DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe

The All New Gemut.com The third version of www.gemut.com is now live on the WISMAR World Wide Web. In every way it is On Mecklenburg-Vorpommern’s Baltic seacoast, a proud old Hanseatic city has an improvement over previous ver- emerged from eastern Germany’s socialist GDR decades. sions. Our first website was unveiled in 1999. Given the technology of the any of us have learned you’re surrounded by a picture- time, it was a useful supplement to how to get oriented upon perfect ensemble of patrician town- the printed Gemütlichkeit, offering an first-time arrival in a Ger- houses and public buildings, archive of back issues and hotels. M man (or Austrian or Swiss) city. We cleaned-up and restored since the Though version two, launched in head to the Altstadt to find the cen- demise of neglectful GDR adminis- 2003, was an improvement in ap- tral marketplace, in- tration 16 years ago. Styles exempli- by Tom Bross pearance and functionality, those of variably a hub of activ- fy various episodes of local history: us who lived with the site on a daily ity, crossroads of the populace, and 14th-century North German red- basis quickly realized it was only a reliably handy for direction-finding. brick Gothic, Dutch Renaissance, stopgap. Wismar’s cobblestone-paved Mark- Baroque fanciness, 19th-century Ro- Enter, in 2005, executive editor platz suits the purpose, especially manesque Revival—and, for rather Nikki Goth Itoi, who proceeded to because you can’t miss this extra- severe contrast, the 1819 neoclassi- simultaneously pull-off two impor- wide open space, the biggest of its cal, low-slung Rathaus, which is tant projects, each taking about nine kind in northern Germany—measur- dramatically floodlit at night. Some- months. From the outset, creating a ing 100x100 meters, or two and a thing curious but cute stands new Gemut.com was Nikki’s half acres. amidst lamp posts on the square’s “baby.” She conceived the overall Once you’ve reached the plaza, southwest corner: a Dutch-de- site plan, hired and supervised web the urge to do some 360-degree pan- signed, wrought-iron Wasserkunst designers and developers, then man- oramic viewing is irresistible, since pumping station from 1602, topped aged site construction, content mi- Continued on page 3… gration, and the myriad other de- tails. It all came together at approxi- Swiss Relais & Chateaux mately 2:30pm PDT, on June 9 when she tapped a key on her laptop that Lydia Itoi’s winter weekend pig-out acres of vineyards near Morges, gave life to the new Gemut.com. at Michelin three-star restaurants (see was our favorite stay. The main The second undertaking was also last month’s story on top-end Swiss building is a 16th-century winery, her baby—literally. The day after restaurants, Rochat and Pont de where we were warmly wel- Gemut.com went live, Nikki entered Brent) also gave her the opportunity to comed. The atmosphere was a San Francisco hospital where her bunk-in at a pair of highly-rated Relais more old-world inn than modern first child, Emmett George Itoi, was & Chateaux hotels near Lausanne. hotel, but without the kitsch. It’s born, completing a remarkable dou- roperties bearing the Relais a family affair, run by Bernard ble. Much support, technical and & Chateaux label are never and Ruth Ravet and their three otherwise, was provided on both in the budget travel category, children, Ruth, Isabelle, and Guy. projects by Paul Itoi, her husband. P There are six rooms and three but frequently they are im- The new site looks better, works mensely charming, unique places suites, tastefully decorated in coun- better and faster, is simpler to navi- with a high standard of comfort try-chic reds and golds. We had reserved a regular room for CHF gate and find what you’re looking by Lydia Itoi and service. If you for, and has a lot more information. are going to splurge, 450, but we were given a courtesy And there is much, much more to it’s hard to do better. upgrade to a suite with high- come. We are adding stories every beamed, vaulted ceilings and a day. Here are some of the features L’Ermitage de Bernard Ravet view overlooking the tranquil duck we think you’ll find helpful. This beautifully appointed Continued on page 5… small restaurant/hotel, located in • Back issues. This archive is Exchange rates as of 06/30/2006 the shadow of the imposing pri- 1 euro = $1.28 Continued on page 2… vate chateau of Vufflens among 1 Swiss franc = $0.82 www.gemut.com July 2006 www.gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER www.travelessentials.com Access via significant expense that just eight the right-navigation of the main page Continued from page 1 years ago did not exist. and click on the required service. now entirely in PDF, a format that I won’t bore you with the finan- allows subscribers to download and • Deals and discounts. Check cial realities of publishing a niche print the issues in their original for- Gemut.com frequently for time- travel newsletter. Suffice to say, they mat. Right now that’s every back is- sensitive travel news and specials are harsh and the ranks have sue from January 1993 to July 2005, on car rental, air fare, cruise, and thinned considerably. Newsletters almost 13 years of Gemütlichkeit. (We hotel deals that have a short win- on England (four that I know of), don’t put back issues up on the site dow of opportunity. At press time, China, Switzerland, Italy, Ireland, until they are a year old.) First, log-in for