w The Romantic GEMüTLICHKEIT Road The Travel Letter for , Austria & Switzerland

ermany’s Romantic Road is a historic and mostly scenic route Gthat extends 410 km (255 miles) Auf Wiedersehen between Würzburg and the vineyards Everything has to come to an end, issues—January 1993 to February of the Main River valley in the north, sometime. L. Frank Baum, The Marvelous 2014; some 1.7 million words of travel to the picturesque town of Füssen and Land of Oz advice. The back issue archive will the Bavarian Alps in the south. Desig- Dear Subscriber: be available to the general public at a nated as Germany’s first official tour- still-to-be-determined fee schedule). ist route in 1900, it was renamed the After 27 years and two months, Romantische Strasse We started in January of 1987 at by Sharon Hudgins Gemütlichkeit, The Travel Letter for Ger- (Romantic Road) in many, Austria & Switzerland, is fertig, $39, then raised the price in 1989 to 1950. Today it’s Germany’s best known finished. This is the final issue. I wish it $47, and then in 1991 went to $49 where it stayed until 2009 when we holiday route and one of the country’s could continue but, for a variety of rea- priced the regular-mail, printed edi- most popular destinations. sons, it cannot. Since by Bob Bestor tion at $69 but offered an electronic 2001, the number of While the route’s larger cities are version for $49. Unwilling to pay subscribers has dropped by more than worthy destinations themselves, de- the extra $20 or accept an electronic 80-percent and it is no longer a profit- serving of multiple day visits, several version, many subscribers took their able enterprise. (We will continue with small towns and villages in between leave. We had waited too long to our travel services such as car rental, harbor hidden treasures of their own. raise the price. Far too many read- rail, cruise, etc., and, of course, the Among the delights of traveling the ers rejected the 41-percent increase. Gemut.com website. The outstanding Romantic Road is meandering from one Between 1991 and 2009 all costs—es- German Life Magazine, which covers historic town to the next, enjoying the pecially our two major ones, travel travel and culture in Germany, Austria bucolic scenery and stopping to visit and postage, skyrocketed. From ‘91 and Switzerland, has acquired our this or that tiny museum, and eating to ‘01 we were able to keep the price subscriber list and will fulfill the re- local specialties at a country inn. at $49 by adding new subscribers. mainder of your subscription. In addi- Since Gemütlichkeit has already cov- Then three things happened: 9/11, ered the major cities in detail—Würz- tion, you will be provided free lifetime direct-mail ceased to be a viable mar- burg (August, ‘02), Rothenburg (this online access to the archive of 253 back Continued on page 2… issue), (February, 00), Mu- nich (August, ‘08)—here are highlights of other attractions along the route, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber traveling from north to south, including othenburg is the jewel in There are ample reasons why many personal favorites: the crown of Germany’s Rothenburg attracts so many visi- l : One of the R Romantic Road. A picture- tors from around the globe. Found- first stops on the Romantic Road south postcard medieval town completely ed in the 12th century, it became of Würzburg, in the picturesque Tauber surrounded by thick stone walls, it a Free City of the Holy Roman Valley; the Tauberfränkisches Land- is one of the top tourist destinations Empire in 1274 and one of north- schaftsmuseum, a medieval castle with in Germany. Al- ern Europe’s most important city by Sharon Hudgins 17 rooms of fascinating exhibits from though it’s always states in the Middle Ages. But as its ancient times to the 19th century (www. tourist “high season” in Rothenburg, political and economic importance tauberbischofsheim.de/); the Bauern- there are certain times when the eventually declined, Rothenburg hof Museum in nearby Distelhausen town actually seems to belong to its became just another backwater. displays 5,000 household and agricul- residents, especially on weekdays Despite an earthquake and several tural articles relating to 150 years of in early spring, late autumn, and sieges, the old town within the daily life in a rural village house (www. winter. But on weekends, holidays, walls retained much of its early bauernhofmuseum-distelhausen.de). and during festivals, the parking character because there was little l Lauda-Königshofen: 300 houses lots outside the walls are packed new development. In the 19th cen- built between 1500 and the mid-1800s; with tour buses, and the streets are tury, however, it was “discovered” Heimattmuseum Lauda, in a beauti- thronged with visitors. Avoid these Continued on page 3… ful half-timbered house on the main periods, and you’ll quickly come to Exchange rates as of 3/22/14 square, with 20 rooms of historic arts, appreciate the beauty and charm of 1 euro = $1.38 crafts, furniture, clothing, and house- this world-famous little town. Swiss franc = $1.13 Continued on page 10… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$7.35 www.gemut.com Final Issue www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER into $9,800 (sort of like what happened Lucerne and, except for the Red Cross Continued from page 1 if you bought a home in California in Museum, Geneva is a bore. Can’t 2008). The formula also changes with get worked up over the Black Forest. keting tool for tiny publishers like us, increases in the cost of postage, paper, Smaller towns I really liked: Bamberg, and the Internet kicked in as a limitless and printing. The 50-cent mailing piece Freiburg, Regensburg, Coburg, Sion, (though unfiltered) source of travel soon became 60-cents. Direct-mail Steyr, Appenzell, Kandersteg, Pontre- info. On September 11, 2001, many also has become very politically incor- sina. Lesser-known regions not to be Americans changed their minds about rect. The game-changer