SUMMER 2013

Dames who FARM

2 013 Grande Dame Nominees IN THIS ISSUE FEATURES SUMMER•2 O13

4-15 Dames who Farm Dames Grow the Food for the Fork While researching my latest book, The Best of Virginia Farms, I 16-18 2013 Grande Dame Nominees found that the state’s first farmers were women: Virginia Indian women. They were responsible for growing the crops that sus- 19 Dames Gear up for Conference tained their tribes. Where were the men? Out hunting. 20 Works Added to LDEI's Carol Brock Collection Somewhere between the Indian nation and today’s mega-farms, men took over the nation’s farming – and not for the better. 21 Last Dinner on the Titanic Today we have “factory” farms turning out fruits and vegetables developed for their shipping quality, not for their flavor. For- 12 Global Culinary Postcard tunately, food professionals such as Les Dames helped fuel the better-food movement with an emphasis on eating local. Last spring, my chapter held a “Farm-to-Fork” tour to nearby DEPARTMENTS Rappahannock County, Va., where we visited several farms and enjoyed a luncheon prepared by Dame farmer Susan James (see 24-27 Chapter News page 9), co-chair Drew Faulkner, and pastry chef Bev Bates. I began to wonder how many other farmers are members. So I 28-29 Member Milestones perused the “Professional Skills Index” in the back of the LDEI directory (thank you, Greg), and found nearly a half page of 31 Submission Guidelines Farmer/Growers. Having worked with our Quarterly magazine for the better part of two decades, I remembered that we had never done a feature about farmers. So after 200 emails and many phone calls, I On the Cover: Liz Mulholland (Northeast) coaxed stories and photos from many of these remarkable, busy and her goats at Valley View Farm. Photos by women for the feature you can read on pages 4 to 15. Kindra Clineff (Northeast). Kindra travels far The response was gratifying. “Too often the farmer is forgotten! and wide specializing in location photography Thanks for doing this,” wrote LuAnne Bonanno (Northeast), for commercial and editorial clients. She see page 12. My pleasure – and I hope, yours. regularly produces feature assignments for In the photo here, you see me with a hand-crafted Colonial national magazines, and her images have hayfork, made from white oak by a craftsman in Virginia’s appeared in numerous books. When not chasing light, Kindra can be found cultivating Shenandoah Valley. Sometimes people forget that farm tools had heirloom vegetables and attempting to tame to be made by hand for thousands of years. No Home Depot in the perennial garden of her17th century home 1607. in Essex County, Massachusetts. Her passion Also in this issue are the seven nominees for Grande Dame—a for local agriculture has brought “Magnificent Seven.” See pages 16 to 18 for synopses of their about several personal projects. One amazing accomplishments. Add to all this, interesting chapter of her favorite has been recording programs and much more about Dames from every chapter. the life and times of Valley View Keep the Dame news coming. Please send information for the Farm in her hometown of Topsfield. fall issue to editor Susan Slack before or by August 1 per Submis- Kindra’s latest book, Farmhouse A TexAs Modern, a book she created with sion Guidelines on page 31). See you in Austin, I hope. stylist Terry John Woods and the third Wine & Dine in a series, will be out in August. CiCi Williamson, Editor Summer Quarterly experience A walk-around tasting featuring The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by Texas Dames’ wineries, restaurants supporting the development of new and existing chapters. It provides guidance, education, 2013 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members. and artisan food products.

President Second Vice President Secretary Chapter Board Liaisons Immediate Past President Mary Ellen Griffin LORI WILLIS Amy Hoopes Maria Gomez Mary S. Moore Dames: $45 | Public: $55 Owner Director of Communications EVP Global Sales/Chief Manager, Global Accounts Founder/CEO Thursday, October 24, 7-9 pm www.myMEGusta.com Schnuck Markets, Inc. Marketing Officer HelmsBriscoe The Cook's Warehouse 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 11420 Lackland Rd. Wente Family Estates 11241 Avenida del Gatao 1075 Zonolite Road, NE, Suite 1-C AT&T Conference Center Stamford, CT 06902 St. Louis, MO 63146 5565 Tesla Road San Diego, CA 92126 Atlanta, GA 30306 (203) 975 7610 (314) 994-4602 Livermore, CA 94550 (858) 633-7515 (404) 492-9018 1900 University Avenue [email protected] [email protected] (209) 602-7139 [email protected] [email protected] Austin, Texas 78705 [email protected] Braiden Rex-Johnson Twitter @Cookswarehouse Founder/Owner First Vice President Third Vice President Treasurer Northwest Wining and Dining, LLC Executive Director Beth Allen CRICKETT KARSON Ann Stratte 98 Union Street, Suite 1009 Greg Jewell Founder/President Owner Owner Seattle, WA 98101 President Beth Allen Associates, Inc. LiefKarson Public Relations Ltd. My Personal Chef (206) 233-9491 AEC Management Resources 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 23533 Merchantile Road, Suite 118 100 Severn Avenue, #506 [email protected] P.O. Box 4961 New York, NY 10011 Beachwood, OH 44122 Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 Stacy Zeigler, CMP, CPCE Louisville, KY 40204 (212) 206-1138 (216) 831-3767 @ (410) 903-2682 Director of Sales (502) 456-1851 x1 LDEIaustin [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Bold American Events [email protected] Twitter @LaDamefoodie 877 W. Marietta Street NW Presented by the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier Studio K-102 Atlanta, GA 30318-5285 (678) 302-3232 [email protected] 2 Les Dames d’Escoffier International 2013: The Year of the Grande Dame, Partners and Leaders

As the halfway point in my term approach- Another optional pre-conference event on es, I’m reflecting on what a terrific year this Thursday is a Green Tables Food Day/Com- has been, and the best is yet to come, particu- munity Service morning at the Sustainable larly in Austin where we will have so much to Food Center, followed by lunch and a tour celebrate, learn, and enjoy. at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary As this Quarterly is being written, ballots for Arts. Other optional activities will include the Grande Dame are about to be distributed an Austin Food Truck Tour, an Urban Farms to the Chapters for voting. You’ll read about Tour and Lunch with the Farmers, and a visit this year’s fabulous nominees elsewhere in to Salt Lick Bar-B-Que, enjoying Fall Creek this issue. Each and every one of these ladies Wines with lunch and a Duchman Winery is an inspiration to us all. Tour. Chapters: Don’t forget to vote for your If at all possible, plan your travel to arrive in top three by June 15! The winner will be time to take advantage of these great optional announced this summer, and she will be pre-Conference offerings on Thursday. You honored on October 26 at the Grande Dame won’t regret it! Gala Dinner at the Austin Hyatt’s Grand Beth Allen, 1st VP/President-Elect, and Ballroom. Brent Frei, Director of Partnerships, are hard Plans for the Austin Conference are starting at work securing support for LDEI. If you to jell nicely. The keynote speaker will be Roz have leads or ideas as to potential Partners, Mallet, CEO/President at PhaseNext Hospi- please be sure to pass the information along tality, and National Restaurant Association for their follow-up. Chair of the Board of Directors. On Thursday evening, October 24, we kick Chapter Presidents and any Dame interested Best regards, off Conference with the optional “Dames in learning more about how to effectively run Across Texas “walk-around tasting that fea- a chapter should attend the Chapter Leader- tures Texas Dames, their restaurants, spirits, ship Forum on Thursday afternoon where wineries, and food products. I personally Attorney Jackie Henson will speak on “Run- Mary Ellen Griffin cannot wait to sample delicious foods and ning Your Chapter Like a Business, Part Two” President, Les Dames d’Escoffier beverages from all over the Lone Star State. --focusing on 501(c)(3) compliance and International This is an event not to be missed. other important legal issues affecting all of us. A TexAs Wine & Dine experience A walk-around tasting featuring Texas Dames’ wineries, restaurants and artisan food products.

Dames: $45 | Public: $55 Thursday, October 24, 7-9 pm AT&T Conference Center 1900 University Avenue Austin, Texas 78705

Sysco was a LDEI Gold Partner in 2012. Here Brent Frei, Director of Partnerships, met with the LDEI Board in Denver this January Marsha Palanci (New York), Mary Moore (Atlanta), and Katherine are Trish Pohanka, Chef Neil,Doherty, and Shelley to review the partnership program. Clockwise from Brent’s left: Second Vice Presi- Newell Smith (Washington, D.C.) participate in the Chapter Leadership Carr at the Partnership Luncheon in St. Louis. dent Lori Willis (St. Louis), Treasurer Ann Stratte (Washington, D.C.), and Third Vice Forum at the St. Louis LDEI Conference. Photo by Lori Willis. Photo by CiCi Williamson. President Crickett Karson (Cleveland). Photo by Braiden Rex-Johnson.

@LDEIaustin

Presented by the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier SAVE THE DATES! H LDEI International Conference, October 24 – 27, 2013, Austin, Texas H

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 3 Dames who FARM By CiCi Williamson economy are impacted by their food choice,” (Washington, DC) Celeste Albers confides Celeste. “It is wonderful to farm (Charleston) close to such a vibrant city. The restaurant Farm to fork. Plastic forks on picnics; Green Grocer community in Charleston is so supportive. Rosebank Plantation Every week, we sell our products at the sterling at stellar celebrations. stainless Wadmalaw Island, S.C. Charleston Farmers Market, and we have a steel at family meals; Old very loyal customer base. I don’t know if we English serving forks at “My husband George and I met at the would be able to make a living anywhere else. Charleston Farmers Market in 1994,” said “We face challenges that plague all farmers “Downton Abbey.” From Celeste. “We were farming individually, then such as weather, cost and availability of sup- the farm to any fork. joined forces in 1995. We became the first plies, and, especially, distance from suppli- certified organic vegetable farm in Charles- ers. We enjoy proximity to market but must Speared on the tines, the ton County and started the first CSA. travel great distances to obtain feed for our products of our farms: “Labor to harvest our crops became livestock, especially during the nationwide often mass produced, but if harder to get as area farms went out of drought in 2012. The corn for chicken feed business and migrant workers stopped had toxins and mold; hay was essentially un- lucky, local. coming to Wadmalaw Island. In 2000 available. The high cost of gasoline and diesel Dames-–we who know we got our first Jersey cow and started is hard on us as well. phasing vegetables out and dairy in. Now, “I am a new member of Les Dames, quality victuals--opt for people come from miles around to obtain although Nathalie Dupree asked me to join lovingly, sustainably grown, free range eggs, raw cow’s milk (from grass years ago. I know many of the Charleston fed Jersey cows), grass fed beef, and pasture nearby nourishment. And who Dames and decided to join them and be more raised pork. Many chefs were disappointed involved in the community. I also felt it was a knows this best? Dames who when we stopped growing vegetables. We great way to network with and enjoy fellow- farm. Read on for some amazing now supply them with eggs, beef, and ship with other women in food. We hosted heirloom pork comes from heritage Ossabaw Lowcountry Field Feast last fall to benefit a farm-to-fork stories about Dames Island hogs. nonprofit that supports local independent who milk the goats, make the “I felt the call to farm in order to provide farms. I hope to have Les Dame events at the wholesome, nourishing food and to teach farm,” said Celeste. cheese, feed the chickens, pasture folks about where their food comes from and the cattle, and pick the produce. how their lives, the environment, and the 4 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Jeanne MacCormack (San Francisco) Owner, MacCormack Ranch Rio Vista, Calif. www.maccormackranch.com “My family has been raising red winter dryland wheat and sheep on this ranch since 1896. We were the first supplier of lamb to Niman Ranch 20 years ago in a relationship that is ongoing,” says Jeanne. “The majority of the 1500 lambs we sell yearly are sold to Niman.” “A very few lambs go directly to restaurants and charcuterie/butch- ers, and we raise and sell about 300 goats a year strictly for restau- rants and butchers. The wool from our white-face ewes, mostly a Rambouillet/ Dorset cross, goes to a warehouse in New Mexico for com- mercial wool processors. Some of our wheat is sold to General Mills and some goes to animal feed. In a new enterprise, we have 50 acres of wine grapes which we sell to Gallo. “My cousin Marsha McBride (San Francisco) proprietor of Café Rouge in Berkeley, told me about LDEI, as well as did Roberta Klugman, a food publicist and writer in Berkeley. As a farmer, I felt greatly honored to be inducted to such an august group of cooks! This year we will have a lamb picnic on the ranch for the Northern California Chapter and a short workshop on ‘What every chef needs to know about lamb production.’ We hope they will enjoy it and learn from it. “I certainly think that our reasons for farming and LDEI’s mission are compatible. We aim to grow the best food as sustainably as possible, using environmentally responsible and humane principles in all we do. We take pleasure in the notion that our products are largely sold to a local market, even though some of the companies like Gallo or General Mills are very large. “The satisfactions of farming are many—to continue a family tradition in a beloved place, to use the resources we have as wisely as we can, to work with animals—sheep, goats, dogs, horses. The thing I like best about farming is that it is never the same in any two years. There are always new things to learn and new ways to adapt to conditions,” concludes Jeanne.

Moveable coops give chickens fresh land and distributes the fertilizers. Photos by Sarah O’Kelley (Charleston)

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 5 Bonnie Tucker L’Etoile (Northeast) Owner, Four Star Farms Northfield, Mass. www.fourstarfarms.com

Bonnie L’Etoile and husband Gene began farming part time in 1977 on 11 acres of rented land that nobody else wanted. Bonnie was a teacher at the Uni- versity of Rhode Island and Gene was an engineer. In 1986, they went into agriculture full time, buying a former dairy farm in Northfield, MA where they started Four Star Farms, Inc. (L’Etoile means “star” in French.) Their two sons and families live on the farm and help operate it. The farm produces several varieties of small grains, freshly milled flours, hops, and turf. Bonnie says, “We primarily sell our grains and flours to chefs in the greater Boston area, bakeries, co-op and gourmet markets, and some CSAs. We’ve recently expanded our relationship with the Whole Foods franchise and are hopeful to have our grains/flour available in bulk departments throughout New England.” Sales for their grains and hops has been spurred by the rapid growth of nearby microbreweries and distilleries looking to make truly “local” beer and liquors, such as Northampton Brewing Company, The People’s Pint, Wormtown Brewery, Jack’s Abby, Berkshire Brewing Company, and Peak Organic. “Two years ago I met a Northeast Chapter Dame who was passionate about the organization and its connection to farm women and other women in the food industry. I was asked to join and have been in- with freshly milled flour from our farm that week. We troduced to a wide variety of wonderful women very also host farm tours and conferences for legislators much involved in foods from literally the ground level (at all levels) and professional organizations of our and up,” Bonnie says. industries.” She did a program for the Northeast Chapter in the The farm has donated its products to Habitat for summer of 2011. “Seven Dames came for an over- Humanity, “Extreme Makeover” home building night farm experience to see how we grow, process, projects, town municipal sites, and the Governor’s and package our crops of turf, hops, and 10 variet- participation in Boston food day, a project making ies of grains. Our evening meal was made of Dame 1,000 loaves of bread for New Jersey victims of Super specialties, and breakfast included pancakes made Storm Sandy

Summer and Winter vegetables

6 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Maya Dailey Pam Williams Cooper (Phoenix Chapter) (Hawaii) Owner, Maya’s Farm Co-owner, Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory Phoenix Ariz. Kailua-Kona, Hawaii www.mayasfarm.com www.ohcf.us.