example, we posted the special and the Caribbean, are gone. Con- as a subscriber (see the box on this summer rate offered by Munich’s sumer Reports Travel Newsletter, with page for log-in and password codes), Hotel Acanthus (see page 7). the most subscribers of any travel then click “Back issue archive” under • Other stuff. Want to know the newsletter in history, gave up the “Browse Travel Stories.” price of gas in Germany? Need to- ghost not long after 9/11. All that day’s value of the euro vs. the dollar? remain, that I am aware of, are La • Hotel Database/Reviews. This Belle France ($85 per year), Hideaway is an evolving feature but currently Both numbers can be found in the lower right hand corner of Report ($125 per year), Passport ($99 more than 1,100 hotels are listed per year) and Gemütlichkeit ($59). here. Most have links to the hotel’s Gemut.com’s main page. website and to an e-mail form to We’re loading more content on a Don’t mistake this as a “poor request info or a make a reservation daily basis and have plans for online me” cry; we’ve done well. But with- directly with the hotel. About 500 polls, forums, subscriber hotel re- out the supplementary income from have written descriptions, and more views, and a lot more. the travel services we provide — car rental, rail passes, air tickets, cruise will be added. Clicking “Hotel Re- • Advertisers. Here, I’d like to bookings, itinerary planning — views” at the top of the Gemut.com make a somewhat delicate point. In page takes you to the hotel database Gemütlichkeit could not exist at its the almost 20 years of Gemütlichkeit, Continued on page 8… page and from there you can search we have never raised our annual Using Gemütlichkeit by country, city or price level, or rate to an existing subscriber. Rest combinations thereof. Alternatively, • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are assured, today’s new subscribers often available for longer stays. you can type any search criteria — shell out more than those who joined • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise city, hotel name, etc. — in the key- us in the late 80s; but those 80s and noted. word box at the top of the page. 90s subscribers are still offered their • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- • Travel Services. Order rail pass- original price at renewal. Yes, the ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, es online (target date on this is the number of issues per year was re- do not dial the first “0”. duced to 10, but a one-year renewal end of July), obtain a car rental or air Logging on to Our Website fare quote, reserve hotel rooms almost still costs the same as it did 20 years Back issues in PDF format from January 1993, except for anywhere in Europe with our Venere ago. In those 20 years, postage — by the most recent 10, are available free to subscribers only at hotel booking engine, or purchase far our biggest expense — has virtu- www.gemut.com (click on “Members”). To access the guidebooks and maps, luggage, travel ally doubled. The cost of paper, issues, enter the user name and password published in this space each month. The new codes are: clothing and gear at 10 to 20% off by printing and travel, too, are all sub- wizr 5920 using the discount code gemut2006 at stantially higher. Gemut.com is a User Name: Password:

Vol. 20, No. 6 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY July 2006 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers:Robert Robert H. H.& Elizabeth& Elizabeth S. S. Bestor Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Executive Editor:Robert Nikki H. Goth Bestor Itoi Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors:Senior Writer:Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Jim JohnsonJohnson Adequate 4 - 7 WebContributors: Master: Tom Bross,Paul Roland T. Merschdorf Reimann Unacceptable 0 - 3 ConsultingConsulting Editor: Editor: Thomas Thomas P. P. Bestor Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale SubscriptionOnline Services: Dept: Kurt Kurt Steffans Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 SubscriberSubscriber Travel Travel Services: Services: Andy Andy Bestor, Bestor, Laura Laura Riedel Riedel Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 10 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make Special G Designation no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 July 2006 www.gemut.com

by a curved bell roof. Wismar Basics harbor facilities and the north-side But Alter Schwede, a 1380’s Population: 45,414 Haffeld industrial district near the mansion-turned-restaurant (in 1878), Elevation: 2 meters (6.5 feet) docks, where the Norddeutschen Dornier-Werke manufactured DO 17 steals the show. Its six-tiered step- Town charter: 1229 planes for Hermann Göring’s Luft- gabled façade sports dark-red brick- Visitor Information: Tourist-Information work in a filigreed pattern, accentu- Wismar, Am Markt 11, 23966 Wismar, tel. waffe. Turnerweg’s winery cellars ated—for extra ornamentation— +49/03841/194 33, fax 03841/251 3091, became a neighborhood air-raid with black glazed klinker bricks. [email protected], www.wismar.de shelter. Ironically, twin-engine Driving Distances: Dorniers blitzed London earlier dur- Red-Brick High-Rises Hamburg 112 km 69 miles ing World War II. More irony: Soviet Lübeck 53 km 33 miles A quartet of mammoth, centu- troops used the flattened Haffeld ries-old brick church structures, Rostock 45 km 28 miles Schwerin 30 km 18 miles grounds