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AUGUST 2014 | OUR 36TH YEAR AndrewHarper.com TRAVELING THE WORLD IN SEARCH OF TRULY ENCHANTING PLACES

IN THE NEWS VIENNA, BRATISLAVA AND BUDAPEST Rajasthan Enchanting Capitals of the Danube Newcomer FOR DECADES, Indian palace hotels were synonymous with the Taj group, and first-time visitors to the subconti- nent would inevitably find themselves strolling the lawns at the Rambagh Palace in Jaipur at some point. Then along came Oberoi, with its modern versions of palace style at properties such as Rajvilas and Udaivilas. Now, the market is set to be transformed by SUJÁN Luxury Hotels, which already operates three acclaimed tented camps in Rajasthan. Its latest View across the Danube to the venture, SUJÁN Rajmahal Hungarian Parliament Building in Pest, Palace, will open in from a vantage point in Buda Jaipur in November. The PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER 18th-century palace has been comprehensively ALTHOUGH VIENNA NOW RULES OVER A COUNTRY ONLY SLIGHTLY LARGER THAN modernized and South Carolina, it still feels like the capital of an empire. The atmosphere is elegant and refurbished, yet retains its Mughal splendor. serene, miraculously unperturbed by the traffic and tourists of the 21st century. This time, I I will report as soon as visited in late spring, when the city’s fragrant linden trees were in bloom. But I love autumn, possible. SUJANLUXURY.COM too, when savory game dishes start appearing on restaurant menus, and even winter, when

This Issue the Christmas market glows beneath the spires of the neo-Gothic City Hall. Along the Danube In warm weather, the inviting terraces of the cities. Palaces, theaters and grand public buildings The best of Vienna, Bratislava city’s many cafés and restaurants draw locals and replaced the medieval walls, and luminaries such and Budapest travelers alike, while the numerous world-class as Klimt, Schiele, Schönberg, Mahler, Freud and Hungarian Retreats Country house hotels museums prove endlessly diverting regardless of the Wittgenstein transformed the city’s cultural life. Fogo Island Inn season. Vienna is also an ideal starting point for a Vienna now has a conservative reputation, but during Dazzling Newfoundland debut trip through Central Europe, and, on this occasion, the time of the Secession, it was a churning center ! Online This Month I traveled down the Danube to Budapest, pausing of experimentation and innovative design. However, Favorite small museums in in Bratislava, the capital of . World War I dissolved the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Vienna and Budapest, a slide- show of Bratislava, and my In the half-century prior to World War I, and World War II left its cities partially in ruins and pick of Rhode Island wineries Vienna ranked as one of the world’s most exciting thousands of its citizens dead or displaced.

For personalized trip-planning assistance, call (800) 375-4685 or email [email protected]. AndrewHarper.com | For comments and inquiries concerning The Hideaway Report, please email [email protected]. Favorite Vienna Cafés

Café Sperl Just a Contrasting Junior Suites at Sans Souci and Hotel Imperial short walk from the PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER MuseumsQuartier, Sperl has a relaxed Old World One of the things I find most fascinating about lamp illuminated a pearl-gray velvet chaise and ambience, with stuccoed traveling through the region today is that the Hoffmann-inspired adjustable armchair. A white ceilings, brass chandeliers and banquettes uphol- tumultuous past — the grandeur of empire, the wingback headboard wrapped around the king stered in appealingly destruction of war, the depredations of communism, bed, an abstract Lichtenstein print hung above a worn velvet. Cell phones the restoration of free-market democracy — is still silver baroque-style console table, and an oversize aren’t allowed, and music clearly woven into the fabric of its cities. History crystal chandelier crowned the spacious composite doesn’t play. Portions feels electrifyingly immediate. quartz-tile bath. tend to be large and satis- fying. CAFESPERL.AT Whether staying at the Sans Souci or not, any he Bristol, Sacher and Imperial hotels — all visitor to Vienna should stop by Le Bar, located just Café Prückel Those seeking more of a “Third T of which I recommend — have long been to the right of the small but striking lobby. This Man” atmosphere could preeminent in Vienna. But several other five-star jewel box resembles a tiny version of Versailles’ Hall hardly do better than options have appeared, aspiring to challenge their of Mirrors, with low lighting, velvet-upholstered Prückel, right on the status. In the last two years, the city has seen new Louis XV-style canopy chairs and a fine selection Ringstrasse near the Museum of Applied Arts. Ritz-Carlton, Kempinski and Park Hyatt properties of Champagne by the glass. I made a point to visit The furnishings don’t open in landmark buildings. However, my preference Le Bar each evening after a relaxing swim in the appear to have changed being for smaller hideaways, I opted to stay at the spa’s long lap pool. I did not dine in the hotel’s since the 1950s. I ordered 63-room Sans Souci, which opened less than two Secessionist-style restaurant, La Véranda, but I very an Eiska!ee, a delicious and refreshing concoction years ago in a central but secluded location behind much enjoyed the beautifully presented of vanilla ice cream and the Kunsthistorisches Museum. buffet there each morning. The Sans Souci seems co!ee topped with real Initially, the Sans Souci’s website aroused one targeted toward affluent 30- and 40-somethings, whipped cream. or two misgivings. Describing the property as a but we felt very welcome and comfortable, and I PRUECKEL.AT “charismatic luxury hotel,” the home page seemed wouldn’t hesitate to return. Palmenhaus This to be trying to be hip and edgy, and I worried that Firm traditionalists have no shortage of hotels barrel-vaulted glass the staff’s attitude would match. Fortunately, from in Vienna. The Sacher, set behind the opera house conservatory was origi- nally a palm house for the the moment of our arrival, the service proved to in the old quarter, exudes fin-de-siècle Viennese adjacent Hofburg Palace. be good-humored and outstandingly helpful. In charm, while the nearby Bristol just emerged from a Fine weather prompted particular, the concierge, Dora, worked tirelessly to thorough renovation. Its main restaurant, the Bristol us to sit at one of the secure reservations for the popular “-Abend” Lounge, is one of Vienna’s most beautiful dining outdoor tables facing the Burggarten. Along with dinner held Thursdays in the soaring cupola hall rooms. But for palatial grandeur, the 138-room Hotel a slice of torte, we opted of the Kunsthistorisches Museum. I also liked the Imperial has no equal. Set in the 19th-century for glasses of a citrusy design of the hotel, which manages to be opulent, Ringstrasse palace of Prince Philip of Württemberg, Sauvignon Blanc from witty, stylish and Viennese all at once. Our bright it also recently emerged from an overhaul of its the Neusiedlersee and a rich, spicy Grüner Veltliner Junior Suite, the smallest room category I would public areas, including its café and breakfast room, Smaragd from the recommend, successfully combined contemporary, redone in a very attractive Secessionist style, and Wachau. PALMENHAUS.AT mid-century modern, Wiener Werkstätte and its glittering main bar and lounge, the awkwardly ! Read online about more Imperial design elements into a surprisingly named 1873 — HalleNsalon. This space revels cafés in Vienna and Budapest. cohesive whole. In the living area, an Arco floor in unabashed opulence, with immense crystal

2 hideaway report | August 2014 chandeliers, gleaming marble-paneled walls, plush compact old center and the idyllic surrounding seating and intricate parquet floors. Our Imperial countryside studded with hilltop castles that will Junior Suite on the third floor was no less regal. truly enchant the visitor. Known for centuries as Panels of gold silk damask covered the walls Pressburg, Bratislava served as the capital of Hungary decorated with gilt-framed landscape paintings for almost 300 years. Nobles erected numerous and crystal sconces. Heavy melon-colored drapes palaces during this period, many of which still shaded windows facing the Ring, and the dainty stand on car-free squares and cobbled lanes. I never sofa and inlaid-wood secretary would surely have saw a single vehicle in the main square, where only pleased the Princess of Württemberg. Regrettably, café tables, pedestrians and the odd bicyclist came the peach-colored marble bath was rather dated and The main between me and the Renaissance, baroque and art small, with a disappointing shower-tub combination. pedestrian street nouveau architecture. The main pedestrian street Service remains excellent, however, and staffers “ of Ventúrska has of Ventúrska, culminating in the onion-domed greeted us by name whenever we entered or left. dozens of bars and Michael’s Gate, has dozens of bars and restaurants With just 34 rooms, the Palais Coburg restaurants with with inviting outdoor seating. And perpendicular Residenz felt much less intimate and personal than inviting outdoor to it, leafy Hviezdoslavovo Square is a less crowded the Sans Souci or the Imperial. The most expensive seating. version of Barcelona’s La Rambla. There, one of my hotel of the three, it occupies a neoclassical palace favorite restaurants in the city, KOGO, serves tasty perched on part of the former city wall. Its garden terrace is a delightful place for breakfast or , and its gourmet restaurant, Silvio Nickol, has an extraordinary wine list and a well-deserved two Michelin stars. But both spaces are accessible to the public, making it unnecessary to subject your pocketbook to a stay. Service ranged from pleasant to forgetful to simply rude. Our promised newspaper PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER ANDREW BY PHOTOS didn’t come; the hotel never responded to an e-mail Langoustine tail with fresh goat cheese at Silvio Nickol, and a take-home box of sweets from Onyx requesting a dinner reservation; and, at breakfast, an overwhelmed waiter snapped when I tried to get Memorable Restaurant Discoveries his attention with a polite “Excuse me.” Alas, the DINING IN VIENNA, Bratislava and Budapest is a delight. Many regional wines are not hotel’s capacity to irritate did not end there. We had exported, which makes wine lists especially exciting. to use an electronic key in four separate locations Silvio Nickol The restaurant at the Palais Coburg serves exquisitely presented and to access our room, and the key did not work on outstandingly delicious , but what really stood out was the audacious wine pairings. certain locks such as the staircase or the spa (they’re The sommelier fully exploited the vast breadth of the restaurant’s cellars, matching, for reportedly working out the bugs). Most suites are example, an acidic and smoky Zierfandler (a grape found only in Austria’s Thermenregion) with a gorgeously rich dish of tête de veau and liquid quail yolk topped with artichoke and duplexes, and though ours was quite comfortable, shiitake mousse. And I’ll never forget the extraordinarily refined Swiss Pinot Noir paired it didn’t make up for the hotel’s other flaws. The with a dish of dove breast, cranberry, beetroot and Savoy cabbage cream. COBURGBASTEI Palais Coburg devotes its attention to diplomats 4, VIENNA. TEL. (43) 1-518-18-800. COBURG.AT and to hosting events. Individual travelers will be Modrá Hviezda On a cobbled street beneath Bratislava’s castle, the “Blue Star” serves happier elsewhere. traditional Slovak dishes in its bright, wood-beamed front room and in candlelit brick vaults. I tried a duck liver-stu!ed pasty served atop thyme-infused caramelized spring onions and crunchy apple slices, and a remarkable dish of whole fresh trout stu!ed with hen I planned this itinerary, I would never and mushrooms, accompanied by expertly roasted potatoes. When I attempted W have guessed that it would be a relief to leave to add a tip to the check, the waitress firmly replied, “No. Service is already included.” the Palais Coburg and head southeast to Bratislava. BEBLAVÉHO 14, BRATISLAVA. TEL. (421) 948-70-30-70. MODRAHVIEZDA.SK Just an hour from Vienna, the Slovakian capital Onyx Everything at Onyx is over the top, from its Cubist-meets-Versailles décor to its languished for decades behind the , and all-too-tempting cart, with more than 20 varieties (try the apple bread with some communist planners did not treat the city kindly. house-made pâté, or the squid-ink bread with some pumpkin seed oil). The tasting They ran a freeway between the historic center and menu seeks to elevate traditional Hungarian recipes to the level of . The foie gras in rhubarb gelée was among the silkiest I have ever sampled, and the the castle, knocking down all but two buildings soup tasted rich and beefy, flavored with a combination of co!ee beans, lemon peel and of the former Jewish quarter, and on the opposite paprika. A “21st-century Somló sponge cake” was a decadent concoction of walnut cream, side of the Danube, a neighborhood of single-family chocolate and crunchy walnut “crumbs.” All-Hungarian wine pairings rose to the occasion. homes was replaced with countless anonymous VÖRÖSMARTY TÉR 7-8, BUDAPEST. TEL. (36) 30-508-0622. ONYXRESTAURANT.HU concrete apartment blocks. But it is Bratislava’s ! Read online about additional restaurants in Vienna, Bratislava and Budapest.

August 2014 | hideaway report 3 Italian at shady outdoor tables and on a glass- cramped seating group. The room had other minor covered patio. Indeed, Bratislava has many good problems, such as a rainfall showerhead too large Budapest restaurants, where food ranges from delectably for the stall and an inexplicably small amount of Food Tour sophisticated to simple and satisfying. A wooden storage in the walk-in closet, but otherwise, the bowl full of homemade halušky topped Arcadia made for a very comfortable base. The A GOOD RESOURCE to with fresh sheep’s cheese and lardons makes an barrel-vaulted restaurant served an ample and fresh consult before a trip to Hungary is “Food Wine excellent lunch for two. breakfast buffet; the Library Bar offered a cozy space Budapest” by Carolyn Bratislava does not have any blockbuster for a digestif; and the basement spa had memorably Bánfalvi, which has attractions, which means that it draws far fewer dramatic black-and-white mosaics and blood-red sections on everything tourists than its more famous neighbors. But that Murano-style chandeliers. Most important, the staff from pickles to pálinka. is not to say it is devoid of interesting sights. My were unfailingly personable and polite. Better yet, reserve one of Bánfalvi’s culinary walks favorite stops were the Pálffy Palace, which has On the other side of the Old Town, the 28-suite in Budapest. Our guide, changing exhibitions of modern and contemporary art nouveau Tulip House Boutique Hotel Vidag, led us through art; and the Národný Salón Vín cellars, which provides a close second choice. Its location is Budapest’s Central offers tastings from its curated collection of the almost as good as the Arcadia’s, and we received a Market Hall, procuring delicacies such as year’s 100 best Slovak wines. All eight I tried were complimentary upgrade to the Luxury Suite, a giant paprika-spiked sausages, delicious. Indeed, fine local wines can be had all one-bedroom apartment with Swarovski crystal- mulberry wood-smoked over town, and beer lovers can hop from brewpub studded furnishings, a guest bath and a full . cheese, and lángos (fried to brewpub. Starosloviensky Pivovar has a pleasant It was quite comfortable, but minor problems added topped with sour garden in the back, but newly opened Le Šenk Craft up, preventing me from recommending the property cream, shredded cheese and garlic). From there, we Beer Café has the most stylish interior. The old wholeheartedly. Attention to detail was not the Tulip went to a chocolate shop quarter has its problems, including graffitied side House’s strong suit. At turndown, our curtains were for sour cherry and plum streets and numerous unrestored buildings, but drawn, but our bed remained covered by a decorative pálinka tru"es, and to a even unpromising-looking façades often conceal blanket and numerous throw pillows. And when local “” restau- rant serving delicious fare surprisingly chic restaurants and bars. The lanes some technical issues arose, the problems were such as cream of celery beneath the castle are full of them. only half-solved. soup with cheese, and I could happily have spent a week relaxing with fresh in Bratislava, which has at least two hotels worth owing to return to Bratislava for a longer horseradish. We finished considering. My favorite was the Arcadia Hotel, stay, I turned with anticipation to Budapest. the tour with a selec- V tion of tortes in a small on a quiet pedestrian street in an ideal location a The energetic capital of Hungary has long been a patisserie, followed by a two-minute walk from the main square and Michael’s favorite European destination, and every time I visit, wine tasting in the cellar Gate. Renaissance arcades surround the bright I find new reasons to love the place. Ruled by the of a nearby bar. Vidag lobby, but parts of the building date to the 13th Ottoman Empire for a century and a half, Budapest helpfully recommended places where we could century. The 34 accommodations are charming, if retains an air of exoticism, only enhanced by the continue our explorations not outright luxurious. Done in red, gold and cream, impenetrable Hungarian language. The city has a of Hungarian food and our Junior Suite had vaulted ceilings, amber glass dense concentration of extraordinarily beautiful wine. TASTEHUNGARY.COM chandeliers and sconces, and an attractive if slightly cafés and restaurants, ranging from cozy Renaissance

Entrance to Arcadia Hotel, and Bratislava Castle

PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER

4 hideaway report | August 2014 vaults in the Castle District of Buda to flamboyant historicist and art nouveau extravaganzas in Pest. In most cases, the food lives up to the settings, and chefs take full advantage of Hungary’s rich selection of local produce and heirloom livestock breeds such as Mangalica pork and Grey . Hungary is also a major producer of quality foie gras, matched perfectly by sweet Tokaji wines. In season, the Castle District is crowded with tourists during the day but is wonderfully peaceful River-View Park Suite and lobby by sunset, when illuminated landmarks contrast at Four Seasons Gresham Palace vividly with the evening sky. It seemed like a good THUYSBAERT PAUL BY PHOTO CZECH REPUBLIC idea to spend a couple of nights there, retreating from SLOVAKIA TOKAJ WINE the traffic and bustle of Pest to the quiet cobbles VIENNA BRATISLAVA REGION of Buda. The 26-suite St. George Residence, set EGER Danube R. Danube R. BUDAPEST in three interconnected baroque houses built on AUSTRIA HUNGARY medieval foundations, has great potential. It first 060 MI 0 60 KM LAKE A operated as an inn in the late 18th century and KESZTHELY BALATON maintains a richly historic ambience to this day. PECS ROMANI SLOVENIA SERBIA Regrettably, the suites do not make good use of CROATIA their large size. Our Diamond Suite, the hotel’s top HARPER ANDREW BY PHOTO category, managed the trick of feeling simultaneously HOTELS AT A GLANCE cavernous and claustrophobic. The staff were never Sans Souci A94 LIKE The central yet secluded location; the helpful and down-to-earth sta!; the stylish design that does not less than accommodating, but the accommodations require any sacrifice of comfort; the long lap pool; the jewel-box bar. DISLIKE The vulgar website. GOOD are too inconsistent. TO KNOW In the coed spa, swimsuits are optional in the two saunas and steam room. JUNIOR SUITE, $525; " Though several properties have attempted to MASTER SUITE, $1,075. BURGGASSE 2, VIENNA, AUSTRIA. TEL. (43) 1-522-2520. SANSSOUCI-WIEN.COM compete, the Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel Imperial A93 LIKE The regal atmosphere; the attentive service; the Ringstrasse location. DISLIKE The shower-tub remains by far the best choice in Budapest. Its combination; the room safe, which was too small for a laptop. GOOD TO KNOW Accommodations on the location is peerless, directly facing the Chain Bridge first floor are grandest, but the second and third floors also have high ceilings. IMPERIAL JUNIOR SUITE, $800; ELIZABETH SUITE, $1,075. KÄRNTNER RING 16, VIENNA, AUSTRIA. TEL. (43) 1-501-100. IMPERIALVIENNA.COM " with sweeping views of Buda, and its art nouveau Palais Coburg Residenz 89 interiors have been exquisitely restored. The three LIKE The location near many top restaurants, cafés and bars; the garden terrace; the superb gourmet arcades forming the lobby shimmer with sea foam- restaurant. DISLIKE The confusing and inconvenient layout; the occasionally subpar service; the onerous security. GOOD TO KNOW The hotel can arrange wine tastings in its impressive cellars for guests and green Zsolnay tiles, stained glass, and mosaic-tile non-guests alike. CITY SUITE, $800; RESIDENZ SUITE, $1,025. COBURGBASTEI 4, VIENNA, AUSTRIA. TEL. (43) 1-518- floors writhing with black-and-white octopus-like 180. COBURG.AT tentacles. A pianist enlivens the elegant bar-lounge, Arcadia Hotel A90 LIKE The medieval and Renaissance architecture; the very friendly sta!; the central location; the charm- an ideal place for afternoon or a post-dinner ingly vaulted ceilings. DISLIKE The crowded furniture in our Junior Suite; the lack of views. GOOD TO pálinka (fruit brandy), and the art deco Gresham KNOW The restaurant serves well-prepared new Slovak cuisine, but it is frequently empty at dinner. JUNIOR SUITE, $340; DELUXE MAISONETTE SUITE, $750. FRANTIŠKÁNSKA 3, BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA. TEL. (421) 2-59-49-05- Restaurant presents a lovely breakfast buffet, 00. ARCADIA-HOTEL.SK " including a wide selection of local honeys. Tulip House Boutique Hotel 88 The most desirable of the 179 guest rooms face LIKE The airy and spacious accommodations; the pretty art nouveau building; the daily English news printout. DISLIKE The inattention to detail; the occasionally sloppy housekeeping. GOOD TO KNOW The the Danube. Our River-View Park Suite proved to hotel’s street is under major construction that won’t be finished for some time. DELUXE SUITE, $325; LUXURY be a junior suite with herringbone floors, Venetian- SUITE, $530. ŠTÚROVA 10, BRATISLAVA, SLOVAKIA. TEL. (421) 2-32-17-18-19. TULIPHOUSEHOTEL.COM style silk lamps and ornate plaster moldings with St. George Residence 86 a Mesopotamian motif. The oxblood-hued marble LIKE The charming Buda setting; the accommodating sta!; the tranquil garden courtyard; the price. DISLIKE The poorly conceived room layouts; the European-style tub with handheld shower. GOOD bath felt a touch small for the space, but the views TO KNOW The hotel has no elevators. GOLD SUITE, $175; DIAMOND SUITE, $340. FORTUNA UTCA 4, BUDAPEST, from the living area were stupendous. Each evening, HUNGARY. TEL. (36) 1-393-5700. STGEORGEHOTEL.HU we would fling open the French doors to our Juliet Four Seasons Gresham Palace A96 LIKE The peerlessly central location; the stupendous art nouveau design; the mesmerizing Danube and balcony and sink into the sofa, sipping glasses of castle views. DISLIKE The spa needed freshening: The Jacuzzi had mildew in the grout; and the pool’s Hungarian Cabernet as we contemplated the Royal tile had stains. GOOD TO KNOW Higher floors do not sacrifice high ceilings for the better views; the bar has several unique cocktails made with Hungarian spirits. DANUBE RIVER-VIEW ROOM, $560; RIVER-VIEW PARK Palace, the Matthias Church, the Chain Bridge and SUITE, $1,125. SZÉCHENYI ISTVÁN TÉR 5-6, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY. TEL. (36) 1-268-6000. FOURSEASONS.COM " the Danube, crisscrossed by cargo ships and pleasure A preceding a rating, denotes an o$cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information craft, as it has been for centuries. H on these, plus two additional recommendations in Vienna.

August 2014 | hideaway report 5 TRADITIONAL COMFORT AND FASCINATING WINERIES Castle Hotels in the Hungarian Countryside

MOST TRAVELERS TO HUNGARY EXPERIENCE ONLY THE CAPITAL, BUT A STAY IN THE provinces makes a rewarding extension of a Vienna-Bratislava-Budapest itinerary. We first headed two-and-a-half hours northeast to the most famous wine region in central Europe, Tokaj, driving ourselves from Budapest along well-marked and excellently maintained highways, eventually exiting onto narrow, winding country roads lined with plane trees. Roads in the Hungarian countryside are converted part of one prized hillside into a quarry, picturesque, but they lack shoulders. We had tantamount to turning a slope of the Côte d’Or into a fine time with our rental car, but nervous or a strip mine. inexperienced drivers should consider a chauffeur. Fortunately, a number of growers upheld the Fortunately, It may come as a surprise that Tokaj was one of traditions of quality winemaking, and today, Tokaj a number of the world’s first classified wine regions. Its vineyard thrives anew, with international investment pouring “ growers upheld sites received quality designations in 1700, a century into major facilities, complementing the many the traditions and a half before Bordeaux. The French and Russian excellent small family producers. Tasting wines in of quality royal courts coveted Tokaji wines, but phylloxera hit a region untouched by mass tourism is a joy. We winemaking, and today, Tokaj the region hard. The vineyards had not completely had little trouble arranging private winery tours thrives anew. recovered before World War II began, and they and tastings with owners and winemakers. Wine stagnated under communism. The authorities even lovers who can forgo reds for a day or two will be in bliss, tromping through 500-year-old cellars caked in (beneficial) black mold and savoring wines bursting with liveliness, freshness and power. The most famous wines of Tokaj are the sweet Aszú bottlings, but most producers also make superlative dry whites. Winemaker István Szepsy achieves especially impressive results. His dry Furmints reach the heights of fine white Burgundy, and his Aszú and Szamorodni wines exhibit remarkable concentration. The Tokaj region has no equivalent to Auberge du Soleil or Meadowood, but I found the 21-room Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel, a 19th-century country mansion, to be thoroughly charming. We reserved its only suite, located on the second floor with a balcony overlooking the formal gardens. The The pretty town of Mád in the Tokaj region spacious, neoclassically appointed living room was quite comfortable, with a crystal chandelier, parquet floors and a seating group upholstered in red-and-gold silk. I appreciated the ample storage space in the bedroom’s two armoires, and the black-and-white master bath had a separate shower and tub. We had a wine tasting of fine Gróf Degenfeld vintages in one of the hotel’s elegant salons, and the main restaurant served expertly prepared traditional , including a superb dish of heirloom Mangalica pork tenderloin with polenta. The hotel also has an outdoor swimming pool, tennis Attractive grounds of Hertelendy Kastély courts and, most important, an inexpensive shuttle PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER to take you to nearby wineries and restaurants.

6 hideaway report | August 2014 Regrettably, the cheerful service was helpful but BOOKSHELF not always to international luxury standards, and the hotel’s winery and restaurant recommendations ‘They Were Counted’ by Miklós Bán!y weren’t always to my taste. The Szent Tamás winery, for example, had excellent wines but an impersonal IN PREPARATION for a visit to the Hungarian countryside, pick up the first volume of Count Miklós Bán!y’s sprawling tasting experience. Even so, I would gladly return to and elegiac “Transylvanian Trilogy.” Now a part of Romania, the Gróf Degenfeld’s suite when next I visit Tokaj, Transylvania was for centuries an autonomous Hungarian touring family-owned wineries such as Erzsébet province, with a culture similar to that of regions in Hungary Pince, Barta and Arvay Pincészet, and dining either today. The first volume, titled “They Were Counted,” bounces between turn-of-the-century Transylvanian and Hungarian at the hotel or at the nearby Sárga Borház restaurant. country estates — where Bán!y brings to vivid life a lost world of grand banquets, hunting parties and formal balls e also explored the opposite side of Hungary, with gypsy bands — and Budapest, then a glamorous city of driving two-and-a-half hours southwest from horse races and casinos, roiled by political upheavals. The W printing I read runs more than 600 pages, but the intrigues, Budapest along a highway that occasionally opened duels and ill-advised a!airs kept me thoroughly engaged. Throughout the book, tremors onto vistas of 48-mile-long Lake Balaton. A two-lane presaging the earthquake of World War I rumble subtly underfoot. road leads south of the lake to a country retreat that is a destination in its own right. Encircled by apple orchards, pastures and wheat fields, Hertelendy Kastély looks to be straight out of the 18th century, but it was actually built as the centerpiece of a large fruit-producing estate in the 1920s and ’30s. This exceptionally gracious 16-room property harks back to an age of country house parties, with morning clay-pigeon shoots and afternoon tea in the salon. Our Junior Suite Deluxe (#14) was well- appointed and appealing, with wood floors, an Towers of the Church original olive-green ceramic-tile stove and a spacious of St. Anthony of Padua PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER bath with an immense soaking tub. Many attractions are within easy reach, including the pretty cities of The Baroque Splendor of Eger Pécs and Keszthely, but the estate itself is so lovely that I couldn’t bring myself to leave. We spent A THOROUGHLY ENJOYABLE STOP between Budapest and Tokaj is baroque Eger, a our days relaxing alongside the well-kept outdoor university town punctuated by grand churches and a ruined ridgetop castle. It requires a slight detour from the highway, but those who visit will be rewarded with winding cobbled pool, unwinding in the candlelit spa and enjoying streets lined with wine shops and boutiques, small squares full of outdoor café tables, wonderful on the terrace. Each night after and a grand central plaza surrounded by colorful baroque splendor. After you have dinner, I settled by a fire in the library with a novel seen the immense Eger basilica, the lavishly decorated Minorite Church of St. Anthony and a pálinka flavored with Hertelendy’s apples. I of Padua and the panoramic views from the castle, have lunch at Macok Bisztró just below the castle gate (TINÓDI SEBESTYÉN TÉR 4, TEL. [36] 36-516-180). I had a superb confit of especially enjoyed our horseback ride around the duck leg with kohlrabi cream paired with a Hangács Bikavér, a big but refined example estate — the stables are impeccably maintained — of the famous local “Bull’s Blood” wine. and our private class with Zsolt Hampuk, the good-humored and talented head . After HOTELS AT A GLANCE harvesting produce from the kitchen garden, we Gróf Degenfeld Castle Hotel 88 spent a delightful four hours preparing Hungarian LIKE The charming vineyard setting; the fine traditional restaurant; our large and elegantly decorated suite; the commendable on-site winery; the handy shuttle service. DISLIKE The winery and restaurant potato soup, chicken paprikás, Balaton pike-perch recommendations; the occasionally casual service and sloppy housekeeping. GOOD TO KNOW The and “golden dumplings” with vanilla . The hotel draws mostly Hungarians and other Europeans, making it more lively on weekends; there is only a single suite. SUPERIOR ROOM, $200; SUITE, $225. TERÉZIA KERT 9, TARCAL, HUNGARY. TEL. (36) 47-580-400. class was one of the highlights of our entire journey. HOTELGROFDEGENFELD.HU When the morning of our checkout arrived, Hertelendy Kastély A95 I was loath to give up the graceful rhythms of LIKE The genuinely warm sta!; the hideaway setting; the beautiful basement spa; the inviting pool; the combination of traditional décor with modern technology and conveniences; the delightful cooking class; Hungarian manor house living. Hertelendy Kastély the excellent meals. DISLIKE Accommodations above the ground floor have dormered windows and/or resurrects a lifestyle lost in the storms of war and sloped ceilings. GOOD TO KNOW Those not wishing to make the drive from Budapest can use the hotel’s airstrip. SUPERIOR ROOM, $530; DELUXE JUNIOR SUITE, $700. KUTAS-KOZMAPUSZTA 0120/4, HUNGARY. TEL. (36) the rush of modernity. Such places are increasingly 82-568-400. HOTEL-HERTELENDY.COM " rare, and I will treasure the memory of my stay. H preceding a rating, denotes an o$cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information A on all of my favorite hotels. ! Look online for a description of my favorite Tokaj wineries.

August 2014 | hideaway report 7 STARTLING ARCHITECTURE AND IMAGINATIVE CUISINE Fogo Island Inn: An Improbable Triumph

Iceberg Alley WHILE AT THE FOGO ISLAND INN, we hiked, toured, met with crafts- people and fishermen, and The striking exterior of the Fogo Island Inn even did a little foraging PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER along the shoreline. But without question, the I DOUBT VERY MUCH THAT HAD YOU ASKED A YOUNG ZITA COBB HER GOAL IN LIFE, most exciting activity of our stay was heading she would have replied that she wanted to create an inn of such singular design and ambition into the open sea to view that it would garner international attention and bring visitors from the world over to her the icebergs that drift by the island, carried on the remote island home off the coast of Newfoundland. But that is just what she did. Labrador Current. Most It would have been an improbable dream for 29-suite Fogo Island Inn to lure travelers in search of them break o! from the enormous Greenland the daughter of parents who could neither read nor of something utterly distinctive, and established five ice sheet. Once caught write. But Cobb had sufficient brains and drive to studios for artists-in-residence. Ancillary efforts, by the current, they form take her from an obscure island to the world of high chiefly made possible through micro-grants, would a steady procession tech, where she became one of the wealthiest people further bolster the island’s visibility and economy. along a route known as “Iceberg Alley,” with in Canada. As she says with extreme modesty, “I Cobb put these projects under the direction of the the prime season being was just lucky enough to enter fiber optics when community-owned Shorefast Foundation so she late May through June. the market took off.” did not have to satisfy investors. All profits are now From the floor-to-ceiling Returning to Fogo Island in 2005, she found it in reinvested in the island, an arrangement she calls windows of our room, a worse state than when she had left, its population “entrepreneurial philanthropy.” we could spot icebergs in the distance, floating down to less than half its former peak of 6,000. The There is no easy way to reach Fogo Island. We like phantom ships. Out cod fishery that had sustained life for centuries had first flew to St. John’s, in southeast Newfoundland, in a small boat, however, collapsed, and Fogo seemed destined to be forgotten. where we spent the night. Early the next day, we we could quickly see that Cobb was determined that this should not be the case. took a 45-minute flight northwest to Gander. This white ice was infused with streaks and dashes of blue So, with $43 million of her own money, she built the was followed by a two-hour drive to the ferry dock and blue-green, which and a 45-minute crossing. (Privately chartered planes QUEBEC Labrador Sea glowed with a neon-like NEWFOUNDLAND and helicopters can fly you from Gander directly to intensity as a result of the & LABRADOR FOGO ISLAND the Fogo Island airstrip.) With each step, however, I refraction of light. Our captain brought us close GANDER felt I was shedding a layer of workaday cares. enough to confirm that ISLAND As we drove from the ferry to the inn, the wild CANADA OF SAINT the majority of an iceberg Gulf of NEWFOUNDLAND JOHN’S landscape captured me as the more remote parts 0 200 KM — about 90 percent of it St. Lawrence 0 200 MI of Scotland and Ireland reliably do. Here were — does indeed lie beneath PRINCE shimmering bogs, ancient ribs of rock exposed to the surface. Back at the EDWARD ISLAND inn, we made sure to order NEW the elements, and an occasional village, its mostly BRUNSWICK NORTH our cocktails with iceberg white buildings crowded together like a flock of ice, which gives o! a NOVA ATLANTIC SCOTIA birds huddled at the edge of the sea. OCEAN distinctive crackly pop as The first sight of the inn comes as quite a shock. it melts. UNITED STAT ES In this remote setting, it looks almost as though it

8 hideaway report | August 2014 has descended from outer space. Cobb turned to Here were Society, founded in 1956 by a group that adheres to Newfoundland native Todd Saunders — an architect shimmering bogs, the notion that the world is indeed flat, designates now based in Bergen, Norway — to design the inn “ ancient ribs of rock Brimstone Head, a rocky promontory on Fogo, as one and the five outpost studios. The main four-story and the occasional of the four corners of the world. This eccentricity structure is cross-shaped, with one axis supported village, its mostly aside, I found the island utterly unspoiled and a by angled metal poles. Light gray outside, it is stark white buildings place of spectacular and elemental beauty. Our white inside except for wooden floors and pieces crowded together visit was during summer, but I can easily envisage of painted furniture manufactured on the island. like a flock of birds a winter stay, with bonfires, ice skating, ice fishing I was delighted to find that our room — like huddled at the and bracing hikes. Indeed, one staff member told every other — had a wall of windows overlooking edge of the sea. us, “Winter is when we have the most fun.” H the ocean. Aside from an exceptionally comfortable bed, we found a large walk-in shower with “slip- free” tiles, plus quilts, furniture and wallpapers all handcrafted on Fogo. There was no television, just a panel allowing guests to set a level of white noise if they are disconcerted by the silence. The interior of the resort flows with an organic unity. The main floor contains an inviting library and a large art gallery, as well as reception, a bar and an extraordinary dining room with double-height windows looking out to sea. Much of the produce used in the kitchen comes from Fogo or nearby Our suite, the library and Parmesan-crusted cod at Fogo Island Inn areas. (Every morning at breakfast, we saw people from the inn out foraging along the shore.) Chef Murray McDonald’s food is both imaginative and artistically presented. For example, an unforgettable lunchtime dish called “Ocean in a Bowl” was a masterful concoction of smoked lobster broth with local scallops, shrimp and seaweed. My other favorite dish was perfectly cooked island beef with a surprising spruce gremolata, potato purée and a crisp, rich marrow croquette.

The best way to begin a stay on Fogo is to ask PHOTOS BY ANDREW HARPER # View a Fogo Island slideshow online. the concierge — who, like most of the unfailingly charming staff, is a native islander — to arrange Quilts and Carvings at the Artisans’ Guild a “host visit,” a tour of the island with a longtime JUST BESIDE THE TURNOFF to the Fogo Island Inn stands Wind and Waves, the resident. We were lucky to be paired with Roy Dwyer, artisans’ guild on the island. The structure serves two purposes — to provide work a teacher, writer and storyteller, and in his company, space, especially for the active quilting circle, whose pieces adorn every bed at the inn; we met fishermen, craftspeople and everyday folk. All and as a retail outlet for artists and craftspeople. In addition to the quilts, which fetch proved exceptionally open, friendly and hospitable. handsome prices, we found ourselves browsing among an array of paintings, prints, hand- carved Christmas ornaments, runners, napkins, decoys, bird carvings and little wind- When the weather allows, numerous water catchers. The kaleidoscopic array of knitwear caught my fancy, and I am looking forward activities are available, such as whale-watching to using the mittens and wool socks I purchased as a souvenir of our Fogo visit. We also (in summer), punt tours of the harbor close to came away with several prints of island vignettes done in a naïve Grandma Moses-style the inn and iceberg-viewing (March through by Barry Penton. The inventiveness and variety of the o!erings are extremely impressive and make this a mandatory stop on a Fogo visit. June). Fogo Island is positioned in what is called “Iceberg Alley,” a stretch of the North Atlantic Fogo Island Inn A97 from Greenland to Newfoundland through which LIKE Spectacular architecture; delicious food; imaginative activities; the feeling of being surrounded by drift flotillas of vast icebergs in colors ranging from nature. DISLIKE Very little, aside from the di$culty of getting there. GOOD TO KNOW In the small second-floor cinema, you can choose from a series of short films about the island, which provide a white to aquamarine. wonderful introduction to its people and culture. LABRADOR SUITE, FROM $1,275 FOR TWO (ALL MEALS INCLUDED); NEWFOUNDLAND SUITE, FROM $1,675. FOGO ISLAND, NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR. TEL. (709) We often talk about getting away from it all 658-3444. FOGOISLANDINN.CA " and exploring the far corners of the earth. On Fogo A preceding a rating, denotes an o$cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information Island, you can literally do this. The Flat Earth on all of my favorite hotels in Canada.

August 2014 | hideaway report 9 A NEW ENGLAND CLASSIC RESTORED Weekapaug Inn: An Evocative Rhode Island Retreat

CHUCK ROYCE, AN IMMENSELY SUCCESSFUL FUND MANAGER, HAS A VISION FOR A PLACE he calls home, a stretch of the Rhode Island coast with vast beaches, a rocky shoreline and dignified New England homes. In 2010, he brought back to life the Ocean House resort in the stylish enclave of Watch Hill. That same year, he saw the opportunity to save another Rhode Island icon, the Weekapaug Inn, just six miles to the east. In 1899, businessman Frederick Buffum and much of coastal New England. Undeterred, the his wife, Phebe, opened a small inn in the beach Buffums rebuilt nearby, this time well back community of Weekapaug. Although close by, from the dunes. Over time, however, a single- Weekapaug was, and still is, a less formal place season resort proved infeasible, and the inn closed We spent than Watch Hill, and the Buffums hoped that their in 2007. happy hours inn would appeal to families looking for a relaxed Appreciating the rivalries that exist between “ stretched out in an seaside getaway. Situated right on the ocean and Weekapaug and Watch Hill, Royce brought on Adirondack chair, ideal for boating and swimming, the inn enjoyed board a Weekapaug resident, Lang Wheeler, as listening to the considerable success. a partner. As one person said to me, “He knew wind and watching the egrets, herons Unfortunately, a prime oceanfront location Watch Hill imposing itself on Weekapaug would be and ospreys. guaranteed the inn’s destruction during the problematic.” He also had to contend with the inn’s ferocious hurricane of 1938, which devastated inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places, which mandates adherence to strict guidelines. The building’s original footprint was maintained, and much of the existing structure and many of the furnishings were preserved. After a $20 million restoration, the inn reopened in October 2012. Like Ocean House, the Weekapaug Inn reflects its community. With a slate roof, dark-green shingles and barn-red shutters, it sits on a small peninsula and is reached by its own bridge, with a snug cove on one side and a large saltwater pond, the Quonochontaug, on the other. Although bigger than most of the shingle houses in the area, it shares their character and is surrounded with plantings specifically chosen to

WALKWAY AND CHOWDER PHOTOS incorporate native species. BY ANDREW HARPER Inside, it feels like a lovely beach house, with pastel hues, fine woodwork, views out to the water, and a mixed collection of art — landscapes of the area, a quartet of big Audubon prints, and photographs of the inn and its past guests. A mural of the pond, alive with native birds, sweeps up the main staircase to the second-floor reception area. It is difficult to go very far in the Weekapaug Inn without coming upon an inviting, window- filled lounge, my favorite being the spacious great room near the lobby, with its well-chosen furniture, fireplace and screened porch. Monopoly and Scrabble are laid out on tables, as are the daily papers and glossy magazines; we even found Boardwalk to beach, clam chowder ourselves contributing to an old-fashioned wooden and a Fenway Suite at Weekapaug Inn PHOTO BY CHIP RIEGEL jigsaw puzzle that had defeated previous guests.

10 hideaway report | August 2014 Outdoor entertainments include a host of water EXHIBITION activities such as kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, rowboating and sailing, plus classic lawn games The Art of Ludwig Bemelmans such as shuffleboard and bocce. Amenities include a small exercise room and a handsome seasonal lap ON MY VISIT to Ocean House, the drawing on the lunch menu caught my eye. It seemed to be the work of a favorite pool. With fresh air coming off the nearby sea and artist of mine, Ludwig Bemelmans. Hotelier, restaurateur, a complete lack of intrusive noise, we also spent bon vivant, Bemelmans created the “Madeline” children’s happy hours stretched out in one of the pond- books (which he first sketched in 1938 on the back of a facing Adirondack chairs, listening to the wind and menu in Pete’s Tavern in New York’s Gramercy Park), and his murals of Central Park grace the walls of Bemelmans Bar in watching the egrets, herons and ospreys. The Carlyle hotel. It turns out that Ocean House’s owners, The stunning beach is a short walk away. Having Chuck and Deborah Royce, share my love for Bemelmans. left superfluous items in our private locker at the Several of the works they own, including the paintings Bathhouse, we followed a boardwalk over the dunes. Bemelmans did for his Parisian restaurant, La Colombe, and At its end, we discovered two miles of pristine sand, Madeline panels commissioned by Aristotle Onassis for his daughter’s room on his yacht, are currently in an exhibition marking Madeline’s 75th anniversary, “Madeline in New York: with gentle surf, crystalline water and a view of Block The Art of Ludwig Bemelmans,” at the New-York Historical Society through October 19. Island on the horizon. The following morning, we accompanied the in-house naturalist on an idyllic Ocean House, seen from bird walk along the shore. its glorious Atlantic beach After a day in the fresh air, it was always a delight to return to our One-Bedroom Suite, which was as well thought out and comfortable as the rest of the inn. The 31 accommodations all come with individual designer fabrics. Ours had cream walls, white trim, braided rugs, a mixture of contemporary and traditional furnishings, and a bed made up with Frette linens. The bath was lovely, but I would have appreciated a tub despite the spaciousness of the walk-in shower. The inn’s four two-bedroom Signature Suites are almost like private cottages. Each has master and Ocean House Revisited guest bedrooms, plus a pull-out queen sleeper, a den SINCE I FIRST RECOMMENDED Ocean House, a couple of subscribers have written to with a gas fireplace, a washer/dryer, a full kitchen complain about both the service and the food. Being so close by on this trip, we returned and dining space for eight. Three Fenway Suites are to check on the situation. First, I have to say again how impressive I find the entire setting. located in a separate building, each designed as a Ocean House is a splendid property, which is beautifully situated and impeccably main- private retreat with its own deck and soaking tub. tained. From the valet to the doorman to the concierge to the hostess and sta! at the restaurant, I found everyone to be pleasant and professional. The food in the dining room The restaurant at the inn proved outstanding, was faultless, and a bellwether dish, clam chowder, that in this part of the world invariably with a farm-to-table menu that offers a modern tells you about the state of the kitchen, was delicious. It would seem that the problems interpretation of New England cuisine. We relished encountered by my correspondents have now been resolved. But, as ever, I am grateful to the Matunuck oysters, as well as the native lobster be told about any experiences that have proved unsatisfactory. cake served with pickled and a citrus- HOTELS AT A GLANCE saffron aioli. Main courses included perfect soft- shell crabs crusted with cornmeal, and Georges Weekapaug Inn A95 LIKE The relaxed and casual atmosphere, which makes the experience feel like a stay with friends; the Bank scallops accompanied by forbidden black , fine New England cuisine; the abundant birdlife; the stunning beach. DISLIKE During our stay, an event in the conference center precluded our using the pool. GOOD TO KNOW While there is no spa, guests are English peas and a carrot-cardamom butter. welcome to use the well-regarded OH! Spa at Ocean House, and there are shuttles between the sister prop- It was a real wrench to leave the Weekapaug erties. SUPERIOR ROOM, $200; SUITE, $225. 25 SPRAY ROCK ROAD, WESTERLY, RHODE ISLAND. TEL. (401) 637-7600. " Inn. Gazing over the water, the lawn and the stone WEEKAPAUGINN.COM fireplace where guests gathered nightly to stargaze, Ocean House A94 LIKE The gracious ambience; the friendly sta! members; the delicious food; the splendid art collection I was reminded of the resorts of my childhood. And assembled by the owners. DISLIKE Some may find the walk down to the beach and back too long to be constantly, I found myself thinking how much fun convenient. GOOD TO KNOW Guests are welcome to use the facilities at the Weekapaug Inn. SUPERIOR ROOM, $530; DELUXE JUNIOR SUITE, $700; TOWER SUITE $2,600. 1 BLUFF AVENUE, WATCH HILL, RHODE ISLAND. it would be to come back with my grandchildren, TEL. (401) 584-7000. OCEANHOUSERI.COM to take them sailing, bird-watching or fishing for preceding a rating, denotes an o$cially recommended hotel. Visit AndrewHarper.com for more information A on these and one additional recommendation in Rhode Island. striped bass. H