Maya’s Farm, owned by Maya Dailey, is a Pam Cooper is the first tree-to-bar producer small, sustainable operation which produces of single-origin chocolate in the United high-quality specialty vegetables, herbs, flowers States. If you watched “Turn on the Dark,” and eggs for local markets, restaurants and schools. the final episode of Alton Brown’s Good Eats A community-supported agriculture (CSA) program gives subscribers TV series, you would have seen Pam and her a weekly supply of produce that is cut by hand in the field daily. husband Bob Cooper, owners of the Original Nestled up to South Mountain Park in Phoenix, the site is an ancient Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, touring Alton around their farm in Kailua-Kona, Hawaii. river bed where sandy soils and natural Artesian wells create a perfect The couple moved to the west coast of the growing environment. Maya attributes her success to the support of “Big Island” and in 1997 pioneered mak- local, chef-owned restaurants, metropolitan farmers’ markets and loyal ing their locally grown cacao beans into CSA members. She also has a CSA program. chocolate. Milk and dark forastero chocolate, Before she began to nurture crops, Maya’s interest was nurturing criollo dark chocolate, roasted forestero nibs, people. She entered nursing school after obtaining a B.S degree in and criollo nibs are their main products. biology and geology. Microbiology became her favorite subject, which “In the beginning,” says Pam, “the challenge was to provide a valuable scientific foundation for growing tasty, was finding equipment for small-batch chocolate processing. healthful food. Now, it’s marketing our products so we can utilize all the choco- Maya’s entry into farming began gradually. While working in the late our farmers are producing for us. We taught these farmers how to grow cacao. A current challenge is our major drought. We restaurant industry in Santa Fe, she grew herbs and sold them to local irrigate our orchard but when there’s less rain, we have to pay for establishments. After moving to her cousins’ dairy farm in Arizona, she watering our trees every 10 days.” added edible flowers and chickens for eggs to her part-time venture. Pam’s friends and island culinarians invited me to join Les The giant step into full-time urban farming came in 2006. An op- Dames. “LDEI’s mission is complimentary to what we do. We portunity arose to take over market-farm production at The Farm at have two weekly plantation tours to educate visitors from around South Mountain while working with fellow Dame Pat Christofolo. the world how we grow cacao and convert it into chocolate. We From a quarter-acre garden, Maya’s Farm has grown to nearly seven also share our knowledge with other prospective growers and acres. In her words, “I was fortunate to hire a wise and experienced producers.” farm manager who taught me that I should not fight with the earth while working, but get in tune with it; ‘dance’ with it.” “Chocolate is Aloha!” Maya uses no pesticides, herbicides, or commercial fertilizers and —Pam Cooper has recently earned CCOF Organic Certification. She says, “I am dedicated to preserving and nurturing local, naturally grown farming. And I’m motivated by what appears to be a paradigm shift away from agribusiness — back to the small farm. These are my thoughts to live “We participate at numerous events: Quisine of Hearts to ben- by and to farm by. efit Big Island keiki nutrition awareness; the statewide Chocolate “Fellow Dame Terri Nacke first told me about Les Dames years ago. Festival on O’ahu that promotes our cacao industry; Big Island Her interest in the school garden program and Green Table Initia- Chocolate Festival that benefits the local community college tive then furthered my interest. Farming is where my hearts lives and culinary program; and Mealani’s Taste of the Hawaiian Range that benefits our local grass-fed beef industry. We also donate our thrives,” says Maya. “The challenge is that farming is like gambling: It chocolate and tours for numerous silent auction fundraisers at six is financially risky!” events annually. Pam participated in the Hawaii Chapter’s Julia Child birthday celebration. Her chocolate was used to make a cake by choco- latier Cathy Smoot Barrett of Kailua Candy Company. Interna- tionally, we participated in the Dames’ Green Tables Food Day Farm-to-Fork initiative in October 2012. OHCF supplies chefs, does mail order and retail sales, and sells chocolate after their plantation/factory tours.

Aerial shot of our farm provided by Produce to Product Inc/ Mark Miller

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 7 Liz Mulholland (Northeast) Valley View Farm Topsfield, Mass. www.valleyviewcheese.com

Valley View Farm is Elizabeth's family home. The house and barn sit on a high hill with expansive views of the Ipswich River, Topsfield, and the wood- ed, rolling hills of Essex County. Peter and Liz Mulholland started Valley View Farmstead Cheese in 1998. They produce handcrafted farmstead goat-milk and artisanal cow-milk cheeses for fine restaurants, groceries, and retail sale. Valley View Farm also raises chickens, turkeys, and bees, and every March, boils down sap from sugar maple trees to produce about 40 gallons of maple syrup. “I love to travel, but leaving the farm for more than a weekend is very difficult,” said Liz. “The last time I went further away than New England was my honeymoon visit- ing farms and dairies in Scotland. Satisfactions include the peace and joy that I get from ‘every day’ life on the farm: the exhaustion of hard work, the rhythm and seasonality of things (breeding and kidding season); dealing with variations in the milk/cheese throughout the year; partnerships within the family and the community around us; and especially watching my children embrace the lifestyle and bringing their own perspectives and ideas to what we do. “I am involved in the farming community in my town and I’m chair of the historic commission. I met Nancy Matheson-Burns, founder of the Northeast Chapter. She is an inspirational and driven woman as far as supporting the local food movement (and in many other ways). She epitomizes what it means to be a Dame and encouraged me to join the new chapter. “My family has always grown food and raised animals, so it was natural for me to become enmeshed in the revival of the farm/food movement in the northeast. Les Dames clearly complements this mindset and provides great venues for combining different but connected skills and ideas. I am hoping to host something at our farm for our chapter after we open our underground cheese cave, which we started in April.” Liz studied history at Bowdoin College and historic preservation at Penn. Still very much involved in preserving the architectural heritage of New Eng- land, she divides her time caring for sons Andrew and Henry and the goats, making and selling cheese, and volunteering in her community to preserve and promote history, architecture, farming, and life in a small town.

8 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Susan James Teena Borek (Washington, D.C.) (Miami) Stonyman Gourmet Farmer President/Owner, All Locally Grown Produce, LLC Washington, Va. Princeton, Fla. www. stonymangourmetfarmer.com www.teenaspride.com

Just down the street from the exalted Inn Martina “Teena” Borek was named State of at Little Washington is Susan James’s farm Florida 2004 Woman of the Year in Agriculture. She grows and ships Teenaspride specialty vegeta- store. It operates in an early mercantile and farm bles (red and yellow vine-ripe tomatoes, heirloom dooryard garden in “Little” Washington, Va., on tomatoes, arugula, and hydroponic herbs) and the piedmont side of the Blue Ridge Mountains about 70 miles does CSA. This native of Newfoundland became from Washington, D.C. The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation a farmer of necessity. Her Redland, Florida, notes, “It is--without hyperbole--one of the most intact early stores husband died tragically in 1980 at the age of 24, in the broader Chesapeake region…It contains more original ele- leaving Teena with two toddler sons. Knowing ments, inside and out, than any other known early Virginia store.” little about farming, she instantly began running Here as well as in Maryland (at the Rockville and Kensington the family’s 500-acre vegetable farm. farm markets and in the Montgomery Farm Women’s Cooperative Farming for the last 35 years, Teena was once the Market in Bethesda) is where savvy “Fromage-ophiles” and farm- only female farmer in Dade County and was the first county farmer to use a linear irrigation system and a computer in based-food aficionados can purchase Susan’s premium farmstead her work. She partnered with researchers to experiment with higher- cheeses, condiments, savories, and custom meats. Her family busi- yielding varieties and more nutritious crops, resulting in the renown ness is set on Stonyman Farm, an 18th century homestead on the Florida 7862 Tomato being commercially grown first at her farm. Shenandoah Valley side of Stonyman Mountain, 30 minutes across “I was asked by Elizabeth Gardner Adams, owner of Gardner’s Mar- the mountains. Susan’s family has farmed in Virginia since 1725, kets, to join Les Dames. She told me having a farmer’s perspective in her and she spent much of her childhood at family farms throughout chapter would be very helpful to its mission being carried out. Elizabeth the Old Dominion. had always been a strong supporter of local family farms, so I joined Susan and husband Alan lived in France for more than 25 years when she asked. and bring the appreciation of farmstead cheeses acquired there to “Through our mission, Les Dames show how important it is to protect their business. In the tradition of fromage blanc frais, they make family farms by supporting local farmers and, in turn, the farmers have the ability to protect the farm land and safely feed the country Ariana fresh herb or fruit cow and goat cheeses and ripened cheeses. Kumpis and Dorothee Rubin helped develop and promote SAFFE “Farming can be a tough row to hoe,” Susan observes. “In the (Save American Family Farms from Extinction), a grassroots effort by agricultural areas around the Nation’s Capital, it’s necessary to the general public to encourage local stores to buy local--not foreign- practice value-added agriculture to compete and survive. Our ag- -produce. SAFFFE (www.saffe.com) was formed in a way that the ricultural products translate value in other ways: pastured animals website and materials can be used by all chapters. into fine meats; milk into premium cheese; grapes into good wine, “Besides dealing with Mother Nature, all farmers continually must superb farm ingredients to outstanding prepared foods.” comply with new government rules and regulations while Free Trade Stonyman’s own challenges include equipment, logistics, payroll, Agreements allow cheap foreign produce to be imported below our communications, and inventory management. Each new season growing costs. Each day more family farms go bankrupt. We ourselves generates an ever-growing to-do list at the farm itself. Susan’s are deep in farm debt.” Teena is Past President of the Dade County Farm Bureau. She serves mission is to keep quality at the forefront at the markets--at the on the board of directors of the Florida Tomato Committee, Florida Stonyman Mercantile (where guests can enjoy meals al fresco in the Fruit & Vegetable Association, Community Bank of Florida and spacious garden) and at Stonyman Farm. Everglades Community Association. In 2007 her farm was featured in Katherine Newell Smith was Susan’s link to LDEI, and joining episode 302 of the TV show “Americas Heartland.” Les Dames cemented Susan’s link to the French culinary tradition. Susan actively participates in chapter events, teaching “There is great satisfaction and pride in knowing a cheese-making class at the our farm’s hard work provides customers and March 2012 symposium, co- families with fresh produce that besides being tasty chairing a Farm-to-Fork tour still contains all the minerals, vitamins and micro to Rappahannock County last June, and working to orga- nutrients a person needs to sustain good health.” nize an agricultural outreach —Teena Borek program within Green Tables.

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 9 Sandy Winokur (San Antonio) Sandy Oaks Orchards www.Sandyoaks.com

One of the first commercial olive orchards in Texas, Sandy Oaks Orchards®, owned and operated by Saundra C. (Sandy) The main orchard itself covers a degrees including a Ph.D. at Bowl- Greece, and Spain. Winokur, is 40-acre tract of the ranch, with ing Green State University in Ohio. Sandy decided to return to her 20 minutes south some 11,000 trees planted among She taught school in Germany, native Texas to live closer to her of San Antonio. the massive live oaks dotting the traveled around Europe, taught in family and establish her own olive Its South Texas climate and deep sandy property. the Bay Area of California, and met orchard. Today, Sandy’s dream is a soil makes the orchard ideal for olives. Sandy frequently holds educa- her husband, Dr. Stephen Winokur thriving reality. Through hard work tional seminars, tastings of olive oils at Texas Christian University and sheer grit, those old thumbnail from around the world and cooking (TCU). They lived in Chicago and sketches came to life in the rows of classes emphasizing the use of New York where Sandy studied art lovely olive trees that grace Sandy olive oil in cuisines typical of at several prestigious academies. Oaks Olive Orchard. olive growing regions of Following Stephen’s untimely As a member of the San Antonio the world. In homage to passing in 1988, painting proved Chapter, Sandy hosted “Olives Sandy’s ancestors who Sandy’s most abiding comfort. Ole” in 2009 and 2010, a greatly were ranchers, Sandy After studying art in Tuscany and successful event that raised a lot of Oaks also produces traveling around the Mediterra- scholarship money. Sandy’s motto, crossbred beef cattle. nean, she returned to her Manhat- “Hecho a Mano Con Amor,” After growing up on tan apartment, illustrating chil- (Made By Hand with Love), not Texas ranches, her diverse dren’s books. But she often found only reflects the care that goes into path to becoming an olive herself drawing the picturesque our products but also the manner farmer included earning several old olive trees she’d seen in Italy, in which we tend to our trees.”