as a Cold War shooting “built sky-high to reach heaven,” Stralsund/Rügen 150 km 93 miles range prior to their departure 13 looms a few blocks from the market- Berlin 250 km 155 miles years ago. place. Reconstruction of war-ruined The long-awaited completion of the full St. Georgen began six years ago, stretch of the A-20 Autobahn took place This northerly destination belongs with four more needed for expected last December. Extending east-west near on the agenda of any traveler who Mecklenburg-Vorpommern’s Baltic (Ost- enjoys experiencing Germany's diver- completion. The same wartime fate see) coast between Lübeck and Greif- befell St. Marien, after which—in swald, it makes access to Wismar from sity. A rich seafaring legacy and im- 1960—its gutted shell was dynamit- both directions much speedier. To quick- posing red-brick architectural land- ed by GDR officials intent upon “po- ly reach the city from Berlin, take the A- marks make it a memorable stop. 24, then the A-241 via lakeside Schwerin. litical correctness.” What remains is Rail: Regional Express from Berlin (2 Wismar Hotels the 80-meter-(262-ft.)-tall, peaked- hours, 57 minutes), Regional Express roof Glockenspiel tower, still Wis- with InterCity connection from Hamburg Steigenberger Stadt Hamburg mar’s dominating medieval land- (1 hour, 32 minutes), and Regional Ex- A respectable 19th-century Gasthof mark. In Heilige-Geist-Kirche, Ba- press with InterCity connection from Frankfurt am Main (5 hours, 15 minutes). became a first-class hotel in 1953, roque paintings of Old Testament leading ultimately to Steigenberger Air: Lübeck-Blankenese and Rostock- scenes adorn the ceiling and altar. Laage are the nearest airports. partnership four decades later. That Fortunately untouched by air raids, Guided Sightseeing: Two-hour Wismar was a smart corporate move, for th 14 -century St. Nikolai draws ad- Entdecken (Discovery) city tours (€4 per Wismar was then on the cusp of a mirers to its 37-meter-(121-ft.)-high adult) are comprehensive and insightful. visitor upsurge, and its solidly built nave, supported by flying buttresses Book at Wismar Tourist Information. four-star property overlooks the and illuminated by a dazzling rose Major Events in 2007: sprawling marketplace from a cor- window. • Wismarer Hafentage (international “tall ships” in the harbor; seafood, music, ner vantage point. Above the skylit There’s a good-enough reason for entertainment), June 8–10 lobby, all 102 guestrooms are spa- all this architectural flamboyance. In • Folklore Festival, July 19–22 cious and airy; hallways are carpet- • Swedish Festival in the Altstadt, Aug. 17–19 th ed in blue. A Finnish sauna is on the the early 13 century, a founding • Kunstverein Arts & Crafts Market in membership in the Hanseatic Wismar’s Town Hall, December 15–16 premises; as are an amiable cafè and League of seafaring merchants made Am Markt, a classy wine restaurant. World Heritage Sites. Wismar an economic boom town. Its Though used mainly for private bayfront harbor on the deep-water Where Karstadt Began group functions, the hotel’s 14th- Wismarbucht bustled with northern If you have an urge to go shop- century barrel-vaulted Bierkeller is European shipping trade. The Hansa ping, slim pickings locally mean worth mentioning, too. city also belonged to Sweden for two you’re better off in Lübeck or Ros- Daily Rates: Singles €81–115 , dou- and a half centuries beginning in tock. Nevertheless, a few small spe- bles €104–135 1648. While strolling around, watch cialty stores can be found on the Contact: Steigenberger Hotel Stadt for large cartoonish Schweden- sloping Krämerstrasse pedestrian Hamburg, Am Markt 24, 23966 Wis- köpfe, sculpted heads depicting lane, lined with beautiful step-ga- mar, tel. +49/03841/2390, fax 03841/ black-mustached Swedish noblemen, bled buildings. A modest-size 239 239, [email protected], warily surveying local goings-on. Karstadt department store stands at www.wismar.steigenberger.de. the Krämerstrasse/Lübsche Strasse In the Town Hall’s vaulted Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 15/20 intersection. It is, in fact, the well- Rathauskeller, Bilder einer Stadt ex- known chain’s head office; Rudolph Hotel Alter Speicher hibits, artifacts, prints and photos Karstadt established his retail em- give museum-goers a crash course in This cluster of six buildings func- pire right here in Wismar in 1881. urban and regional history. The em- tioned during bygone times as mer- phasis proudly focuses on Innenstadt Allied aircraft made it to Wismar chant’s residence, warehouse, sta- Wismar’s and Stralsund’s co-desig- in the spring of 1945 with two pri- bles, and hayloft. Now, after labori- nation four years ago as UNESCO mary targets in their bombsights: the ous top-to-bottom renovation, guests

Gemütlichkeit 3 July 2006 www.gemut.com

can settle into recommendable harbor inlet, directly adjacent to the cious service of Alter Schwede. After four-star accommodations with the historic step-gabled brick custom gazing at the marvelous exterior, convenience of being merely two house. The 40-room hotel, opened in choose an umbrella-shaded outdoor short blocks from the Marktplatz. 1966, is by no means remote in com- table or step inside. Old World at- Each of 75 rooms has its own size, pact Wismar; walking time to the mospherics include scale-model layout, and decor. Amenities in- city center amounts to just 10 min- Hanseatic sailing ships dangling clude sauna, solarium, courtyard utes or so. No-frills sleeping and from ceiling timbers, brickwork ga- terrace, and an underground ga- bathroom quarters are snug and lore, paintings, vintage photos, and a rage. The Felsengrotte beer and frugal. Both bistro and restaurant are massive fireplace. Multilingual Ger- wine cellar is well-stocked; thick gemütlich hangouts. Weather permit- man-English menus prove that the wooden beams augment the rustic ting, you can order meals and drinks introverted GDR days are long gone. charm of the two-level Galerieres- on the wind-sheltered courtyard. Seafood selections (€8.80–12.80) an- taurant To’n Ossen, specializing Daily Rates: Singles €46–67, doubles chor the menu. For alternatives, con- in regional Mecklenburg cooking. €62–82. sider the Rippenbraten with red cab- bage (€11.80) or Mecklenburg duck Daily Rates: Singles €66–105, dou- Contact: Hotel Am Alten Hafen, stuffed with prunes, apples, and bles €90–140, breakfast extra, €11. Spiegelberg 61–65, 23966 Wismar, raisins (€13.80). Contact: Hotel Alter Speicher, Bohr- tel. +49/03841/4260, fax 03841/426 strasse 12 & 12A, 23966 Wismar, tel. 666, [email protected], Contact: Restaurant Alter Schwede, +49/03841/211 746, fax 03841/211 www.hotel-am-alten-hafen.de. Am Markt 19, 23966 Wismar, tel. 747, info-wismar@hotel-alter- Rating: QUALITY 11/20, VALUE 13/20 +49/03841/283 552, fax 03841/283 speicher.de, www.hotel-alter- 588. Other Accommodations speicher.de. . Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 17/20 Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE 15/20 Ask at the tourist office about Pensionen and Gästezimmer availabil- Zum Weinberg Hotel Altes Brauhaus ities in the Altstadt and vicinity. You might be surprised to come One of the city’s old prewar Such family-run establishments are upon not one but two superior-class breweries operated out of a circa- plentiful. If you have a car, reason- restaurants in such a small, ex-GDR 1550 structure, about midway be- ably priced beach and lake resorts city. Alter Schwede’s worthy rival, tween the St. Marien and Heilige- beckon, too. Wohlenberg and Bolt- occupying a narrow 14th-century Geist churches. Now, under Marion enhagen are venerable beachfront Renaissance edifice replete with Willert’s ownership, we have a resort communities on Wismar’s black oak woodwork, stained-glass three-star hotel, entered by way of western outskirts. Not far south of windows, and painted rafters, has green and white fan-windowed dou- town, Mecklenburg-Western Pomer- been serving food and wine since ble doors for access to a reception anian countryside pleasures include 1575. Narrowness results in intima- area where ivy plants cling to ex- lake resorts on the Neuklostersee. cy, both at street level and on the posed brick walls. Fourteen gues- East of Wismar, the Rügen-like is- upstairs balcony. The Mixdorf fami- trooms, each with flower-filled win- land of Poel attracts travelers to ly, in charge since 1997, runs the dow boxes, are modestly propor- waterfront lodgings in picturesque place with obvious affection and tioned but kept impeccably clean. old thatched-roofed fishing villag- expertise. Indulge in a seafood meal € Zum kleinen Mönch, the onsite es—notably Timmendorf and ( 8.90–14.90) or a mecklenburgisch € restaurant, is a citywide favorite. A Kirchdorf. meat speciality ( 8.30–13.30). separate Fruhstücksraum features Contact: Restaurant Zum Weinberg, th Wismar Restaurants 18 -century Baroque paintings on its Hinter dem Rathaus 3, 23966 Wis- wood-paneled ceiling. Many of Wismar’s chefs habitual- mar, tel. +49/03841/283 550, fax Daily Rates: Singles €45–50, doubles ly browse the harborside fish market 03841/226 963, €70–85 each Saturday because seafood comes [email protected], Contact: Hotel Altes Brauhaus, Lüb- with the territory. Scan menus for www.weinberg-wismar.de. . such fresh delicacies as Schollen sche Strasse 37, 23966 Wismar, tel. Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 18/20 (flounder), Heilbutt (halibut), Brather- +49/03841/211 416, fax 03841/211 Brauhaus am Lohberg 418, [email protected], ing (fried, marinated herring) and the truly Baltic-Germanic Rollmops varia- A harborfront mini-“restaurant www.brauhaus-wismar.com. tion (pickled herring). From nearby row” includes this half-timbered Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 14/20 Mecklenburg lake country comes just- Fachwerk survivor from 1452 (when Hotel Am Alten Hafen as-fresh Seehecht (pike). 183 full-fledged breweries thrived in If you are cost-conscious and Wismar and vicinity). In what was Alter Schwede feeling “seaworthy,” this three-star handsomely transformed into a ca- option with its colorful window Admirers come from afar to en- sual house brewery five and a half shutters stands right on the edge of a joy the cuisine and unfailingly gra- centuries later, patrons can choose

Gemütlichkeit 4 July 2006 www.gemut.com

from six different kinds of beer— there is a cigar lounge. and Vevey and 44 miles from Gene- accompanied by heaping portions of L’Ermitage specializes in serv- va airport, it was our base while food. For instance: stewed Sauer- ing as a base camp for outdoorsy visiting Pont de Brent. Unofficial fleisch with fried potatoes (€8) and fun—hiking, biking, sailing, fishing, hotel parking is in the main square. beer-doused goulasch with Mecklen- hunting, waterskiing, even polo. We were instructed to put the hotel burg-style dumplings (€8.30). There is a children’s program avail- brochure on the dashboard and hope Among tasty fish-and-salad-and- able, and a golf course eight miles for the best, since the local cops usu- potato dishes are a sea bass fillet away. However, in February, only ally don’t ticket hotel guests. A re- (€9.50) and sea salmon (€9.10). eating and chilling out sounded freshingly laid-back attitude for Contact: Brauhaus am Lohberg, appealing, although we did take a Switzerland, we thought. Kleiner Hohe Strasse 15, Wismar, tel. walk through the vineyards and the Inside, the décor is classical ele- +49/03841/250 238, fax 03841/282 village. (The impressive chateau is a gance verging on the formal for a 888, [email protected], private residence, but it can be en- provincial inn, all creams and blond www.brauhaus-wismar.de. joyed from the outside.) A fire was woods and panelled ceilings hung Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE 16/20 blazing in the old stone fireplace, with chandeliers. Service was again and comfortable chairs and a well- friendly and welcoming, extending Reuterhaus stocked humidor invited us to lin- even to pets. The main surprise was Facing the marketplace from its ger. A small bodega in the reception that no room in the hotel seems to street-corner location, this high-ga- offers treats from the highly regard- have a view of the lake, even though bled building—nicely done up in ed kitchen as well as the award- it is only a few steps away. (There is lemon yellow with white trim- winning house wines. a building in between, blocking the mings—has a 300-year history and Unfortunately, we were only able view.) Since it directly fronts the began its existence as a distin- to put the kitchen through its paces main square of this small but rather guished restaurant in 1849. Two for breakfast. It’s a cozy affair, served elegant town, the setting does not cozy dining rooms feature the origi- fireside in the tearoom lounge. There feel like a country inn. nal hand-carved dark furnishings were about 20 tiny bowls filled with a There are seven rooms for CHF and paneling, plus walls decorated mini smorgasbord of fruits, cereals, 350 and two suites at CHF 490–580, with rows of blue Delft tiles and and yogurts, as well as slices of artisa- which includes a hearty breakfast. evocative pictures of prewar Wis- nal processed meats and a selection of Each room is different, named for mar. Well-prepared, graciously local cheeses. The restaurant has two the famous people that have patron- served meat and seafood dinners Michelin stars and consistently places range from €14.50–20. Key Websites for the Traveler at the top of the “Top 100” list of best Contact: Reuterhaus, Am Markt 19, • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to restaurants in Switzerland, so we’ll be Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, Wismar, tel. +49/03841/222 30, fax sure to grab a bite there next time. hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips, and 03841/222 324. (You can read editor Bob Bestor’s past issues (free access to back issues for subscrib- Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE 15/20 ers; see log-on info on page 2). review of his weekend at L’Ermitage • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of Konditorei Favorites des Ravet at www.gemut.com. Under hotels and restaurants, plus great interactive trip For Kafeee und Kuchen, breakfast, “Browse Travel Stories,” click “Read planning tools light luncheon: Café Lissi (Grosss- about Switzerland,” and then click • www.travelessentials.com Guidebooks, maps, “Switzerland Restaurants.”) travel accessories, luggage, all at 10 percent off for chmiedestrasse 1); Caféhaus No. 15 subscribers. Use discount code gemut2006. (Lübsche Strasse 15); Café Hegede Contact: L’Ermitage de Bernard • www.webflyer.com Informative frequent-flyer (Am Markt 5); Café & Rösterei Es- Ravet, Route du Village, 26 Vufflens- forums make this a must for air travelers pecial (Sargmacherstrasse 8), Zur le-Chateau, tel. +41/0218/046 868, • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail Reblaus (Neustadt 9). fax 022 240, website, with train schedules throughout Europe, as well as Germany [email protected], RELAIS & CHATEAUX • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European www.ravet.ch; closed Sunday and Continued from page 1 rail schedules Monday and at Christmas. • www.ski-europe.com Top Web resource for pond. The room was furnished with Daily Rates: Doubles CHF 450 skiers with much data on Alpine resorts • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzer- antiques, including a doll-filled vin- Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE 17/20 tage baby carriage and an old picnic land’s national tourist authority table. The bathroom had a tiled show- Auberge du Raisin • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national Auberge du Raisin is another tourist authority er and a rather old-fashioned toilet, all • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national charmingly appointed for a weekend well-appointed Relais & Chateau tourist authority in the country. But for die-hard road restaurant/hotel where we missed • www.historicgermany.com Website for an warriors, the hotel is also equipped the eats but enjoyed the sleep. Locat- alliance of historic German cities with wireless Internet access through- ed in the heart of the lakeside resort • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on electronic de- out. Rooms are non-smoking, but town of Cully, between Lausanne vices used by travelers — cell phones, computers, etc.

