Baja Citizen Community Magazine Spring 2017

Index The CitizenYour Community Magazine 5 Letter from the Editor 6 Construction Underway at Vista Coral Editor Gari-Ellen Donohoe Oceanfront Residences [email protected] 8 La Bella, Eleven Years in the Making 612 159 1388

10 Letters to the Editor Graphic Design 11 Quichu Isais, Maestra Extraordinairia Gabriela Inzunza Salgado 12 Creating the Next Cabo Pulmo 612 156 8330 in the Sea Of Cortez The Baja Citizen community magazine 14 Tales of Caution from the (Real Estate) is a monthly, free circulation magazine that is distributed in La Paz and the Trenches! communities of El Centenario, Todos 16 Smiley Citizens Santos, El Pescadero, El Sargento/La 18 La Paz Map Ventana and Los Barriles. 20 Ramblings: Expats are a Bunch The views of contributors to The Baja of Complainers Citizen community magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the pub- 21 When in Mexico... lishers. 22 Good Reads while Chilling Out Publisher: Hally J. Productions S. de R.L. on a Baja Beach La Paz, BCS, Mexico 23090 24 Downtown La Paz Just Got a Lot Brighter: Ciudad Mural La Paz 25 Día de los Niños: California Mia 26 FANLAP News 27 Black Skimmers of the La Paz Tidal Flats 28 Empowering Local Youth in Baja 29 English for Tourism at Cobach 11 in La Paz 30 Get Ready for May Days On The Cover

Kat Bennett has been a full-time resident of La Paz since 2005. In addition to working in Allende Books, Kat has appeared in local theater productions, has worked on several translation projects, and is a frequent contributor to the Baja Citizen. She is The Baja Citizen 4 April/May 2017 an avid amateur photographer. Letter from the Editor

It is Semana Santa in Mexico, which means it’s vacation time!

Semana Santa is a big deal in Mexico and a tradition that cannot be ig- nored or go unnoticed.

During the days leading up to Easter Sunday, downtown will be cleared out, beaches will start becoming a sea of tents and parked cars, and grocery stores will be humming with customers at all hours of the day as they prepare for their tradi- tional holiday get away. During Se- mana Santa, the people of Mexico the year in Mexico. For those who attempt to abandon their normal are still left in the city, they will life as a laborer, student, or house- be heading to mass at the Catholic wife, and to forget daily stresses and church.

School is out for over 200,000 stu- In several cities in mainland Mexico, conflictsdents in - ifBCS even for for the just two a few weeks days. including Oaxaca and San Cristobal (April 8th to April 23rd), and sever- de las Casas, religious observances of Semana Santa are still strongly for the week of the 10th to the 14th. alBanks government will be closedoffices Thursday,will be closed the is celebrated but religious celebra- 13th, and Friday, the 14th. celebrated.tions in the However streets will in La be Paz, hard mass to

Grocery stores, department stores, and most restaurants will be open find.Please be aware that the Municipal- regular hours. Smaller businesses - may or may not be open. So before eration Semana Santa 2017 is in ef- you head out, it’s a good idea to ity of La Paz has announced that Op highways heading out to the various small business is open. fectbeaches for the around influx the of travelers city. Operation on the call first to make sure your favorite Semana Santa 2017 hopes to pro- Semana Santa is much like Spring tect the safety of Sudcalifornianos Break up north, but in Mexico, the Easter holidays are a combination of the number of car accidents. Stra- andtegic visitorscheckpoints to La will Paz be by positioned reducing Santa, or Holy Week, which this year at the entrance and exits of the city twostarts weeks. on Palm The first Sunday, week Aprilis Semana 9th. until April 16th. The second week is Pascua, which is from Resurrection Sunday, April If you are traveling, be sure to make 16th, until the following Saturday. hotel reservations as far in advance as possible as hotels will be full this Mexico is predominately a Catho- time of year. Also, it may be very dif- lic country, and Semana Santa cel- ebrates the last days of Christ’s life. - Easter is the celebration of Christ’s ficultlax, or tohead book out national to the beach flights. and Theen- Resurrection. It is also the release best plan is to just stay put and re

Santa, along with Christmas, is the joy the show! frommost theimportant sacrifices religious of Lent. holiday Semana of Yours, Gari-Ellen

April/May 2017 5 The Baja Citizen Construction Underway at Vista Coral Oceanfront Residences

TBC

On the southern end of the heart of Vista Coral and La Paz waterfront, in the achieve what we have been called to Oceanfront Residences is be, a great world class destination, Marinanow under Cortez, construction. Vista Coral the capital of nautical tourism in the brick at the construction Gulf of California,” he said. - Onsite handto celebrate to lay was the Gov first- knowledged the support the state Governor Carlos Mendoza attends the laying the first brick ceremony - at Vista Coral Residences. Developerand municipal Valerio governments González also have ac - offered to him and to Vista Coral ernor Carlos Mendoza Da Residences, “We are sure that today vis, La Paz Mayor Arman hence the importance of working do Martinez and local developer thetogether economy with ofthe Baja business California sector Sur, in there will never be better circum- ValerioVista Coral Gonzalez. Oceanfront Residences order to boost and consolidate the is the best time to invest in La Paz, - tourism development of all desti- dential units, including four pent- stances.” willhouses, feature 10 three-bedroom, six floors with 2846 two-resi bedroom and four one-bedroom + nationsAccompanied in Baja by California Mayor Armando Sur.” studio, all with beautiful views of - that the start of construction on front Residences webpage boosts Martinez,Vista Coral the Residences Governor is stressed an ex- thethat, bay “It of is La the Paz. perfect Vista Coralhome Ocean away from home, whether you are look- - ing for a full ownership residence amplecourages of in the investors. confidence He reiterat that La- for rental income, the perfect place Pazed the and full Baja support California of his adminis Sur en- to spend that unforgettable vaca- tration to promote all tourist de- Laying the first brick ceremony tion, or simply want to live full-time velopments that are sustainable at Vista Coral Oceanfront Residences. and are committed to using local labor and materials. The Vista Coral Residences will be inThe La startingPaz.” price at Vista Coral completed by Fall of 2018 with an Residences is $275,000.00 US. 17 “We are working to implement the investment of 300 million pesos. residences have already been sold. tools that allow us to attract more and better investment; we want to spa, restaurant and parking area. At the brick laying ceremony Gover- offer the facilities to those who want The project includes a pool, gym, home to a beautiful roof garden, is the vocation and main driver of California Sur. We are determined to Theequipped 7th floor with at a Vistagame Coralroom, will swim be- nor Mendoza Davis said, “Tourism to bet on the development of Baja ming pool and yoga salon along

with incredible views of La Paz and theThe Sea Vista of Cortez. Coral Residences sales

office is located at Vista Coral, on- thetion corner on Vista of CoralMarquez Oceanfront de Leon Resi and- Topetedences, in contact La Paz. the For Vistamore Coralinforma of-

www.vistacoral.com fices in La Paz at 612 129 7482. The Baja Citizen 6 April/May 2017

