press kit www.-partners.at Table of Contents

1. Weingut Gebeshuber ...... 5

2. Johannes Gebeshuber ...... 6

3. The Demeter Philosophy ...... 8

4. The Gebeshuber ...... 11

5. The Varieties

Zierfandler, the Rarity ...... 13

Rotgipfer, the Specialty ...... 15

Sankt Laurent, the Challenge ...... 17

Pinot Noir, the ‘King of Red Wines’ ...... 19

Weingut Gebeshuber: an overview of our individual sites ...... 21

6. A Special House ...... 23

7. Looking Toward the Future ...... 25

8. The Thermenregion ...... 27

9. , Climate & Grape Varieties ...... 29

10. ...... 30

11. Appendix

Wine, Water & Art ...... 31

The Thermenregion & the Habsburgs ...... 33

Glossary ...... 34

12. Contact ...... 36 1. Weingut Gebeshuber ...... 5

2. Johannes Gebeshuber ...... 6

3. The Demeter Philosophy ...... 8 Weingut Gebeshuber | The Gebeshuber Estate 4. The Gebeshuber Wines ...... 11 • Founded by Johannes Gebeshuber in 1998 5. The Grape Varieties • Gumpoldskirchen / winegrowing region »Thermenregion« Zierfandler, the Rarity ...... 13 • Twenty-fve hectares under vines

Rotgipfer, the Specialty ...... 15 • 80% Zierfandler, Rotgipfer, & Sankt Laurent, 20% Gemischter Satz Sankt Laurent, the Challenge ...... 17 • Organic since 2006, biodynamic according to Demeter since 2017 Pinot Noir, the ‘King of Red Wines’ ...... 19 • A great tradition, a contemporary interpretation: puristic, clear, refned

Weingut Gebeshuber: an overview of our individual vineyard sites ...... 21

6. A Special House ...... 23

7. Looking Toward the Future ...... 25

8. The Thermenregion ...... 27

9. Terroir, Climate & Grape Varieties ...... 29

10. Gumpoldskirchen ...... 30

11. Appendix

Wine, Water & Art ...... 31

The Thermenregion & the Habsburgs ...... 33

Glossary ...... 34

12. Contact ...... 36

Seite 3 Wine&Partners, At a glance • Founded in 1998 • Twenty-fve hectares • Forty-two vineyard parcels • Vines between seventeen and eighty years old • Top sites are Modler, Laim, Viereck & Glas • Organic since 2006, biodynamic according to Demeter since 2017 • 80% Zierfandler, Rotgipfer, Pinot Noir & Sankt Laurent • 20% Gemischter Satz

Seite 4 Wine&Partners, Vienna 1. Weingut Gebeshuber

The estate, founded in 1998 by Johannes His bright idea assumed a clear form in 2004 Gebeshuber, is located in the historic town of when he drastically reduced the number of Gumpoldskirchen, thirty kilometres south of varieties in his programme. From this moment Vienna in the Thermenregion, a winegrowing forward, the focus was placed on the indigenous region named for the local thermal springs. varieties of the Thermenregion. From the former Mr Gebeshuber has focussed precisely total of twenty-fve varieties, Johannes reduced upon those grape varieties that have made his material to a mere four sorts of vine – all in Gumpoldskirchen famous and held in high cuvées of the typical Gumpoldskirchner style – regard, far beyond the borders of : the Zierfandler-Rotgipfer vinifed on three different white varieties Zierfandler & Rotgipfer, as well as levels, complemented by three Sankt Laurent/ the reds Sankt Laurent & Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir cuvées.