August 2014 | hideaway report 11 LAST LOOK LAST WORD Optimism Returns ONE OF MY FAVORITE Caribbean resorts, Malliouhana in Anguilla, will reopen on November 1 after a comprehensive refurbish- ment. The rebirth of this classic property seems somehow symbolic. The Caribbean su!ered greatly My close encounter with a wind-sculpted iceberg off the coast of Fogo Island as a result of the 2008 PHOTO BY ANDREW HARPER financial crisis and its after- math, and nowhere more so than Anguilla, where From My Notebook resorts stood empty and major hotel and real estate Cape Town Ferragamo’s Major Caribbean Mobile Luxury projects were abandoned. Penthouse Florence Debut Camping is not usually Today, the Caribbean is a much more cheerful place. I fell in love with Cape Where to stay in the Until now, St. Kitts has been my idea of fun, but then, Aside from Kittitian Hill, Town one spring when Tuscan capital? In a fairly sleepy little island, not all tents are created upscale resorts such as I rented a house in the summer, I prefer to look with a dominant volcano, equal. Shelter Co. is the Capella Marigot Bay residential district of down on the city from the 3,795-foot Mount Liamuiga, the brainchild of San in St. Lucia and the Pink Constantia. I never grew cooler heights of Fiesole. and one or two small Francisco event planner Sands Club on Canouan in tired of the view of Table True, the Four Seasons plantation hotels. This will Kelsey Sheofsky. Mobile the Grenadines will debut Mountain, and I don’t think Firenze is surrounded by change with the opening of luxury camps for families this fall. The new Eden Roc I saw a cloud for a month. 11 acres of gardens. But Kittitian Hill, a $600 million or groups of up to 200 at Cap Cana has brought The Royal Portfolio, in temperate weather, hotel, restaurant, spa, golf people can be set up in a new level of luxury to the which contains some of there is the option of and real estate develop- far-flung scenic loca- Dominican Republic, while my favorite South African the newly refurbished ment. The project’s chief tions — state parks, the Hotel Saint-Barth Isle de hotels, now o!ers a spec- Portrait Firenze (formerly designer is internationally wineries, farms — chiefly France has been refreshed tacular penthouse apart- Lungarno Suites), situated renowned architect Bill in California, Texas and and will reopen in October ment, “The One Above,” in at the western end of Bensley. It is set to debut New York. The spacious, as a Cheval Blanc (LVMH) the V&A Waterfront. The the Ponte Vecchio. The in December with 84 lavish fully furnished tents resort. For a while I have 13,700-square-foot prop- 34-suite property, owned accommodations at Belle come with real beds, fine wondered — to paraphrase erty has four bedrooms, by the Ferragamo family, Mont Farm. The Kitchen linens, down comforters, Churchill — whether we two pools, a gym, a private has been redesigned restaurant in the Great seagrass carpets, wine were at the end of the begin- chef and butler on call 24 by Florentine architect House will serve farm-to- coolers and private baths. ning, or the beginning of the hours a day, and a stupen- Michele Bonan. Four pent- table seasonal cuisine. St. Oh, and a camp butler. end, of the recession. But dous 360-degree view house suites come with Kitts will never be quite the The term is “glamping.” suddenly, it feels as though from wraparound decks. sublime views. same, it seems. Sounds like fun. it really is over. I am pleased to say that this mood of TRAVEL OFFICE NEWS optimism is confirmed by our Travel O$ce, which to Choosing the Right Travel Insurance date in 2014 has seen a 17 DECIDING ON THE RIGHT TRAVEL INSURANCE POLICY can be tricky. You need to be covered, but not overinsured. The percent increase in year-on- Travel O$ce has worked with Travelex for more than a decade now, and our consultants have familiarized themselves year bookings — for which with the company’s policies — along with those of partner MedjetAssist — and can help you choose the right coverage for I sincerely thank you! every vacation. Insurance is obviously necessary for trips with cancellation deadlines far in advance of the travel dates, but even for simple domestic journeys, it is advisable. Travelex also o!ers very inexpensive coverage that doesn’t reim- burse cancellation fees but does protect you in the event of trip interruption, baggage loss or medical emergency. And in the unfortunate event that you do have to use your insurance, the Travel O$ce will help expedite your claim. Online Exclusives Contact the Travel O!ce at (800) 375-4685 or [email protected]. Find additional stories, my trip videos and more photography Free of hotel advertising since its inception in June 1979, Andrew Harper’s Hideaway Report® (ISSN 0884-7622) is a private publication for sophisticated throughout the month on our travelers. The selection of hotels and restaurants for inclusion is made on a completely independent basis, with Andrew Harper, LLC paying full rate for website. Look for these symbols in all meals, lodging and related travel expenses. The Hideaway Report is published monthly by Andrew Harper at 1601 Rio Grande St., Suite 410, Austin, TX print and visit The Hideaway Report 78701. Periodicals Postage is paid at Austin, TX, and additional mailing o$ces. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: Andrew Harper, P.O. Box 684368, at AndrewHarper.com. Austin, TX 78768. Tel. (866) 831-4314 or (512) 904-7342. Fax (512) 904-7350. Copyright 2014 Andrew Harper, LLC. CST #2110806-40; IST #1096; # = slideshow " = video WST #603248672. All rights reserved. Quotation, reproduction or transmission by any means is prohibited without written permission from the publisher. = additional stories Editor-in-Chief Andrew Harper Art Director Kristina Mitchell Photo Editor Kelly Zhu Illustrator Melissa Colson !