La Bella, Eleven Years in the Making A Dream Comes True

By Susan Fogel

“Don’t make this story about me, I am not the story.” But in - fact,short. the It story is about is about his Luisdrive, Patri his and Villalobos for their support and ciodream, Copalcua his love Iztetzi, of Mexico, Patricio its arte for- encouragement over the years. He dos Santos, Jesus Beltran. Also pres- said that there were no words to de- Tequila and Mexican Art is the cul- ent was, Julio Villalobos the director scribe his gratitude. minationsanal crafts, of andeleven his yearsfamily. of La blood, Bella of the Todos Santos Cultural Cen- sweat, tears, and smart business. ter. Both men congratulated Patri- He reminded me that Todos San- cio, a man with his roots in Todos tos is a Pueblo Magico, and that the On March 11th, Patricio completed Santos, for his work in showcasing work of the cultural center and the his work and graduated with a de- artists and crafters of Mexico. That department of tourism have made gree in business administration. afternoon and evening, 10% of all his town the tourist Mecca that it On March 12th in Todos Santos, he sales and 100% of the special auc- is. To keep the town vibrant and oversaw the regrand opening of his tion were being donated to the cul- healthy, Patricio believes all busi- tural center. “It is the responsibility nesses must give back some of the several smaller shops in Todos San- of businesses to give back to their plenty they receive because of the flagship store, La Bella. Patricio has community and to set an example of efforts of these agencies, “I am set- - ting an example for my family, for toskets. and also sets up booths at the La my town, for younger people that Paz and Los Barriles Farmers Mar caring,”In turn Patricio,says Patricio. emotion and pride On hand for the ribbon cutting was swelling, his eyes glistening with the Delegado (like a mayor) of To- unshed tears, thanked both Beltran areEarly just at starting.” the Farmer’s Market on Tuesday and Saturday mornings Madero, the Copalcua brothers are carefully setting up in La Paz on

The ribbon cutting ceremony at La Bella Tequila & Mexican Art

The Baja Citizen 8 April/May 2017 The family of La Bella Tequila and Mexican Art. Photo courtesy of Horacio Peralta. their booth, carefully unwrapping glass and pottery, displaying Cuban Todos Santos standards. It includes Thea Tequila new Bar. La BellaStop in store and istry large a choc by- best advantage. They are intent on cigarstheir work, and flavoredbut have Tequilaa smile forto their any- huge undertaking. “This is no longer one passing and will stop unpacking olate-flavored Tequila. It is also a and setting up to answer questions. And while the other vendors pack just“This a bunchis a company of little shopswith a and vision, some a up and leave around noon, the of- booths at markets,” says Patricio.

Bella remains until late afternoon. heart, a mission.” - ficialThe booth ending is laid of theout marketbeautifully, day, and La ways had as its mission to buy and looks the same week after week--- Foundedsell beautiful in 2006, handicrafts La Bella made has alin clean, inviting, colorful, and profes- Mexico and offer good service and sional. Patricio is not always there, quality goods. Whether it is a beau- words in their mission statement, but the booth is always perfectly tifully macabre Catrina, martini Mexico.” Perseverance is one of the done. “It is about training and en- glasses, a tee shirt, sombrero, or pot- family, with Patricio at the head, has tery, the quality, colors and welcom- andaccomplished. that is what the Copalcua Iztetzi ing attitude of the family members couragement,” says Patricio. will lure you in, and keep you look- Susan Fogel is an observer of life ing. “We hope buy something beau- and writes to tell you what she sees. tiful, handmade, and indicative of Visit her blog mexicomusings.com

April/May 2017 9 The Baja Citizen - Letters to the Editor neley’s list of 10 Ways to WeCelebrate really enjoyedChristmas Don in

Thanks to you and your staff as always. As people that we went through the comment to me about your new cover (an additional Lalist Paz. and I didam proudas much to say as thanks) they always include a word about what a great we could. We didn’t lust- ily sing Christmas carols their articles, very interesting and professional, and the but we did go and visit jobnew you format… do with a real the winner entire magazine,Everyone lovesyour it.writers and the Christmas lights and Noche Buena Tom Beer at Tailhunter’s. My Look forward to working with you next year. enjoyedponche was a a real hit, too! To Susan Fogel Please keep up the lists. I have loved your articles in The Baja Citizen Kathy

your blog as well. for the five Felicidades. Just read online. (Thanks for the heads yearsJennifer I have been in La Paz and just signed up to read

up)John Well done… In addition to the articles, I enjoyed your Letter From the Publisher about living in La Paz.

Gari-Ellen. Our friends and family come and visit and The Baja Citizen has become a staple in our home, for them to go through. It is our go to guide weThank-you always givefor publishing them our such collection a wonderful of your tool magazine for all in La Paz. Carol of us to enjoy.

My day is brighter at work when the new edition of The Baja Citizen arrives. Seriously. It is the truth. It makes my day. Carlos

The Golf Club*at El Mogote 18 holes for US$60 great place to play 9 holes for US$35 Golf cart and clubs included Ask about our packages

Please call Marco at 612 105 3863 for more information

[email protected] www.mogotegol apaz.com *We are a non-pro t, member-supported organization dedicated to the preservation of our natural resources and to oering an aordable golf experience to the citizens and visitors of La Paz.

The Baja Citizen 10 April/May 2017 Quichu Isais, Maestra Extraordinaria By Carol Dyer

Today I had the privilege of speaking with my next-door neighbor, Quichu Isais, maestra extraordinaria , about her music career and the new mural painted by Colec- Doña Quichu Isais Mural. On Indpendencia between Guillermo Prieto and Serdan. tivo TOMATE , on Independencia street, depicting her tion. Next was a visit to the Mexican Embassy. They, too, image. Maestra Quichu and the word piano are synony- were preparing to close for vacation. While she waited, however, a young couple from Mexico came in. They other. mous here in La Paz. You can’t mention one without the We met at her music school. The walls are covered with werevisit family people and she return knew visitsfrom fromLa Paz! them. Quichu Already spent an theac- nextcomplished 16 years pianist, in Vienna, Quichu with never frequent stopped visits workingto La Paz on to and improving her technique. plaques and certificates of recognition, photographs, and the memorabilia of this amazing woman. Although money was coming from Mexico, there she needed an income, especially since the peso was los- Jesússign of Leonor slowing Isais, down, nicknamed with a current Quichu, roster was born of 30 in stu La- ing value at this time. Quichu tells the story of hearing Pazdents in between 1937. She the turned ages of 80four in and January 80. Born and into shows a mu no- about the Select City Club Hotel needing a pianist. This sical family, Quichu started playing the piano at the age is a huge complex with 458 guest rooms, four golf cours- of four. She tells the story of a neighbor having a big ra- es, and all the extras one would expect, including swim- dio which the neighborhood could listen to. She would ming pools, a spa, tennis courts, etc. The property also hear the music, then go inside the house and play what houses The Congress, a massive convention and meet- she heard. ing center. Quichu met with the director and assured him that she could play classical and popular music. He At the age of 40, without any kind of pre-planning and hired her on the spot. with four children, Quichu decided to continue her stud- Continues on page 32 ies in Europe. At that time an order of Italian priests ran contact with his counterpart in Innsbruck, Austria, and therequested Catholic he Church arrange here. for The Quichu padre to here study in La in Paz Europe. made

Dusseldorf, Germany. Her children were well situated; Not knowing where she would end up, Quichu flew to her husband had died, but she knewshe was her soon extended to learn La Paz family would tend to mattersthat at the home. priest However, making the arrangements had left Austria and gone to Africa on a mission. What to do? As it happened, a friend of her daughter’s was living in Vienna, and through this association, Qui- chu was invited to visit. The day after her arrival, she went to the music school in Vienna to enroll. They were closed for vaca-

