4 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2012 ··

Traub at the opening celebration of the Madame Grès exhibition at the Museum of FIT in New York in 2008. Creating something is more satisfying than doing the deal itself. I have much curiosity. But when we execute, that’s really the satisfaction. — MARVIN TRAUB ··

MARVIN TRAUB, RETAILING LEGEND, DEAD AT 87

PHOTO BY SCOTT RUDD

WWD THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2012 5

WWD.COM

the groundwork for the upscal- and off the beaten path in ad- Entertainment” and out of the to spend in the U.S., in 1976, to By DAVID MOIN ing of the business that had vance of these import promo- sky appeared 12 helicopters, mark the nation’s bicentennial, been laid by other executives tions. If the team couldn’t find in fleet formation, “Apocalypse and had a full itinerary, first MARVIN S. TRAUB, one of the there since the late Forties, in- enough products, Traub had the Now” style. They landed by the visiting Washington, D.C., then 20th century’s most visionary cluding Jim Schoff Sr., a presi- merchandise·· made. The import store and, one by one, designers meeting ’s Mayor retailers, acclaimed for his mer- dent, and Jed Davidson, Larry promotions became a tradition, emerged from the choppers — Abraham Beame and lunching chandising and marketing show- Lachman and Harold Krensky, kicking off the fall sea- , Bill Blass, Donna at the Waldorf-Astoria. Yet by manship, died at his home in all chairmen at various times. son with designers, celebrities Karan and Louis Dell’Olio going through proper channels, New York on Wednesday. He was Ye t it was Traub who really and even heads of state visit- among them. As an encore a Traub managed to escort the 87 and had been working up until took it to its flashy heights. Like ing Bloomingdale’s 59th Street year later, Traub brought the Queen on a half-hour tour of the June despite declining health. a theatrical producer, he staged flagship, and burnishing the Big Apple Circus to the Willow store, and arranged a commem- He had been suffering from blad- extravagant store promotions in store’s reputation for innovative Grove, Pa., branch opening, with orative exhibit of British and der cancer. the late Seventies through the merchandising and excitement. jugglers, clowns and designers U.S. fashion just for her visit. The former Bloomingdale’s Eighties revolving around ex- After each promotion, Traub parading in, led by Diane von For the way he could ro- chairman and chief executive mance product, Traub was often officer was a tireless champion compared with the late Stanley of theatrical retailing, hav- Marcus of Neiman Marcus, ing energized the store’s sell- who pioneered the country ing floors with exotic import promotion strategy, though promotions, glitzy galas and former Vogue editor in chief designer shops. He transcend- Grace Mirabella preferred to ed the competition by bring- call Traub “the Sol Hurok of ing glamour and sex appeal to retailing.” According to some Bloomingdale’s, making it a People are happier retail experts, the term “retail- magnet for East Side singles, ing as theater” was inspired by tourists worldwide and high and healthier Traub’s work at Bloomingdale’s. society, shopped by the likes He received the Gold Medal of of Jacqueline Kennedy, Lady and live longer by the National Retail Federation Bird Johnson, Faye Dunaway in 1991, as well as the Légion and Diana Ross. They all had d’Honneur and Ordre National Bloomingdale’s charge cards. being involved. du Mérite from France and was Traub was an avid support- — MARVIN TRAUB, awarded the Commendatore er of designers and launched della Repubblica by Italy. several, most notably Ralph FEBRUARY 2012 After leaving Bloomingdale’s Lauren. Decades ago, Traub gave in 1991, Traub formed Marvin Lauren his first big break by get- Traub Associates, establish- ting Bloomingdale’s to place an ing his second career as a order with him when he was just dealmaker and consultant and designing ties. The decision has thriving on a different kind of become industry lore. industry action. With his vast “I will miss his hand on my network of contacts from his shoulder,” Lauren said. “Marvin Bloomingdale’s days — store ex- has been part of my life for over ecutives, manufacturers, design- 45 years. His support and loyalty ers, distributors and dignitaries extended way beyond my pro- — Traub generated a steady flur- fessional life. When I opened ·· ry of cross-border licensing and our store on Madison Avenue retail projects, embodying the and 72nd Street, Marvin was spirit of globalization. Though my first customer. When he left gone from Bloomingdale’s, he Bloomingdale’s over 20 years still lived and