farmers in the country. the city,’ which can often be a Dru Rivers Full Belly products are sold to missing link with food profes- (San Francisco) restaurants, at farmers markets, sionals. My reasons for farming Owner, Full Belly Farm Guinda, Calif. and through CSAs. Dru says, and Les Dames’ mission have www.fullbellyfarm.com “We are committed to fostering many similarities mostly on the sustainability on all levels, from educational level. I love bringing Full Belly Farm, certified-organic fertility in our soil and care for people together to learn about since 1985, is a 350-acre farm the environment, to stable em- farming and how good food is located in the beautiful Capay ployment for our farm workers. grown; my role here as a woman Valley north of the San Francisco “We strive to be good stewards farmer is to encourage other Bay. Dru Rivers started the farm of this farm, so that this genera- young woman that farming is a year earlier, and today, with help tion and future generations may really viable business for them. from about 60 employees, the farm continue to be nourished by the “My main satisfactions are pro- produces over 80 different crops-- healthy and vibrant food that we viding others with good, healthy an amazing diversity of vegetables, produce.” food; working outside; work- herbs, nuts, flowers, and fruits. The “Many of our customers are ing hard; and showcasing our farm also has a flock of chickens, a chefs from the San Francisco farm for educational purposes. herd of sheep, a tribe of goats, and Chapter,” says Dru, “and they Mother Nature always provides several cows. spoke to me of joining the the biggest challenges for any Dru also plans the much- group to bring the ‘farm to farm on a daily basis!” acclaimed annual Hoes Down Harvest Festival for 5,000 people each year at her farm. The festival “We strive to be good stewards of this farm, so celebrates rural life and sustainable food production. Through such that this generation and future generations programs to the general public, may continue to be nourished by the healthy Full Belly creates awareness of farm and vibrant food that we produce.” realities and stresses the importance of farms in our society. She also —Dru Rivers serves on many boards of nonprofits working to improve small organic

10 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Judith Schad (Chicago) Owner/Cheesemaker, Capriole Greenville, Ind. www.capriolegoatcheese.com

“My lawyer husband, Larry, and I were basically city folk who got bit by the farm bug in the late 1970’s. We moved from the suburbs of Louisville, KY, to our 80-acre Greenville farm in 1977. I was a PhD candidate for Renaissance Literature and Creative Writing at University of Louis- ville. We knew very little about farming but wanted a big garden, a few animals, Mary Dunford and a simpler life for ourselves and our (San Antonio) three children--the 'dream.' When we ran the farm’s title, we discovered it President, Natures Herb Farm, had been owned by Larry’s great, great grandfather in the mid-1800s.” South Texas Herbs Inc Life as a goat farmer began when a neighbor suggested a milk goat instead www.naturesherbfarm.com of a cow. By 1982 the goats were a 4-H project; we were milking about 12-15, and swimming in milk! My love of cooking and French goat cheeses "I discovered herbs when I needed a change led me to take a home cheesemaking class and began to make cheese in my in my life. The magnificent thing about them kitchen. Not always good! is they're so soothing and can be used for so “In 1983 we met a local cheesemaker who offered to lease us space. By 1988 many different things. To touch the soil, to we were hauling small amounts of milk every 3 days and made cheese for fine smell the scent of fresh herbs -- after they be- restaurants and retail stores in Louisville. Farm markets did not exist and we come part of your life, you'll wonder how you had few local sales to support our venture. It was at a Chicago AIWF food ever lived without them," opines Mary Dunford, who, in 1984, event, the Best of the Midwest Market, that our business bloomed. made her passion for plants a reality when she opened Nature's “By 1990 we were selling our cheeses in Chicago’s best restaurants and Herb Farm. retail stores. We built a small cheese plant on our farm and this has dictated With a homemade greenhouse made primarily of plywood, the nature of our business, market niche, and lifestyle. Unwittingly, we she began selling her potted plants and fresh-cut herbs in the became unique by producing cheeses only from our own goats’ milk. San Antonio area. Today the farm is primarily a wholesale sup- “Now our goal is to offer our genetics and support to other small dairy- plier to grocery stores throughout Texas (HEBs, Krogers, and men in our area. My daughter Kate is now my business partner and also Central Markets), nurseries, and markets. They occasionally sell lives on the farm. Our mission is to create a variety of distinctive, hand- to the public. crafted cheeses with passion and pride; offer them to our customers with “I take great satisfaction in growing large varieties of herbs,” the best possible service; and by methods that sustain our business, land, says Mary. “Nature's Herb Farm grows over 300 varieties of farmers, staff, and community.” herbs, succulents, vegetables, annuals, and perennials. We grow in large green houses from the first cutting to a full potted “The greatest satisfaction, as well as the challenge, for plant. From the very beginning, the plants are naturally grown any farmer is adapting to the surprises and variables that and adopted to our weather before going out to our customers for sale. The challenge in farming is to be able to have healthy nature constantly presents.” varieties of herbs and vegetables for people who want to grow —Judy Schad and use herbs for their own use.” “I became a Dame in 2004 when Cathy Targsovic told me about the work they do for the community and the incredible, nice, fun ladies who are members. I am involved with fund rais- ing money for those in our community who are in need.” Mary founded The San Antonio Herb Society and the Texas Herb Growers Association and is an active organizer of the annual San Antonio Herb Market. This year's market was a great success. The vendors joined together at the Pearl Brewery Complex to showcase and sell their herbs.

Sage, pineapple sage, and rosemary.

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 11 Shore on the upper third of the Chesapeake Bay. Ann Yonkers When we bought the farm in 1991, it was nine acres (Washington, D.C.) of the original 80 with a barn, a tenant house, and Farmer, Pot Pie Farm the ‘big’ house. The farm is on a point with 270 Co-Director, FRESHFARM Markets degrees of water around it. We are located at the www.freshfarmmarket.org convergence of Cummings and Boat Yard creeks (named for a boat yard that was burned by the Brit- Not only is Ann Yonkers a farmer at her own Pot ish during the war of 1812),” explained Ann. Pie Farm, she is also the co-director of FRESH- “We farm using organic methods. From the FARM Markets, the largest network of farmers beginning we saw the connection between our markets in the Chesapeake region. She operates waterfront farm, the farming practices we use, and 11 producer-only markets in Washington, D.C., the fate of the Chesapeake Bay. We have been haul- Maryland, and Virginia. The markets represent ing kitchen scraps to Pot Pie from DC for over 20 more than 150 farmers from 5 states, encompass- years and adding it to our compost piles of garden ing more than 9,000 acres actively farmed, and and farm materials. Using this compost in our more than 360,000 shoppers annually. market gardens and perennial beds has transformed Ann’s products--sold at the FRESHFARM Market the soil in our gardens from clay to rich humus. in St Michaels, Md. 8 miles away--are fresh eggs “I joined Les Dames in 1984 before we bought (from “150 absurdly happy laying hens”), salad Pot Pie Farm. I was a cooking teacher and a greens, micro greens, garlic, tomatoes, kale, squash, consultant. Becoming a farmers-market guru was a figs and country flowers. She says, “It is a deep plea- “Everyone who eats is game change for me and was inspired by living and sure to maintain the historical agricultural tradition. part of agriculture; most working at Pot Pie. I was the long-time chair of the ‘Pot Pye Farm’ was first mentioned in the Talbot DC Green Tables program holding market-based County, Md. land records in 1795 and described as of us just don’t realize it.” events for children. I was also part of the LDEI a waterfront farm in the region known as ‘Pot Pye.’ planning committee that developed the concept of The residents were known as ‘Pot Pyers.’” —Ann Yonkers Green Tables, and we hosted a crab-crackin’ lun- “The farm is on Maryland’s Eastern cheon at Pot Pie for the 1991 LDEI Conference.”

2009 we started a CSA program. Our weekly backyard. My everyday uniform of T-shirts, LuAnne Bonanno newsletter provides a recipe using whatever sneakers, and shorts keeps my wardrobe (Northeast) produce is fresh to help our customers try and manicure costs low! Being able to work Garden Manager, Pleasant Valley Gardens Mathuen, Mass. new vegetables. outside allows me to view nature in its glory- www.pleasantvalleygardens.com “We produce vegetables for wholesale and seasons. Our biggest frustration is labor. markets including Market Basket, Whole It’s hard to get and keep local help, and the “This farm along the Mer- Foods, Trader Joes, Associated Grow- federal government is making it harder to get rimack River about 28 miles ers of New England, and many qualified, legal foreign help. We also employ north of Boston has been local farm stands including Mann several college students seasonally. We are in in my husband’s family for Orchards of Methuen. We also raise our greenhouses mid-February, and our busi- 104 years,” says LuAnne flowers and vegetable transplants in est greenhouse season is May. Bonanno. “It has been our greenhouses and in the field. “I was approached by Laura Sapienza- involved in dairy, swine, “I derive great satisfaction from my Grabski (Boston) who was looking for new vegetable, and flower produc- farming life. I was able to be home members for the newly formed Northeast tion. Prior to World War II, over with all my children and work alongside Chapter. I found intriguing the idea of an 4,000 pigs lived on the property. The them as we farmed our land. I enjoy helping organization devoted to women in food. As Bonanno family has always strived to produce my customers live a healthier, locally grown a woman on the production end of food, I wholesome, healthy, locally grown food. In life. My commute is amazing: I work in my was honored to be asked! Les Dames is an

12 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Maria Baldwin (Charleston) Thornhill Farms McClellanville, S.C. www.ourlocalfoods.com

“I’ve been in love with food for as long as I can remember,” says Maria Baldwin, a certified Master Gardener with a degree in environmental biological sciences and a mid-career turn to the culinary field. “Whether it’s growing food in the garden, cooking up dinner for family and friends, or eating in a great restaurant, food excites me. I also love farms. I grew up on one, and my roots are still in the ground. Our- LocalFoods represents the culmination of lots of ideas and work all wrapped into an organic farm. “The idle 100-acre Thornhill Farm started me down this path. I established a working organic garden that could be used for therapy purposes for developmentally disabled youth. The small organic garden has become the emphasis on this farm now, with a budding certified organic production area that is 12 acres this year. “Thornhill farm is diverse. We grow seasonal organic vegetables year round. We also raise chickens, lamb and pigs in a beautiful rotational grazing pastured format. Our products are available at Our Local Foods @ Thornhill Farm in McClellanville, and Kitchen Table Cuisine Market in Wando. We have an online marketplace offering delivery called www.kitchentablecuisine.com. We also sell at our local farmers markets and to a few chefs in downtown Charleston. The farm-knowledge base is growing but was almost lost due to the increasing age of our farms and farmers. I feel I have been involved in helping to increase awareness and knowledge of farming practices and hope this challenging aspect of the sustainable and local agriculture movement are improving. I was introduced to Les Dames by a wonderful lady by the name of Deidre Schipani. Deidre is a champion of the role women play in the culinary world, and our Charleston Chapter is supportive of the farm-to-table movement in so many ways. We have Dames involved in restaurants, farms, and culinary school who are all connected to each other. “The opportunity to steward Thornhill Farm into viable commercial organic production and offer local and organic food to the Charleston, SC area has become my dedicated mission.” —Maria Baldwin

organization whose mission is all about food- who explore every aspect of food and enjoy this spring-we will visit several farms in this -cooking, eating, writing about, processing and blogging, writing, and eating. I am planning a area and have an authentic farm to fork lunch growing. This organization showcases women farm tour with the Northeast group sometime as part of our tour.”

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 13 worked with Farm to School and Linda Geren The Food Trust in the Philadelphia (Philadelphia) public and charter schools to improve Owner, High View Farm nutrition and food access. We partner North Hanover, N.J. with Philly Slow Food to educate www.highview-farm.com consumers and assist in increased local food access. Our chapter offers a farm LDEI Green Tables Co-chair Linda scholarship in addition to food and Geren produces naturally-raised pork, beverage scholarships. lamb and goat meat on her farm, “Most of the challenges in meat farm- which is located 42 miles east of Phila- ing are due to farm support systems. delphia. She says, “The satisfaction of The cost of owning land in New Jersey farming is immeasurable! Something is nearly prohibitive. Very few custom special occurs when you grow and butchers are USDA certified. produce your own food. Each bite has The meat farmer is left with significance and value. few options and often very “My passion for food and farming long wait periods to have have been closely entwined my entire meat processed. Farm work- life. I grew up on a farm in the Mid- ers are very hard to find as west and started my culinary career well. The work is very physi- in the 1980’s when American Cuisine cal and can be sporadic ac- featuring fresh, local food first started cording to different seasons. to gain real importance. At first, for me “Our customer base is it was all about the difference in the restaurants, health food flavor. This interest was soon followed stores and co ops; Internet by health concerns, humane treatment businesses and individuals of animals and preservation of the en- who buy directly from the vironment. Now I find myself equally farm. They are ‘locavores’ concerned with hunger, fair food and committed to using products that food access. All are closely linked and are naturally and humanly raised on directly reflected in the Les Dames a local, sustainable farm. When you organizational growth as well through provide food for others--family, friends their development of Green Tables and and customers who also appreciate this the Global Culinary Initiative. extra care and effort, the satisfaction “I joined LDEI in 1998. Over the compounds with the feeling of contrib- last several years, we have actively uting to something meaningful.”