Doña Quichu Isais

April/May 2017 11 The Baja Citizen One of our campaign strategies to raise public aware- - hing at Espiritu Santo is to convince people, restaurants ness and advocacy and bring to an end the illegal fis

and fish vendors to stop buying, selling and consuming “reef critical” parrotfish, that are killed by illegal fishing methods.Espiritu Santo Vibrant can’t reefs recover. can’t survive without grazers like parrotfish, and without healthy reefs, Archipelago

ESPIRITU SANTO CREATING THE NEXT ROC: CITIZEN DRIVEN VIGILANCE AT ARCHIPELAGO “CABO PULMO” For the last 25 years, hookah-diving pistoleros and en- IN THE SEA OF CORTEZ cerradores have stripped the reefs of most fish around ArchipelagoThis destruction Espiritu stopped Santo temporarily and in the Bay in 2009-2010 of La Paz. as

a result of the first citizen-driven vigilance in the Bay- of La Paz (Red de Observatorio Ciudadano, or “ROC”). In its first year of operation, ROC’s predecessor stop pednumber the killingof illegal of overboats 500 was tons reduced of reef from fish 29 in tothe 4. Bay of La Paz and around Archipelago Espiritu Santo and the

For the last 30 years the Sea of Cortez has seen its reefs and reef fisheries decline at an alarming rate. has stopped and reversed the declines. Twenty years There is only one place in the entire Sea of Cortez that- ters into their own hands, and with community-wide ago the citizens of Cabo Pulmo National Park took mat The ROC patrol boat does 24 hour vigilance patrols in the Bay the reef ecosystem by providing 24-hour vigilance to commitment,stop the destruction. stopped They the illegal reversed fishing the declinethat was and killing the of La Paz. The boat is run by ex-pistoleros who are used to running boats at night and know where the illegal boats fish. recovery in fish populations was spectacular. Nowhere In 2011 the illegal fishermen fought back getting- else has this happened in the Sea of Cortez. CONAPESCAtrols. (Mexico’s fisheries agency) to delay and stop prosecution of illegal fishing and not go out on pa That was until now. It’s currently happening in La Paz, Now in response, ROC last year made new formal agre- just 14 miles from the most beautiful island archipelago inTwo all thingsthe Sea must of Cortez happen - Archipelago for our campaign Espiritu to Santo. succeed: legal arm of the Mexican park service) to include go- ements with the NAVY, CONAPESCA and PROFEPA (the how important Espiritu Santo is to the economic health First, the campaign must convince the citizens of La Paz vernment officials on ROC’s patrol boat to help us stop- - galillegal boat fishing. was apprehended And the first withbust came600 kilos in October of small of reeflast of La Paz so they advocate for healthy reefs and reef fish year through a joint operation with ROC where an ille- populations.encerradores Second, by day. there must be citizen-driven vigi pounded by CONAPESCA. lance to stop the illegal fishing by pistoleros at night and fish from AES and the boat and all its contents were im

The Baja Citizen 12 April/May 2017 THE TEAM

We have the best people to run this campaign, led by

grassroots effort to provide permanent protection to Campaign Director Lucia Corral who helped lead the- ding beauty, Balandra Bay. one of La Paz’s premier public beach sites of outstan We have brought some of the best underwater photo-

campaign and in 4 months we have seen solid results on graphers and film-makers in the world to document our- hind our goal of recovering the reef ecosystem around Pistoleros caught at Archipelago Espiritu Santo by ROC night patrol in February. vigilanceArchipelago as wellEspiritu as getting Santo. citizens of La Paz to get be To learn more or to get involved, please like our FB page: Espiritu Santo Archipelago - The next Cabo Pulmo [email protected]

ROC vigilance patrol with Navy and PROFEPA personnel.

PARROTFISH-FREE RESTAURANTS

Educating supermarkets, vendors, restaurants and citi- - zens to stop buying, selling and consuming illegally cau ght “reef critical” parrotfish. -

Although it is not illegal to sell or buy parrotfish at mar ketsguns or or serve nets placedparrotfish over in reefs, restaurants, aided by they up toare 3 almostdivers alwaysusing a killedportable by illegalair compressor). fishing methods (e.g., with spear

Mega and Walmart) have committed to stop selling pa- To date, all 3 major Supermarkets in La Paz (Chedraui, - rrotfish in their La Paz stores, and we are now signing up restaurants in La Paz who pledge to stop serving parrotfish. The first 13 of 33 top restaurants on our list support our “ESPIRITU SANTO ES PARTE DE TI” cam paign and have committed to stop serving parrotfish. post the brochure you see on this page, along with an Each restaurant that pledges not to serve parrotfish will Tres Virgenes restaurant can be seen below with inter- viewsinterview already we willscheduled post online. with 11 The more first restaurants. one done with

April/May 2017 13 The Baja Citizen Tales of Caution from the (Real Estate) Trenches! By Heather Borquez

There are many stories, some true, some exaggerated, of value (in pesos) from the purchase price and the later sales price. If your property was registered for a value that they have high Capital Gains Tax bills to pay upon less than the actual purchase price and assuming your peoplethe sale buying of the property.property in Mexico and later finding out property increased in value, you could be facing a capital gains tax bill when you go to sell. Here are some of the most common dilemmas people run into which can affect a later sale. Sometimes this was done to save on property taxes, but as property tax is so inexpensive in Mexico already, it Most of these can be avoided or even solved after the wouldn´t have been much of a savings. It might have fact, with a little thought and attention. also saved on the seller´s capital gains tax and sometimes it also saved on transfer tax. However, none of 1. Title was registered using a lower price than these actions are legal nor recommended. Savings on a the actual purchase price. 2% land transfer tax or $50.00 US a year on property taxes doesn´t compare to paying 35% in capital gains This practice has pretty much been eliminated. How- tax down the road. ever, it did happen occasionally in the past. Check that your Fideicomiso does in fact reflect what If a property was registered for a lower amount than you actually paid for your property. If it doesn´t, you paid, you could be affected when it comes time to speak to a lawyer about possible tax mitigation strat- sell. Capital gains tax is calculated on the increase in egies that can be used to help reduce capital gains tax when you do go to sell. Or let us introduce you to one of our tax specialists to help you with your tax strategies.

2. Lot purchased and house built later but not added to Title (Fideicomiso)

This can happen when people buy a lot and later decide to build. The lot is registered correctly and property taxes are being paid. But the house didn´t get added to the Fideicomiso and so the Fideicomiso doesn´t ac-

taxes are not being paid at the full value of the property. curatelyThis is easy reflect to solve the valuewith constructionof the property documents. and property

If this might be you, you should get this sorted out before you put your property on the market. It is simple enough to solve with copies of your final construction permits, but you may wish to use a lawyer to help you correct your Title and to adjust your back property taxes.

3. Selling at a loss (in USD) but still facing a capital gains tax

This one is tough to swallow but there are some tax mitigation strategies out there that can help.

To explain Capital Gains tax, two things must be kept in mind.

The Baja Citizen 14 April/May 2017 a)Property is registered in Mexican pesos, therefore gains in value in pesoswill trigger a capital gains tax. b) The recent devaluation of the peso makes it harder to understand why a loss in dollars could still trigger a capital gains tax liability.

It works like this. In 2007 you bought a property for $200,000 USD when - istered correctly at 2,000,000 pesos. Over the years you thedecide peso to was sell 10 but pesos because to 1 USD.of a slowYour propertymarket you was can´t reg get more than 195,000 USD for it. That translates into 3,900,000 pesos at today´s approximate rate of 20 pesos

(3,900,000 – 2,000,000) pesos upon which capital gains totaxes 1 USD. are payableYikes! Now and you could have be asubstantial. peso gain of All $1,900,000 on top of your loss in dollars... 