breathed fashion ago, our relationship was just as and retail and stayed in the cen- strong. He and his beloved wife, ter of it all, even as an octoge- Lee, have always been friends. narian. “Creating something is Marvin was not only an icon in more satisfying than doing the the world of retail, but a great deal itself,” he once told WWD. supporter of the culture of this “I have much curiosity. But city.” when we execute, that’s really “He was a giant, not just in the satisfaction. Not when you our industry but in general,” make a deal.” said Mortimer Singer, president Traub loved to travel and ex- of Marvin Traub Associates. plore different cultures, partic- “What made him so special is ularly India and France, his fa- that he cared about so many vorite two countries outside the things — people, places and U.S. Almost up to the very end, products. He had an amazing he maintained a schedule as level of curiosity, and it was in- rigorous as anyone half his age, fectious. defying the notion that aging “I remember the first time I means losing touch. Traveling met him in his office, 10 years to places like Paris, Dubai and ago. He was sitting on a chair Mumbai was like commuting opposite me. He liked to put his for Traub. “People are happier feet on furniture. So he had one and healthier and live longer by leg up on his coffee table and being involved,” Traub said in was wearing these beautiful a February WWD interview. “I Kieselstein-Cord cuff links and have two partners whose com- this impeccable suit. He was in- bined age is less than mine. If credibly put together. It was an you get pleasure at what you are interview, but it didn’t feel like doing, and are surrounded by a one. He was curious about me, talented staff of young people, my family, my work. He put me Traub, flanked by models wearing (right) an that helps supply the energy. I at ease.” ivory and white silk and linen dress by Perry like to think I push the young Traub spent 41 years at Ellis and (left) a white and black linen dress people when I travel or anything Bloomingdale’s, starting as by circa 1990. else.” Singer, his business part- a merchandise assistant. He PHOTO BY TONY PALMIERI ner, has taken over the reins at served as ceo for 13 years, until MTA, as expected. 1991, and was also president clusive and rare products from would adorn his office and home Furstenberg riding an elephant. Traub often wore Giorgio of the store for nine years. In around the world, introducing with posters and products mark- “He made me ride the el- Armani, Canali and Ralph recent years he reinvented his to the U.S. centuries-old cer- ing the occasion. They were his ephant,” said von Furstenberg. Lauren suits, and had an un- career as an impresario of the emonial robes from Beijing’s trophies. While some of the pro- “He was such a showman. He derstated manner and a nasally global deal through his consul- Forbidden City for a 1980 China motions were profitable and oth- loved that, and embraced it. voice that belied his strong will tancy Marvin Traub Associates, promotion, for example. Or for ers weren’t, for Traub, they were Marvin was so incredibly im- and aggressive tactics. Yet he where he became one of the the “Mediterranean Odyssey” all worth it as image builders portant to fashion, to promoting basked in the limelight of his industry’s most astute — and in 1987, he imported a $15,000 that made Bloomingdale’s fun fashion, and to retail. He invent- business exploits and wealth of peripatetic — analysts of emerg- Christian Lacroix Provencal- and successful. ed the showbiz for retail. It was connections and was never shy ing markets, including Russia, inspired satin dress even though Traub was equally sensation- endless…the things he would do, about celebrating his achieve- China and the Middle East. the store didn’t sell couture. al with store openings. One of his and everybody always did it for ments, his personal milestones As a retailer, he was in- Traub sent some of his team to most dramatic was for the King him.” or name-dropping his guest strumental in elevating Kennedy Airport to pick up the of Prussia, Pa., branch opening Traub considered his most for breakfast at the Regency. Bloomingdale’s reputation from dress, with security. in the mid-Eighties. A black-tie memorable moment on the job Whether it was his 80th birthday a mainstream department store It was typical for Traub’s crowd waited in the parking lot when Queen Elizabeth II of party held at the Rainbow Room to a chic emporium with wide buyers to spend weeks scour- as the Philadelphia Mummers England visited the 59th Street or his 40th wedding anniversary brand recognition, building on ing ateliers in fashion capitals marching band played “That’s flagship. She had just one day {Continued on page 6} 6 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2012