Clare Marriage “We are proud to farm (London) according to organic Chief Executive, farming standards as we Doves Farm Foods consider ourselves to be Hungerford, West Berkshire, UK www.dovesfarm.co.uk guardians of the soil for future generations.” Doves Farm, 68 miles west of —Clare Marriage London via the M4 motorway, was established in 1978 by Clare Mar- riage and her husband Michael. “In spelt and einkorn, which had not the mid 1970’s we decided to grow been grown in the UK for many some organic centuries, continues to be a source including cookies, biscuits, snack hours developing recipes for all wheat on our fam- of excitement, watching how it bars, breakfast cereal and pasta. manner of baked goods using ily farm and quite adapts to the varying weather pat- Independent health food the large number of speciality shortly after that terns each year. We are proud to stores, farm shops and deli’s and heritage grain products took the decision farm according to organic farming were their original customer that we produce and sell. to purchase some standards as we consider ourselves base, but now Doves Farm “Having spent my working millstones so that to be guardians of the soil for future products are sold in supermar- life in the male dominated we could grind it generations. One of the biggest kets and widely available in world of the food business, I into flour when challenges we have as an organic stores all over the UK. More was intrigued to hear about it was harvested,” farm are the weed populations and recently, sales have grown from an organisation that supports says Clare. working with, rather than against, website orders. They also sup- women in this industry,” says “This was this wonderful biodiversity.” ply flour ingredients to baker- Clare. “When I heard about Les the birth of our food processing Today, Doves Farm produces ies, foodservice, travel, catering Dames I wanted to join imme- business and Doves Farm Foods speciality flours, organic and heritage and food manufacturers. diately!” The London Chapter began to sell stone-ground organic flours in domestic size packets, and “Over the last 30 years, I have has planned a program to visit wholemeal flour. The opportunity gluten free flour. Over the years they had an interesting journey in Doves Farm in July. to reintroduce grain crops such as added several other cereal based foods the kitchen spending many

14 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Ellen Ecker Ogden (Northeast) The Cook’s Garden Manchester Village, Vt. www. ellenogden.com

And for Dames who don’t want to farm but would like to grow an attrac- tive produce patch, meet Ellen Ogden, designer of kitchen gardens and co- founder of The Cook’s Garden seed cata- log. She says, “I grew organic vegetables for 20 years in southern Vermont, until I turned into a cookbook author. Now I design kitchen gardens and teach people how to grow their own food. I think it is the key to truly appreciat- ing flavor and the effort that goes into raising food. “I was fresh out of art school but instead of making art on canvas, I began to make art in the garden. Planting salad greens and herbs, combined with heirloom vegetables and fruits in waves of color, texture and culinary purpose ignited my passion for the ornamental edible garden.” “In 1984, I co-founded the seed catalog to introduce the best- tasting varieties of herbs, greens, and vegetables to home gardeners. The seed catalog grew by leaps and bound, especially after a nice article in the New York Times food section. In 1993, we couldn’t handle all the orders and sold the business to Park Seed Co.; they sold it in 2003 to WA Burpee. Throughout I controlled their focus on the best tasting produce for cooks who love to garden. Ellen’s first cookbook, From the Cooks Garden, was published in 2003. She suddenly had to go from farm girl to a public speaker. “I interviewed other cookbooks authors in the Boston area, including Barbara Lauterbach (Northeast), who suggested that I join Les Dames. I am grateful to Barbara, and have greatly benefitted from my membership and meeting o ther women in food related business. Les Dames mission to educate and enrich people’s lives through good Wendy Taggart “I wanted to produce food is absolutely complementary to my own practice.” (Dallas) and sell something “My fourth book, The Complete Kitchen Garden (2011 Abrams), Co-Owner, Burgundy Pasture Beef combines art and food through 15 original themed garden designs I would feed my for gardeners who love to cook. I offer lectures and workshops on Grandview, Texas kitchen garden designs for garden clubs, garden events, and botanic www.burgundypasturebeef.com children. gardens, and I work with schools to create gardens that enrich and I don’t think it gets encourage young minds to make the seed to table connections by Wendy Taggart is a rancher/marketer growing and cooking with fresh foods.” just south of Dallas/Ft Worth special- any more accountable izing in quality Angus Grass Fed Beef. “For a small cottage beef producer, than that.” “Growing your own produce is the one thing that is a little unusual about —Wendy Taggart Burgundy is that we do our own cut- key to truly appreciating flavor and the ting and packaging (USDA inspected) effort that goes into raising food.” that allows us to do some custom cut- ting and to better serve local Dallas/Ft —Ellen Ogden Worth restaurants,” says Wendy. “We are small; everything is under screen in food production so to speak. the direction of our Master Butcher “I was born in Minot, North Lanette Holbert and two expert as- Dakota, and come from a farming/ag- sistants -- Sally Dela Torre and Liebe riculture background but really began Slingland. They prepare one delicious to tune into my hand in food produc- steak, one juicy burger, or one mouth tion when my children were small (all watering, marbled roast at a time. We three of them are in college now).That have an on-site store, the Burgundy is what set me on the path to sustain- Boucherie, offering 45 different cuts; able, accountable food production. I we also ship and do home delivery,” wanted to produce and sell something Wendy explains. I would feed my children. I don’t “I have many opinions on the food think it gets any more accountable supply – perhaps too much to get into than that. I call it ‘Specialty’ agricul- for the Quarterly. But it is certainly my ture, and while not an easy road to passion and goal to make grass-fed beef hoe, it has led me to a career that has a reasonable option (in terms of conve- many more rewards and gratifying nience and availability) for consumers experiences (including being a Dame!) and restaurants. To put it on the radar than any of the hardships.”

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 15 2013 Grande Dame Nominees are The Magnificent Seven

t’s Saturday night, October 26, in Aus- DOLORES CAKEBREAD quarters, immense winery production, and tin, Texas, and the celebratory Grande vast vineyards. Dame banquet is underway. Who will Dolores Cakebread didn’t start out in life In 1987-1997, she co-founded, and orga- be introduced as LDEI’s 2013 Grande with any expectation of becoming a vision- nized the first California Vin Expo Ameri- Dame? It’s up to the chapters to decide, but one ary for wine, local ingredients, gardening, can food and 1988 saw her co-founded healthy cooking, youth outreach, and an American Harvest Workshop, a non-profit thing for sure, she will be one of the seven women on international pioneer promoter of how 4-day educational effort held annually in these three pages. She will join the elite company of America ought to show off its food, wine September to increase the appreciation of the 11 LDEI Grande Dames and the earlier 11 Chapter and agriculture products. But that’s what nutritional and aesthetic qualities of Ameri- Grande Dames—chosen before International was happened. can cottage farm producers, wine, viticulture formed. Nominated by a chapter, she is a woman of Her story and cuisine. extraordinary and unusual contributions in the fields starts slow In 1989, Dolores became a founding of food, fine wine and other beverages, nutrition, the with fam- member of the San Francisco Chapter, serv- art of the table or related areas. ily, raising ing as its president in 2003. She co-chaired Although recipients of the Grande Dame award children, the Napa Valley Wine Auction in 2006 that needn’t be a member of LDEI, in 2013 the winner building a raised $8.6 million for the people of Napa business. Valley for children’s health care and needy will be a Dame because all the nominees are. She Dolores adults and regularly sends a reserve of extra could be from the wine business such as Dolores moved to produce to support the Napa Food Bank. Cakebread (San Francisco) or Roberta Morrell Oakland, A founding member of the International (New York). Or a cheese maker, Paula Lambert Calif., from Association of Culinary Professionals and (Dallas). The winner might be Chef Lydia Shire Sheboygan, San Francisco Professional Food Society, (Boston). A food writer could be the next Grande Wis. She Dolores is co-author of The Cakebread Cellars Dame. Three of the nominees are. Pat Mozersky married high school sweetheart Jack Cake- Napa Valley Cookbook: Wine and Recipes to (San Antonio), Joan Nathan (Washington, D.C.), bread. That made her part of the original Celebrate Every Season’s Harvest. and Joan Reardon (Chicago). Cakebread family business, an auto repair Dolores Cakebread spreads it around. A Oh, the choices, the choices! Every woman is shop called Cakebread’s Garage. In 1973 she few years ago, she survived brain surgery co-founded and built a winery and its vine- to smooth out tremors. She didn’t forget already a winner as evidenced by her stellar contribu- yards, starting with the wood and nails. the surgeon. She created the Dolores tions, not only through their work, but in service to The decades reflect Dolores’ vision of the Cakebread Chair for Dr. Starr, Neurologi- the community and the LDEI organization. Who winery needed to affect food-and-wine social cal Service Research for Essential Tremors will be introduced in Austin? No one knows yet. But change. Today, the winery is a small village & Parkinson Disease at the University of I know one thing: I’ll be in Austin to stand and ap- with dining facilities, five kitchens, guest California, San Francisco. plaud her. I hope you will, too.—CiCi Williamson

Les Grandes Dames of Distinction Beginning in 1993, these outstanding culinary leaders Before 1993, local chapters awarded Chapter received the International Grande Dame Award: Grandes Dames awards to these notables:

Ella Brennan, New Orleans restaurateur Carol Brock, founder of Les Dames d’Escoffier Helen Duprey Bullock, culinary historian Julia Child, TV chef, culinary educator and renowned cookbook author 1993 1995 1997 1999 Grace Chu, culinary teacher Marion Anne Willan, Madeline Edna Lewis, cookbook author; “Dean of Julie Dannenbaum, culinary teacher Cunningham, Kamman, author of the Fannie star of 26-part cookbook Southern Mary Frances Kennedy (M.F.K.) Fisher, Farmer Baking PBS program; author; host of Cooks”; chef, culinary philosopher Book; revision of founder of Ecole a PBS television teacher, Nika Hazelton, author the original Fannie de Cuisine La show; direc- cookbook Varenne, Paris author; Caroline Rose Hunt, Dallas hotelier Farmer’s The Boston tor, School Cooking-School Cook and Burgundy, for American recipient of culinary scholar Helen McCully, Book; writer for San France; renowned Chefs, Beringer James Beard Eda Saccone, founder of Les Dames Francisco Chronicle. cooking teacher. Vineyards. “Living Leg- des Amis d’Escoffier, Boston end” award. 16 Les Dames d’Escoffier International first group of cheesemakers that introduced modern Education and volunteering are Paula’s great PAULA LAMBERT artisan cheeses in the US. Inspired by longtime im- passions. A trained teacher, she regularly operates Paula Stephens Lambert is an accomplished and mersion in Italian culture and its culinary traditions, sellout classes abroad and she’s written two books passionate cheesemaker, businesswoman, writer, she founded The Mozzarella Company in Dallas, about cheese The Cheese Lover’s Cookbook and Guide, educator, inno- which now produces more than 30 cheeses and is and Cheese, Glorious Cheese. Paula’s life has been vator, volunteer, celebrating its 31st anniversary this year! dedicated to supporting community, culinary, and and Les Dames In her business, Paula’s creative, entrepreneur- charitable organizations. Paula was treasurer of the representative. ial spirit has been fortified and nourished; she LDEI Board 1995-1998. Throughout her embraced “local” decades before the term was Awards Paula has received include Dallas Historical career, she’s set common. She produces cheeses using ingredients Society, Creative Arts Award (2011); Good Food an example for indigenous to Texas--like hoja santa, epazote, and Award (2012);The Gourmet Retailer 1st Annual young profes- various chiles--which share a love of her home Industry Innovator Award, in recognition of Paula sional woman terroir with consumers throughout the world. Her Lambert’s unique contribution to the gourmet retail throughout cheese innovations represent Texas and the U.S. at industry (2010); International Association of Cu- Texas and the exemplary levels; since 1985, she’s regularly won linary Professionals, Entrepreneur Award of Excel- United States, prestigious awards. In 2012, her cheeses earned five lence (2006); James Beard Foundation, Who’s Who embodying awards at the American Cheese Society Com- of Food and Beverage in America (1998); Saveur the LDEI values of hard work, entrepreneurial in- petition, as well as a Good Food Award in San magazine, Authentic Star of Texas Award (2005); novation, and commitment to standards of culinary Francisco. Paula has been recognized by the James Who’s Who in Food and Wine in Texas(1988). excellence. In the 1980s, Paula was a pioneer in the Beard Foundation, IACP, and Saveur magazine.

Roberta grew up in the wine business and is in ROBERTA MORRELL the marketing and public relations side of her PAT MOZERSKY Roberta Morrell is the highly visible and ener- family company. She tastes and purchases wines President of LDEI in 2005-2006, Pat Mozersky getic CEO and President of Morrell & Company. and Champagnes from Europe and America for was a founding member of the San Antonio Chap- Her parents started her family’s wine business in Morrell’s retail shop, the catalog division, and ter where she served as president from 1996-2001. 1947 in a 600-square-foot store on Lexington the Morrell Wine Bar & Cafe. She started the She also served as LDEI Secretary from 2000- Avenue and 49th Street. Today The Morrell Wine company’s highly successful email program and 2002, First Vice President from 2004-2005 and Group is a writes for and edits the Morrell wine catalogs. Immediate Past President from 2005-2006. Pat $25-million- Roberta’s mother Charlotte Morrell was a was the co-editor dollar company member of the New York Chapter and one with Marcella with four divi- of the first women in the city’s wine trade in Rosene of LDEI’s sions and some 1947. Roberta has been on the board six years cookbook, 95 employees. and has chaired committees, the most notable Cooking with Les It is com- of which was in co-chairing scholarship fund- Dames d’Escoffier prised of the raising events that raised $300,000.00. (Sasquatch Books, retail store, Roberta’s honors include Commanderie de Oct 2008). Morrell & Bordeaux, Bordeaux, France; Le Confrérie de la Pat received Company, Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, New York; Ordre Illustre her degree from located at 1 des Chevaliers de Méduse, La Cadière-d’Azur, the University Rockefeller France; Les Chevaliers de Fourcas-Hosten, Bor- of Manitoba in Plaza, and the deaux, France; and Grande Dame in the Ordre Canada, has adjacent Morrell Wine Bar & Café, probably des Coteaux de Champagne, Reims, France. been married to Dr. David Mozersky for 48 years, the most famous wine bar in Manhattan. The Roberta supports the arts and local chari- and has two sons. Pat founded and directed Ma Morrell Wine Group also owns Morrell Fine ties and has steered Morrell & Company into Maison Cooking School from 1987-1995. In Wine Auctions, the very first wine auction house wine partnerships for charitable events with 1992, Pat began writing the Chefs’ Secrets column in New York State. Morrell’s Vintage Warehouse Carnegie Hall, the Orchestra of St. Luke’s, the for the San Antonio Express-News, helping the is a 60,000-square-foot temperature-and-humid- Film Society of Lincoln Center, Citymeals-on- Taste section win best food section in the country ity-controlled facility, more than half of which is Wheels, the Robin Hood Foundation, the Peter three times. In addition, she has been food editor dedicated to the storage of fine wines belonging Michael Foundation, the Food Bank for New of San Antonio Woman Magazine from 2005 to to individuals and first-class restaurants. York City, and Share Our Strength. present and was a food writer for San Antonio Taste continued on next page