There are several mitigation strategies for this, including declaring the property to be your principal residence (you need to be a Residente Permanente of Mex- ico) although it is very hard for foreigners to qualify for

facturas for 2. Use a good lawyer. thework principal done on residence your property exemption. to account You for could the increasehave an RFCin value. number and keep all official receipts/ Be sure to use a good closing attorney. A good lawyer - We are lucky. There are many good lawyers in La Paz. ary credits that can help reduce your taxes, which the you pay to a good closing attorney lawyer are worth notariesAs well there will take are intodepreciation account. strategies As with any and tax inflation or legal shouldtheir weight point in out gold. any flaws in the agreement. The fees information, please check with your lawyer or accountant.

If you suspect you will have significant capital gains Pleaseyour lawyer note thator your I am accountant. not a lawyer We and are not happy qualified to pro to- tax, please speak to a lawyer or accountant about givevide taxreferrals advice. to taxFor specialists specific questions, and lawyers please should refer you to possible mitigation strategies. Or let us introduce you wish. to one of our tax specialists. For other real estate needs, I would be more than happy to help you. Mexico are: Lastly, my two rules for buying happily and wisely in 1. Use a good realtor. Marine Surveyors of Baja California Rick Martin dba at their broker´s experience and length of stay in the Marina Beey, S de RL de CV Howmarket to findplace. one? Ask Ask for around…look referrals. Speak for experience. to people Lookwho National Association of Marine Surveyors - Certified Marine Surveyor Antonio Navarro #1420 Local Cell 044 (612) 131-7459 e/M. Albañez y Chiriyaqui Fron USA 011 52 1612 131 7459 Los Olivos CP 23040 haveIt isn´t bought the quality or sold of from the thatagent´s agent/broker. smile that is going to La Paz, BCS Mexico keep you out of trouble but their (and more importantly) [email protected] their broker´s involvement, experience and knowledge. www.marinesurveyorsofbajacalifornia.com

April/May 2017 15 The Baja Citizen

Sinaloa

Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez Nayarit Oaxaca Jalisco Colima Encinas

Heroes de Independencia Legaspi

Republica Av. Reforma Febrero de 5

Constitución

Nicolas Bravo Nicolas V. Gome Farias Pineda Manuel

Vicente Guerrero Allende Ignacio

Antonio Rosales Antonio Cuauhtemoc

Heroes del 47 Morelos Ocampo Melchor Lic. Benito Juarez Benito Lic.

16 de Septiembre Santos Degollado Guadalupe Victoria

I. Altamirano León de Marquez Gral. Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla Navarro Heroes Colegio Miltar Francisco King Rondero Sonora Juan María de Salvatierra Lic. Manuel Torres Iglesias the settlement company Ignacio Ramirez

5 de Mayo

Guilermo Prieto Independencia

Aquiles Serdán

Revolución de 1910

Francisco I. Madero

Belisario Dominguez

Malecón Artesanos Ignacio Zaragoza 21 de Agosto

Álvaro Obregón Belisario Dominguez Malecón

Agustin Arreola Esquerro

Abasolo

Topete

ESPIRITU SANTO AIRPORT ISLAND

SERPENTARIUM

Information Hospital Hotel Theater Restaurant Sinaloa

Josefa Ortiz de Dominguez Nayarit Oaxaca Jalisco Colima Encinas

Heroes de Independencia Legaspi

Republica Av. Reforma Febrero de 5

Constitución

Nicolas Bravo Nicolas V. Gome Farias Pineda Manuel

Vicente Guerrero Allende Ignacio

Antonio Rosales Antonio Cuauhtemoc

Heroes del 47 Morelos Ocampo Melchor Lic. Benito Juarez Benito Lic.

16 de Septiembre Santos Degollado Guadalupe Victoria

5 de Mayo

Guilermo Prieto Independencia

Aquiles Serdán

Revolución de 1910

Francisco I. Madero

Belisario Dominguez

Malecón Artesanos Ignacio Zaragoza 21 de Agosto Home of the Álvaro Obregón Belisario Dominguez Malecón World Famous Agustin Arreola Esquerro

Abasolo

Topete

ESPIRITU SANTO AIRPORT ISLAND SERPENTARIUM La Paz and Las Arenas Sportfishing Fleets 626 638 3383 (US) / 612 125 3311 (local) Mon/Tues/Thur/Fri 1:00 pm - 11:00 pm Sat/Sun 10:00 - 11:00 Closed Wednesdays!

www.Tailhunter-International.com Tailhunter Restaurant Information Hospital Hotel Theater Restaurant 755 Paseo Alvaro Obregon, between Salvatierra and Torre Iglesias On the malecon of La Paz, Baja California Sur : Expats are a Bunch of Complainers. - Ramblings pens everywhere I shop – from Nor- By Judy Ristity dstromslip, even to Target.if you’ve It’s used called it.” Custom It hap- er Service. We complain because we expect action and get it. Expats are a bunch of complain- oblivious to what had happened? ers. Some of us complain in private; Was her smile fake; I couldn’t tell. Don’t know how to complain and some gripe in public and don’tbother Meanwhile, I looked at the mea- get results back home? Buy, “How to lower our voices. We’re all guilty, ger amount of loose tea that barely - and although we know better, it stained the hot water in my cup. sumer Guide to Getting REFUNDS, seems we can’t help ourselves. I wanted to complain and I might to Complain: The ESSENTIAL Con have, but after hearing Sally’s tirade of Complaining: Canada’s Consumer I restrained myself. Redress and RESULTS!”or “The Art bakery. Alice and I ordered tea; Sal- Ilyasked joined for Alice a Cappuccino. and Sally at Shetook a local Adapting to the differences betwe- ActionIs there, Guide.” “The Art of Getting Action one lookat the cup placed in front of encultures is hard. I’ve noticed - her and yelled at the server, “Don’t that Mexicans rarely complain. Not - you know the difference between about barking dogs, loud music, dog incause Mexico we NEED without that Insulting advice. the Lo - poop on the malecon, slow waiters, cals?” It’s would be a best seller be cino is served in a smaller cup. It’s and items that appear sporadically Here’s an example: Alex and I sleep a Cappuccino and a Latte? Cappuc in grocery stores. Why? Why don’t in our front bedroom so Alex can they grumble? Why are we so nega- stretch out (it has a king bed), the 1/3 espresso, 1/3 steamed milk and 1/3The foam.”waitress said, “Lo siento, Se- One day, an idea hit me. alone, we awake at 6:15. But we’re ñora tive? For years I tried to figure it out. backnever bedroomleft alone, hasnot adouble.even on LeftSat- while the waitress was removing I had it backwards. Expats aren’t urday or Sunday. Every morning the offending. I will make cup, another Sally muttered,one.” And negative; they’re hopeful. Think at 5:15 the guard across the street “These people don’t even know how about it. Complain and things get starts whistling. Then at 5:30 I hear - clattering over the cobble-stone felt myself blanch and looked at the er cup of coffee, although it looked sidewalk which grows louder as the to make a proper cup of coffee.” I fixed. Sally criticized and got anoth Sweeper arrives pulling his orange cart. The sweeper and guard talk floor.Alice I smiledsaid nothing. when she received strangely like the first. the tea infusion set-up and happily and then the broom begins to swish. dunked the stainless steel mesh Inthe my States 2010 everything TBC article, is returnable“The Land andBy this laugh time for I’m five fully or awake. ten minutes into her cup of hot water. Was she ofand Return refundable Anything”, even without I claimed, a sales “In Uncharacteristically, a few Sundays ago we were up and on our front patio drinking coffee before the

hush. Then we heard this ghastly sweeperbut vaguely arrived. familiar We sound. enjoyed Alex the leapt up, rushed across the street waving his arms and yelling, “No, no! Personas dormir

couldn’t hear him because” (Alex speaks the leaf in infinitives).blower had Ofrendered course, himthe deaf.Thesweeper guard said, “Essutrabajo. Estatraba- jondo movingbut couldn’t hear, so he yelled.” again, Alex saw“No, thepersonas guard’s dormir! mouth My priorities quickly shifted – whistling at 5:30 wasnow acceptable;” leaf blowing wasn’t. We wanted to