Johannes Gebeshuber founded his estate in ‘I had, however, underestimated the fact that 1998, as a young, dynamic – and above all, many folks prefer to taste the grape varie- curious – self-taught individual. At this juncture ties unblended’, explains Johannes. Six years he owned between two and three hectares of further on, in 2010, it came to this: Johannes vines – a family possession – and vinifed the Gebeshuber decided to adopt a monovarietal wines in the cellar belonging to his in-laws. It single-vineyard concept of Zierfandler, Rotgip- was not long before his operation grew to eight fer, Sankt Laurent and Pinot Noir. These four hectares with a total of twenty-fve grape varie- varieties today make up eighty per cent of all ties, all planted as monovarietal parcels yielding of Gebeshuber’s vineyard holdings, while the sparkling wines, still wines and sweet wines. remainder is a Gemischter Satz, the famous traditional Austrian feld blend. In the export markets (including the USA as of 2000), the marquee varieties Grüner Veltliner, There are forty-two distinct parcels spread out and Zweigelt were in particularly high over twenty-fve hectares under cultivation. The demand. And thus within a few years, Johannes individual bear the sonorous names Gebeshuber had a huge product-range in his Modler (Zierfandler), Laim (Rotgipfer), Viereck programme, purchasing from an addi- (Pinot Noir) and Glas (Sankt Laurent). The oldest tional ffty hectares of vines. vines have today reached the venerable age of eighty years, while the youngest are seventeen. But soon he came to concentrate once more The result articulates itself in wines of notable on the essentials, on those wines that were composure and style, which represent the truly most important to him and made the most spearhead of the Thermenregion. Puristic, clear, sense to him. ‘Quite a bright idea’, he comments, refned – just like the winegrower Gebeshuber. looking back contentedly upon the decision he made then, to reduce the number of hectares under cultivation and to no longer let himself be led by the market.

Seite 5 Wine&Partners, Vienna 2. Johannes Gebeshuber

‘I was not as loud as some of the others’, says These experiences certainly made a bit of a Johannes Gebeshuber (born in 1968), speaking mark on Johannes, but despite this he initially about his development as a winegrower. But he set out to study economics. Not born to the certainly never lacked for passion, enthusiasm plough, for his parents had met during their and an intimate connexion to nature. During student days in Vienna, and decided to make his holidays as a child he helped both sets of Gumpoldskirchen their base of operations. Also, grandparents at their farming operations in the as a self-taught winegrower he was obliged to Waldviertel or in Oberösterreich (the state of fnd his own path at frst, cope with inevitable Upper Austria). setbacks and set off in new directions.

Seite 6 Wine&Partners, Vienna Johannes’s father is a structural analyst, and And in the realm of as well, he was was part of the team that designed the Vienna inspired by the treasures of Burgundy: In Underground; he had bought the frst vineyards Vosne-Romanée he tasted a particularly dark as an investment. Johannes never had in mind, – but for this, even more elegant – Pinot Noir, though, to follow in his father’s footsteps – but a Richebourg from the cult domain Ann Gros. nevertheless he decided to study economics – A frst-rate pleasure, wines from this twen- while along with this he began to become more ty-fve-hectare grand cru site appear listed in the and more intensely interested in wine. cellar book of French king Louis XVI.

One of his frst voyages of discovery in this feld Upon returning to his homeland, Johannes led him to Burgundy, where he was most highly worked for a while as a business consultant. impressed by a white grand cru Corton-Charle- In this period, he met his former wife Johanna, magne. This extraordinary site was frst ofcially whose family owned a culinary establishment documented as a vineyard as early as 775 AD, with vineyards in Gumpoldskirchen. and had achieved AOC status in 1937. Johannes Gebeshuber retains a clear memory: ‘The struc- Two sons were born, Ferdinand (in 1998) and ture, the acidity, the freshness and the limestony Paul (in 2000). Along with his initial attempts terroir – simply splendid’! This white Burgundy at , for two years he maintained a provided the initial spark of inspiration, because business that exported Austrian spring water to Johannes Gebeshuber was certain that ‘This . style of wine could also be possible with Zierfan- dler and Rotgipfer’. At the beginning, Johannes Gebeshuber saw himself confronted with great challenges, For his future wines, Johannes had a precise because he recognised that the representative conception: ‘Clear fruit, clear structure. I wines Zierfandler and Rotgipfer frst had to fnd remember some very lovely Zierfandlers made their way back in to the culinary culture of the by Friedl Schellmann in the 1990s. In my opinion, Thermenregion. ‘Looking at wine lists, I saw all Zierfandler is nicer than Weissburgunder (Pinot the other winegrowing regions there – almost Blanc) and besides, it is such a rarity’. exclusively – Wachau, and Südstei- ermark. You could only fnd Zierfandler and Rotgipfer at the Heurigen back then’.

Seite 7 Wine&Partners, Vienna 3. The Demeter Philosophy

‘Agriculture is something that I do not regard as Gebeshuber. A near-to-nature and organic culti- an industry, but rather as a circulatory system, vation of his vineyards quickly became a clear as the freedom of the farmer.’ says Johannes issue for him; artifcial fertilisers were something Gebeshuber, who exclusively practises biody- that he would by no means contemplate. So in namic , according to the precepts the 1990s, after founding his estate, Gebeshuber of Demeter, at his estate. ‘There are now more adopted a careful and cautious approach to insects, falcons and hares in our vineyards. And I determining the needs of his grapevines, based am very happy about that. The effects of our way on precise observation and insightful experimen- of working are visible and apparent. The purely tation. In addition, he favoured a certain natural ethereal, vibrations or energies, are less of a wildness in his vineyards, which the plants concern to me’. would create by means of their natural compe- tition with one another. This would strengthen In Greek mythology, Demeter is one of the the health of the grapes, and invigorate their twelve Olympian deities. She watches over substance. the fertility of the earth, the crop, the seeds and the seasons. She may therefore be called ‘The great thing about Rudolf Steiner is, that he the mother goddess for the cycle of nature. did not believe in the scaleability of agriculture, The guiding principle of a biodynamic agri- and knew that one did not become any more culture, the ‘Demeter Concept’ can be traced productive with artifcial fertilisers and weed back to the philosophy of Austrian metaphys- killers’, explains Johannes Gebeshuber. ‘The idea ical theorist Rudolf Steiner, who devised the and the realisation that agriculture was by no Demeter Concept according to his doctrine of means a one way street is something that I fnd – anthroposophy. Anthroposophy (anthropos – especially for the 1920s – simply ingenious’. classical Greek, a person; sophia – classical Greek, wisdom) is a spiritually oriented way of According to Demeter’s precepts, practicing knowledge, conceived as a stimulus for indi- biodynamic cultivation means that one vidual development and restructuring the social approaches his work as a holistic matter. In this, environment, whereby this restructuring and the individual circumstances of the particular development should take place in harmony with operation as well as earthly and cosmic rhythms nature. are taken into account. In cultivation, any use of chemical/synthetic fertilisers is expressly ‘I am convinced that positive human energy can forbidden; only preparations of medicinal plants be transmitted to plants’, explains Johannes may be applied. These natural substances

Seite 8 Wine&Partners, Vienna enhance the development of the grapevines, in according to Demeter’s guidelines, as little tech- that they exert a harmonising infuence. With nical apparatus, additives and auxiliary agents this, according to the precepts of Demeter, as possible should be employed in every phase complete individuation of the wine estate is of the process. achieved and the wine becomes a distinctive and authentic expression of this individuality. This means, for example, that harvesting is done exclusively by hand, in order to guarantee the A wine, produced according to Demeter’s highest possible quality in the grape material. guidelines, is offered to a critical audience of The use of sulphur dioxide should be forgone consumers, for whom a maximum of transpar- as well, and procedures which demand a great ency concerning origin and production holds usage of energy and raw materials ought to highest priority. Nothing should conceal or veil be avoided. A comprehensive schedule of the true character of the wine. guidelines for viticulture, vegetable cultivation, beekeeping, fsh breeding and even the brewing But it‘s not only in the vineyards – the work in of beer can be found at: the cellar is also conducted according to biody- www.biodynamisch.at namic precepts. In the vinifcation of a wine

At a glance • Biodynamic cultivation based on the teachings of Austrian Rudolf Steiner • These methods of cultivation have been in practice since 1924; Demeter founded in 1927 • Not only winegrowers or farmers practice cultivation according to Demeter, but also beekeepers, brewers, fsheries and gardeners • There are 221 member producers (in transition and fully certifed together) in Austria, of which sixty are wine estates

Seite 9 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 10 Wine&Partners, Vienna 4. The Gebeshuber Wines

The entire Gebeshuber portfolio has been Johannes Gebeshuber is experimenting with a certifed organic since 2006, and since 2017 Zierfandler-Sekt, and also makes sweet wines in Johannes has been working biodynamically the good years. according the guidelines of Demeter. He places a totally clear focus on the rare but typical white The estate’s sales are divided into 20% cellar wine varieties of his region: Zierfandler and door, 50% trade to the hospitality industry all Rotgipfer. over Austria, plus 30% trade to export markets.

In the red wine department, Gebeshuber concen- trates on Pinot Noir and Sankt Laurent. At the current time, his portfolio encompasses ten still wines, harvested from twenty-fve hectares under vines:

Four single-vineyard wines – Gebeshuber Einzellagen • Ried Modler. Zierfandler • Ried Laim. Rotgipfer • Ried Glas. Sankt Laurent • Ried Viereck. Pinot Noir

Four »Ortsweine« (villages wines) – Gebeshuber vom Muschelkalk (fossil limestone) • Gumpoldskirchner Zierfandler • Gumpoldskirchner Rotgipfer • Gumpoldskirchner Sankt Laurent • Gumpoldskirchner Pinot Noir

Two regional wines – Gebeshuber querfeldein (‘cross-country’) Gemischter Satz • Querfeldein white • Querfeldein red

Seite 11 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 12 Wine&Partners, Vienna 5. The Grape Varieties Zierfandler, the Rarity

Johannes Gebeshuber holds the variety Zierfan- In the vineyard, Zierfandler fnds itself best dler near and dear. More than seven hectares are nourished in soils of brown earth with a high planted to Zierfanlder as single vineyard sites. content of fossil limestone, withstands heat well, is vulnerable to botrytis and sensitive to Zierfandler is a natural crossing of Roter Veltiner frost. Wines vinifed from Zierfandler are rich in with a Traminer-like variety, like Rotgipfer one of extract, characterised above all by a pleasant the indigenous vines of the Thermenregion, and acidity and refned aromatics, exhibiting signif- is planted nearly nowhere else but in and around cant aging potential. Gumpoldskirchen. Its entire expanse in Austria adds up to a mere seventy-seven hectares. Hygiene is of the essence here, as the grapes Zierfandler is also known by its synonym spend eight to ten hours on the skins. Johannes ‘Spätrot’, because its late-ripening clusters take Gebeshuber eschews the use of sulphur in his on a reddish colouration. Zierfandler is vinifed vinifcation, avoiding any application to together with its sister variety Rotgipfer in the clusters or grape must. His Zierfandler is lightly Thermenregion as Spätrot-Rotgipfer – either pressed into cask where it ferments blended in a cuvée or planted as a feld blend. spontaneously, in contrast to ‘natural wines’, which begin fermenting on the skins. Zierfandler possesses a high proportion of tannins, but Johannes regards this as positive, in that it imparts structure to the wine. In order to avoid coarse turbidity, Gebeshuber‘s Zierfandler passes through layered flters before bottling.

At a glance • The name is derived from the reddish-colouration on the sun-drenched side of the clusters • Total area under vines in Austria is seventy-seven hectares, almost entirely in Gumpoldskirchen • Often blended with Rotgipfer • Rich in extract, pleasant acidity, refned aromaticity & good cellaring potential • Gebeshuber cultivates 7.5 hectares

Seite 13 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 14 Wine&Partners, Vienna Rotgipfer, the Specialty

Johannes Gebeshuber cultivates 6.5 hectares of The variety is noted for consistent yields on Rotgipfer with particular enthusiasm, a variety warm south-facing sites with limestony subsoil. that amounts to 5% of Austria’s total area under Rotgipfers possess gentle acidity and a fne vines. The indigenous variety was mentioned for bouquet, demand a longer time for maturing the frst time in 1837 by Johann Burger; it is a and thus are especially suited to cellaring. natural crossing of and Traminer, Quite frequently the variety is blended with the deriving the name from the red tips of its shoots. Zierfandler (occasionally called Spätrot), also indigenous to the Thermenregion. Wines of this The entire area planted to Rotgipfer in Austria is nature were known as »Gumpoldskirchner«, approximately 120 hectares, once more almost quite famous during the heyday of the Habsburg exclusively found in Gumpoldskirchen. The monarchy. grape of this vine is rich in extract, large, densely packed on the cluster and juicy.

At a glance • The name come from the reddish tip of the shoot • Total area under vines in Austria is 120 hectares, almost exclusively in Gumpoldskirchen • Rich in extract, densely berried and juicy • Often found in a blend with Zierfandler • Gebeshuber cultivates 6.5 hectares

Seite 15 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 16 Wine&Partners, Vienna Sankt Laurent, the Challenge

‘Pinot Saint Laurent’ is only one of nearly forty Since the end of the 1990s, Sankt Laurent has synonyms for this demanding red wine variety, enjoyed a well-earned renaissance in Austrian a member of the Pinot family. In Austria, Sankt viticulture; the area under vines has grown Laurent was frst planted in the vineyards of steadily, above all in the Thermenregion and in Klosterneuburg in 1860. Its name refers Burgenland. Sankt Laurent is a true diva in the to , when the grapes begin to change vineyard, demands deep, limestone-rich soils their colour around the time of St Lawrence’s day and delivers irregular yields. Johannes (10 August) and not, as erroneously assumed, Gebeshuber has accepted this challenge, and from the French commune Saint-Laurent, which has planted 3.5 hectares to Sankt Laurent, has nothing to do with the evolution of the name. including one hectare as the monvarietal In terms of ampelography, Sankt Laurent enjoys vineyard »Glas«. The densely-berried blue-black a demonstrably Austrian pedigree. clusters deliver a profoundly aromatic red wine, powerful and fruit-forward, which not only demonstrates high quality, but cellarworthiness as well.

At a glance • The name comes from St Lawrence’s day on 10 August, when the clusters begin to change colour • Aromatic, fruit-forward, robust & fnicky, with irregular yields • Requires very warm, south- or southeast-exposed vineyard sites in order to ripen fully • Good cellaring potential • Total area under vines in Austria is 732 hectares • Gebeshuber cultivates 3.5 hectares

Seite 17 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 18 Wine&Partners, Vienna Pinot Noir, the ‘King of Red Wines’

Blauer Burgunder, Blauburgunder or Pinot Noir water supply. It is characterised by its small fgures worldwide as one of the most signif- blue-black berries, which are quite susceptible cant and best-known red wine grapes, and is to rot. On the ideal site, with ample ripeness and occasionally described as the ‘King of the Red skilful vinifcation, Pinot Noir yields high-grade, Wines‘. Its total area under vines in Austria is cellarworthy wines that are notable for their 616 hectares, concentrated in Burgenland and berryish and velvety favour. Niederösterreich. And although the total area is diminishing slightly, the signifcance of Pinot At 3.5 hectares, the parcels of Pinot Noir Noir in Austria is gaining traction. at Weingut Gebeshuber balance the scales with their Burgundian brother Sankt Laurent. The variety requires, frst and foremost, early Johannes Gebeshuber produces his Pinot Noir vineyards with deep and warm soils and a good as a single-vineyard bottling from Ried Viereck.