2001 2003 2003 2005 2007 2009 2011 Jerry Anne Abigail Kirsch, Rosemary Marcella Hazan, Alice Waters, Shirley Corriher, Nathalie Dupree, DiVecchio, catering executive; Kowalski , one of the executive chef, biochemist, teacher, teacher; author of senior editor, founder/owner catering foremost founder/owner lecturer; culinary twelve cookbooks food and Abigail Kirsch executive; authorities on Chez Panisse problem-solver for on the American entertaining, Catering founder/owner Italian cuisine; Restaurant; cook- corporations and South; TV host Sunset Magazine; Relationships; The RK Group, author of seven book author; chefs; author of over 300 and books; author, author of four cook- San Antonio; cookbooks, American pioneer of CookWise and shows on PBS, spokesperson, books; recipient of official caterer to including The of farm-to-fork BakeWise; James The Learning television, radio Les Amis d’Escoffier San Antonio Classic Italian cuisine ~ the finest, Beard award winner; Channel and expert in Western Society Leadership Convention Cookbook; freshest food, pro- TV personality. Food Network. foods. Award 2012. Center. lifetime teacher. duced sustainably. SUMMER Quarterly 2013 17 MOZERSKY continued JOAN NATHAN International Film Festival. In 2000, her PBS series magazine from 2010-2011. Co-editor of Cook- “Jewish Cooking in America with Joan Nathan” Joan Nathan has received the highest accolades in ing with Les Dames d’Escoffier, Pat authored The was nominated for the James Beard Award for Best the world of food. In 2001, she was honored for her Hungry Traveler: Italy. National Television Food Show. many accomplish- A student of classic French, Italian and Thai She has made guest appearances on many ments as an induct- cooking for three decades, Pat is an innovative programs, including “The Today Show,” “Good ee into the James and enthusiastic culinarian, developing 135 Morning America,” The Food Network, “Live with Beard Foundation's cooking shows, “What’s Cooking San Antonio,” Regis and Kathie Lee” and “The Martha Stewart “Who's Who of that were televised on EN-TV and PBS in 1996- Show.” Joan is regularly interviewed on National Food and Beverage 97. She also wrote What’s Cooking San Antonio Public Radio (NPR). in America.” Cookbook in conjunction with the show. A charter member in 1981 of the Washington, Her landmark Pat chaired IACP’s annual conference in San DC Chapter, not only has Joan been an unfailingly book, Jewish Cook- Antonio in 1995. In addition to helping several loyal, supportive member of Les Dames, she is also ing in America, won generations of San Antonians improve their a dedicated philanthropist. Joan sits on the board of both the 1994 James cooking skills, Pat’s influence has been felt directors of the nonprofit Martha’s Table. This year Beard Award and throughout the region in other ways. She was a alone, Washington DC’s Sips & Suppers, an event the 1994 IACP/Julia charter member and co-chair of the successful featuring top chefs, sommeliers and artisan food Child Cookbook of the Year Award. In 2005, Joan New World Wine and Food Festival from 2000- producers that she co-chairs with Grande Dame won the James Beard Award for The New American 2009, significantly increasing San Antonio’s food Alice Waters and Chef Jose Andres to fight hunger, Cooking. An earlier work, An American Folklife Cook- profile on the national scene while raising funds raised $400,000 to benefit both Martha's Table and book, received the R.T. French Tastemaker Award for local charities and public television. In 2010, DC Central Kitchen, two nonprofit organizations (precursor to the James Beard Awards) in 1985. She the Leukemia and Lymphoma Association, for dedicated to education, training and hunger relief for is now the author of 11 books. which she raised more than $79,000 for cancer low-income families in the DC metro area. Joan’s culinary talents translated easily to televi- research, named her Woman of the Year. Among numerous awards, Joan has received an sion. Her 1994 documentary, Passover: Traditions Pat is a tireless worker for Les Dames Honorary Doctorate; a Golda Award from the of Freedom, won a Silver Star at the Houston d’Escoffier locally and nationally; her culinary American Jewish Congress (1995); Silver Spoon International Film Festival and the Chris Award legacy is unmatched in the region. Award, Food Arts Magazine; and aforementioned for Religion and Philosophy at the Columbus book awards.

that inform and inspire us to emulate them. both books she shares with the reader Mary Fran- JOAN REARDON Reardon brings to her books credentials as di- ces’s great lesson: “To cook well, you need only the Culinary histo- verse as a doctorate in English literature, a former most elementary kitchen, a mortar and pestle, and rian, cookbook professorial career at Barat College, and an accred- full awareness of your own five senses.” author, and ited culinary certificate. Her latest book, As Always Joan has also contributed essays to Scribner’s biographer Joan Julia: The Letters of Julia Child and Avis DeVoto Encyclopedia of Food and Culture and to Oxford’s Reardon has (2010) has merited widespread critical acclaim in Encyclopedia of American Food and Wine. She wrote mined America’s major publications including Publisher’s Weekly. the “Introduction” for the 50th Anniversary Edi- culinary landscape Oysters: A Culinary Celebration, received critical tion of M.F.K. Fisher’s The Art of Eating, (2004). and focused at- acclaim in 1984, and was revised in 2000. Another She publishes and edits the quarterly newsletter, tention on the bril- book, M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, and Alice Waters: “Panache,” for the Chicago Chapter and is on the liant contributions Celebrating the Pleasures of The Table (1994) was Advisory board of Gastronomica. made by profes- nominated for the IACP Award in 1995. Her honors include Chicago Tribune’s Good sional women of Her book Poet of the Appetites; The Life of M.F.K. Eating Award (2004); First Place, Grand Marnier stature such as Fisher (2004) received the IACP Award for Culinary National Dessert Competition (1990); and M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, Simone Beck, Louisette Writing. Other books include A Stew or a Story Radcliffe Research Grant, Fall (1987); Danforth Bertholle, and Alice Waters. Her many books about (2006)--M.F. K. Fisher’s magazine articles and sto- Associate (1970—1980); Cookbook collection the giants in our industry reveal her excellent writ- ries, and a volume honoring Fisher’s 100th birthday, will be featured in "Traditional Home" magazine ing skills, and they tell fascinating, authentic stories M.F.K. Fisher Among the Pots and Pans (2008). In in May, 2013.

some of the city’s her mark in Boston's most respected restaurants: LYDIA SHIRE finest culinary Harvest, Café Plaza at The Copley Plaza Hotel and In 1992, the James Beard Foundation honored talent, such as Jody Parker's at the Parker House Hotel. In 1982, she Lydia Shire as “America’s Best Chef – Northeast.” Adams, Dante de opened Seasons at the Bostonian Hotel with Jasper That same year, Food & Wine reported that Shire Magistris, Gordon White. The James Beard Foundation awarded Shire was “One of America's Top Ten Chefs.” After Hamersley, the “Who’s Who of Food & Beverage” award in opening Pignoli, a robust Italian bistro in Copley Amanda Lydon 1984. In the fall of 1986, Lydia opened the new Plaza, to rave reviews in 1994, Shire earned the and Susan Regis. Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills, Calif. This prestigious Ivy Award by Restaurants & Institutions Born in Brook- move made her the first female Executive Chef in magazine, and the James Beard Foundation again line, Mass. and the Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Company to acknowledged Shire, this time nominated as “One raised by artist open a luxury property. of America's Top Five Chefs” in 1996. parents, Shire grew Recognized in 2008 by Esquire magazine as one of A powerful creative force, Lydia Shire's passion up learning the the “Best New Restaurants” in America, her sixth for excellence and culinary talent is evident in all importance of quality. At age four, Shire was peeling culinary destination, Scampo, defies tradition with that she does. In her most recent venture, Shire garlic alongside her father. Her first professional posi- its Italian-inspired cuisine. During the summer teams up with fellow culinary great Jasper White tion was slicing paté and opening oysters as the “salad of 2010, Shire opened the internationally eclectic as culinary directors to create Towne Stove and girl” at Boston’s revered Maison Robert. Later Lydia Towne Stove and Spirits in Boston’s Back Bay Spirits, an eclectic and exciting restaurant. became the head chef of this prestigious dining room. neighborhood which was also recognized by Esquire Lydia’s kitchens have been a training ground for Throughout the mid-to late-70s, Shire made magazine as “Best New Restaurant” in 2011.

For more information about the recipients of the Grande Dame award, look on page 218 of your 2013 LDEI Directory or visit www.ldei.org.

18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Smoothies, purees, crushed ice, soups, emulsions, bread crumbs, batters, sauces, salsas Dames Gearing Up and shakes. for a Conference Deep in the Heart of Texas!

By Lori Willis, LDEI 2nd VP of experience in virtually every aspect of the Location, location, location! That’s one of the restaurant industry. In her NRA role, she is a greatest assets the Austin Chapter has tapped voice for millions of people within the industry into when developing what’s shaping up to be and a champion for the consuming public. an extraordinary LDEI annual conference Oct. “We are very excited to have been able to build 24 – 27 at Hyatt Regency Town Lake. The our programs around such a significant central theme, “A Culinary Crossroads,” is a nod to figure as Roz Mallet. She is helping to set the Austin’s close proximity to Mexico, the Gulf of tone for education and information sharing Mexico, University of Texas East and West, and which, of course, is what we all look for at Hill Country wineries. Here’s a sneak peak of Conference,” said Gina. what you can look forward to in Austin. Breakout sessions feature presentations that From sunrise to the beautiful “Violet appeal to the appetite for both food and Crowned” sunset, Texas Dames have been hard information. Confirmed highlights include, at work lassoing the best of the region into a “Chili, Kolache, Cornbread and Collards; A look full itinerary highlighting three key points; in- at Central Texas Foodways; “Crafting a Winning novation, location and state of mind. Thursday Cookbook Proposal”; and “Texas Women Talk night’s optional evening event “Dames Across Texas Wine”; “Effective PR & Marketing on a Texas,” event set in the AT&T Courtyard Budget”; and “Writing a Cookbook—What embodies all three in a BIG way. This unique You Don’t Know Could Cost You.” Plans are in “walk-around” event features Texas Dames plus the works for a food truck event and an urban food and wine tastings from local chefs and farm visit as well as an education opportunity wineries as well as local artisan foods. tied to National Food Day at The Sustainable Conference Co-chair Gina Burchenal Food Center. Other events include an after- describes, “Texas has more LDEI chapters than noon tea pairing by two Austin Dames owned any other state and the ‘Dames Across Texas’ establishments, Amy March’s The Steeping event is a unique opportunity to involve more Room and Tracy Claros’ The Sticky Toffee Texas Dames in the support of the annual Pudding Company. If it needs blending, Conference.” She added, “We hope it to be an Bring your walking shoes and your wallets, la- you need the an annual event with a huge following and, we dies, and prepare to exercise both in a walking/ believe, it’s the perfect format for Texas Dames shopping tour of the South Congress (SOCO) Hemisphere™ Control. to sponsor, showcase, and show-off their best shopping district and 2nd street District! A to the rest of the country.” Always thinking popular “must see” according to travelers who to the future, the Austin Chapter plans for a appreciate the neighborhood where the best of The revolutionary blender percentage of this and this event's proceeds to Austin influences converge into a funky mix of that tackles any job, continues go to the Legacy Award Fund. restaurants and boutiques. Another exciting development was the Finally, the bi-annual Grande Dame Gala will working long after others have confirmation of Texas native Roz Mallet as take place in the grand ballroom of the host burnt out and looks absolutely keynote speaker. Roz balances two roles as hotel and will culminate with the crowning fabulous doing it. chairman of the National Restaurant Associa- of a new Grand Dame. Gina says, “For our tion and president and CEO of her successful honored Dame, we have created a special head- Dallas-based restaurant company, PhaseNext piece we call the ‘violet crown’ that captures the Hospitality. Roz brings to the table a wealth dazzling colors of the Austin sunset.”

This gorgeous photo captures the essence of the typical “violet crown” sunset and is offered courtesy of Dame Beth Vlasich Pav. Learn more at brevilleusa.com

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 19

77223_12_BrevilleHEMIcontrol_v2.indd 1 8/29/12 9:39 AM Two Historic Works Added to Texas Center for Wine & Culinary Arts Benefactor LDEI's Carol Brock Collection in Program Announced By Nichole A. Bendele New York University's Fales Library (San Antonio) “The Texas Center for Wine & Culinary Arts (TC- By Lori Willis (St. Louis) WCA) is dedicated to the awareness, understanding, Just to feel the well-used leather and smell of the and celebration of Texas food, wine, and agriculture,” Leslie Horne dry, tender pages, you sense the impact of their said , co-president of the San Antonio first printings. Today, the passage of time has only Chapter, “through educational programming and increased the significance of the two culinary hands-on experiences.” volumes recently added to LDEI’s Carol Brock Leslie and I serve on the TCWCA board, and at a New Acquisitions Program housed in New York recent chapter board meeting, she gave a presenta- University’s prestigious Fales Library. tion on the new Benefac- According to LDNY President Margaret Hap- tor Program established pel Perry, De Re Coquinaria by Apicus ($5,000) to provide sponsorship and Le Grand Livre de la Cuisine ($2,000) by opportunities for busi- The newest acquisitions have yet to be officially catalogued. nesses and individuals Prosper Montagne, “…acknowledge the inspira- What you see here are 'working photographs' presently avail- tion in founding LDEI and our debt to the who will benefit from the able to us. Given the age and origins of these historic works, center upon its comple- gastronomic heritage of France.” Both now reside they are not lavishly bound by today’s standards. Photos: Fron- with Fales librarian Marvin Taylor who oversees tispieces of Le Grand Livre de la Cuisine by Prosper Montagne tion. The program Nichole Bendele and Leslie Horne. the Apicius and De Re Coquinaria by Apicus. more than 200,000 books, the largest food stud- includes three levels of participation – Platinum Level $10,000, Gold Level ies collection in the United States. Le Grand Livre de la Cuisine was written in 1929 The Acquisitions Program was conceived in $5,000, and Silver Level $2,000. by Prosper Montagne who, along with Careme “The main goal of this center is for Texas to be 2009 by LDNY past president and Fales Library and Escoffier, is considered one of the greats of Rozanne Gold viewed as more of a wine and food destination,” said Committee Chair as a way to French gastronomy. “This gigantic work of 1,479 honor LDEI founder Carol Brock and help the Dave Davenport, TCWCA Chair. He added, “Fred- pages is thoughzt to be Montagne’s masterpiece ericksburg is considered a natural choice because library secure important volumes documenting although it’s for Larousse Gastronomique that he is food resources from production to consump- of its central Texas location--an established visitor most highly acclaimed,” said Gold. “Our volume destination for residents of all four major metro areas tion. At the outset, Gold and LDNY Dames includes Montagne’s artwork and it is signed by Deborah Mintcheff and Gale Steves, worked of the state, and its established wine industry.” the author and inscribed to E. Francis Riggs, of The location of the planned 30,000 square foot with LDEI chapters to raise $50,000 for the the Riggs banking family, increasing its signifi- five-year initiative. TCWCA will be in downtown Fredericksburg on cance and value.” the 200 block of Ufer Street, 3 blocks from historic De Re Coquinaria, although written by the Ro- The LDNY’s Fales Library Committees’ five- man, Apicius, is printed in Lyon, France (1541) Main Street. Architectural firms Overland of San year assignment ends in 2014. In the meantime, Antonio and Studio 8 of Austin will collaborate on and is one of the earliest collections of recipes from LDNY President Perry says, “With slightly more the late Roman Empire of the fourth and fifth the structure and design of the center. than $6,000 remaining in the fund, we hope Our current development timeline calls for a grand centuries. “This author brought together one of the to make one or two, significant purchases to first, if not the first, cookbooks for ‘in the kitchen’ opening in October of 2014; however, the opening complete the society’s contribution to one of the date is very dependent on fund raising efforts. For use,” said Gold. (The book is written in Latin, but nation’s great food studies libraries in the name of the library also has an English translation.) more information, please visit www.texascenterfor- our most illustrious member, Carol Brock.” wineandculinaryarts.com.