Continues on page 32

The Baja Citizen 20 April/May 2017 When in Mexico...

by Nadine York

When in Mexico, it follows that you speak Spanish, right? But maybe you don’t. Maybe you’ve never been languages. There’s hope! It’s called El Nopal – not the outcactus, of yourthe language native country,school. Only or you’re here for just a short lousy time? with Why bother, you say? I’ll tell you why. Because it’s fun! Maybe fun in a sort of masochistic way, like putting yourself in kindergarten again. But, hey, kindergarten was fun, wasn’t it?

My husband Pete and I decided last year to improve our un poquito de espanol. So we called El Nopal. The next day we met with owners Marta and Juan in the school’s open courtyard – which serves a multitude of purposes, from classes for children to chatting over a cup of coffee with other classmates. Marta and Juan look like they are barely out of school themselves. Then we discovered cha, a wiener dog, that four of the children running around on break were he also became a hit theirs. with the kids.

The interview was relaxed, informal, and simple. Mar- We started a few ta and Juan told us about the school, and then Marta days later with two started asking questions in Spanish – simple questions, one-hour classes like what is your name? and where are you from? Instant a week: one with - Marta and one with bled and bumbled from my mouth. Enough said. Dulce. It was a good brain freeze. Vaguely Spanish-sounding words stum pace for me to ab- Marta, Juan and the gang from El Nopal. sorb what we were learning. Pete and I were in a group weren’t hopeless. “When do you want to start?” Marta asked. I guess we progress through the basics at a nice clip. class – although it was just the two of us – so we could small dog and he’s nervous about being left alone. Can “As soon as we can,” I said, “but one question: we have a Letwas me teaching clarify usthat the Spanish use of didthe notidiomatic then, andphrase still tenerdoes weMarta bring grinned. him?” First vocabulary word – consentido – not,que, roll off my tongue in fluid sentences. One day Marta to go to the dentist; visit my friend in the hospital; buy became a student (tuition free); and being a little salchi- which translates to English as “to have to.” I have spoiled. And, yes, we could bring him. So Dozer, too, has to do – he, she, I, we, they, you – and each pronoun myrequires mother a different some flowers. form of So the many verb. things that everyone

So there I sat that day, creating simple sentences one

a moment, I lifted up out of my own tortured brain, wordand wondered at time, at what the slowestit might speedbe like imaginable. for Marta, aFor native just

speaker,“Marta, I toam listen so sorry. to us It pulverize must be tortureher language. for you to listen

Marta, Juan and the gang from El Nopal. to us struggling to say such simple things!”Continues on page 34

April/May 2017 21 The Baja Citizen 10 Good Reads While Chilling Out on a Baja Beach by Donneley McCann

Heading out to the beach this spring break? Here is a list of some books to take with you that will let you relax and learn more about Mexico and her rich culture all at the same time. (The books listed are in no particular order.)

De Mente) #1 There’s a Word for It in Mexico (by Boyé Lafayette Have you ever wondered about certain words or phrase used all the time here? With There’s a Word for It in Mex- ico, you can stop wondering. Unlike a dictionary, this book not only gives you the Spanish word or phrase and the English translation, it also gives you usage and the range from laugh-out-loud funny to poignant. The best the Spanish language and the Mexican culture, read this culturalbook. significance. For a better understanding of both all-around book on the Baja California peninsula.

#4 Baja Legends (by Greg Nieman) - sula: its indigenous people, its founding fathers, its pi- #2Although The People’s slightly Guide outdated to Mexico in places, (by Carl this Franz) book is so Enjoyrates, and learning more! a little about the history of the penin popular it is in its seventh printing. A classic.

#3 Almost an Island (by Bruce Berger) #5 The Labyrinth of Solitude (by Octavio Paz) - This collection of essays by award-winning author Bruce The Labyrinth of Solitude is a beautifully writ- Berger is both informative and well written. The essays Longten series acknowledged of essays onas Mexico’sone of Mexico’s quest for foremost identity. writ One ers,of the Paz’s most highly recommended books for a true look at Mexico and its culture.

#6A pretty The Lifebig bookand Times to stuff of into Mexico your (by beach Earl bag, Shorris) but worth it. In this wonderful narrative, Mexico – with its 3,000

The Baja Citizen 22 April/May 2017 #9 The Pearl (by John Steinbeck)

This is Steinbeck’s retelling of the

legend held in common by all the in- Bajadigenous California peoples legend of the of thepeninsula. pearl, a This narrative of a time when pearls

is both stunning prose and a heart- werewrenching abundant story. in If the you Sea haven’t of Cortez yet read it, now’s the time!

- los Fuentes) #10 The Years with Laura Díaz (Car Carlos Fuentes is considered to be one of Mexico’s greatest authors, and this novel will make you understand why. It follows the life of the heroine from 1905 to 1978, giving years of history – is spoken of as if you a taste of Mexico’s history along it were a person and not a country. the way.

#7 Mexico - Culture Smart! (by Guy I am certain there are other equally Mavor) interesting and informative books, but consider this a start to under- With this guide to the manners, eti- standing and appreciating this won- quette, and customs of Mexico, you derful country. Several titles can be can visit, travel, or live here with found at Allende Books on Indepen- avoid some of the truly embarrass- confidence.ing cultural Perhapsfaux pas it so will many help of you us dencia in La Paz. Happy reading! have endured.

#8 A Brief History of Mexico (by

LynnKnowing V. Foster) something about a country’s history goes a long way towards helping to understand its culture. For anyone who would like to know more about Mexico’s history – without carting around a 300-lb scholarly tome – this is the perfect book. It gives you enough information to have some knowledge of the country’s history without being dry or getting bogged down in minutiae.

April/May 2017 23 The Baja Citizen Downtown La Paz Just Got a Lot Brighter

TBC

resentation of the Ciudad Mural La Paz, Thewhere downtown 30 collective area murals of the city have of brightened La Paz has upbeen the filled city Two months be- with thecolor, help thanks of 27 tonational the project artists. historyfore the of Laartists Paz. descended onto Ciudad Mural La Paz Colectivo Tomate, an independent Mexi- team from Colec- can group of artists. Colectivo was organized Tomate has by been the nonprofit working Lativo Paz, Tomate an advance ar- organization Mexico, including Puebla and Monterrey. They are using - oncreative mural ideas projects to beautify for the pastcities few and years celebrating in cities histori across- rivedceive topermission La Paz to cal identities. findto paint walls murals and reon the streets of Inde- Colectivo Tomate believes that cities throughout Mexi- co can be improved through art. With pendencia, Melchor Ocampo, Ignacio Zaragoza, Mijares, colorful facades, MutualismoOnce the artists and Lerdoarrived, de theyTejada, quickly among collected others. narra- smiling faces and tives of the city from different sectors of the city includ- picturesque land- scapes, storied walls link communities as ing non-profit groups, youth groups, restaurateurs and a collective effort localOne of fisherman. the artists participating in the Ciudad Mural La towards sharing the Paz identity of a community. The beauti- over was 300 Fernando applicants Martinez, after he originally sent in fromhis resume the State and of ful murals scattered Mexico.samples Martinez,of his work a freelanceto Colectivo artist, Tomate was. selected from across downtown Fernando Martinez painting a mural along Indepencencia in La Paz. are no doubt a rep- “There are 27 of us from around the country. I saw a call for artists and sent in my work to Colectivo Tomate. They brought us

few weeks ago hereand we to have La Paz been a to visit Espiritu Santo Island, Bal- andra beach and other places rep-

resentativefor the environ of La- Pazment to and get culture a feel of the area. We have spent time with local groups to listen to sto-

ries.”

