixed assets in terms of their infrastruc- ture and their investment just can’t justify the return.” Launch IBM Concierge Pilots He said retailers would have to embrace technology and become true destinations ● The high-tech services ELF would complement existing inter- paired At Your Service with its new O.C. shoppers. follow the summer testing action with guests between Mall of Amer- Delivery Express, which offers same-day Fitch in its analysis noted: “Customers of Macy’s On Call app. ica’s digital team and customers on its delivery within Orange County starting are shifting discretionary spending away Twitter, Facebook and Instagram pages. at $12. from physical products and toward services By Kari Hamanaka “This pilot with Satisfi and IBM Watson Both Mall of America and Fashion and experiences such as media, travel, is the first foray into the world of chatbots Island’s concierge services are enabled by dining out and fitness. This evolution is gen- and AI for Mall of America, so we wanted IBM Watson and Satisfi. erally negative across the brick-and-mortar Retailers continue to explore the pos- to create an interactive experience that IBM Watson became well-known to the retail sector.” sibilities of artificial intelligence at stores provided guests with a unique service broader public after the computer system Additionally, the rating agency noted, and shopping centers with IBM Watson while creating new learning opportunities competed and won on “Jeopardy” in 2011 “Customers are dividing spending within now pushing into the Mall of America and for our digital team,” said Mall of America and can be used across industries, includ- categories to the low- and high-end of the Fashion Island. digital director Emily Shannon. ing financial services and health care. The spectrum. This is due to quality improve- Both shopping centers on Monday Fashion Island’s program, called At technology, which “learns” and becomes ments at the lower end and reduction in launched AI-powered concierge pilots Your Service, is similar in capability. The smarter over time as it is exposed to the stigma of shopping cheap, coupled with focused on providing high-tech help to Newport Beach, Calif., center’s mobile more experiences and information, is the aspirational importance of high-end shoppers whenever and wherever they concierge lets shoppers text questions, paired with a company called Satisfi’s brands.” need it. ranging from brand-based inquiries to location-based platform in the case of the Dollar Tree Inc., Burlington Stores Inc., Mall of America, the largest mall in less specific questions about a particular Fashion Island, Mall of America and the Levi Strauss & Co., Coach Inc. and J.C. Pen- North America, unveiled its service called category they may be looking to shop. Macy’s On Call programs. ney Co. Inc. are among the company’s that ELF, which stands for Experiential List “We’re always looking for ways to The two shopping center’s concierges Fitch sees as “on a positive trajectory.” Formulator. It helps guests map out their elevate the customer experience,” said follow the testing of the Macy’s On Call On the flip side, those companies that stay at the Minnesota shopping center, Easther Liu, chief marketing officer of app at 10 of the department store retailer’s “will be challenged to maintain share, which counts more than 500 stores, Irvine Company Retail Properties, which stores, beginning in July. The On Call liquidity and positive comps” included Sears based on personal preferences and can be owns Fashion Island. service lets customers ask questions about Holdings Corp., Claire’s Stores Inc., Gymbo- accessed via mobile, desktop or Face- Liu added: “Think of it as an enhanced the stores they’re shopping in with topics ree Corp., Abercrombie & Fitch Co., Vince book. The service is available through directory right at your fingertips.” that can range from merchandise inquiries Holding Corp. and Bon-Ton Stores Inc. New Year’s Day. The upscale shopping center has also to locating a specific department. december 13, 2016 11

Jay Z’s Signee Young Paris on Working With Gypsy Sport The Roc Nation musician is blending Afrobeats with Drake-inspired rap and earn- ing Anna Wintour’s approval in the process.

When Jay Z’s latest addition to Young Paris’ album, the Roc Nation label Young Paris “African Vogue.” arrived with Gypsy Sport’s Rio Uribe on the red carpet at the November CFDA awards ceremo- ny, he was promptly introduced to Anna Wintour — and earned a nod of approval. “We met at the red carpet. She doesn’t know who the hell I am, but she was like ‘wow,’” Paris recalls. In addition to his Gypsy Sport outfit, Paris was wearing his signature white face paint, a family marking traditional in his Congolese culture. The immedi- ate acceptance from the fashion community struck him. “It was my first fashion awards show to attend, and to get that response from a warming place, instead of ‘what is this?’ was beautiful,” he says. Paris’ mix of American Young Paris chart-topping rap with Congolese drumming is charming the music Miss Lily’s in Manhattan's SoHo he recalls. “All the kids around will accelerate in the coming year, “My thing is, I’m a risk-taker,” respects Prince, no matter how industry as well; after releasing on a recent afternoon. “My father me were rapping and I always citing everyone from Rihanna to Paris says. “What I would like to feminine his words. And I would his mixtape “African Vogue,” cofounded the first national wanted to put a swing on my Drake as recent examples of the be known for with style, and for say my words are very feminine, back in June, he was signed to ballet in Congo, and my mother music, so I added some addi- combination's growing popular- my career as well, is being able but I’ve also opened my mind Roc Nation as online excitement was a dancer in New York, and tional background of Congolese ity. “Even Justin Bieber is doing to take an interesting balance to the shape of my body, and generated. The album was re-re- she was invited to dance for a drum into the background of my some Afrobeats stuff lately,” he of masculinity and femininity — different pieces I can wear and leased Dec. 9, and if Paris has his company in Paris — I was born sound. A lot of the music has says. “You’ll hear it a lot more next essentially, I’m an African man feel comfortable in.” way, this is only the beginning. in Paris.” traditional African dialects but year and into the spring. I've been wearing paint on my face. And He’s hoping his acceptance “Long story short, I grew up His interest in music grew it’s very contemporary — so it’s low-key, some serious songs are the thought of wearing makeup into large-scale American culture with a very strong performance out of a desire to combine the kind of a mélange. It’s reiterating coming up.” is obviously a very feminine thing. will follow in the steps of Wintour and theatrical family — with 10 sounds he heard as a kid in New my background and trying to His sense of confidence But the way that things are dis- on that first red carpet. “For me, siblings, raised in my early years York with those of his family in translate that into a contempo- caught the attention of Uribe, who played and how they're done kind America is the most open-minded in Paris and then New York, Congo. “I grew up being a young rary sound.” brought Paris to the CFDAs and of reshapes the norm of what and the most close-minded coun- and we’d go to Congo a lot,” he kid wearing my hat backwards The updated take on Afrobe- who he hopes to collaborate with people think of. Prince is a really try in the world at the same time,” explains, from a corner table at and wearing those large shirts,” ats music is a trend he predicts during NYFW in February. good model for that. Everyone he says. — Leigh Nordstrom Anne Hathaway Mulls Moving to N.Y. At Botanical Gardens Ball Over a plate of ravioli, the “Ocean’s Eight” actress discussed her new baby and working with Rihanna.

“Wintering in Florida just doesn’t feel like Christmas,” a young lad in a velvet suit jacket gushed to his date, feasting his eyes upon the train display chugging through the New York Botanical Gardens. The Gardens were filled Friday night for the annual Winter Won- derland Ball, with A-lister Anne Hathaway, fashion folk Timo Wei- land and Dennis Basso and social swans Georgina Bloomberg, Ariana Rockefeller, Kick Kennedy and one Tinsley Mortimer, back on the scene after a five-year Palm Beach retreat. “I’m a chairman with my friend Georgina Bloomberg and my friend Natalie Bloomingdale, so we kind of took over this year,” Rockefeller said. For the holidays, she and her family are “going to Maine, which we always do. It’s so great. We drive, we have a little whole road trip. We always stop for a little lob- Georgina Bloomberg ster roll, and do some Christmas and Jean Shafiroff Tinsley Mortimer shopping, and go to L.L. Bean. The town where we go is really sea- Hathaway, or “Annie,” as she Rihanna and Cate Blanchett. “I‘m Earlier in the week, paparaz- squared-off acrylics?’ And I was sonal, so in the summer it’s like introduced herself, was at the here on a film, and I used to live zi shots surfaced of her and like, ‘They’re for my character!’ Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard, winter ball for the first time, here full-time, and my husband Rihanna filming the upcoming They’re very Jersey. I’m playing a very hopping, but winter is so accompanying her friend Justin and I are getting very thoroughly movie, showing Hathaway in movie star, she’s from Tampa. She lovely because it’s so quiet. There Conner, a publicist behind the seduced,” she said, between a “green snakeskin Burberry wears a lot of expensive things, are no other cars — it feels like a evening. “This whole thing is bites of the red meat-substitute, coat — it was fabulous,” she said. and has fake nails.” winter wonderland, it’s so cozy.” unicorn colored,” she said, looking ravioli. “This night is doing a “I was so happy when it showed She looked around her table, By New Years the family will around the wintery pastel tent. very good job. And we have a up. My character is ridiculous — which included celebrity stylist be in Palm Beach, along with the “I have to give mad props to the new baby, so we might be back these are her nails,” lifting up her Micaela Erlanger. “These girls all photographs by C lint Spaulding by B all photographs G ardens and B otanical aris portrait rest of New York society. “It’s like speakers, like, blending in.” full-time — we don’t know. Who hands to show off sets of long are all beautiful and wearing very tropical New York, in Palm Beach,” The Oscar winner is in town knows, but this is an absolutely French-manicured fake talons. expensive things — not a fake nail

oung P Anne Hathaway

Y Rockefeller said. “It’s a migration.” filming “Ocean’s Eight,” with lovely, lovely night.” “As Justin said, ‘What’s with the in sight.” — Leigh Nordstrom DIGITAL BEAUTY FORUM New York City

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Fashion Scoops

selection of home products and acces- Access Denied sories in our stores and online gives us President-elect Donald Trump and Kylie the opportunity to enhance the Vince Jenner share a similar communications narrative,” said Terence Bogan, senior strategy: rely on social media to drive vice president of retail at Vince. news. Jenner’s Kylie Cosmetics pop-up The product assortment ranges from store at Westfield Topanga in Canoga apothecary brands Grown Alchemist Park, Calif., made its debut to much and Binu Binu to candles by Lite + Cycle, fanfare Friday, but it certainly wasn’t due ceramics by Sarah Kersten, glass objects to traditional press. Prior to the opening, by Nate Cotterman, totes from Stanley & a spokesperson for Jenner said media Sons, and jewelry from Marmol Radziner appeals to photograph or visit the store and Sayaka Davis. wouldn’t be accommodated. After it, a The brand has also partnered with request for statistics on the success art firm and digital space Tappan to of Kylie Cosmetics’ retail premiere was present “Studio Series,” an original denied. The snubs didn’t stop some series of Vince-commissioned art from journalists from showing up, not that they Tappan talent that will be displayed at the had any luck getting inside. Fashionista brand’s flagships. The three emerging U.K. Prime Minister and Bustle were among the publications contemporary Los Angeles artists and Theresa May leaving 10 that sent reporters to check out the their works include blind-embossed, Downing Street, London. store, only to discover observing from hand-dyed paper prints by printmaker the sidelines was the best that could be Cheryl Humphreys; original recycled Hindmarch, and Russell & Bromley. mustered. “No press was invited to pre- skateboard sculptures by multimedia Wakeley’s team said the trouser view the shop, or even stand anywhere artist Luke Chiswell, and limited-edition model is Desert Khaki Leather Pant from near it,” wrote Bustle’s Sara Tan. black-and-white photographic art prints The exterior of Tod’s new the current fall 2016 season. They’re Although both Trump and Jenner have from Isaac Zoller. Miami Arts District store. sold out online, but still available at the occasionally entertained old-school The Vince Collective and the work of brand’s Albemarle Street and Draycott press outlets (Jenner was the subject commissioned Tappan artists launched Avenue stores. of a cover shoot and profile for Allure’s last week in stores and will go online today. tures of the design include gray marble The brand has been gravitating and mirrors along the main corridor with toward the art world of late, incorporating Morgan, who regularly sparred with August issue), their enormous social — LISA LOCKWOOD May when David Cameron was prime media audiences mean they don’t have dark wood shelving and steel accents on the work of artists such as Vanessa modern furniture. Beecroft, Jean Paul Goude and Dan- minister, has been widely quoted as to depend on them to generate buzz. saying: “I don’t have leather trousers. I Jenner boasts 80.9 million followers Retail as Art The store hopes to open its first exhib- te Ferretti into its creative direction. it in the Design District space in mid-Jan- Beecroft staged a special performance don’t think I’ve ever spent that much on on Instagram and has been a whiz at Tod’s has designs on Miami’s Design uary. To celebrate the new store, the at the spring 2017 women’s show in Milan anything apart from my wedding dress.” leveraging Snapchat to spur demand for District for its latest retail outpost. The brand is launching a Double T bag unique while Academy Award production design- Morgan is also leading a campaign to dis- her beauty brand’s products. Talking to New York design firm Bonetti & Kozer- to the Miami market. Fashioned from er Ferretti designed the current holiday mantle May’s Brexit negotiation plan.No WWD earlier this year about Jenner in ski created the brand’s second Miami Ayers water snake in a bright tropical windows. Last April, the brand sponsored one paid much attention to the trouser anticipation of WWD Beauty Inc honoring location as a contemporary space to orange and blue color, the bag will retail the “So Far So Goude” exhibit on the work comments until this past weekend, when Kylie Cosmetics as best indie beauty house not only fashion but art. The store for $2,425. The store will also carry the of Jean Paul Goude at Milan’s Padiglione a member of May’s team informed Mor- brand of the year, Laura Nelson, founder has polished concrete floors and walls style in pink, light blue and yellow leather d’Arte Contemporanea. gan’s people: “Don’t bring that woman to and president of Seed Beauty, parent that are movable, folding trunk doors that perfect for the balmy climate. Also exclu- — ROXANNE ROBINSON No. 10 again,” to which Morgan replied: company of Kylie Cosmetics, said, “I find transform the space easily from shop sive to the store will be limited editions “If you don’t like something I have said or it remarkable the power that her direct to art gallery. A 60-foot wall can also be of the men’s classic style sneakers and done, please tell me directly.” voice can have with consumers.” For used as a projection screen. Other fea- women’s Gommino loafers. On Monday, hawk-eyed reporters at Jenner, the power of the press pales in Pants on Fire the pro-Brexit Daily Mail observed that comparison to well-timed selfies. Two British luxury brands – Amanda Morgan is not immune to a bit of fashion — RACHEL BROWN Wakeley and Mulberry – have been fancy herself, and carries an oxblood caught in a war of words between Mulberry Bayswater bag, which currently Prime Minister Theresa May and David retails for about 850 pounds, or $1,068. Expanding the Cameron’s former education secretary Morgan has made it clear her bag is Nicky Morgan. more than a decade old, and was a gift. Vince World Morgan has accused May of prof- While this is yet another intra-Tory Vince is broadening its repertoire. The ligacy in her purchase of a pair of battle about how and when Brexit pro- company will launch third-party products brownish-gold Amanda Wakeley leather cess should unfold, Daily Mail columnist at its stores in an effort