20 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Beverly Gruber as the Unsinkable Molly Brown and Bill Gruber as Jack Dawson (steerage). Kristina Arreola. Oysters on the Half Shell. From left toright: Marni Buchanan, Kaley Araucto, Doug Bunn, Geena Henry, Mady Proctor, Amelia Erwin, Kristina Arreola. Photos by Bill Gruber.

Renton Graduating Seniors Present “LD ast inner on the Titanic”

R.M.S TITANIC | April 14, 1912 By Nicole Aloni (Seattle) It was “sink or swim” for the Senior Class Culinary Graduates at Renton Technical College (RTC). Led by Seattle Dames’ Endowed Scholarship recipient Marni Bu- chanan, the spring 2013 graduating class decided on an ambitious theme for their final exam: recreating the last meal served to First Class passengers on the Titanic. Beverly Gruber and Nicole Aloni, who represented the Seattle Chapter, at- tended the dinner. “Because our chapter has an endowed scholarship at RTC,” said Beverly,” we take an active role with the school in a variety of ways: attend culinary program functions; support fundraising; and mentor our scholarship recipients. “We have a $50,000 Endowed Culinary Scholarship at Renton that we established in 2008. For our scholarship recipients, we have an active mentoring program at all four culinary schools where we have endowments. Scholars are paired with a Dame with expertise/experience in the scholar's area of interest. Scholars are also invited to all Seattle Chapter meetings open to non-members,” explained Beverly. Seattle’s Endowed Scholarship program encompasses six endowments in Washington colleges (four culinary and two wine). Endowments range from $50,000 per endow- ment to over $100,000. Most are in the Seattle area or at Washington State Univ. Renton is 16 miles southeast of Seattle in Renton, Wash. Last Dinner on the Titanic The graduating seniors did a wonderful job. Beautifully menus printed the 10 ex- travagant courses we were to enjoy, and live harp music played in the dining room just as it did on the Titanic. Many guests dressed in period costume to add flavor to the event--notably Beverly and Nicole who served as taste judges along with Chef Wayne Ludvigsen of Charlie’s Produce, and Beverly’s husband (and official photographer) Bill Gruber. In 1912, passengers paid dearly for the pleasures and luxuries included in a first class trans-Atlantic passage on a ship like the Titanic. Their tickets cost more than eight times those in second class (about $63,000 per person in today’s dollars). For this, they received an overwhelming array of elegant (mostly French) dishes at every meal. The Renton dinner was only $30. The team effort to serve this demanding and sophisticated menu was coordinated by Chef John Fisher, head of the Renton Culinary Department. He oversaw the busy kitchen in which an individual student took the lead on the preparation of each course with other students doing the sous work. It definitely “takes a village” to produce a meal such as this. We started with shrimp canapés and oysters on the half shell. We then moved through a choice of soups, poached salmon with mousseline sauce, Filet Mignon Lilli with vegetable marrow farci, a duck galantine, and a Punch Romaine palate cleanser. Fortunately, each of the courses was presented as a very small portion, which was not the case in 1912. How did they do it? The meal concluded with delicate roast quail on watercress, a perfectly prepared asparagus salad, an unctuous wedge of paté de foie gras on toast, and delicate choco- late éclairs. Wshington Wines were paired with the menu throughout by Chris Jewitt of Young’s Market, wine distributors. The 2013 Renton Culinary graduates acquitted themselves in a most worthy fashion and will graduate with honors. Putting the finishing touches onpaté de foie gras on toast. Chef John Fisher and Seattle Chapter scholarship recipient Marni Buchanan. Renton College dining room. Shrimp canapés. Seattle Dames Nicole Aloni and Beverly Gruber.

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 21 The Sacred Foods of India California Figs According to Monica, the Jagan- Simply Beautiful | Simply Delicious By Amy Riolo, GCI Chair nath Temple in Puri, is said to have (Washington, D.C.) the largest kitchen in India with over 700 stoves! They prepare sacred foods California dried figs are available year On Sunday, March 3, Monica Bhide called the Chappan Bhog--56 dishes round, while fresh figs are available and Chef Sudhir Seth of Passage to a day--all prepared without onions or India restaurant led us through the garlic which are forbidden by a reli- mid-May through December. temples, mosques, and gurudwaras of gion called Jainism. India by way of its sacred foods. The Even though Muslims make up only sold-out luncheon of 16 dishes illustrat- 10% of India's total population, the ed the beliefs of Hinduism, Judaism, amount is still huge because India is so Jainism, Sikhism, Christianity, Islam, populous. Monica discussed Seviyan, Bahai, and Buddhism. a sweet vermicelli dish sweetened with Monica gave a wonderful PowerPoint dates and drizzled with milk that is lecture about how food plays an integral served after the Eid al Fitr holiday. role in all of India's numerous religions Despite the differences in India's and cultures. In the Hindu faith, for religions, spiritual pilgrimage, cooking example, cooks aren't allowed to taste for the poor, charity, and a yearning food to check if it is seasoned properly for enlightenment unite them. It was because the first taste is set aside for both heartwarming and inspiring to be God. It was interesting to learn that transported to the enchanted land where each of the gods in Hinduism represent ancient rites are still a part of daily life. manifestations of the Divine.

GLOBAL CULINARY post card Chef Sudhir Seth, Amy Riolo, and Monica Bhide.

San Francisco Chapter Hosts LDEI Reception By Jerry Anne from Martine Saunier's collec- Di Vecchio tion: Chateau des Tours White Rhone, Chateau des Tours Vac- Waldorf Salad with A bustling assembly of Dames, California Figs queyras, and Lorenzo Mercurey who came from all corners to Blanc. attend the IACP conference Many San Francisco Dames underway in San Francisco, were on hand to meet and greet worked their way through a Dames from Atlanta, Austin, commute day crowd on Mon- Boston, British Columbia, day afternoon, April 8, in our Charleston, Chicago, Dal- city's magnificent foodscape, las, Hawaii, Houston, Kansas The Ferry Building, to enjoy a City, Los Angeles/Orange wine reception hosted in their County, Miami, Minneapolis/ honor by the San Francisco Excellent source of Dietary Fiber Gig Owen (San Francisco) shows off St. Paul, Monterey Bay, New chapter of LDEI. the Sol del Limari gift bag provided by York, Northeast, Palm Springs, Fat, Cholesterol and Sodium Free While commuters raced to Lisa Klinck-Shea for visiting Dames Philadelphia, Phoenix, San catch their ferries, Dames at the Ferry Plaza Wine Merchant reception. Diego, Seattle, St. Louis, and For delicious recipes and more information visit: gathered in the Ferry Plaza Washington D.C. We didn't Wine Merchant, owned by www.californiafigs.com make a guest list, and as Dames Debbie Zachareas. Here we (from their shops in the Ferry were popping here and there nibbled hors d'oeuvres provided Building), and Janet Griggs' to attend competing events, by Cowgirl Creamery partners, Find us on Facebook Taste Catering. our apologies for any chapter Sue Conley and Peggy Smith Wines served were imports misrepresentations.

22 Les Dames d’Escoffier International It takes Sysco. Compiled by Janet Burgess (San Diego)

& Cinnamon Spiced Duck Breast, Moroccan Spiced Loin of Lamb, Mache A tlANTA & Peppercress Salad with Fourme d’Ambert, Valrhona Chocolate-Raspberry Dana Dabruzzi, Vice President Dome and an assortment of Fruit Mignardises prepared by chocolatier Atlanta Dames and guests were treated and Boston President Lee Napoli. Kudos to Co-Chairs Judy Mattera and to a much loved “Dinner and Movie” Leslie Lamb and their committee for planning every facet of this masterful event on March 19, an annual event event to be recorded for chapter posterity. hosted by Chef Cathy Conway, founder and owner of Avalon Catering. The event CHICAGO features films produced by the Southern Shannon Kinsella and Sharon Foodways Alliance followed by a spectacu- lar meal prepared by Chef Conway and Olson her team. This year’s films were Carolina On a dreary Chicago night, about Grist, an exploration of rice cultivation 20 Dames gathered at Urban Union, a and the rice kitchen, and Phat Tai, a film fairly new restaurant in the Little Italy tracing the path of Vietnamese fishermen section for a house-made charcuterie from Indonesia to the Gulf of Mississippi. tasting. Their executive chef explained Chef Cathy captured the essence of both the flavors of seafood mousseline with films in her meal and expertly prepared dishes with flavors from the Caro- tarragon and lemon; pig paté with lina Coast and Indonesia. Laurie Smith of Bold American Catering and Calabrian chilies; and duck breast Events provided the lovely table décor and Dana Dabruzzi of Wits’ End prosciutto--the whole duck is used and Productions created petit favors of Asian candies. seasoned with juniper and bay. Other items include salmon rilletes. Chef Josh created a traditional version of a Boston brandade with olive oil and garlic confit Lucille Saccone Giovino and then made his favorite twist on the Fifty-two Dames experienced the nirvana of great food and company at dish by creating brandade fritters. There the 52nd Annual Escoffier Dinner at Chiara Bistro. Sixteen accomplished, was also great wine pairings: Domaine enthusiastic and lively women were inducted during the reception hour. We Remizieres, Syrah, Vin de Pays de were privileged to have LDEI President Mary Ellen Griffin as an honored la Drowe, an Enzo Marcella-Rosso guest. In her opening remarks she encouraged us to continue using our Piceno-Colle Malvano and a Cotes-du- talents to nurture LDEI, to recommend worthy candidates for the Legacy Rhone 2006-Tardieu Laurent. Award, and to attend the 2013 LDEI Conference in Austin. Judith Dunbar Hines orchestrated Karen Levin, Judith Hines, book club leader Executive Chef Steve and his wife Michelle LaCount were congratulated an evening of White Truffles in Winter, and Shannon Kinsella at Chez Moi. for the eight sumptuously prepared courses paired with extraordinary wines. and Chef Dominique Tougne synchro- Leslie Lamb of Gordons Fine Wines described the wines starting with nized the discussion with a series of tast- Jennifer Lamplough, standing, Catherine Koelling, Debbie Rivera, owner of Ambrosia her Pouilly Fuisse, Marie Antoinette, JJ Vincent 2011, and finishing with ings that were significant in this engaging Patisserie, Priscilla Cretier and Patty Erd at a memorable Rosa Regale, Brachetto d’Acqui, Banfi, 2011. New member work of historical fiction. The evening Chez Moi. Kristen LaCount of The Country Club and Steel and Rye Restaurant began with beautifully simple bread and whetted appetites with a description of each course: Cauliflower Velouté, butter. Scallops offered a taste of the sea Pink Peppercorn-crusted Halibut Filet, Blood Orange Granita, Star Anise and evoked discussion of the connection between foods and their origin. Unique preparation of eggs and aligot were served to support discussions of the intimacy cooking inspired between Escoffier and his wife Delphine at the beginning of their life together and the infirmities of their final days together. The personality of Escoffier portrayed in the book was that of a passionate and deeply flawed man of the times in which he lived, and there was no lack of discussion on the emotions evoked by this novel. Cleveland Shara Bohach Cleveland Dames celebrated the old and new in May. On May 6, we had a membership drive and potluck dinner at a member’s home. Each member brought a dish to share and at least one potential new member as their guest. On May 16, we held our annual fundraiser to benefit the Green Tables Seated: Ana Costa, Honorary Board Member Initiative. This year’s theme is “Dishing with Dames of the West Side 1st row: Maryanne Muller, Julie Ann Larocque, Reta Martin, Isabel Chesak, Gloria Cabral, Judith Akerman, Mary Ellen Griffin—President LDEI, Lucille Giovino-Lifetime Board Member. 2nd row: Market” and will celebrate the women who helped make the market the Kristen LaCount, Juliana Kolson Lyman, Hannah Matthews, Lynn Higgins, Anastasia Nickerson, Ellen dynamic culinary treasure of Cleveland that it is. Guests heard stories of the Callaway, Michelle da Silva, Hanna Strowman, Brandy Rand, Lee Napoli, President, LDEI Boston. Not butchers, bakers and sauerkraut makers as told by lady vendors in a lively pictured: Cynthia Gold. Photo by Jeremy Baldwin