Continues on page 33

The Baja Citizen 24 April/May 2017 Día de los Niños: California Mia

TBC Eat Enjoy Relax Juices Smoothies Shakes This year in Mexico, Breakfast/Combo Chilaquiles (Children’s Day) is Urbana Kitchen & Juice Hotcakes Molletes Díacelebrated de los in NiñosApril. Croissants Waf es In light of that, it Eggs any style seems like a good French toast time to introduce Belisario Dominguez between 16 de Septiembre and Independencia / Downtown La Paz (in front of Teatro Juarez) Monday to Friday 8am to 4pm / Saturday and Sunday 8am to 2pm / Closed Wednesdays / 612 122 5363 a 10-year-old La Pazand girl,mention California some Miaof her Stell accomplish Alvarez,- ments.

California Mia was California Mia bornelementary right here school, in La she Paz, has to already a multicultural participated family. in pho She- enjoystography drawing contests, and includingphotography. Fotosensible. Although still California only in is part of the community photography collective NOS- otros Fotógrafos. This is a group of children between the ages of 10 and 15 who are learning to us photography as a means of expression and communication.

She recently had the honor to participate, along with outstanding local and international personalities, in the photography exhibit The Aquarium of the World. The inauguration in Mexico City in March. California, accom- event,panied organized by her mother by Colectivo and grandmother, Internacional attended Pax, had the its opening. It was her fourth participation in a collective photography exhibit.

Kudos, California Mia! Keep up the great work!

April/May 2017 25 The Baja Citizen Thank-You to Those Who Participated in the El Mogote Fundraiser in Belgium for Golf Club Tournament the Children of FANLAP

TBC TBC

Thank-you to all those who participated in the golf tournament held on March 4th of this year. The golf tour- We’d like to thank Laurens Joly and his wife, Ine, from Belgium.also to celebrate Last spring-summer their second weddingthey had anniversary.a fundraiser for At namentearly-morning was to rain,benefit we thewere children lucky toand have adolescents a beautiful of the childrenfundraiser, of theyFANLAP showed in their their hometown, friends and which fans waspic- FANLAPday for golf. (FundaciónAyudaNiños La Paz, A.C.) After an tures and videos of the children of our dining room and our scholarship students. They were able to accumu- Thank-you to Marco Antonio Castillo of El Mogote Golf late $2,000 US worth of donations!!

- taurants:Club and Zoe, to Nancy Nim, ilRustico Fitzmorris and for Big all Ruby’s. the work They before each and during the tournament. Please patronize the res donated a dinner for two, which were used as prizes. -

A special thank you to Jesus Valdez (Chuy), who donat edWe a received two-night enough stay at money Buena to Vista send hotel 8 students in Los toBarriles. school for one year. This will be for the 2017-2018 school year.

FANLAP kids at the comedor After talking with those who donated, it was decided the best use of the funds would to purchase food and items necessary for our lunch program. Then we had the problem of, “How do we get the funds into the FAN-

funds would have to be changed to U.S. dollars and then Some of FANLAP’s scholarship students LAPchanged account?” to pesos, Since both the having donations an exchange were in fee. euros, So they the

decidedSo until tothe get total the ismoney spent, using they theiraccompany debit/credit the person card. who does the buying and delivery of the food to our dining room, and pay the charges with their card. No fee, and the $2,000 dollars all go to the children.

thank you to Billy Delmer who told them of our work. Thank-you so much, Laurens and Ine, and a special

The FANLAP Lunch Program

The Baja Citizen 26 April/May 2017 Black Skimmers of the La Paz Tidal Flats By Thomas Brown

Bahia De La Paz, for the most part, is quite shallow, with those shallow Another interesting fact, the babies areas being lined with mangroves young,are born who with are bothflying bills after the 25 samedays. for nearly 15 miles. It is host to a length. The lower bill growing as tremendous variety and quantity they mature. of waders, shorebirds and peeps. One of the down sides to skimming birds in this area, I have come to en- In my last five years photographing the occasional unseen rock or rise area and the birds that live there. As alongin the in bottom. the shallows, In the just three has hours to be joyI was the getting amazingly set easyup in access a makeshift to this I spent watching them feed back blind that I have used there before, I and forth, I saw three or four times where they almost took a header. - The head and neck snaps down was stunned. For the first time since quickly, and off they go, skimming skimmedI have been right around by me! La Paz, a beau again. tiful black skimmer did just that, These beautiful black skimmers are and white birds tend to live near Since they do not really rely on sight Theseshallow very water easily bays recognized and inlets. blackThey have developed a unique, knife like just another of the wonderful birds lower bill that they drop into the to find the fish, a majority of their that we have right here in La Paz, so - fishingsurface. activity is done at dark when getIf you out questions there and about enjoy thesethem. or any the small bait fish are closer to the other birds, please feel free to con- waterquickly while snap flying it shut, along. gather Upon up feel the I really wasn’t able to get any de- tact me at FocusOnFeathers@hot- ing the bill strike a small fish, they cent photos of the black skimmers mail.com. at rest, which they were doing way victim and swallow it on the fly. out at the end of a secluded sand spit. They rest much like terns and seagulls but with their entire head,

resting on the ground. and oversized bill stretched out and Nesting is also done on the open sand, in a shallow depression. They lay from two to seveneggs, usually three to four. Both parents feed the Photos courtesy of Thomas Brown.

April/May 2017 27 The Baja Citizen Empowering Local Youth in Baja

TBC

EPI activities for kids at Conquista Agraria. is a conservation education non- ing to the conservation of their en- Ecology Project International (EPI)- vironment. The outdoor classroom volving young people from Mexico, provides them with tools and skills profit like no other in the world, in they need to feel empowered to take U.S. in hands-on science and conser- an active role in conservation and Belize, Costa Rica, Ecuador and the invites them to develop sustainable and their habitat. Testing water in the Sea of Cortez. solutions to the environmental is- vation projects that protect species empowering the next generation of sues that affect their community. Nearly 30,000 students have partic- conservation leaders. - ally in the past 17 years, with more ipatedthan 70% in their of those field participantsprograms glob be- Throughoutactivities, workshops, the years, festivals 12,000 Bajaand ing under-served local youth living WhatEstablished has EPI in done 2005, in EPI Baja? Mexico cre- citizenscourses; have3,000 taken students part from in EPI’s 60 - ates opportunities for local students ect sites. The impact of these cours- to explore the great wonders of the programs; and 900 kids have been ines communitiesis profound adjacenton both to local the projand peninsula while learning about the schoolsinvolved havein their participated Eco-club inactivi field- US students, establishing a lifelong ecology of our coastal and marine ties – with the famous ‘Californios commitment to conservation, and ecosystems. Whether studying ma- Verdes’. These longlasting activities rine invertebrates on Espiritu Santo Island, working support of individuals contribut- alongside whale areing toonly the possible education with for the the financial future. scientists in the If you would like to support EPI’s

Turtle research- Seaers ofin Cortez, Magbay, Sea workFor more in Baja, information please donate about today.EPI vis - or monitoring it , Whale Sharks in look them up as EPI México on Face- - book,www.ecologyproject.org/mexico Twitter, Instagram, or visit ticipants are ac- their campus located on Guillermo Latively Paz contribut Bay, par- Prieto 1038, between Encinas and Navarro. Telephone: 165 65 61 Ext 12.

Instructor showing the results of the marine invertebrate census in Espiritu Santo Island.

The Baja Citizen 28 April/May 2017 English for Tourism at Cobach 11 in La Paz

TBC

Interesting and fun activities under the principle of picking up dishes and getting learning while having fun are being used to help stu- the check paid for. All of this done within the boundaries of the school - with the clock dents at the high school Cobach 11 in La Paz to develop ticking. With no room for “realAll students world” Englishat Cobach language 11 who skills. are enrolled in the pro- mistakes, this competition is gram Servicios Turísticos or Tourist Services as part of quite a challenge for the dif- their school training take part in English classes. This ferent teams, and of course, important training program helps students not only all of them eager to win. acquire important tools in order to face the working Therefore, everybody´s per- world in tourism successfully, but to enhance their Eng- formance improves. At the lish language abilities as well. end of the competition, the Ibarra The program also promotes per- Escobar always asks the partici- formance improvement through pants if while doing the challenge activities that involve students in they felt like a waiter in a crowded a variety of different competitions restaurant. The answer is an ex- with some taking place against hausting and unanimous yes! classmates and other times com- peting against other educational There are other activities in the institutions. training program used to improve English language. One of them is The main purpose is to improve the conversational practice on the students´ performance in English malecón language by giving them an in- approach an American, Canadian centive. For example, if a student or any English-speakingof La Paz where students tourist Continues on page 34 . Cobach 11 Eng- winslish teacher a competition, Ramón he/sheIbarra mayEscobar, receive who a prizehas 15 or yearsextra creditsexperience in a inparticular teaching, English creates subject all these activities to help students learn English while having fun.

A good example of these competitions is the tradition- among themselves by taking orders, serving drinks, al “waiters race” where groups of students compete

April/May 2017 29 The Baja Citizen Get Ready for May Days

TBC Friday, May 5th – Cinco de Mayo May is one of the busier holiday months of the year in Mexico, with a mountain of special days to consider if It seems 5 de Mayo has become a bigger holiday in the you either work or study here. Please take into account US than here in Mexico. It commemorates the battle in Puebla of 1862 in which the Mexican army defeated the falls this year on Monday so on a Wednesday or 5 de French. theseMayo fallingdates before on a Sunday. making any major plans. Labor Day

Wednesday, May 10th – Mother’s Day

This holiday is HUGE here in Mexico. Mothers Day is Monday,This is a May national 1st – Laborholiday Day in Mexico. Banks will be a long weekend in Mexico so many people will be travel- celebratedsecond Sunday on theof May. fixed In day Mexico, of May May 10th 10th inis celebrated Mexico as closed.ling and Most on the government beaches. offices are closed. This will be opposed to Mothers Day in US/Canada that falls on the to honor them. Families usually attend special mass at with children giving their Moms flowers and other gifts Wednesday, May 3rd – head to Mom’s favorite restaurant for lunch or dinner. Day of the Holy Cross churchSchools thatoften are celebrate organized the for 10 ththe with day Mothers and afterwards, Day fes-

Construction workers Moms usually get the day off of work as well. decorate crosses with tivals and organize dances or plays to celebrate Mom.

them on buildings un- Monday, May 15 – Teacher’s Day flowersder construction. and mount Teachers usually get the day off of school and celebrate The cross on top of with a breakfast date with fellow teachers. Classes are the construction site. usually cancelled.

The Baja Citizen 30 April/May 2017 April 30th – Children’s Day

My kids also wanted me to let you folks know that April 30th in Mexico is also a very important date. El Dia del really is something special for children 12 and under. NiñoThe main or Children’s focus is on Day the is kids celebrated and making on this them day feel and spe it- cial.

places around the world, to honor children globally. In Children’s Day is recognized on various days in many and children look forward to a holiday all their own Mexico,with fun, Children’s gifts and special Day is events. always filled with activities,

Many schools celebrate the day and parents are invited. Of course, there are usually no classes on Children’s school calendar. Day itself, even though it is not an official holiday in the

Enjoy the extremely busy first half of May!

April/May 2017 31 The Baja Citizen Quichu Isais, Ramblings Maestra Extraordinaria Continues from page 20 Continues from page 11 complain to someone in charge, but imagined noth- One day Quichi found a man sitting and playing her ing would change and feared the sweeper’sretaliation. piano. He wasn’t very good and she told him so, say- Instead,wetried negotiating, but couldn’t communicate; ing that his left hand did not know what the right hand he spoke pace o; was doing. She then noticed some Russian men stand- He smiled while I begged that he start sweeping on the ing around and inquired as to the piano player’s iden- malecon side ñof IMSS I, Americanized, instead of on second-year Madero where Spanish. we tity. The man was Mikhail Gorbachev! There was also and our neighbors live. He nodded and smiled. Relieved, an Arab sheikh who came every year and took over the we shook his hand. Nothing has changed. 15 children. Quichu taught piano to the children. It took $1,000 U.S. to solve the problem. Carpenters con- whole complex for two months with his five wives and verted our double-bed into a queen. We bought a new mattress and sheets.The whistling,blowing and sweep- opened her music school in 1998. She has taught hun- ing continuesbutwe sleep through it, happy in our back Quichu returned to La Paz after 16 years abroad, and bedroom. But what if our Mexican neighbors don’t have never too old to learn, she believes. Quichu currently quiet back bedrooms? They’ve never complained to us dredsowns aboutof people, 25 pianos, young andincluding old, over one the that years. is 250 You years are about noise – not even our own. old. One of the pianos is identical to the one played by

Daily around 6:30 a.m. Alex and I drink coffee on our Most of them are in a storage room at the school. It is sheltered back balcony. We talk, we laugh. We’ve been Mozart,her dream and to another open a ismusic similar museum to that oneused day. by Beethoven. known to argue. Our neighbors live twelve feet away. Salud. Following a mini-concert, Quichu and I walked down the close we live. Do they think we’re rude, loud Americans? street to view the mural. I asked her how she felt about Once,They’re the always mother friendly sneezed. butlike I said, most “ Mexicans,” That’s they’re how it. Quichu says it is exciting because she never thought polite and avoid confrontation.

she would appear on the streets of La Paz. But I’m not quite so polite;I’m getting braver. When

- expatscomplain, I speak up and say, “Yeah, but on the asother often, hand, but in that’s La Paz okay. we Ihave don’t (I want insert to something swallow a posidou- tiveble-shot about of Mexico).”I some else’s may poisonous not get invited complaints out for with coffee my cappuccino (or latte).

