History with a Beer Lover

I'm a fan of RVA's beer and history, and this is my way of combining the two 3D RVA: Live Like a Local

My name is Brandon Carter, and I’m a Richmond resident. I moved (back) to Richmond in 2014 after stints in Johnson City, Tennessee and Gate City, Virginia. I formerly served as a Seasonal Park Ranger at the Richmond National Battlefield Park. I’m currently employed by the law firm of LeClairRyan.

My itinerary is geared towards someone like me – A lover of Richmond history, beer, and food (not always fine dining, especially while visiting the battlefields!). My lodging and dining ideas are in the moderate range with a few suggestions for that vacation splurge. Finally, many of the historic sites found in this itinerary are not included in the Richmond Regional Visitor’s Guide. As Richmond Regional Tourism already does an excellent job of marketing those sites, this itinerary is meant to offer some additional ideas for future inclusion to the Guide.

Day 1:

Welcome to Richmond! Today will be filled with activities in the immediate vicinity of Downtown. If today is a weekday, I suggest parking in one of many Downtown garages or lots (or ask your hotel about its parking if you’re able to check-in early). If it’s a weekend, street parking is free! Just carefully mind any additional restrictions on street signs.

Morning:

-Fuel up with coffee and a pastry at Shockoe Espresso in Shockoe Slip. Walk over to the fountain just outside the front door and note the unique horseheads.

-Walk up Cary Street, then take a right on 12th Street. Turn left on Bank Street and enter the Virginia State Capitol through its state-of-the-art underground portal. While taking a guided tour (Free!) is highly recommended, the self-guided tour brochures found at the front desk also make for excellent guides. Take special note of the Old House Chamber where Aaron Burr was tried for treason and Robert E. Lee assumed command of Virginia forces at the outset of the Civil War.

-Upon exiting the Capitol, walk up the brick path to the Washington Monument. Virginians initially hoped the monument would become the final resting place of George Washington. Though unsuccessful in the bid for Washington’s remains, the monument did become the defining image on the Great Seal of the Confederacy. Also, a plaque on the east side of the monument denotes the location where Jefferson Davis was sworn in as the Confederate President. -Continue eastward down the row of monuments, taking special note of the newest: A monument to Virginians who participated in the Civil Rights Movement.

-Approach the guard building just outside the Executive Mansion and inquire about tours (Tour hours are posted on the official website, along with a telephone number for reservations). Virginia’s Executive Mansion is one of the oldest in the nation. Be sure to ask about Stonewall Jackson’s embalming for an oft-overlooked event in the home’s storied history.

Afternoon:

-Head back down the hill to the corner of Main and 12th Streets. On one corner, you’ll find the Christopher’s Runaway Gourmay food cart. Christopher’s turns out some of the best chicken salad you’ve ever tasted. On the other side of 12th are Jo-Jo’s NY Style Pizza and Citizen. Jo’Jo’s provides one of the most authentic New York-style slices outside NYC, while Citizen’s menu changes regularly with fresh seasonal ingredients.

-After lunch, walk at least a portion of the Richmond Slave Trail and Canal Walk. The Slave Trail begins on Broad Street at the First African Church and progresses down 15th Street. Take in the beautiful Main Street Station along the way. When you reach the Canal Walk, head east. You’ll eventually come to Browns Island. During the Civil War, the island served as the Confederate States Laboratory. Here, teenage girls produced gunpowder for the Confederacy. Make sure to read the marker about the tragic event of Friday the 13th, 1863.

-From Browns Island, turn south and cross the James River on the brand new Tyler Potterfield Bridge. This pedestrian bridge, years in the making, connects Richmond with Manchester. Manchester was once the first suburb of Richmond, but it’s now incorporated within the city limits. Take in the views along the way, and head down West 7th Street for a beer on the deck at Legend Brewing. Legend is Richmond’s oldest brewery and part of the Richmond Beer Trail. Pick up a Beer Trail map and have your server stamp it for you. After you receive five stamps from local breweries, you’ll be rewarded with some RVA Beer apparel. If you prefer the jolt of caffeine, walk to nearby Brewers Café on Bainbridge Street for some excellent coffee. Return to Downtown via the sidewalk of the 14th Street Bridge, also know as the Mayo Bridge. A bridge has been on this site for over 200 years.

Evening:

-Time to check-in! If you wish to stay Downtown, some popular options are the Omni, the Berkeley, and Linden Row Inn. Linden Row is located on the site of a garden where Edgar Allen Poe played as a child. For more upscale options, explore the Jefferson or Quirk Hotels. Plenty of more moderate hotels can be found just outside the Downtown area.