24 Les Dames d’Escoffier International discussion moderated by Marilou Suszko, co-author of Cleveland’s West Side Market: 100 Years and Still Cooking. New York Delightful small dishes featuring foods and artisan products from women- Margaret Happel Perry owned stands at the Market, a unique LDEI cocktail created especially for A reluctant spring did not deter our chapter from celebrating the energies of the event, tours of the Market Garden Brew House, a book signing with Dames and their dedication to featuring the accomplishments of their multi- Suszko and a special raffle with culinary-themed prizes rounded out the faceted colleagues. In February, Joanna Preuss’s expertise shone through at a evening. Several Cleveland Dames have stands at the West Side Market, Moroccan dinner, and Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree of Charleston came which recently made news when it caught fire and closed for several weeks. to town to tell us of her new book, Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking, Fortunately, the historic landmark is back in operation and better than ever. co-authored with Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta). March brought Sandy Hu of San Francisco who introduced the accomplished Irish TV chef, Clodagh HOUSTON McKenna—by courtesy of our society’s loyal sponsor, Kerrygold—at a time Alyce Eyster when all of New York is Irish. Houston Dames engaged A week later, thanks to Marsha Palanci, LDEI’s Legacy Award Scholarship in two fun and informative Award took center stage. Winner Kubee Kassaye and her mother cooked meetings recently, thanks to the a traditional Ethiopian Easter feast, our first to have a daughter-mother efforts of their dedicated pro- team as chefs. We welcomed Toria Emas (Chicago), a member of the LDEI gram committee. One Monday Legacy Committee. evening in February, Dames In April, a special collection at Fales Library was dedicated to Dr. Marion gathered in the bar at Monica Nestle of NYU. Fales is part of the larger Elmer Bobst Library at NYU and Pope’s new Sparrow Bar + is home to the new Marion Nestle Food Studies Collection. Because of the Cookshop. Members and guests prestige of both Marion and Carol Brock, Fales now houses two scholarly indulged in wine, delicious collections of food resource books. For LDEI member researchers of serious appetizers, and networking. We purpose, we are hoping to arrange library privileges in the near future. also toured the space reserved for cooking classes and private PALM SPRINGS events. Later, Pope spoke to the Francine Robertshaw group about how her concept We held our first Global Initiative event, a World Cuisine Dine Out, in came to fruition. February when some 30 Dames and their guests had a Pan-Asian Experience In March the Chapter enjoyed at Wang’s in the Desert, Palm Springs. Executive Chef Carlos Vizaga created an evening of Vietnamese a three-course family style dinner and Lisa Wherry, wine expert for the cooking and culture with chef Estates Group, paired two wines for the courses, a Del Alto Amo Rioja and and cookbook author Nich- Rioja Blanco. The menu included Vietnamese Vegetable Wraps and classic Chara Gafford ole Routhier. Chinese Springs Rolls, Korean Spare Ribs, Chicken Pad Thai, Mongolian hosted the event at her fabulous Beef, Mandarin Pork and Walnut Shrimp. new space, the well-equipped Sarah Finster, Alyce Eyster, Judith Boykin, Janice Hays- The fundraising event was coordinated by Pamela Bieri with Wang’s Desiree Cavada, Nicole Routhier, Barbara Cook, Chara Gifford. cooking school, Urban Chef. Landry, for an all-inclusive prix fixe that netted the chapter several hundred Routhier is the author of several Front Row: Diane Adams and Julie Hettiger at Urban Chef. Chef Monica Pope, Food Photographer Jeff Fantich, Angie dollars. The chapter plans more Dine Outs that celebrate different cuisines as acclaimed books, The Food of Din and LDEI President Carla Buerkle at Sparrow Bar& fundraising events for the Chapter’s scholarships and Green Tables Initiative Vietnam, Cooking Under Wraps, Cookshop. projects. The Best of Nicole Routhier and For the fourth year the chapter has lent many hands to cook, chop, pour, Nicole Routhier’s Fruit Cookbook, wipe up and greet during the three-day Wine and Food Festival Palm Desert, and her work has been featured in the Houston Chronicle, The New York March 22-23. Several thousand food and wine aficionados attend to meet Times and Cooks Illustrated. celebrity chefs and top winemakers. The Chapter is a beneficiary of the Dames did not leave hungry. The menu started with Beef Grilled in Grape event, along with Friends of the James Beard Foundation and the Endowed Leaves, Fresh Spring Rolls with Chicken and Pineapple, and Asparagus Scholarship Fund for the Culinary Institute of America. and Crabmeat Soup. The entrée was Pan Seared Red Snapper Fillet with On April 8 we hosted our 14th annual fundraiser, “L’Affaire Francaise” at Tamarind and Ginger Sauce with Grapefruit and Fresh Herbs in a Peanut Wally’s Desert Turtle in Rancho Mirage. The extensive French menu was Vinaigrette. Banana in Coconut Milk with Tapioca Pearls and Sesame Cook- teamed with wines from France’s Languedoc region. A delightful time was ies brought the meal to a sweet close. All dishes were from Routhier’s cook- books. After dinner Routhier booted up her laptop and an exciting photo had by all attendees. tour and heartfelt discussion of the food, culture and history of Vietnam ensued. Monterey Bay Michele Axley Culinary icon Mary Chamberlin, Founder and President, Monterey Bay Chapter, will be honored on August 25 by the chapter and The American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF) with a ceremonial dinner/auc- Dinner at Wangs, Holly Hosner and Lisa Wherry. L’Affaire Francaise photo 1, The Executive Committee tion at The Beach and Tennis Club, Pebble Beach, CA. of LDEI-Palm Springs, Nancy Cohee, Treasurer, Gail Nottberg, President, Francine Robertshaw, Secretary Highlights of her illustrious career include: event and Lisa Wherry, Vice President at L’Affaire Francaise. Jeff Hocker, producer of the Palm Springs Desert organizer/fundraiser for culinary scholarships and chari- Food & Wine Festival presents Dame Lisa Wherry with a $1,000 check to the Chapter for their volun- table organizations; member James Beard Foundation; teer work at the event. Photos by Pam Bieri. National Chair, AIWE; self-published cookbook, The Traveling Soup Pot; US agent for Michel Escoffier and PHILADELPHIA the Auguste Escoffier Foundation, and President/Chair Lari Robling AIWF Monterey Bay Chapter. On April 14 Green Tables joined forces with Slow Food to raffle goods and All Dames and their guests are invited to celebrate Mary, services to benefit LDEI scholarships. The raffle was part of the Philly Farm her career and many contributions as one of our culinary Fest, promoting the region’s sustainable agriculture. luminaries. For information, contact: Michele Axley at micheleaxley@icloud. The May 4 “Cuisine Culture and Community” was a global celebration com or Rachel Mueller at [email protected]. of women and food that offered a full day of information, networking, and

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 25 delicious tasting to appealing to a wide range of attendees at The Restaurant and harvest cycle were demonstrated along with tasting demos. The solar School. The day began with keynote speaker Grande Dame Nathalie Du- cooking area showed the wide range of ways you can cook the sun from pree (Charleston); then participants chose from hands-on classes, moder- an insulated box cooker, campaign sign oven, a window shade oven, and a ated panels, and cooking demonstrations. parabolic cooker that go up to 800 degrees. Visiting Dames who presented include Middle Eastern cuisine expert, The event, in the tradition of community harvest festivals, celebrated our Amy Riolo (Washington, D.C.), Ida Rodriguez (Los Angeles) of Melissa’s connection to locally grown, locally sourced and locally prepared foods in Produce, and Amy Hoopes from Wente Vineyards. This is the second bien- the heart of downtown Phoenix and the Arts District. nual symposium; it alternates years with the Washington, D.C. Chapter’s Symposium “Celebrating FOOD!” More information is on our Facebook page, “Cuisine, Culture and Community, A Global Celebration of Women S an ANTONIO in Food.” Blanca Aldaco The night prior to the Symposium, saw the Philadelphia Dames rooting Our members are encouraged to for their two members nominated for James Beard Media Awards. Aliza attend our BOD meetings and bring Green was nominated for an article appearing in the Washington Post and a guest for the dinner portion. Our Lari Robling for radio pieces airing on WHYY FM. last two meetings have included an Plans are in the works for a summer event at The Philadelphia Free educational component followed by Library to showcase the region’s abundance of local foods. This is part of the interesting dinners. library’s interest in using food to promote health and literacy. The February meeting was held at And, just for fun, Susannah Foo is hosting our summer poolside potluck. Jerusalem Grill with special guest Rob Holliday, an expert bee keeper who kept our undivided attention as he had us taste local honey as he shared bee-keeping stories. The book selected for our “Word of Mouth” program, was appropriately titled A Day of Honey. The March meeting was just as entertaining with a Korean theme followed by a multi-course dinner. The second highlight of the evening was to learn to “how to aspirate a bug.” These Dames networking events simultane- ously support the Global Culinary Initiative by attending local ethnic restaurants. Our VP of programs, Maureen Weissman, is busy keeping Nathalie Dupree gives keynote talk our chapter in high spirit and provides Linda Triesch aspirating a bug at The Restaurant School at Walnut Bee Keeper Rob Holliday Hill College. opportunities for great networking. Aliza Green, Symposium Chair 2013; Nathalie Dupree; and Philadelphia Chapter President Kathy Gold. Photos by CiCi Williamson. San Diego Caron Golden We launched a new website, www. ldeisandiego.org that is linked to Face- Phoenix book. It makes available information Eileen Spitalny about the chapter, upcoming events, Inspired from a Feast on the Bridge coverage of recent events, organiza- in London, Eileen Spitalny as an tions we support philanthropically, Advisory Board member of the ASU members’ businesses, and scholar- Art Museum was on the planning ship opportunities. The site also has committee for “Feast on the Street in a “members only” section containing Phoenix.” This free public event was a bylaws, standing rules, and board community project initiated by the Art meeting minutes. Museum, Roosevelt Row CDS and art- In February, a screening was held of ists Clare Patey and Matthew Moore. Chicks in the City, winner of the 2012 Feast on the Street brought people to- San Diego State University Award for gether around a half-mile long dining Marie Kelley Food Styling Excellence in Documentary Produc- table in downtown Phoenix in celebra- Rebecca Tolin and farmers tion. This 10-minute documentary tion of food and art in the desert. features urban chicken farmers in The Inaugural Feast was a GIANT San Diego and how they’re reclaiming food production. The screening was success! Dames helped volunteer and followed by a Q & A session led by a panel of urban farmers featured in the the Chapter helped fund the Native film and City Nursery owner Bill Tall. Flavors and Solar Cooking. Attendees In March the chapter invited the public to attend a food styling and were able to gain a new respect and photography class at the studio of food photographer Michael Balderas. love for some very special Arizona Food stylist Marie Kelley and Balderas provided attendees with a wealth of beans. With the help of Valley Perma- information about tools, techniques and tricks of the trade. Flor Franco’s culture Alliance, people learned about catering company, Indulge Catering, provided refreshments. the benefits of native mesquite trees We donated $1,000 to The Art Institute of California, San Diego EDMC and their beans by tasting, feeling and Educational Scholarship Fund. The Institute hosted the Chapter at a mag- grinding their own flour. This sweet, nificent post-holiday dinner several months ago. naturally gluten free “flour” is fantastic Janet Burgess reports, “The San Diego Chapter turned a decade old in for baking, cooking and for bever- June. Founders include Carole Bloom, Jennifer Brennan, Janet Burgess, ages, like tea and coffee. The milling Photo: Feast Bowl. Marie Kelley, Judi Strada, Karen Straus and Karen Ward.”

26 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Seattle Braiden Rex-Johnson In January, the Chapter met at POMBAR, part of Pomegranate Bistro in Redmond for “Chefs in the Bar,” presented by Seattle chef, restaurateur, caterer, and award-winning cookbook author Lisa Dupar. Dupar, who crafts cocktails with a focus on seasonal ingredients, said she “set the bar high” when she opened POMBAR in January 2012. She likened creating cocktails to creating a dish in the kitchen, and stressed Danielle Custer serves tomato soup the importance of and grilled-cheese sandwiches from her Monte Cristo Mobile Melts truck. experimentation and Dames Amy Muzyka-McGuire, (left), inspiration, all with Braiden Rex-Johnson (middle) and a goal of creating a Martha Marino (right) toast the balanced and flavorful evening with guests Lorelle Del Matto (second from left) and Judith Dern at end product. Seattle Dames Lisa Dupar’s POMBAR. Dupar makes her Seattle Dame Kay Simon (center) was own bitters, infused spirits, fresh juices, and grenadine during pome- joined by Washington State University granate season. Thirty Dames and guests enjoyed sampling her “But- Viticulture & Enology scholars Lora Morgan (left) and Kristen Ziegler. ternut Breeze,” “Sparkling Yuzu Lemonade,” “Green with Envy,” and Dame Lisa Dupar and her bartender, “Thyme Out,” cocktails paired with crispy calamari, lamb sliders, Ryan Slimak. Photos by Katherine and truffle-parmesan fries. Kehrli. Forty-five Dames and guests enjoyed a presentation by renowned author, food stylist, and culinary educator Delores Custer during our February meeting. The program—“Putting Your Best Plate Forward: Photos That Flatter Your Food”—was held at Iridio Studios, a full-service photography company with offices in Seattle and Portland. Custer, who spent 30 years food styling for advertising, magazines, books, television and film, is the author of Food Styling: The Art of Preparing Food for the Camera. She is also the mother of Danielle Custer, a.k.a. “Grilled Cheese Girl.” Dinner was catered by Danielle’s Monte Cristo Mobile Melts truck, which tempted guests with “The Full Monte Cristo” signature sandwiches, tomato-soup shots, and savory shortbread cookie and cocoa for dessert. Washington DC Eileen Dykes, Program Vice President Some have Lisa Kartzman (New York), Director, Public Relations, of LDEI Partner Roland Food, did a wonderful talk on Medi- terranean food ingredients April 30 at Lebanese Taverna in SUSTAINABILITY Bethesda, Md., owned by Gladys Abi-Najm. Lisa has dedi- cated her life to quality and innovative foods through 35 written into their years as she learned from the ground up the art of wholesale manufacturing, retail sales, and product distribution. brochures. WE have Attendees tasted various Roland products and enjoyed a bountiful, family-style Lebanese dinner centered on vegan main dish Fatteh bel it written into Bathenjan (an eggplant and chickpea dish) and Braised Chicken with Arti- our STATE choke. A bonus: everyone took home a goody bag of Roland products to try CONSTITUTION. at home. A week later, Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree spoke on “The Pleasures of the Southern Table” at Vidalia restaurant in Washington. With her was Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta), co-author of Eileen Dykes, Program Vice President, Gladys Abi-Najm, and Lisa Kartzman. Mastering the Art of Southern Cooking. Joe Yonan, Food Editor, The Washington Post; Bonnie Benwick, Deputy Food Everyone was so happy that Nathalie Editor; Nathalie Dupree, Cynthia Graubart, Jeff Buben, and Judy Rusignuolo, and Cynthia had won the James Beard DC Chapter President. Photo by Jill Collins. Award for best American cookbook two nights earlier. Chef/Owner Jeff Buben spoke to attend- ees, explaining the menu that included Pimiento Cheese Gougeres, Roasted Tomato Zucchini Tart, Crawfish Hush Puppies, Shrimp n’ Grits with Anson Mills Grits and Spring Peas, Sweet Tea Brined Chicken Roulade with Foie Gras Mousseline, and Corn and Okra Succotash with Truffle To learn more go to Butter. Several recipes were from the book including a smashing dessert of Buttermilk Pie with wildalaskaflavor.com Strawberry Rhubarb Sorbet made by Bev Bates, Vidalia’s pastry chef.