Gemütlichkeit 5 July 2006 www.gemut.com

ized the inn over the years. Ours was Meran in the Südtirol, the Ger- the way. a spacious corner room with a large, man-speaking part of northern This is special place. We will airy white bathroom with a big bath- Italy. return. tub. High windows with stately lace This area belonged to Austria WILLIAM H. WOOD III curtains overlooked the main street, prior to World War I and is still and there was plenty of space for a more Austrian than Italian. Every HOBE SOUND FL comfortable cream-colored sofa and sign is printed in both languages, Rochat Dissenter chairs. The queen-sized bed was and where we stayed (Algund/ luxuriously furnished with a heavy I read with interest (and aston- Lagundo) the German language, ishment) the June issue’s review of tapestry duvet. Some rooms have customs and dress prevail. The beamed ceilings and fireplaces, so it Restaurant Philippe Rochat in entire area around Meran is very Crissier. About five years ago, we pays to ask to view the rooms while historic with more castles than any checking in. Modem connections, had the pleasure of dining at Chez other area in Europe. Some nota- Rochat, fascinated with the concierge, and babysitting services bles include Schloss Juval and are available. thought of returning to the venue Churburg. Juval is owned by Rein- over which Fredy Girardet had In addition to summer outdoor hold Messner, the first person to presided in the 1980s. Our evening activities, the hotel offers cooking climb Mt. Everest without oxygen. in 1985 at Girardet had been as classes with chef Adolfo Blokbergen. The Pünthof is the best hotel good as it gets. The fare was every The restaurant is on the ground floor of any trip to Europe and this bit as good as the best we’ve had directly off the reception and is was our 14th. It is a converted and probably better. That includes known for its classic cuisine and farmhouse that has seen 400 a myriad of places, including good wine list featuring both French years of Wolf family ownership. Taillevent and other three-star and rare local vintages. Menu prices Alex and Gertrude Wolf, the gems. What stood out was the am- range from CHF 89–198. present owners, both speak good bience and the sheer level of un- A lavish breakfast is included English. She handles most of the pretentious pleasure; only Trois- and was served in the cheerful rear inside activities and he the out- gros (which was great fun) came dining room at large round tables side. He was on the Italian bob- close in that respect. overlooking a small terrace patio. sled team at the Lake Placid and Our 2001 visit to Rochat came We were checking out early to Calgary Winter Olympics. about a week after a meal at Marc drive to the airport, but they There are 12 very attractive Veyrat’s lakeside retreat in Veyrier, whipped up plates of eggs, cheese rooms in the main building and a France. Our visit to M. Veyrat’s res- and country sausages, pastries and few cottages around the grounds. taurant was extraordinary in all jam as well as coffee and fresh- We had the first floor tower respects, partially due to the setting squeezed orange juice right away. room with large fireplace and on the western side of Lake Annecy There was also a warm bowl of huge chandelier and loved it. and certainly due to the highly un- rustic muesli and dried fruit to The two breakfast rooms are usual fare. La Maison de Marc ward off the chill. This was the very attractive and when the Veyrat was a very tough act to fol- perfect send-off after a marathon weather is warm one can sit out- low and, in our opinion, Rochat gourmet weekend in the Vaud. side on a terrace overlooking a didn’t come close. Contact: Auberge du Raisin, 1, Place beautiful, landscaped yard, gar- In most respects, Rochat earned de l’Hotel-de-Ville, CH-1096 Cully, den gazebo, pool with snack bar, his three-star status. What was tel. +41/021/799 21 31, fax 799 25 01, and the mountains beyond. missing, however, was personali- [email protected], open all We got a 5% discount because ty. When Girardet ran the show, year. of the length of our stay, but can’t the restaurant had great spirit and Daily Rates: Doubles CHF 350, figure out why the prices are so a wonderful feeling of enjoyment. suites CHF 89–198 low. Per person room rate range in With Rochat in charge, however, the Ratings: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE 14/20 price from €48 to €59, including restaurant has become sterile. On breakfast and all taxes. The holi- paper, it gets the grades. But in per- Readers’ Forum day apartments with kitchen facili- son, there’s definitely something ties — two to four rooms plus bath missing. At this level, one should Südtirol Find — are priced for two persons at expect outstanding food AND an We just stayed 18 nights at the €72 to €89 per night. Breakfast is outstanding experience. We wonderful Hotel der Pünthof (I- not included and extra persons are couldn’t have been more bored. The 39022 Algund bei Meran, Steinach- €10 per night. only clue to the possibility of the str. 25 Via Steinach, tel. +39/0473/ The drive from the Munich latter was Lydia’s reference to 448553, fax 449919, info@puenthof, Airport to Algund is about three “hushed Swiss formality.” Her re- www.puenthof.com), very near and one-half hours, Autobahn all view needed to go beyond the food Gemütlichkeit 6 July 2006 www.gemut.com

to the total experience and, unfortu- with very long flights (10-12 hours). country used euros. When I arrived nately, it really did not. Arthritis and other problems get in from Poland I had a meager amount the way. of euros and expected to get money RUSSELL WAYNE with my ATM card. Lo and behold, VIA E-MAIL Is there a way to break up a long flight to Europe into shorter seg- no ATM machine of any bank in Rochat Supporter ments, with stops of 2-3 hours, with- Lithuania would take my ATM card. Someone loaned me a copy of out horrible connections (such as in It just said that it would not connect your fine newsletter so that I could London)? Some have suggested a with my bank or something to that read Ms. Itoi’s review. I found it break in Iceland, but that requires an effect. Fortunately I did have travel- directly on the mark with respect to overnight stay. Travel via the Ca- er’s checks and was able cash them Philippe Rochat. My wife and I nary Islands? Other approaches? without having to pay an excessive have spent more money dining in charge. When I got back to Poland, DAVID BORCK Michelin two and three-star estab- my ATM card worked perfectly lishments throughout Europe than I ARLINGTON HEIGHTS, IL again. care to think about. I’m somewhat Swabian Castle RUSSELL N. SACCO ashamed to admit that in the last 30 Enjoyed your tour of the Swa- VIA E-MAIL years, we’ve gotten to most of them. bian Alb in the June issue. I have The obviously talented Ms. Itoi is seen most of these places while News/Deals right-on when she says Michelin visiting with relatives nearby and tends to look the other way when its your calls are right on the money. ■ Hotel Specials: This sum- fabled three-star restaurants begin to One place not mentioned, and not mer, 11 hotels in Bern have agreed to slip, especially if they are in France. on the route you took, but still run 3 for 2 specials, for a savings of Michelin seems to hold restaurants within the Swabian Alb, is in the CHF 70-210 on standard double and in Switzerland and, in particular, vicinity of Göppingen, the capitol single rooms. For example, the Best Germany, to a higher standard. of the Holy Roman Empire under Western Hotel Bären, a comfortable Rochat’s rating is deserved. Its food Friedrich Barbarossa. The view business-style hotel in the city center and ambience surpass the Girardet I from his ancient castle ruins, Ho- is offering standard doubles for CHF knew (years before the third star was henstaufen, of the foothills and 231, for a savings of CHF 98. The lost in 1997): which was more a place other castles on neighboring hills Innere Enge, a Gemütlichkeit top pick to brag about having been to than a is worth a detour. among Bern hotels, has doubles for serious restaurant attracting a clien- CHF 235, amounting to a savings of tele of knowledgeable food lovers, ROGER JONES CHF 125. Check the full hotel listing which, in my view, Rochat does. ROOMALL B , PA and rate table under special offers at I have bypassed Pont de Brent Saved by Travelers Checks the Bern tourism website: http:// on the advice of Swiss friends and In a recent issue you strongly www.berninfo.com/en now your publication has confirmed endorsed using ATMs as the pre- ■ their wisdom. Summer Deal in Munich: A fa- ferred method of changing money. I vorite Munich hotel of Gemütlichkeit ROBERT FORBES MERRIWEATHER certainly agree. As always, however, readers, the pleasant 36-room Acan- NEW YORK, NY the adage of not putting your eggs in thus (An Der Hauptfeuerwache 14, one basket applies. In September Munich, tel. +49/089/23 18 800, fax Opposes East Coverage 2003, my wife and I were in Switzer- 26 07 364, [email protected] , Although I respect reader Tom land when hurricane Isabelle struck www.acanthushotel.de) has an- Reese’s request for coverage of Po- the U.S. East Coast. Financial com- nounced a July and August special land, Czech Republic, et al, it seems munications apparently were dis- rate of €75 for single rooms and €95 to this longtime subscriber that there rupted, and we and other Americans for doubles. The price includes all remain countless destinations within we met found that our ATM card taxes plus buffet breakfast. Germany, Austria, and Switzerland would not work. The machines were that are yet to covered. unavailable for about four days. On a somewhat relatively quiet, Fortunately, we carried some travel- tree-lined street, steps from the BILL POLCARI ers checks, as well as credit cards. Sendlinger Tor and a 10-minute MEDFORD MA walk to the Marienplatz via pedes- (Editor’s note: Such as this month’s JEFFREY MYERS-HAYER trian-only Sendlingerstrasse, the lead story, Wismar.) ALEXANDRIA VA Acanthus is located in a neighbor- hood of interesting shops and res- Breakup Long Flights Travelers Checks Save Again taurants. The main railway station is This might be a subject worth On a recent trip to Lithuania. I also about a 10-minute walk. discussion. didn’t have any local currency be- Two categories of guestrooms are Some travelers have difficulty cause I erroneously thought the Gemütlichkeit 7 July 2006 www.gemut.com

DEAR SUBSCRIBER becoming, at least for a brief time, the world’s most expensive paint- We Recommend Continued from page 2 ing. It now hangs in New York’s This listing of good value, mid-priced hotels in popular current price — and probably not at New Gallery instead of Vienna’s destination cities is intended for fast reference. Additional all, since to raise the annual rate to hotels and links to hotel websites is in the Hotel Review Belvedere Palace, where it had sections at www.gemut.com. Hotels are arranged in price Hideaway Reports/La Belle France been for six decades. It and other order, higher to lower. Berlin levels would put it beyond the reach Klimt paintings were seized dur- of most current subscribers. The fact Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, fax 327 ing the war from a small town in 744 40, [email protected], www.hotelartnouveau.de is, these other activities subsidize Czechoslovakia by the infamous Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. +49/030/ 882041, fax 882 0410, [email protected] Gemütlichkeit. So when you refer a Nazi SS officer, Reinhard Hey- neighbor to our car rental service Bern drich, and wound up in Vienna. Hotel Bristol, Schauplatzgasse 10, CH-3011, tel. +41/31/311 0101, you help maintain the price of fax 311 9479, email [email protected] Gemütlichkeit at its current level. After a long legal battle, the Aus- Hotel Kreuz, 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 9595, trian government finally restored fax 329 95 96, [email protected] Gemut.com is a vital element in “Adele” and four other Klimts to a Lucerne the strategy which we hope in the Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. Los Angeles woman, Maria Alt- +41/041/2101666, fax 2101629, [email protected] years to come will keep our business mann, the 90-year old niece of the Hotel Cascada, 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/ on a sound financial basis. Though it original owner, who then sold 226 80 88, fax 226 80 00, [email protected] doesn’t begin to at this point, the goal Munich “Adele” to Ronald Lauder, a billion- Hotel Exquisit, Pettenkoferstr. 