Crystal-blue waters await at Smathers travel islAnd Time beach in .

no. 1 It’s Easier To Navigate Than You Think! A century ago last month, a railroad brought the first major wave of tourists to The Keys. These days, several Southern airports offer direct flights to Key West (EYW) and most offer daily flights to nearby and Fort Lauderdale (often the economical The South’s solution). It’s roughly a one-hour drive from Miami to (the northernmost Key), made easier than ever thanks to an improved stretch of the Keys Slice of Paradise (U.S. 1, affectionately known as the “18-mile Stretch”) connecting the mainland and The And it’s Key-lime flavored. The . From there, the two-lane Overseas Highway Keys are blissfully cool, quirky, and— connects the main islands (see map at left). It takes about three hours—longer on a weekend—to drive the barring Key West —largely undiscovered. 107-mile stretch of The Keys on U.S. 1. We recommend photograph: jennifer davick; illustration: kelly ryan Here, five reasons to visit now giving yourself a week to explore at a leisurely pace.

19by southernerin shaw living street february PHoTogrAPHs 2012 by robbie caponetto february 2012 southern living 19 travel island time no. 2 Friendly, Colorful Locals Most of The Keys’ 72,000 residents are noticeably like-minded, lured here for sunny views and the region’s independent spirit. They’re also often more than willing to engage in conversation with a stranger. (That would be you.) Michelle Mongelli

Will Soto

Captain richard Stanczyk

Mike forster

Michelle Mongelli Captain Richard Mike Forster Will Soto Resident since: Birth Stanczyk Resident since: 1984 Resident since: 1976 where you’ll find her: at Resident since: 1978 where you’ll find him: at where you’ll find him: at Hogfish Bar and Grill, which where you’ll find him: at mangrove mike’s Cafe, the the nightly sunset Celebration she owns with her husband, Bud n’ mary’s marina, the best breakfast spot in the Keys (he cofounded) in Key West’s Bobby. 6810 Front Street, Stock oldest fishing fleet in the Keys. (try the crab eggs Benedict). mallory square, where Will Island; hogfishbar.com or (He’s the owner.) 79851 Overseas 82200 Overseas Highway, juggles and walks a tightrope. 305/293-4021 Highway, Islamorada; budnmarys Islamorada; mangrovemikes.com the street fair attracts visitors tells visitors not to miss: .com or 305/664-2461 or 305/664-8022 from all over the world for the the mel Fisher maritime tells visitors not to miss: tells visitors not to miss: gorgeous sunsets. Just west of museum, home of treasure a full-day fishing expedition the Hurricane memorial (mile Wall Street, Key West; willsoto found on sunken ships. located in the sportfishing capital marker 81.5), which honors .net or 305/923-9196 at the corner of Whitehead and of the world (islamorada). those lost in the hurricane of tells visitors not to miss: Green streets. $12.50 adults, and it’s not just for the guys: 1935 and the devastation of the a day trip to the 19th-century $6.25 children. melfisher.org Bud n’ mary’s arranges special Keys as a whole. “the monu- Fort Jefferson at fishing clinics for women ment speaks to the spirit of national Park, accessible by and kids. the Keys. We’re hardy people.” boat and seaplane. nps.gov

thirty years ago this April, Key West residents staged a secession after the U.s. Border Patrol set up roadblocks that made it difficult for locals and travelers to get in and out. the border issue was resolved, but residents continue to refer to themselves as citizens of the . For $100, you can become an honorary Conch Republic citizen,

complete with a passport (conchrepublic.com). Just don’t try to present it to a tsa agent. rAlph Anderson pAssport: (4); cAponetto robbie

20 southern living february 2012 travel island time rooms at Hawks Cay resort start at $239.

Pines & Palms they’re friendly!). Owners no. 3 Resort, Jen and Harry de maria have Character-Rich Hotels & Resorts Islamorada created an eco-friendly travel experience at its best. why we love it: these don’t miss: Jen’s homemade If you want true Keys charm (friendly deer! 1960s-style 1960s bungalow-style units vegan breakfast. even the bungalows!), look no further than this handful of spots, are equipped with modern most devout carnivores agree: all experienced by our editors. (It’s a tough job...) amenities, so you get the best it’s delicious. Rooms start at of both worlds. $225. 1997 Long Beach , Big Kona Kai Resort, Hawks Cay Resort, don’t miss: the bicycles. Pine Key; deerrunfloridabb.com Gallery, and Botanic Rent one from the front desk or 305/872-2015 Gardens why we love it: Hawks Cay and explore the area ($5/day), or take in a sunrise at the end Key Largo is a great home base for a family Southernmost why we love it: the resort’s trip, and the hotel offers visitors of their dock. Efficiency rooms Hotel Collection, 11 rooms are nestled in a chance to swim with dolphins start at $149, villas at $569. 80401 Old Highway, Islamorada; Key West subtropical botanic gardens, and has an on-site program for why we love it: this group of pinesandpalms.com or where you can learn about kids and teenagers. four hotels is right in the middle 800/624-0964 the uses of tropical and native don’t miss: the Key lime of Old town, so you can easily plants cared for by their mojito Body treatment at the walk just about everywhere. on-site ethnobotanist. Calm Waters spa ($180). Cap Deer Run Bed & don’t miss: la mer Hotel don’t miss: the resort’s fine it off with one of the seven Breakfast, and dewey House, two art gallery, which houses varieties of mojitos served at Big Pine Key southernmost properties, international paintings and the alma Restaurant. (We like why we love it: its most are both turn-of-the-century sculpture. Rooms start at $269. the mango mojito, $12.) Rooms famous residents are the tiny homes. Rooms start at $229. 97802 Overseas Highway, start at $239. 61 Hawks Cay who roam the prop- 1319 Duval Street, Key West; Key Largo; kkresort.com or Blvd., Duck Key; hawkscay.com erty and will gladly visit with southernmostresorts.com or 800/365-7829 or 888/395-5539 you over morning coffee (yes, 800/354-4455 courtesy dAvid mccleAf

22 southern living february 2012 travel islAnd Time

Keys fisheries also has one tasty conch sandwich.

no. 4 Kermit’s Key Charming Lime Pie on a Stick is hand- Mom-and-Pop dipped in belgian Restaurants chocolate. The independent spirit of The Keys extends to its restaurants. Restaurateurs stone crabs are available only Key West Pink are particularly proud of october through may. if crabs Shrimp how they serve their fish. fresh coconuts outside aren’t in season, order the our pick: The Fish House, Conch & The Cuban Cafe (Each one seems to have conch sandwich. 102401 Overseas Highway, their own “special sauce.”) Key Largo; fishhouse.com or where all the locals eat, so you Don’t go home without Key Lime Pie 305/451-4665 know it’s good. trying these local flavors. our pick: mrs. mac’s Kitchen, native to the waters of 99336 Overseas Highway, The Keys, these succulent Conch Stone Crabs Key Largo; 305/451-3722 crustaceans are available year- round. Their bright pink color our pick: The Cracked Conch our pick: Keys Fisheries This is a tough one because is completely natural. And Cafe, 4999 Overseas Highway, market & marina, 3390 Gulf there are so many stellar once you taste their freshness, Marathon; conchcafe.com or View Avenue, Marathon; examples, but we love the tart you’ll be spoiled for life. 305/743-2233 keysfisheries.com or flavor and smooth consistency 866/743-4353 of the pie at mrs. mac’s, the Pronounced “konk,” it’s The Café Con Leche Keys’ most famous shell. its Keys Fisheries supplies longest-running restaurant tender white meat is found in miami beach’s Joe’s stone in Key largo. or, for a new our pick: Conch & The restaurants from Key largo to Crab restaurant with its spin on an old classic, try the Cuban Cafe, 1330 Simonton Key West, served fried, grilled, namesake delicacy. Here you frozen, chocolate-covered Street, Key West; 305/293-1352 in fritters, and in soup. We can watch fishermen come in Key lime Pie on a stick at since Cuba is just 90 miles love The Cracked Conch Cafe. with their hauls and eat crab Kermit’s Key West Key lime south of Key West, its flavors it’s nothing fancy, but it’s caught the very same day at shoppe (200 elizabeth street, can be found throughout The the market’s restaurant. it Key West; keylimeshop.com or Keys. order a café con leche doesn’t get fresher than that. 305/296-0806). both places (espresso mixed with steamed Just keep in mind: succulent also do mail order. milk) at this hole-in-the-wall.

legend has it that Key lime pie was invented in the late 1800s by a shipwreck salvager’s cook named Aunt sally. back then, refrigerated milk was tough to come by in The Keys, so she used condensed milk. To this day, condensed milk is still a main ingredient, but remember: Food coloring is not. True Key lime

robbie caponetto robbie pie is never green. even though the outsides of Key limes are green, their juice is pale yellow.

february 2012 southern living 25 travel island time

no. 5 explore pristine mangrove islands Activities from Dusk till Dawn in your own kayak.

Sure, you could linger in a hammock for three days at what goes into saving these straight (and there’s nothing wrong with that). But you’d majestic creatures. Proceeds miss out on activities you couldn’t do anywhere else— from the tour directly benefit at least not with these views. the program, which has saved more than 1,200 sea turtles in Paddle Through the Snorkel Alongside its 26 years. $15 adults, $7.50 Mangroves the Country’s Only ages 4-12. 2396 Overseas mangrove islands are home Living Coral Reef Highway, Marathon; turtle hospital.org or 305/743-2552 to thousands of species of fish, John Pennekamp Coral birds, and delicate critters. Reef state Park offers daily For the best view, rent a kayak Shop for Artisan snorkeling trips (no experience Souvenirs (or borrow one from your required). in two-and-a-half hotel; many keep them on hours, you’ll see parrot fish, the morada Way arts and property). even better, go brain and staghorn coral, Cultural district is made up on a tour. Our pick is Big Pine lobsters, and more. $30 adults, of a group of art galleries Kayak adventures, where $25 ages 18 and under, $9 gear featuring art from the Keys 30-year Keys resident Bill and all over the world. the rental. 102601 Overseas Highway, Keogh guides visitors through best time to go is the third Key Largo; pennekamppark.com the best Few bucks hidden passageways among thursday of the month, when You’ll spend! Visit or 305/451-6300 the trees, accompanied by locals gather at sunset for an Robbie’s of islamorada and his dog, scupper. (if you’re Visit a Motel Pool art-filled street party (81549 buy a $3 bucket of bait fish really adventurous, go on a Old Highway, mm 81.5, to feed friendly, 200-pound nighttime tour or a full-moon Full of Sea Turtles islamorada; moradawayarts.org). tarpons ($1/person fee). trip held three times a month.) located in a former 1940s-era also check out Bluewater it’s just as fun to watch $50 for a three-hour daytime motel, the turtle Hospital is Potters, run by Corky and Kim landlubbers shriek in delight! tour. 1791 Bogie Drive, Big Pine a haven for injured and sick Wagner. 102991 Overseas Robbie’s of Islamorada, Key; keyskayaktours.com or turtles. take a 90-minute tour Highway, Key Largo; bluewater 77522 Overseas Highway,

305/872-7474 for a behind-the-scenes look potters.com or 305/453-1920 Islamorada; robbies.com cAponetto robbie

26 southern living february 2012 check out more must-see activities at southernliving.com/fl-keys Just about the travel islAnd Time Tour a Museum adventures, $249; jetpack true southernmost geographi- most fun ever Devoted to Diving adventures.com or 305/294-2000). cal spot in the continental The History of diving United states is located at the museum in islamorada is a Take Yoga Classes truman annex, but it’s not quirky spot with one of the at a Bowling Alley open to the public.) largest collections of diving You read that right. islamorada’s memorabilia anywhere, Fish Bowl has 12 lanes, an Toast the Sunset including a stunning display arcade, and a yoga studio that with a Rum Runner of 50 rare helmets from hosts teachers from around Rum Runners are another Keys around the world. $12 adults, the world. strike! Or is that original. legend has it, the $6 ages 6-12, free for ages 5 and namaste? 83230 Overseas Holiday isle Resort tiki Bar— under. 82990 Overseas Highway, Highway, Islamorada; keysfish now known as the Postcard Islamorada; divingmuseum.org bowl.com or 305/664-9357 inn—was trying to get rid of or 305/664-9737 excess inventory, so they Snap a Photo at the dumped in light and dark rum, Fly Through the Air Southernmost Spot banana and blackberry liqueur, at 22 mph in the United States and more. For a truly authentic ones they have are spectacular. bahiahonda). thirty-eight miles The Jet lev Flyer is a $100,000 Yes, it is a tourist rite of passage experience, watch the sunset Bahia Honda state Park’s north of Bahia Honda is the contraption that lets users fly to have your photo taken in and try a Rum Runner where turquoise water stays warm spectacular anne’s Beach. through the air with a powered front of this famous buoy, but it all began, at the Postcard inn year-round, making it an take the time to pull over, pack strapped to their backs. it’s worth it because the line bar. 84001 Overseas Highway, ideal place to wade and watch dip your feet in the water, There are only a handful of is manageable. Plus it’s close Islamorada; holidayisle.com or shorebirds. snorkeling gear, and stroll on its secluded locations in the south to try to other points of interest, 305/664-2321 kayaks, and canoes are also boardwalk. and pack a picnic it. one is at Hawks Cay like the Key West Butterfly available for rent, and lunch—its pavilions offer some (sundance Jet lev, $249-$349; & nature Conservancy one Nearly Deserted on-site campgrounds let you of the best, inexpensive views experience.hawkscay.com or block away (1316 duval street, Beaches spend the night under the stars around. Anne’s Beach, MM Only in The Keys... 305/743-0145) and another Key West; www.keywest While the Keys aren’t known (36850 Overseas Highway, Big 73.5, ;

is in Key West (Jetpack this page and next: robbie caponetto butterfly.com). (note: the for their endless beaches, the Pine Key; floridastateparks.org/ Islamorada.

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