SUMMER Quarterly 2013 27 program benefit: 'Q'uisine of Hearts-2012/2013 and Chaired the ACF culinary scholarship benefit 'Christmas at The Fairmont Orchid-2012. Lori Wong experienced the "end of an era" when Byron's Drive In, the last of her family's thirteen food establishments, closed on February 28th. Customers lined up to get a final taste of Byron's local-style comfort food: hamburgers made with Hawaii-raised beef, old-fashioned milkshakes and Lori Wong shrimp burgers. Lori looks forward to teaching and consultation work.

NEW YORK Marion Nestle, Paulette Goddard Professor of Nutrition, Food Studies and Public Health at NYU, had a special Fales Library collection dedicated to her -- The Marion Nestle Food Studies Collection. The collection is located Compiled by within the larger Elmer Bobst Library. Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) Elizabeth Falkner was named as the newest member of Holland America’s prestigious Culinary Council. Falkner’s focus will be to enhance appetiz- ers and main courses for the cruise line’s menus in addition to offering her ATLANTA guidance to the line’s culinary program. Kelly Hornbuckle, the Georgia Restaurant Association, was the Chair of Laura Maniec, Master Sommelier and owner of Corkbuzz Wine Studio, the 2013 Atlanta Hunger Walk/Run, an important was featured in a 40 under 40 profile, in Crain’s New York Business. Community Food Bank fundraiser. A dedicated group Jody Eddy, co-author of Come In, We’re Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals of Atlanta Dames joined Kelly by participating in the at the World’s Best Restaurants, and Maricel Presilla, Gran Cocina Latina, event. received 2013 James Beard Award Nominations. Virginia Willis will be the featured chef at Busch Mary Cleaver's Chelsea Market restaurant, The Green Table, celebrated Gardens for their Culinary Festival in Williamsburg its 10th anniversary. Mary generously catered LDNY's annual scholarship June 1, 2, 15, and 16. Busch Gardens Restaurants will reception last summer. also feature Virginia's signature Bon Appétit Y’all-style dishes. Lynn Fredericks, FamilyCook Productions, has a new book: Get Your Virginia Willis Family Eating Right! A 30-Day Plan to Teach Your Children Healthy Eating BOSTON/NORTHEAST CHAPTER photo by Angie Mosier for Life. The guide, co-written with FamilyCook's dietitian, is designed for busy families and teaches how to vary recipes by using seasonal local Lisa Ekus was appointed to the new Barnard Entrepre- produce. neurial Network committee and remains an active member of the Springfield MA Women’s President’s Organization. She led an IACP teleforum in April Sarabeth Levine, founder of popular brunch spot Sarabeth’s, was inter- on the State of Book Agenting. The Lisa Ekus Group just celebrated their 31st viewed by New York Daily News restaurant critic Michael Kaminer about year in business. her largest restaurant to date. Maria Speck, author of the award-winning Ancient Roberta Morrell, Morrell & Company Wine and Spirits Merchants, is one Grains for Modern Meals, signed a new “ancient grains” of six extraordinary women of wine profiled in Wine Enthusiast. book contract with Ten Speed Press. Her first cook- Ursula Massoud, Paumanok Vineyards, 2010 Assemblage wine was “most book won the Julia Child and Gourmand Awards; the accomplished red” of forty two East End wines sampled by Howard G. New York Times and Washington Post named it one of Goldberg, for a New York Times article. the top cookbooks of the year. JoAnne Cloughly co-chaired (with Chef Keith Buerker) the State Univer- CLEVELAND sity of New York at Cobleskill’s Culinary Extravaganza. The event benefited scholarships for culinary and hospitality students in the college’s under- Marilou Suszko celebrated the release of her third graduate program and raised $10,000. The chef station event was attended book, Cleveland's West Side Market: 100 Years & Still by 240 guests including Carol Brock. Cooking (University of Akron Press, November 2012). Marilou Suszko The launch coincided with the 100 year anniversary PHILADELPHIA of one of the longest operating public markets in the United States. Co-authored with Laura Taxel, the book Amy Edelman, chef/owner Night Kitchen Bakery chronicles the history, architecture, family histories, and and Café, prepared a Spring brunch at the James the food culture of this notable historic landmark. Beard House, New York City. She was joined in the kitchen by her husband John Millard and HAWAII Pastry Chef Jennifer Low. The menu was designed to highlight the bakery’s signature items including Nancy Edney, along with her husband and partner, sticky buns and salted caramel bars, as well as fresh John Edney, owners of Tropical Dreams Ice Cream, Nancy Edney seasonal ingredients. Amy Edelman won the 2013 U.S. Small Business Administration award for the County of Hawaii Small Business Person SAN ANTONIO of the Year. In the last three years, revenues have increased an average of 29% each, expanding through Rosemary Kowalski, catering legend and Grande strategic acquisitions, licensing and new distribution Dame, is the inspiration and driving force for a new networks. culinary arts training program under the auspices of SA Youth. The nonprofit organization, which Patti Kimball was awarded the Chef of the Year and focuses its efforts on young people at risk, is adding Member of the Year (January 2013) by the American a culinary arts program -- Rosemary's Kitchen. Culinary Federation Kona Kohala Chef’s Association. Rosemary was recently awarded San Antonio Les Patti co-chaired the ACF Chef and Child nutrition Patti Kimball Dames d’Escoffier Emeritus status in recognition of Rosemary Kowalski her immense support of the chapter. 28 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Diana Barrios Trevino, chef, television personality and a humanitarian organization she helped found in 1995. PTVN searches for cookbook author, opened Viola’s Ventanas. The restau- unexploded ordnance in Quang Tri Province, Vietnam, and educates local rant is located in a spacious and venerable hacienda- citizens. The delegation watched the safe demolition of a 500-pound cluster style building and is the latest addition to the Barrios bomb and attended groundbreaking ceremonies for the Grace Kindergarten. family restaurants. Kay Simon, winemaker and co-owner of Chinook Wines, has just completed her 30th harvest. A cornerstone of the Prosser wine industry, Chinook produc- SAN DIEGO es limited amounts of highly acclaimed dry wines crafted from Yakima Valley Janet Burgess's company, 4littleCOOKS Hands on grapes. The wines showcase true varietal character and are high quality, food Cooking School, is sponsoring a Healthy Snack youth Diana Barrios Trevino friendly, and reasonably priced. contest at the San Diego County Fair this summer. In addition, she will be a judge at the Fair and conduct WASHINGTON, D.C. Healthy Cooking For Children culinary demonstra- Bonnie S. Benwick, Deputy Editor, The Washington tions. Winners will receive a copy of her cookbook for Post Food section, authored The Washington Post Cook- children, CHOP, COOK, MUNCH! book (Time Capsule Press), the first from the award- Candy Wallace, Founder/Executive Director of the winning Food section. It’s a collection of more than American Personal & Private Chef Association, was 150 readers’ favorite recipes from the last 50 years—the invited to join the International Advisory Commit- oldest, from 1956. The cookbook will be featured at tee of Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts. Also the National Book Festival on the Mall in September. serving are Mary Chamberlin (Monterey Bay), Chef Janet Burgess www.washingtonpost.com/cookbook Jeremiah Tower, and Michel Escoffier, great grandson Bonnie S. Benwick Nora Pouillon, chef/owner Restaurant Nora, is proud of Auguste Escoffier. to announce that the restaurant has been recognized by the United States Healthful Food Council for its SAN FRANCISCO Responsible Epicurean and Agricultural Leadership Linda Lau Anusasananan’s book, The Hakka Cook- (REAL). REAL Certification is a program of the book, Chinese Soul Food from around the World, was USHFC to connect people who want healthful and recognized as "Best Chinese Cuisine Cookbook in sustainable food and beverage options from restaurants. the World 2012" at the Gourmand World Cookbook Amy Riolo will release an expanded edition of her Awards. She received the award in Paris in February award-winning second cookbook Nile Style: Egyptian 2013. For more information visit http://TheHakka- Candy Wallace Cuisine and Culture in May 2013. She is also planning Nora Pouillon Cookbook.com/press/ a cultural culinary tour to Provence in August 2013. Janet Fletcher announces the publication of Cheese & Beer, an introduction to the most popular craft- beer styles and the cheeses that complement them. Janet’s book tour includes Washington D.C., Oregon, Philadelphia, New York, Madison, Boulder, Southern Dames Win IACP and California, Maine and Texas. James Beard Awards Marie Simmons, award-winning author of over 20 cookbooks, forthcoming cookbook is Taste of Honey Linda Lau Anusaasananan Maricel Presilla (New York) made it a (Andrews McMeel, June 2013) features 60 recipes, a “two-fer” by winning the James Beard glossary describing the taste, description and food pair- Award for “Cookbook of the Year” and the ings of 40 honeys, and includes tidbits on bee history, IACP Award in the General Cookbook bee life, bee anatomy, beekeeping, medicinal uses of category for her Gran Cocina Latina. honey, honey and cheese pairing, honey in baking, and even honey and bee poetry. www.mariesimmons.com Other Dames who won James Beard Awards were Nathalie Dupree (Charleston) Carolyn Wente, Wente Vineyards CEO, is proud to and Cynthia Graubart (Atlanta) for the announce that 2013 marks their family winery’s 130th best American cookbook, Mastering the anniversary. The family business, founded in 1883, Janet Fletcher Art of Southern Cooking. Martha Teichner continued operation through Prohibition selling sacra- (Charleston) and her CBS Sunday Morning mental wine and grapes. For more information, please Team won in the category of Best TV Food visit: www.charlescomm.com/bignews/2013/02/wente- Program, in studio or fixed location. Anne vineyards-celebrates-130th-anniversary/. Willan (Los Angeles) was named to the Cookbook Hall of Fame. SEATTLE Anne also won the Culinary History and Jane Grigson Awards at IACP for The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, Bridget Charters, chef instructor at the Art Institute and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook. of Seattle, co-hosted “KCTS 9 Cooks: Chef’s Kitchen” featuring 16 top chefs from the Pacific Northwest Other IACP award winners were in these categories. preparing their recipes on air. The one-of-a-kind com- Carolyn Wente • Food Matters: Marion Nestle (New York) and Malden Nesheim panion cookbook and DVD were thank-you gifts for for Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics. donations in support of the public-television station. • Health and Special Diet: The Back in the Swing Cookbook: Recipes Cynthia Nims launched a consulting platform for for Eating and Living Well Every Day after Breast Cancer by by her company, Mon Appétit LLC, combining expertise Judith Fertig (Kansas City) and Barbara Unell. gleaned from her 20 years as a freelance writer and • Culinary Tour Operator of the Year: Joanne Weir (San Francisco). cookbook author. Her prime focus is recipe develop- • Entrepreneur/Business Person of the Year: Dorothy Cann Hamil- ment and testing, editorial services for custom publish- ton (New York). ing, and content creation for web sites or consumer • Lifetime Achievement Award: Alice Waters (San Francisco). outlets. Congratulations to the winners and to Dames who Jerilyn Brusseau co-led a citizen diplomacy delegation were finalists in many categories! group, which included U.S. Ambassador David Shear, under the auspices of PeaceTrees Vietnam (PTVN), Jerilyn Brusseau

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Craftsmanship. Tradition.

30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International

LDEI ad 1/4 page 3.7917” X 5.0498” ?s: [email protected] 415 550 8175 Dea dlines 2013 Fall issue - August 1, 2013 | 2014 Winter issue - October 31, 2013 2014 Spring issue - January 15, 2014 | summer issue - April 15, 2014 Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet resolution requirements. Do not Schnucks is send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if Proud To Partner required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. Member Milestones with Les Dames LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or d’Esco er! important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may email a quality Schnucks is a St. Louis based headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. (Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) Email your Member Milestone and photo family owned grocery company to MM Editor, Hayley Matson-Mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed founded in 1939 by “Mom and Pop” – above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames Anna Donovan Schnuck and networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section. Edwin Schnuck. Anna encouraged Cha pter News Edwin to open a store where they CHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250 could sell her homemade potato salad words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news, along with quality meats. noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. The company, now in its third (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the generation, employs 14,500 editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format teammates in 100 stores and may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at 96 in-store pharmacies across [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear the Midwest. in the following issue. E-Newsletter This bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing ® of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “e-news” email. Respond to Helen Roberts at [email protected].

PTOS CARD VIEWS OF THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE If your chapter is involved with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers and exemplify the spirit of the Global Culinary Initiative, send a 200-word description of your event with photos. WE BeLOnG (page 21) features excerpts of insightful, relevant content from Dame’s personal blogs or chapter websites. Be a guest blogger and tell us what’s on your mind! Send inquiries to [email protected] or [email protected].

Upcoming • Grande Dame Award Winner in the • Dames Cook with Kids fall issue • Articles on LDEI Partners SYSCO and Kokkoman ©2013 Schnucks

Summer Quarterly 2013 31

LDEI.indd 1 3/5/13 4:10 PM Atlanta PRESORTED Austin FIRST CLASS Boston U S POSTAGE British Columbia, Canada P.O. Box 4961 PAID Charleston Louisville, KY 40204 LOUISVILLE KY Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio PERMIT #1225 Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minneapolis/St. Paul Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington, DC

A TexAs Wine & Dine experience A walk-around tasting featuring Texas Dames’ wineries, restaurants and artisan food products.

Dames: $45 | Public: $55 Thursday, October 24, 7-9 pm AT&T Conference Center 1900 University Avenue Austin, Texas 78705

@LDEIaustin

Presented by the Austin Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier