Wire-tailed Manakin; an Amazonian jewel! (Eustace Barnes)

AMAZONIAN PERU

1 – 15 / 22 NOVEMBER 2014

LEADER: EUSTACE BARNES

GROUP MEMBERS: MARK HARPER, BO JERKEMAN, GERAINT MORGAN, MARILYN RAMENOFSKY and JOHN WINGFIELD.

Total clean up? Well nearly, we saw everything one could reasonably expect to see on this tour. A staggering 652 species, with 56 Antbirds alone! We had a great trip, losing no time to rain and enjoying the hospitality of many Peruvian restaurants and lodges. We did not see Red-billed Ground Cuckoo or Iquitos Gnatcatcher but neither has anyone else for several years. However, we did see the rarely observed Nocturnal Curassow and the endangered Wattled Curassow, Blue-cheeked and Purplish Jacamars, Rufous- necked and Collared Puffbirds, Black-faced Hawk, Royal Cinclodes, Fulvous Antshrike, Black Bushbird, Amazonas and Allpahuayo Antbirds, Chestnut-belted Gnateater, Black-necked Red Cotinga, Masked Fruiteater, Orange-crested Manakin, all the river island endemics, nearly all the white-sand specialities and all the polylepis endemics which, I suppose, is no mean feat.

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The Hoatzin; a pre=Pleistocene relict? A very widespread and common species in the tropics (Eustace Barnes).

The Amazon is the most complex and endlessly fascinating ecosystem on the planet while the Andes is the most biologically diverse range of mountains. I could live there the rest of my life and still barely scratch the surface of that complexity in either. I guess it would get no votes back home but I would have a great time. Anyway, we were in my second home and about to begin our Amazonian odyssey in search of its legendary, mythical and indeed enigmatic denizens on what was to be a most enjoyable tour.

Royal Cinclodes; one of the most endangered and range restricted species in South America (Eustace Barnes).

2 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Day one and we were on our way to Explorama skimming across the surface of the world’s greatest river; the Amazon. During the course of our stay, and somewhat unusually, there were huge numbers of Large- billed and Yellow-billed Terns along with thousands of Neotropic Cormorants seen on our various river trips. On one occasion we must have seen at least three thousand Cormorants all together flying low over the waters heading down river; quite a sight. Where were they headed? Once at our first base we were on to the river islands and floodplain forests and the start of our all out assault on the bird list. A brief river island stop gave us Orange-fronted Plushcrown, Castelnau’s Antshrike, Hooded Tanagers and Pearly-breasted Conebill which was a good start.

In the afternoon we took a river trip seeing a good selection of river island specialists and floodplain species starting with Scarlet-crowned Barbet, White-chinned and White-eared Jacamars, Bay Hornero, Zimmer’s and Straight-billed Woodcreepers, a couple of Cream-coloured Woodpeckers and a Long-billed Woodcreeper. I would say that from that moment on there was no let up and we just kept on finding new birds until the last hour or so of the tour. As the evening drew in the air filled with Short-tailed Parrots, Orange-winged and Festive Amazons and hundreds of Dusky-headed and Canary-winged Parakeets all heading off to roost. A narrow inlet produced our first Pale-vented Pigeons, Striated Herons, Red and white Spinetails, Barred Antshrikes and Greyish Saltators. As it was getting dark we decided to call a halt and headed back to base for a well earned beer and a rest while I planned the following days activities, homing in on the next batch of targets.

White-eared Jacamar; a common floodplain species (Eustace Barnes).

Our first early morning session was spent on the floodplain in search of the many more widespread species found across Amazonia and a more recently discovered speciality; the Orange-eyed Flatbill. After more of an

3 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com effort than usual we found an Orange-eyed Flatbill and enjoyed good views of this cryptic species. As we moved on we found our first Many-banded and Chestnut-eared Aracaris, White-throated Toucans, Masked Tityra, White-eyed Parakeet, Blue-winged Parrotlets, Short-tailed and Blue-headed Parrots, our only White- bearded Hermit, Blue-crowned Trogon, Russet-backed Oropendolas and Black-collared, Slate-coloured and Crane Hawks. The best find was of four Amazonian Umbrellabirds displaying in the tall riverine forests which was a tour highlight for John; a well worth while exercise.

Long-billed Woodcreeper (Eustace Barnes)

After breakfast we packed and headed on to ExplorNapo giving us access to superb terra firma forests, the longest canopy walkway in the Amazon and innumerable rivers islands. Certainly enough to keep us busy for the next week or so. The in-house entertainment, invariably provided by travelling youth and other naval gazers was, on this occasion, provided by an Australian women’s group involved in distributing bras to the local community! Utterly surreal. Why would local women wear bras? It is too hot for a start. Our purpose here on this tour is to work the excellent terra firma forests, to which a good deal of time was devoted and in which endeavour we did enjoy a good hit rate with the targets. It can be very tough going in these hilly forests but we managed to keep on picking up new birds. We had just met up with a good friend of mine in Lima who had suffered a particularly tough time and so we were prepared for the worst. However, our first search was for the shy and highly elusive Black-necked Red Cotingas which eventually performed well (for them) and we enjoyed some great, if short, views of this cracking cotingid. Why would such a gaudy species be so shy? I would guess that intense pressure on them from earlier hunter gatherer societies for their feathers might well account for it. The impact on the environment here from such groups has been dramatic. There are few mammals and birds larger than a domestic pigeon in these forests. One cannot hear Howler Monkeys or any other larger primates that may be found in areas less intensely occupied by indigenous peoples who would have used brightly coloured feathers to make decorative clothing.

A focused search across the trail system produced spectacular views of the huge Fulvous Antshrike. Another species impossible to photograph as it flicks around in dense thickets. Giving no more than fleeting glimpses

4 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com this species is often only poorly seen or not seen at all! Keeping our focus we tracked down the Black Bushbird in another gloomy streamside thicket. This species is less evasive than the latter and we all obtained more extended views of this sometimes tricky customer. The same trails produced Wire-tailed Manakins at a lek and further searches gave us White-crowned, Blue-crowned, Golden-headed and Western Striped Manakins. Manakins are always a popular group of birds and we enjoyed good views of quite a number of species. Another area of ancient secondary growth gave us Black-headed Antbird of the rare jensoni form as well as Rusty-breasted Nunlet, Royal Flycatcher, several Brownish Twistwings and a small army ant swarm with a few White-plumed and Bicoloured Antbirds. Another trail gave us a pair of Purplish Jacamars and a very responsive Rusty-belted Tapaculo where earlier we had seen a Chestnut-belted Gnateater. These trails had, in years past, been very good for Striated Antthrush and Ochre-striped Antpitta but neither has been recorded for several years it seems. Why might that be? Are they semi-nomadic?

Chestnut-belted Gnateater; an understorey cracker (PL).

It was time to move on and leave the bra-aid ladies behind in search of yet more birdlife. We had timed our stay at the ACTS lodge to perfection and we were in luck with the weather; the moon was almost full and it had been dry and cloudless for several nights. Our hunt for Nocturnal Curassow was looking promising as we set off in the silver light. A short way along the trail Marilyn found a beautiful Fer de Lance by the track that Lucio had almost trodden on. A little further on we then taped in a vey cooperative Northern Tawny- bellied Screech-Owl. No curassows but a few hundred meters on we could hear the song of several Nocturnal Curassows in the far distance. We continued walking until we were more or less beneath a huge tree from which the bird seemed to be calling. After some crashing about we got into a position where we could see the canopy and very quickly we were looking at the bird, bathed in 500 lumens! The bird did look a little lost in the light and our local lads were somewhat alarmed at the beam as well. Anyway, we enjoyed great looks at this rarely seen cracid for some time before we headed back for a celebratory beer and a rest. Another of our big targets secured in style!

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Red and green Macaws (Eustace Barnes)

The canopy walkway is a big attraction at this lodge and it is not equalled anywhere really. The walkway itself and the numerous platforms give spectacular views out over the rainforest canopy and unbeatable opportunities to see canopy species. We visited the walkways and platform six on several occasions and enjoyed great success in seeing many of the canopy specialities. We saw Red-throated Caracara, Bat Falcon, Red and green Macaws, Orange-cheeked and Blue-headed Parrots, Mealy Amazons, Squirrel and Black-bellied Cuckoos, Black-eared Fairy, Gilded Barbets, White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Ivory-billed Aracari, Lineated Woodcreeper, Dugand’s Antwren, Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet, Grey Elaenia, Yellow-browed Tody-Flycatcher, Grey-crowned Flatbill, Eastern Wood Pewee, Piratic Flycatcher, Dusky- chested Flycatcher, Bright-rumped Attila, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Spangled Cotinga, White-browed Purpletuft, Black-capped Becard, Dusky-capped Greenlet, White-vented Euphonia, Blackpoll Warbler, Crested and Olive Oropendolas, Flame-crested and Fulvous-crested Tanagers, Yellow-bellied, Turquoise, Paradise, Green and gold, Opal-crowned and Swallow Tanagers, Blue Dacnis, Short-billed, Purple and Green Honeycreepers, Slate-coloured Grosbeak and others too numerous to mention, As the sun rose and the sweat bees moved in we descended to the forest floor to explore the trail system.

Western Striped Manakin (Eustace Barnes).

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Plain-breasted Piculet (Eustace Barnes).

The trails beneath the walkway gave us a magnificent pair of Golden-collared Toucanets. We heard a calling Black-faced Hawk which we then tracked down and enjoyed superb views of a perched bird in the sub- canopy. As we walked on we found a Reddish Hermit lek and several pairs of Black-headed Antbirds at a new site. Heading back to the lodge on one occasion a calling Thrush-like Antpitta drew us into a gulley. I decided to quickly search for the bird before playing any tape and found the bird calling from within a heliconia thicket! Some of us had also managed to see a White-throated Tinamou walking across the trail making for a good haul of tricky species that morning.

Amazonian White-tailed or Green-backed Trogon (Eustace Barnes).

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Collared Plover (Eustace Barnes)

One of the major avifaunas we devote time to on this tour and which is very well represented in this region is that found on the river islands. We visited a young river island, which is more or less a sand bank with thick rushes and grasses growing on it. These islands are home to Lesser Hornero, White-bellied and Parker’s Spinetails and River Tyrannulet which we found with some ease. A nearby island of fifteen years or so gave us dozens of Olive-spotted hummingbirds, Black and white Antbird, Castelnau’s Antshrike, Ash-breasted Antbird, Parker’s, Dark-breasted and Plain-crowned Spinetails, the uncommon Brownish Elaenia, Orange- headed Tanager and Pearly-breasted Conebill. In addition we found Grey-breasted Crake, Little Cuckoo, Blue-chinned Sapphire, Spot-breasted Woodpecker and Plain-breasted Piculet. Working banks of tessaria on a few occasions we picked up Lesser Wagtail Tyrant and Riverside Tyrant and while walking tall forest on older islands we easily found Bay Hornero, Zimmer’s Woodcreeper and Leaden Antwren so completing our search for river island avifauna.

Ladder-tailed Nightjar (Eustace Barnes).

The floodplain forests along the Napo also harbour a good number of specialities and so we visited a couple of sites not far from our lodgings. It did take a couple of visits but we did find the localised Band-tailed Oropendola, Point-tailed Palmcreeper, Long-billed and Striped Woodcreepers, Black-chinned, Dot-backed and Silvery Antbirds. The rivers were great for Green and rufous kingfisher, Lettered Aracari, Slate-coloured and Black-collared Hawks, Crested and Olive oropendolas and Yellow-rumped Caciques. A lot of floodplain forest has been cleared and we did spend some time birding secondary growth seeing Cream-coloured and Chestnut Woodpeckers, Plum-throated Cotinga, Black and white Tody Flycatcher and numerous mixed flocks of tanagers and honeycreepers.

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Point-tailed Palmcreeper; one of the smartest furnarids (Eustace Barnes).

It was time to move on to our next lodgings at Cumaceba. We arrived in the mid-afternoon in time to do some birding along the entrance track. This is always good for a number of species although only a single target species; the Black-tailed Antbird. As the canned recordings rattled out into the silent forest the birds began to call and sing and before long the forest was alive with bird song. Working through the birds we found our first Bluish-fronted Jacamars and Great Antshrikes along with Buff-breasted Wrens and several pairs of White-cheeked Jacamars. However, we did find our somewhat localised Black-tailed Antbird which is certainly common here. Cumaceba used to be considered the site to see this species but now it has been found at a number of lodges along the south bank and we did see several pairs at Muyuna. However, Cumaceba is better known as a lodge to visit if you need to get in-touch with your inner self with the help of a hefty dose of Ayahuasca; an hallucinogenic drug used by the indigenous people for sacred ceremonies. It is now used as a business opportunity by the local communities to con dissolute and alienated foreign youth into parting with some cash. They tell themselves they are immersing themselves in native culture and sometimes even that they have been in touch with un-contacted tribes in the jungle, probably on face book! The whole process in all probability further divorces them from any sense of reality usually confirmed by and concluding with the observation that ‘…it was like totally awesome like…’ Of far more interest, the lodge is also home to a family of Pygmy Marmosets which we enjoyed watching along with both Pink and Blue River Dolphins and a number of other riparian species. These included Varzea Blackish Antbird, Orange-backed Troupial, Greyish Saltator and Chestnut-bellied Seedfinch. A moment of easy birding at the lodge lake produced dozens of Hoatzin, Wattled Jacanas, Crested Oropendolas and Black-collared Hawks before we retreated to the bar to hear all about the search for one’s inner-self. A mission probably fired by the magical realism of Carlos Castaneda, which was very popular in the 1960’s and 70’s and which came out of that author’s supposed experiences in Mexico with peyote.

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Black-tailed Antbird (Eustace Barnes).

In the very recent past the development of tourism on the vast floodplains at the junction of the Amazon and Maranon rivers gave birders the opportunity to search for south bank species. However, working this area almost immediately produced the now endangered Wattled Curassow; a species known to the locals for decades and which had been the subject of a self-imposed hunting ban by the local communities for many years; an extraordinarily enlightened action for such an area. Anyway, Muyuna is now, as a result, on the radar of all world birders and we arrived in good time for lunch and the opportunity to explore the floodplain forest nearby. Walking out into the floodplain we found a good number of birds including Saturnine and Bluish-slate Antshrikes, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper and Plain Xenops in the small mixed flocks. We walked back and forth in search of Blue-cheeked Jacamar and rare Rufous-necked Puffbird, both of which we found. In addition to these enigmatic specialities we also found a Collared Puffbird and a couple of Pygmy Marmosets. As the weather was threatening to drench us we headed back to base for a short break.

American Pygmy Kingfisher (Eustace Barnes)

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Blue-cheeked Jacamar (Eustace Barnes).

After a superb dinner we took a river trip which I suppose, for the ‘numpties’, would have been to see Caiman, snakes and a variety of amphibians. Once we had established that Caiman were not on our list of priorities we headed off to find both Common and Great Potoos, numerous Boat-billed Herons, two Kinkajous and a very pretty little American Pygmy Kingfisher roosting on a shrub hanging over the water. It was certainly a well worthwhile little excursion and one enjoyed by all. We headed back to the lodge for a drink and the inevitable barrage of excitable babble about travelling and being in the ‘jungle’ but no talk of drug induced self-realisation, which was a blessing.

A 4am start undoubtedly did not endear us to the revellers but we were off on the second of our big missions. We worked our way along a number of narrow trails listening out for calling and displaying curassows. A bird flushed out of a tree above us and we all had a quick view of a bird in a huge tree in front of us. Not good enough of course! We continued our search, walking another trail and searching the maze of channels and swamps. We heard the wing clatter of a displaying bird and then the same bird delivering its piercing whistle. It did take a carefully mounted off trail approach but we eventually found the calling male in a tall open canopied tree. Through the scope we all enjoyed spectacular views of this now endangered cracid and had great views of the bird calling and delivering its wing clatter. This was a tremendous success, exceeding all of our expectations and a one of the highlights of the year for us all, including me. This is a species that really does deserve the epithet mythical.

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Blue and yellow Macaws (Eustace Barnes).

Various river trips and trails had given us a few extras here as well including Amazonian Streaked Antwren, Amazonian Antshrike, Band-tailed Antbird and Dull-capped and Cinnamon Attilas. There were good numbers of Festive Amazons, Short-tailed Parrots, Blue and yellow Macaws, Long-billed and Striped Woodcreepers and a few Bare-necked Fruitcrows.

Sunbittern walking along the roof of our lodgings (Eustace Barnes)

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Collared Puffbird (Eustace Barnes)

We had seen much of the birdlife and all of our targets at Muyuna and so we decided to visit another river island. Pushing up on the river bank we found Red and white, Dark-breasted and Parker’s Spinetails and River Tyrannulet. A little further on we found more Lesser Wagtail Tyrants, Riverside Tyrant, White-bellied Spinetail and a pair of Black and white Antbirds. We then headed to the taller woodlands to find Leaden Antwren, Zimmer’s Woodcreeper and some calling Bay Horneros and Ash-breasted Antbirds but no Brownish Elaenia. Otherwise, more or less a clean sweep on the river islands in one morning session. That can be my next objective for this tour!

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The open country Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture (Eustace Barnes).

After another splendid lunch we headed back to Iquitos for a few nights while we worked the white sand forests of the Allpahuayo-Mishana reserve on the edge of town. The White sand forests are notably quiet at dawn and there is often no activity until about 8am! As such we rolled up at 8am to be greeted with absolute silence until 8.45 at which point Zimmer’s Antbird, Ancient Antwren and Allpahuayo Antbirds began to sing. Having seen them and a few Red-legged Honeycreepers we began our search for Orange-crested Manakin which went well as the bird was sat on his usual perch! The next species was slightly less accommodating and it did take some time to find Saffron-crested Tyrant Manakin. Citron-bellied Attilas sang but could not be located in its tall trees and likewise the Brown-banded Puffbirds which called but did not come in. Birding is often rather tough in these forests and our next target proved the point; Pearly Antshrike. This bird called back after persistent use of canned recordings and did come in but not for easy viewing. It circled us flicking leaves with its wings as it went to distract us; a tactic which works well for many antbirds. A small flock we pinned down held Stipple-throated, White-flanked and Grey Antwren, Plain Xenops and the rare Sport- throated Woodcreeper. The forest understorey held many Straight-billed Hermits which came to watch us as we searched for antbirds, with some degree of pity I thought. The notoriously difficult Iquitos Gnatcatcher eluded us completely and has not in fact been reliably seen for three years. We used to see it around the visitor centre. We did find Paradise Jacamar, Yellow-billed Nunbird and Gould’s Jewelfront. The Gnatcatcher is part of that group of Gnatcatchers that includes Guianan, Para, Rio Negro Gnatcatchers and the recently described Inambari Gnatcatcher, none of which are easy to find.

14 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Anyway, it began to rain at 10.30 and got progressively heavier until 2pm! We then retreated to Iquitos and prepared for an evening boat trip along the Rio Nanay. The Rio Nanay is a black water river that meets the Amazon at Iquitos. As the light was poor we headed quickly to a narrow side channel to search for Black- crested Antshrike which we found almost immediately. This spectacular bird is restricted to riparian thickets along black water channels. As dusk approached we were surrounded by Band-tailed Nighthawks hawking for insects. The form found here is quite distinct and may well prove to be a good species in its own right. The light was going and so we began to retrace our steps seeing Black-crowned Night Heron, Black-bellied Whistling Ducks and dozens of Sand-coloured Nighthawks en route. A nice selection of trip birds at the last minute and so we were back in Iquitos packing for our flight back to Lima the following morning.

Yellow-hooded Blackbirds (Eustace Barnes)

Down to Lima for a days birding on the coast and the finale of the main tour. Pantanos de Villa was a first stop, where we met up with the ’Captain’ to pick up our lunches. We picked up Long-tailed Mockingbird, the bright form of Vermillion Flycatcher, Eared and West Peruvian Doves and large number of waterbirds. These included Pied-billed and Great Grebe, Cinnamon Teal, Puna Ibis, Striated Heron, Western Cattle Egrets, Little Blue Heron, Western Osprey, Common Gallinule and Andean Coot, There were also thousands of gulls including Bonaparte’s and Laughing Gulls along with Grey-hooded, Kelp and Belcher’s Gulls and a few Grey Gulls. On the sea we found dozens of Inca Terns, a few Royal Terns and a Cabot’s Tern.

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Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes (Eustace Barnes)

Departing from the marshes we headed south to the pretty little fishing village of Pucusana for a boat trip, what else? First we visited a cove for Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes which was about 1.5m from where it usually is feeding ion the surf. We did see more but it is good to see them at point blank range. The boat trip was a hit and we saw and photographed hundreds of Peruvian Pelicans, Peruvian Boobies, Red-legged and Guanay Cormorants, Inca Terns, Turnstone, Surfbird, Blackish Oystercatcher and the inevitable Humboldt Penguin with young. We did give a fair amount of time as the light was good and sea calm. However, eventually we had to pull ourselves away and head back to Lima in good time for checking out the ‘Sooty’ Vermillion Flycatchers in the square outside the hotel. This form is endemic to Lima and occurs alongside the brighter vermillion form. We also saw a few Scrub Blackbirds, American Kestrel and a couple of Blue- grey Tanagers before it was time to head off to the airport for those not taking the extension.

Inca Terns in Pucusana harbour (Eustace Barnes).

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Red-legged Cormorant resting on a fishing boat (Eustace Barnes).

The extension started in fine style at Huacarpay Lakes, a well known and oft visited birding site. We circumnavigated the lakes and marshes seeing Wren-like Rushbird, Many-coloured rush-Tyrant and Yellow-

17 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com winged Blackbird in the rush beds. We also saw a good number of Plumbeous rails, Puna Ibis, Black- crowned Night Heron, White-tufted Grebes, Black-necked Stilt, Andean Lapwing, Andean Gull, Puna, Yellow-billed and Cinnamon Teal, Yellow-billed Pintail and Andean Ducks. There were also Cinereous Conebills, Band-tailed Seedeaters, Ash-breasted and Band-tailed Sierra-finches, Hooded Siskin, golden- billed Saltator, Blue and yellow Tanager, Yellow-billed Tit-Tyrant, a Black-billed Shrike Tyrant and hundreds of Rufous-collared Sparrows. We spent a good deal of time looking for the endemic Rusty-fronted Canastero, which we saw after a little effort. The lakes are always a good start to birding in the Andes with a good selection of upland species. We then headed down the Sacred valley stopping to see Torrent Duck, Spot-winged Pigeon, Bare-faced Ground Dove, White-collared and Andean Swifts, several Giant Hummingbirds, Sparkling Violetear, Black-tailed Trainbearer, Andean Flicker, Black-throated Flowerpiercer and Greenish Yellow-finch.

Andean Flicker sunning itself at Huacarpay lakes (Eustace Barnes).

In the grounds of our hotel we saw a spectacular Bearded Mountaineer; one of the most spectacular hummingbirds. We were able to devote a good deal of time to this species and ended up watching and photographing a male displaying his finery The gardens are also good for White-crested Elaenia and Rusty Flowerpiercer, both of which we saw very well. Ollantaytambo is a good base from which to explore the various sites in the Cordillera Vilcabamba and also from which to visit Machu Picchu.

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Bearded Mountaineer. We were given a spectacular show from this male. (Eustace Barnes).

Our first site was on the humid east flank searching through the tall cloud forest choked with Chusquea bamboo and bromeliad-laden emergents. It was cloudy with light drizzle but quite useable. We kicked off with Mountain Caracara, Band-tailed Pigeon, the alticola form of Mitred Parakeet, Tyrian and Scaled Metaltails, Plush-capped Finch, Marcapata Spinetail, Pearled Treerunner, Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant, White- throated and White-banded Tyrannulets, the endemic Inca Wren, Mountain Wren, White-browed and Blue- backed Conebills and the range restricted Parodi’s Hemispingus. There were also Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrants and a single Cuzco Brush-finch which sat and watched us a while and then dropped out of sight. It then started to rain hard forcing us to cross the pass and bird the intermontane habitats above Ollantaytambo.

Parodi’s Hemispingus (left) and Unstreaked Tit-Tyrant (right) at Carrizales (Eustace Barnes).

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Junin Canastero (Eustace Barnes).

A stop in the high puna gave us Junin and Streak-throated Canasteros, Cream-winged Cinclodes, Peruvian Sierra-finches and several White-winged Diuca finches. The rain then caught up with us and we dropped into what should have been the drier lower valley to be subjected to high wind and rain. We were forced to give up shortly after lunch and so we returned to Ollantaytambo to watch the Bearded Mountaineer and Giant Hummingbirds feeding on the red hot pokers in the garden.

Bearded Mountaineer (Eustace Barnes)

20 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com The following morning we took the train to Aguas Calientes located a thousand feet beneath the famous ruins of Machu Picchu. We devoted the following couple of days, not only to the ruins but also to birding the rich trackside sub-tropical forests below town. We were to be treated to an entirely new avifauna and an unending torrent of new birds. We easily found Torrent Ducks, Torrent Tyrannulet, Black Phoebe, Golden- crowned Flycatcher, White-tipped Dove, Green and white Hummingbird and numerous Common Tody Flycatchers.

Green and white Hummingbird; almost endemic to the Sacred valley (Eustace barnes0.

As we worked the flocks along the tracks and in forest below the ruins we found Mitred Parakeet, Andean Guans, Green and Sparkling Violetears, Chestnut-breasted Coronet, Gould’s Incas, Booted Racket-tail, Long-tailed Sylph, several Versicoloured Barbets, Ocellated Piculet, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Streaked Xenops, and Variable Antshrike. The forests here are particularly good for Tyrannulets and we found White- tailed, Mottle-cheeked, Sclater’s and Ashy-headed Tyrannulets and Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant, Barred Becard, Brown-capped Vireo, Grey-breasted Wood Wren, Pale-eyed Thrushes, White-capped Dipper, Olivaceous Siskin, Thick-billed Euphonia, Russet-crowned Warbler, Andean Solitaire, Tropical Parula, Spectacled and Slate-throated Whitestarts, Highland Hepatic Tanager, White-lined Tanager, Slaty, Silver- backed, Saffron-crowned and Gold-naped Tanagers and the common Dusky-green Oropendola. It is always of interest to see what turns up in the Urubamba gorge and we were surprised to find a Yellow-billed Cuckoo; a very infrequently seen migrant here. We did expect to find Andean Motmot somewhat more easily but did so at the last minute. They usually adorn the boulders along the river. We were luckier with another target species and we were elated to find a superb male Masked Fruiteater after quite a search. It then performed well enough to get some good photographs.

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Machu Picchu; the secret city of the Inca. (Eustace Barnes).

The ruins on our final morning were just superb. Machu Picchu never fails to impress and on this occasion the light was fantastic. We also saw a couple of Inca Wrens, Blue and black Tanagers, White-tipped Swifts and a pair of White-winged Black Tyrants. It began to rain and so we descended to Aguas Calientes for lunch and our train back to Ollantaytambo.

Torrent Tyrannulet (left) and Torrent Duck (right) Eustace Barnes

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Versicoloured Barbet below the ruins (Eustace Barnes)

Mountain Viscacha on the ruins (Eustace Barnes).

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Pico Veronica (Eustace Barnes).

Departing at 4.30am we climbed up to Abra Malaga at 4400m for an early breakfast bathed in bright sunshine. We then walked up to a nearby ridge to explore the Polylepis woodlands below, in sight of the magnificent Pico Veronica. We saw numerous Mountain Caracaras and Andean Gulls as well as several pairs of Streak-throated Canasteros.

Once at the Polylepis woodlands we found Line-fronted Canastero and a pair of White-browed Tit-Spinetails, both of which are polylepis obligates. Working our way around the reserve we soon found Tawny Tit- Spinetail, D’Orbigny’s Chat Tyrant, Puna Tapaculo and Stripe-headed Antpitta. While doing so we could hear Royal Cinclodes calling below us and it did not take too long for us to find the bird and enjoy superb views of one of the rarest birds in South America. As we worked our way down the slope we found a Blue-mantled Thornbill, Giant Conebill and eventually a couple of Ash-breasted Tit-Tyrants. We then found a small group of the rarely seen Thick-billed Siskin and again had great views. A little later and lot lower down we found a few immaculate Black Siskins, so completing our Siskin list. Indeed it was full house on the Polylepis endemics and obligates and time to descend before the weather closed in, as it always does. Another great mornings birding! After the tiring climb we headed back to base for a rest and an enjoyable exploration of the fortress at Ollantaytambo.

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Royal Cinclodes; certainly a mythical and enigmatic denizen of the High Andes (Eustace Barnes).

Thick-billed Siskin (Eustace Barnes)

25 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Our last day in the High Andes started above Ollantaytambo at Penas ruinas. we worked through the ruins finding a few Creamy-crested Spinetails, numerous Great Sapphirewings chasing around the ruins, Shining Sunbeams and the endemic White-tufted Sunbeam feeding on the flowering shrubs. As we worked our way round the ruins we located a singing Chestnut-breasted Mountain-Finch without the usual effort. At that point we had seen all we could expect to in the time and so we wound things up and worked our way down the valley. Searching the skyline we eventually found an adult Andean Condor wheeling around the peaks high above us. After some good looks it really was time to go and so we headed to Cusco for a very late lunch and a rest.

Giant Conebill (left) and chestnut-breasted Mountain-finch (right) (Eustace Barnes.)

White-tufted Sunbeam (left) and Red-crested Cotinga (right) (Eustace Barnes.)

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Polylepis woodlands at 4400m; one of the more magical habitats in which to look for birds (Eustace Barnes)

Flying down to Lima the following morning we were set to explore the fascinating fog bound Lomas de Lachay north of Lima; a place I love to visit. The open desert produced Coastal Miners, Least Seedsnipe, a family of Peruvian Thick-knees, several pairs of Burrowing Owls and a Short-eared Owl. The flowering desert held hundreds of Raimondi’s Yellow-Finch, Collared Warbling-Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Peruvian Meadowlark and dozens of Oasis Hummingbirds and Purple-collared Woodstars feeding on the nicotiniana. As we moved into the reserve we found Black-chested Buzzard-Eagles, Variable Hawk, American Kestrel, a couple of Peregrine Falcons and a distant Aplomado Falcon. The Mountain Parakeets were all around the visitor centre; an uncommon and somewhat irregular species at the reserve. We also found a few Croaking Ground Doves and Vermillion Flycatchers before we decided bail out and to head to a narrow cactus clad canyon in the lower sections of the park.

Costal Miner at Lomas de Lachay (Eustace Barnes)

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Short-eared Owl (Eustace Barnes)

The quite stunning desolate valleys below the ‘fog’ are home to a different avifauna. Desolate they may be but they are full of cacti and a few small shrubs in a few gulleys contrasting with the slopes around. We searched for and found several Cactus Canasteros and a few Greyish Miners. It was time to head back to Lima for our homewards flights after a highly successful tour.

Raimondi’s Yellow Finch with young (Eustace Barnes).

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Peruvian Booby (Eustace Barnes0

TOP TEN – AMAZONIAN PERU TOP FIVE – CUZCO AND MACHU PICCHU 1 Wattled Curassow 1 Masked Fruiteater 2 Nocturnal Curassow 2 Royal Cinclodes 3 Black-faced Hawk 3 Bearded Mountaineer 4 Black-necked Red-Cotinga 4 Giant Conebill 5 Wire-tailed Manakin 5 Andean Condor 6 Black Bushbird 7 Amazonian Umbrellabird 8 Fulvous Antshrike 9 Gould’s Jewelfront 10 Hoatzin

Inca Tern (Eustace Barnes)

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A stunning Masked Fruiteater at Machu Picchu. (Eustace Barnes)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species names and taxonomy used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org.

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

BIRDS.

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Great Tinamou Tinamus major A couple seen erupting from the forest during our exploration at ExplorNapo. White-throated Tinamou Tinamus guttatus A single bird seen near the canopy walkway by a couple of us. Hooded Tinamou Nothoprocta nigrocapillus (H) Heard at Machu Picchu. Cinereous Tinamou Crypturellus cinereus (H) Heard at Shimiguycocha. Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui (H) Heard in secondary growth along the Rio Napo. Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus (H) Commonly heard in riverine forest. Bartlett’s Tinamou Crypturellus bartletti (H) Heard at Shimiguycocha.. Speckled Chachalaca Ortalis guttata Heard and seen at a few sites but not common at all. Andean Guan Penelope montagnii A couple seen at Machu Picchu. Spix’s Guan Penelope jacuacu A couple seen at ExplorNapo and another at Allpahuayo-Mishana. Nocturnal Curassow Nothocrax urumutum One seen very well singing from a tree on our nocturnal excursion. Wattled Curassow Crax globulosa A male watched at length displaying in a tall tree and two others seen at Muyuna. Marbled Wood-Quail Odontophorus gujanensis (H) Heard beneath the canopy walkway. Stripe-headed Wood Quail Odontophorus balliviani (H) Heard at Machu Picchu.

Horned Screamer (Eustace Barnes) Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta Common at Muyuna. Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis A small flock seen along the Rio Nanay. Torrent Duck Merganetta armata Common along the Rio Urubamba. Andean Goose Chloephaga melanoptera Several seen on our visits to Abra Malaga. Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata Common at Muyuna. Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera Common on the coast. Yellow-billed Teal Anas flavirostris Seen at Laguna Huacarpay. Yellow-billed Pintail Anas spinicauda A good number recorded at Laguna Huacarpay. Puna Teal Anas puna Seen at Laguna Huacarpay. Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea Several noted at Laguna Huacarpay.

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Humboldt’s Penguin (Eustace Barnes)

Humboldt Penguin Spheniscus humboldti Several pairs with young at Pucusana. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps A few seen on the coast. White-tufted Grebe Rollandia rollandi Several pairs noted at Laguna Huacarpay. Great Grebe Podiceps major Not uncommon at Pantanos de Villa. Wood Stork mycteria americana A large flock seen along the Amazon. Andean Ibis Theristicus branickii (H) Heard on two occasions at Abra Malaga. Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis (H) Heard on numerous occasions at ExplorNapo and Muyuna,. Puna Ibis Plegadis ridgwayi Commonly seen in the Andes and on the coast. Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum Very few noted of this usually common species. Fasciated Tiger Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum One seen along the Rio Urubamba. Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius Common at Muyuna on our various nocturnal excursions. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Seen at Iquitos and Laguna Huacarpay. Striated Heron Butorides striatus Common. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Increasing in the lowlands now. Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Fairly common. Great Egret Ardea alba Common. Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus A few seen at Muyuna. Snowy Egret Egretta thula A few noted throughout. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Common on the coast. Peruvian Pelican Pelecanus thagus Common on the coast. Peruvian Booby Sula variegata Common at Pucusana. Red-legged Cormorant Phalacrocorax gaimardi Numerous at Pucusana. Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Common throughout. Guanay Cormorant Phalacrocorax bougainvillii Very common at Pucusana. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Not uncommon at Muyuna. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Common along the Napo and Amazon rivers. Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Common.

32 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Andean Condor Vultur gryphus One seen above Ollantaytambo. Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus A good number seen in the Amazon. Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis (H) Heard at Explornapo over the canopy. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus A few seen at Muyuna. Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii Two seen along the Amazon. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis A few seen in and around Iquitos. Slender-billed Kite Helicolestes hamatus One heard and glimpsed at Shimiguycocha. Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus One seen along the Rio Napo. Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea Seen in small flocks along the Napo. Cinereous Harrier Circus cinereus One seen at Lomas de Lachay. Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens A few seen in the lowlands. Slate-coloured Hawk Leucopternis schistaceus Common along the Rio Napo. Black-faced Hawk Leucopternis melanops One heard and then located near the canopy walkway.

Black-collared Hawk (Eustace Barnes)

Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis Common at Muyuna. Black-chested Buzzard Eagle Geranoaetus melanoleucus Common at Lomas de Lachay. Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris Commonly seen. Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus One seen in the lowlands. Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus Seen at Carrizales. Variable Hawk Buteo polyosoma Common at Lomas de Lachay. Black Hawk Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus One seen at Explornapo and another heard at Explorama. Black Caracara Daptrius ater A few seen along the larger rivers. Red-throated Caracara Ibycter americanus Commonly heard at Explornapo. Mountain Caracara Phalcoboenus megalopterus Common in the high mountains. Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Common along the larger rivers. American Kestrel Falco sparverius A common falcon. Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis A couple seen distantly hunting at Lomas de Lachay. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis A few seen in lowlands.

33 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus Seen along the Amazon and on the coast. Sunbittern Eurypyga helias Several seen at Explornapo. Sungrebe Heliornis fulica (L) One seen very briefly at Muyuna. Chestnut-headed Crake anurolimnas castaneiceps (H) Black-banded Crake Laterallus fasciatus (H) Heard along the Rio Napo. Grey-breasted Crake Laterallus exilis Several heard and maybe two seen at Explornapo. Plumbeous Rail Pardirallus sanguinolentus Common at Laguna Huacarpay. Common Gallinule Gallinula chloropus Common on the coast. Andean Coot Fulica ardesiaca Common at Laguna Huacarpay. Peruvian Thick-knee Burhinus superciliaris Several seen at Lomas de Lachay and Pantanos de Villa.

Blackish Oystercatcher (Eustace Barnes)

Blackish Oystercatcher Haematopus ater Common at Pucusana American Oystercatcher Haematopus palliatus Several pairs found at Pantanos de Villa. Black-necked Stilt himantopus mexicanus a couple noted at Huacarpay lakes. Andean Lapwing Vanellus resplendens Seen in the Andes. Killdeer Charadrius vociferans (H) Heard at Pantanos de Villa. Collared Plover Charadrius collaris Common on river islands. Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus A few near Muyuna on the Amazon. Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Common. Least Seedsnipe Thinocorus rumicivorus A few seen and heard at Lomas de Lachay. Hudsonian Whimbrel Numenius hudsonicus Seen on the coast. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleucos Seen on river islands. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Common on the coast. Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitarius Seen along the Amazon. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularius Common. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres Seen at Pucusana. Surfbird Aphriza virgata A few found at Pucusana Pectoral Sandpiper Calidris melanotus a few found on river islands. Wilson’s Phalarope Phalaropus tricolor A few seen at Pantanos de Villa. Black Skimmer Rynchops niger A couple noted along the Amazon.

34 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Andean Gull Chroicocephalus serranus Common in the Andes. Grey-hooded Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Common on the coast. Laughing Gull Leucophaeus atricilla Thousands on the coast. Franklin’s Gull Leucophaeus pipixcan A few on the coast. Grey Gull Leucophaeus modestus Very few on the coast. Belcher’s Gull Larus belcheri Common. Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus Common. Royal Tern Thalasseus maximus A few on the coast. Elegant Tern Thalasseus elegans One at Pantanos de Villa. Cabot’s Tern Thalasseus acutiflavidus One in large flock of Laughing Gulls. Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris Common in Amazonian lowlands.

Large-billed Tern (Eustace Barnes)

Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex Abundant in Amazonian lowlands Inca Tern Larosterna inca Abundant at Pucusana. Rock Pigeon Columba livia Least said. Spot-winged Pigeon Patagoenas maculosus Common in the Sacred valley. Band-tailed Pigeon Patagoenas fasciatus A few seen at Carrizales. Pale-vented Pigeon Patagoenas cayannensis Common in riparian habitats in Amazonia. Plumbeous pigeon Patagoenas plumbea Fairly common in the lowlands. Ruddy pigeon Patagoenas subvinacea A few in the lowlands. Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata Abundant on the coast. West Peruvian Dove Zenaida meloda Very common on the coast. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Common in the lowlands. Croaking Ground Dove Columbina cruziana A few on the coast. Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa (H) Heard at Allpahuayo Mishana. Bare-faced Ground Dove Metriopelia ceciliae Seen in the Sacred valley. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi A few at Aguas Calientes and on river islands.

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Grey-fronted Dove (Eustace Barnes)

Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla Common in the lowlands. White-throated Quail Dove Geotrygon frenata (H) Heard at Aguas Calientes. Blue and yellow Macaw Ara ararauna A few seen at Muyuna where uncommon. Red and green Macaw Ara chloroptera Small numbers at ExplorNapo. Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilata Not uncommon on river islands at ExplorNapo. Mitred Parakeet Aratinga mitrata Seen at Aguas Calientes. ‘Chapman’s’ Parakeet Aratinga mitrata alticola Three seen Abra Malaga at Carrizales. White-eyed Parakeet Aratinga leucophthalmus Seen at Explorama and elsewhere in the Amazon. Dusky-headed parakeet Aratinga weddellii Abundant in the Amazonian lowlands. Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura Common at ExplorNapo. Mountain Parakeet Psilopsiagon aurifrons Quite a number at Lomas de Lachay. Blue-winged Parrotlet Forpus xanthopterygius Common at Explorama. Canary-winged Parakeet Brotogeris versicolurus Abundant around Iquitos and on river islands. Cobalt-winged Parakeet Brotogeris cyanopterus Common at Explorama. Black-headed Parrot Pionites melanocephalus Commonly heard and a few glimpsed. at ExplorNapo. Orange-cheeked Parrot Pyrilia barrabandi Heard commonly and a few seen from the canopy walkway. Short-tailed Parrot Graydidascalus brachyurus Common on river islands, Muyuna and Explorama. Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Uncommon around Iquitos. Festive Amazon Amazona festiva Good numbers seen at Muyuna. Yellow-crowned Amazon Amazona ochrocephala Common at Muyuna. Orange-winged Amazon Amazona amazonica Small numbers seen around Iquitos. Mealy Amazon Amazona farinosa A few found at ExplorNapo and Muyuna. Hoatzin Opisthocomus hoazin Seen along the Rio Napo, at Cumaceba and Muyuna. Greater Ani Crotophaga major Common along the larger rivers. Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common in the Amazon. Striped cuckoo Tapera naevia A calling bird seen at Muyuna. Little Cuckoo Coccyzus minuta A few noted. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Seen at several sites. Black-bellied Cuckoo Piaya melanogaster A couple seen briefly at ExplorNapo. Yellow-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus americanus A single bird found at Aguas Calientes. Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba One at our first stop being mobbed. Northern Tawny-bellied Screech-Owl Megascops watsonii Seen at ExplorNapo. Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata (H) Heard at ExplorNapo. Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspillata (H) Heard at ACTS.

36 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum Several recorded. Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia Common on the coast. Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus One seen at Lomas de Lachay. Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis Seen at Muyuna. Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus Several found at Muyuna. Short-tailed Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus Several seen at ExplorNapo. Sand-coloured Nighthawk Chordeiles rupestris Good numbers seen along the Rio Nanay. Common Nighthawk Chordeiles minor Seen in the lowlands. Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopygia Common along the Rio Nanay. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis (H) Heard only at Muyuna. Ladder-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis climacocerca A pair found along the Rio Napo and others at Explorama. White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris A few seen at Huacarpay. Pale-rumped Swift Chaetura egregia Small numbers seen at ExplorNapo. Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris Common in the lowlands. Short-tailed swift Chaetura brachyura Common in the lowlands. White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus A few seen at Machu Picchu. Andean Swift Aeronautes andecolus Good numbers seen at Ollantaytambo. Neotropical Palm Swift Tachornis squamata Common. Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsutus Manu heard and several seen. Green hermit Phaethornis guy (H) Heard at Machu Picchu. White-bearded Hermit Phaethornis hispidus One at Explorama. Great-billed Hermit Phaethornis malaris Singles seen at many sites.

Straight-billed Hermit (Eustace Barnes)

Straight-billed Hermit Phaethornis bourcieri Common at Allpahuayo Mishana. Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber Several birds seen at a lek at ExplorNapo. White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora A few seen. Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus A few seen at Aguas Calientes.

37 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans Common. Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana Amethyst-throated Sunangel Heliangelus amethysticollis Seen very briefly at Carrizales. Blue-chinned Sapphire Chlorestes notata several found at Cumaceba. Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata A few noted. Golden-tailed Sapphire Chrysuronia oenone Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana Olive-spotted Hummingbird Leucippus chlorocercus Abundant on river islands. White-bellied Hummingbird Amazilia chionogaster A few noted at Ollantaytambo. Green and white Hummingbird Amazilia viridicauda Common at Machu Picchu. Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriata Common in the lowlands. Gould’s Jewelfront Heliodoxa aurescens Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana Chestnut-breasted Coronet Boissonneaua matthewsii Common at Aguas Calientes. Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis Seen above Ollantaytambo. White-tufted Sunbeam Aglaeactis castelnaudii Seen above Ollantaytambo. Gould’s Inca Coeligena inca Two seen at Aguas Calientes. Violet-throated Starfrontlet Coeligena violifer One seen briefly at Carrizales. Great Sapphirewing Pterophanes cyanopterus Quite numerous above Ollantaytambo.

Giant Hummingbird (Eustace Barnes)

Giant Hummingbird Patagona gigas Common in the Sacred valley. Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii Seen at Aguas Calientes. Black-tailed Trainbearer Lesbia victoriae Several noted at Ollantaytambo. Bearded Mountaineer Oreonympha nobilis Seen at Ollantaytambo. Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina Common at Carrizales. Scaled Metaltail Metallura aeneocauda One seen at Carrizales. Blue-mantled Thornbill Chalcostigma stanleyi Seen at Abra Malaga Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi A few seen at Aguas Calientes. Black-eared Fairy Heliothryx auritus One seen at ExplorNapo. Oasis Hummingbird Rhodopis vesper Abundant at Lomas de Lachay.

38 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Peruvian Sheartail Thaumastura cora One seen poorly at Lomas de Lachay. Purple-collared Woodstar Myrtis fanny Fairly common at Lomas de Lachay. Black-tailed Trogon Trogon melanurus Heard and seen at many sites. Green-backed Trogon Trogon viridis Several seen at ExplorNapo. Amazonian Trogon Trogon ramonianus A pair seen at ExplorNapo. Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui Common at Explorama.

Collared Trogon (Eustace Barnes)

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris Seen at ExplorNapo. American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea Several seen at Muyuna. Green and rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda several noted at ExplorNapo and Muyuna. Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana Very few seen. Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Common. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata Common. Amazonian Motmot Momotus momota One at Allpahuayo Mishana. Andean Motmot Momotus aequatorialis Seen at Aguas Calientes. Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii A pair at ExplorNapo. White-eared Jacamar Galbalcyrhynchus leucotis Common in floodplain forests. Yellow-billed jacamar Galbula albirostris Seen at ExplorNapo.

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Blue-cheeked jacamar (Eustace Barnes)

Blue-cheeked Jacamar Galbula cyanicollis Common at Muyuna. White-chinned jacamar Galbula tombacea Several seen at Explorama. Bluish-fronted Jacamar Galbula cyanescens Seen Muyuna and Cumaceba. Purplish Jacamar Galbula chalcothorax A pair found at ExplorNapo. Paradise Jacamar Galbula dea seen at Allpahuayo Mishana Great Jacamar Jacamerops aurea One seen very briefly at ExplorNapo. White-necked Puffbird Notharchus hyperrhynchus (H) Heard only . usually seen from canopy towers. Brown-banded Puffbird Notharchus ordii (H) Unusually only heard at a Allpahuayo Mishana. Collared Puffbird Bucco capensis Seen at Muyuna. Black-streaked Puffbird Malacoptila fulvogularis (H) Heard at Aguas Calientes. Rufous-necked Puffbird Malacoptila rufa Seen at Muyuna. A great find. Rusty-necked Nunlet Nonnula rubecula One taped in at ExplorNapo. Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons Common. White-fronted Nunbird Monasa morphoeus Seen on the terra firma at ExplorNapo. Yellow-billed Nunbird Monasa flavirostris The final piece in the Nunbird jigsaw. Swallow-winged Puffbird Chelidoptera tenebrosa A few seen along the bigger rivers. Scarlet-crowned Barbet Capito aurovirens Common in riverine forests. Gilded Barbet Capito auratus Commonly seen. Lemon-throated Barbet Eubucco richardsoni Commonly heard. seen Shimiguycocha. Versicoloured Barbet Eubucco versicolor Several seen at Aguas Calientes. Lettered Aracari Pteroglossus inscriptus Seen along the Rio Napo. Ivory-billed Aracari Pteroglossus azara Seen at ExplorNapo. Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis A few seen at widely scattered sites. Many-banded Aracari Pteroglossus pluricinctus A few noted during the tour. Golden-collared Toucanet Selenidera reinwardtii A pair noted at ExplorNapo. White-throated Toucan Ramphastos tucanus Common.

40 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus Common. Ocellated Piculet Picumnus dorbignyanus A few noted at Aguas Calientes. Plain-breasted Piculet Picumnus castelnau A few seen along the Amazon and Napo. Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Seen on the older Amazon island. Red-stained Woodpecker Veniliornis affinis Seen at ExplorNapo. Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula (H) Heard at ExplorNapo. Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus A few heard at Aguas Calientes. Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula A few seen on river islands. Andean Flicker Colaptes rupicola A few seen in the high Andes. Scale-breasted Woodpecker Celeus grammicus Seen at ExplorNapo. Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elegans A few seen at Shimiguycocha. Cream-coloured Woodpecker Celeus flavus A common woodpecker. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Very few noted. Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis Seen at several sites. Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos One seen and others heard. Greyish Miner Geositta maritima A couple seen at Lomas de Lachay. Coastal Miner Geositta peruviana Common at Lomas de Lachay. Cream-winged Cinclodes Cinclodes fuscus Seen at Abra Malaga. Royal Cinclodes Cinclodes aricomae A great success! Two seen at Abra Malaga. Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes Cinclodes taczanowskii In his usual spot. Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucops Seen along the Napo and Amazon. Bay Hornero Furnarius torridus A couple seen along the Amazon. Lesser Hornero Furnarius minor Seen on most river islands. Tawny Tit-spinetail Leptasthenura yanacensis Seen at Abra Malaga.

White-browed Tit-Spinetail (Eustace Barnes)

White-browed Tit-spinetail Leptasthenura xenothorax Seen at Abra Malaga in the Polylepis woodlands..

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Cactus Canastero (Eustace Barnes)

Cactus Canastero Asthenes cactorum A few noted at Lomas de Lachay. Rusty-fronted Canastero Asthenes ottonis Seen at Huacarpay and heard elsewhere. Streak-throated Canastero Asthenes humilis Common in the high Andes.

Line-fronted Canastero (Eustace Barnes)

Line-fronted Canastero Asthenes urubambensis Seen at Abra Malaga. Junin Canastero Asthenes virgata A pair found at Abra Malaga.

42 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Azara’s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae Seen at Aguas Calientes. Dark-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albigularis Seen on river islands in the Napo. White-bellied Spinetail Synallaxis propinqua Common on the younger river islands. Plain-crowned spinetail Synallaxis gujanensis Seen on river islands. Maybe a full species. Marcapata Spinetail Cranioleuca marcapatae Several pairs noted at Carrizales. Parker’s Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpecula Common on middle aged islands. Creamy-crested Spinetail Cranioleuca albicapilla Common above Ollantaytambo. Red and white Spinetail Certhiaxis mustelinus seen on younger river islands. Wren-like Rushbird Phleocryptes melanops common at Huacarpay. Orange-fronted Plushcrown Metopothrix aurantiaca Small numbers seen on the Amazon river islands. Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger Seen at Carrizales. Point-tailed Palmcreeper Berlepschia rikeri a surprise at ExplorNapo. Chestnut-winged Hookbill Ancistrops strigilatus (H) Heard at Allpahuayo Mishana. Oddly it came very close. Eastern Woodhaunter Hyloctistes subulatus Seen at ExplorNapo in a mixed flock. Chestnut-winged Foliage-gleaner Philydor erythropterum (H) Heard at ExplorNapo. Cinnamon-rumped foliage gleaner Philydor pyrrhodes (H) Frustratingly heard only. Not a target but…. Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Plain Xenops Xenops minutus Not uncommon. Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans Common at Aguas Calientes. Spot-throated Woodcreeper Deconychura stictolaema Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus (H) Heard only Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Seen at many sites. Long-billed Woodcreeper Nasica longirostris Commonly seen. Cinnamon-throated Woodcreeper Dendrexetastes rufigula (H) Heard all over the place. Not looked for. Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes certhia (H) Heard but not looked for. Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus Seen in several spots. Zimmer’s Woodcreeper Dendroplex kiernii Seen on a couple of older river islands. A cryptic species.

Striped Woodcreeper (Eustace Barnes)

Striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus obsoletus Seen in many locations. The most obvious woodcreeper.

43 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Tschudi’s Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus chunchotambo A couple noted. Elegant Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus elegans Well named indeed. A couple found. Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatoides The default large woodcreeper. Lineated Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes albolineatus Seen from canopy walkway. Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus (H) Another heard only we ran out of time for. Fulvous Antshrike Frederickena fulva This one got our attention. Good views for all. Great Antshrike Taraba major Seen at Cumaceba. Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis Seen along Rio Nanay. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus Seen on river islands. Castelnau’s Antshrike Thamnophilus cryptoleucus Seen on a couple of river islands. Plain-winged Antshrike Thamnophilus schistaceus Seen at Cumaceba and heard elsewhere. Mouse-coloured Antshrike Thamnophilus murinus Heard and seen at several locations. Amazonian Antshrike Thamnophilus amazonicus Common at Muyuna. Variable Antshrike Thamnophilus caerulescens A pair seen at Aguas Calientes. Pearly Antshrike Megastictus margaritatus One seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Black Bushbird Neoctantes niger Superb! great views of a male for all. Dusky-throated Antshrike Thamnomanes ardesiacus Flock leader north side.. Saturnine Antshrike Thamnomanes saturninus Flock leader south side. Cinereous Antshrike Thamnomanes caesius Flock leader north side. Bluish-slate Antshrike Thamnomanes schistogynus Flock leader south side. Spot-winged Antshrike Pygiptila stellaris A few noted. Stipple-throated Antwren Epinecrophylla haematonota A pair seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Plain-throated Antwren Isleria hauxwelli A couple taped in to general disbelief. Moustached Antwren Myrmotherula ignota (H) No dice at the canopy walkway. Pygmy Antwren Myrmotherula brachyura Good views. Amazonian Streaked Antwren Myrmotherula multostriata A struggle. White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris Lurks in sub-canopy most flocks. Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula longipennis Seen at ExplorNapo. Grey Antwren Myrmotherula menetriesii Found in most flocks. Leaden Antwren Myrmotherula assimilis Found on islands near Muyuna. Dugand’s Antwren Herpsilochmus dugandi Easily seen from the canopy walkway. Ancient Antwren Herpsilochmus gentryi Fairly easily seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Ash-winged Antwren Terenura spodioptila (H) Heard at ExplorNapo.

Band -tailed Antbird (Eustace Barnes). Grey Antbird Cercomacra cinerascens Seen at a couple of locations. Varzea Blackish Antbird Cercomacra nigrescens Seen at Cumaceba. Ash-breasted Antbird Myrmoborus lugubris seen on a couple of river islands.

44 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Black-faced Antbird Myrmoborus myotherinus Anyone noticed the north side song differs from south side song? Black-tailed antbird Myrmoborus melanurus Not uncommon south side at Muyuna. Peruvian Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis peruviana Seen at ExplorNapo. Yellow-browed Antbird Hypocnemis hypoxantha Common on the terra firma. Black-chinned antbird Hypocnemoides melanopogon North bank species. Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda South bank replacement for above species. Black and white Antbird myrmochanes hemileucus I have never seen so many! 30 or so one island! Silvered Antbird Sclateria naevia One was taped in and it came right past us! Allpahuayo Antbird Percnostola arenarum A pair seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Amazonas Antbird Percnostola minor jensoni Several seen. Should it be Jenson’s Antbird? Slate-coloured Antbird Schistocichla leucostigma Fairly common at ExplorNapo. Zimmer’s Antbird Myrmeciza castanea A few seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Black-throated antbird Myrmeciza atrothorax Seen on the older river islands. White-shouldered Antbird Myrmeciza melanoceps Common in flood plain forest Plumbeous Antbird Myrmeciza hyperythra Another common species of the floodplains. Sooty Antbird Myrmeciza fortis Glimpsed at ExplorNapo. Not targeted, maybe should do so next time. White-plumed Antbird Pithys albifrons a couple seen at a small ant swarm. Bicoloured Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis A couple noted at the same ant swarm as the previous species. Dot-backed Antbird Hylophylax punctulatus Seen along the Napo in flooded forest. Common Scale-backed Antbird Willisornis poecilinotus Seen at ExplorNapo. Black-spotted Bare-eye Phlegopsis nigromaculatus Seen and heard at ExplorNapo. Rufous-capped Antthrush Formicarius colma One bird seen very briefly at Allpahuayo Mishana. Stripe-headed Antpitta Grallaria andecolus A couple seen at Abra Malaga. Rufous Antpitta Grallaria rufula occabambae (H) Heard at Abra Malaga. Spotted Antpitta Hylopezus macularius (H) One heard along the Rio Sucusari. We had no time for this one! Thrush-like Antpitta Myrmothera campanisona One seen very well at ExplorNapo. Chestnut-belted Gnateater Conopophaga aurita A superb male seen at ExplorNapo. Rusty-belted Tapaculo Liosceles thoracicus One taped in at ExplorNapo. Diademed Tapaculo Scytalopus schulenbergi (H) Heard at Abra Malaga. Puna Tapaculo Scytalopus simonsi A couple seen rather briefly at Abra Malaga. Wing-barred Piprites Piprites chloris (H) Heard at ExplorNapo. Sclater’s Tyrannulet Phyllomyias sclateri Common at Aguas Calientes. Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps A few noted at Aguas Calientes. Tawny-rumped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias uropygialis (H) Heard as we shot up to Abra Malaga. Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus A commonly heard species. Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii Readily found at Allpahuayo Mishana. Grey Elaenia Myiopagis cinereiceps One of the easier tyrannids to identify. Yellow-crowned Elaenia Myiopagis flavivertex Always a confusion species. Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster (H) Heard at Aguas Calientes. White-crested Elaenia Elaenia albiceps urubambensis Common in the scared valley. Brownish Elaenia Elaenia pelzelni One found along the Napo. an overlooked species. highland Elaenia Elaenia obscura One found in the Sacred valley. Others heard. Sierran Elaenia Elaenia pallatangae Common at Carrizales and Machu Picchu. White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme Recorded ExplorNapo. White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys common. White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus One seen at Aguas Calientes. White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus Seen at Carrizales. Ash-breasted tit-Tyrant Anairetes alpinus A few seen at Abra Malaga. Yellow-billed tit-Tyrant Anairetes flavirostris Seen at Huacarpay and in the Sacred valley. Unstreaked Tit Tyrant Anairetes agraphia Seen at Carrizales. Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea Common at Aguas Calientes. River Tyrannulet Serpophaga hypoleuca Common on younger river islands. Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina Another river island bird. Here at least. Ringed Antpipit Corythopis torquata Seen at ExplorNapo. Lesser Wagtail Tyrant Stigmatura napensis Seen on several river islands.

45 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Mishana Tyrannulet Zimmerius villarejoi Readily seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Slender-footed Tyrannulet Zimmerius gracilipes seen from the walkway. Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus seen at Aguas Calientes. Mottle-cheeked Tyrannulet Phylloscartes ventralis Quite common at Aguas Calientes. Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis A few noted. Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginous Heard all over the place. Several seen at fruiting trees. Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris a few at Aguas Calientes. Many-coloured Rush Tyrant Tachuris rubrigastra A bit skulky at Huacarpay. Zimmer’s tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus minimus (H) Maybe we should have given this one a bit more time. Short-tailed Pygmy Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus (H) No time to look for it. Double-banded Pygmy Tyrant Lophotriccus vitiosus Common. Black and white tody Flycatcher Poecilotriccus capitalis Seen at a couple of sites near ExplorNapo. Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris (H) We did try. Spotted Tody Flycatcher Todirostrum maculatum Common. Common Tody Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum A few at Aguas Calientes. Yellow-browed Tody Flycatcher Todirostrum chrysocrotaphum easy from the canopy walkway. Brownish Twistwing Cnipodectes subbrunneus A couple seen at ExplorNapo. Yellow-olive Flatbill Tolmomyias sulphurescens On the river islands around Muyuna. Orange-eyed Flatbill Tolmomyias traylori Seen at Explorama Zimmer’s Flatbill Tolmomyias assimilis Not uncommon. Grey-crowned Flatbill Tolmomyias poliocephalus seen from the walkway. Olive-faced Flatbill Tolmomyias viridiceps A few at Explorama Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans Common at Aguas Calientes. Smoke-coloured Pewee Contopus fumigatus Common at Aguas Calientes. Eastern Wood Pewee Contopus virens Fairly common throughout. Alder Flycatcher Empidonax alnorum seen at Muyuna on a river island.

Sooty phase Vermillion Flycatcher (Eustace Barnes)

Vermillion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus A few noted on the coast. Sooty phase birds in Lima. Riverside Tyrant Knipolegus orenocensis Found only on river islands at Muyuna. White-winged black Tyrant Knipolegus aterrimus A pair on Machu Picchu. Drab Water tyrant Ochthornis littoralis A pair at Explorama Taczanowski’s Ground Tyrant Muscisaxicola griseus Seen in the high Andes. Cinereus Grounds Tyrant Muscisaxicola cinereus Seen in the Andes. Black-billed shrike tyrant Agriornis montana One at Huacarpay. Rufous-webbed bush Tyrant Polioxolmis rufipennis Seen above Ollantaytambo. White-headed Marsh tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala Common on the river islands.

46 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com

Rufous-breasted Chat-tyrant (Eustace Barnes)

Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis Common at Carrizales. Brown-backed Chat Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor Seen at Carrizales. D’Orbigny’s Chat Tyrant Ochthoeca oenanthoides A few noted at Abra Malaga. White-browed Chat Tyrant Ochthoeca leucophrys Not uncommon in drier areas. Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius Common. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis Common. Grey-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis A few noted. Dusky-chested Flycatcher Myiozetetes luteoventris A few seen at ExplorNapo. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Common. Lesser Kiskadee Philydor lictor Common at Muyuna. Yellow-throated Flycatcher Conopias parvus Found at Muyuna. Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus Common at Machu Picchu. Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher Myiodynastes luteiventris A couple noted at Aguas Calientes. Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus A few noted in the lowlands. Boat-billed flycatcher Megarhynchus pitangus Common. Sulphury Flycatcher Tyrannopsis sulphurea Found wherever Mauritia palms found. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Abundant. Greyish mourner Rhytipterna simplex (H) Heard on numerous occasions. Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer Seen on a couple of occasions. Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox (H) Heard all over the place. Rufous-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon ruficauda Seen at ExplorNapo. Cinnamon Attila Attila cinnamomeus Seen at Muyuna. Citron-bellied Attila Attila citriniventris (H) Heard despite a big effort at Allpahuayo Mishana. Dull-capped Attila Attila bolivianus Seen and heard at several locations. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus Seen at ExplorNapo. Red-crested Cotinga Ampelion rubrocristatus seen above Ollantatambo Masked Fruiteater Pipreola pulchra A superb male at Aguas Calientes. A big target on the extension. Black-necked Red Cotinga Phoenicircus nigricollis Seen on three separate days. a tricky bird to see well.. Plum-throated Cotinga Cotinga maynana A couple seen. Spangled Cotinga Cotinga cayana Several seen. Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans Recorded at ExplorNapo. Pompadour Cotinga Xipholena punicea A female seen at Allpahuayo Mishana.

47 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com

Masked Fruiteater (Eustace Barnes)

Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus seen at Muyuna,. Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata Commonly seen. Amazonian Umbrellabird Cephalopterus ornatus Four seen at Explorama. A good bird to see. Saffron-crested Tyrant Manakin Neopelma chrysocephalum Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana. Dwarf Tyrant Manakin Tyranneutes stolzmanni Seen at Explorama. Western Striped Manakin Machaeropterus striolatus Seen at ExplorNapo. Blue-crowned Manakin Lepidothrix coronata common at ExplorNapo. White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus Oddly a couple of males at ACTS, passing through? Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola common although hard to see at ACTS. Orange-crested Manakin Heterocercus aurantiivertex One male found at Allpahuayo Mishana. Wire-tailed Manakin Pipra filicauda A couple seen at a lek. White-crowned Manakin Dixiphia pipra Found in a small area at ExplorNapo. Golden-headed Manakin Dixiphia erythrocephala Abundant. Amazonian royal Flycatcher Onychorhynchus coronatus Seen at ExplorNapo. Heard elsewhere. Whiskered Myiobius Myiobius barbartus (L) One seen at ExplorNapo. Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrinus (H) Several heard. Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana A few noted. Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata A few seen at Explorama. Varzea Schiffornis Schiffornis major Seen and heard along rivers. Brown-winged Schiffornis Schiffornis amazona (H) Heard only. White-browed Purpletuft Iodopleura isabellae seen at several locations. Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor Found at Carrizales. Chestnut-crowned Becard Pachyramphus castaneus Found on the river islands. White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus Common. Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus seen from the canopy walkway. Pink-throated Becard Pachyramphus minor A few noted at ExplorNapo. Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys Common at Aguas Calientes. Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus Common. Dusky-capped Greenlet Hylophilus hypoxanthus A few noted at the canopy walkway. Violaceous Jay Cyanocorax violaceus Not common. White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer A few seen. Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Common.

48 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea A few seen in Iquitos. Blue and white Swallow Pygochelidon cyanoleuca Not uncommon in the Andes and on the coast. Brown-bellied Swallow Orochelidon murina Common in the High Andes. White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata Common at ExplorNapo.. Southern Roughwing Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis Common. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Very numerous in the lowlands. American Cliff swallow Petrochelidon petronota Seen passing through. Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapillus A few seen. Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus A few noted. Inca Wren Pheugopedius eisenmanni Seen Machu Picchu and Carrizales. Coraya Wren Pheugopedius genibarbis A few seen. Buff-breasted Wren Cantorchilus leucotis Common. Southern House Wren Troglodytes musculus Common. Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis Seen at Carrizales. Grey-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys Seen at Aguas Calientes. Scaly-breasted Wren Microcerculus marginatus (H) Heard only. Collared Gnatwren Microbates collaris A bit of a skulker but we saw a couple at ExplorNapo. Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Seen at Muyuna. Long-tailed Mockingbird Mimus longicaudatus A few seen on the coast. Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Seen at Aguas Calientes. Swainson’s Thrush Catharus ustulatus Seen at ExplorNapo. White-eared Solitaire Entomodestes leucotis (H) Heard at Aguas Calientes. Pale-eyed Thrush Turdus leucops A couple seen at Aguas Calientes. Lawrence’s Thrush Turdus lawrencii (H) Heard only at ExplorNapo. Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis Common in the east. Great Thrush Turdus fuscater Common in the Andes. Chiguanco Thrush Turdus chiguanco common in the drier Andes. Glossy-black Thrush Turdus serranus (H) Heard at Machu Picchu. White-necked thrush Turdus albicollis Seen in the lowlands. White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus A few seen on the Urubamba. House Sparrow Passer domesticus Seen on the coast. Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica Seen on the river islands. Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris Seen at Aguas Calientes. White-lored Euphonia Euphonia chrysopasta Seen at Muyuna.

Black Siskin (Eustace Barnes)

White-vented Euphonia Euphonia minuta A couple seen. Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster Not uncommon. Rufous-bellied Euphonia Euphonia rufiventris Seen at ExplorNapo. Thick-billed Siskin Carduelis crassirostris A small flock seen at Abra Malaga. Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica Commonly seen.

49 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Olivaceous Siskin Carduelis olivacea Good numbers at Aguas Calientes. Black Siskin Carduelis atrata A few seen at Abra Malaga. Tropical Parula Setophaga pitiayumi Seen at Aguas Calientes. Blackpoll Warbler Setophaga striata Seen a couple of times. Citrine Warbler Myiothlypis luteoviridis A few seen at Carrizales. Russet-crowned Warbler Myiothlypis coronatus Common at Aguas Calientes. Canada Warbler Cardellina canadensis Seen Aguas Calientes. Slate-throated Whitestart Myioborus miniatus Common. Spectacled Whitestart Myioborus melanocephalus common at higher elevations Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus Seen at several sites.

Dusky-green Oropendola (Eustace Barnes)

Dusky-green Oropendola Psarocolius atrovirens Quite numerous at Aguas Calientes. Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons Numerous in the lowlands. Olive Oropendola Psarocolius bifasciatus A few noted at ExplorNapo. Band-tailed Oropendola Ocyalus latirostris Eventually found near ExplorNapo. Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius (H) Heard only. Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela Common Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus A few seen at Explorama. Moriche Oriole Icterus chrysocephalus (L) Leader only bird at ExplorNapo Oriole Blackbird Gymnomystax mexicanus Common on the river islands. Yellow-winged blackbird Agelasticus thilius a few found at Huacarpay. Yellow-hooded Blackbird Chrysomus icterocephalus Abundant on the river islands. Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus A few seen in the lowlands. Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Commonly seen in the lowlands. Scrub Blackbird Dives warszewiczi Noted in Lima. Red-breasted Blackbird Sturnella militaris Very few along the Napo. Peruvian Meadowlark Sturnella bellicose A few on the coast. Bananaquit Coereba flaveola A few seen in Iquitos. Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis Good numbers seen in the Andes. Yellow-browed Sparrow Ammodramus aurifrons Common along the rivers. Cuzco Brush-finch Atlapetes canigenis One seen at Carrizales.

50 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis A few seen. Magpie Tanager Cissopis leveriana A couple noted. Hooded Tanager Nemosia pileata Common on the river islands. Slaty Tanager Creurgops dentate A pair found at Aguas Calientes. Parodi’s Hemispingus Hemispingus parodi A small group noted at Carrizales. Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis A couple found at Aguas Calientes. Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordid A few on river islands. Rust and yellow Tanager Thlypopsis ruficeps Seen at Aguas Calientes. Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata Several family groups found. Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus A few noted in the lowlands. Fulvous-crested Tanager Tachyphonus surinamus A few noted at ExplorNapo. . White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus A few noted at Aguas Calientes. Fulvous Shrike Tanager Lanio fulvus A couple found at ExplorNapo. Masked Crimson Tanager Ramphocelus nigrogularis Common at Muyuna. Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo Common in the lowlands. Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus Noted at Aguas Calientes and elsewhere in the lowlands. Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Found in the lowlands Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala Seen at Machu Picchu. Blue and yellow Tanager Thraupis bonariensis Quite numerous in the drier valleys. Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota A couple seen at Aguas Calientes. Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix Seen at Aguas Calientes with young. Silver-backed Tanager Tangara viridicollis Seen at Aguas Calientes. Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis Common at Aguas Calientes. Yellow-bellied Tanager Tangara xanthogastra A few seen in the lowlands. Blue and black Tanager Tangara vassorii Seen at Machu Picchu. Turquoise Tanager Tangara mexicana a few in the lowlands. Paradise Tanager Tangara chilensis Common. Opal-crowned Tanager Tangara callophrys a few from the walkway. Saffron-headed Tanager Tangara xanthocephala A few at Aguas Calientes. Green and gold Tanager Tangara schrankii Not uncommon in the lowlands. Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis A couple seen at ExplorNapo. Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata A few noted. Yellow-bellied Dacnis Dacnis flaviventer A pair found near ExplorNapo.. Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana Commonly seen at the walkway. Short-billed Honeycreeper Cyanerpes nitidus Seen from the walkway. Purple honeycreeper Cyanerpes caerulescens Seen from the walkway. Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus a few found at Allpahuayo Mishana. Green honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Seen from the walkway. Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira Seen at Muyuna. Tit-like Dacnis Xenodacnis parina Seen at Carrizales. Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum A couple on our first river island. Pearly-breasted Conebill Conirostrum margaritae A few on the river islands. Cinereous Conebill Conirostrum cinereum Seen at several sites. White-browed Conebill Conirostrum ferrugineiventer Fairly common at Carrizales. Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor A few at Carrizales. Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons Common in Aguas Calientes. Giant Conebill Oreomanes fraseri One seen at Abra Malaga. Rusty Flowerpiercer Diglossa sittoides Seen in the Sacred valley. Black-throated Flowerpiercer Diglossa brunneiventris Seen in the Sacred valley. Masked Flowerpiercer Diglossa cyanea A few at Carrizales. Peruvian Sierra-finch Phrygilus punensis A few noted at Ollantaytambo. Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor Common at Abra Malaga. Ash-breasted Sierra-Finch Phrygilus plebejus A few in the Andes. Band-tailed Sierra-Finch Phrygilus alaudinus Seen at Lomas de Lachay. White-winged Diuca Finch Diuca speculifera a few at Abra Malaga.

51 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com Collared warbling Finch Poospiza hispaniolensis A few at Lomas de Lachay. Chestnut-breasted Mountain Finch Poospiza caesars One above Ollantaytambo. Greenish Yellow Finch Sicalis olivascens A few in the Sacred Valley. Grassland Yellow Finch Sicalis luteola A few at Lomas de Lachay. Raimondi’s Yellow finch Sicalis raimondii Common at Lomas de Lachay. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina A few found. Caquetá Seedeater Sporophila murallae Only one seen at Muyuna. Black and White Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa Several seen at Aguas Calientes Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis A couple at Aguas Calientes. Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris Common on the river islands. Chestnut-bellied Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis (H) heard all over the place but not seen. Dull-coloured Grassquit Tiaris obscurus Seen at Aguas Calientes. Slate-coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus Seen from the walkway. Band-tailed Seedeater Catamenia analis common in the Andes. Plain-coloured Seedeater Catamenia inornata a few at Abra Malaga. Plush-capped finch Catamblyrhynchus diadema A few seen at Carrizales. Highland Hepatic Tanager Piranga lutea One found at Aguas Calientes. Scarlet Tanager Piranga olivacea One female type noted. Red-crowned Ant-Tanager Habia rubica I did remember we had not seen one and taped in a couple. Black-backed Grosbeak Pheucticus aureoventris Seen in Ollantaytambo. Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens Common. Golden-billed Saltator Saltator aurantiirostris a few noted in the sacred valley. Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides. It came in seconds after I said it would not come in.

Lomas de Lachay (Eustace Barnes.) MAMMALS Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth Bradypus variegatus We must have seen six or seven. Long-nosed Bat Rhynchonycteris naso Fairly common. White-lined Sac-winged Bat Saccopteryx bilineatus Fairly common along the rivers. Great fishing Bat Noctilio leporinus Recorded at Muyuna. Big Brown Bat Eptesicus furinallis Seen at Muyuna and ExplorNapo.

52 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com

Pygmy Marmoset (Eustace Barnes)

Pygmy Marmoset Callithrix pygmaeas seen at Cumaceba and Muyuna. Black-mantled Tamarin Saguinus nigricollis Commonly seen at ExplorNapo. Red-backed Saddleback Tamarin Saguinus lagonotus Seen at Allpahuayo Mishana and Explorama. Lucifer Titi-Monkey Callicebus lucifer (H) Heard in numerous locations. Coppery Titi Monkey Callicebus cupreus Recorded at Muyuna. Ecuadorian Squirrel Monkey Saimiri macrodon seen at several locations. Spix’s night Monkey Aotus vociferan Recorded at ExplorNapo. Colombian Red Howler Alouatta seniculus (H) Heard at Muyuna. South American Sea Lion Otaria flavescens Seen at Pucusana White-tailed Deer Odocoileus virginianus A doe with a fawn at Huacarpay. Amazon River Dolphin Inia geoffreyrensis Seen along the Amazon Tucuxi Sotalia fluviatilis Seen along the Amazon. Amazon Dwarf Squirrel Microsciurus flaviventer a couple seen at ExplorNapo. Black Agouti Dasyprocta fuliginosa One seen very briefly at ExplorNapo, where hunted.. Kinkajou Potos flavus A few noted at Muyuna.

53 BirdQuest Tour Report: Amazonian Peru www.birdquest-tours.com