At a glance • 2,000-year-old grape variety from Lake Geneva/Rhône Valley • Berryish & velvety favour, bright colour, subtle aromatics • Total area under vines in Austria 616 hectares • Gebeshuber cultivates 3.5 hectares

Seite 19 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 20 Wine&Partners, Vienna Weingut Gebeshuber: an overview of our individual vineyard sites

Vineyard (Riede) Gendl Glas Laim Modler Satzing Student Viereck Wiege name

Area 0.53 hectares 0.86 ha 0.68 ha 0.34 ha 1.76 ha 3.66 ha 0.76 ha 1.16 ha

Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Gumpolds- Town Pfafstätten kirchen kirchen kirchen kirchen kirchen kirchen kirchen

Elevation 300m 390m 260m 320m 320m 270m 260m 350m

5%, rising Incline 8% 10% 15% 17% 13% 5% 20% gently

East- East- Exposition South Southeast Southeast South Southeast South southeast southeast

Limestone- Brown earth rich brown over fossil Medium- Medium- Brown earth Brown earth Brown earth Brown earth earth with limestone; depth to depth to Soil over fossil over fossil over fossil over fossil limestone good water deep, silty deep, silty limestone limestone limestone limestone gravels and storage loam and clay loam and clay sand capacity

Grape Pinot Noir Sankt Laurent Rotgipfer Zierfandler Sankt Laurent Rotgipfer Pinot Noir Zierfandler variety

Age of vines 15–20 5–35 70–75 15–70 40–50 40–45 45–50 2–5 in years

Plantation 4,000 vines 4,200 vines/ 3,400 vines/ 4,200 vines/ 4,000 vines/ 5,500 vines/ 4,200 vines/ 4,000 vines/ density per hectare ha ha ha ha ha ha ha

Training Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m Espalier/2m system

Average an- 600mm 600mm 600mm 600mm 600mm 600mm 600mm 600mm nual rainfall

Rather warm Substantial but windy temperature as well, so Insular site, swings dries quickly Optimal Very warm. Warm site, well Rather warm Rather warm between after rain exposure to cool falling protected but windy as but windy as Micro- day and or dewfall. sunlight and Site borders winds in the against the well, so dries well, so dries climate night, due to Cool falling optimum directly on evening from wind with quickly after quickly after elevation and winds in the hours of the Vienna the Vienna optimum rainfall. rainfall. the proximity evening from sunshine. Woods. woods. exposure to of the nearby the nearby sunlight. forest. .

Cultivation Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic Biodynamic

Seite 21 Wine&Partners, Vienna At a glance • 1905/1906 built by the mayor and City Council of Vienna • Under historical preservation order • Leasehold as of 1998 (building, including vineyards & contents of the cellar), later purchased • Today some 80% of the inventory of old wines ( since 1945) are kept in the cellar, 20% in a vinotheque in the centre of town.

Seite 22 Wine&Partners, Vienna 6. A Special House

‘Of course I could have erected a new building on and is still in business. In 1939 the cooperative the green meadow, but that was not my objec- of Gumpoldskirchen leased the cellar and tive’, says Johannes Gebeshuber. At the end of expanded the premises. The house was badly the 1990s, Johannes was on the lookout for a damaged during the Second World War, and the production facility for his wines. Previously he stock of wine was plundered by the occupying had vinifed the wines in the of his forces. in-laws, but with the founding of his own winery, the wish to have his own cellar grew as well. In 1958, three years after the signing of the state treaty and the declaration of Austrian neutrality, At that time, the building including cellar was the cellar could be opened once more. The long available for leasehold, and aroused the interest and drawn-out renovation work on the severely of the enthusiastic winegrower: ‘The cellar damaged cellar reached its high point in 1982, maintained a constant 13°C, is always cool in when the splendid façade of the house could the summer, and doesn’t have to be heated in shine forth once more. The Community of the winter – ideal in every respect’! Sensitive Gumpoldskirchen acquired the house in 1993 by nature and cosmopolitan by temperament, and opened there a museum of viticulture, also the politically active Johannes Gebeshuber had making it centre-stage for the local growers’ been a member of Gumpoldskirchen’s municipal organisation. council for twenty-fve years. It was through this political body that he learned of the impressive Johannes Gebeshuber leased the building and and historically signifcant building in the heart the wine cellar in 1998. This cellar shelters a of the market town. particularly unique treasure: old white still wines reaching back to the year 1945 are arrayed bottle The turn of the twentieth century was a great by bottle, among them a Gumpoldskirchner time for the wines of Gumpoldskirchen, and 1955, which because of its is known as there was great thirst in the capital city Vienna. the ‘State Treaty Wine’. Today approximately For this reason, the mayor of Vienna at the time eighty per cent of the stock of old wines is kept decided to establish a cellar for the community in the cellar of Johannes Gebeshuber, while the of Vienna in this famous wine town. Cask- remaining twenty per cent are in a vinotheque in wine was vinifed in this cellar for the Vienna the town centre of Gumpoldskirchen. Rathauskeller, a restaurant that opened in 1899

