Succesful experiences

RURALTOURISMCommunalPERu

RURALTOURISMPERU < < < Communal General Editing Cecilia Raffo, Walter H. Wust Managing Editing Gabriel Herrera / Wust Ediciones Texts and research Rafo León Photographic editing Walter H. Wust Photographs PromPerú, Roberto Fantozzi, Walter H. Wust Layout Cinthia Carranza / Wust Ediciones Translation Alejandra Llosa P. / Wust Ediciones Maps Grupo Geographos Editing assitance Nelly de Robles, Jorge Mendoza, Jhonny Parihuamán Pre-press and printing Metrocolor

Hecho el Depósito Legal en la Biblioteca Nacional del Perú N° 2008-01001

All rights reserved under the terms of legislative decree D.L. 882, the author’s copyright.

Presentation

ew tendencies are beginning to emerge in today’s world, in which a new N type of traveler has appeared; a traveler in search of a different experience, less massive, and with better contact with rural societies. For those communities that have started taking some initiatives in order to incorporate themselves into the most consolidated tourist circuits of Peru, a wonderful economic alternative of development has presented, and rural communal tourism has the potential to become one of the most efficient mediums through which to improve the quality of life of the most excluded towns in Peru.

However, in order to allow our communities to offer a competitive and innovative product with direct participation, there are still great challenges to be confronted for which strategic planning has to be a priority. Thus, we propose a sustainable model which not only responds to demand, but at the same time maintains the traditional culture of the Andean communities and peoples of Peru, based on a close relationship between culture and nature.

This is the biggest challenge for us in the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Tourism. To summon all the actors involved to work together, strengthen and consolidate communal projects, and position Peru in the international scene as one of the most interesting destinations worldwide where to live an experience of rural communal tourism.

Mercedes Aráoz Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism Preface

he wealth and cultural diversity of Peru is based on the history, tradition, and T the present of its communities. They occupy a great portion of our national territory and in these times they constitute an invaluable complement to our tourism offer. For those visitors interested in getting acquainted and interacting with other cultures, visiting the rural communities becomes the main motive for the ir trip. Within this same search, the possibility to get closer to the artistic work of artisans represents a crucial factor during their stay in our country. 91% of travelers who visited Peru bought handicrafts, and found that the visits to handicrafts markets were an interesting highlight of their trip.

Despite this great potential, 80% of the participation of tourists in activities that involve communities takes places solely on the southern area of Peru. This is why PromPeru works on the development of diverse activities directed towards the cultural tourist market, with the aim of promoting and strengthening tourism initiatives set forward by rural communities, which will allow them to be decentralized and to redistribute their economic revenues from tourism through every region.

In addition to the exotic image that motivates many to come to Peru lies the challenge of being at the same time, a referent of responsibility in the conservation of our natural and cultural patrimony. The living communities play a decisive role in this. We must keep in mind that this responsibility is not solely based in preserving a culture for it to be observed, but rather in promoting and encouraging its inclusion and participation in the globalization process, rendering tourism a complementary source of income, as well as a conservation tool for its history and environment.

The Commission for the Promotion of Exports and Tourism of PromPeru delivers this guide to the public with special satisfaction, as a token of its commitment to spread our cultural expressions and our interest to contribute with the sustainable development of the communities.

Commission for the Promotion of Exports and Tourism • PromPerú

Introduction

o make a selection of the most successful rural communal ventures in T Peru to present them in this guide has not been an easy endeavor. For our criteria of selection we have taken into consideration diverse components.

Firstofall, we have prioritized the initiatives that bring more benefits to the communities. Thus, of particular value are those that promote agro tourism and the home-stays managed by local inhabitants, which allow the visitor to have a first hand experience of the local cultures. This is the case of the successful tourism products offered by the communities of Lake Titicaca and those being developed around the main circuits in Cusco. Interesting and incomparable proposals that could be reproduced with similar fruition in other parts of Peru.

Another component to keep in mind is the geographical and cultural diversity found in our country. The Amazon experiences offer a privileged relationship between communities and nature, and give the traveler the chance to get close to a world rich in flora and fauna, as well as to traditional medicine. On the other hand, during the last few years there has been an emergence of valuable experiences, which taking an archaeological site as the basis, promote projects of tourism development in which the local communities participate with projects of inclusive business that incorporate the rural societies, while advancing their handicrafts or their agriculture, and turning tourism into an instrument of development that benefits the whole community.

This set of successful experiences of communal rural tourism, not only reflects Peru’s potential, but it is just the beginning of a long journey through the enormous possibilities of our amazing country.

The editors

Content

>>> Southern Andes LAKE TITICACA, PUNO 20 Taquile 22 Llachón 26 Anapia 30 Amantaní 34 Uros Khantati 38

CUSCO 42 Raqchi 44 Pacha-Paqareq 48 Chinchero 52 Chahuaytire-Park of the potato 56 Willoc-Patacancha 60

>>> Coast 64 Manglares de Tumbes 66 Túcume, Lambayeque 70 Chaparrí, Lambayeque 74

>>> Northeast 78 María-Kuélap, Amazonas 80 Granja Porcón, Cajamarca 84 Vivencial Tours, Cajamarca 88

>>> Central Andes 92 Konchukos Tambo Trek, Áncash 94 Inka Naani, Áncash 98

>>> Amazon 102 Matsiguenka House, Manu 104 Rainforest Expeditions, Tambopata 108 On the way to El Dorado, Loreto 112

Puno and Lake Titicaca

The Puno region extends over the elevated Collao plateau and descends through the east to the Amazon forests we share with Bolivia. It is extremely rich; in landscapes, in archaeological testimonies, in expressions of its living culture. Its history is about the evolution of ethnic groups in constant conflict and about ancient cultures spread across territories too harsh to live in.

20 travelers with the opportunity to witness the existing diversity on the Peruvian Peruvian the on diversity existing travels. their the during corridor Andean southern witness to provide to opportunity order the in Cusco, with of south travelers the to located those with manner peculiar a in combined been have projects These found. be can Llachon and Uros Amantani, both in based tourism, the and island on land. It is there were the of ventures Taquile, of experienced- and to rural corner opened have in Puno of communities every a number world, the from travelers to mean cultures living that value the of Conscious have theopportunitytoshare theirwaysoflifeandseesplendidtextiles. and communities, ancient with contact into come visitors areas these In Suasi. and City of Puno, the cities by the lake and the Peruvian islands of Uros, Taquile, Amantani the circuitincludes tourist traditional The Bolivia. to way the on point passing as and At present, Puno is a centre much appreciated by tourism both as a destination in itself, have carelessness and time contaminated andthatnowadays,isintheprocess ofbeingrecoved. that area protected a is Reserve, peninsula, Capachica National the Titicaca towards the and Puno, of port the to Close humans. sustenance for as times different through served have than habitat, diverse creates it warmer,gets day the when resourcessourceas of a humans, meant for always have T of humanity. The importance of the lake in Andean culture is immense: its waters patrimonies natural important most the of one doubt without is Lake Titicaca he

21 Southern Andes Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Taquile

The island of Taquile is the crib of experienced-based tourism in Peru. The project provides a good synthesis between nature, history and living culture. Framed by the wonderful scenery of the Titicaca Lake, the island exhibits terraces, and pre-Incan ceremonial sites. One of its major attractions is its traditional textiles, which in 2005 UNESCO categorized as Intangible Cultural Heritage.

22 All Ways Travel INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION the port in the Major Lake. The Island of Taquile is located in the province of Puno, in the district of Amantani, 35km from HOW TOGETTHERE people from the island are rescuing the roots of the original project. An element element An project. original the of roots the rescuing are island the from people present, however, at conflicts; from free not was process Taquilethe in yet changes there stores. There was of and a were handicraft restaurants small proliferation many which acquired a more character.individual The lodging houses were tourism singled out and intensive an decade, 1980 management, in the changes grow, promoted town and the made which of unleashed was end the By houses. stone of town old the of of conservation series the a particularly-regarding manner, maintain homogenous to a in contributed traditions this and wellbeing, general of frame a within activities the all managed community The established. was open still is which store the handicrafts principle collectively. were communitarian same this managed Under but home each in offered the were meals to and lodging and belonged community, the of boats members The islanders. the by controlled until was up tourism Taquile, mid-80s, in the venture tourism community-based the of beginning the Since of inaccessibility the and lands markets, andfishingjustforself-consumption. of scarcity the to due activity, precarious a been always has agriculture as situation, economic their improve to opportunity privileged and a meant cultureTaquile has of tourism people the traditional For textiles. their see their to chance the have from learn inhabitants, the with days some spending of idea the by attracted island the reached who tourists began non-traditional to community opening the organizations, non-governmental and promoters individual with the exterior world. Little by little, and contact as a result of the to efforts of religious entities, closed community a was Taquile decade, 1970 the Until region. aimara T E P Calle Moquegua679 Kolla Tours www.titicacaperu.com P Casa del Corregidor, Deustua st.576, Puno. : : :

[email protected] (051) 369863 (051) 35-3979 community of the same name; they are of quechua descent, nailed in a mostly a in nailed descent, quechua of are they name; same the of community rural the integrate inhabitants its and Titicaca Lake in island the of one is aquile

handicrafts kayak, boats, cuisine, nature, hikes, archaeology, 20 for48visitors 3.810-3.950 masl province ofPuno 23 Southern Andes TRADITIONAL TEXTILES FROM TAQUILE In the Quechua and Aimara cultures, weaving is an essential cultural element. Woven textiles are used to transport seeds and food, keep warm or to carry babies. In social relations, textiles constitute both a gift and a marker of social status. Anthropology has determined how the human and divine worlds are woven in the pieces. The textile tradition “writes” rituals, and ceremonies. The Taquileño textile art is characterized by the combination of very flashy colors, with black predominating in skirts and pants. The typical pieces of the island are the girdles, or chumpis, and the hats, which indicate the civil statys of who wears them. There are those who say that it is in the embroidery where the family story of the weavers is registered. In 2005, UNESCO gave the Taquileño traditional textiles the category of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

that has been decisive to return to these beginnings, is the categorization of traditional taquileño textiles as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO

Currently, there are multiple possibilities to visit the island and these depend on time, interest and the budget of the traveler. Most tourists do a short trip, which is part of a circuit that includes other islands such as Amantani and Uros. Yet, an important number chooses to spend one or two nights in some family accommodation, which is still a pleasant experience. The traditional visit still subsists in which the visitor goes directly to the town center in the Chuño Pampa sector, going through preincan sites, within the most spectacular scenery. Just recently, two sectors of the community named Huayllano and Collino, have developed a different product, which begins with a welcome duringing which delicious dishes of local cuisine are served in a buffet where the trout, the potatoes, the quinoa, the ocas, among other local products, are displayed.

24 midst of a silence that calls for hypnotic meditation. a message about the value of nature in the bring which before, seen never images with traveler the provides lake the on sunset The Pachamama. the important of offering significance for quechua religiousness to an make There they sites. archaeological diverse stop at a well makes by and villagers, guided informed continues, visit The n h vs mp f rdtoa textile traditional of Andes. making ofthesouthern map vast the in the as well as possibilty of acquiring truly unique phases, pieces its textiles all during traditional with the is acquaintance day next the for theme big The awaits them. interesting conversation ins before sleep, the warmth of wherea good bed and an always houses family are the travelers in the welcomed dinner, light a After which is their main social capital”. progressive loss of their culture, This same influx could signify the 87% of visitors were foreigners. Between the years 1991 and 1992, become their main source of income. management of this activity that has of the islander is the proper cultures, and the main preoccupation is resistant to the influence of foreign are rocky slopes. At present, Taquile counts with 12km2, most of which sorts of activities and that barely business character needed for these the case of Taquile, which lacks the any tourist center, and particularly in for the organizational capacities of breadth presents great challenges population. A situation of such tourists per year, 25 times its now receives about 50 thousand the two thousand inhabitants, “The community, which reaches THE GREAT CHALLENGE* TAQUILE.pdf * www.pnud.org.pe/Pdfs/PUB_Caso_ 25 Southern Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Llachón

A great cultural venture, sucessfull and that could serve as a model, is the one that takes place in the Quechua community of Llachon, located to the north of Puno on the Capachica peninsula. There the villagers welcome the travelers with their traditions and warmth; also they have the opportunity to navigate through the sacred lake thanks to the Titikayak project, put into place in association with a private company. Llachon has much to offer, and also, to teach.

26 Highlights: INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION departing from the port of Puno the journey lasts for 3 to 4 hours. Llachon can be reached by land from Juliaca, through a route that takes 2 to 3 hours.HOW TO GETBy THERE boat, Llachon, composed by the first families that were willing to turn part of their houses their of part turn to willing were that of families Tourismfirst the by of composed Llachon, Promotion the for Association the create to managed Valentin little, by Little operators, transition. difficult of a villagers the participation to seemed the entities, state with and promoters, system larger a with interrelate that services tourist offering of idea the therefore, market; the on than rather nature of cycles the on based labor of culture a created traditions fishing and agricultural The families. 280 to belong who commoners 1.330 groups it and community ample an is Llachon a harmoniousrelationship withtheenvironment. with reed roofs; that it has kept its ancient activities such as agriculture and fishing, in the that value, constructions rock architecture, traditional main its maintain as to able add been has to community important is it this To sun. the of Position the and day the of time the on depending vary that landscapes indescribable with Llachon community, in a relation of mutual learning. Nature, in favor of that idea, has endowed his within time spending in interested specifically travelers attracted that circuit new a create to time was it that decided Amantani, Taquileand to way their on travelers with packed boats the watching to used Valentin, that ago decade a almost was It to see the tourists go by, without this influx having a positive impact in their economy. As it has happened with similar communal initiatives, the inhabitants of Llachon used community, but that now constitutes the main source of income for allthe creatorthe localandleader families.ofanidea that initsbeginning wasnot easily understood bythe Valentintourismthatdevelopsthattruthisbeensuccessfully the has land. But his on V P Antonio Choqueccahui.BoarAssociation. P Santa MaríaruralTourism Association. Tomás CcahuiCoila. P Federation ofRuralTourism ofLlachón. Valentín QuispeTurpo. President ofthe

: : :

(051) 95-59677 (051) 96-91501/95-21527 (051) 98-21392/96-3627797-52227 modestynarratingwhenprojecthistory theexperienced-basedtheruralandofof alentinQuispe, villager Llachon,of doesnotlike thecult personalityto andprefers

observation, kayak. gastronomy, nature, fauna culture, archaeology, approximately, 2 or 3 beds each. 45 families that have 3.810 masl. district of Capachica, Puno.

27 Southern Andes into lodging. This meant investing money in the construction of rooms and toilets, as well as buying furniture and utensils. It also implied learning a totally new and unknown know-how. In favor of this was the spirit of the Quechua people, very proactive and at the same time, cordial with visitors.

In Llachon there are more than fifty beds available distributed throughout the houses of the families who belong to the association. The rooms are a delicacy: warm, simple, reed curtains, and blankets woven by the villagers. Every room has a view, of the lake and we recommend approaching it during dusk and dawn. The natural landscape is enriched with the view of the mountains filled with preincan terraces and of the eucalyptus forests that surround the community. This is the scenery where the men and women of the community live; in which they cultivate, fish, weave, and perform their domestic duties. From there they go out and then return after running their errands in Juliaca or Puno. And from there, they see with satisfaction the arrival of the boats or trucks that bring the travelers who do not just pass by anymore.

Valentin is clear about things, and it is very good to discuss them, with him in his own house while the traveler also has the chance to meet his wife Lucila, and his children, Carolina and Raul. In the opinion of Quispe, shared by the whole community, the essence of the venture on the value of tradition, and at the moment they are undergoing this process, while they confront the impacts of success. therefore, the community has decided not to sell their land, as the images of cement hotels that neighbor their stone houses, is incomprehensible for them. The quality of the project and the leadership of Valentin have been the reason why a series of cooperation entities have supported it; for example, to build the highway that departs from Juliaca, or for training and internships. Not long ago, Mincetur –through the Copesco

28 uet i ad el h ms absolute most the feel and airpurest descend at different sports, breathe the cordilleras,terracesthetheserveand (especially Chifron), ob Escallani and shores of beaches full of reed marshes even days, and they allow to border the it.The excursions can last for hours or legitimized sport friendlyronmentally completelyawas factthatitenvithe communityaccepted thisinitiative. Yet the before time some took it first, at its use and in guiding. Valentin tells that villagerstrainedyoungin vesselsand tion before. The company provided the beenseenbefore thelocalbypopula never had that something kayaks, in lake thenavigate onoffers outingsto Llachon company, tourism adventure prestigious and old an Explorandes, with association In sports.adventure experience of an the with projectcultural provides which in activity an ofcluded name catchy the is This T peace, all while paddling. iti k a y a k - - - - public lights and signposts. There is is There signposts. and lights spaces, public public of implementation the includes that project larger a of part as and sewage systems of the communities, water the improve to area the of majors the with agreement an subscribed Plan- beginning to give its first fruits. fruits. first its give to beginning is Llachon of sprout the that doubt no 29 Southern Andes Puno and Lake Titicaca

Anapia

The Puno archipielago, known as Anapia, is also called Wiñaymarca, which means a location that is always young. This group of islands is located on the minor Titicaca Lake, next to the invisible border with Bolivia. Anapia consists of five islands: Yuspique, Ccaño, Ccana, Anapia and Patahuata. The communities that own the archipielago are Ccaca and Suana. The population of about two hundred families works on agriculture, cattle breeding and fishing. Anapia offers travelers from around the world an extraordinary experience of experienced-based tourism.

30 Highlights: INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Punta of port Hermosa the where to a boat then,of the community Yunguyo and awaits. of town the to get must one Anapia to arriveTo HOW TOGETTHERE accompany servings offresh trout andocas. then archipielago,arewhich the producedtubers in of great variety a as potatoes, of mostly consist and simple are meals The night. of cold the forgetabout to one allow that blankets warm by covered are beds the and warm are rooms The homes. their to toilet a and room a added have villagers The locals. the of life the sharing in lies projectthe of essence have the hotels: or lodges Thereareno travelers. thirty for capacity they and homes, their in provided are meals and accommodation Anapia, In inhabitant; serene, calmand cordial. the of spirit the in all, of most noted, be can community the of conditions living the improving of terms in venture, the of results The meals. and trip boat sail transport, is comprised by 58 families who at present provide diverse accommodation services, for the Development of Sustainable Tourism (ADETURS) was created. This association the impetus of a young lady specialized in tourism named Eliana Pauca, the Association The origin of the Anapia cultural project goes back to the year 1998, when as a result of the inhabitantsinimprovement oftheirhousesorinthefields. with collaborate to island the in settle who Youngpeople who tourism. and volunteering students of social groups between in somewhere by experience, cultural unique visited a with is themselves enrich island the Often, challenges. amongst and highlands, the poverty in occurs life how about informed well and respectful are travelers scenery,These natural Titicaca. privileged Lake a of of that context as such S P for sustainabletourismofAnapia. Promoter ofTourism. Association José Flores

: (051) 81-2867 / 991-2031 all around the world, who are interested in discovering ancient cultures in the in cultures ancient discovering in interested are who world, from the travelers around all welcoming been has Project Anapia the ago, years some ince

observation, sail boats. gastronomy, nature, fauna culture, archaeology, or 3beds. 14 familieseachwith2 3.800 masl. province ofYunguyo, Puno. 31 Southern Andes The visitor arrives to the island of Yuspique and is taken to the heights to see the vicuñas of the community. At the beginning of the project these camelids added to a couple of tens, but nowadays there are more than hundreds. The traveler is then guided to a lookout that during preincan times served to observe the stars and make decisions pertiainig of agricultural activities. Close are the chullpas (stone tombs) which belong to the Pukina culture. In this sector of Yupisnique one can also appreciate rotary crops of potatoes, lima beans, and barley, which were conceived as a source of nourishment for the population that instead of impoverishing the land, maintains it alive and fertile.

On the way back to the port, the women welcome the traveler with a surprise filled with color and flavor: under the shade that protects heads from the intense solar radiation, a table is laid with the results of a wonderful huatia, a sort of Andean pachamanca made only with potatoes and lima beans. The local villagers of Anapia generously accompany this colorful and tasty huatia with some delicious fresh silversides (Odontesthes

QUECHUAS AND AIMARAS The provinces of the region of Puno where aimara is spoken are: the old Huancane; Moho, which used to be part of the former; and Chucuito, whose capital is Yunguyo, and that includes Juli, one of the main centers of Aimara culture in all the high plains. Moreover, it is estimated that 50% of the inhabitants of the Puno region speak that language.

Traditionally, the north of Puno has been associated with the Quechua culture, and the south with the aimara. The provinces of Puno are Sandia, Carabaya, Melgar, Azángaro, Lampa and San Roman. The archipelago of Anapia is fully nailed in the Aimara nation.

32 intense colors of the afternoon. intense colorsoftheafternoon. borders remote which glows the impressivein Royal cordillera, lake, with is snow-caped clear mountains colored with and the wide the into out go then and islands the between circulate that canals the into going includes day. every visitor the fishing give go they to tour The use villagers local the that vessels the are boats sail The gives thecuetogosailingbeforeadvances. theafternoon villager local some until reunion, the distends humor good The world. the and Peru of locations other in happening things other about learn to avid always are they part regia visions ofthelocalsforfuture. the and border a to next live to means it what life, of aspects daily the as such aside, leaves often tourism traditional that aspects with acquainted become to chance the have they ideas of exchange this In flows. dialogue and together get locals and travelers both were here is It visitors. by done donations the of result the community has a library created as a in the population of Anapia. For example, many occurred have tourism phenomenon interesting with interaction the In ). This lunch is a great occasion to talk with the hosts about their project: on their 33 Southern Andes Puno and Lake Titicaca

Amantaní

Amantani is the largerst island that Peru possesses in the Titicaca and also, the one that has the best conditions for agriculture, as well as for other activities such as stone handicrafts, agro forestry, weaving, and trading of alpaca fur. Towards 1970, tourism emerged as an expectation, and the following years worked in favor. Today, in Amantani a very prestigious project of rural and Experienced-based tourism flourishes which charms visitors and improves the local economy.

34 Highlights: INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION journey, The Puno. of city depeding the on the boat, of takes about port three hours. the from lake the via 40km at located is Amantani HOW TO GET THERE some yatiri,which ishowtheshamansare knowninaimara. with contact make to chance the has traveler the that fact the culture;is proofthis of mount). There are also interesting archaeological sites, and definitely,(Llacastiti an intensemasl living 4.200 the reach can which elevations, land and scenery lake the as such attractions many has ordered.island and The resultscalm family a with staying bond in the management and provision of services, thanks to which the experience of the former´s successes. One of them has consisted on keeping strong the communal The tourist Project of Amantani appeared after that of Taquile, therefore, it learned from Colqui Chaqui. Pueblo, Santa Rosa, Lampayuni, Sancayuni, Occosuyo, Incatiana, Villa Orenojon and tourism: and handicrafts fishing, subsistence agriculture, to dedicated communities eight are there Amantani In crops. combined for apt habitat a creates it and mild, is climate the shores its on Furthermore, agriculture. irrigated an of development the allow that springs permanent various has It others. among tola, and muña, cantuta, the as such plants bush of presences shows it islands: other the of that than diverse more is nature its and 9km2, of extension an has Amantani masl, 3.817 at Located days andonenightinsomefamilyhouse. two least at three spending worth the features between interesting extremely differences has the Amantani ventures. into deeper go to traveler the for time enough allow not not does it that is tour this of disadvantage The minutes. forty about takes C E P Calle Libertad229 Solmartour E P Calle Lima2082dopisoParque Pino Turperu

: : : : [email protected] [email protected] (051) 35-2586 (051) 35-2001 on the Titicaca: Uros, Taquile and Amantaní; navigation between the last two last the between navigation Amantaní; and TaquileUros, Titicaca: the on onventional tourist packages often include a full day tour of three on the islands

handicrafts. culture, archaeology, nature, 45 lodgingsapprox. Colquecachi Community: 50 lodgingsapproximately. Community ofOccosuyo: 4.050 masl District ofAmantaniPuno.

35 Southern Andes The population of Amantani adds up to 4.000 individuals, organized in 800 families scattered around eight communities. Tourism is a resource that is managed according to communal property, which controls the transport systems on boats and speedboats, accommodation, meals, and to an extent, the handicrafts that is composed by textiles (of similar qualities of those of the taquileños), carved rocks (from Llacastiti), some distillery and fur breeding. This last activity that takes as main input the alpaca is the one that continues to bring together the islanders even when they have migrated to different areas of the country.

The process of the Amantani venture is very interesting, and it emerges towards the end of the 1970 decade when the government of the time developed programs for the promotion of handicrafts. To these one must add the initiatives generated for the recovery of prehispanic rests, particularly the two temples located in the high areas, and which possibly correspond to the Pucara or Tiahuanaco cultures and are nowadays denominated Pachamama and Pachachata. Little by little, and with the arrival of the first groups of travelers, the communal system of accommodation and food was established, while at the same time the handicrafts market was established during the European high season (July-August). The traditional festivity of San Sebastian that takes place at the beginning of the year was also rescued.

The traveler’s stay in Amantani provides him with the opportunity to lear about these cultural rescues, always guided by locals who provide them with information from the depths of their own experiences. All the men from the island are bilingual, while the women speak spanish in a smaller proportion. Just as in Taquile, traditional textiles here are also a true wonder in which the diverse stages of production can be recognized. To leave with a woven piece from Amantani is a way of perpetrating the experience acquired during the trip, and the opportunity to have an expression of an ancient

36 number of plastic bottles, batteries batteries bottles, plastic of number the however, a great brought has of tourism arrival fertilizers; as are of used organic the that disposal; is garbage encountered recently has community the that problem A sinks, as furniture. home as or ovens mortars, used pieces utilitarian the overall and exchange, through commercialized The all are carvings rock products. other for exchange in is traded Timber Indeed, is scarce. much valued in a region where timber is which eucalyptus, of presence the given forestry, agro is islands. them of Titicaca One the of frame the within Amantani activities unique of two permits nature peculiar The OTHER ACTIVITIES and non-degradable wrappings. wrappings. non-degradable and its naturalandculturalparticularities. by supported market global the entering is that community a of world complex the into deep go is to order it in as necessary long as for stay the extend to are recommendedis probablyit enough: not night one and days Two oca. and potatoes beans, lima quinoa, lake, the from fish fresh always rice; or spaghetti are traditional, the traveler will never have island the in offered meals The treasure. 37 Southern Andes Puno and lake Titicaca

Uros Khantati

The floating uros archipelago is one of the most traditional attractions for travelers who come to the high plains. Its ancient culture founded on an ethnic group that has been separated from the firm land, the construction system of the living surfaces and the handicrafts, are the arguments that for many years have attracted travelers to this place. New ventures are born here, to diversify the current, to preserve the ecosystem and offer a new cultural experience. Uros Khantati stands out.

38 E: P: INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Puno. of city the of port the from kilometers six about at located is archipelago uros The THERE GET TO HOW Bolivian territory, and it was part of the great groups of the lake prior to the one one the to prior lake the of groups great the of part was it and territory, Bolivian today is occupation what in existed which Lake, migratory Uro-Uro the of margins the on first established that the after derived have could uros of name generalized The town”. “lake means which kotsuña, was group ethnic the of name original The established arelation betweentheuros andthepuquinaculture. others and continent, the of north the from came that wave migran great the to uros also anthropological theories with different interpretations. Some link the arrival of the arethere though even America; South of occupation the of most explains which that fromcome they that reasondifferentindicate south, totally to theis history its why to seems everything and times preincan during existence to came Quechuas, the and Aimara the different to group a uros, The ago. years fifty some away passed that last the said is It uros. original the of descendants pure more no are there present, At Paraiso, Kapi,Toranipata, Chumi,Titino,Negrote andTinajero. five or ten. Currently, the occupied islands and inbetween usesomewhere are: Santacould Maria, this Tribuna, families, Tupiri, of number varying a by inhabited is island neighbors, or these are families solved by cutting the island amongst in two with a problems machete, and it is areover. thereEach small whenever that said is it sector Khantati the traveler.In the for interest great of issue an is This tourism. of demand abandoning them depending on the movements of families and on migration, and the or islands building about go locals the as islands of number fixed no reality,is there In tourists. by visited most the are Puno, of bay the around scattered islands twenty T [email protected]

[email protected] (051) 96-95121 the Desaguadero River, which joins this lake with the Poopo in Bolivia. The current he uros ethnic group inhabited the floating islands of the Titicaca and the shores of

handicrafts. nature, fauna observation, culture, gastronomy, 10 doublerooms 3.810 masl district of Capachica, Puno 39 Southern Andes we see today. The Incas, during the time of Pachacutec, tries to dominate these men –who are said to have black blood- but they were able to free themselves and traveled to the islands we see nowadays in the bay of Puno at the shores of the Desaguadero River. The original Uros, began mixing with Aimaras and Quechuas, even though the main influence comes from the first.

Khantati is a population group that descends from these complex mixtures and it is the vessel of cultural hybridism in which features of the original ethnic groups still remain. One of these ancient elements is the way of building their homes, totally out of reed fit with rope to poles sunk in the depths of the Titicaca. They share with other groups of islanders the traditional mechanics to built and renovate their own islands, that it is based on the same principles upon which their homes are constructed. In this very peculiar home base, in addition to their domestic constructions the families also have community venues, grocery stores, and a school. They have solar panels that provide them with electricity. It is these same traditional and modern systems which constitute the basis of the Khantati cultural project, specifically conceived so that the traveler has the opportunity to integrate what is ancient with its requirements of comfort. The rooms for travelers are made of reed but have electricity and basic, but comfortable, furniture.

The islanders practice traditional fishing of carachi and silversides, among other species; they show the visitor how is it that with sun drying it they store the fish for hard times, according to rules of food security. The hunt of wild birds was a

URO LANGUAGE There are no more speakers of the ancient uriquilla language, the original from the uros. The topic of the origin of this language is as complex as the actual source of the ethnic group. The uruquilla seems to be related with the language of the chipayas, who inhabited the bolivian province of Carangas in Oruro. According to specialized studies, during the 1930 decade there were a hundred uruquilla speakers still living and inhabiting the shores of the Desaguadero River, one of the first settlements after the uros were displaced by the Inca threat. From 1950 onwards, the uros and their mestizo descendants began adopting the quechua and mainly, the aimara language. This as part of a process of cultural and social hybridism that continues flowing at present times, due to a great extent to the role played by tourism, as it is not surprising that the traveler might have the change to find in Uros inhabitants who speak English.

40 utilitarian purposes. for weave reedto the use men the as women, the with technique this learn and are also exported. The visitor can there sent are textiles The fauna. and flora local the illustrates and Uros, the of myths founding the narrates that iconography an by dominated is upholstery the Khantati: in topic and their embroidery are an important weaving their Both silversides. and and of course, fish: carachi, uspi, trout over a basis of potatoes, moraya, corn prepared dishes the to flavor special a gives it and stoves, mud in fuel as isused plant This for tours. and fishing rafts the and handicrafts, their they build the is islands, their houses, reed is a plant sent by gods, as with it the that tell Uros of inhabitants The GREAT TRAVELLING EXPERIENCE no possible agriculture in this location. location. this in agriculture possible no activity, as there subsistence common is in a narrow relationship with the life life the Lake. Titicaca the with by generated relationship narrow a in this of all races; and of cultures mixture different the in conceived about culture a learning origins, ethnic very remote of family a with island, activities reed sharing floating a on for days living some Imagine resting. ladies, the with weave to how learning beautiful landscape, a the within all area, trying the of fishing, food and sailing going population, the with days living many Khantati, for in stay can traveler The tourism. for mainly fibers, camelid and ovine Conversely, with weave task. women male a is rafts and houses islands, the of construction The 41 Southern Andes Cusco

Macchu Picchu, the city of Cusco and the Sacred Valley in Urubamba are Peru’s main tourist attractions, and certainly, of South America. In these spaces the desire of travelers from every corner of the world to enter a world where history has left invaluable prints and is still alive, can be fulfilled.

42 acquainted withthemosttraditional region oftheSouthAmerican Andes. becoming of way unique together,a all compose and own, its on world a is them of one Each equally. strangers and own its astonishes that tourism experience-based and rural of productscreated have communities diverse valleys upper and lower the in both territories, these In population. Inca living fortressand its with Ollantaytambo and cosmopolitanism, its and Urubamba market, handicraft its and Pisac (female weavers), tejedoras its architecture, and Chinchero their find throughcan one mix There culture. their living and display art their today that and Indians, of towns as Spread around the Sacred Valley are the beautiful colonial towns that were established about extremely valuable handicraftsamongwhichthetextilesstandout. and ceremonies, and cults practices, agricultural ancient about learning exchange, history,fromof Andes heart the southern throughthe families, with time spending by in life about learn to traveler the attract that ventures communal of group a find can W that nowadays, in addition to the archaeological and cultural attractions, one attractions, cultural and archaeological the to addition extent in nowadays, the that to attractions of offer its widened has region Cusco the time, ith 43 Southern Andes Andes Cusco

Raqchi

One of the most interesting projects of cultural tourism in Peru is located halfway between Cusco and Puno close to the city of Sicuani. Spending some days there allows the traveler to discover a living museum where ancient tradition maintains its validity in different expressions of cultural expressions, such as pottery, music, dances, gastronomy and clothing. The magnificent Inca temple dedicated to Wiracocha is part of the community.

44 Av. ConfederaciónNº556,Sicuani Project Coordination Unit(UCP) INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION The ruins are found just four kilometers away from the highway. Cusco,min)southoffollowing30(2h RaqchilocatedKm pavedPuno.121 theroadis toat HOW TO GET THERE The Collasuyo Inka Trail cuts an impressive wall that surrounded Raqchi. In addition,surroundedInRaqchi.thatimpressive wallTrailan Collasuyo Inkacuts The the see basescan ofone 22 wallcylindrical the columns.of sidesThe complextwo thealso hasOn bedroomswall. adobefrom an the andInca nobility.base rock a with of length and 25 of width. What strikes the most is a central wall of 12 meters of height architecturalrectangular metersa masterpiecehas92 mud rockfloor of and ofmade magnificent a of rests ViracochaTiciPachayachachi. KonThis God the of cult the forincas the centre by built temple its as has complex archaeological Raqchi The and bedrooms built have bathrooms adjacenttothe familyhomes. they this For inhabitants. the with days some by culture, spending Quechua the of aspects authentic to close come can visitor the where museum living a in community the transform to and is Raqchi of food concept pottery,The language. attires, traditional rescue to seeks that process a to associated is project cultural The resources. traditional their to value giving when determinant sciences graduates. This characteristic, which strengthens self-confidence, has been computer or tourist teachers, either are they education: higher have raquiños Most advocated they capitalize, to them themselves toageniustourismventure thatisproducing allow importantresults. not did activity this that fact the to Due they which in cultivate potatoes, corn, ocas, tarwi, quinoa, land ullucus and wheat for self-consumption. of parcels small own villagers The tourism. cultural in recently, and agriculture,pottery in work who families, eighty by composed is community The located on the right margin of the Vilcanota River and it has an altitude of 3.480 masl. T www.corredorpuno-cusco.org E: P : [email protected] (084) 35-1970/35-1626 way to Puno. It belongs to the district of San Pedro, province of Canchis; it is it Canchis; of province Pedro, San of district the to belongs It Puno. to way the on Cusco, of city the of south the to km 120 at located is Raqchi of town he handicrafts. nature, popular festivities, culture, archaeology, 40 houses, 2 to 3 beds each 3.500 masl province of Canchis, Cusco 45 Southern Andes the colcas or food warehouses, and a ceremonial usno (sacred mound) attached to the water sources, stand out.

The cultural project was born as a need to make the flow of tourists that visited the Inca complex, have a positive effect on the community. This is the reason why the project and the archaeological visit are closely related. What is interesting is that this visit is enriched by the guidance of the local youth, who describe the Inca rests from the perspective of the local inhabitants, those who have been part of the history of the site.

At present, in Raqchi there are 40 warm rooms with ensuite bathrooms, and some of them even have hot water. The families provide meals to the visitors, which consist of traditional dishes with ingredients such as corn, potatoes, ullucus, lima beans, peas, tarwi, quinoa Mysthic ritual and wheat, all grown locally. Often In Raqchi the visitor has the opportunity at dinner other families come to visit to be part of the offerings to the land and a small party begins, in which done by the villagers as part of their they sing and dance to the rhythm of cultural and religious practices. These the asispayana and the cashua, an ceremonies take place on the usno unforgettable experience. (ceremonial mound), and are dedicated to the Pachamama, or Mother Earth. A Apart from the visit to the complex, the villager gifted by special powers is in clocal villagers of Raqchi organize a very charge of the offerings, which consist alluring trek to an extinct volcano called on coca leaves –the element that links Kinsachata, one of their local apus. It is the human and divine worlds – chichi, here where ceramists have always found minerals, wine, camelid fat, sweets and the sand that gives their pieces unique other objects. These offerings to the resistance and quality. The trek is short. land – true expressions of a millenary It firsts goes past a lookout from where civilization- are experiences that allow a wonderful panoramic view of the town the travelers to become integrated and the temple can be enjoyed. with the community through a ritual of brotherhood and harmonization with In the town of Raqchi travelers have the the elements of nature. opportunity to learn about the process of pottery making, and even, be part of

46 ol a ies ary f xeine o lvn wt hmn rus ht possess great resources that oflivingculturalpatrimony. groups human with living of experiences of array diverse a world the offer to is idea The FONCODES. and FIDA the by integrated is which Project, the Cusco - Puno road have been structured with the support of the South Corridor along projects of net similar a Raqchi, Since America. Latin and Peru in ventures cultural other referentfor a become has Raqchi project, the of success the Given dialogue. intercultural and encounters human generating on based is philosophy its and Roots”, Inca “Raqchi called is Project Raqchi the by liderated group The project vision of thesnake,pumaandcondor. images through above and middle the in one the below, one the worlds; three the symbolizes that iconography Inca with plates famous the as pieces decorative also plates: and bread the keep to pieces used out stand these, Among made. are quality excellent of pieces utilitarian and decorative many Nowadays, are made. chicha, the store to deposits times, large raquis, famous the where immemorial here is it and since been ceramists have Raqchi from people The it. 47 Southern Andes Cusco

Pacha-Paqareq

Since Raqchi´s take-off, threes communities located between Cusco and Puno (Patabamba, Chillca and Kharhui) decided to formulate their own projects, and with the support of the Southern Corridor (FIDA and FONCODES) gave form to their initiative. These communities are putting their projects into place with the presence of Raqchi, as they are conscious that functioning as a net is the most convenient strategy, as it offers the traveler a varied array of communal experiences, each with its own attractions.

48 Highlights: P: Orlando Garcia /JuanCarlosFlores Chillca INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Pitumarca on the km 99 on the Cusco-Puno road. Karhui is annexed to Sicuani. todetour thetake necessary tois Chillcait toarrive orderto Ccorao.In tolocatedclose is townthe detour toPisac.The roadto the fromCusco, on 30m 1h Patabambalocated atis HOW TO GET THERE The traveler can be part of all these moments, of work, of celebration, of joy. of celebration, of work, of moments, these all of part be can traveler The instruments. percussion and wind ancient by accompanied place into come singing the and dances the end, an to come has fields the in work the Once market. the to go or community, the or home the within stay either will that products reap to order in it irrigate and it, after look it, sow land, the open –such farmers the themselves chaquitaqlla- the by as made tools farming Using food. all of provider the being for men take care of the farming tasks that begin at dawn after thanking the mother earth The product. finished the to way the all shearing the from task, female a is Weaving with which to chuspas scarves, ponchos, or blankets, decorate (small llicllas purses). of of symbolization natural elements such as the flowers,the fish, the stars and crops, system a is pieces these in iconography The dyes. using and technology,fibers traditional quality great of textiles produce inhabitants the the Patabamba of in Furthermore, supply food the in heritage key a different ayllus groups) (family that dwell in this area of the Sacred Valley constitute of the Incas. which lands, their in cotton even and cereals maize, coca, cultivate villagers the ago long Since masl. 3.800 of altitude an at Calca of province the in Coya, of district the in located is Patabamba of source main the as visitor the with enrichment. mutual exchanging and living time spending possibility of the all, of most and resources, archaeological and of natural beauty the scenic, has, their each that wealth cultural the promote they form which in different a tourism to of invite they group a as and Kharhui, and Chillca Patabamba, of communities by the is composed network The areas. in camping and homes family T E: P: Faustino Champi Patabamba www.andeanlodges.com [email protected] E:

[email protected] [email protected] (084) 981-9137/931-1459 (084) 980-7748/26-1517 he Pacha-Paqareq network of cultural tourism has been functioning since since functioning in both travelers been international and has national to lodging and meals tourism offering 2006, cultural of network Pacha-Paqareq he

handicrafts, nature. culture, archaeology, Patabamba: Chilca 4.500 masl.Approx Centre and south of Cusco : 40rooms 8 double rooms 49 Southern Andes Chillca is located in the district of Pitumarca in the province of Canchas in Cusco at 4.055 masl. It is the access point to a number of snow caped mountains above the 5.000 masl, which have become well known treks for trekkers of all around the world, especially by those who wish to take on the challenge of going around the Ausangate. The community of Chillca has organized to have people escorting the trekkers during the five days and four nights of the trek, which takes them through impressive landscapes in the proximity of snow- caped mountains of majestic beauty. Llamas, alpacas, vicuñas The treks from Chillca go through punas, Camelids are an essential part of the pajonales and snow-caped mountains, landscape of these communities of always under a sky of intense blue. the highlands; the culture associated The abundant lakes that appear on the with them is very ancient and it trek reflect these landscapes and invite structures the relationships of man contemplation and peace. and beast for its use and at the same time, for its conservation and Karhui is a community that belongs to the protection. The llamas are used province of Sicuani, which is enduring as beasts of burden due to their extreme poverty. As it usually happens in resistance to long journeys. Its meat this context, those who have the worst is also consumed. The alpacas offer part are the women; yet, the ventures that the Andean inhabitant its fibers of have come into place in this community different colors, from black to white have begun to change substantially going through sepias and browns. their situation and at present, they are Its light, soft and very warm wool going to school and have earned the is appreciated around the world right to share their opinions and vote in for its quality. The vicuña, patriotic the assemblies. This community is part symbol of Peru, is only kept in a wild of the Ausangate route and it shares its state under the most strict system beautiful resources. of protection. Its very fine tobacco colored fiber protects it from the cold weather as this animal dwells in the most elevated Andean peaks. To have the opportunity to observe these camelids and to learn about the customs of the communities for their conservation, are great attractions for the traveler.

50 altitude in Peru after the Huascaran, the after Peru in altitude and thus, it is number four in terms of earth. It has an altitude of 6.394 masl, on behavior rule ordersthat and laws of set its has that god powerful the most Cusco, of Apu the important is most Ausangate The beings nature. and human between observe harmony the peaks over watch and their creatures their from that of gods traditional Andean culture; mountains tutelary the are apus The THE AUSANGATE APU the Yerupaja andtheCoropuna. 51 Southern Andes Cusco

Chinchero

The town of Chinchero is one of the places one must visit while traveling through the southern Andes. It dazzles visitors with its traditional mestizo architecture, and its calm and peaceful atmosphere. It is also well-known for its handicrafts market, which originally took place during certain days of the week and where trade between the villagers was common. At present, with the arrival of tourism, the market is a stable event that has been enriched thanks to a project aimed to the recovery of traditional textiles.

52 Highlights: Altitude: Av. Sol603,Cusco Center ofTraditional Textiles ofCusco INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Location: USEFUL INFORMATION communicates the capital with the town of Urubamba. thatroad paved the via Cusco of northmin) (45 km 30 atlocated Chincerois of town The HOW TO GET THERE mns lila, hsa, hlo, aetis bakt, lvs ht ad scarves. and hats gloves, blankets, tapestries, chullos, chuspas, lliqllas, amongst Callañaupa, Nilda proudly asserts weavers” of generation a ensure to is vision “My fibers anddyesextractedfrom plantsthatgrow wildlyinthelowerareas. old, continue weaving over the base of the same ancient technology and using natural Today,adult, own. young, its women, on these language a almost was which vision, Cosmo a conserved and synthesized textiles The wealth. and power of ornaments also and use, daily for pieces of classes social different the provided work, divided making textile of art society.The by valued most the during of one was that times pre-Hispanic labor a revitalizing are they activity this through and weaving are They task that demands the effort of their hands but also, of their memories a and in enthralled intelligence. women of groups gathers garden The tiles. with roofed mud, of color gardenample there covereda is towardsand gallery natural of built venue a end, the the Around marvel. a is director.currentsite and The founder its is Callañaupa Nilda and Chinchero of weavers of Center the of name quechuan the is Riccharichiq Awai rescued thankstotheinitiative ofanexceptionalwomancalledNildaCallañaupa. being of process the in nowadays textiles, its of world wonderful the in all, of most and attires, traditional the in inhabitants, its by spoken language the in market, its in characteristics stand out the most Inca ancient are the found, where an however,elements The over in linage. Spanish the displays of living characteristic culture architecturelayout of urban Chinchero: civil temple- the Christian while and synthesis, temple making without –Inca juxtapose power religious of symbols The presences. C www.textilescusco.org E: F: P:

(084) 23-6880 [email protected] (084) 22-8117 iceo a bit vr vr etnie na eteet I ti tw one Spanish town and inca this the between In relationship cultural settlement. the appreciate Inca clearly can extensive very a over built was hinchero

handicrafts. gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 3.760 masl Cusco province of Urubamba, 53 Southern Andes Nilda was born in Chinchero, the daughter of villagers and a villager herself. She grew up watching her mother, neighbors and aunts weave. But as time went by and tourism began making its appearance, first in small groups and later in large quantities, Nilda too started to perceive that some sort of danger was overcoming the valuable treasure of traditional textiles. Tourists were being led by prices and failing to demand quality, what consequentially derived to the standardization of the product and thus, a loss in terms of designs and original value of traditional pieces. The synthetic materials were being imposed, the pallaris (icons) underpriced, and they were weaving pieces to be immediately sold in the market.

Obsessed with rescuing the art of weaving, 28 years ago Nilda took the initiative of grouping the women that shared her message, and they practice with the elders all the stages of the complex process of textile making. With time, the initial group transformed into a solid organization destined not only to the preservation of this art but also to its commercialization. In 1996 the group took the name of Center of Textiles of Cusco and expanded its radius of action to other communities of weavers, such as Pitumarca, Chahuaytire, Sallac, Accopia, Santo Tomas, Upper Accha, Patabamba and Mahuaypampa.

Currently in Chinchero there are 38 weavers who are part of the project. Yet adding the craftsmen and craftswomen of other communities, the numbers surpassed the three hundred. When the visitor arrives to the center it finds women busy with the whole process of weaving: the spinning, the dyeing, the warp, the pattern, and the final details. One must stop to observe each of these steps, and most ofall,the moment in which the weavers apply the designs. In Chinchero textiles, more than fifty motifs have been compiled, and are displayed over a central base called loraipo. The relation between this space and the lateral sequences of other icons expresses the links between the human and divine worlds, as well as the symbolizations of nature and even elements that identify each artist. Visiting this place will generate a transformation in the traveler, as he will understand that there is an immense ancient world that is updated daily thanks to the hands of the weavers from Chinchero.

CENTER OF TRADITIONAL TEXTILES OF CUSCO Created by Nilda Callañaupa in 1996, this entity works with a series of communities from the Sacred and Mapacho Valleys. Its main objective is to rescue traditional textiles and commercialize them in the market, while ensuring high quality standards and fair prices for the weavers. The center has a store in the city of Cusco where it is possible to purchase the textiles brought from the communities and at the same time, watch the artists work. Annexed to the stores, there is an excellent museum dedicated to the topic where it is possible to follow each stage of its complex process. One can also coordinate directly with Nilda herself, or with the personnel of the musem to organize visits to the communities with which the CTC collaborates.

54 Vilcanota cordilleras. plaza one can see the Vilcabamba and the From purposes. evangelistic and with religious themes that had didactic and certain interior walls display murals monuments in Cusco. Both the façade occurredreligioustheallwith colonial it as palace, Inca great a be to used was what foundationsof the overerected church The century. 17th of the beginning the towards finished was be which can nowadays, appreciated that of temple Christian construction the the ordered and Chinchero”of Monserrat of Lady our ViceroyToledo“doctrineof the found a series of large vaulted niches. In 1572 thefields. The wall is characteristic by space between the Spanish plaza and the dividesthat wall Incagreat a has Chinchero archaeology, of terms In LIVING TOWN 55 Southern Andes Cusco

Chahuaytire and the Park of the potato

At 45 minutes from Pisac is the community of Chahuaytire, land of weavers who have known how to keep their culture alive. It is said that when the conquistadores arrived to Cusco they were surprised to see that the natives took as much care of their textiles as they did of their gold. Indeed, the traditional cuzqueño textile is a treasure because it structures a memory that is updated in each of the fine pieces that come from those old looms.

56 Park ofthepotato Justino Yucra oPorfirioIllya Chahuaytire INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION The community of Chahuaytire is located at 6km (45min) from Pisac on a paved road. HOW TO GET THERE kiwicha, ocas, ullucus and legumes. The dining room is designed in such a way that way a such in designed is room dining The legumes. and ullucus ocas, kiwicha, before, combined with other Andean seen ingredients never forms such and as colors of cuy potatoes stews; (guinea or pig), entrees cold tarwi, picantes, served soups, quinoa, arein which potatoes, local native of base the on prepared been have buffet beautiful restaurant where they welcome travelers at noon. All the dishes in the lunch The villagers from Chahuaytire who form the so-called Park of the Potato have built a and atpresent, girlsandboysgetinvolvedinthisactivitythat hasgreat future. extracted from the plants that grow in the low areas. The men knit, the women weave, exceptional quality, made with sheep and alpaca natural fibers, dyed with natural dyes and Saturdays they welcome visitors to Wednesdaysshow them their work and sell on them pieces of manner; associative an in work who members 56 has association an Cusco, of Textiles Traditional of treasure.The ancient this preservationof the to dedicated Cusco in entity important Center the supply they today and decade, a than more for weavers of association an of part been have brothers Ccoyo Illya The and forittobeconsidered asintangibleheritageofthenation. generations new the in making textile traditional of art the consolidate to seek who also, where to spend time with the local villagers, very cordial and enterprising people, and textiles traditional cusqueño with acquainted become to where place great a is buttons. These details that catch the attention of the traveler, tells us that Chahuaytire knitted they for as well as ponchos, colorful their by distinguished be can men the while skirts, embroidered ample wear women The T W: E: P: Calle Ruinas451,Cusco César Argumedo

[email protected] (084) 24-5021 www.andes.org.pe differentiating themselves of in way the a tourist as and attires handicraft traditional markets their whererescued have they Chahuaytire operate. from villagers he

handicrafts gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 2.950 masl province of Calca, Cusco chullos decorated with beads and beads with decorated 57 Southern Andes it harmonizes with the landscape. Next to it there is a small demonstrative parcel where the visitor can learn about more than 180 varieties of potatoes from the 400 that have been rescued by the Park of the Potato; it is good to ask about the natural techniques they use to deal with plagues as the local guide will have the answer with a demonstration in situ. A short outing to discover cave paintings FESTIVITIES OF THE POTATO can be the perfect occasion to digest the February is the month when two succulent lunch. important popular festivities are celebrated in Chahuaytire and in the Wonderful places for those who wish to other communities that are part of enrich their visit to the attractive town of the Park of the potato. The first one is Pisac, Chahuaytire and the Park of the the Linderaje, when the communities Potato are communal projects destined go to the landmarks that demarcate to the rescue of culture and biodiversity. the territory in order to reaffirm them On the one hand, are the traditional through offerings. The journey covers textiles and on the other, the more than through areas above the 4.800 masl. thousand varieties of native potatoes The communities organize themselves found within the area of the park. Both in a long queue flanked by youths who strategies seek to integrate tradition and dance a dance called Wifala, word for joy. modernity in a proposal that aspires for This dance determines the succession sustainability, as the value of both the of positions in the community, and textiles and the tuber rest on the fact at the same time, it organizes the that they can be regenerated and grow links between the communities as it without losing its original qualities. culminates on the Chiuchillani pampa where the young ladies wait, ready to The Park of the Potato was established initiate the courtship. with the support of the ANDES Association in Cusco, and it is categorized as Area of The festivity of the Santuruma Tinkay Bicultural Heritage. It has a population of takes place the next day and it is about approximately 6.000 people in an area of an offering to the spirit of the potato. 9.000 Ha, between the 3.400 and 4.900 This festivity had already been lost masl. The visit to the park is extremely but it has made a come back with rich and diverse in terms of experience. the repatriation of certain varieties; There are those who prefer to spend the Tinkay consists in a ritual that time learning about the species that have culminates with an offering done in been rescued, traditional technology the area of the germoplasm where the and in the observation of flora and adaptation of the species that have fauna. Others chose to trek the ancient returned takes place. prehispanic paths guided by local villagers who tell stories collected from

58 complete making process ofutilitarianand decorativepieces. appreciatingthe of pottery,chance of the art has the traveler therein the and master community, the distant is most the Pampallaqta, details. finishing the to weaving the from process, entire the appreciate can one There made. are Andes southern the of textiles and pottery. Chahuayties is the place where what are possible the best textiles especially art, local about learn to is option Another grandparents. and parents their 59 Southern Andes Cusco

Willoc y Patacancha

These communities, close to Ollantaytambo, are privileged sites where to learn about the valuable process of traditional cusqueño textile making. They open to the traveler, the doors of a world that is very similar to that of the local culture five hundred years ago, and that at the same time, boasts a dynamic modernity. Here, the villagers are becoming acquainted with the tourist as a way of integrating themselves to a larger society, that respects them as equals by acknowledging their diversity.

60 Andean Center of Traditional Technology and INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION located at 78 Km (1h 30 min)Ollantaytambo, from Cuscoof throughtown athe paved from road. min) 30 (1h 17km at located is Willoc of communityThe HOW TO GET THERE These towns are also home of weavers. From the heights, Willoc appears spread spread appears Willoc heights, the From weavers. of home also are towns These are visited. Q’elkanka and Sondormayo of Rumira towns the to Willoc In journey the roofed and adobe with reed. or built tiles with homes and with terraces as beauty such exceptional elements of and nature architectural cordiality mountainous a much combine with that them, the share sceneries of to in joy, aware willing are become and have traditions who their villagers of meeting value of chance the have will they products massive the and in Patacancha Willoc to in in the the Furthermore, of city markets Cusco. exhibited different very quality, great of pieces find that will know they they as there communities these visit art entity traditional of quality local the appreciate a who by travelers those Firstly, fruits. its reaping accompanied is of Ollantaytambo) of Culture Communities been the and Technology has Traditional of years Center (Andean CATCCO many demominated for that process This the to value more giving is culture. ancient tourism living of of expression world the by goes and time valued as be that to order secondly, in recovered be to in has that culture capital their –and valuable a textiles general—is their that first, discover, to tourism. began good of then benefits villagers the The of communities poorer the excluding and other, textiles), the of on (that treasure heritage true a the meeting had of side, having one without on buses opportunity on left then and here in time long –Ollantaytambo a spend destination case- nearby this a to came traveler the how time long a for A P: Patacalle s/n,Ollantaytambo (CATCCO) Culture of the Community of Ollantaytambo (084) 20-4024/22-3627 Patacancha the stimulus to open to tourism came from having observed observed having and from Willoc came in tourism ventures, to open communal to of stimulus series the a Patacancha with happens usually it s

handicrafts gastronomy, nature, culture, archaeology, 2.750 masl Cusco Urubamba province, 61 Southern Andes in an infinite space of greens, both wild and cultivated, at the skirts of great Ollantaytambo mountains. As the traveler comes close Considered a living Inca town, this to the town he will realize that a very beautiful place is the threshold important local theme is that of color, to the amazonic area of Cusco. as to the green of the natural elements, Ollantaytambo is well-known for the human presence has added the housing the so-called fortress, which intensity of red and black, which is truly an immense ceremonial, dominate the traditional attires: these political, military and administrative villagers are referred to as “huayruros”, site, built as terraces, where the stone as their clothes reminds of the colors work, considered one of the most of this lucky seed. Ponchos knitted in refined expressions of sculptural and different tones of earthly colors, chullos architectural work of the Incas can decorated with beads and buttons, be appreciated yet Ollantaytambo embroidered monteras, laces, braids, has thousands of secrets to be hands, everything in Willoc has the discovered: the old town, of Inca harmonic movement demanded by the architecture but at present, inhabited art of textile making, thus composing a by locals. There are also the prints world of color and life. Spindles, balls left by the hybridization that took of wool, loom, pots with boiling inks, place during the colony, which is natural dyes, raw fibers, everything expressed in mestizo architecture illustrates the print of a textile tradition and in certain festivities such as that that has a privileged heritage rank. of the Lord of Choquekillca.

The villagers welcome the visitor with songs and dances. The fact that some of them wear a white attire with long sleeves of the same color, stands out. It is the wifala, a dance that imitates the movements of the huallata (the Andean goose) and at the same time means joy and Inca nation. This reception introduces the traveler to the world of the weavers organized in a Textile Center in which 260 craftswomen from different communities participate. These women, of all ages, weave in the same manner as their mother, grandmothers, and their most ancient ancestors, and at the same time, work the fields and fulfill their duties at home. The men have similar roles and many of them complete their workdays as porters in the Inka Trail. There is activity in the

62 weave weave marvels: llicllas, scarves, and women, who just as their neighbors, speaking quechua mostly association; hour from Here Willoc. there is also a weavers an half at located is Patacancha visitors. welcome to themselves prepared have they when Saturdays, on it visit to preferable is it but on area a Basis, of the daily weavers Cosmo vision. vision. Cosmo Andean traditional values which syntax a creating combined, when another and itself, in unique meaning, a has pallais) the in (or icon each where lives women, of memory designs of language the how mostly,color, and each obtain they how about enquire also must One dyes. natural valley, the the of end the at ones the and fibers, between the provide areas upper the from weaving those subsists; for communities materials of exchange the how about artisans and authorities with dialogue to interesting very also is It silk. of texture the alpaca) or sheep (of fibers natural the give can that finesse such of all blankets, bags, legend of the plebeian General has an important space in the imagination of the the of imagination the in space important an has General plebeian the of legend the days, Inca, these Still new back. the power and and freedom his him Ollantay grants Yupanqui, rescues Tupac girl noble the this, Despite prisoner. him rebel. makes who to Ñawi, Rumi called General, another Ollantay by betrayed Yetis lad young the incites and relationship this Ollantay opposes she. did socially, Pachacutec so However, and her, ascended with love in he fell Cusicoyllor, Inca, Once the of troops. daughter the met imperial the of command plebeian the a Ollantay, of story the awarded was he that dedication such about with Pachacutec Inca served who is General It legends. prehispanic on based is the of setting drama Ollantay, the Ollantaytambo colonial which is, supposedly, ANDES THE IN DRAMA A inhabitants of Ollantaytambo. Ollantaytambo. of inhabitants ponchos , 63 Southern Andes North Coast

A splendid world of preincan cultures of different nature, and of living towns that opens in the north of Peru. The desserts, the valleys, the dry forests, the coast, the beaches and ports, all shelter archaeological and historical testimonies with peculiar and defined features, which in addition to what can be appreciated in the southern Andes, in the center and in the Amazon, give account of the endless diversity that makes our country stand out.

64 give testimonyof this. Mangroves)(Tumbes Tumbes de Manglares the The and Tucume, days. Chaparri, these of ventures Peru in experiences traveler’s great the of one is inhabitant local strong and joyful northern, a by guided sites these Visiting populations. local the of life traditional the into look inside an get to traveler the allowing present, already is In the sceneries of the Peruvian coast, northern rural and experienced-based tourism at thesametimeonethathas larger amountofprotected territory. Tumbestropics.The is the Peru, like in alreadysmell smallest that region,the coasts towns, cities, the marvelous restaurants of countryside and marine food, and the blue Continuing up north, the dry forests accompany the traveler, and so do the traditional as naturalmountains. archaeological center composed by pyramids that as the result of rain erosion appear moche Tucumea while is Brünning, and TombsSipan Royal of found: are museums cultivated wherever they are found. In the small city whereof Lambayeque, two exceptional city vital all are cuisine a tasty a and is horse, paso TrujilloPeruvian the territory.marinera, the as such our traditions in plaza main largest the of contour the I te ot w hv Tujlo a euiu ct fmu fr its for famous city beautiful a Truijillo,tenement buildings), colonial and republican houses, that rise have in the center, drawing we north the n solares (colonial 65 North Coast The Blessed, Tumbes

The Manglares de Tumbes

A notable case of protection of a resource is the one happening in the Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary. This valuable ecosystem has been impacted during decades by logging and indiscriminate extraction of crabs and mangrove cockles. The local populations, which pressed by necessity act as predators, are nowadays in charge of an ecotourism project that protects and preserves the resource, and provides them with an environmentally friendly economic alternative.

66 Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION is after the town of Zarumilla, which is located on the km. 1.289. To the El Bendito community one can arrive via the Panamericana Norte highway. The detour HOW TO GET THERE navigation of its channels, and which also functions as an excellent resting site. At site. resting excellent an as functions also which and channels, its of the navigation to prior initiated is mangrove the of observation the which projectfrom lookout, the a to has value the add to of built shores been the also has on which pier, path The tourist estuary. a Zarumilla build to materials local used have they Also, Center where rigorous information is provided on the natural history of this mangrove. Interpretation an is there sanctuary the Inside resource. this of management the for created specifically wells in extractions mollusk of demonstrations make guides The asgather aswell information on fauna, the enormous biodiversity that is and not always visible to the new flora traveler. of species different the differentiate and see visitor to the allow and canoes in done are mangrove the human to outings a The as experience. nature sees who people by guided area protected the of nucleus the through transit to possibility the privileged: something traveler the offers project The visit motivatedbytheirinterest toappreciate itsqualityandbiologicalwealth. to come tourists as mangrove, the of care taking in interested most the are villagers local the present, at and reversed be to began situation original the work, and time activities with the goal of making a training serious entrance into organizationalthe topic of ecotourism. and With training the in actively participate to began Esperanza), Nueva ASEXTRHI the and Community (inthe Rural Bendito El the inhabitants Pedro, San The organized ASEPROHI them. with alternative an find and communities local the to close getting about was it place, first environment.In the of deterioration T E: P: Calle GrauNº427 Preference Tours andServicesE.I.R.L. www.tumbestours.com E: P: Av. Tumbes 341. Tumbes Tours S.A. E: P: Huáscar Nº309 Cocodrilo Tours S.A.C. INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] (072) 52-5518 (072) 52-4837 (072) 52-4133 e ctuim etr i te agoe eegd n 95 s n ntaie of initiative an as 1995 Pronaturaleza in in alliance with emerged the INRENA, mangroves and its the goal was in to stop venture the accelerated ecotourism he

boats, beach nature, faunaobservation, 6 masl province of Zarumilla, Tumbes

67 North Coast present, national and international tourists come to the mangrove brought by local tourism operators who are indirectly part of the project; there is also an interesting frequency of school visits from Tumbes, who learn in situ about the importance of the protection and conservation of a resource that is theirs.

The Manglares de Tumbes National Sanctuary has an area of 2.972 Ha and is located in the province of Zarumilla, in the Tumbes region. It was established as a protected area on March 2, 1988. It shelters a great diversity of aquatic invertebrates of economic importance for the local populations, as well as some species in danger of extinction such as the American crocodile. The main objective for the creation of the area is “the protection of the mangrove forest, species of aquatic invertebrates of economic importance and the American crocodile; and to promote recreation and tourism”. Along this line, emerged the current communal venture, within a concept of ecotourism propitious for the development of economic activities that contribute to the protection and

THE MANGROVE Mangrove is the word with which a group of species of trees and shrubs that grow in the tropics in the confluence of saline and fresh water are called. What most calls the attention in a mangrove are the roots, long enough to adapt to the tides, which cover and uncover the shrubs according to its daily flow. The mangrove grows by gaining terrain to the ocean, which then allows a great quantity of sediments and organic material of much use for the rest of the ecosystem. Of all the sceneries provided by the planet for life, the mangrove is one of the most productive. For example, the mangrove forests of Tumbes are formed by a group of up to 40 botanical varieties, and they constitute the refuge of an enormous variety of wild flora and fauna. About 150 species of birds inhabit this sanctuary, out of which 8 depend exclusively on this habitat; 37 species live in the shrub thicket close to the mangrove, in the estuaries and mangroves 43 species o birds have been identified and 26 species are migrant North American. It is said that 42 species of river fish can be found in the mangrove, and the existence of 93 species of fish, 33 of gastropods, 34 of crustaceans, and 24 of bivalves have been reported. Also, the presence of 12 species of mammals has been reported.

68 scenery and the extraordinary local cuisine. a space where to enjoy the northern marine importantcenter fortraditional fishing. It is paradisemangrovetheof cockles an and Pizarro, Puerto zones, buffer its towards nucleus the ofof visitthe thesanctuary to complement consists good onA moving profits inasustainablemanner. taking resource, the of conservation the these amphibians are bred and then then habitats. natural and their to returned bred are amphibians Here, these hunting. indiscriminative to almost Rivers due Tumbes have the from that dissapeared animals these of (Fishing project breeding a FONDEPES Fund), Development of kept entity area farm the this breeding by crocodile in the visit is to place Another dissonant voices. seagulls,intrulya extraordinary concert of and Night-Herons, cormorants, crowned Yellow- herons, gray and whiteBoobies, frigate birds, Blue-footed confused, Boobies, and altogether appreciate,Peruvian to reproductivecourtship. possiblethereisit thatgather there sleeptobegin to or their coveredis immenseby quantities birdsof Ithe isla de los Pajaros (Island of the Birds), thetide goes down. When the tide is high bythe red crabs that cover the sand when allowsobserving spectaclethe performed Hueso de Ballena Island (Whale Bonebeer,a veryfriendlyain Island)environment. The serve mangrove restaurants cockles rustic accompanied its wherewith out, stands Among them the Isla coast.del theAmor of(Love front Island) in spread islands the saltedandpina.alsoisessentialIt visitto seeitinitsfive varieties: red, white, black, to times, high and low thevisited during be mangroves can the Pizarro Puerto In n Tlr) fr te Biosphere the Reserve ofthePeruvianNorthwest. form Talara), and Sullana of provinces the in Piura, of north the to (located Angolo reserve Hunting El the with two, last These Reserve. National Tumbes the and of it also extends to the Piura Region) part (which Park National de Amotape Cerros the Sanctuary, National Tumbes de Manglares the Tumbes: in Areas Protected three are There forests. tropical and weather characterized dry by and place special a equatorial line, they turn the the zone into meet they when and found, be can cordillera eastern the of foothills last the territory is this In ecosystems. varied Tumbes and rich that diverse, of fact scenery the to due occurred has This area. conservation as catalogued is territory its of 33% areas: protected most the has that in Peru and at the same time, the one smallest the Tumbesis of region The TUMBES OF AREAS PROTECTED 69 North Coast Tucume, Lambayeque

Craftsmen from Tucume

Tucume is reached via Chiclayo, or also through Sican, crossing the Pomac forest. It is an archaeological site of the Moche culture, erected in the dry forest close to towns where the living culture is the soul of the place. A project supported by the Nailamp Executant Unity and a local patronage –sponsored by Backus and the World Monuments Fund- focused on the activities of the local craftsmen add value to the visit.

70 W: E: P: Tucume Museum INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION always take the road to the town of Lambayeque. Tucumelocatedis 35kmat(30min) theto north Chiclayo of pavedviaa highway. Onemust HOW TOGETTHERE are mostly standardized and of low quality, into original products with a cultural cultural a with products original into quality, low of and standardized mostly are which services, and products local transform to is challenge The identity. local new the with association its to thanks valued services, and goods generating in consists of the processes based on development giving value to patrimony the archaeological According to a found document in the base generative of the project: “the third phase dishes, accompaniedwithfresh chichaascomplementtothe visit. northern of array excellent an Tucumefromtraveller ladies the offerthe gastronomy: with happens same The identity. cultural local the of context the all reflect that but nowadays, techniques made pieces in traditional used been have There, which rescued, been have museum. designs and the to adjacent store handicrafts the and guided by highly qualified guides. But a new element enriches the visit: the workshop Pyramid, Larga Huaca the to and museum the to visit the includes tour tourist The the Community, HandicraftsandGastronomy. to Integration Conservation, and Research components: four has Museum Tucume sustainability.The its ensure to order in community neighbouring the integrates that constructive pattern recreates traditional prehispanic architecture. It is a whose living content, ethnological museum strong with proposal a is It culture. Lambayeque the of throughgoing of experience pleasant demise and life development, the of step every the visitors the provides TucumeMuseum The America. South of all in construction adobe largest the is it Indeed, height. of 30 and width of 280 length, of meters 700 dimensions: largest the with building the is Larga Huaca bricks. adobe of thousands T

[email protected] (074) 83-0250/42-2027 [email protected] the great constructions constituted by 26 monumental buildings made with out of he Tucume Archaeological Complex has an extension of 22135 Ha; there stand out

gastronomy, nature culture, archaeology, 45 masl province ofLambayeque 71 North Coast identity that can be recognized by the tourist, and at the same time, is attractive to the urban consumer. To generate this added value many strategies have been put into place. One of them consists in using prehispanic iconography to attract potential consumers”. This objective has been fulfilled in Tucume, to the extent that they are managing to commercialize their handicrafts at an international level.

The craftsmen from Tucume make jewelry, bags, chests, and paintings, among other utilitarian and decorative accessories that are exported and exhibited in local and international fairs. They have formed an association which represents the families of the community. On their part, these artists train the young to expand the activity and thus, improve their quality of life.

THE HORCONES This is an exemplary lodge for its adaptation to the natural and cultural environment. It is located very close to the Purgatorio hill, one of the most important huacas of Tucume. It was built with materials found in the area such as adobe, quincha (reed and mud) and even carob, which have revaluated the elements used in this part of the country. The rooms follow a rustic line in terms of color, decoration, beds, cupboards, and nightstands. The building won the first price in the Biennial exhibition of Architecture in Lima on 2002.

72 whose testimoniescanbeappreciated intheexcellentadjoiningmuseum culture,Sican the of appreciatevestiges can the Protectedone a Areawhich is in textiles. Zaña show the rests of the colonial opulence, while the Forests of Pomac its and yarn traditional its for famous Monsefu, and weaving, reed its for known well is it as mentioned be must Eten handicrafts its for known cities to reference Pimentel to In Bays. Jose San Eten and Rosa Santa the and from beaches, beautiful of 14km are there Cayalti; agrarian and the Pucala museum, Pomalca, Tuman, Brünning of the cooperatives Museum, Reales Tumbas Tucume the the find museum, can we areas surrounding the In Muses). the of (Walk Musas las de Paseo the and convent Maria Santa the the Palace, plaza, Municipal the main cathedral, its out stand Chiclayo of center the In Rajada. Huaca in Sipan of Lord the Tombof the as such attractions tourist numerous has Lambayeque TO VISIT IN LAMBAYEQUE 73 North Coast Lambayeque

Chaparri

This was both the first Private Conservation Area to be created in Peru, and a successful communal tourism and conservation venture of the Santa Catalina de Chongoyape Rural Community in Lambayeque. A process of recovery of the dry forests put into place by the community to protect the species of fauna in danger of extinction shelters by this intangible forest, has in Chaparri, amongst palosantos (Bursera graveolens), pasallos (Eriotheca discolor) and hualtacos (Loxopterygium huasango), the traveller can obtain a great experience of nature and peace.

74 Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION road. TheentrancetoChaparriisthrough anunpaved road. The Chongoyape community is located at 66km (1h) to the east of Chiclayo throwsh a paved HOW TO GET THERE routes of the rescued species, as well as paths related to the archaeological and and archaeological the to related paths as well as species, rescued the of routes observation diverse following of opportunity the has one There patterns. following mochica materials local with built cabins beautiful some in stay can travellers the reserve the In habitats. natural their into reinsertion their for ready them get they and forests they take care of Andean bears, guans, White-winged guanacos and condors, and Private of of Communal management model a protected resource, In recognition. with its international a is Chaparri Today it. of portion tourism the managing and a villager,the project also local Plenge, supporting continues generations. to coming horizon ample more and healthier a giving in and lost been had what recovering in interested villagers local the of tenacity the by sustained initiative an began Conservation they formally plan, management Private rigorous a first through and time, our that At as Ha. 34.000 with categorized Area was Chaparri 2001, December In inhabitant oftheseforests. bear,Andean the guans, White-winged ancient guanaco, the and condor Andean the the as such reserve the in species threatened the rescue to conditions the create to also but resources existing the protect to sought venture The front. conservationist the towards and itself community the within way its made project the little by Little the aim of establishing an Ecological Reserve and in this way, conservationist preserve the dry forest. with of association Naylamp the advice created community and this Plenge, support Heinz photographer the With language. their from eradicated been has hunt word the present,Yet, at hunters. fox and guans bear,White-winged deer,as history long a with breeders,them stock areof and They most farmers small C W: E: P: Karen Belatin-AnahiWilliams-AnaPlenge INFORMATION ANDESERVATIONS

[email protected] (074) 45-2299 www.chaparri.org ogyp i te lss tw t te at Ctln o Cogyp Rural Chongoyape of Catalina Santa Community, and the the villagers go there to to do their shopping town and run their errands. closest the is hongoyape

ecology, conservation. watching, treks, adventure, nature, bird and flora 3 doublecabins 3 matrimonialcabinsand 150-1.553 masl Lambayeque province ofChongoyape, 75 North Coast cultural resources of the area, such as the route of the huachuma, as the San Pedro cacti are referred to on the north coast. A great experience is that of visiting Chaparri guided by the locals. Very committed people who know the forest perfectly and who are in condition of providing privileged information. Furthermore, Chaparri is a perfect place to rest, within the forest, surrounded by birds, taking fresh baths in the dam river, watching the humming birds playing over our heads.

THE DRY FORESTS History has not been respectful with the dry forests of the north of Peru, which could be considered amongst the most valuable habitat in the planet as a result of the biodiversity they shelter. Uncontrolled logging to get wood and building materials, hunting and stock breeding have been, ever since the Colony until now, the biggest threats against its subsistence. Before the Conquista, it is documented; the local inhabitants managed the forest with a rational and conservationist criterion.

Many entities that defend the environment look at the dry forests with a special alert, and they watch over their protection and conservation, based on the idea that the local inhabitants have to be directly engaged with the endeavour, as otherwise, these resources will be irremediably lost.

76 allowed therescue forlifeoftheWhite-wingedguanbegan. bird in the San Isidro ravine. From then on, a complex and fruitful process that has Thus, an expedition directed by Del Solar and John ornithologist O’Neill found the bird with the characteristics of the guan had been sighted in Olmos, Lambayeque. a that confirmed which farmer local a from news the received Solar Del 1977 In specie. the repopulate and rescue to sought and north, the of forests dry the in search have a begin to must Solar del still Gustavo conservationist specimen convened she the and existed that sustained Peru, in intensively worked who it declared community extinct. Towards scientific the second half the of the 20th century, Ornithologist disappearance Maria Koepcke, its with confronted When lost. completely was trace Centuryby its then 19th Taczanowsky, but the Ladislao of environmentalist half the second during described first was specie This THE WHITE-WINGEDGUAN 77 North Coast Northeast

The regions of Cajamarca and Amazonas are part of the Nor-Amazon circuit and they contain first level tourist routes, in the unique synthesis that Peru exhibits among archaeology, history, living cultures and natural resources. The route begins amongst the green countryside of Cajamarca, sharing the smiles of their joyful inhabitants, and it ends between the walls decorated with friezes of the Chachapoyas, in the humid forests of Amazonas.

78 sustainable tourism offer in the Peruvian northern Amazon. textiles. Little by little, other initiatives along the same line expanded the promissory andIn Amazonas the town of Maria with its accommodation houses and the rescue of their Cajamarcathe Encañada and Sulluscocha rural and cultural projects poverty. In open prevalent their doors. a to against fight initiatives that, with over and culture, living take their travelers offer today of inhabitants the nature, splendid a by surrounded and tradition with filled amazonians, and cajarmarquinos these, as such spaces In repeat symbolicfigures workedonsandstone. that friezes regulariconography, on chacha consists the which of style unmistakable the during approximately inhabited years 800 and 1500 of our era. Without was doubt, a defensive fortress, Kuelap it and constructions rock 400 than more contains It sites. archaeological Chachapoyas the all of known most the is Kuelap a balcony over the wonderful Laguna de los Condores (Lagoon of the Condors).that contains the Chachapoyas and Inca funeral deposits, found Throughin a mausoleumthis road open oneas accesses Leimebamba, headquarterstraveler.offersexperiencethegreatPeru thethat of of regenerate an water,one andthe extraordinaryis museum encountergiganticthe Marañon Rivercutting never-ending the cloudforests thatkeep C o o rm aaac t Aaoa truh h dset rm eedn and Celendin from descent the through Amazonas to Cajamarca from go To ajamarca is a beautiful city with pleasant weather surrounded by a green countryside. shows the 79 Northeast Amazonas

Maria-Kuelap

Experienced-based and adventure tourism is starting to grow in the Amazonas region where the famous kuelap complex is located, as well as an immense number (it is calculated that more than five hundred) of archaeological testimonies of the Chachapoyas and Inca culture. Today, in the locality of Maria, a new component is being prepared directly contribute with the improvement of the income of the local population through their handicrafts (textiles, leather work, etc) and lodging in family houses.

80 Coordinator forthePromartuc IIProject Lic. FrancoFlores Romero INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION via an unpaved road. The community of Maria is located at 36km from Tingo that is at 34KmHOW TO GET(1 THERE h) from Chachapoyas all the population have been taking place. The idea is that the inhabitants of Maria, Maria, of inhabitants the that is idea The place. taking been have population the all with planning on participative workshops this, For rescue. of cultural plan of a major the of charge in one complex task of preparing the the in population the is topic of tourist services in the PROMARTUC context is acronym whose program integral An traditions. and affections their with customs, and uses their in of stage culture, on is, that at local based final own their scale; their that services can they offer quality so population its the organizing and on training important: most is is what on working are Maria they nowadays However, to visits. the increase to Chachapoyas contribute it and from construction, goes that highway The and muleteers. and accommodation mules, and horses of hiring occasionally, and services guides as well as for meals, asking village the by living appeared and also resources little, culture, archaeological by its see little to by Amazonas project; to required the arrived who be of travelers to engineers began and inhabited, personnel left technical were archaeologists, that houses lodging original The by Narváez. Alfredo monitored is archaeologist, that Maria in project initiatives archaeological new a previous point its starting again as using up take archaeological to to decided dedicated promotion entities cultural its and research through State the times, recent more In ofidentity.the with the local rescue poverty against the fight to integrate sought that textiles for workshops of of line this creation the stagnation generated ventures in these of The lack the continuity making. on, later and mid-90s) the (during houses I F: P: Calle Omicrón 492, Carmen de la Legua, callao Caritas delPerú Development Management ofEconomic-Productive generate a good offer of esperiences-based tourism, such as habilitating lodging lodging habilitating as such tourism, esperiences-based of offer good a generate to destined activities some Maria in develop to tried have they years, previous n 613 5210 613-5200 anexo 121

bird watching, adventure. culture, archaeology, nature, 20 doublerooms 2.385 masl Amazonas province ofChachapoyas, 81 Northeast of all ages, get actively involved in the development of tourism. An important line of the project is the one that works with school children in an activity denominated “How I love my town”. Moreover, the Mincetur has established the objectives of a Plan of urban development for Maria that has been handed to the municipal authority, just as it has been done in the neighboring villages of Tingo and Kuelap.

As a result of the workshops above mentioned they have defined specific interventions of recovering some urban spaces in these towns as part of the Copesco Plan, where they must respect the typology of the use of stone and wood in the constructions for tourist services. The PROMARTUC contemplates the construction of a lookout for visitors, where they will exhibit the products made in Maria and in other communities of the area and the region. These products are the ones that come from the hands of the craftsmen and craftswoman who have been working in textile workshops, using waist and pedal looms, and sowing machines. Moreover, they are bringing back traditional leather work

GIVING VALUE TO KUELAP Kuelap is the most important tourist attraction of Amazonas, with its high walls, its circular constructions and its towers opened over the abyss. The archaeological complex has a Master Plan for its recovery; between the years 2003 and 2006 5 and a half millions of soles have been invested in conservation efforts. In 2007 a portion of the exterior wall was improved and of the drainage system; stairs to access the interior of the fortress have also been built, and interior edifications have been recovered. In a recent visit the Minister of Commerce, Industry and Tourism, Mercedes Araoz declared that: “Kuelap has gone from a state of emergency to a state of tourism product to be used”.

82 to incorporate Maria in the tourist tourist the in Amazonas. of positioning Maria incorporate strategy to marketing a design which will they with organizations social different local the consolidate to seek they time, same the At cabinet-making. and aae i ubn em, s the is terms, urban in managed knowledge. well very Chachapoyas, of city The archaeological and adventure of combination the optimum by conformed is Condores de los Laguna the hand, other the added. On be to has Leymebamba of mausoleums impressive the which offer,to archaeological Dead, the complete the of Town the and of Macro constructions the Revash mausoleums, the The sarcophagus, of Carajía tourism. niche the on esperiences-based part their do all they others, amongt Hierbabuena, Choctamal, La Jalca, Duraznopampa, Maria, Longuita, Tingo, Lamud, Luya, of towns The fall. of meters 771 with waterfall, the third highest in the world Gocta with the as circuit such attractions great this of part becomes Region Amazonas The Urubamba. upper of Valley the of part as circuit Nor-Amazon the to belongs Kuelap ENDLESS AMAZONAS sites mentioned. the all of visits the for point starting 83 Northeast Cajamarca

Porcon farm

Tourist visits to the Porcon Farm have been promoted since 1998, when the Atahualpa-Jerusalen Agrarian Cooperative decided to undertake an initiative in this sector destined to improve the quality of life of its inhabitants. The strategy consisted in transforming an inhospitable place in the Andes into an attractive town surrounded by pine forests where the community supply tourists with all the necessary comforts in terms of lodging, meal, and guides, as well as a pleasant stay that allows sharing their daily activities.

84 Jr. GabinoUribe650,Huaraz CAT Atahualpa-Jerusalén INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONs Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION The Porcon farm is located at 31 km (1h) to the north of Cajamarca through an unpaved road HOW TO GET THERE destined tothemaintenance oftheforests. responsiblecontrolledand profits The hunting. be from will obtained deer hunted the has become necessary; thus, they will also have a new attraction for travelers fond of intervation deer,human of population the control that predators natural of absence the with as reserve, animportant hunting a establish to permit a forests INRENA the with negotiating they are In the present, At developed. has observing, worth trout. deer, White-tailed contain of population rivers the enthusiasts fishing the For sites withthesafetyneededtoenjoy. appropriate environment to take walks, to do horseback riding or to camp in different production of potato seeds and the stock-breeding tasks. The Porcon Farm offers an the forests, the of maintenance the pines, of plating activities the as such daily cooperative, the the of in tourists of participation the is visit the of attraction main The potatoes, ocas, ullucus, lamb meat, hen, beef, guinea pig, rabbit, and lately, trout. inthe restaurant and in the preparation of meals based on their local products such as personnelThetrainedbeenPromperu hasby Cenfotur andprovide servicegoodto a Sierra Verde Hotel-Inn, allows athe panoramicof location view The of environment. allpure the and landscapehealthy a of surroundedbythe restPorconpleasant afarm. polluted and stressful. The inhabitants offer lodging at affordable prices and they ensurewherebreatheto interpenetrateandairnew lifestylewitha different city,thethatofto of adequate services have rendered the cooperative into a model of the idealone generateddestination by the productive activities of the Porcon Farm, as well as the availability T E: P: Pedro ChilónQuispe [email protected] (076) 36-5631 e oprtv dvlp dfeet aite o cmua tuim uh as such tourism communal of varietiesexperienced-based tourism, differentrural tourism and ecotourism. develops The wild beauty and cooperative the he

gastronomy trekking, nature, culture, 30 intheforestry house 21 inthelodge, 3.300 masl province ofCajamarca

85 Northeast In the farm there are seven tourist circuits to be offered which show the local handicrafts, the zoo, the vicuñas, the waterfall and cascades, the Inca trail, the milking of cows, the cultivation of potatoes, the feeding of sheep, among the activities performed on a daily in the community.

All CAJAMARCA Other tourist attractions worthy of visiting in the city of Cajamarca are the Cathedral, the church of San Francisco, the Belen Monumental Complex, the lookout on the hill, the Rescue Room, Santa Apolonia, the Inca Baths; and outside the city we find the archaeological complex and the Cumbemayo Rock Forest, the Ventanillas de Otuzco, the towns of Encañada and Namora, the extraordinary Kuntur Wasi archaeological complex and museum, among many others.

86 signs with biblical messages along the highway, as 96%To ofthe impact the produced 53 byfamiliesthe landscape onethat must add theare disciplined part presence of than nine thousand hectares that have been forestedis thewith onlyalmost associative thirteen venture million of thispines. sort that is still successful.property Today,was kept under there the are form more of a cooperative calledAlejandro Atahualpa-Jerusalem, Quispe- thewhich distribution of the land in reforestationparcels wasproject putstopped into place byBelgiana and mission- theand to the work collectiveofleader Atahualpatheto SAIS(Social Agrarian Systems). There,thankssupport thea toof Intheorigin ofthePorcon Farm isanold hacienda that theLand Reform integrated FOLLOW TO EXAMPLES of the farms as associates, practice the evangelic faith. 87 Northeast Cajamarca

Vivencial Tours In the countryside of Cajamarca it is possible to have the experience of staying with the local families, organized by Vivencial tours, which allows the traveler to taste the meaning of the natural and cultural space. The possibility of experiencing day-to-day life in Encañada and Sulluscocha is combined with adventure sports and archaeological knowledge. This project is pioneer in its genre on the Peruvian Northern Andes and it distinguishes itself for its authenticity. The host families really welcome the traveler and invite him to share with them their days, their farming chores, and their affections.

88 Highlights: Accomodation: Altitude: Location: USEFUL INFORMATION Encañada is located at 30 km (45 min) to the east of Cajamarca via paved road. HOW TO GET THERE quality of the service. The Encañada has a two-bedroom accommodation, each one each accommodation, two-bedroom a has Encañada The service. the of quality the of management and festivities, traditional of strengthening and rescue identity, aspects related to ecotourism, such as creating awareness on cultural patrimony and The two families that receive tourists in both communities have been trained in diverse by hishosts,withtraditionalmusic and dancessettingthemood. chance to sit around a warm fire and listen to stories, myths and Andean legends told manufacture of hay hats. Then, after a long day on the fields, the traveler will have the the in and work, reed and iron wood, in guitars, of making the in participate traveler the make will they and craftsmen areexpert him welcome will that villagers local The terraces or homes, in irrigation works and in the preparation of the land for cultivation. He will also have the chance to be part in communal work such as the construction of according totheseason. other,and among quinoa, pears, prickly barley,chocho, legumes, beans, lima ocas, maize, potatoes, as such area the of products different harvesting by either chores farming the of part be to and cattle the graze to family the accompany to able be will he then song, cock’s the with up wake to wishes visitor the If ovens. mud in bread prepare to how learn to privilege the have also fires; they wood on pots mud in them breakfasts, traditional of lunches and preparationdinners with agricultural goods the harvested during the on season, and cooking participates traveler and the Encañada In Sulluscocha extinction. of verge the on lifestyle a about learn and host his of conditions living the of improvement the with collaborating time same the at while T www.vivencialtours.com [email protected] E: P: Av. SanBorjasur1134Of.503, Ana MaríaCacho/Mabelsolorzano INFORMATION ANDRESERVATIONS [email protected] / (00511) 224-3401 / 224-3367 in the activities of the fiel and shares the lives of the villagers that welcome him, welcome that villagers the of lives the shares and fiel the of activities the in he premise of this total experienced-based venture is that the traveler participates

based tourism, agriculture. handicrafts, experienced- archaeology, gastronomy, nature, trekking, boats, 4 for16visitors 3.000 maslapprox. Namora, Cajarmarca province ofEncañadaand

89 Northeast THE GOOD COUNTRY TABLE Vivencial Tours has two country homes prepared to accommodate travelers in areas separated from the family room. During the stay the traveler will taste typical dishes from the region prepared by the women of the community. The breakfast consists on barley coffee, wheat and legumes accompanied with cachangas (fried bread) with caramel or cheese, boiled potatoes and soup. For lunch one can chose between a potato and rice stew with guinea pig; fried pig with peeled mote; soup with barley and corn flour; picante of potato with legumes and corn; chupe of potatoes or limabeans with barley flour; chicken stew; and boiled potatoes with grinded bell pepper and wheat rice. The dinner, much lighter, consists on freshly baked bread with cheese or caramel, soups or infusions of local herbs.

for three guests; though it is also possible to camp close to the house. Amongst the activities of this community, stand out the visit to the Tambomayo trout farm, a town that has a beautiful church with an adjacent cemetery. It will be possible to appreciate the traditional wheat mill powered by the force of water, the farming school, the Sunday farming fair, the beautiful route through the ancient Cápac Ñan.

In Sulluscocha the house also has two bedrooms, very warm and with a splendid view of the lake of the same name. Among the activities offered by the family, is the trek to the Kollor archaeological site and the San Nicolas Lake, passing through small villages on the basin and sighting species of local flora and fauna. Also, the visit to the rests of the Capac Ñan, beginning the walk from Sulluscocha to the Baños del Inca, with flora and fauna observation. In the close town of Llacanora it is possible to visit beautiful waterfalls as well as the Callacpuma caves that has abundant cave paintings.

90 the Andean Cosmo vision. vision. Cosmo Andean the of portion a understand to traveler the allow and nature of force the to All omens. these moments ceremonial are and linked songs recite and cigarettes Inca traditional the smoke liquor), (cane cañazo drink they Then chacchar (chew) the sacred of coca leaf. time the precedes that bonfire a with begins ritual The view. sacred and telluric own their to according the combined and adapted have farmers that and domination, religious western despite from souls. country extinguished the have be that to resisted gods Andean ancient earth), (mother Pachamama the to and mountains) and to (hills Apus rituals offerings the do mythical they which ancient during in be of and can part traveler Encañada the La Sulluscocha, in Both RITUALS GRATITUDE 91 Northeast Central Andes

Ancash is a region set apart by towering mountain ranges, by dazzling glaciers, and by ever-lasting snows. As well as being site of the Huascaran National Park, it is one of the world’s most privileged alpinism hubs. The Peruvian traveler usually visits this region to travel throus the Huaylas Canyon, the charming villages scattered throughout, and its incredible mountain chains. However, the Conchucos Valley hides one of the greatest surprises for visitors from the country or from any spot on the face of the planet.

92 marvelous spaces. marvelous Konchucos the Tambo as Trek such or the Inka each Naani, of which the enrich traveler’s of these experience tourism, experienced-based and rural and adventure, for of variety a from enterprises, national and initiatives international NGO’s, entrepreneurial and local are communities that there offer options setting historical and beauty natural this To all network. entire the of preserved best the as some by considered Trail, Inca of stretch large rather a to thanks Incas the of presence the see You can Pampa. Huanuco and a breathtaking background to the wonder of archeological site like Chavin de Huantar mountains and fabulous lakes complete the superb natural and ecological panorama, Majestic meters. 3,500 to meters 2,550 from fluctuating elevations in out spread are valley this in Villages flourished. and B.C., 1300 and B.C. 900 between somewhere C at dazzying 3,820 masl. This is the area where the Chavin culture establisherd establisherd culture Chavin the where area the is This masl. 3,820 dazzying at Huari, capital, its and region western central Ancash’s in located is onchucos 93 Central Andes Ancash

Konchucos Tambo Trek On the grounds of the former Cochao plantation, in the Conchucos Canyon, there is a modern lodge where travelers will find an excellent combination of comfort and contact with nature. The lodge was created by Asociacion Ancash, is promoted by the Antamina Mining Company, and run by a consortium formed by Explorandes and Rainforest Expeditions. Besides providing jobs and contributing to the sustainable development of the zone, this project is a source of educational funding for the area’s young people since the money they make is allocated to financing their training in tourism.

94 F: P: Rainforest Expeditions Information andreser Highlights: Altitude: Elevation: Location: U asphalt road that will take you to Sihuas and that traverses the entire Conchucos Canyon. SanMarcos is located at 73 Km (2 hrs) from Catac, the town that marks the beginning of the HOW TO GET THERE and tourist services (restaurants, lodgings, tour conductor, tour guides of all types types all of guides tour conductor, tour lodgings, (restaurants, transportation, services tourist and handicrafts, trade, different construction, the all agriculture, in like workers sectors, for involved income greater in results which jobs, indirect and direct both producing is zones Marcos San and Huari the in development Tourism from the community of Carhuayoc, famous for its traditional weavings. craftsmen master handicraftedmagnificentfeature, their by decorativeall textiles are aremodernandcharming, designed withtheentire familymind.added inanAsroom offers guided tours to spots perfect for local animal and plant observation. Guestrooms Valley.RiverMosna lodgethe nature, theSimilarly, inintereststravelers whose liefor of the more than twelve routes, horseback ride, mountain bike, and motorcycle around adventure and experienced-based tourism. From the withlodge’s coupled are people)facilities, 42 you canof trekmaximum any a to accommodations(limitedscale small semi-rustic, which in one Peru, in else where no found concept a offers lodge The natural andculturalheritagefoundthere, allthrough thevehicleoftourism. as well as to contribute to strengthening people’s cultural identity and conserving the promote jobs and to generate incomes in the Huari Province and its area of influence both. purchasing to created specifically strategy throughone to answer an is initiative Ancash foods Asociacion This native of production the as well handicraft as support development and practices, and customs regional about learn can travelers which in activities initiate to them encouraging by area the of people identity cultural that is contributing to improve the local and regional economy. It is also reinforcing the T www.perunature.com E: S

421-8183 [email protected] 421-8347 E F promotes a type of tourism that is alternative and at Region, the Ancash the same of area time beautiful this sustainable, Tamboin Trek,Konchukos one located he UL I NF

OR M nature, culture Trekking, archeology, 18 accommodations 3.200 masl Huari Province, Ancash ATIO N v ations 95 Central Andes – from rafting and mountain biking to horseback riding – camping organizers, field cooks, etc.). As icing on the cake, the lodge and all its associated activities fall clearly within the highest standards of corporate social responsibility.

Opportunities for local young people The Konchucos Tambo Trek is supplying jobs to the area’s young people who have been trained in hotel management, housekeeping services, and restaurant and bar service by the company, SODEXHO, which also caters to the Antamina Mining Company. So, the hotel is not just an option for travelers, but it is also trainer grounds for the local population through workshops and courses on the type of tourism linked to the protection and conservation of natural and cultural resources. At the beginning, the trained young people came from the towns of Chavin de Huantar, Huantar, San Marcos, and Huachis. Monies used to cover training costs come from the lodge’s accommodations and catering profits.

96 eeomn wr wt native of department the with in its communities work for and development national distinctions different international many owner is of Expeditions, Rainforest partner, its responsible Likewise, management. socially environmental, and in cultural, and practices environmental best in it accrediting 14000, ISO certified is credit, Explorandes, its to Technoserve. TourismNGO, – international the TrainingCenter,and CENFOTUR entities: This other two included also venture Expeditions.joint Rainforest and ecological Explorandes known tourism: adventure and in well most enterprises the national of two of consortium a to given being this in administrator institution, which resulted lodge’sselection process for choosing a hotel nationwide the a up opened 2004, organizers December In Best PracticeConsortium Madre de Dios. 97 Central Andes Ancash

Inka Naani

This project takes its name from a Quechua expression used in the Conchucos area that means “foot path constructed by the Incas”. The enterprise was launched in 2004 as an initiative by the Mountain Institute and in association with different villages and towns along the route. It is set out upon a stretch of approximately 75 Km of the Great Inca Route, starting at the village of Castillo, Ancash, and ending at the archeological site of Huanuco Pampa, in La Union, Huanuco.

98 P: Jr. GabinoUribe650,Huaraz Yachaqui wayi Information andreser Highlights: Accommodation: Altitude: Location: U is asphaltedtillyoureach SanMarcos. road that will take you to Sihuas and that traverses the entire Conchucos Canyon. The road the of beginning the marks that town the fromCatac, hrs) (4 Km 110 is Huari of village The HOW TO GET THERE other, similar paths, and they will have access to an intercultural experience through through experience to an intercultural access have will they and other,paths, similar of traffic the without yet difficult relatively route mountain high the find will Visitors work. and life of way and traditions, language, shepherds’ and farmers enterprising these enables that learn to locals them the with sporting adventure for chance the there find will who travelers world all for option privileged a presently is It Kuntur.body, local the and Institute Mountain the by supported was project Naani Inka the beginning, the From are there where territory sites. archeological a amazing extraordinarily of heart the in being of and Huaraz of city the to close being of advantage the plus this of All route. the along scattered towns small the of of the natural surroundings to the world and offer lodgings in homes of the inhabitants was to open this resource, archeological alive and sporting a face life, and initiative the beauty this behind idea The Peru. in routes trekking after sought most the of one into path ancient this develop to together joined Mayo), de 2 of district Huanuco the (in Pampa Huanuco and Ancash) Province, Huari of district Huachis the (in Castillo between located communities, of group a 2003, of end the At llamas. by helped are they times many goods, their transport to pathways paved flagstone wide the use still people While construction. original their since passed have years of hundreds if even resource valuable a still are roads Pre-Hispanic these Cordillera, Huayhuash the and Park National Huascaran the from throw stone’s a Canyon, Conchucos the the entire network are found there. For the people living in the inter-Andean valleys of I W: S

as stated by Ricardo Espinoza, an expert on this resource, the best stretches of of stretches best the resource, this on expert an Espinoza, Ricardo by stated as the Andes, great n Ñan Capac the Trail)(Inca northern is the called and Inka Naani, (043) 42-6538 E www.yachaquiwayi.org F UL I NF

OR M and culture trekking, archeology, nature, lodges alongtheroute average of 3500 masl Huari Province, Ancash ATIO N v ations 99 Central Andes living in the communities themselves, enabling this way to appreciate the Andes fully. The placement of this section of the Inca Trail makes it easy for the traveler to combine this cultural and adventure experience with circuits found in the White and Huayhaush Cordilleras and with visits to Huanuco Pampa and the temple of Chavin de Huantar.

Families involved in this project earn money from providing tourist services that complement their regular jobs. In addition, the population has been able to enhance their schools and local communities (in cooperation with groups associated with solidarity tourism), and families have built their organizational capacities so that their projections and proposals for their homes are based upon standards of sustainable management. Moreover, the project has the support of the city governments of both Huari and Huachis for helping with the conservation of the paths and for the development of a sustainable tourist product.

Archeological wonders The Inka Naani connects two important archeological vestiges: Chavin de Huantar and Huanuco Pampa. The former was a pilgrimage site of enormous import for the people who lived three thousand years ago in what is now Peru. The famous Peruvian archeologist Julio C. Tello, found that Chavin was the cultural model for the oldest civilizations in Peruvian territory. The site is composed of spectacular stone temples and squares, yet, by far its most impressive aspects are the subterranean galleries. Artifacts of religious sculpture found on the site bear witness to the truly sophisticated skill of Chavin’s artisans with some of the best examples being the Lanzon and the Raimondi Stela. Its counterpart, Huanuco Pampa, was built by the Incas in the second half of the fifteenth century as an important administrative center in the network of roads that interconnected the empire. Out of all the Incan ceremonial altars discovered, the Huanuco Pampa’s is one of the finest.

100 region’s overalldevelopment. to make a genuine contribution to the in the end, they can be capitalized on so, values these strengthening them, identity and the cultural nature that surrounds their of framework guiding an the within evolve should that one but as seen activity catalyzing a and opportunity be should tourism learning, that their Within for development. means more one posses will they that their and nature and culture preserving to added value is throughthat so therefamilies tourism farm for spaces learning promote to 2) and surroundings nearby their in development support they that order NGO in government city local as well Kuntur,as the local like strengthen organizations, to overall 1) other objectives: two has project The Looking towards the future 101 Central Andes

Amazonia

The territory of Peru encompasses 84 out of the 104 life zones identified on planet Earth, and these contain more than the 20% of the plant and animal species of the entire planet. The greater part of this biological wealth is found in the Amazon, where scientists have recorded more than 25,000 plant species, around 1,800 bird species, 361 mammal species, 251 amphibian species, 297 reptile species, and more than 2,500 fish species.

102 Amazon, are RumboalDorado,Rainforest Expeditions,andCasaMatsiguenga. Peruvian entire the for setters standard examples, such Three resources. natural of conservation the to due State, the by watched closely are Amazon the of part this in forests the visiting for Choices restaurants. fabulous its and handicrafts, quality high Puerto of city Maldonado the because of visit its to lively and have colorful you market, its Region, numerous Dios stores offeringde local, Madre the to travel you When of 2,080,000hectares. find the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve, second largest reserve in Peru with you an where area also is Region Loreto The Rivers. Itaya and Nanay the of confluence the at River Amazon the of banks the on located Loretois It place. fascinating truly a is Region, the of capital Iquitos, tourism. experience-based and ecotourism involving businesses for sites main and East Peruvian the of cities main the doubt without are Maldonado Puerto and Iquitos wealth. natural overwhelming an possess that forests T e mzn ein eis n h wsen lps f h Ads n descends and Andes eastward towards the the vast Amazonian plain, which of is formed by different slopes types of western the on begins region Amazon he 103 Amazon Manu, Madre de Dios

Casa Matsiguenka

This enterprise invites travelers to penetrate the Manu National Park, one of the most important natural resources on the entire planet and classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The project fits under the category of ecotourism, understood as a natural resource management activity that provides communities with incomes on the basis of protection and conservation of the area. In this way, the native populations become the first and best allies of the park, and this same responsibility is conveyed to the visitor.

104 Highlights: A Altitude: Location: U In order to get there it is necessary to contact an authorized agency. CasaMatsiguenka islocated ontheshores ofLake Salvador inside theManu National Park. HOW TO GET THERE Amazon, anextremely traumaticepisodein historyforthearea. survive the forced labor recruitment during the time when rubber extraction swept the to managed people these how about and Matsiguenka the of culture and history the learn history,can Center,travelers Visitor language, the In their practices. medicinal traditional with and farming contact direct in being inhabitants, the with life daily interestingmost the course, Of sharing is aspect ornaments. and clothing making for and hunting, and fishing for use they implements making for techniques the travelers teach also will peoples Native lakes. mentioned above the to leads that system a trail along forest the of tours guided on you take will they and guides, be to dwellers community Youhire lodge. can the run directly of they that seeing groups, inhabitants ethnic local with meet to opportunity the guests its to offers Matsiguenka Casa after youhavereceived permits from theirauthoritiestodoso. on the banks of the Upper Madre de Dios River. You can visit these communities only located zone, buffer park’s the in communities native Amarakaeri and Matsiguenka also are There wildlife. its and forest the with relationship their for as well as beauty scenic their for attractions great Park are which Dios, National de Madre Upper the and Manu of the are rivers main The jaguar). a even lucky, are you if and, herons, turtles, capybaras, macaws, (peccaries, reptiles and birds, mammals, banks, the on resting or eating see, to possible River,is Manu it the on travel During birdwatchers. of disposal the at tower observation an places Otorongo Lake otters. giant curious the as such animals, other and hoatzin, the like birds, of diversity great a to habitat is River, Manu the by createdSalvador, Lake splendor. its all in wildlife Amazonian T E: P: Av. ElSol627oficina305,Cusco Margot Valer Empresa multicomunalMatsiguenka Information andreservations

ccommodation: SEF [email protected] (084) 22-5595 e xeine s necial ad o nesad t yu ae o ie t Once it. inside Manu live and in the adjoining areas of Casa Matsiguenka, to you can appreciate have you it, understand to and indescribable is experience he UL I NFOR

M and fauna,boats,lakes watching, Amazonianflora nature, hiking,bird 24 bedsin4modules 200 m.a.s.l. de Dios Provinces of Manu and Madre AT I ON 105 Amazon VISITING EDEN The Manu National Park boasts an area of 1,716,285 ha (17,163 km2), making it the third largest national park in Peru’s National System of Protected Areas, a system that covers 12% of the country’s total land area with 163,774 km2 of territory under its protection. Manu itself is found in the jungles of two departments in southwestern Peru, Madre de Dios and Cusco, contains different ecological tiers, and ranges in elevation from 300 meters to 3,900 meters. It is furthermore the country’s protected area with greatest amount of biodiversity, holding world records for various natural aspects, such as number of species (1000 bird, 1200 butterfly, 13 monkey, and 7 just of macaw), percentage of the plant species of the world at 10%, and many others. Within its boundaries live several threatened species, like the jaguar, river otter, harpy eagle, and the black caiman.

The Empresa Multicomunal Matsiguenka is property of the native communities of Tayakome and Yomibato. Profits gained from tourism are evenly distributed between the two communities and are later invested in social activities for improving their members’ living conditions. Close to 600 people are direct beneficiaries of those investments. Similarly, tourism helps maintain the communities’ cultural characteristics, the most important being the sustainable use of the park’s natural resources, an effective contribution to its conservation and reproduction. Every inch a lesson in ecotourism.

106 inhabitants themselves built the lodge. the that isbonus people.Addednative are modeled off the cultural forms of the facilities Matsiguenka Casa of location and showers. Design, construction, and and kitchen restroomsforanother and roomdining the as used is module beds.One24 grandtotal of aeach, for characteristic rooms double three with modules four features their Matsiguenka Casa warmth. with welcomevisitors who members community Matsiguenka employ directly services SalvadorOtorongo.Lakeandthe All to guided excursions to and the surrounding areas and food, accommodation, Casa Matsiguenka offers transportation, In dig eno u s Project Project s 107 Amazon Madre de Dios

Rainforest Expeditions Rainforest Expeditions is a Peruvian ecoturism company, founded in 1982 under the mandate of providing of an authentic ecotourism experience that is both educational and sustainable through conserving areas in which it operates. It runs three lodges located in the tropical jungle: Posada Amazonas, Refugio Amazonas, and the Centro de Investigaciones Tambopata (Tambopata Research Center). From the moment of its launch, it defined itself as an ally of the local native communities, and its association with these is already a paradigm for other enterprises to follow.

108 Highlights: A Altitude: Location: U embark in the Infierno port and then sail a boat for 40 minutes. Maldonado.PuertofromnecessaryTo30mto thereis located 1h get AmazonasPosada is HOW TO GET THERE location is ideal for introducing the jungle to travelers. Opened in 2005, it has 24 24 has it 2005, in Opened travelers. to jungle the introducing for strategic ideal lodge’s is The location Maldonado. Puerto Tambopata from the hours in three River just Dios Reserve, de National Madre the to close very sits Amazonas Refugio clay. mineral-rich the eat to cliffs nearby the to spectacle of color and sound as hundreds of macaws and parrots flockon daily basis a lick, clay the is attraction lodge’smain The heart. its at Amazon the experience to endangered several where looking travelers and researches Reserve, for alternative the perfect the is lodge The live. species of National one Tambopata in the located of is areas TRC The remotest research. and recreation for both 1989, since animals, The Tambopata Research Center (TRC) has been welcoming tourists and and researchers plants observing boating, others. and lectures, paths, specialized to listening thematic along observation an hiking from canopy tower, forest the observing Chimbadas, Tres like Lake activities, visiting different includes members This trip. whose concession. entire the for community, them tourism the guard and in guide year will experience 20 a wonderful a granted have can been Travelers has Expeditions Rainforest and Infierno, of community native Ese’eja the to belongs lodge The both wildlife. of and nature conservation promotes which product ecotourism beneficial a together work develop to they which in one is company owned privately the the and between community relationship is the It because project Infierno. pilot of successful a community be to native considered the with association its to due America, Latin P www.perunature.com E: F: P: Av. ElSol627oficina305,Cusco Rainforest Expeditions Information andreservations ccommodation: SEF 421-8183 [email protected] 421-8347 of being one of the most outstanding lodges and nature destinations in in destinations nature and lodges outstanding most the of one reputation the being earned of has then since and 1998 in opened Amazonas osada UL I NFOR

M ethnobotanical center. lakes, macawclaylick, over forest canopy, watching, canopytower Nature, hiking,bird 30 doubleaccommodations 200 m.a.s.l. Madre de Dios Province of Tambopata, AT I ON 109 Amazon rooms. The Madre de Dios River is habitat to a variety of mammal and bird species. Like with the Posada, Refugio Amazonas has boats for excursions, an observation tower, and a network of paths, but what sets this lodge apart is the agreement it signed with the ANIA Association, in which they have established a Children’s Forest where visiting children learn about the ecosystem and how to respect it through a series of recreational activities.

AMAZONIAN FORESTS AND ETHNIC GROUPS Madre de Dios is a region where virgin jungles abound and maybe the least touched and eroded area in the Peruvian Amazon. Besides, the combination of its rough geography, countless microclimates, and soil varieties has fostered the development of a wide range of life forms. Land of wide rivers and gorgeous lakes surrounded by a lush vegetation, Madre de Dios is the ancient home to several indigenous groups, like the Ese’eja, Machiguenga, Yine, and Haramkbut, as well as around a thousand indigenous people living in voluntary isolation deep in the jungle close to the mouths of the Manu, Las Piedras, and Tahuamanu rivers, following the cycles of the forest as they hunt and collect.

110 holding worldrecords indifferent zoologicalgroups. and the Tambopata National Reserve, sitting on an area of 1,478,942 hectares and located, is planet the on existing biodiversity varied most and greatest the where savanna of the country is protected, the Manu National Park (1,532,806 hectares), humid tropical only the where Park, National Bahuaja-Sonene the like Peru, all in Likewise, it is a hub of Protected Natural Areas featuring some of the most valuable trees). palm aguaje of area (swampy aguajal extensive and fauna diverse its with Sandoval Lake and Laberinto, of town the to next Valencia Lake time, summer during swimmers by preferred Castañales, Los Lake is there department, this in The selection of natural attractions in Madre de Dios is immense. Among the lakes O PP ORT U N I T I ES

FOR

ECOTO U R I S M 111 Amazon Pacaya Samiria, Loreto

Rumbo al dorado

This is the name of a spectacular product for nature lovers. It is located on one of the river basins encompassed by the Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve. It began after years of work among different conservation entities and three communities of colonists (Yarina, Veinte de Enero, and Manco Capac) who settled in the Yanayacu-Pucate river basin. It is an ideal product for birdwatchers, researchers, photographers, and nature lovers.

112 Highlights: A Altitude: Location: U connected to the city of Iquitosis whichby anNauta, asphalted of roadtown (95 km,the 1hfrom 30m).minutes 30 and hour 1 is Enero Veintede of village The HOW TO GET THERE grasp the enormousgraspthebiodiversity reserve. bankstheabounditsjacanas,of On herons, concentrationof vegetables substances in dissolution in the water, will allow travelers tripA totheorigins to oftheYanayacu River, blacka water river, consequence ofthehigh can takepartinmanagementactivities withthelocalinhabitants. Amazon. largest the Visitors the in paiche, fish the and arawana, fish, ornamental the project, renesting its and turtle under River Amazon taken yellow-spotted the arelike consideration, species important management, wildlife to comes it When fruits. tree palm aguaje of techniques harvesting non-felling and hearts) (palm palmito of such shining examples as the huasai palm tree reforestation project for the production with aresuccessful, they visibly and population, local the of lives daily the areof part In the Yanayacu-Pucate River Basin, activities that promote sustainable resource use the riverotter, andtheelusivepinkdolphinthatlivesin lakesofthereserve. monkey,spider Peruvian the turtle, American South Giant the manatee, the caiman, wild plant black the and like species, endangered and threatened are here protected cultivated Also species. 1024 and fish, 256 amphibian, 58 reptile, 240 mammal, 102 bird, 500+ fauna: and flora varied a host that forests floodable and swamps by basically formed is it reasonwhy a Amazon, the depressionsof biggest the of one in located is reserve The ecotourism. of standards the following resources such of use the through lives their enhance to determined seriously and resources natural their to committed very are and services food and accommodations, information, guide, that are seen no where else in the Amazon. Here, the villagers themselves provide tour F www.pacaya-samiria.com P: Elías Aguirre 460-201,Miraflores Consorcio RumboalDorado Information andreservations ccommodation: SEF 241-0559 will be able to observe unique plant and animal species, world not aquatic Pacaya-Samiria’sto awe-inspiring to mention coming traveler landscapes the week, a or UL I NFOR

M hiking, conservation. fauna, boats,sportfishing, Amazonian floraand Nature, bird watching, each 2 bedrooms with4beds Below sealevel Province of Loreto AT I ON 113 Amazon RUMBO AL DORADO CONSORTIUM It is a community-owned and operated company, the result of a socio-economic development project aimed to promote the sustainable use of biodiversity in fragile ecosystems. The people have proposed earning Neotropic cormorants, and a large variety income through ecotourism and being of parrots. In its middle section you will continuously trained, as well as sharing find the community of Yarina, which is the administration of the business. placed in a zone of high biodiversity, where more than 250 different bird species have Consortium partners are: Green Life been reported and includes a completely – Civil Association for the Preservation uninhabited, rigorously protected area. The and Sustainable Development of the great variety of wildlife in the sector features Amazon, ProNaturaleza – Peruvian marvels, like pink dolphins, macaws, and Foundation for the Conservation of primates of different species. The river Nature, the Veinte de Enero Palm Tree begins at Lake El Dorado, an impressive Management Committee, the Yarina body of water almost 500 ha in area, where Community Fishery Unit, and the Yacu the community dwellers of Manco Capac Taita (Quechua for “father of water”) have managed to repopulate the paiche Fishery Unit of Manco Capac. and the arawana for their sustainable use.

114 is is seasonally,and floods flat, and network by covered complex vegetation thick a land The mm. 3,000 to up of level precipitation yearly a and humidity, high 27ºC, of temperature average an with weather, tropical by characterized is region The Pucate, with the latter being site Yanayacu- of the the Rumbo and al Pacaya, Dorado Consortium’s the operations. Samiria, the basins: river three encompasses It world. the in river powerful most River,longest, the Amazon and the to Ucayali whichgivesthe birth to right before south, their the confluence north the to Marañon the it: border rivers forest. large Two tropical floodable the like ecosystems fragile protects and resources its of use makes that human more a population to of addition in area diversity an biological high a possessing hosting and Peru, ha in million 2 areas than protected largest the of one is It P of rivers, lakes, and ponds. and lakes, rivers, of ACA Y A - SA MI R I A

NAT I ONA L L RESERVE 115 Amazon