Dear GEMüTLICHKEIT Subscriber The Travel Letter for , &

The Right Places to Avoid He is everywhere: on public tele- vision, in your local newspaper, and LEIPZIG on the shelves of your favorite book- fter the failure of the East Ger- Democratic Republic (GDR). Today, store. He’s a syndicated newspaper man communist government more than two decades after the fall columnist, a best-selling travel book A in 1989, this distinguished of the Berlin Wall, the end of the Cold author, and host of his own radio old Saxon city had a lot of catching War, and reunification, Leipzig is still show. He tweets on Twitter, regularly up to do. It found itself far behind the closing the gap. Though remnants of posts on Facebook, smiles from ev- pace set by its own communist industrial blight, Soviet- by Sharon Hudgins ery page of his hugely popular web- illustrious past. inspired architecture, and environ- site, and his package tour company Located at a major crossroads of early mental damage remain, the city is reportedly sells more than 10,000 trade routes and the junction of three making fast progress toward regain- tours at an average of more than rivers, Leipzig grew from an Imperial ing its position as one of Germany’s about $4,000 per person. “He,” of trading city in the Middle Ages to an most vibrant cities. course, is Rick Steves, the man who industrial metropolis from the 19th to Start your visit to this city on the has replaced—and far surpassed— mid-20th centuries. move by exploring its historic center. Arthur Frommer as America’s lead- Prior to World War II, it attracted Get your bearings and a stunning ing authority on European travel. artists, writers, composers, philoso- 360-degree view of the city by taking Steves operates his business out phers, and religious reformers; all of the elevator to the top of the 400-feet- of a small town just north of Seattle whom contributed to the city’s dy- high Leipzig Panorama Tower, the and, though I’ve never met him, I namic intellectual life. It hosted inter- city’s tallest building, on the Augus- suspect that beneath his relaxed, national trade fairs and was home to tusplatz. Afterward, return to ground somewhat nerdy façade, lies a re- publishing houses and cotton mills. level to begin the tour. Plan on visit- lentless drive to succeed and create, All this was stifled by the devasta- ing this “core” of Leipzig on foot, abetted of course by a first-class tion of World War II and then 40 years since most streets in the inner city are brain. I am told by a former Steves of communist rule in the German Continued on page 3… employee that he operates on less than five hours sleep. A friend who was on a flight from Europe with him a few years ago said he worked New Autumn Wine the entire 11-hour flight. arly autumn is the beginning of wine” is lower in alcohol than true Ultra-successful, driven, white the “new wine” season every wine and still has some of the sweet- males are a dime a dozen in our E year in northern Europe. In the ness of juice. The carbon diox- society but Steves doesn’t fit the wine-producing areas of Germany, ide makes it bubbly. stereotype. While single-handedly Austria, Switzerland, Alsace, and In Germany and other adjacent building a highly successful brand Italy’s South Tyrol, locals can be found wine-producing areas, most new is pretty routine in America, having merrily imbibing a cloudy, light-beige wine is grape juice that’s on its way liquid that combines the guts to put that success at risk by Sharon Hudgins to becoming white wine—hence the by actively and publicly supporting the taste of yeast cloudy-beige color of the . Oc- the legalization of marijuana is not and freshly crushed with the casionally you’ll also find new red (or (perhaps you’ve noticed that a huge sparkle of champagne and the foam of even rosé) wine, which is mauve to percentage of travelers to Europe beer. deep dusty-rose in color, produced in are over age 50…not a demographic Neuer Wein, or “new wine,” as some parts of Germany, Austria, and known for its approval of illegal the term is used in Germany, refers Italy. substance use). No doubt it’s a stance to grape juice that is in the process of Since the fermentation time for that has cost him more than a few becoming wine. It is still undergoing wines ranges from approximately two of those $4,000 per person escorted fermentation whereby yeast converts European tours that are surely his the grapes’ natural sugar into alcohol Continued on page 11… company’s top revenue source. and —and eventu- Exchange rates as of 8/17/12 Agree with his politics or not, Steves’ ally into wine. Since the fermentation 1 euro = $1.23 Swiss franc = $1.03 process is not yet complete, this “new Continued on page 2… 1 gal. diesel, Germany=$7.09 www.gemut.com August 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com cities that should be avoided, Steves pers, amazed at the prices in store win- DEAR SUBSCRIBER dows, and ever aware of the billions Continued from page 1 was verbally slapped around by Le Matin, one of the country’s leading in treasure that lie beneath my feet. books, newspaper columns, TV shows, daily newspapers: “Americans haven’t Anchoring the city’s marvel of a public and his website are reliable, instructive stopped surprising us. After bringing transportation system is the giant rail resources for the traveler planning to us fast food now they’re bringing us station, the site of which is probably visit Europe. fast travel. First they economize to Europe’s best indoor Christmas Mar- Interestingly, his work makes no find time to eat. Now they hurry up to ket. Unlike Steves, I prefer Zürich to pretense of being comprehensive. He travel.” The newspaper called Steve an Lucerne but my favorite Swiss city is doesn’t cover destinations he doesn’t “effective apostle of fast travel” and a Bern, with the covered promenades, like and, contrary to his apple-pie “ruthless American specialist of little fountains, open squares and arcades of on-screen persona, he’s not an every- assassination phrases.” It concluded its wonderful Altstadt. thing-in-Europe-is-wonderful kind of with a quote from the president of the We are also on the same page travel reporter. He kids that Bordeaux Geneva Tourism and Hotel industry about Interlaken, not much special must mean boring in some ancient lan- who said if Steves “is an influence, to see or do in the town itself but it’s guage, that Athens is “a smoggy mix it is (only) superficial...” (which begs the gateway to some of the world’s of cement, traffic noise and tourists,” the question: if he is not influential most spectacular scenery; the Bernese calls Cornwall “a minefield of tourist where’s the worry?) To his credit, Oberland. traps,” and is less than enraptured by Steves posted all this on his website. Geneva and Zürich. So it’s no surprise In the canton of Ticino, I much pre- Recently, one of his weekly col- fer Locarno to better-known Lugano. Steves is not held in high esteem by umns was entitled Don’t go: Places to Why the rich and famous flock to some in the business of European avoid in Europe. A few of them were in the fabled resort of St. Moritz has al- tourism. A few years ago the owner of our three countries. It reminded me ways been a mystery to me; I’d rather a Mürren hotel rolled her eyes when of my own list of what’s-all-the-fuss- headquarter at far more charming and I mentioned his name. She and oth- about destinations. In some cases it cheaper Pontresina, six miles away. ers in the Jungfrau region are puzzled agrees with Steves. by his enthusiasm for the tiny (pop. Continued on page 12… 120), somnolent hamlet of Gimmel- He takes a few gentle whacks at Using Gemütlichkeit wald above the Lauterbrunnen Val- the Black Forest and, while I wouldn’t • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Dis- ley. Through the power of his media, use the word “avoid,” there are many counts are often available for longer stays. Steves has turned it into a minor tour- Germany destinations I put ahead of • All hotel prices include breakfast unless it. (The Schwarzwald, however, is book- otherwise noted. ist mecca, despite the Mürren hote- • Local European telephone area codes lier’s contention that “there’s nothing ended by two lovely towns; Freiburg carry the “0” required for in-country dialing. and Baden-Baden.) To phone establishments from outside the there”—except, of course, absolute country, such as from the USA, do not dial quiet and stunning alpine beauty. While I join Steves in a yawn at the the first “0”. At about 20 billion francs per year mention of Geneva, the city’s stirring Back Issues Website for a country the size of the state of Red Cross Museum is worth a special Many back issues are available free to subscribers Maine, tourism is vital to Switzerland journey. at www.gemut.com. To access the issues, enter the and the Swiss are sensitive to criticism. We disagree about Zürich. I love password published in this space each month. Go to A few years ago, following his label- to stroll both sides of Bahnhofstrasse, http://www.gemut.com/csub.html ing of Zürich and Geneva as boring observing the street’s wealthy shop- Password: zigg

Vol. 26, No. 7 Hotel Restaurant Rating Key August GEMüTLICHKEIT 2012 The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria & Switzerland Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers:Publishers: RobertRobert H. H. & & Elizabeth Elizabeth S. S. BestorBestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor:Editor: RobertLaura H. Bestor Riedel Contributors:Writers: Doug Linton, C. Fischer,Tom Bross, R. Holliday, Margie Jim Gibson,Johnson Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Web Master: Karsten Horn,Paul S haronT. Merschdorf Hudgins Adequate 4 - 7 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Unacceptable 0 - 3 SubscriptionSubscriber Travel Dept: Services: Andy Bestor,Kurt Laura Steffans Riedel SubscriberGemut.com Webmaster:Travel Services: Andy Bestor,Charles Laura Brockman Riedel Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 10 times each year by People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 UpCountry Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail travel@ Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 gemut.com. Web site: www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $69 per year Guestrooms 30% Average Value 9 - 11 for 10 issues, $49 via e-mail. While every effort is made to provide correct information, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520

Gemütlichkeit 2 August 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com

LEIPZIG Leipzig Basics visit the Forum of Contemporary His- tory, an excellent museum with exten- Continued from page 1 Population: 532,000 sive exhibits ranging from the end of closed to cars and trucks. Bicycles are Elevation: 387 feet (118 meters) World War II to German reunification the preferred mode of transport here, Tourist Office: Augustusplatz 9 and in 1990. A related site is the Museum so watch carefully when crossing the Katarinenstrasse 8, tel. +49/341- in der Runde Ecke (Museum in the street, even in the pedestrian zone. Round Corner) in the former district 710-4260 or 4265, fax: +49/710-4271, Leipzig also has an excellent public headquarters of the dreaded East Ger- [email protected], www.leipzig.de, transportation system, with trams and man State Security Service, the so- buses that run around the ring road www.ltm-leipzig.de called “Stasi” or secret police. and beyond to the greater part of the Driving distances: Music lovers will delight in city and to many sights outside the Leipzig’s numerous sites associated center. Dresden 116 km/72 mi Berlin 190 km/118 mi with famous musicians from medi- The history of Leipzig is written Hamburg 296 km/183 mi eval to modern times. The birthplace not only in its archives but also in its Nürnberg 271 km/186 mi of Richard Wagner, Leipzig was also architecture, from the 13th-century Frankfurt 385 km/239 mi a magnet for musicians from Bach Gothic St. Thomas Church (celebrat- Munich 429 km/267 mi to Mozart, Mendelssohn, Bartholdy, ing its 1,000th anniversary this year), Tchaikovsky, Grieg, Robert and Clara to the many handsome 19th-century Nearest airport: A fast train from Schumann, Mahler, and many more. Gründerzeit buildings, the functional Leipzig Central Station runs to Start at the St. Thomas Church, found- Plattenbau pre-fab concrete construc- Leipzig/Halle Airport in Schkeuditz, ed in 1012 and home of the famous St. tions of the post-World-War II era, seven miles (12 kilometers) from the Thomas Boys Choir. Johann Sebastian and the shiny modern facade of the city center. Berlin Linien Bus also Bach was choir director from 1723 to university’s new main building, a 21st- provides service to/from the airport. 1750, and also conducted other Leipzig century glass-and-steel cathedral of church choirs during that period. The learning, on Augustusplatz. Although Rail connections: A major junction new Bach Museum, which opened Leipzig is still “a work in progress” as on north-south and east-west lines, across from the church in 2010, offers it rebuilds and renovates, the contrast with good connections from Leipzig interactive exhibits about the compos- between old and new, functional and Central Station on ICE trains to Ber- er-conductor’s life and works, as well decorative, elegant and unrefined, is lin and Munich. as an extensive music and document part of the city’s charm. archive. To delve further into Leipzig’s It’s fun to wander this historic city Public transportation: A good musical past, follow the Leipzig Mu- center, taking in whatever fortune public transportation system of sic Trails, two walking paths and one sends one’s way, from classic buildings buses and trams, with Leipzig bicycle route that connect important to cozy cafes to funky street mimes. Card discount tickets available. sites related to the city’s musical heri- Another way to approach Leipzig is tage. to pick a particular theme of personal Discounts: Leipzig Card, €8.90 for On the spacious Augustusplatz, interest and visit specific sites associ- 24 hours’ or €18.50 for 48 hours’ the Leipzig Opera House, home of ated with it. use on public transportation Europe’s third-oldest opera company, History buffs will want to start at (buses, trams) and discounts on faces the contemporary Gewandhaus the Altes Rathaus (Leipzig’s Old City museums, concerts, sightseeing Concert Hall and its world-renowned Hall), a beautiful Renaissance edifice tours, cafes, and restaurants. Sold Gewandhaus Orchestra, whose con- dating from the mid-1500s. Inside is a at the tourist offices, many hotels, ductor (at the time), Kurt Masur, was a fascinating museum of the city’s past, and online (www.leipzig-card.de). leading figure in the peaceful political including the Martin Luther Room revolution of 1989. In keeping with with artifacts relating to the great reli- Travelers interested in the recent its strong musical heritage, Leipzig gious reformer of the 1500s, who vis- past should not miss the St. Nicholas hosts numerous festivals throughout ited Leipzig several times. Outside the Church, considered the birthplace of the year, from the Leipzig Bachfest city center, the massive Monument to the peaceful protests against the com- to Wave-Gotik-Treffen, one of the the Battle of the Nations commemo- munist government of East Germany world’s largest Gothic festivals, with rates 1813 Napoleon’s defeat there in a in the 1980s. Leipzig prides itself, 150 groups playing music from medi- decisive battle fought by 600,000 sol- rightly so, for its part in helping to eval to new-wave punk. diers from all over Europe. In October bring down that repressive regime in Art connoisseurs will also find 2013 Leipzig will celebrate the 200th 1989. To learn more about what life plenty to see in Leipzig. The Museum anniversary of this famous battle, with was like in the old GDR, and how the of Fine Arts displays a collection of historical reenactments by thousands peaceful revolution changed every paintings, drawings, and sculptures of people dressed in period costumes. Germans’ world that year, be sure to by Lucas Cranach, Peter Paul Rubens,

Gemütlichkeit 3 August 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Neo Rauch, Max Beckmann, and oth- in his drama, Faust? After that, get easy walking distance of the main ers. The recently restored GRASSI away from the interiors of the mind sights, this luxurious modern hotel oc- Museum complex houses three dif- by wandering through the greenery cupies a historic building constructed ferent collections: Applied Arts and of Zoo Leipzig, just beyond the busy in 1908-09. Completely renovated Crafts, Ethnology, and Musical In- city center, with its 850 species of ani- inside, the Handelshof is a blend of struments. For a different art experi- mals, many of them living in natural ultramodern decor within the sturdy ence, head to the former industrial habitats. A new attraction at the zoo is stone edifice. district of Lindenau in the southwest- the recently opened Gondwanaland, In the glass-covered atrium-court- ern part of the city. The big attrac- an enclosed rain forest with dozens of yard, the futuristic bar surrounded by tion here is the Spinnerei, a group of tropical plants and exotic animals from stone archways takes center stage. One contemporary art galleries and artists’ three continents. of the arches leads to the Brasserie Le workshops inside a huge red-brick In addition to the always lively Grand, featuring French-Mediterra- cotton mill, once the largest factory of university district around the Mori- nean food and a selection of more than its kind in continental Europe. Nearby, tzbastei, Leipzig’s nightlife centers 170 wines. Weekdays, the restaurant’s the Plagwitz district is another indus- on two main areas. Just off the Markt- €12.50 lunch menu is a good bargain. trial area where factories and former platz, the Barfussgässchen is a block- Serious enophiles will enjoy the wine workers’ quarters are being restored or long pedestrian street of restaurants tastings offered in the brasserie’s renovated as art galleries, restaurants, and sidewalk cafes, now mainly serv- stone-floored wine cellar. clubs, and attractive apartments for ing the tourist trade. For the more The Handelshof offers 163 superior hip young families. fun, earthy side of Leipzig, head and deluxe rooms, 14 suites, a spa, Literary types will want to visit south from the ring road to the Karl- fitness center, concierge service, and the Schiller House, home of the 18th- Liebknecht-Strasse, with its blocks of valet parking. Since guestrooms had to century German poet, philosopher, restaurants, cafes, and taverns featur- fit the original structure of the build- historian, and playwright, best-known ing food and drink from Turkey, Spain, ing, each is different. All are decorated for his “Ode to Joy” sung in the final Mexico, Russia, Ireland, the Czech Re- in a contemporary style with neutral, movement of Beethoven’s 9th Sym- public, , and yes, even Germany. soothing colors, upscale furnishings phony. And who could visit Leipzig During the daytime, this is a lively arts and the amenities one expects in a without dining at Auerbachs Keller, district, too, reminiscent of 1960s hip- hotel of this category, including air the historic tavern where Johann pie America. Regardless where your conditioning. Great location, pleasing Wolfgang von Goethe set a key scene wanderings take you, Leipzig never design, and friendly staff all add up to ceases to surprise with its juxtaposi- an Editor’s Choice rating for this new Key Websites for the Traveler tion of past and present. • www.gemut.com Gateway site for hotel. travelers to Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, hotel bookings, travel tips, Contact: Steigenberger Grandhotel and past issues (free access to back issues for HOTELS Handelshof, Salzgässchen 6, 04109 subscribers; see log-on info on page 2). Leipzig, tel. +49/341-350-5810, fax In a city that has a long tradition • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin +49/341-350-581-888, leipzig@stei- database of hotels and restaurants, plus great of hosting trade fairs and business genberger.de, www.leipzig.steigen- interactive trip planning tools conferences, Leipzig’s hotel rates vary • www.travelessentials.com Guide- berger.com depending on the season, day of the books, maps, travel accessories, luggage, all Daily rates: Superior rooms, from at 10 percent off for subscribers. Use dis- week, and room availability. During €139; deluxe rooms from €169; suites count code gemut2010. trade fairs, hotels are usually booked from €259, presidential suite €2,500. • maps.google.com Amazing map re- far in advance, and prices can double source. Driving & walking. Zoom in-out. Great Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 17/20 detail city & country. Satellite & terrain views. the usual rack rate. Value ratings for • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/ the following hotels are only approxi- Hotel Fürstenhof en German rail website, with train schedules mate, since the price for any particular throughout Europe, as well as Germany. Step back into Old-World elegance room can fluctuate considerably, and at Hotel Fürstenhof, housed in a neo- • www.sbb.ch/en/ Swiss and Euro- may not even include breakfast. It all pean rail schedules classical palace built in 1770, depends on the deal available at the ’s • www.ski-europe.com Top Web re- then converted to a hotel in ditor source for skiers with much info on Alpine resorts time of booking. E 1889, and luxuriously refur- Choice • www.myswitzerland.com Website bished in 1993 as a member of the of Switzerland’s national tourist authority Steigenberger Grandhotel Starwood Luxury Collection group. • www.germany-tourism.de Ger- Handelshof many’s national tourist authority Located on the ring road that encircles A new member of the reliable the historic city center, the five-star- • www.austria.info/us Austria’s national tourist authority Steigenberger chain is the five- ’s rated property features an attractive • www.historicgermany.com Web- star Grandhotel Handelshof, Editor hoice ground floor with gilded archways, site for an alliance of historic German cities C opened in 2011. Conveniently marble floors, lofty ceilings, chande- • www.thetravelinsider.info Info on elec- located in the old city center, within tronics for travelers — cell phones, computers, etc. liers, and tall windows.

Gemütlichkeit 4 August 2012 Book European Travel Book Hotels Online TravelTRAVEL MMARTArT European Auto Rental Travel shoppingGermany is easy at www.gemut.com You can now book hotels, purchase rail www.gemut.com www.gemut.comwww.gemut.com Car 1-week xtra day Opelpasses Corsa and point-to-point$151 rail tickets,$22 buy . A website for travelers to Three-star-plus hotels from: A website for travelers to VWtravel Golf insurance,(w/upgrade*) and$167 request quotes$24 on GermanicGermanic Europe Europe Opeltransatlantic Astra (Auto) airline $231tickets and$33 rental Baden-Baden ...... €71 VWcars. Passat Secure, (w/upgrade*) one-stop $191 European $27 travel Berlin ...... €49 Book European Travel MBZshopping C180/GPS at www.gemut.com (Auto) $295 $42 Frankfurt Airport ...... €53 Hotell Schloss hl Berg Travel shopping is easy at www.gemut. Audi A4/GPS $271 $39 Garmisch-Partenkirchen ...... €75 • Just South of Munich on Beautiful Starnberg Lake MBZ C180 (w/upgrade*) $229 $33 Munich ...... €41 com. You can now book hotels, purchase Your Berlin Headquarters • Beautiful Rooms with Terrace, Full Baths, Lake View BMW 3 (auto/GPS) $330 $47 Munich Airport...... €59 rail passes and point-to-point rail tickets, MBZ E200 (Auto/GPS) $607 $87 • Easy Access to Oktoberfest Wiesbaden...... €58 buy travel insurance, and request quotes VWHotel Touran Art Nouveau$293 $42 • Immediate Availability & Booking at Our USA Office Graz...... €59 on transatlantic airline tickets and rental VW Golf✴☛✭❊◗◗�✡�✼❊�❑❘❚�❊�❘��❑�❋❙�❙❙❍ Wagon $220 $31 HotelSalzburg magnificently ...... situated€ on49 Lakeside cars. Secure, one-stop European travel VW❘�❊�◗❊❘�❏�❘���❙❚�❊❘❍�◗❊����❊❊❘✒ Passat Wagon $263 $37 surroundedSteyr ...... by elegant villas, manor€68 houses, shopping at www.gemut.com Audi✶�❘�❙❘� A4 SW (GPS)Gemütlichkeit $430 ❏❙�✕✔✠�❍��❙❘ $61 castles,Vienna and ...... Germany's most€34 beautiful MBZ E200 SW (Auto/GPS)✮❍�❙☛���❙���✒ $733 $105 countryside.Vienna Airport Friendly, ...... English-speaking€50 staff. Volvo V70 SW (GPS) $441 $63 Moderate affordable rates include sumptuous Your Berlin Headquarters VW Tel.Sharan 888-517-4342, 7-pass Fax$399 +49.30.32774440 $57 buffetGrindelwald breakfast,...... tax and service.CHF100 Free VW MinibusEmail: [email protected] 9-pass $661 $94 bicycles,Interlaken large...... rooms with privateCHF120 outside Hotel Art Nouveau terraces.Lucerne Complimentary ...... beerCHF115 or wine with web: Austriawww.hotelartnouveau.de lunchZürich or dinner...... orders in ourCHF115 Lakeside K'Damm & Savignyplatz neighborhood Fiat Punto $262 $37 DiningZürich Room Airport and...... Pub. CHF149 Ask about Many fine shops & small restaurants Gemütlichkeit senior citizen rebate. Mention Gemütlichkeit for 10% discount FordEuropean Focus Auto$285 Rental$41 VW Golf (Auto) $550 $79 Rapid Rail into Munich every 20 minutes. Editor's choice Germany Mercedes(Partial B-Class Vehicle $361 List)$52 Lake cruiseGemütlichkeit's ships stop at our dock, close to Tel.+49.30.3277440, Fax +49.30.32774440 Bavarian Castles and Austria. SkodaCar Octavia $4241-week $61xtra day Trip Planning & Email: [email protected] MercedesOpel Corsa C-Class with air$779$204 $111 $29 BookingUSA Reservations Service Office web: www.hotelartnouveau.de NissanVW Golf SUV (w/upgrade*) $509$205 $73 $29 Toll Free: 866-833-1251 FordOpel Focus Astra Wagon (Auto) $370$344 $53 $48 • Hotel Bookings BOOK NOW FOR OKTOBERFEST LowFall season airfares air to to Europe Europe... SkodaVW Octavia Passat Wagon (w/upgrade*) $458$246 $65 $35 Renault Traffic 9-Pass $933 $133 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations LowestOct. 26-Dec. Fares 10, - DecBest . 25-Mar. Service 25 VW800-521-6722 Passat (Auto) $363 $52 • BackroadsGem Itinerariesütlichkeit's AudiSwitzerland A4 $343 $49 Trip Planning & BestConsolidator fares on Lufthansa, Delta,Air FaresUnited, British OpelMBZ Cor C180sa (w/upgrade*)$271$267 $39 $38 • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours Air, USAir, Air Berlin, Condor, Swiss, etc. Booking Service Best fares on Lufthansa, American, Delta, United, OpelMBZ Astra C180 (auto/GPS)$313$378 $45 $54 FordMBZ Focus E200 (Auto/GPS)(Auto) $456$473 $65 $68 Ask about our individually AtlantaBritish...... Air, LTU, Northwest, Swiss, etc.$917 •tailored Hotel Bookings 14-day “Great Little OpelVW Vectra Touran $512$327 $73 $47 • Hotel/Restaurant Recommendations BostonAtlanta...... $845 $411 Hotels & Restaurants of VWVW Golf Golf Plus SW (Auto) $622 $268 $89 $38 • Backroads Itineraries ChicagoBoston...... $961 $356 Germany” auto tours FordVW C-Max Passat Wagon SW $541 $319 $77 $46 • Self-Guided Auto/Rail Tours DallasChicago...... $1017 $412 VW Golf Wagon $427 $61 Dallas ...... $406 Audi A4 SW (GPS) $343 $49 Denver...... $1015 Skoda Octavia SW (auto) $632 $90 800-521-6722800-521-6722 Denver ...... $434 FordBMW Galaxy 530 VanSW (Auto/GPS)$1310$586 $187 $84 Los Angeles...... $963 Los Angeles ...... $462 RenaultVolvo Espace V70 VanSW (auto) (GPS) $1376$394 $197 $56 Miami...... $964 VW Sharan 7-pass $637 $91 Miami ...... $412 • Upgrades through 10/31/2012. Discounts for longer NewNew York York...... $847 $312 rentalsVW. AllMinibus rates quoted 9-pass in this ad $637 are subject to $91 OrlandoOrlando...... $999 $412 change• Upgrades without through notice 10/31/09.but lock-in Discounts at booking. for longer Rates rent- basedals. on All one-week rates quoted booking. in this Ratesad are includeas of 8/9/09, Value subject SeattleSeattle...... $1049 $462 to change without notice but lock-in at booking. Rates Addedbased Tax, on unlimited one-week mileage,booking . Rates3rd party include liability unlimited ins. mile- SanSan Francisco Francisco...... $1027 $462 but doage, not 3rd include party liability CDW, theft ins. butinsurance, do not Include road tax, vaT, CDW, WashingtonWashington DC DC...... $974$362 andtheft airport insurance, fees. road tax, and airport fees. BusinessBusiness Class Class ...... $2700 $2700 to $4000$5000 BestBest Current Current Deal Deal Fares availableavailable from from all all U.S. U.S. gateways gateways. • Through• Through October October 31, 2012, 31, drivedrive aa Fullsize Fullsize IMPORTANT:IMPORTANT: Fares Fares are roundare round trip to trip Germany to Germany for MercedesMercedes C200 C200 (or insimilar) germany in germany for a weekfor a for formid-week high-season travel travel and and do include not include tax & tax, fuel fees, & fuel $317,week including for $234, 19% including VAT. two-weeks 19% VAT is $570. surchargesurcharge.. Call Call for for a to-the-pennya to-the-penny quote quote or get or get an e-mailan quote email at quote www.gemut.com at www.gemut.com Cars also also available available in most in most 800.521.6722 EuropeanEuropean countries countries 800.521.6722 800-521-6722 GEMÜTLICHKEIT Advertising Supplement I-1 September 2009 The Lock the TSA Can’t Lose! NEW Lightweight TSA-Approved , our Triple Security & Expandable Luggage Cable Lock not only locks your bag tight - with the longer of its two cables, Eagle Creek Ease - It’s the latest from it protects itself from clumsy TSA agents the greatest & includes both two-wheeled by locking TO your bag. It’s also great and four-wheeled uprights, rolling for securing luggage to stationary objects! duffels, a rolling tote, garment bags, a rolling brief case, and more - $12.56 (Reg.$13.95) all with Eagle Creek’s amazing “No Matter What” Warranty.

$112.50 - $405 (Reg. $125- $450) Finally, a Leak-Proof Protect Your Valuables Travel Bottle! The CitySafe 200 travel purse offers a host of safety Squeezable and packable, features, including: 95 GoToob travel bottles $62. Slash-proof strap (Reg. $69.95) are easy to fill and & side panels. come in three carry-on approved sizes. Tamper-proof $6.25 - $8.55 zipper. (Reg. $6.95 - $9.50) Snatch-proof anchor clip. Three packs starting at $16.16 (Reg. $17.95) 1.25 oz 2 oz 3 oz Plus, all the internal organization you’ll need for cameras, cell phones, umbrellas, guide books and more!. Lost in Europe? Not With A Michelin Map! Prevent Leg Swelling & Producing quality maps and Discomfort guide books since 1900, Michelin’s detail and accuracy make these TravelSox offer comfortable, maps excellent for driving the yet firm compression to back roads of Europe. protect against blood clots and pain on long flights. $11.65 (Reg. $12.95) $26.95 (Reg. $29.95) Wash Your Clothes Anywhere! Stop Electronic Handy packets ID Theft! of Woolite laundry detergent so you can have clean clothes Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) chips are for the whole trip! becoming more commonplace in credit cards (10 pack) and passports. Our collection of RFID Blocking wallets, pouches, passport covers and organizers

36 block RFID signals and keep your personal info $5. safe. (Reg. $5.95) $5.35 - $26.99 (Reg. $5.95 - $29.99) Get the Latest Rail Prices at Gemut.com Austria-Czech Pass Germany-France Pass buying rail passes in 2012 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl Because of currency fluctuation, pass 4 days in 2 months $264 $225 $173 4 days in 2 months $429 $388 $388 $351 $301 Avg Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 36 $ 30 $ 23 5 days in 2 months $475 $428 $428 $386 $332 prices change frequently. Prices listed 6 days in 2 months $520 $469 $469 $416 $367 CZECH-GERMANY Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth 8 days in 2 months $609 $550 $550 $478 $429 here are approximations. At www. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 10 days in 2 months $699 $631 $631 $550 $496 5 days in 2 months $415 $342 $340 $293 $293 gemut.raileuorpe.com you can se- 6 days in 2 months $463 $380 $378 $324 $324 Germany-Switzerland Pass curely buy the listed passes, as well as 8 days in 2 months $537 $447 $445 $388 $388 1 Adult Saver* Youth 10 days in 2 months $618 $517 $515 $450 $450 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl many others, plus book individual tick- 5 days in 2 months $453 $386 $318 EUROPEAN EAST PASS 6 days in 2 months $499 $424 $351 ets. Or, for current prices, and to place Austria, , , Poland, 8 days in 2 months $588 $504 $415 5 days in 1 month $315 (1Cl) $217 (2Cl) 10 days in 2 months $680 $582 $478 a rail pass order, call 800-521-6722x3. Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $38 $32 ITALY Rail Pass 1 Adult Saver* Youth We also book city-to-city tickets by FRANCE RAlL PASS Adults Senior Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 3 days in 2 months $279 $228 $239 $196 $186 phone but charge a service fee. For Eu- 3 days in 1 month $291 $235 $254 $209 $177 Avg Extra Rail Day $33 $27 $28 $23 $22 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 43 $37 $37 $ 31 $27 ropean timetables go to www.bahn.de. Austria-Switzerland Pass FRANCE SAVER PASS 2 Adults* Adults Saver* Youth EURAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 3 days in 1 month $248 $202 4 days in 2 months $404 $344 $284 15 consecutive days $750 $638 $489 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 37 $ 31 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 44 $38 $31 21 consecutive days $967 $823 $630 1 month $1191 $1014 $776 FRANCE-ITALY PASS SWISS SAVERPASS & SWISS PASS 2 months $1680 $1429 $1094 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 3 months $2073 $1763 $1349 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 4 days in 2 months $401 $343 $343 $293 $261 Class Class Class Class Class Class EURAIL FLEXIPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth 5 days in 2 months $447 $382 $382 $324 $293 4 consec. days $493 $308 $417 $262 $370 $231 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 6 days in 2 months $493 $420 $420 $356 $321 8 consec. days $711 $445 $604 $377 $533 $334 10 days in 2 months $885 $753 $576 7 days in 2 months $540 $461 $461 $393 $351 15 consec. days $862 $538 $732 $458 $647 $404 15 days in 2 months $1161 $988 $756 8 days in 2 months $590 $501 $501 $426 $382 22 consec. days $993 $620 $844 $529 $744 $466 EURAIL SELECTPASS 9 days in 2 months $634 $539 $539 $458 $413 1 month $1093 $683 $930 $581 $821 $513 10 days in 2 months $680 $578 $578 $491 $443 3 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth SWISS SAVER FLEXIPASS & SWISS FLEXIPASS 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. France-Switzerland Pass 2 or more Adults* 1 Adult 5 days in 2 months $475 $404 $310 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1st 2nd 1st 2nd 6 days in 2 months $524 $447 $342 1st Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl Class Class Class Class 8 days in 2 months $620 $527 $404 4 days in 2 months $426 $363 $301 3 days in 1 month $399 $251 $470 $294 10 days in 2 months $718 $611 $468 Avg. Extra Rail Day (6 max.) $ 46 $40 $33 4 days in 1 month $486 $303 $570 $356 GERMAN RAILPASS 5 days in 1 month $561 $351 $659 $412 4 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 6 days in 1 month $637 $398 $751 $469 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1 Adult Youth Twin Pass* 5 days in 2 months $531 $452 $347 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. SWISS CARD 6 days in 2 months $580 $494 $378 3 days in 1 month $344 $263 $210 $265 $194 1 month - 1 round trip $319 (1-Cl) $216 (2-Cl) 8 days in 2 months $651 $575 $440 Avg. Extra Rail Day (7) $ 42 $28 $15 $29 $21 plus 50% discount on rail tickets 10 days in 2 months $772 $657 $503 AUSTRIA-Germany Pass SWISS TRANSFER TICKET 5 adjoining countries 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 Adult Saver* Youth 1 month - 1 round trip $241 (1-Cl) $151 (2-Cl) 1st Cl. 1st Cl. 2nd Cl. 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl (*Prices per person, based on two or more traveling together at all 5 days in 2 months $585 $498 $381 5 days in 2 months $424 $366 $366 $312 $313 6 days in 2 months $634 $539 $414 times. **Junior & Youth fares apply only to passengers under 26. 6 days in 2 months $467 $399 $399 $343 $343 Where senior fares are offered, 60 is qualifying age. Children 4-11 pay 8 days in 2 months $731 $622 $476 8 days in 2 months $556 $475 $475 $409 $410 10 days in 2 months $824 $701 $537 10 days in 2 months $648 $551 $551 $475 $474 half the adult fare including Saverpass fares except Switzerland where 15 days in 2 months $1045 $889 $681 kids under 16 travel free with a parent.) Germany-Benelux Pass AUSTRIAN RAILPASS 1 Adult Saver* Youth IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT PRICES: The US dollar prices on this page are 1st Cl 2nd Cl Child 1st Child 2nd 1st Cl 2nd Cl 1st Cl 2nd Cl 2nd Cl based on the euro and are subject to change with currency fluctuation. Pass 3 days in 1 month $236 $166 $120 $85 5 days in 1 month $445 $336 $336 $272 $272 orders will be processed in dollars, but amounts charged may vary from Avg Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $27 $19 $14 $9 Avg. Extra Rail Day (5 max.) $46 $35 $36 $27 $27 prices shown on this page. Product # Days 1st/2nd Class Circle one Passenger Name (First and Last as on Passport) Country of Residence Price

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Mr./Mrs.