in all this, of missed: the islands of Sylt and Rügen, air travel. For most that fear subsided, course, is price. It has to go up and too and Burgenland in Austria. The most but by then if they were Gemütlichkeit many subscribers decided our content beautiful: the Bernese Oberland. subscribers they had already canceled wasn’t worth $69. Dream of Italy, the Next to , the place I would their subscriptions or decided not to only destination newsletter that, to my most like to live in Europe is some- renew. knowledge, is still around charges $87 where on Lac Lèman, between Laus- For niche publishers, recruiting for 10 issues. Want investment advice? anne and Montreux. The weekly Value Line newsletter costs new subscribers via TV, radio and The friendliest innkeepers: Chris- $598, no hardcopy in the mail, you print advertising has never been an tin and Gerd Schlenzka, Hotel Art access it online. The niche, hardcopy option. The only viable source is direct- Nouveau, Berlin; Eike and Georg von newsletter is a relic. mail...“junk mail.” When virtually all Gernerth, Schloss Haunsperg near small travel publications—Bella Italia, We saw the end coming a few years Salzburg, and the Pantenberg brothers, La Belle France, First-Class Confidential, ago and hung on by going from 12 Hotel Petrisberg, Trier. even the giant Consumer Reports Travel to 11 to 10 issues per year and trying Though I love trains, automobile Newsletter, and several others—bit to switch everyone to a product that is the way to see the countryside and the dust, the lists we had rented or required no paper, printing or post- small towns. There are many more exchanged were gone and there was age—our electronic edition...and, in the miles of road than train . After no one left to mail to. List brokers we last few years, cutting back on our own 27 years of phone, letter and email used went out of business. Here is the travel by hiring freelance writers who direct mail math of the late ‘80s and were already in Europe and paying Continued on page 12… early ‘90s for a small publisher: spend most of their own travel expenses. As Using Gemütlichkeit $25,000 in postage and printing to good as some of those writers were, in • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- mail a list of 50,000, get a one-percent the end it wasn’t the Gemütlichkeit way. counts are often available for longer stays. return (an outstanding result) or 500 • All hotel prices include breakfast unless We had compromised. It’s time to go. otherwise noted. new subscribers. At $49 per subscriber The final words in this space • Local European telephone area codes that’s $24,500. You lost $500 but in 12 carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. months 250 of the 500 will renew, and should not be about money but about To phone establishments from outside the travel. So, a couple of parting shots. country, such as from the USA, do not dial in 24 months 75% of the 250 will renew, the first “0”. and so on, year after year. It’s a great Now it can be revealed: My favor- Back Issues Website formula provided you can find lists ite European city is Berlin. Vienna is that yield a good return, and you can next. After that maybe Graz, Zürich, Many back issues are available free to subscribers at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the still put together a mailing piece that and Hamburg. Salzburg is spectacular password published in this space each month. Go to costs only 50-cents. But pick the wrong but too many tourists. Don’t care if http://www.gemut.com/csub.html list and you’ve got a four-tenths of 1% I ever go back to Innsbruck. As gor- Password: fertig return and your $25,000 has turned geous as it is I never fell in love with

Vol. 28, No. 1 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key February 2014 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton,Margie C. Fischer, Gibson, R. Holliday, Sharon Jim Hudgins Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten PaulHorn, T. Phyllis Merschdorf Meras Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: Andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% UpCountry Publishing, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: Outstanding Value 17 - 20 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 151 Church Street, Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 Final Issue “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com ROTHENBURG Rothenburg Basics rooms from the 14th to 18th centu- Continued from page 1 Population: 11,000 ries, including the priory kitchen from 1300, the oldest preserved by German Romantic painters and Elevation: 430 meters (1,410 ft.) convent kitchen in Germany. It also poets, whose works ignited a new Tourist Information: Rothenburg has an excellent collection of 19th- interest in this picturesque place, century paintings of Rothenburg, as and the tourist boom began. Tourismus Service, Marktplatz 2, 91541 , well as fascinating exhibits of armor, tools, household items, and beauti- Situated on a plateau overlook- tel. +49/(0)9861-404-800, fax 404- fully carved wooden cookie molds. ing the Tauber River in the 529, [email protected], www. region of , Rothenburg is tourismus.rothenburg.de Lawyers, legal scholars, and encircled by a massive 14th-century lovers of the macabre will want to stone wall, 1.5 miles (2.5 kms) long, Driving distances: see the exhibits about punishment, with 42 towers and gates. Atop the Ansbach 34 km/21 miles torture, and death at the Medieval wall is a walkway, accessible by Nürnberg 105 km/65 miles Crime Museum. On a lighter note, stairs in several places, providing Würzburg 66 km/41 miles Christmas is celebrated year round good views of the city’s medieval Stuttgart 150 km/93 miles at both the German Christmas urban layout and the Tauber River Frankfurt 183 km/114 miles Museum and the Käthe Wohlfahrt Valley. But not all one sees dates Munich 253 km/157 miles Christmas Store, the latter a power- from the Middle Ages. Shortly be- shopper’s paradise of 30,000 Christ- fore the end of World War II, 40-per- Public transportation: None within mas decorations. The Castle Garden, cent of Rothenburg was destroyed the town walls (except taxis) be- just outside the massive 14th-century in an Allied bombing raid, and the Castle Gate, is a nice place to enjoy town surrendered to American cause Rothenburg is so small that you can walk to all the sights, a picnic lunch. And for a glimpse of forces soon after. Later, the accurate domestic life during the period the including from the train and bus historical reconstruction of the dam- town wall was built, visit the Old stations outside the wall. aged buildings and town walls was Craftsmen’s House, a preserved 11- financed in part by donations from Rail connections: From Würzburg room medieval house that was home all over the world, sent by visitors or Nürnberg, connect in Steinach and workshop for a variety of local who had fallen in love with this little (hourly) for Rothenburg. craftsmen over seven centuries. medieval town. Bus connections: Romantic Road Rothenburg also has several in- For such a small place Rothen- Coach, daily April-October, from teresting historical churches, includ- burg has plenty of noteworthy Frankfurt to Füssen, with a stop ing the Gothic St. Jacob’s Church, sights. Start at the Market Square, in Rothenburg. with its beautiful 14th-century surrounded by multistory Gothic stained glass, colorful 15th-century and Renaissance buildings includ- Nearest airport: Nürnberg, 80 high altar and choir stalls, and ing the impressive Town Hall. The km/50 miles; Frankfurt, 180 another magnificent altar by the town hall and main square are the km/112 miles; Munich, 210 famous sculptor and woodcarver, site of the historic Meistertrunk km/130 miles. Tilman Riemenschneider. The 1309 (Master Draught) reenactment, held Guided tours: Public tours (90 Franciscan Church also features a four times a year, commemorating a minutes) in English, daily March- Riemenschneider altar. legendary event in 1631, during the Thirty Years War, when the mayor of November, starting at the Market If you don’t mind crowds, then the Protestant town saved Rothen- Square (€7). The special Night it’s fun to visit Rothenburg during burg from Catholic forces. The Cath- Watchman tour, in English, is festivals when the townsfolk are olic commander agreed to spare the highly recommended, too (year dressed in local costumes, the wine town if the mayor could drink a 3.25 round, starting at 8pm in the flows freely, and regional foods and liter tankard of local wine in one go. Market Square, €7). crafts, from medieval to modern, are The mayor succeeded and even lived sold at the open-air stalls. Major fes- Recommended guidebook: tivals are the Historic Festival Play to tell the tale. That’s why you now Rothenburg ob der Tauber, by Wolf- see huge, highly ornamented glass of the “Master Draught,” held dur- gang Kootz, paperback guidebook ing four days over Pentecost week- tankards for sale in many souvenir in English with a map of the town, shops, as well as a 1616 version of end in late spring, with several reen- suggested tour route, 154 color actments, as well as folk dancing, a the city’s ceremonial tankard on dis- photos, historical timeline, and play at the Imperial City Museum. medieval market, and a parade with good descriptions of all the sights. more than 200 horses and costumed In a former priory built in the For sale at the Tourist Office and citizens; the Rothenburg Wine Fes- 13th century, the Imperial City Mu- many hotels and shops (€7). tival in mid-August; the Imperial seum is a treasure trove of historical City Festival in early September;

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and another Historic Festival Play dating back to the 16th century, and Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 16/20 of the “Master Draught” in October. a newer annex across the street, the Hotel Herrnschlösschen Finally, Rothenburg’s Reitlersmarkt, four-star Eisenhut has long been one the local Christmas Market during of Germany’s best-known hotels. The smallest and most exclusive the four weeks leading up to Christ- The baronial lobby sets the style for hotel in Rothenburg, with only four mas, is a delight. When the town is the entire hotel, with thick columns rooms and four suites, this family- blanketed with snow and the streets supporting stone arches, dark wood- run hotel has garnered a five-star are lighted only by lanterns, it feels en ceiling, large fireplace, oriental rating (out of 224 reviews) on Trip like a time machine has magically rugs, and wide wooden staircase Advisor, as well as top ratings on transported Rothenburg back to the that leads up to the rooms above. other travel websites, since its open- Middle Ages. From its establishment as a wine ing in 2010. Situated in a small, mul- tavern in 1890, the Eisenhut soon tistory manor house that dates back Hotels became a hotel, owned by the same to the 11th century, it combines me- Rothenburg has plenty of accom- family until 2006 when it was sold dieval structure and modern interior modations for the hordes that be- to another family-run enterprise that design in a pleasing ambience that siege it, from rooms in private homes operates six hotels in the Franconia appeals to guests who like minimal- to small pensions, Gasthäuser, and region of Germany. ist style within a historic setting. (No full-service hotels in a wide range of elevator, but the friendly staff will Each of the Eisenhut’s 78 rooms help with luggage.) prices. All the hotels reviewed here is different in decor, furnished with are within the city walls and only a antiques, oriental carpets, and oil Every room has a distinctly dif- short walk from the main sights. paintings, as well as modern ameni- ferent decor, based on a particular ties such as flat-screen TVs, mini- theme (Amaryllis, Butterfly, Lily, Hotel Eisenhut bar, and free WiFi throughout the Tulip, etc.). Old exposed beams This hotel was an Editor’s Choice buildings (but no air conditioning). contrast with the modern or clas- two decades ago, in a 1993 issue of Number 120 is a superior double fea- sical furnishings, some with Asian Gemütlichkeit, and retains that rating turing a marble-tile bathroom with accents. The “newer” front part of today for its combination of his- a sunken tub and a balcony with a the hotel, dating from 1558, serves tory, location, and Old World as the lobby and breakfast room, ’s nice view over the Tauber Valley. elegance. Occupying three as well as the dining room for the Editor Number 233 is a spacious deluxe adjacent patrician houses, Choice double on the front side of the build- Herrnschlösschen’s restaurant. And ing, with an especially large bath- the little Baroque garden is a lovely Key Websites for the Traveler place to relax with a glass of Sekt • www.gemut.com Gateway site for room. And Number 357 is a junior travelers to Germanic Europe, including car suite with white-and-gold French (German sparkling wine) after a day rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, provincial furniture in the bedroom of sightseeing in Rothenburg. and past issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). and sitting room, a very large bath- The Herrnschlösschen’s restau- • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin room with gold fixtures, and a lovely rant offers a small, but well pre- database of hotels and restaurants, plus great view over the river valley below. pared, upscale menu of á la carte interactive trip planning tools dishes made from local ingredients • www.travelessentials.com Guide- The breakfast buffet with a vari- books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all ety of hot and cold dishes, including (main dishes €19-28), as well as at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use discount freshly made waffles, is served in three- and four-course prix fixe code gemut2010. a beautiful historic room located in menus (€41-53 without wines, or • maps.google.com Amazing map re- €65-71 with three corresponding source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great the former stables of the courtyard detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. between two of the patrician houses. wines). • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ And the hotel’s Restaurant Eisenhut Room rates include breakfast, en German rail website, with train schedules is known for its fine cuisine (see Res- use of in-room bar, sauna, WiFi, and throughout Europe, as well as Germany. taurant section). • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and European parking. rail schedules Contact: Hotel Eisenhut, Herrngasse Contact: Hotel Herrnschlösschen, • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- 3-5/7, 91541 Rothenburg ob der Tau- Herrngasse 20, 91541 Rothenburg ob source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts ber, tel. +49/9861-705-0, fax 705-45, • www.myswitzerland.com Website der Tauber, tel. +49/9861-873-890, of Switzerland’s national tourist authority [email protected], www.eisen- fax 891-11, info@herrnschloesschen. • www.germany-tourism.de Ger- hut.com/en/hotel.html de, www.hotel-rothenburg.de/en/ many’s national tourist authority Daily rates: Singles (Classic, Su- hotel-en • www.austria.info/us Austria’s perior, Deluxe) €80-160, doubles Daily rates: Single or double deluxe national tourist authority (Classic, Superior, Deluxe) €100-208, rooms start at €210; junior suites • www.historicgermany.com Web- site for an alliance of historic German cities junior suites €200-255, suites €270- priced from €265 and suites from • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electron- 328. Breakfast buffet €17 per person. €325. ics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. Parking €10 per day. Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 12/20 Gemütlichkeit 4 Final Issue Book European Travel Book Hotels Online TravelTRAVEL MMARTArT European Auto Rental Travel shoppingGermany is easy at www.gemut.com You can now book hotels, purchase rail www.gemut.com www.gemut.comwww.gemut.com Car 1-week xtra day Opelpasses Corsa and point-to-point$198 rail tickets,$28 buy . A website for travelers to Three-star-plus hotels from: A website for travelers to VWtravel Golf insurance,(w/upgrade*) and$216 request quotes$31 on GermanicGermanic Europe Europe VWtransatlantic Golf (Auto) airline $250tickets and$36 rental Baden-Baden ...... €71 VWcars. Passat Secure, (w/upgrade*) one-stop $239 European $37 travel Berlin ...... €49 Book European Travel MBZshopping C180/GPS at www.gemut.com (Auto) $383 $55 Frankfurt Airport ...... €53 Hotell Schloss hl Berg Travel shopping is easy at www.gemut. 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Editor's choice VW Golf (Auto)Germany $550 $79 Mercedes(Partial B-Class Vehicle $361 List)$52 Lake cruiseGemütlichkeit's ships stop at our dock, close to Tel.+49.30.3277440, Fax +49.30.32774440 Bavarian Castles and Austria. SkodaCar Octavia $4241-week $61xtra day Trip Planning & Email: [email protected] MercedesOpel Corsa C-Class with air$779$204 $111 $29 BookingUSA Reservations Service Office web: www.hotelartnouveau.de NissanVW Golf SUV (w/upgrade*) $509$205 $73 $29 Toll Free: 866-833-1251 FordOpel Focus Astra Wagon (Auto) $370$344 $53 $48 • Hotel Bookings BOOK NOW FOR OKTOBERFEST LowSpring season airfares air to to Europe... Europe SkodaVW Octavia Passat Wagon (w/upgrade*) $458$246 $65 $35 Renault Traffic 9-Pass $933 $119 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations LowestOct. 26-Dec. Fares 10, - DecBest . 25-Mar. 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For free catalog from any cruise line or to book space, phone Gemütlichkeit: 800-521-6722 x 2 Gemütlichkeit 8 Final Issue “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com Hotel Reichs-Küchenmeister Hotel-Gasthaus Schranne Daily rates: Singles €50-80, doubles Like the Eisenhut, this hotel re- Owned by the same family since €88-109, three- to four-bed rooms tains its 1993 Gemütlichkeit Editor’s the 1960s, the three-star Schranne €110-150, breakfast included. Choice rating. Family-run for six is another hotel in a historic build- Rating: Quality 12/20, Value 12/20 generations, the three-star Reichs- ing, this one dating from the 1600s. Restaurants Küchenmeister is the kind of cozy, Located on a large open square near traditional, welcoming hotel one the medieval city walls, it’s only a Wine taverns are popular in Rothenburg, many of them cozy hopes for in a historic old city couple of small streets away from like Rothenburg. The hotel ’s the more crowded city center. little nooks with a romantic Old Editor World atmosphere. Most offer light and nicely-decorated rooms hoice C The Schranne’s 48 rooms are meals, so they’re good places to eat for dining and drinking are all clean, modern, simple, and comfort- located in a handsome half-timbered for a reasonable price while also able, with white walls, solid pine tasting the regional wines. Favorites building, one of the oldest patrician furniture, flat-screen TVs, air con- houses in Rothenburg, with parts include the Weinstube Löchle in the ditioning, and Wifi. Number 114 is Hotel Reichs-Küchenmeister (www. of the structure dating to the 12th a large corner room with plenty of century. Its unusual name refers to reichskuechenmeister.com/essen- windows letting in light. In addition trinken/weinstube-loechle.html); “Master Chefs of the Empire,” who to its main restaurant and several were also in charge of enforcing the Altfränkische Weinstube near smaller, cozy dining rooms (see Res- the Imperial City Museum, which the law in the free city of Rothen- taurants), the Schranne has an out- burg during medieval times. Their also has seven rooms for overnight door restaurant area, a beer garden guests (www.altfraenkische-wein- 800-year-old heraldic figure of a in back, and plenty of places to park. knight’s helmet surrounded by tra- stube-rothenburg.de/, reservations Very friendly staff make a stay there recommended); Bier und Weinstube ditional cooking utensils can be seen even more enjoyable. above the hotel’s main entrance. Zum Pulverer, serving Franconian Contact: Hotel-Gasthaus Schranne, specialties and a variety of excellent The hotel has 45 rooms and three Schrannenplatz 6, 91541 Rothenburg local sausages, in a building dating holiday apartments, some in an an- ob der Tauber, tel. +49/9861-95-500, from the 1500s (www.zumpulverer. nex nearby. All the rooms are dif- fax 95-50-150, info@hotel-schranne. de/); Weingut und Hotel Glocke, a ferent in size and decor, some with de, www.hotel-schranne.de/en/ 23-room hotel with restaurant, wine- exposed wooden beams and hand- Daily rates: Singles €45-70, doubles tasting rooms, wine-storage cave painted traditional Franconian-style €70-115, three- to four-bed rooms under an adjacent building, and well furniture, others with more modern €110-140, breakfast included. stocked wine shop nearby selling appointments. Numbers 204, 304, Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 14/20 fine wines from the proprietor’s own and 308 have good views over the vineyards (www.glocke-rothen- city. Number 117 is a corner room in Hotel-Gasthaus zur Sonne burg.eu/). the oldest part of the building, with Family-run since 1963 and re- antique hand-painted furniture, and The Kartoffelstube in the cently renovated, the Hotel zur Gasthof Rödertor, just outside the Number 104 is a large suite, very Sonne is located in an old four- nicely decorated, with a corner room city wall, is a fun family-run restau- story building just a short distance rant serving Franconian specialties in an old chapel. A spa with sauna from Rothenburg’s main square. and steam room is in the basement. with an emphasis on potato dishes Stairs (no elevator) lead up to its 19 (try the potato cream soup with In addition to the hotel’s main rooms, all of which are decorated whipped cream, potato chips, and restaurant, there are also several in a simple modern or rustic style. chopped chives, or the potato pizza smaller rooms tucked away in vari- The bathrooms have showers but with seasonal garnishes, www.roed- ous places for more intimate dining, no tubs. Family-room Number 11 ertor.com/en/restaurant-rothen- including a popular wine bar (see consists of a bedroom, sitting room, burg/). For excellent coffee, breads, Restaurants). and small balcony; Number 12 is a pastries, and light snacks, try Brot & double room with excellent views Contact: Flairhotel Reichs-Küchen- Zeit on the Hafengasse pedestrian over the town and the countryside. meister, Kirchplatz 8, 91541 Rothen- street near Market Square, where the Past the attractive dining room on burg ob der Tauber, tel. +49/9861- bread is baked fresh daily in a wood- the ground floor (see Restaurants), 9700, fax 970-409, hotel@reichskue- fired oven. Get ice cream at nearby there’s a cozy breakfast room and a chenmeister.com, www.reichskue- Eiscafe D’Ispel. And at bakeries nice outdoor terrace in the back. chenmeister.com/en/home.html and pastry shops all around town Daily rates: Singles €55-90, doubles Contact: Hotel-Gasthof zur Sonne, look for the Rothenburg specialty, €75-145, junior suite €140-175, suite Hafengasse 11, 91541 Rothenburg ob Schneeballen (snowballs), made €160-225, all with large breakfast der Tauber, tel. +49/(0)9861-2166, fax from pastry strips formed into a ball, buffet included. 