{Continued from page 5} can it be?’ When I was the men’s fragrance at Madame Tussauds in Times Square, the buyer, Marvin wanted to position men with industry would come out in force. Few in- spritzers near the doors and escalators for dustry figures were as well known or com- a Calvin Klein launch. I looked in restau- manded such attention. rants for handsome men because that’s At Bloomingdale’s, Traub’s philosophy where you find unemployed actors. There was to “seek and create,” give the store a were all these gorgeous men. museum character at times, and support “And Marvin’s energy — you had to run designers. In addition to launching Ralph behind him.” Lauren, he launched as well “He’s been a wonderful mentor to as , with whom he struck me throughout my career, beginning at an unusual deal in the Eighties to become Bloomingdale’s, as well as a mentor to an in-house Bloomingdale’s designer, with many designers and generations of ex- Bloomingdale’s doing the manufacturing ecutives in the fashion business,” said and Kamali designing swimsuits, ready- Denise Seegal, executive director of M to-wear and hosiery. Traub also opened Magtague Holdings Ltd., Magaschoni Inc. in-store boutiques for Yves Saint Laurent “As a very young person — 26 years old and Calvin Klein, among others. He built — I was brought into this incredibly excit- an extremely aggressive, tough team of ing world of designers. Marvin took us to buyers and, for years, had some of the Europe to the shows. I was going to Yves L best industry talent, including the late Kal Saint Laurent, Valentino and Sonia Rykiel Marvin Traub and Inès de la Fressange at the Ruttenstein, the legendary fashion direc- as a buyer at such an early age, and having launch of Traub’s book, “Like No Other Career,” tor who was instrumental in furthering meetings at the Meurice hotel with Marvin, at the American Embassy in Paris in 2008. Traub’s splashy promotions, innovative Kal Ruttenstein, with all the buyers, divi- merchandising and designer strategy, as sionals and [general merchandise manag- well as Barbara D’Arcy White, the interior ers]. Marvin wanted insight from all his designer whose model rooms at the store team. What did you see? What was exciting? burnished the store’s reputation for fash- He helped shaped a lot of designer busi- ion and product development. nesses and introduced them to the U.S.” Bringing sex appeal to the store was “I first met Marvin when I joined part of the Traub doctrine. By catering to Bloomingdale’s training program in 1986,” young and trendy East Siders, the store recalled Jim Gold, president of specialty became a singles’ hangout where sup- retailing at Neiman Marcus Group. “I was posed customers could be seen exchanging immediately struck by his passion for the phone numbers for dates. Once he told a business. It was a thrill to see him on the newspaper: “On Saturdays, Bloomingdale’s selling floor and talk to him about product is the biggest party in town.” He liked that in my area of responsibility. Marvin cared people affectionately called the store about everyone’s opinion, even those of “Bloomies” and encouraged his merchants us who were just out of college. When I to put the Bloomies logo on more and more decided to apply to Harvard Business products, including panties. It mattered School, Marvin was incredibly support- more to him that anything with the mark ive. Even though I had only been with

Traub receives the Légion d’honneur With George Traub’s enormous energy some attributed award in 1986, accompanied by Balanchine. to early-morning workouts with a personal Karl Lagerfeld and Lee Traub. trainer; others said he was driven. But Traub liked to say it was simply good genes. became popular souvenirs, at least for a Bloomingdale’s for three years at that time. point, he agreed to write a letter of recom- Though he focused on building the sta- mendation on my behalf. Typical of Marvin, tus and business of the 59th Street flagship, he did so with tremendous purpose and Traub did expand the chain with mixed professionalism, even taking the time to in- success. Some of the branches he opened, terview me before writing the letter.” such as King of Prussia, have endured, but Traub’s career in the late Eighties the Valley View, Tex., and Fresh Meadows, took a more difficult turn. In 1988, N.Y., locations were closed. Traub also Bloomingdale’s and its then parent compa- closed the Stamford, Conn., store, which ny, Federated Department Stores Inc., were opened in the Fifties. He had been in- taken over by Canadian developer Robert volved in planning that store. But the Campeau. In the months ahead, Campeau flagship always took the lion’s and his retail concerns began to sink share of his attention. under the weight of heavy debt from the Traub with Traub himself received much atten- Federated acquisition and the 1986 pur- Bill Blass and tion from the media, and was perceived chase of Corp., so he desper- Oscar de la as a one-man show, with executives re- ately put Bloomingdale’s up for sale to try Renta after porting to him very much in his shadow. to save the company. Traub made a valiant a helicopter However, Traub would make a point of effort to buy Bloomingdale’s, but couldn’t With Queen landing for a relating how he helped nurture the ca- arrange financing after being rebuffed by Elizabeth II during Bloomingdale’s reers of many who, after spending years U.S. and Japanese bankers and retailers. It her historic visit store opening. at Bloomingdale’s, rose to higher posts at was a big disappointment for him. to the store. other companies. Within fashion and retail In 1990, Federated filed for Chapter circles, many individuals, from designers 11 reorganization, and the next year, Imelda Marcos shops at Bloomingdale’s with Traub and Lester Gribetz. to ceo’s, say they owe much to Traub. Traub would be disappointed again. With “When I think about starting in 1974 on Campeau out and new management run- the Bloomingdale’s training squad right out ning Federated, Traub was asked to retire of college, it truly was like no other store from the store, which he did reluctantly. in the world,” said Robin Burns-McNeill, Federated felt the chain needed new lead- chairman of Batallure Beauty. “Marvin was ership and direction. the leader and the visionary. He put into Initially, Traub wasn’t pleased with the place the culture and mode of operation. choice of his successor at Bloomingdale’s, Yo u were taught not to just imagine the Michael Gould, who took the business on a impossible, but to go after it and deliver more profitable path of expansion with less it. The lessons I learned from Marvin are of the glitz and glam, greater emphasis on some of the most valuable I took with me branches, and by honing Bloomingdale’s in for the rest of my career. One was making a niche priced below Neiman Marcus and the product and customer experience ex- Saks , and above Macy’s. Two traordinary. I remember going to the mar- years earlier, Gould, then ceo of Giorgio ket and walking into a showroom. I wasn’t Inc., accused Bloomingdale’s of diverting concerned about a competitive store beat- the Giorgio fragrance, putting the two on ing us to the punch, I was concerned about uneasy footing. another buyer from Bloomingdale’s getting After a strained, three-and-a-half month there first. I also learned how to optimize a transition, Traub’s final day had come, in a winner. Take Giorgio of Beverly Hills. We manner he was used to. Pom-pom girls and had no idea the demand would be so high. a marching band bid him farewell as he ex- I remember Marvin and Lester Gribetz say- ited the first floor with the staff bidding him ing, ‘What have we got here and how big farewell. Meanwhile, the new chairman PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER, SONIA MOSKOWITZ, MURRAY FEIERBERG, GUY DE LORT, HARRY MORRISON, DOMINIQUE MAITRE AND FAIRCHILD ARCHIVE WWD THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2012 7 WWD.COM

and ceo was quietly escorting Calvin Klein business school, he married Lee Laufer, a Traub in 1981 with Martha Graham, through the bridge floor discussing changes dancer who studied under Martha Graham and Shirley MacLaine at a in the Calvin Klein boutique. It was a sign in the Forties and was typically at his side benefit for the Martha Graham Co. that Bloomingdale’s was about to head in a at store parties and accompanying him on different, more subdued direction. overseas buying trips. Traub had let go of the reins, yet it Some attributed Traub’s enormous en- seemed hard for him to let go emotion- ergy to early-morning workouts with a per- ally. In 1996, he was insistent on touring a sonal trainer; others said he was driven. Bloomingdale’s store in Century City, Los But Traub liked to say it was simply good Angeles, before it opened. He was so eager genes. His mother had the same kind of en- that he arrived a day before ceo Gould ergy, and his great-great-grandfather took would arrive for the last-minute tweaking. his fifth wife at the age of 78. Marvin did Store officials asked Traub to return later have a pacemaker installed when he was in and informed him that Gould hadn’t yet his 80s, and needed to use a cane, but he

seen the store in its final state, but Traub loved work too much to retire. When he had persisted and was granted access. an operation to get a tumor removed from Right after leaving Bloomingdale’s, an intestine, Traub conducted conference Traub became a vice chairman of calls from his hospital bed. Federated for a short time and then formed Edward Meyer, chairman, president Marvin Traub Associates, his market- and ceo of the Grey Global Group, once

ing and consulting firm. At MTA, he be- said he and Traub started working at came involved in the expansion of Harvey Bloomingdale’s around the same time. Nichols in the Middle East, mall projects But after three years, Meyer departed. “I in Panama City and Athens, and the Time thought, ‘What am I hanging around here Warner Center at New York’s Columbus for? This guy is going to be chairman.’” And Marvin and Lee Circle. He helped reshape Moscow’s larg- he was right. Traub with Ralph est department store,·· Tsum, into a designer “He crams more meetings in a hour than and Ricky Lauren emporium, with Giorgio Armani, Bottega anyone does in a day,” Andy Traub, one of in 1990. Veneta, Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, Marvin’s three children, said at his father’s among others. And he was most gratified 75th birthday party held at Bloomingdale’s. when, in a consulting capacity, he helped “I don’t know what I can say about Bloomingdale’s open its first international Marvin that he hasn’t already said about Marvin and Lee Traub store in Dubai. It was like coming home for himself,” joked Lauren at the same party. “I at their wedding. him. started out younger than Marvin. Now I’m Most of Traub’s efforts post-Blooming- older than him.” Turning serious, Lauren, dale’s bore fruit, if not always. In late 1992, whose Polo empire got off the ground when he led an investment group that acquired he sold Traub neckties some 30 years ago, Conran’s from London-based Storehouse added, “More than anybody else, Marvin is plc, and tried to build up the business responsible for developing my career.” in the U.S., but the venture failed. He At his 80th birthday party, another re- once launched a strategy of introducing tail powerhouse, Allen Questrom, said, With the Missonis during the Missoni Party More than anybody else, Marvin is in 1974. responsible for developing my career. —

American and European brands and de- “The best part about Marvin is that he is signers to India, in partnership with Mohan always going somewhere. Every time I sit Murjani, but that venture also failed after down with him for breakfast he says he has some disagreements. He also advised Kira to catch a plane to Russia, China or some Plastinina, the teenage Russian designer, place I have never heard of.” on expanding into the U.S. After a dozen Harrison recalled a 48-hour trip to U.S. openings, financial difficulties forced Europe with Traub and a 20-year-old busi- the designer to close the stores. ness associate last year: “After 24 hours, I Traub always forged ahead, forming was exhausted, the 20-year-old was beyond new partnerships and business deals. In exhausted, and Marvin just kept on going.” 1994, he joined Financo Inc., an invest- Traub cowrote two books, the first titled ment banking firm, as senior adviser, while “Like No Other Store,” chronicled his up- operating his consulting firm. Traub and bringing, his early retail·· days and his ca- Financo chairman Gilbert Harrison were reer at Bloomingdale’s. The second, “Like inseparable at industry functions and were No Other Career,” summarized his life able to bring each other clients, though ul- after Bloomingdale’s — highlights and low timately the partnership dissolved. lights. The first section of the book has 30 In 2008, Traub helped establish a fund sketches from designers and accompany- for investing, called TSM Capital, which ing testimonials from Traub’s farewell to took stakes in Ellen Tracy, Rachel Roy Bloomingdale’s party in Paris in 1991. For and Matthew Williamson. In May 2009, the book launch, Gould hosted a cocktail Windsong Brands LLC, the Westport, Conn.- party at the store and said he was “be- based private equity firm, teamed up with dazzled” by what Traub accomplished Marvin Traub Associates to form Falchi post Bloomingdale’s. “To strike out and Holdings LLC, which acquired Carlos say I am going to start over — I am really Falchi, the accessories brand. blown away by his boundless energy.