The plaque is in Spanish, but translated to English it Does it sound like I’m complaining about expats? If so, I’m merely being optimistic; I’m hoping we can change are representative icons for the community. Such is the and be more polite while weappreciate being guests in reads, “In the city of La Paz, Baja California Sur, there has been a cornerstone in the training of regional mu- case for Señora Quichu, pianist with all her heart, who wonderful, crazy and unpredictable La Paz. with her piano, invoking the nostalgia and harmony of IMPORTANT LA PAZ PHONE NUMBERS sicians.music, as In well this aswork, highlighting Facte, Señora the talent Quichu of the is portrayed people of

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The Baja Citizen 32 April/May 2017 Downtown La Paz Just Got a Lot Brighter Continues from page 24 Inspired by local people and the area quickly became alive with col- natural, unspoiled environment or. And people have become excit- ed and attentive. The murals have his fellow artists spent two weeks already become hot tourist sites. oftaking desert in all and of sea,what Martinez they learned and transformed those ideas into aboutworks Laof Pazart. andThat its art people. has captiThey- Hopefully,something thepositive new and murals construc in La- Paztive willfor theinspire city. more Perhaps people the to mu do- rals could become the detonator of vated the attention of the citizens more improvements to the capital of La Paz and tourists alike. “I tried to use ideas for me that are area that so badly needs a revival. of Baja California Sur’s downtown - The purpose of the Ciudad Mural significantcluding the ofpericu, La Paz. the Many whale, things cac- La Paz are representative of La Paz, in spaces for interaction between stories. I wanted to transform this people through project the was collective to generate cre- tus,knowledge the local of fishermanthe area into and my their art ation of murals that tell the stories of the community. That mission has been accomplished. to tell a story,” Martinez explained. Using hundreds of liters of paint As there is no better way to move donated by sponsor Comex, the 4th largest paint manu- people together, than through art. facturer in North America, the streets of the downtown

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Alvaro Obregon 460-C, La Paz, B.C.S., 23000, Mexico (612) 123-4888 / [email protected]

April/May 2017 33 The Baja Citizen English for Tourism at Cobach 11 in La Paz When in Mexico... Continues from page 29 Continues from page 21

with the intention of having a real English conversation. Marta burst into laughter. The idea of torture had never The groups are also taken by Ibarra Escobar to local ho- entered her mind. And I understand, because when a non-native English speaker stumbles over grammar or mispronounces a word, I still know what they’re saying. telsUseful and learning restaurant activities to do “real in theworld” real research. world are ones The point about learning another language isn’t about where the student is able to take what they have learned in a text book or classroom and use it in another con- will eventually achieve those. The real essence of learn- speed,ing a language or perfection, is a willingness or fluency to –try though – to try I canto commu hope -I - nicate – in a language not your own, in a country where text. La Paz is the perfect place for students to go use- theirtive, constructive, newly learned authentic skills in andthe cooperativefield of tourism. ways. Mean - ingful activities in the field help students engage in ac thattive speakers,language tois offernative. your How willingness. humbling to find yourself All this would not be possible without the talented and in kindergarten again. Yet what an act of respect to na excellent groups of students who have chosen Servicios Turísticos as their training program at the high school El Nopal is a comfortable and safe space to begin, to

students but the students also give back to their teach- Spanish. It’s a community that opens its doors to all Cobachers, usually 11 in without La Paz. even Teachers knowing! give theirSometimes best to good,their continue,ages: the childrento refine, with and/or brains to deepen quick to your learn, journey and gray- into sometime bad but from every experience, there is al- headed oldies like myself whose brains plod and stutter. It offers group and individual classes on site, and Sky- made. pe classes if you want to continue learning back home. ways significant learning and lovely memories to be

They’re even flexible enough to include dogs. - rent instructor, Pete and I have continued to learn new Thiswords, year phrases, under and the idioms. fine tutelage I even of have Mayra, a little our past cur tense to add to my repertoire. Thanks to El Nopal, I have - tive Spanish speakers – on the malecón, in the grocery morestore, confidenceor at the beach. to get Whenout there I see and them torture smile, other I count na myself lucky to have made another friend.

Photos courtesy of Pete White.

The Baja Citizen 34 April/May 2017

Emergency Services and Pharmacy Hospital / Pharmacy / Operating Room / Radiology / Lab Analysis Clinic / Tomography / Mastography / 3D and 4D Ultrasound / Hemodialysis / Hemodynamics

Anesthesia Nutrition Retina Specialist/Corneal Transplant Dr. José Miguel Olvera Macías Lic. Ismene Alejandra Meléndrez Cota Dr. Isaac Mauricio Zúñiga González Angiology and Vascular Surgery Obstetrics and Gynecology Traumatology and Orthopedics Dr. Angel Eduardo Sánchez Gil Dr. Ignacio Alfredo Delgado González Dr. Francisco Alfonso Camarena Sarabia Dr. Omar Ponce de León García Odontology Dr. José Guillermo Sánchez Huitron Cardiology Dr. Inés Murillo Amador Dr. Rafael E. Gastelum Quintero Dr. Manuel Olivares Aquino Oncology Dr. Luis Ángel de La Toba Fonseca Dr. Maria Isabel Sánchez Ramírez Dr. Andrés Mares Contreras Urology Chemist/Laboratory Surgical Oncology Dr. Jorge Alberto Beltrán Minjares Ma. Clotilde García Soberanes Dr. Napoleón Rodríguez Gudiel Dermatology Ophthalmology/ Retina Dr. Karina Ramos Ramos Dr. Fausto Miguel Lechuga Ortiz Ear, Nose & Throat Pathology Dr. Saúl Angulo Santos Dr. Francisco Aguilar Von Borstel Emergency Services Endocrinology Pediatrics General Medicine Dr. Robert Andrik Cruz Morales Dr. José Rodrigo Cariño Orozco Dr. Francisco Javier Melo Palacios Dr. Patricia Guluarte Ruiz Pediatric Ear, Nose & Throat Dr. Ignacio Alfredo Delgado Moreno Endoscopy Dr. José Manuel Peñaloza González Dr. José Andrés Herrera Colmenero Dr. Rosa Margarita Chiapa Cortés Pediatrics/ Neonatology Dr. Mario Castilla Garza General Medicine Dr. Enrique A. Barroso Ibarra Dr. Nuria Castro García Dr. José Andres Herrera Colmenero Pediatrics/ Neurology Dr. Sergio Enrique Carrillo Isais Dr. Mario Castilla Garza Dra. Alysophia Chrystel Hernández Dr. Veronica Echenique Chavez General Surgeon/ Gastroenterology Cordova Dr. Jesús Ernesto Winkler Rodriguez Dr. José Antonio Martínez Salcedo Pediatric Odontology Dr. Ramón Gaxiola Robles Dr. Ricardo Flores Nannum Dr. Kydzya Lyz Rangel Magdaleno Dr. Luis Alejandro Castro Lugo Dr. Rafael González Molina Pediatric Surgeon Dr. Carlos Alberto Beltrán Salgado Dr. Enrique Guzmán Quezada Dr. David Mejía Camacho Dr. Elmer Tarazón Moreno Pneumology Internal Medicine Dr. Sergio Romero Díaz PHONE: 612 124 04 00 - 08 Dr. Buenaventura Díaz López Radiology FAX: 612 124 04 09 Nephrology Dr. Carlos E. Pozo Juárez Dr. Edgar Contla Jaime Dr. Ana María Guzmán Palacios CARRETERA AL NORTE KM 4.5 Y DELFINES Dr. María Eugenia Tapia Avilés NO. 110, FRACC. FIDEPAZ, LA PAZ, B.C.S. Dr. Víctor Gatica Ensaldo