Special Considerations (Specify countries for countries Method of Payment (Visa MC AmEx Diners) chosen for Selectpass, additional rail days, etc.) Card #:______Exp. Date______Est. total amount: $______Name ______TERMS & CONDITIONS: Prices on this page sub- Order online at ject to change. Canceled orders refunded 85% of Street______total charge. Handling fee for cancels is $25. City______State____ Zip______gemut.raileuorpe.com Fax form to 541-488-8468 or mail to: 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520 Daytime Phone______U.S. Depart. Date______or phone 800-521-6722 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com Cruising through Europe GemütlichkeitGemütlichkeit Special Special Offer Offer SubscriberSubscriber DiscountsDiscounts On 2012-13  EuropeanEuropean River Holiday Cruises River Cruises ChooseChoose from dozens ofof itinerariesitineraries and and sailings sailings. Here Here are are just just a few:a few: CENCHANTINGlassic Christmas DANUBE Markets 8 daysdays, NürnbergBudapest to to Frankfurt. Passau From From $2199* DDANUBEanube DISCOVERYHoliday Markets 8 daysdays, BudapestVienna to to Nürnberg Passau. From From $2199*   EurRHINEop DISCOVERYean Holiday Markets 8 daysdays, ViennaNürnberg to Nürnberg. to Basel FromFrom $2199*   Early booking GrCASTLESand cALONGhrist THEmas RHINE & New Year’s cruidiscountsse as much 13 days days, Basel Nürnberg to Amsterdam to Budapest. From From $3999 as $900 per PaLEGENDARYrisian W RHINEinter & H MOSELoliday couple 8 days, days Paris Amsterdam to Paris. Fromto Basel $1999 From  RhEUROPEANine Hol JEWELSiday Markets  days Buapest to Amsterdam From   Additional Discounts 8 days, Paris to Paris. From $2249* for Gemut Readers EUROPEAN SERERANDE Big Savings for Early Booking These 2013 Cruises  days Vienna to Amsterdam From  LEASTERNegenda EUROPEry Rhin EXPLORERe & Mosel 13 daysdays, ViennaAmsterdam to Bucharest to Basel. From From $4199**   EurPARISo p&ea EUROPEANn Seren RIVERade ROMANCE 13 days days, Paris Vienna to toNürnberg Amsterdam. From From   $4399** Some 2 for 1 deals on GrPARISan &d THEDANUB HEARTE & OF PR EUROPEAGUE bookings prior to 17 daysdays, ParisPrague to to Vienna Belgrade. From From  $5899** GRAND EUROPEAN DISCOVERY August 31, 2009 Gran ddays Eur Baselop toea Viennan Riv Fromer Voyage 27 days, Amsterdam to Istanbul. From $9299*** GRAND EUROPEAN SERERANDE Gra nd days Eur Amsterdamopean toH IBucharestGHLIGH FromTS   22 days, Belgrade to Basel. From $7899*** GRAND EUROPEAN EXPLORER (* $300 days per couple Basel discount to Bucharest in select categories From if paid in full at the time of booking- Expires August 31) (** $1600 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires October 31) (*** $2000 per couple in select categories if paid in full at the time of booking - Expires October 31) When you sail with Uniworld When you sail with Uniworld • Shore excursions included • Email available  stay in touch • Excursions included • Email available - stay in touch • Nonsmoking ships • Small ship ambiance ( to  guests) • Non-smoking ships • Small ship ambiance (100 to 138 guests) • English language only • Hotelstyle beds • English language only • Hotel-style beds • Unpack only once • Terry cloth robes • Unpack only once • Terrycloth robes • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Most deluxe ships in Europe • Satellite TV in cabins • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center • Europe’s youngest fleet • Fitness Center

ForFor free free video catalog and catalogor to book or to space book phonespace phoneGemütlichkeit Gemütlichkeit ® 800-521-6722   x 2press option  Gemütlichkeit 8 August 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com The hotel’s Restaurant Villiers categories) all decorated in a contem- Victor’s Residenz-Hotel exudes the ambience of an 18th- porary, somewhat whimsical style This four-star-property is termed a century salon. Degustation menus of focusing on musical themes. Room “residence hotel” because it belongs to four to seven courses range from €62 categories are named after musical a group of 12 hotels in Germany that to €95, more with matching wines forms (fugue, sonata, etc.). also provide long-term living facili- included. The Wintergarten Bar A cozy wine bar in the front will ties for the elderly in a wing separate continues the opulent theme and is a entice you explore the extensive wine from travelers’ rooms. Victor’s is in a nice place to relax with a cocktail or list—and stay longer to sample the beautiful 1911 Jugendstil building with glass of Sekt; the bar also serves cof- Mediterranean menu, too. Very good a modern extension at the back. The fee and tea specialties, house-made location and friendly staff. lobby features sinuous Art Nouveau cakes, and petits fours. The Vino- Contact: Arcona Living Bach 14, paintings, heavy red velvet drapes, red theque 1770 is a comfortable, mod- Thomaskirchhof 13/14, 04109 Leipzig, plush furniture, and marble floors. The ern wine bar offering a choice of 80 tel. +49/341-496-140, fax +49/341- hotel is strategically located for the open wines from around the world, 49-614-600, [email protected], visitor, very near the main train station accompanied by Italian antipasti, www.bach14.arcona.de. and the major bus and tram lines, on Spanish hams, and French cheeses. Daily Rates: €89-109, breakfast €17 the busy ring road encircling the city. Be sure to at least take a peek into the (Ask for a room on the quietest side.) richly decorated Serpentine Salon, per person. The 101 rooms (including four built in 1865, its walls lined with pre- Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 suites) are comfortable and attractively cious green serpentine stone, known Pentahotel Leipzig decorated, but not air-conditioned. as “the marble of the Saxon kings.” The new Penta chain of “design Standard rooms in the older building The Fürstenhof has 92 rooms (17 hotels” bills itself as a group of laid- are spacious, with high ceilings and singles and 75 doubles, classified back, “lifestyle hotels” all of which tall windows overlooking the street. as Classic, Deluxe, Grand Deluxe, share a similar philosophy and style. Many in the newer building have a Suites, and Salons), all well appoint- The four-star-rated Leipzig member view to the terrace in back. The hotel ed in a traditional, unpretentious of this group is a 365-room glass- also features a restaurant with Medi- style. Every room features green and-steel structure tucked into quiet terranean cuisine, a snug Bavarian marble bathrooms, air conditioning, residential area just outside the old beer Stube, and a Belle Epoque restau- wi-fi, mini-bar, and safe. The hotel’s city center. The decor of the public rant where breakfast is served. basement houses a Mediterranean- areas is a mix of traditional and con- A stay here may be reminiscent of styled fitness area, with swimming temporary, whereas the rooms them- the grand railroad hotels of a century pool, gym, sauna, spa, and even a selves are functional-modern, but ago. bar. rather small with upscale marble- Contact: Victor’s Residenz-Hotel Contact: Hotel Fürstenhof, Tro- and-granite bathrooms. Leipzig, Georgiring 13, 04103 Leipzig, endlinring 8, 01405 Leipzig, tel. For those who can live with the tel. +49/341-6866-0, fax +49/341-6866- +49/341-1400, fax +49/341-140-3707, combination of a small hotel room, 899, [email protected], www. fuerstenhofleipzig@luxurycollection. designed mainly for sleeping, and victors.de. com, www.hotelfuerstenhofleipzig. use public areas for relaxing, this Daily Rates: Singles €105-305, doubles com. could be a good choice. €130-327, suites are €175-352 Daily Rates: Classic rooms (for two The Penta includes a pool, fitness persons) from €150; deluxe from €170; Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 area, and sauna, as well as a woody- grand deluxe from €190; and suites leathery Club Lounge (€40/room €270 to €810 (four to six persons). extra) where you might feel like RESTAURANTS Rating: Quality 17/20, Value 17/20 you’re in an exclusive London men’s Saxon food has a reputation of Arcona Living Bach 14 club (ladies welcome, too). sitting heavily on the stomach. But This new hotel is a modern guest- Friendly, professional staff. there are many good restaurants in house within a complex of build- Contact: Pentahotel Leipzig, Grosser Leipzig that serve lighter, more mod- ings across from the St. Thomas Brockhaus 3, 04103 Leipzig, tel. ern fare that poses less of a threat to Church and the Bach Monument. It +49/341-129-20, fax +49/341-1292-800, the waistline. encompasses a Renaissance house, [email protected], www. With two Michelin stars and a one of the oldest in the city, a newer pentahotels.com/de/leipzig. superb view over the city, Restaurant building erected around 1900, and Daily rates: Singles and doubles from Falco on the 27th floor of theWestin a recently constructed one on the €75, junior suites from €105. Breakfast Hotel offers ultra-modern food at back side of the hotel overlooking is €19 per person, and underground two-star prices in a sleek, cool setting. a garden. It opened in 2011 with 52 parking is €14. In addition to à la carte offerings, apartments and rooms (in several Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 15/20 there are also set menus at €144 for five courses and €179 for seven cours- Gemütlichkeit 9 August 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com es (Gerberstrasse 15, tel. +49/341-988- lasch, a caraway-flavored liquor that potato dumplings, to medallions of 2728, www.falco-leipzig.de). is also served ice cold as a digestif venison in port wine sauce with her- Located inside Leipzig’s famous after meals. bed apricots and wild mushrooms Gewandhaus Concert Hall, the And finally, stop for a coffee (a (€24.90). For less substantial dishes, Michelin one-star Stadtpfeiffer is an- selection of many kinds) at Zum Ara- there’s a good selection of salads and other contemporary restaurant with bischen Coffe Baum, one of the old- vegetarian plates. Save room for des- artistically plated food to match. Go est continually operating coffeehous- sert: Leipziger Quarkkäulchen, cheese all out with the €106 six-course menu es in Europe and for centuries known pancakes with cinnamon ice cream featuring several of the restaurant’s as a hangout for artists, writers, and and vanilla- sauce, a Saxon well known specialties (Augustus- musicians. The building’s four floors specialty (€5.90). platz 8, tel. +49/341-217-8920, www. also house a small restaurant and The restaurant also offers a special stadtpfeiffer.de). coffee museum (Kleine Fleischergasse fixed-price meal (braised meat, red For more familiar regional fare, 4, tel. +49/341-961-0060, www.coffe- cabbage, and potato dumplings) on well prepared and reasonably priced, baum.de). weekdays for €9.80 and in the eve- try the atmospheric Restaurant nings and on weekends for €12.90. Auerbachs Keller Ratskeller der Stadt Leipzig, in the Contact: Auerbachs Keller, Mädler- massive 1905 New Town Hall (Lot- For its combination of Old World Passage, Grimmaische Strasse 2 terstrasse 1, tel. +49/341-123-4567, atmosphere, literary and historical – 4, 04109 Leipzig, tel. +49/341-216- www.ratskeller-leipzig.de). connections, good food, and ’s 100, fax +49/341-216-1011, info@ good , Auerbachs has Editor auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de, www. Look for these local specialties hoice been a “must do” for every C on restaurant menus and at auerbachs-keller-leipzig.de. visitor to Leipzig for several centu- shops: Rating: Quality 16/20, Value 16/20 ries. Started in 1525 as a secret wine • Leipziger Allerlei, a mixed veg- bar for students, the Auerbachs Keller Restaurant Thüringerhof etable dish of cooked carrots, turnips, has grown into a major restaurant The Restaurant Thüringerhof cauliflower, asparagus, green peas, serving hundreds of guests in several claims to be “the oldest traditional and morel mushrooms mixed with historic dining rooms with massive Gastätte in Leipzig” and can trace egg dumplings, covered with white pillars, vaulted ceilings, and colorful its roots to 1454. It was a popular sauce, and garnished with crayfish. frescoes. meeting place of Leipzig luminar- • Bachthaler, a special pastry, and Located beneath the Mädler- ies including Martin Luther, Goethe Bachpfeiffen, a rich confection, both Passage, one of the 22 covered pas- and the composer, Robert Schumann. concocted for the 250th anniversary sageways (shopping arcades) con- Prior to World War II it could seat of the death of Johann Sebastian necting buildings in the central city, 1,200 guests in 17 rooms, but wartime Bach. the entrances to the restaurant are bombing and subsequent repairs led • Leipzig Räbchen (Leipzig Raven), marked by two large bronze statues, to its total reconstruction as the “new ball-shaped filled with a one of Doktor Faust and Mephis- old Thüringerhof” that reopened in marzipan-stuffed prune, deep-fried, topheles (the Devil), and another of 1996. rolled in cinnamon-sugar, and served Mephistopheles and the students he Today’s customers are served by hot. has bewitched, from Goethe’s famous a friendly staff in a pleasant, tradi- play, Faust. Goethe was a regular at • Leipziger Lerche (Leipzig Larks), tional-style dining room with vaulted the Auerbachs Keller when he was sweet, almond-paste-filled , ceilings, butcher-block tables, and a Leipzig student from 1765 to 1768. with a whole cherry inside (said to dark wood furniture. This is the place Later, a scene in the play was set in represent the lark’s heart). These for German comfort food. The menu the tavern. pastries were supposedly created in features the food of Saxony, well pre- the 19th century to replace lark-filled The menu is known for its tradi- pared and served in large portions meat pies, after the hunting of song- tional dishes typical of the region. at reasonable prices. The fixed-price birds was officially banned. Soups are priced from €3.90-4.70 “Thüringerhof Menu” offers three and the Saxon onion soup (€4.30) is courses of classic Saxon dishes for • Gose, Leipzig’s special top- a good way to start. Other starters €18.50: potato soup with sausages; fermented, unfiltered wheat beer range from the house-made meat ter- Sauerbraten (braised soured beef in a flavored with salt and coriander. rine (€7.90) to hot beef tartare based rich sauce) with apple-seasoned red Drink it fresh, on tap, at the Gasthaus on a traditional recipe from 1876 cabbage and very good Thüringer & Gosebrauerei Bayerische-Bahnhof (€12.50). potato dumplings; and a dessert of (Bayerischer Platz 1, tel. +49/341-124- red berry pudding with vanilla sauce Meat and fish main dishes are 5760, www.bayerischer-bahnhof.de). and whipped cream. À la carte main priced form €12.9 for the excellent • Adventurous types might try dishes are priced from €8.80 to €17.10. Rinderrouladen (stuffed beef rolls) a Regenschirm (Umbrella), which is a A copiously portioned “Seniors’ with braised red cabbage and Saxon Gose beer with a shot of Leipzig Al- dish” at €8.90 turned out to be more Gemütlichkeit 10 August 2012 “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com www.gemut.com than one person could manage: a rich of cuisines, from German to Italian to white,” a name referring to the wine’s pork goulash with creamed mush- South and East Asian dishes. Begin light beige color. This is very common rooms and large potato dumplings, with an appetizer of smoked salmon name for new white wine in Germany, garnished with fresh red radish slices with cucumber aspic, honey-mustard especially in the Rhineland-Pfalz and arugula. The half-liters of beer at panna cotta, and sour cream, or per- region. In some places it refers spe- €3.60 were a good deal, too. haps the soft cheese terrine with to- cifically to grape juice in mid- to later Contact: Thüringerhof zu Leipzig, mato aspic, black olives and crostini stages of fermentation when the liquid Burgstrasse 19, 04109 Leipzig, tel. (both €9.80). Main dishes include bison is less sweet. +49/341-994-4999, fax +49/341-994- bratwurst with paprika chutney, cur- • Federroter, or “feather-red,” de- 4933, reservierung@thueringer-hof. ry, and roasted potatoes (€19.90), and scribing the dusty-rose color of new de, www.thueringer-hof.de. kangaroo steak with sour cherries, wine made from red grapes. chocolate flan, and rosemary (€21.70). Rating: Quality 15/20, Value 16/20 • Most or Moscht, another term For dessert try the cold strawberry for fermenting new wine, from the Gasthaus Barthels Hof soup with basil ice cream and mascar- German word for “must,” or freshly pone mouse (€7.50). This time-honored Gasthaus is lo- pressed grape juice. Often used in ref- cated in an historic mid-18th century The three-course “business erence to the grape juice itself or juice courtyard. It’s known for a large se- lunch,” Monday through Friday, is in the earliest stage of fermentation, lection of appetizers made from local €8.90, and Sunday brunch (from 9am when it’s still very sweet. ingredients, in addition to the usual to 2pm) is €24.50. Another €3 buys a • Neuer Wein, or “new wine,” an- menu of classic Saxon foods. The in- ticket to the top of the Panorama Tow- other of the most common, general triguing regional menu includes cold er, with its panoramic view of Leipzig terms for this drink. starters and hot soups from €2 to €13, and environs. and the Saxon main dishes “with a • Sauser is what new wine is often Contact: Panorama Tower – Plate of light touch”—cabbage rolls with ham called in the Italian Tirol, because the Art, Augustusplatz 9, 04109 Leipzig, and tomato foam, €9.70; beef with wine “rushes”—saust—to your head tel. +49/341-710-0590, fax +49/341- mustard crust and herbed potatoes, (and can quickly make you as soused 710-0589, info@panorama-leipzig, €12.60); hearty gratins (€12.40-18.70); as the term implies). www.panorama-leipzig.de. rustic cold platters (€9.30-14.50); and Rating: Quality 11/20, Value 10/20 · Staubiger, an Austrian term for irresistible desserts (try the warm fermenting grape juice in the latest chocolate soufflé with melting vanilla NEW AUTUMN WINE stage, after turning from Most to Sturm Continued from page 1 foam core, €7.10). to Staubiger. to six weeks (white wines ferment lon- If the choice is too difficult, try • Sturm, an Austrian term for new ger than reds), new wine is available the recommended three-course menu wine because the wine looks cloudy or only in the autumn, during the grape (€21.50): an appetizer of goat-cheese- “stormy.” The Austrians distinguish harvest and the few weeks immedi- and-tomato terrine and basil soup between Weisse (white) Sturm and ately following, in other words from with roasted mushrooms, followed by Schilcher (red ) Sturm (fermenting red around mid-August to mid-November stuffed turkey steak with mushrooms grape juice from the Styria region of (depending on the region, the grape, and cream cheese on herbed rice with Austria, although Schilcher is also the and the weather). garden vegetables, and ending with term for completely fermented rosé warm apple candy baked in pas- In the German-speaking areas of wine from this region). try, served with coffee ice cream. Europe, new wine is known by several • Süsser, or “sweet,” because not different names. Some of the terms Contact: Gasthaus Barthels Hof, all of the grape sugar has yet been con- come from local or regional dialects. Hainstrasse 1, 04109 Leipzig, tel. verted into alcohol or carbon dioxide. Others describe the various stages of +49/341-141-310, fax +49/341-141- Referring to grape juice in the earliest the grape fermentation process. And 3120, [email protected], www. stages of fermentation, this term is sometimes the exact definition of the barthels-hof.de especially prevalent in the Rhineland- term depends entirely on the person to Rating: Quality 14/20, Value 15/20 Pfalz and Bodensee (Lake Constance) whom you are speaking. regions. Panorama Restaurant • Bitzler, from a word in the Ger- • Raucher, or “smoky,” another man Pfalz dialect, meaning “bubbly” “Plate Of Art” name for cloudy new wine, often used or “effervescent.” Flying high above Leipzig near the in the Rhineland-Pfalz. top of the 400-feet-high Leipzig Pan- • Bremser, a term used in the Fran- • Reisser, a term for new wine that orama Tower, this restaurant consists conian wine region of Germany, de- has been fermented longer and is not of four dining areas with floor-to-ceil- scribing new wine in the early stage of so sweet. The dryness supposedly ing glass windows that look out over fermentation when it’s still sweet like “pulls at”—reisst—or puckers your different sections of the city. grape juice. throat. The eclectic menu spans a variety • Federweisser, meaning “feather- Gemütlichkeit 11 August 2012 www.gemut.com “Like” us at Facebook.com/Gemut.com • Vin nouveau, Neuer Wein, and route along the Main River, the Styr- eaten hot or at room temperature. Neuer Süsser are all terms that you’ll ian wine route in Austria, and the Look for little handwritten signs in see in the region of Alsace, where Vosges wine route in Alsace—all re- the windows of regional restaurants both French and the Germanic Al- gions in which the tradition of drink- or inns advertising “Federweisser und satian dialect are spoken. In the re- ing new wine is most firmly rooted. Zwiebelkuchen.” Just across the bor- gional dialect, fermenting grape juice Sometimes new wine is also avail- der, in the French region of Alsace, is also known as Neia Siessa, Neier able in local Gasthäuser and at au- new wine is often served with whole Süsser, and Neujer Siesser. tumn wine festivals. It’s less common walnuts and a slice of country-style None of these terms should be at more upscale restaurants, although rye bread, or with the Alsatians’ own confused with the more general I once drank delicious glasses of version of onion tart, called tarte à French use of vin nouveau (literally Sturm at the famous Griechenbeisl l’oignon in French (or Zeewelkueche “new wine”) or the famous Austrian restaurant in Vienna’s Altstadt. As in or Zeewelwaia in the local dialect). Heurige (meaning “this year’s”) many restaurants, it wasn’t listed on And the Austrians like to serve their wine. Both of these terms refer to the menu; one has to know enough dusty-red Staubiger with roasted new wines in the sense that they are about the season and the customs to . Whatever the accompani- the first real wines produced from ask the waiter if they happened to be ment, new wine is an unusual but the most recent autumn’s harvest. serving new wine that day. Earlier true taste of the autumn grape har- These are true wines, completely that same day I’d also downed a cou- vest season in northern Europe. fermented and ready for drinking by ple of glasses of dusty-red Schilcher Dear Subscriber mid-November of that harvest year— at a wine festival in the pedestrian Continued from page 2 although many people prefer to wait zone near St. Stephen’s Cathedral. and drink them the following spring Since it’s available only once a year, I’ve also never understood all the or summer, after the young wines during a relatively short time period, attention that’s given to Germany’s have had more time to age. new wine is a drink that you’ll want Romantic Road. Extending from Würzburg south to Füssen, it runs So why is Neuer Wein—grape to imbibe whenever you come across through and past a number of inter- juice that’s still fermenting in the it—if you like this bubbly brew as esting towns—notably Rothenburg tank—even sold at all? The vintner much as I do. ob der Tauber—but the drive itself is might have determined that this Unlabeled bottles of new wine mostly a tour bus-jammed snoozer particular batch of grape juice isn’t can also be purchased directly from that in many places isn’t the least bit going to produce a good quality some vintners, or occasionally at scenic. wine, so it might as well be drunk open-air markets or wine stores. now. Or a vintner might have an Drink the bottled new wine within Though it’s near a spookily gor- excess of grapes or grape juice that two days of buying it; otherwise it geous lake—the Königsee—and the he doesn’t have room to make into will go flat and lose the zingy taste. immensely popular Kehlsteinhaus and store as wine, or that he can’t Keep bottles loosely covered and (Hitler’s Eagles Nest), the town of sell for an acceptable price to the big stored in the hotel room mini-bar or Berchtesgaden is of little interest. Stay wine cooperatives. So he decides to refrigerator. Bottles corked too tightly in nearby Salzburg. market the liquid as soon as possible, will explode. One of Austria’s most widely as new wine. But tradition also plays New wine is customarily served publicized tourist destinations, Inns- a big role in the consumption of new in short fat glasses, or glass mugs, bruck, has never made my heart leap. wine. What grape harvest in Central that hold about six ounces of liquid— Less celebrated Linz also failed to Europe would be complete without not in the stemmed glasses used for captivate on my first and only visit. new wine to fortify the grape pick- real wine. It’s reputed to be a healthy Bregenz has little to offer except in ers and to satisfy locals and tourists drink because of the low alcohol July and August when outdoor opera alike? New wine is as much a part of content and the B-vitamins from the is performed on a floating stage on the grape harvest season as decorated yeast. But new can also be insidious. the Bodensee. The sets are huge and evergreen trees at Christmas and egg Because it doesn’t taste very alco- fantastic. trees at Easter. holic, you can easily consume a large This newsletter is much more about For travelers, however, finding quantity of it before the effects sud- what we like than what we don’t, but Neuer Wein is often a matter of ser- denly become obvious. Then you’ll when popular destinations don’t mea- endipity. You’re most likely to find truly understand why new wine is sure up, we’ve never been shy about it at small wineries that welcome sometimes called Sauser! letting you know.—RHB visitors to their courtyards, cellars, It’s best to eat something to slow Correction: Last month we er- and tasting rooms during harvest down the heady effect of this bubbly roneously reported that the biannual time. Look for new wine especially drink. In Germany, the traditional Bundesgartenschau (German Garden along the Deutsche Weinstrasse in accompaniment to new wine is a Show) would be in Koblenz in 2013. the Pfalz region, the Franconian wine slice of Zwiebelkuchen (onion tart), The event will actually be in Hamburg.

Gemütlichkeit 12 August 2012