to offer a lifestyle trousers, which she wore at home during Quentin Letts thinks it’s also nasty and experience to customers. The Vince Col- a recent shoot for The Sunday Times of anti-feminist. lective will be comprised of a selection London — and more recently for work at “Nicky Morgan claims to be both a of home products, art and accessories, No. 10 Downing Street. modern churchgoer and an ardent femi- including apothecary, ceramics, jewelry, In the shoot, the fashion-loving prime nist. Her remarks were hardly evangelical candles, totes and books. The merchan- minister teamed the 995-pound, or or sisterly. But then consistency and dise will be sold exclusively at the brand’s $1,250, flared trousers with a pair of grace have seldom been much discern- stores on Madison Avenue in New York black-and-white Burberry sneakers and ible…since this ambitious but clumsily and at The Grove in Los Angeles, as well a dark, draped sweater. May has long duplicitous politician first entered the as online at vince.com. Vince Collective Lifestyle been a lover of fashion, wearing designer (House of) Commons in 2010,” he wrote. “Offering a thoughtfully curated Product Collection brands including Roland Mouret, Anya — SAMANTHA CONTI Memo Pad

Cosmopolitan, who was moved up to starring role on it. Women’s World Hearst corporate in the role of chief “In airports, and it’s always in airports, Michael’s restaurant played host to content officer in September. (The people come up to me and go, ‘Oh my what may have been one of the most promotion was conspicuously well-timed god, are you, are you, are you Cecile powerful all-female rooms in New York to the retirement of editorial director Richards?’ The other day it happened on Monday. Ellen Levine, as well as the early stages to me in LAX and I said, ‘ No,’ and they The occasion was the Hearst 100 of filming of Cosmopolitan’s E! show “So went: ‘Tilda Swinton?’ I said ‘no, no,’” luncheon, which was formerly known Cosmo,” which debuts in February. A plot Coles said. “What depresses me is that as the Cosmo 100, and guests included twist built into the season is Coles’ literal I don’t mind being compared to either of Diane von Furstenburg, Arianna Huffing- passing of the baton to Promaulayko.) those, but they said, ‘ Tabatha Coffey?,’ ton, Christine Quinn, Tina Brown, Diane Ever the performer, Coles warmed up who is a reality TV hairdresser. I finally Diane Sawyer, Cynthia Erivo, Sawyer, Gretchen Carlson, Gayle King, the crowd with a few jokes: “I’m told that volunteered and said, ‘No, I’m Joanna Ali Wentworth and Joanna Coles. Norah O’Donnell, Peggy Siegal, Tammy [vice president-elect] Mike Pence begins Coles,’ and they literally went: ‘mehhh.’ Haddad, Aerin Lauder and A+E chief every meeting with a prayer. I’ll begin our It’s so humiliating and depressing and after the election is that we, actually, at women’s media for pro-women stories executive Nancy Dubuc, among others. entrée with a prayer and it goes like this: it’s a true story.” Planned Parenthood had a 900 percent during the election. From the Hearst side, Elle’s Robbie ‘Dear God, protect us from Mike Pence.’ Despite the room of power women, increase in women calling to get IUDs “Women’s magazines and the women’s Myers joined her fellow editors in chief Whoever your God is, whoever you pray Richards was the real star of the after- [birth control] the day after the election,” media have done a heroic job and they did AP / RE X/Shutterstock ugstein/ Michele Promaulayko of Cosmopolitan, to, pray as hard as you can.” noon, delivering a few remarks on the Richards said. Some of them literally this election in putting women first and Glenda Bailey of Harper’s Bazaar, Anne Before turning over the mic over to importance of activism during a Donald said, ‘I want to get an IUD that will last the telling the stories that no one would tell. Fulenwider from Marie Claire and Town & Planned Parenthood president Cecile Trump administration. full duration of the Trump administration.’ That’s the most important. That’s what we Country’s Stellene Volandes. Richards, Coles shared a “disappointing” “Many women woke up on the morn- “They should name the IUD ‘The need you to do more than ever,” she said. The lunch was hosted by Joanna anecdote that may change, depending ing of the election in a dead panic...one Trump,’” said actress Ali Wentworth in- “This is no time to wait around.” Coles, the former editor in chief of ay photograph by A by M ay photograph on the success of “So Cosmo” and her reason I knew women were panicked terrupting Richards, who congratulated — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD