182 Route 32. . carriage and pair 4 kr.), constructed by Elector Charles Theodore in 1788, is embellished with statues of the Elector and of Minerva. In 1799 it was bravely and successfully defended by the Austrians against the French. On the r. bank of the is the *Philosophenweg, a beauti ful walk extending 2 M. along the slope of the Heiligenberg (p. 172), chiefly through vineyards, commanding splendid views of the , castle, valley, plain of the with the cathedral of Speyer, and the beautiful outlines of the S. Haardt Mts. It is reached by a road through the first side valley to the 1., 1/2 M. above the bridge, passing the well-known students’ tavern “Zur Hirschgasse’, where duels still take place; the road then descends to Neuenheim (p. 172); or the walk may be taken in the opposite direction. At Neuenheim a ferry (1 kr.); swimming-bath at the landing-place on the 1. bank of the river, not far from the station. Eaccursions. Ziegelhausen (Adler), a village frequently visited from , 3 M. from the Neckar Bridge, lies on the road on the r. bank of the river, passing the picturesquely situated Stift Neuburg. Opposite to it, on the 1, bank, is stat. Schlierbach (see below), which is reached from the Carlsthor by railway in 10 min. Longer excursions (carriages, see p. 176) may also be made to Neckar gemünd (Pfalz), 6 M. distant, on the 1. bank of the Neckar, at the influx of the Elsenz (reached by railway from the Carlsthor, Pl. A., B, 1, in 20 min. ; fares 24, 15, 9 kr.: Schlierbach is a station halfway to Neckargemünd). Beyond it, on a wooded eminence to the r., rises the castle of Dilsberg, unsuccessfully besieged by Tilly during the Thirty Years' War. It was used as a state-prison down to the beginning of the present century, and the following anecdote shows how rigorous was the confinement to which the prisoners were subjected. On one occasion, when the castle was visited by strangers who were desirous of seeing the cells, they were told by the officer in command that he could not oblige them, as the prisoners were then making a tour in the and had taken the keys with them. The next place of note is the old town of Neckarsteinach (Harfe) (p. 176), on the r. bank of the Neckar, 8 M. from Heidelberg, once the seat of the valiant race of the Steinachs, who became extinct in 1653. The four old castles still bear testimony to their power. The church contains numerous monuments of the family, several of whom bore the surname of . Landschaden (“land-scourge"), perhaps from the perpetual feuds in which they were engaged. One of the castles has been restored in the mediaeval style by its present proprietor Baron v. Dorth. Excursions to Mannheim, Schwetzingen, and Speyer, see below.

32. Mannheim and Schwetzingen. Speyer. Mannheim. Hotels. *PFÅizer Hof (P1. b), R. 1 ſl., B. 30, A. 18 kr. *Deutscher Hof (PI. c), commercial. – 4König von Portugal. (PI. d) and SchwarzER Löwe ; second class. ZAHRINGER HoF (Pl. f.); *DRE1 GLocken (or HôTEL LANGELoth, Pl, g), near the Strohmarkt; *Weisses LAMM (P1. h.) and *GoLDENE GANs (Pl. i.), unpretending. Restaurants. Stern, near the theatre; Café Français; Mohren Rosenstock. — Beer: Rothes Schaf; Maierhof; Alte Sonne; Löwenkeller, o the way from the theatre to the station; Bockkeller, near the Heidelberg Gate. Cabs per drive 12 kr. for 1 pers., 24 for 2, 27 for 3, 36 for 4 pers. Porterage from station or pier to cab 3 kr, for each package.