…He The Traubs in India in 1958. Traub was born April 14, 1925, in the sees things differently. He sees the youth Bronx, and lived for several years on the in something.” It was apparent then that Upper West Side of Manhattan. He was the Traub and Gould had resolved their differ- son of Sam Traub, an executive at Lily of ences. France lingerie, and Bea, a personal shop- Traub is immediately survived by his per at . They were a stylish wife Lee: his daughter, Margaret, who couple, driven by their careers and high founded and runs the lighting company society. They spent most of their evenings Adesso; sons Andrew, a retail consultant on the town at business-related dinners, and a former executive at Macy’s, and rather than at home. Their flair for prod- James, a journalist, and four grandchil- uct and showmanship, however, was passed dren. down to their son. Services will be held at the Central In World War II, Traub participated in Synagogue, 652 Lexington Avenue and the Normandy Invasion, landing at Utah 55th Street, on Sunday, 10 a.m. Donations Beach in 1944, and was shot in the leg at may be made to the Marvin and Lee Traub Metz by a German sniper. The mayor of Flexible Financial Aid Fund, c/o Mary Metz discovered some years ago that he’d Preston, Harvard University, 124 Mount been shot in the town and invited Traub to Auburn Street, Cambridge, Mass., 02138, visit and then decorated him for his valor. and Pin Down Bladder Cancer, c/o Marvin Over the years, the pain from the wound Traub Associates, 410 Park Avenue, Suite would flare on occasion. Before the war, 910, New York, N.Y., 10022, or pindown- he attended Harvard University, from bladdercancer.org. With Estée which he graduated in 1947. After the war, Lauder in he attended Harvard Business School, FOR INDUSTRY REACTION, 1974. from which he graduated in 1949. While at SEE PAGE 8 8 WWD THURSDAY, JULY 12, 2012 WWD.COM Remembering Marvin Recollections of the merchant and the man from around the industry and around the world.

Ralph Lauren: “Marvin Traub has Bloomingdale’s, it was always a given been part of my life for over 45 years. Marvin and Lee Traub that you were never to walk into a His support and loyalty extended way being honored by the showroom or a factory and just take beyond my professional life. When I Martha Graham Dance and buy what was there. You had to opened our store on Madison Avenue Company in March. make it different and better.” and 72nd, Marvin was my first cus- tomer. When he left Bloomingdale’s Glen Senk, ceo, David Yurman: “A over 20 years ago, our relationship one in a million human being — was just as strong. He and his be- kind and nurturing. He had higher loved wife, Lee, have always been our standards both for himself and ev- friends, sharing so much, watching eryone working for him. He taught each other’s children grow up. Marvin me so much. He just has so much was not only an icon in the world of energy, passion, curiosity and drive. retail, but a great supporter of the He had such a profound impact on culture of this city. He was a rare per- so many people. He taught every- son and a rare friend. I will miss his body to be the very best. He would hand on my shoulder.” take risks on people. He made me head of Bloomingdale’s By Mail Karl Lagerfeld: “I’m really sad. He when I was 29. He’d be very clear and his wife were the nicest couple with what the expectations were in the business. He was great, so FOR MORE and then he just let you do it. In the cheerful, so friendly. He is somebody REACTION, SEE early days, he walked the floor and I will always remember. He was a key WWD.com/ he knew the sales staff by name and figure in retail when it was a fairy fashion-news. they called him Mr. Traub.” tale. His innovation was to make a store that was not so noteworthy into Gilbert Harrison, chairman, Financo PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY the trendiest shop in town.” Inc.: “[Marvin] was truly one of the first to believe in us and we jokingly Michael Gould, chairman and ceo concept of the ‘store as theater’ with great merchant princes. He truly : “He was a man of called him ‘the godfather’ because of Bloomingdale’s: “I remember a international fairs, exciting merchan- loved every minute of his life and fashion. He really understood the he opened the doors to America year ago flying to Dubai with Marvin dise from all over the world, unparal- was at home with any retailer or ap- soul of it and the spirit. For me, the for us and paved the way for our and his associate Kelsey [Scroggins] leled displays and presentation. He parel company you can imagine. He most memorable thing is how he’d international success. He helped so to visit Bloomingdale’s in Dubai, introduced and nurtured new design- was a senior advisor to Financo for take a country, such as India, and many other designers, too — he be- which was doing a New York event. ers, like Ralph Lauren, the Missonis, 10 years…[and] he taught me more go on a journey. There was nothing lieved in young people and in talent. Marvin played an important role Sonia Rykiel and many more, and he than you’d ever know. he couldn’t handle. He had such And he had an incredible charisma. introducing us to the Al Tayer Group made the 59th Street flagship store “Marvin left to build his own con- passion and set standards for what Whenever we met, it was a feast, full [which is licensed to operate the mantra — ‘Like no other store in the sulting firm in 2004. He reinvented retail was all about. He had amaz- of memories.” store]…and planning the store and world’ — a fact, not just a claim.” the way people shopped. He never ing relationships with designers.