-While dinner options are truly limitless in Richmond, I suggest hailing a cab or Uber/Lyft for a trip to Savory Grain on West Broad Street. The cocktail list is one of the most expansive, yet reasonable in town. From Savory Grain, you have two options (really three if you decide to do both): Scotts Addition or the West Broad Beer Paradise (i.e. Mekong and the Answer Brewpub). -Scotts Addition, just north of Savory Grain, is home to four breweries (soon to be five), two cideries, and one meadery, and one distillery. Mekong has been named America’s best craft beer bar by numerous publications. Mekong’s owner, An Bui, opened the Answer Brewpub next door in 2014. The Answer’s Larceny IPA won best beer in Virginia during its first ever appearance at the Virginia Craft Brewers Cup.

-After riding (no way you’re driving back after that) back to town, it’s likely time to call it a night. If you’d like a nightcap, I recommend a hot toddy from Penny Lane at 5th and Franklin or Rosie Connolly’s on the 17th Street Market. If it’s a Friday or Saturday and you’re still hungry, City Dogs on East Cary serves a variety of dogs and burgers right up until 3 AM.

Day 2:

Today is all about history. The majority of the day from breakfast until early evening will be spent visiting sites in and around the Richmond National Battlefield Park’s driving tour.

Morning:

-Your first historic stop will be in the Church Hill neighborhood, so some ideal options for breakfast are Sub Rosa Bakery or Captain Buzzy’s Beanery.

-The Park headquarters are found on East Broad Street on a rise known as Chimborazo Hill. Chimborazo was the site of the Western Hemisphere’s largest hospital during the Civil War-era. The museum inside this old weather station contains an excellent diorama of the hospital.

-From Chimborazo, head west on East Broad until reaching 5th Street. Go south on 5th until reaching the bottom of the hill. The big brick buildings on your right make up the Tredegar complex. The Park museum is free and provides a wonderful overview of the Civil War in Richmond. If you have the time, check out the American Civil War Museum just next door.

-From Tredegar, you’ll be following the route laid out in the Park brochure. The first stop after Tredegar is Chickahominy Bluff, followed by the Beaver Dam Creek Battlefield. Be sure to take note of Walnut Grove Presbyterian Church on your left as you continue the trail. Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson planned their next moves in the churchyard. Also check out the monument resting on a stone slab. These are called Freeman Markers after Douglas Freeman, the man who led the first effort to preserve Richmond’s battlefields. The markers themselves have become historic attractions. You’ll notice them throughout the day.

-For lunch, there are a number of options. You could very slightly backtrack to Carter’s Pig Pen Bar-B-Que for some of the best smoked meat in the area. The Cold Harbor Restaurant with its famous all-day breakfast is not far from Carter’s. If you prefer continuing forward, the Fas Mart convenience store at the corner of Cold Harbor and Creighton has a hidden gem: Red’s. It’s rare that any convenience store food could be recommended for someone on vacation, but Red’s fries its chicken fresh and in-house daily. That chicken goes great on a picnic table at the Cold Harbor County Park just ahead. The park has a short trail that crosses a number of Civil War-era earthworks.

-After lunch, stop by the Cold Harbor Visitor Center for the light-up wall maps that explain the battles that occurred in the area. After picking the Ranger’s brain, walk or drive the Cold Harbor trails. Ulysses S. Grant declared this battle to have been his biggest regret of the entire war. Afterwards, back track a half-mile to the Gaines’ Mill Battlefield. Here, Lee and Jackson achieved victory together for the first time. Make sure to ask the Ranger about the massive new tract of land just acquired by the park. Richmond’s battlefields are becoming preservation success stories.

-The drive will take you past the Trent House, General McClellan’s headquarters during the Seven Days Campaign. Make sure the read the Civil War Trails sign outside it. Do the same at the Savage’s Station Battlefield.

-At Glendale, you’ll find another visitor center that’s open seasonally. The building contains an excellent presentation of the battles of Glendale and Malvern Hill. The battlefields, much like Gaines’ Mill, have become a preservationist’s dream. Continue down the tour route and be sure to walk the trails at Malvern Hill.

-The route ends with a stop at Fort Harrison. The fort is a great example of the Confederate entrenchments that circled Richmond. It was captured by Union troops in a large attack in September 1864. As you make your way back to Downtown on Route 5, stop to read the historic markers describing the Battle of New Market Heights. African-American Union troops played a crucial role in the action here.

-For those truly hardcore Civil War buffs, I recommend side trips to Drewry’s Bluff in Chesterfield County and the Dabbs House on Nine Mile Road in Henrico County. Drewry’s Bluff features a panoramic view of the James, while the Dabbs House served as Lee’s headquarters prior to the Seven Days. Ask the on-site staff about Stonewall Jackson napping outside prior to his meeting with Lee. By this point, you’ve learned that Jackson’s exhaustion played a key role during the Seven Days.

Evening:

-By now, you’ve undoubtedly worked up a huge appetite. If you’d like a brew with dinner, I recommend Triple Crossing Brewing’s Fulton location on Hatcher Street. The brewery has a custom built brick oven for pizzas. Speaking of pizza, Bottoms Up Pizza on Dock Street is a Richmond institution. Anyone who can eat more than one slice in a sitting should get a plaque on the wall. For a more upscale experience, check out the Roosevelt on Church Hill. Cocktails there are equally impressive.

-To round out the evening, take in the view of Downtown Richmond from Libby Hill Park. If you’re still thirsty (totally understandable after all that battlefield hiking earlier), visit world- famous Stone Brewing’s East Coast brewery at the foot of Church Hill on Williamsburg Road. Finally, take a look at the National’s schedule to see what national touring act is playing in Richmond tonight.

Day 3:

Today will be another heavy dose of history with a special focus on Richmond’s unique neighborhoods.

Morning: -Start off with breakfast/brunch at the Urban Farmhouse in Shockoe Slip. This location is the flagship for the local chain. You’ll find excellent coffee drinks and breakfast items to get your day going.

-From Downtown, head west on Canal Street towards the Oregon Hill neighborhood. Oregon Hill is home to some of Richmond’s newest and oldest attractions. L’Opossum has quickly become one of Richmond’s hottest restaurants. Though it’s only open for dinner, it may be worth revisiting tonight (or last night!). Not far from L’Opossum is Hollywood Cemetery. Hollywood is the final resting place for two US Presidents, the Confederacy’s only President, tens of thousands of Civil War soldiers, and numerous other local dignitaries. Unlike many cemeteries, Hollywood is truly a beautiful place. The cemetery was designed to be park-like, with its narrow drives winding through groves of trees. As you approach the graves of Presidents John Tyler and James Monroe, you’ll be greeted with a breathtaking view of Downtown Richmond and the James River below.

-Next up is Jackson Ward, one of Richmond’s first African-American neighborhoods. This area was once referred to as the “Harlem of the South.” One of the most famous residents of Jackson Ward was Maggie Walker. Her home is preserved by the National Park Service and interpreted by a visitor center on 2nd Street. Maggie was not only the first African-American to own a bank, but she was also America’s first female to own a bank. Through the bank and other businesses, she created dozens of jobs for her neighbors. It is said that her funeral procession ranks with Stonewall Jackson’s as the largest in Richmond history.

Afternoon:

-Staying in Jackson Ward for lunch, I recommend Mama J’s. You’d be hard pressed to find better soul food anywhere. As if the food wasn’t enough to entice you, Mama J herself has long dedicated her time and financial resources to assist Richmond’s less-privileged.

-After lunch, travel east on Broad back to Church Hill. The hill is named after St. John’s Church, which still stands at the corner of 25th and Broad. The church’s claim to fame came on March 23rd, 1775, when Patrick Henry gave his famous “Give me liberty, or give me death” speech during the Second Virginia Convention. If today is a Saturday or Sunday in summer, do not miss the free reenactment. Pay close attention to the reasons Henry gives in his argument to raise a militia in Virginia. If there’s no reenactment today, drop into the church’s visitor center. A docent will be happy to give you a tour of the building. In the church’s graveyard, you’ll find the graves of Edgar Allen Poe’s mother and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, George Wythe. If all the history has once again made you thirsty, there’s not a better place for post-St. John’s libations than the Patrick Henry Pub located only two blocks west.

-From Church Hill, meander west on Broad, then find your way north on 11th Street. If it’s a weekday, walk into City Hall, enter an elevator, and press the “OD” button for the observation deck. From there, you may be able to see some landmarks you passed during yesterday’s battlefield trekking.

-After leaving City Hall, walk north of Broad. This area is known as Court End. It contains some of the oldest homes still standing in Downtown Richmond. Three such homes are well worth your time: The John Marshall House (home of one of the country’s most famous Chief Justices), the Valentine Museum and Wickham House (heavy on Richmond history), and the White House of the Confederacy. Pick and choose depending on your time and interests. If John Marshall is more your cup of tea, why not pay your respects at his grave in nearby Shockoe Hill Cemetery?

Evening:

-Nothing wraps up a beautiful Richmond evening like taking in the view of the skyline across a famous bend in the James. If you still have the energy, walk along the Capital Trail to Rocketts Landing. You’ll pass the Great Shiplock Park along the way. This canal lock was the first of dozens that assisted in the carrying of commerce into Western Virginia. If additional walking isn’t in your future, Rocketts Landing has plenty of parking.

-At Rocketts Landing, two fine restaurants provide spectacular views of the Richmond skyline. The Boathouse is a bit more upscale with a large selection of fresh seafood. Its neighbor, Conch Republic, provides more of a casual, island-themed experience.

-If you’re still able to stay awake after three days of non-stop activity, I recommend checking out one of Richmond’s rooftop bars. Quirk Hotel on Broad and Kabana atop the Hampton Inn at Main and 7th are worth the elevator rides.

-Should you still need to try a couple more Richmond beers before returning home, Capital Ale House and Station 2 are both open until 2 AM nightly and provide impressive taplists laden with local suds.

Thanks for visiting Richmond!

Brandon Carter