in theworld,shootingfromsealevel to2426minjustover 10km. isresponsibleactivity forLaPalma’s steep cliffs andplunging ravines. It’sthesteepest island active islands;thearchipelago’slasteruptionwasin1971 inFuencaliente. That volcanic the volcanicheightsthatrundownisland’scentre. This isoneofthemostvolcanically yards andforests flourish,theirsoftbeautycontrastingwiththeharsh cragsandpeaksof delaPalmaMiguel (theisland’sfullname)thegreenest ofthearchipelago. Orchards,vine- for nowLaPalma ispristineandvery pretty indeed. – are allontheplanning charts changing andabiggerairport –newhotels, golfcourse,ports of goldenbeacheshasdiverted manytravellers’ attention elsewhere. Althoughthingsare The bananacropstillrepresents awhopping80%ofthelocaleconomy,andabsence only oneswhosuccumbtoitsattractions. reserve. holiday,althoughtrekkers are It’stheidealplaceforawalking bynomeansthe de laCaldera deTaburiente. Nowondertheentire islandwasdeclared aUnescobiosphere twisted rockformationsdefinetheviews;toserene pineforests oftheParque Nacional ofthesouth,wheredrips fromtherainforest volcanic craters canopy;tothedesertscapes and ence real, unspoilednature –fromtheverdant where forests lushvegetation ofthenorth, Perhaps more thananyotherislandinthearchipelago,LaPalma offers thechancetoexperi- Palma La 206 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ Rainfall andspringwaterRainfall are more San plentifulhere thanonanyotherisland,making itsmarkon‘TheMass tourismhasyettomake Pretty Island’,asLaPalma isnicknamed.

„ „ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 922 Take adipinthesaltwater poolsaround bootsforatrek andhiking Grabarain jacket Baskinthe sunandthebreeze underthe Explore thenaturalwonderland ofthe Peer upatthenightskyfrom Piscinas delaFajana ( p227) through theenchanted forest at Puerto Naos swaying palmsoftheblack-sand beachat Taburiente Parque NacionaldelaCaldera de stargazing los Muchachos (p224) (p223) ( p225 ), aworld-classspotfor (p227) „ POPULATION: 86,000 Los Tiles Roque de

Parque Nacional de laCaldera Taburiente Roque delos Muchachos „ AREA : 708 SQKM Puerto Naos Piscinas de Los Tiles la Fajana LA PALMA

, 207 pub- (rural La Palma Asociación de 9am-1pm & 5-7pm Walk! La Palma h casas rurales casas 922 43 30 01; www.natour % (

902 43 96 25; www.ecoturismocanarias % (

Natour , a company operating island-wide. , a company operating island-wide. Live like a local in the like Live on the island, as camping is banned Free Comfortable, quality lodging is available Comfortable, quality lodging is available by Rother Walking Guides. Walking by Rother by Discovery Walking Guides, or Walking Guides, by Discovery day-long walks with guide €29-37; Mon-Fri) include the walk around the Popular routes ) Nacional de la Caldera de Taburi- Parque p221 ), the Ruta de los Volcanes ( p224 ( ente walk through Forest’ ‘Enchanted and the most casesneed you’ll to apply in advance you before and collect your permit in person to camp. intend ACTIVITIES island- outfitting companies operate Many based you’re where of wide, so regardless has you can enjoy the activities La Palma to offer. Walking without allowing a La Palma Don’t come to its won- time to explore of chunk generous drous landscapes on foot. With 850km of trails, this is the ideal place for a walking hol- iday. Several guided hikes; companies offer the best is across the island, but some of the best op- of across the island, but some San B&B-style Hotel tions include the quirky La) in Santa the Hotel Cruz, p215 ( Telmo and ) in Barlovento p228 Romántico ( Palma ). p217 ( Nacional the Parador For informa- across the island. houses) for rent tion and reservations, contact the Turismo Rural de Brito.com; Calle Pérez 102, Santa Cruz de La Palma) nearly 100 rural houses across rents which the island. basic a few are , but there of in the rest around the island. In scattered camp sites walker, you should buy a hiking guide, such as guide, such a hiking should buy you walker, and , La Palma of Landscapes Books, lished by Sunflower ACCOMMODATION Although recom- booking ahead is always the year you can most of mended, during accommodation probably find last-minute ar- on the island. Be to book if you’re sure plan to from , ferry riving on the late or if business hours, regular outside of arrive holiday or a major you plan to come during festival (see p209 ). -trekking.com; Apartamento 4, Los Cancajos; Valentina

malvasía (in English and (in English Hiking Guide Hiking •• History LA PALMA

The sugar, shipbuilding and cochineal (a and cochineal The sugar, shipbuilding

The hiking maps covering southern, central The hiking maps covering The next century was an importantThe next century was an one for The island officially became part of the the part of The island officially became HISTORY HISTORY Spanish) is helpful too. But if you’re a serious But if you’re Spanish) is helpful too. overview, and its and northern La Palma given out for free at out for free given and northern La Palma good a in Santathe tourist office Cruz give ciones David and created by Palmero Juan José by Palmero and created ciones David & Berndt is the Freytag better Santos. Even German. and 1:30,000 map, in English map, like the 1:50,000 map published by Edi- 1:50,000 map published the map, like newspaper kiosks and bookshops. Tourist of-newspaper kiosks and bookshops. basic island map, but if out a very fices give detailed in a more invest you plan to explore, Books & Maps Books & Maps for sale at petrol stations, available are Maps INFORMATION INFORMATION 80% of the local economy, but tourism is tourism is the local economy, but 80% of slowly growing. took a downward turn, and the 20th cen- and mass emigra- poverty tury was one of tion. These days, the banana crop represents the island economy afloat for the next several centuries, but the island’s fortunes eventually bug used to make red dye) industries kept dye) industries kept red bug used to make important port in the Spanish empire, after after important port in the Spanish empire, and Antwerp. Seville transatlantic trade flourished, Santa Cruz transatlantic Santa trade flourished, Cruz the third most was considered de la Palma Canary pine provided timber for burgeon- Canary pine provided 16th century, as By the late ing shipyards. the island. Sugar, honey and sweetthe island. Sugar, honey ) p210 text, see wine; (Malmsey the boxed and abundant exports became the major never saw the Spanish mainland. never saw the Tanausú, was shipped to Spain as a slave, but to Spain as a slave, was shipped Tanausú, on board the boat and strike went on a hunger talks’. They were ambushed on the way at the talks’. They were Their leader, spot now known as El Riachuelo. to trick the Benahoaritas down into coming from their mountain stronghold for ‘peace dez de Lugo (a conquistador and, later, island dez de Lugo (a conquistador and, later, used a tribesman-turned-Christian governor) Spanish empire in 1493, after Alonso Fernán- Alonso in 1493, after Spanish empire set they set and the date), up an orderly society that eventually each divided into 12 cantons, chief. own with its arrived as early as the 5th century BCas early as the 5th century arrived (al- no hard and fast evidencethough to there’s the 15th century, this rugged land was known land this rugged the 15th century, inhabitantsas Benahoare. have could first The Long before Castilla conquered the island in the island Castilla conquered before Long lonelyplanet.com