… this event. Imagine at 85, he was abandoned being a hands-on mer- You couldn’t say no to Marvin. Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, presi- telling them he didn’t think they Burt Tansky: “The most important chant. He wore out our vice presi- When I met the Queen of England, dent and chief executive officer, were buying enough. So at din- thing I can say is that it’s been a dents and young associates in their I was with Marvin. Only Marvin Macy’s Inc.: “I was close to Marvin ner, I recall asking him of all the privilege to have known Marvin 20s. He’d get off the plane, take a could have the Queen of England at for many years, and his guidance projects he’s done since leaving over these many, many years and shower and run to a meeting.” Bloomingdale’s with Calvin, Ralph and advice were invaluable to me Bloomingdale’s, which is the one... to admire the work he’d done at and myself. Only Marvin could turn as well as to other members of and before I even had a chance to Bloomingdale’s. He created a role Laurence C. Leeds Jr., chairman, Lexington Avenue instead of running our company’s management team. finish the question, Marvin’s com- model for retailers in this country and Buckingham Capital Management: downtown to uptown.” Marvin was a visionary and innova- ment was ‘Bloomingdale’s.’ There all over the world. I send my sympa- “He was a best friend and a marvel- tor. He was a true master of fashion was just something that he felt thy to his wife, Lee, and his family. ous human being. He was a profes- Diane von Furstenberg: “It’s very retailing, and we all learned so much was so special to be working with We were always competitors but very sional and brilliant retailer who took sad. Marvin was so incredibly im- from him. I continued to meet with Bloomingdale’s again.” friendly competitors. I was a great ad- Bloomingdale’s from a mediocre, portant to fashion, to promoting Marvin for regular updates over the mirer of Marvin as a retailer and then run-of-the-mill store and made it fashion, and to retail. He invented years. In fact, we had a meeting Ron Johnson, chairman and ceo, in his consulting business. He was a into the most dynamic and most the showbiz for retail. He was such planned for yesterday that he was J.C. Penney Co. Inc.: “Marvin’s had terrific guy. He will be missed.” exciting retailer in America. And he a showman. He loved that, and em- unable to attend. Marvin meant an extraordinarily positive impact on was a magnificent husband and fa- braced it. He invented the Indian so much to me. I will miss him. our industry for the past 50 years Guy Peyrelongue, retired ceo of ther, and had many great friends and promotion and the Chinese promo- Our thoughts and prayers go out to and was one of the most innovative L’Oréal’s Cosmair Division: “For me, a personal life that was warm and tion. He was so ahead of his time. Marvin’s family.” merchants in the world. He shared I was so touched by his great love for intense. He and Lee had a great ro- For the opening of Bloomingdale’s at his wisdom with others. Earlier France and its art and craftsmanship. mance that lasted all their lives. I’ll King of Prussia, he made me ride on Allen Questrom, former chairman this year, when I asked him about That came from when he served in never forget when his chauffeur was an elephant.” of J.C. Penney, Macy’s and Barneys our transformation at J.C. Penney, the American army in Europe. dying of AIDS. He used to drive up New York: “Marvin certainly led he told me, “Don’t blink. Stay the “[He was] a very great merchant to the Bronx to bring him food.” Leonard A. Lauder: “The world may more than a complete life. He was course.’ Those were his exact words. and a great talent. The man had never see a broadbanded merchant quite a character, a total optimist. He encouraged me. He said we were great style, great heart and a youth- Andrew Rosen, president, Theory: like Marvin Traub again. He almost He was the most enthusiastic guy on the right track.” ful attitude. When he retired, Traub “I go so far back with Marvin. I singlehandedly led the conver- on any subject, with the energy of did not stop working. He pursued was a young boy, and I remember sion of Bloomingdale’s from a local a person 25 years younger. I would Elie Tahari: “There are not too many projects and new ventures. He was a sitting in Marvin’s dining room department store to a national run into him at the Regency, where people in this industry I was as close most wonderful family man [and] a at Bloomingdale’s with my father brand. He created the concept of he always ate breakfast, and he to as Marvin. He started my career. great example.” and Marvin. He was a giant and Saturday’s Generation during the was always either on his way or just He invited me to lunch in the con- a real innovator. He really made Sixties and Seventies. The opening of coming back from India or China. ference room at Bloomingdale’s. In Norma Kamali: “Marvin inaugurat- Bloomingdale’s an exciting shopping Bloomingdale’s decorator rooms be- He was a real merchant. When the middle of the lunch, I got upset ed the idea of a designer having a experience and a cool place.” came the social event of the season.” I was a home furnishings buyer and walked out and said, ‘I’d never license with a store. I had a license at Abraham & Straus, I visited sell Bloomingdale’s.’ We were fight- with Bloomingdale’s in the Eighties Lew Frankfort, ceo, Coach Inc.: “I Mayor Michael R. Bloomberg: “I am Bloomingdale’s, and I remember ing over a location. He wanted to put and we did so well. This was when went to a meeting with him and my saddened by the passing of Marvin seeing Marvin walking the floors. He me in contemporary and I wanted stores used to be stores, and the team at Bloomingdale’s in 1981 to Traub, a proud New Yorker and a true was always there talking to people. to be in designer. But he had no buyers were on the floor interacting discuss our wholesale business. He symbol of what one can accomplish in He focused on the theater of the ego at all. He called me the next with the customers, and you could had learned that I was opening our New York City through hard work and business. He will be missed.” day and wanted to have breakfast see the energy. Nobody’s come near first retail store on Madison Avenue creativity. Under Marvin’s leadership, since lunch didn’t work out. He said, to what he did. Bloomingdale’s was and 65th Street. Marvin stopped Bloomingdale’s became much more : “I remember when ‘Let’s start from the beginning,’ and the center of the universe. He was me outside the conference room than a local department store, and I met him with Joel Horowitz. We he walked me through the store. It an incredible man and lived an and said, “Lou, I’m going to scream thanks to his vision, today it stands as were showing at the Holiday Inn in became the biggest success I ever incredible life.” at you in front of your staff and an iconic piece of New York.” downtown L.A. because we couldn’t had in one store. my team. What I’m going to say is afford to show at MAGIC. We set up “He was the most gentlemanly Robert Chavez, president and ceo, that you’re being a very bad partner Hubert de Givenchy: “I liked Marvin in a run-down conference room. He and generous man, and very pro- Hermès of Paris: “I spent almost for opening your own retail store. very much. He was…an absolutely came in and sat on a broken couch fessional. I think he was the Prince 10 years working for Marvin at But off the record, I want you to charming man. He always supported and loved the line. He put us in of Retail.” Bloomingdale’s in its heyday. He know it’s one of the smartest things the Givenchy label and gave us the Bloomingdale’s and really launched not only set the standard, he always you could ever do.’ We went into possibilities to do a lot of things to- us and stood behind us. When he Arnold Aronson, managing director raised the bar to a new level, and the conference room and he said, gether at Bloomingdale’s. I had a lot walked into the room, it was like God of retail strategies, Kurt Salmon: always made it more dynamic and ‘Before we talk about our business of admiration for his work, for him, was arriving. We remained friends “It is hard to imagine the retail more exciting than anybody else had at Bloomingdale’s, I can’t believe and he was a great friend.” ever since. He understood the value world without the daily presence of ever made it. He made it so excit- you’re opening your own store.…’ He of theater in the stores and launch- Marvin…but he leaves a legacy of ing that you wanted to do it with had great vision. He wanted me to Rosita Missoni: “He was one of the ing and standing behind designers.” iconic proportions.…He invented the him. I learned in those days how, at know I had a lot of courage.”