9861-8919, [email protected], deep-fried, and garnished with pow- Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 17/20 www.sonne.rothenburg.de. dered sugar or other sweet toppings. Gemütlichkeit 9 Final Issue www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Two other recommended restau- Restaurant Reichs- in the shady beer garden outside. rants not on the following list are Küchenmeister The award-winning menu offers Die Blaue Sau in the Hotel Villa The main dining room in the Ho- starters, soups, and sausages all Mittermeier (www.villamitter- tel Reichs-Küchenmeister has a ge- priced under €10, as well as pork, meier.de/), which rates a Michelin mütlich Gasthaus decor, with padded beef, chicken, and fish main dishes “Bib Gourmand,”and Hotel Gasthof wooden banquettes, exposed beams, for €10.50-15.80. The high-quality Bezold’s restaurant. Both are just antique kitchenware displayed meats are from local sources, pre- outside the city’s Galgentor gate. around the walls, and fresh flowers pared by the in-house butchery at on the tables. Fresh local ingredients the Schranne that cures all its own Restaurant Eisenhut and Franconian specialties are fea- hams, sausages, and game. The Start with an aperitif in the Piano tured on the menu, along with other drinks list features good, reasonably Bar, preferably sitting at the table favorites from farther afield. Start priced German wines that pair well with signatures (under glass) of the with foamy pumpkin soup (€5) or a with the meat dishes. many famous European and Ameri- lamb’s-lettuce salad with cranberry Contact: Hotel-Gasthaus Schranne, can politicians, musicians, and actors dressing (€7.50). Other large salads Schrannenplatz 6, 91541 Rothenburg who have enjoyed a drink here. Then and pasta dishes are €9.50- ’s ob der Tauber, tel. +49/9861-95-500, move into the elegant main dining ditor 15.80. For a full main course, E fax 95-50-150, info@hotel-schranne. hoice room (with its huge painting of the try the Franconian dishes C de, www.hotel-schranne.de/ Meistertrunk legend), or, in good such as Sauerbraten with red cabbage en/restaurant-rothenburg-hotel- weather to the Garden Patio or Ter- and dumplings (€12.80), Franconian schranne-en race overlooking the valley far be- carp (€16.80), wild game goulash Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 14/20 low. The menu changes every three (€16.80), or roast goose (€17.50). And Gasthaus zur Sonne months, with the seasons. ’s for dessert indulge in gingerbread Winter appetizers and soups Editor ice cream garnished with Bailey’s This is another small hotel res- hoice (€7.50-14) include house-made C liqueur and whipped cream (€5.50). taurant that prides itself on the venison terrine with Cumberland freshness and local sourcing of its The hotel has several other din- sauce. Main dishes, such as roast ingredients. (The chef even forages ing venues, too: the smaller Cork- duck with orange sauce and red for greens, such as wild garlic.) The screw Parlor next to the main dining cabbage, or roast salmon on truffle- menu features traditional German room; the woody Lupoldstube with scented vegetables with tagliatelle, dishes, cooked and plated with flair. its inviting big tile stove; the Garden are €18.50-28, and desserts include Start with six vineyard snails in Restaurant (beer garden) outdoors green apple-cinnamon sorbet with herbed butter (€6.90), followed by on the terrace in good weather; the sparkling wine (€4.50). Lighter dish- salmon-stuffed Maultaschen (large intimate St. Michael’s Cellar, the es are available, too (€13.50-18.50). ravioli) with Riesling wine sauce smallest wine tavern in Rothen- The three- to five-course prix fixe and salad (€12.40). Vegetarians will burg; and the Weinstube Löchle, menus are well worth considering enjoy the house-made Spätzle (small well known for its good selection of at prices ranging from €22-54, and egg dumplings) in Gorgonzola sauce wines accompanied by Flammkuchen the wine list features more than 100 with a side salad (€9.20). choices, both local and international. (Alsatian-style thin-crust pizza). Wherever you choose to eat in the Contact: Hotel-Gasthof zur Sonne, An advantage of the main din- Reichs-Küchenmeister, the well pre- Hafengasse 11, 91541 Rothenburg ob ing room is it does not accept tour- pared food all comes from the same der Tauber, tel. +49/9861-2166, fax groups. But if you’re in the mood kitchen, and the prices are very rea- 8919, [email protected], for a light, casual meal, just stay in sonable for the quality served. www.sonne.rothenburg.de. the Piano Bar and order classic spe- Contact: Rating: Quality 13/20, Value 14/20 cialties like six little Nürnberg brat- Flairhotel Reichs-Küchen- wursts with sauerkraut, followed by meister, Kirchplatz 8, 91541 Rothen- ROMANTIC ROAD an ice cream sundae or a slice of lus- burg ob der Tauber, tel. +49/9861- Continued from page 1 cious house-made cake or pastry. All 9700, fax 970-409, hotel@reichskue- chenmeister.com, www.reichskue- hold goods from that locality; impres- menu items priced at less than €10. Holy Cross Church chenmeister.com/en/home.html sive Baroque in nearby Gerlachsheim. Contact: Restaurant Eisenhut, Hotel Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 Eisenhut, Herrngasse 3-5/7, 91541 l : The only Rothenburg ob der Tauber, tel. Gasthaus Schranne spa town on Romantic Road, in a well +49/9861-705-0, fax 705-45, hotel@ Dine on traditional German dish- known wine-producing area, whose eisenhut.com, www.eisenhut.com/ es, with an emphasis on seasonal Kurpark is one of the most beautiful en/hotel.html Bavarian and Franconian speciali- parks in Germany; the Deutschordens- museum, the medieval castle complex Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 15/20 ties, in one of the Hotel-Gasthaus Schranne’s several dining rooms or of the Order of Teutonic Knights, a ma- Gemütlichkeit 10 Final Issue “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com jor attraction worth seeing (by guided meteor; Bavarian Railway Museum, at the south end of the Romantic Road, tour only, daily except Mondays, www. with the largest collection of trains on the Lech River and the banks of the deutschordensmuseum.de/). in southern Germany and tours on pretty Forggensee (lake), in a spectacu- historic steam locomotives between lar alpine setting; popular location for l : Schloss Weiker- Nördlingen and (www. tourists visiting the two famous castles sheim, a beautiful Renaissance palace bayerisches-eisenbahnmuseum.de/). (www.fuessen.de/). with one of the finest Baroque gardens in Germany; the palace is also known l Harburg: Small village domi- There are five ways to travel the Ro- for its sparkling wine, which you can nated by Burg Harburg, one of the mantic Road: by car, bicycle, bus, train, taste on site (www.schloss-weiker- largest medieval castles in southern or on foot. The Romantic Road Tourist sheim.de/en/); Tauberländer Dorf- Germany, and one of the few original Association in Dinkelsbühl has a web- museum, in a historic building with (not rebuilt) castles in the region (www. site about the route in English. Contact displays of more than 2,000 objects of burg-harburg.de/). them for a special map showing the daily life in earlier times (www.tauber- l Donauwörth: A historic town in exact route marked in brown to coor- tal.de/tourismus/museen/museen-in- the middle of the Romantic Road, at the dinate with the “Romantische Strasse” weikersheim/dorfmuseum/). confluence of the Danube and Wörnitz road signs posted on the route all the way between Würzburg and Füssen. l : Lord God Church rivers. (www.donauwoerth.de/html/ Driving a car is the best way to travel, with a magnificent wooden altar carved user_en_TouristInfo+TouristInfo.html). because you can follow your own by Tilman Riemenschneider in the l Landsberg: Attractive medieval schedule, stopping as frequently as you early 1500s (www.herrgottskirche.de/); walled town south of Augsburg on the want and wandering off on side roads nearby Thimble Museum with 4,000 Lech River, with three interesting muse- to visit nearby attractions not directly thimbles and sewing utensils covering ums (stadtmuseum-landsberg.byseum. on the route. But as tourist associa- a period of 2,500 years; old flax process- de/de/home); just outside of town, the tion director, Jurgen Wünschenmeyer, ing implements in the Flachsbrecher European Holocaust Memorial (www. points out, “Don’t follow your GPS for Museum in Creglingen-Burgstall. buergervereinigung-landsberg.org/ this route. Follow the brown line on the l Rothenburg environs: Another english/index.shtml). map and the brown road signs. That beautiful Riemenschneider altar in l Schongau: Another medieval way you’ll travel the best roads for see- the Sts. Peter and Paul Church in walled town, gateway to the Pfaffen- ing all the important sights.” Dettwang; lovely handmade pottery winkel (Priests’ Corner) part of south- Both the map and route signs also at the Töpferei-im-Chausseehaus western Bavaria, site of several historic show cycling trails and long-distance in Steinsfeld (www.toepferei-im- churches and monasteries set within hiking routes. But there is no train chausseehaus.de/); Baroque castle with the lovely landscape of alpine foothills. service covering the length of the Ro- museum and falconry demonstrations mantic Road, and only a few of the in Schillingsfürst (www.schloss-schil- l : Small town near one larger towns can be reached by train. lingsfuerst.de). of the most important attractions in the region, the richly ornamented pilgrim- That’s why the Romantic Road Coach l Feuchtwangen: Franconian age church, , a 17th-century is a popular mode of travel for those Museum with one of the best collec- Rococo masterpiece and UNESCO who don’t want to walk, bike, or drive. tions of folk art in southern Germany World Heritage Site; a must-see for From April to October, this bus service (fraenkisches-museum.de); Cafe am anyone visiting this part of Germany links both ends of the Romantic Road Kreuzgang on the attractive city (www.wieskirche.de/eframset.htm). with the international airport gateways square, featuring award-winning choc- of Frankfurt am Main and Munich. l olates and excellent pastries (http:// and Hohen- Hopping on and off the bus anywhere www.cafeamkreuzgang.de/). schwangau: Villages near the two along the route, offers the flexibility major sights on the southernmost part l Dinkelsbühl: One of the most of planning your own individual tour of the Romantic Road, King Ludwig for as long or as short a time as you charming towns on the Romantic Road, II’s fairytale castle, Neuschwanstein, full of impressive multistory half- want (www.romantic-road.com/index. one of the top tourist destinations in php?id=romantic_road_coach&L=0). timbered houses; entirely surrounded all of Germany (www.neuschwanstein. by a medieval stone wall with 16 forti- de/englisch/tourist/index.htm), and So many places on the Romantic fied towers and several city gates; St. its sister castle, Hohenschwangau Road will tempt you to linger for hours George’s Minster, massive late Gothic (www.hohenschwangau.de/430. or even days. Book a hotel in a small church; the town tour led by the night- html); also the new Museum of the village and use it as a base day trips to watchman is especially popular with Bavarian Kings, which opened in Ho- other locations. visitors (www.dinkelsbuehl.de). henschwangau in 2011 (www.hohen- l Nördlingen: Another of the most schwangau.de/museum0.0.html); the Hotels attractive small towns in the central museum and both castles can be visited The family-run, four-star Hotel part of the Romantic Road, located in on the same day on a combined ticket Deutsche Haus in Dinkelsbühl is in a crater caused by an ancient meteorite priced at €20-29.50 for adults (http:// an impressive six-story half-timbered and surrounded by a massive medieval www.hohenschwangau.de/550.0.html). building from 1440, one of the land- stone wall; St. George’s Church, with a l Füssen: Bavaria’s highest town, marks of the town. The interior features steeple made from rock created by the wood paneling, oriental rugs, antique Gemütlichkeit 11 Final Issue www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com furniture, frescoes from the 1920s, and the adjacent brewery since 1755 (www. still flourishing 20 years later. For the a historic painted wooden ceiling in landwehr-braeu.com/index.php). past four years, Laura has been our the attractive restaurant. All 12 rooms The Gasthof Alte Schreinerei in editor. She does the first story edits have modern bathrooms and are nicely Bettwar, five kilometers from Rothen- then uses InDesign software to create decorated. Singles €79-99, doubles €129, burg, is another traditional restaurant a layout document for the printer. She two suites €139-159, breakfast included serving unusually good dishes of local also oversees our air ticket and cruise (www.deutsches-haus-dkb.de). ingredients at prices from a decade or booking service. Andy, who wrote At the Romantik Hotel Greifen- more ago. A late-spring menu featured about his family’s experience camp- Post in Feuchtwangen, occupying two a delicious Franconian white wine soup ing in Europe, has anchored our car adjoining 14th-15th century build- with herbed croutons and whipped rental service for 20 years. He is the ings, the 35 guest rooms are decorated cream (€2.90); house-made wild garlic “main man” in what is now the big- in four different styles: Renaissance, Maultaschen (giant ravioli) in warm gest part of our business. Landhaus, Romantik, and Biedermeier. broth with Black Forest ham and a huge If, over the last 27 years, you’ve There is a library, swimming pool, side salad for €7.90; other main dishes had good experiences dealing with our spa, and three cozy dining rooms. The are €8.90-13.90; and several desserts kids, you can thank their mom, Liz, restaurant is known for remarkable (€3.90-4.70). The Gasthof also has six whose calm demeanor and egalitarian cuisine at moderate prices, rating a Bib rooms for overnight guests, with a gen- approach to the world is the example Gourmand in the Michelin Guide. Singles erous breakfast buffet included (www. they wisely follow. Liz has taken the €67-113, doubles €89-154. Prices include alte-schreinerei.de/en/index.html). notes on every hotel and restaurant, breakfast buffet and use of the wellness Tourist Information: info@roman- kept a diary of all 65 trips, navigated facilities (www.hotel-greifen.de/). tischestrasse.de, www.romantisches- every mile of back road and , The Hotel Landwehr-Bräu in trasse.de, www.romanticroad.de. read (several times) all 253 issues be- Steinsfeld-Reicholshofen, 7 kilometers fore they went to press, and so much (4.3 miles) north of Rothenburg, rates a AUF WIEDERSEHEN more. (We met in 1958 at a dance on Continued from page 2 “Bib Hotel” in the Michelin Guide. The the campus of a college where I wasn’t 37 well appointed, very comfortable contact (though we’ve run into several even a student. On leave from the rooms are a welcome retreat after a readers in Europe—totally by chance), Navy, I didn’t know about the dance long day of sightseeing, as is the hotel’s I’ve come to the conclusion that far until 10 minutes before I was peering good restaurant with beer brewed on too many of you aren’t comfortable through the gloom of the women’s the premises (see review below). Sin- without a hotel booked for every night gym looking for a dance partner [if gles €78-85, doubles €97-112, breakfast of your trip. To that I say, c’mon, live you’re going to win the lottery, as I did included (www.landwehr-braeu.de/). a little. Venture into the unknown. that night, you gotta buy a ticket]. I Turn down a country road some Restaurants avoid thinking what might have hap- morning and in the late afternoon use pened over the last 56 years if my bud- Dine in historic surroundings in the Michelin Red Guide to find a hotel. dy had not interrupted our aimless, the lovely wood-paneled dining room Then do it all over again the next day. bored-out-of-our skulls cruise around of the Altdeutsches Restaurant in the town that night with; “hey, there’s a Hotel Deutsche Haus in Dinkelsbühl. I’ll try to keep the thank-yous freshman mixer at the college; wanna The menu offers regional dishes pre- short. • Our writers; Sharon Hudgins, go?”and I hadn’t said: “Why not?”) pared and plated with modern flair. Tom Bross, Phyllis Meras, Margie The three-course lunch menu for €20 is Gibson, Lydia Itoi, and Doug Linton, Finally, the impossible task; find- recommended, and the wine list offers a all of whom were accurate, creative, ing the right words to properly thank wide selection, with wines by the glass underpaid and shared a love of travel you, our subscribers. Some of you starting at €4.90 (www.deutsches-haus. in our three countries. • In 1986 my have been with us the entire 27 years. net/de/restaurant.html). youngest brother, Tom, alerted me to You trusted us and paid for our in- The Brauerei-Gasthof Landwehr- the tools that made Gemütlichkeit pos- formation, a phenomenon that still Bräu in Steinsfeld-Reicholshofen has sible; a MacIntosh computer running somewhat surprises me. Less than two four nicely appointed dining areas, the Adobe software PageMaker. He years before launching Gemütlichkeit, including an especially charming old was then was my business partner I was fired as VP of Player Personnel wood-paneled Gaststube. The menu of for two years. • My uncle, John Be- for the Golden State Warriors of the regional dishes is moderately priced for stor, who introduced me to Europe NBA. Your belief in our advice—and such good quality food. Try the French and Germany in 1973, and, until his your checks—went a long way toward onion soup (€4.90) followed by Pikantes death, was a towering figure in my restoring my self-confidence. I thank Pfeffertöpfchen, pork loin in a green life. • Our kids, Bob, Laura and Andy, you and wish you many safe and peppercorn-seasoned cream sauce all of whom at one time or another happy travels in the years ahead. had a hand in this. In 1994, Bob and with house-made Spätzle dumplings Right now I’m getting good his wife, Nancy (who, in 1987, keyed and a large side salad (€15.60); other advice from Dr. Seuss: “Don’t cry the first subscribers into our data- main dishes are €8-22.50, with most in because it’s over, smile because it hap- base) spun off the retail travel gear the €12-15 range. Enjoy the excellent pened.”—RHB beer, fresh from the tap and made in venture, Travel Essentials, that is Gemütlichkeit 12 Final Issue