3, tel. +49/089/ 551 99 0, fax 551 99 is for the website to pay for itself, aire Estee Lauder heir and a former 499, [email protected]. even generate a profit. That will allow ambassador to Austria. Hotel Acanthus, An Der Hauptfeuerwache 14, D- 80331 us to continue to offer the printed München, tel. +49/089 / 23 18 80, fax: 2 60 73 64, e-mail: ■ Beer Tour: Organizers of “Bierfest [email protected] newsletter at its current price, and to Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24, fax 550 3856, build and maintain a first-rate website 2006” tout it as a tour for beer lovers [email protected] to service the Germany, Austria and who like a little culture with their Rothenburg ob der Tauber beer. The September 25-October 3 Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber, Switzerland traveler. Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, package includes visits, and of [email protected] All this is background to explain course tastings, at some of the most Hotel Hornburg, Hornburgweg 28, D-91541, tel. +049/09861/ why you will see discreet ads for Eu- famous Central European breweries 8480, fax 5570, [email protected], ropean travel services on most pages www.hotelhornburg.de of Austria, Czech Republic and Ger- Salzburg & Environs of the new site. When you click on an many, including Augustiner Bräu, Schloss Haunsperg , A-5411 Oberalm bei Hallein, Hammerstrasse 32, tel. +43/06245/80662, fax 85680, [email protected] ad we make a few cents. When you Aktienbräu, Pilsner Urquell, Bud- book a hotel we make a couple of Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. var, and Hofbräu. Following Frank- +43/0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, [email protected] bucks (literally). When you buy a rail furt arrival (air not included) the Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. +43/0662/ 873241-0, fax 873241-9, [email protected] pass online we get a small percentage. tour begins in Bayreuth, then visits We thus encourage you to support Vienna Pilzen in the Czech Republic, fol- Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 our advertisers, and to purchase trav- lowed by Prague, Ceske Budejovice, 77 51 0, fax 512 77 51 13, [email protected]. Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, fax 523 el services via the website. It is a way Salzburg, Berchtesgaden, the An- to help assure the survival of Gemütli- 4901, [email protected], web: www.altstadt.at dechs Monastery brewery, and fin- Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 8330, chkeit and Gemut.com. ishing in Munich with lunch at the fax 512 8330 6, [email protected] Zürich And finally, if you notice any Oktoberfest. The $1,850 land-only Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 41/01/ malfunctions, links that don’t link, per person price includes three-star 261 4470, fax 261 4611, [email protected] typographical errors, inconsisten- Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. accommodations, deluxe motor- +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932, [email protected] cies, and imperfections, we’d be coach, and most meals. Contact Frankfurt Airport grateful if you’d let us know at Herzerl Tours, 800-684-8488 or visit Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, CargoCity Süd, D- [email protected] — RHB 60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, frankfurt@esprix- www.herzerltours.com. hotels.de ■ Hazy Concept: A German entrepre- Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, tel. NEWS/DEALS +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, [email protected] (25- neur says he will start an all-smoking Continued from page 7 minute drive from airport) airline. Smintair (Smoker's Interna- Hotel Dreieich, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. +49/ offered, Rustikana and Alba-Rose. tional Airways) plans to allow smok- 06103/91 50, fax 52 030. [email protected] Guests staying more than a night or Munich Airport ing on its 747 flights from Düsseldorf Daniel’s Hotel, Haupstrasse 11, Halbergmoos-Goldach, D-85399, two may want to pay a few extra to Tokyo. There will be 30 first-class tel. +49/0811/55120, fax 551213, [email protected], euros to upgrade to the larger Alba- seats, 108 business-class seats, and no www.hotel-daniels.de Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 Garch- Rose chambers. Underground park- economy class. Airline analysts don’t ing b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, ing is available for €10 per night. give Smintair much of a chance, point- [email protected] ing out that business travelers choose Zürich Airport ■ Austria Loses Art: “Golden Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, CH- Adele,” other than “The Kiss,” airlines on more important factors 8152 Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, than whether or not they can light up [email protected] Gustav Klimt’s most famous work, Hotel Fly Away, 19, Zürich-Kloten, CH-8302, tel. has been sold for $135 million, thus whenever they want. +41/01/804 4455, fax 804 44 50, [email protected]

Gemütlichkeit 8 July 2006