Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display Author(S): Marie J
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Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display Author(s): Marie J. Clifford Source: Winterthur Portfolio, Vol. 38, No. 2/3 (Summer - Autumn, 2003), pp. 83-108 Published by: The University of Chicago Press on behalf of the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/3655133 Accessed: 27/03/2010 18:31 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of JSTOR's Terms and Conditions of Use, available at http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp. JSTOR's Terms and Conditions of Use provides, in part, that unless you have obtained prior permission, you may not download an entire issue of a journal or multiple copies of articles, and you may use content in the JSTOR archive only for your personal, non-commercial use. Please contact the publisher regarding any further use of this work. Publisher contact information may be obtained at http://www.jstor.org/action/showPublisher?publisherCode=ucpress. Each copy of any part of a JSTOR transmission must contain the same copyright notice that appears on the screen or printed page of such transmission. JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The University of Chicago Press and Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, Inc. are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Winterthur Portfolio. http://www.jstor.org Helena Rubinstein's Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display MarieJ. Clifford Helena Rubinstein's exclusive beauty salons blurred the conceptual boundaries among fashion, art galleries, and the domestic interior. This study examines the decor and art displays in Rubinstein's American salons from -915 to I937, with a particular focus on her New York establishment. Rather than dismiss these sites as superficial venues devoted to 'narcissistic "female adornment, this study argues that precisely because the salons catered to women, they lend insight into varying notions about modern \feminine" space and its audiences. Rubinstein's businesses deliberately strove to redefine standards of taste and fashionable femininity by using selected examples of modernism, in terms of interior decoration and art. The salons endorsed versions of modernism associated with the realm offashion, and they actively helped cultivate a female public for certain types of new styles. A T FIRST GLANCE, there is nothing chairs painted in the same shades. Another especially unusual about two fashion model is situated in a space given over to tufted photographs published in the October pink and blue satin (fig. 2). A robin's-egg-blue 1941 issue of Vogue. The images feature models chandelier hangs from the ceiling, matching posed for the camera in sumptuous evening exactly the color of the vitrines displayed before gowns, complete with requisite satin gloves, a central mirror. The wall resembles a display elegant jewels, and affected expressions of ennui. case and includes an ornate decorative relief of But the setting for this fashion shoot is peculiar. stylized floral patterns, bows, and ribbons. The An exaggerated, almost hyperbolic, emphasis on presence of fashion models in the photographs decorative vocabularies coded as "feminine" enlists us to read these pastel environments as creates a scene that hovers between lush fairyland not only modish backdrops but also complemen- and TechnicolorT movie set. One model occu- tary accoutrements to the models' attire and pies a room awash in shades of mauve and yellow, accessories. In other words, the space actively a pattern that extends to the walls, carpet, and participates in the construction of fashionable sculpted cherub (fig. i). Bright pink curtains are femininity. reflected in strategically placed mirrors, and rows The setting for the fashion spread was of yellow and white opaline glass complement the Gourielli's, an apothecary salon newly opened Helena Rubinstein. The elaborate Herb Room Marie Clifford is assistant in the of by J. professor Department and Gift Room were two Art History at Whitman College. only eye-popping Initial research for this article was supported by an ACLS/ features of what Vogue deemed a "fabulous new Luce Dissertation in American Art. The author Henry Fellowship shop."' Other themed rooms included paintings is grateful to Diane Moss, who granted access to the archives at the Helena Rubinstein Foundation, and to Elizabeth Waterman from Rubinstein's personal collection as well as for her generous and thoughtful assistance during visits to examples of colonial American glass and furni- the foundation. Roz Hammers and Wherland Ruty provided ture. Inviting Vogue into the premises was clearly invaluable help in myriad ways. For their excellent insights and comments on earlier versions of this article, the author thanks a shrewd publicity stunt, allowing for an adver- Albert Boime, Joan Clifford, Dennis Crockett, Melissa Dabakis, Meredith Goldsmith, Eric Segal, and especially Cecile Whiting. 1 c 2003 by The Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, "Scene at Gourielli's" and "Gourielli's New Shop," Vogue98 Inc. All rights reserved. 0084-0416/03/3823-0001 $3.00 (October i, 1941): 64-65, 118-19. 84 WinterthurPortfolio 38:2/3 Fig. 1. Herb Room in Gourielli's Apothecary Shop. Fig. 2. Gift Room in Gourielli's Apothecary Shop. From From "Scene at Gourielli's," Vogue 98 (October i, "Scene at Gourielli's," Vogue98 (October 1, 1941): 64. 1941): 64. (Photo ? Cond6 Nast Archive/CORBIS.) (Photo ? Cond6 Nast Archive/CORBIS.) tisement of the space in the guise of a fashion introduced a line of "cubist" lipstick.2) Although shoot. Yet the lavish setting, the unusual color she owned an eclectic range of paintings, sculp- schemes, and the show of Rubinstein's own ture, and furnishings, it was her modern art that artwork also serve to package this shop, or salon, she reserved for exclusive display in her commer- as a kind of art display, with the art acquisitions cial venues. symbolizing Rubinstein's entrepreneurial success Born Chaja Rubinstein in 1871, the future and the beauty services and goods for sale being cosmetics tycoon spent the first part of her life endowed with the status of art. Gourielli's was among Krakow's Jewish bourgeoisie. In 1894 she only the most recent of Rubinstein outlets to emigrated to Australia to live with relatives. The "sell" spectacular displays alongside beauty reason for such a drastic change remains obscure, products and services. From 1915, when she first although it is possible the move was an attempt to set up shop in New York on East Forty-ninth Street, to 1937, when she premiered a palatial 2 information is drawn from Helena Fifth Avenue salon chock full of artwork, Biographical Rubinstein, My Lifefor Beauty (New York: Simon and Schuster, 1965); Patrick Rubinstein's exclusive salons blurred the con- O'Higgins, Madame: An Intimate Biography of Helena Rubinstein ceptual boundaries among fashion, art galleries, (New York: Viking, 1971); Maxine Fabe, Beauty Millionaire: The and the domestic interior. Life of Helena Rubinstein(New York: Crowell, 1972); Elaine Brown Keifer, "Madame Rubinstein: The Little Lady from Kracow Has Throughout her sixty-year reign as "Madame," Made a Fabulous Success of Selling Beauty," Life 11, no. 3 (July the "Queen of Beauty," Rubinstein's fame as the 21, 1941): 45; T. F. James, "Princess of the Beauty Business," world's most successful businesswoman Cosmopolitan146 (June 1959): 38;Jo Swerling, "BeautyinJars and only Vials," New Yorker24,no. 22 (June 30, 1928): 20-23; Kathy Peiss, slightly surpassed her reputation as a voracious Hope in a Jar: The Making of America'sBeauty Culture (New York: collector. Her identity as an entrepreneur was Henry Holt, 1998); Lindy Woodhead, WarPaint: Helena Rubinstein intertwined with her investments in and ElizabethArden: Their Lives, TheirTimes, TheirRivalry (London: intricately Virago, 2003). The lipstick was advertised in Vanity Fair 31 artwork, especially modern art. (In 1929 she even (February 1929): 8. Rubinstein's Salons 85 increase her marriage prospects. After working a culture' to a remarkable extent.... Handicapped series of odd jobs, Rubinstein tried her hand at in pursuing standard business practices, they selling cosmetics. She invented a cr6me called resourcefully founded salons, beauty schools, Valaze that was so successful Rubinstein became correspondence courses, and mail-order compa- one of the continent's most famous business- nies; they pioneered the development of modern women by 1905. With the fortune and reputation franchising and direct-sales marketing strategies." she acquired in Melbourne, Rubinstein opened Similarly, in the 191os, women such as Elsie de establishments in Paris and London. While living Wolfe and Ruby Ross Wood parlayed women's in London in 1908, she married an American, amateur decorating work into a profession, Edward Titus, who in the 1920S would publish designing interiors but also marketing their This Quarter,a small literary magazine with ties to services as consultants with specialized skills.4 I the expatriate Americans and other artists who approach Rubinstein's enterprise in this vein. inhabited the Left Bank in Paris. As Rubinstein Rubinstein's salons constituted sites that symboli- acquired fame and success in the pre-World War I cally allowed her to articulate her business savvy in era, she began to collect art and to make the gendered ways, departing from reigning mascu- acquaintance of a number of artists. In 1908 she line models of executive authority. established her first Paris shop, inhabited Misia In this article, I examine the decor and art Sert's renowned artistic salon, and increasingly displays in Rubinstein's American beauty salons. centered her collecting activities on modern art.