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MANNHEIM. 32. Route. 183

Telegraph Offices at the railway station and at the post-office in the wn. Mannheim (276 ft.), was founded in 1606 by Elector Palatine Frederick IV., and destroyed by the French in 1689. For its sub sequent importance it was indebted to Elector Charles Philip, who owing to ecclesiastical differences transferred his residence from Heidelberg to Mannheim in 1720. The town was seriously damaged by the siege of 1795, and in 1799 the fortifications were demolished. Mannheim (pop. 39,614, 1/2 Prot.) is the most regularly built town in , being divided into 100 square sections like a chess-board. It is conveniently situated at the confluence of the Neckar and Rhine, and is the most important commercial town of the Upper Rhine. Tobacco, madder, spelt, and fruit are the staple commodities. The harbours of the Rhine and Neckar and the Baden railway station are connected by rails for the goods traffic. The spacious Schloss (Pl. 8), erected in 1720–1729, and parti ally destroyed in 1795, contains (in the gateway, 1.) a number of Roman Monuments, with remarkable inscriptions, statues, small Etruscan sarcophagi, &c.; on the first floor of the same wing a Picture Gallery with a few good Dutch pictures, a considerable collection of Engravings and Casts, and a Nat. History Cabinet. The Grand Duchess Stephanie (d. 1860), the adopted daughter of Napoleon I., and widow of the Grand Duke Charles (d. 1818), formerly resided here. Picture Gallery (open daily, 8–12, and 2 till dusk, adm. 30 kr, ; on Wed., 11–4, gratis). Ante-Chamber: Casts of ancient busts; engravings. - Room I. : Modern Baden artists. - II. : . L. Cranach, 34. Dying Mary; 35. Nativity; 21. Kuntz, Cows resting; 24. Holbein, Portrait; 25. Ross, Senator of Frankfort; 33. Hamilton, Game. — III. : 60. Hondekoeter, Poultry. — IV. : 119. Rubens, Portrait of his second wife; 97. Peters, Storm at sea; 88. Ruysdael, Landscape. — V. : Rembrandt, Christ before Pilate; 122. Two clergymen; 127. Potter, Cattle; 141. Ruysch, Fruit; 163. Weenic, Game; Terburg, 183. Singing lesson, 182. Lace-maker; 190. Wouvermans, Plundering. — VI. : Teniers, 20ſ. Rustic wedding, 205. Boors playing, 195. Tavern scene, 196. Rustic repast; 212. Helmont, Alchemist; Teniers, 219. Scissors-grinder, 222. Peasants singing; 223. Everdingen, Landscape; 235. Joseph Vernet, Calm sea; Ryckaert, 221. Cobbler, 224. Tavern scene; 253. Le Brun, Portrait of a counsellor. — VII. : 259. Cignani, Joseph and Potiphar. — VIII. : Casts of ancient . The Theatre (Pl. 10), restored in 1854, and admirably decora ted, is one of the best in S. Germany. Schiller's first pieces, the “Robbers’, ‘Fiesco’, and “Cabal and Love', were performed here under his own direction. — Schiller's Monument (Pl. 4), which adorns the Schillerplatz, was erected in 1862. Adjacent, on the r. and 1., are the statues of Iffland (d. 1814), a distinguished actor who began his career at Mannheim, and Von Dalberg (d. 1806), intendant of the theatre down to 1803, minister of Baden, and brother of the Primate of that name (p. 148), both by Widnmann, and erected by King Lewis I. of in 1864 and 1866. The following buildings may also be mentioned; the Jesuits Church, richly decorated with marble and gilding, erected in 1733; 184 Route 32. SCHWETZINGEN. the Observatory, the Arsenal, and the Kaufhaus, all erected about the middle of last century; the long and handsome magazines of the Freihafen; the new Synagogue, in the Byzantine style, richly decorated with gilding and arabesques. The bronze fountain in front of the Kaufhaus was erected at the beginning of the 18th cent. The Market Place is adorned with a Monument (PI. 1) to the Elector Charles Theodore. Farther N. in the same direction is the Suspension Bridge over the Neckar, constructed in 1845. The Railway Bridge (P1. G., 6) across the Rhine, with its hand some portals, was completed in 1867. From Mannheim to Carlsruhe by direct railway in 11|2 hr. (fares 1 fl. 42, 1 fl. 9, 42 kr.). Scenery uninteresting. First stat. Schwetzingen (*Erbprinz, Hirsch, both opposite the entrance to the château; Hassler, at the station), a town with inhab. The Schloss was erected by the Elector Charles Lewis in 1656, destroyed by Melac in 1689, subsequently rebuilt, and occupied during the 18th cent. as an electoral residence. The poet Hebel, who died here in 1826, is interred in the neighbouring ceme tery. The *Gardens, laid out by £iector Charles Theodore in the middle of the 18th cent. , cover an area of 117 acres, and contain fine avenues in the old French style, as well as portions laid out like an English park. The whole may be seen in 2 hrs. The objects most worthy of note are, beginning on the 1. (guide unnecessary): Temple of Minerva, the Mosque (fine view from the highest minaret, 150 ft., fee 12 kr.), Temple of Mer cury; view from the large pond (near the colossal statues of the “Rhine’ and ‘"), through an ºf in the wood, of the Haardt Mts. ; Temple of , Bath-house (fee 12 kr.), bird fountain, Roman aque duct, and orangery. Next stations , Neulussheim, Waghäusel, Wiesenthal (where the Baden insurgents were signally defeated on 21st June, 1849). Post omnibus three times daily from Wiesenthal (in "2 hr.) to the ancient imperial fortress of Philippsburg, which after numerous vicissitudes was dismantled by the French in 1800. About 3 M. farther W. lies Ger mersheim § 186). Next stations Graben-Weudorf, Linkenheim, and Carls ruhe (p. 189). Travellers who make a short stay at Mannheim are strongly re commended to devote half a day to Speyer, or Spires (by railway from Ludwigshafen in 50 min. , comp. p. 225). Speyer (*Rheinischer Hof; * Wittelsbacher Hof; *Pfälzer Hof, near the cathedral), the capital of the Bavarian Palatinate, the seat of Government and a bishopric, and the ‘city of the dead emperors' (pop. 13,241, 3/5 Prot.), was the Roman Noviomagus, Neomagus, Nemetae, or Augusta Nemetum, and was frequently the residence of the German monarchs. Under the Salic kings, who resided at Limburg near Dürkheim (p. 232), 18 M. from Speyer, the town assumed considerable importance. The **Cathedral, the great attraction here, is open 9–11 a.m., and 2–6 p.m.; admission to the choir and crypt by card only (12 kr.), obtained from the sacristan. Tickets for the cartoons (12kr.) are sold at the W. entrance, where application must be made by those desirous of ascending the tower. The church is 3/4 M. from the stat. (omnibus 9 kr.). The cathedral was founded in 1030 by Conrad II. as a burial SPEYER. 32. Route. 185 place for himself and his successors, and completed by his son Henry III. and his grandson Henry IV. (1061), all of whom found a resting-place within its precincts. The remains of Henry IV., who had been excommunicated by Pope Gregory VII., were not deposited here till five years after his death, during which period his body remained unburied in the Chapel of St. Afra, on the N. side of the cathedral, which he himself had erected. His son Henry V., last of the Salic imperial family, is also interred here, as well as Philip of Swabia, Rudolph of Hapsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and Albert I. of , by whose hand Adolph fell at Göllheim (p. 233). After the murder of Albert I., the Emp. Henry VII. caused the remains of the rival monarchs to be deposited in the same vault. Here too lie the remains of Gisela, the pious consort of Conrad II., Bertha, queen of Henry IV., and Beatrice, wife of Barbarossa, with her daughter Agnes. In 1146 the cathedral was the scene of the preach ing of St. Bernhard, whose fervency in the cause of the Cross induc ed Conrad III. to join the crusades. The cathedral suffered much by fire in 1450, but was soon restored. On 31st May, 1689, it was desecrated by the French, who did not even respect the resting-places of the dead. The tombs of the emperors were ransacked, the town was committed to the flames and completely destroyed, and other atrocities were committed by the brutal hirelings of Louis XIV. The desecration of the imperial monuments was repeated in 1693 by order of the French intendant Henz. By a singular coincidence, on the same day, exactly 100 years later, the spoliation of the tombs of the French kings at St. Denis was perpetrated under the direction of one Hentz, a representative of the people, and the remains of Louis XIV., devastator of the Palatinate, were the first to suffer what appeared to be a righteous retribution. In the following year (10th–20th Jan., 1794) the church was subjected to new devastation. Everything of a combustible nature, crosses, altars, and prayer-books, were burned in front of the sacred edifice, while the republicans are said to have danced de moniacally round the blazing pile. The church was then converted into a magazine, and at the close of last century narrowly escaped being put up to auction at a valuation of 8000 fr. In 1806 Na poleon ordered it to be re-dedicated to public worship, but in the absence of funds it continued to be used as a store-house. In 1822 it was at length restored to its sacred purposes. The church is a simple, but vast and imposing basilica in the Ro manesque style, the plan of which has remained unaltered notwith standing the numerous vicissitudes it has undergone. Length 147 yds., length of transept 60 yds., breadth of nave 15 yds., height of nave 105 ft. The crypt, under the transept and choir, which contains the most ancient tombstone of Rudolph of Hapsburg, remains in the 186 Route 32. SPEYER. Cathedral, form in which it was consecrated in 1039; the choir with the two E. towers (284 ft.) were probably erected subsequently to 1068, while the upper parts of the church are believed to have been re stored after a fire in 1159. The Façade, as well as the W. spire (239 ft.) and the Kaiser Halle, or Imperial Hall, were constructed in 1854–58 from

designs by the eminent 2-ºxº - architect Hübsch of Carls ruhe. The large rose window in front has a head of the Saviour crowned with thorns Colleg. in the centre, on a gold Choir. ground, and in the corners g.g the emblems of the four ºf: Evangelists, an angel (Mat thew), a winged lion (Mark), an ox (Luke), and an eagle tº (John). Over the principal door is the imperial double Kings' eagle, over the side-entrances the lion of the Palatinate. Choir. In the Kaiser-Halle, the entrance hall under the W. towers, are niches of gilded mosaic, in which stone sta tues of the following emperors interred in the Kings' Choir were placed in 1858; r. Con rad II., Rudolph of Hapsburg, Adolph of Nassau, and Albert of Austria; fl. Henry III., Henry IV. (in the robes of a penitent), Henry V., Philip of Swabia, and Conrad II. The last by Dietrich, the others by Fernkorn of Vienna. The four reliefs are by Pilz: Conrad laying the foundation of the cathedral; Rudolph Imperial Hall. and the priest with the host; º, tº

Rudolph receiving the tidings - of his election to the throne; the same emperor taking the cross from the altar at his coronation at Aix-la-Chapel'e . Over the principal inner portal is represented the dedication of the church to the Virgin, 1. St. Bernard and St. Stephen, r. John the Baptist and the painter Schraudolph. Cathedral. . SPEYER. 32. Route. 187

Two inscriptions to the r. and 1. of the principal portal record the names of the sovereigns by whom the church has been restored at different periods. The *Interior is adorned with ** Fresco e s by Schra u do lp h, 32 in number, which owe their origin to the artistic taste of Lewis I. and Max II., kings of Bavaria, and are among the finest specimens of modern German art. They were executed by Joh. Schraudolph, assisted by C. Schraudolph and others, in 1845–1853; decorations by Jos. Schwarzmann. NAve. W. Wall: 1. Adam and Eve; 2. Abraham's promise; 3. David's vision; 4. Birth of the Virgin; 5. Her Betrothal; 6. Salutation; 7. Adora tion of the Magi; 8. Circumcision; 9. Mary finds' Jesus in the Temple; 10. Joseph's death; 11. Jesus teaching; 12. The risen Saviour. S. Wall: 1. Noah's thank-offering; 2. The burning bush; 3. Prophesying of Isaiah; 4. Mary’s Sacrifice; 5. Saiutation; 6. Nativity; 7. Simeon’s prophecy; 8 Flight to Egypt; 9. Jesus at Nazareth; 10. Marriage at Cana; 11. Cruci fixion; 12. Descent of the Holy Ghost. On the Dome: the Lamb, Abel, Abraham, Melchisedech, the Manna, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Ezekiel, paniei, and the Evangelists. S. SIDE - choir: Stoning of Stephen; above it Stephen before the council; 1. Consecration of the deacons, and Stoning of the Martyr Stephen; on the wall at the back, Prayer of the same saint. N. SIDE - choir: Vision of St. Bernard; above it, Arrival of St. Bern ard at Speyer; on the r. , his Prayer at the altar, and under it Presenta tion of the banner of the Cross; on the back part of the wall, Miraculous cure of a boy, Departure of the saints. Collegiate Choir : Mary and John; Death of Mary; her Interment, Assumption, Coronation. — The coloured SKETCHES and CARToons are exhibited in a room above the (S.) baptistery (adm. see above); entrance from the S. side choir. — In the KINGs' Choi R, on broad pedestals, stand two large *Statues: r. Rudolph of Hapsburg, in Tyrolese marble, by Schwanthaler, in a sitting posture, with a sword in his r. hand and a helmet at his feet, as the restorer of order and peace after the sad interregnum; 1. the Emp. Adolph of Massau, in sandstone, by Ohmacht, in a kneeling position. — On the r. and 1. of the passage of the principal choir two reliefs, formerly in the vaults, are built into the walls, each containing likenesses of four emperors, partially gilded, and bearing ancient inscriptions. – The crypt beneath the choir, containing the ancient tombstone of Rudolph of Hapsburg already mention ed, was restored in 1857 and is architecturally interesting. On the exterior a gallery, without balustrades, extends round the cathedral, affording a fine view of the environs, and enabling the visitor to inspect the frescoes in the nave and choir from above. (Sacristan 30 kr.) The ancient Churchyard is now a promenade. On the S. side of the cathedral is the Oelberg (Mt. of Olives), a curious mass of rock-work with emblematical representations, surrounded by five Gothic pillars, erected in 1441. It was originally a chapel in the cloisters, of which no trace is now left, and represented the Garden of Gethsemane and the betrayal of the Saviour. Under the trees near it is the Domnapf, or cathedral-bowl, a large vessel of sand stone, once marking the boundary between the episcopal and civic jurisdiction. Every new bishop was obliged, after binding himself to respect the liberties of the town, to fill the Napf with wine, which was then drunk to his health by the townspeople. From among the trees to the E. of the choir rises the Heidenthūrmchen (Heathens' Tower), the substruction of which is supposed to be of Roman origin. It probably belonged to the town-wall built in 1080 by Bishop Rudger. It contains some bones of antediluvian animals and 188 Route 33. BRUCHSAL.

mediaeval relics. – To the N. E. of the cathedral is the open Hall of Antiquities, in which Roman and other relics found in the Rhenish Palatinate are preserved. The broad Maximilians-Strasse is bounded on the E. by the Cathedral, on the W. by the Altpórtel, a fine old tower, the sole relic of the once free Imperial town. The devastations of the French have left few other relics of an tiquity at Speyer. A mouldering wall by the Protestant church is all that remains of the ancient Retscher, an imperial palace where 29 diets were held. In consequence of the proceedings at one of these under Charles W. in 1529, the famous Protest was issued by the members of the reformed faith, from which the appellation of ‘Protestant’ is derived. The bishops, who like those of Cologne were not permitted to live in the town, resided till the 17th cent. at the Madenburg (p. 234), and afterwards at Bruchsal. From Speyer by railway in 35 min. to Germersheim (Elephant), an old town at the confluence of the Queich (p. 225) and the Rhine, strongly fortified since 1835; thence in 40 min. to Landau (p. 225). 33. From Heidelberg to Baden. Railway in 2"|4–3||2 hrs. (fares 3 fl. 54, 2 fl. 39, 1 fl. 39 kr. ; express higher). Carriages generally changed at Oos, the junction for Baden. The line traverses a wide and fertile plain, bounded on the E. by a low range of hills, and here and there passes villages peeping from among innumerable fruit-trees. As soon as the train has quitted the station, the cemetery-chapel appears on the slope to the 1. , with the tower on the Königsstuhl rising above it. Stations St. Ilgen, (the village 3/4 M. from the line); then Langen brücken (Ochs; Sonne), with sulphur baths, near which, to the r. of the line, is Kislau, formerly a hunting-seat of the archbishops of Speyer, and now a penitentiary for women. Opposite, at some distance, lies Mingolsheim, where Count Ernst Mansfeld, the ally of Elector Frederick W., defeated the Bavarians under Tilly in 1622. Bruchsal (*Badischer Hof, R. from 48, B. 30 kr.; *Rose, near the station; *Rail. Restaur.), a town with 9786 inhab., was formerly the residence of the Archbishops of Speyer, whose Schloss, a hand some rococo structure, elegantly fitted up and adorned with frescoes by Zick, merits a visit. Opposite the Schloss is a large Reservoir built in the form of a small château, and supplied with water from the mountains. The castellated building to the 1. of the line is a Prison, containing 408 cells for solitary confinement, part of which was destroyed by fire in 1871. The Church of St. Peter contains the burial vault of the last bishops. Bruchsal is the junction of the Wurtemberg line (to Stuttgart in 2–3/2 hrs. ; to Friedrichshafen in 9–12/4 hrs.). On the Michaelsberg, near stat. Unter-Grombach, stands the old Michaels-Capelle; on an eminence near stat. Weingarten rises the tower of the ruin of Schmalenstein.