Seite 23 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 24 Wine&Partners, Vienna 7. Looking Toward the Future

‘I want to be the best. As an athlete, this is the And how are his wines likely to develop only clear formulation for me – that is my goal, stylistically? Johannes Gebeshuber is convinced: and the daily motivation for my work’. Johannes ‘The favours have to remain invigorating. My Gebeshuber is clear about his plans. ‘It doesn’t wines should always remain a path to pleasure, really matter if I achieve this, or if my sons do. In and that one can enjoy the second or even the the future, every well managed restaurant should third glass. To achieve that we could even get have a Zierfandler from Gebeshuber on its wine just a bit wilder and still have a clear conscience list’. Johannes is standing on the patio of his – use even less sulphur, perhaps not flter at all’. house, looking out at the adjacent vineyards, He could indulge in a bit more experimentation the impressive wine cellar deep beneath his in making the wines – leave them for varying feet. ‘This feels good,’ he admits. ‘At twenty-fve periods of time on the lees, or even bottling them hectares, the estate is just the right size; perhaps completely unfltered on occasion. Adopting we’ll add fve more, but no more than that’. complete fermentation on the skins remains out of the question: ‘There are too many bacteria that He consistently takes a critical view of his wines, can insinuate themselves, that lead to off-favours and wishes to keep developing and remain in in the wine. And a sparkling-clean style is at the motion. The course is well-plotted and laid in; he end of the day the nicest’. feels confdent, now that the top addresses on the Austrian culinary scene have become aware In autumn 2019 there will be four new of him: ‘Just now, one of the most renowned »Ortsweine« from the 2018 vintage coming on restaurants in Austria has ordered a full range the market, and there is an additional surprise of my single-vineyard wines – only a little while ready to leap forth from the wine cellar of ago, the orders came in for twelve to twenty-four Johannes Gebeshuber: a Zierfandler Sekt. Done bottles’. Demeter-fashion, of course.

Seite 25 Wine&Partners, Vienna Seite 26 Wine&Partners, Vienna 8. The Thermenregion

The winegrowing region Thermenregion belongs Weingut Thallern in Gumpoldskirchen, which to to the superordinate wine region Niederöster- this day remains the property of Heiligenkreuz reich (), and begins at the southern Abbey. With the involvement of the religious city limits of Vienna. And if one thinks of warm orders, vines of the Pinot family also came from water, they’re on the right track! More about this Burgundy. During the wars with the Turks in the in the chapter ‘Wine, Water & Art’. 16th & 17th centuries, the state of the vines suffered appreciably, but were able to recover Its 2,200 hectares under vines extend in the west from the devastation in a relatively short time. all the way to the Vienna Woods, and is bordered on the east by the Pannonian Plain. This stretch In the meantime, folks at the nearby imperial of land has been known for outstanding wines for court in Vienna became aware of the four- a handsomely long time, and municipalities such ishing winegrowing region quite close to the city as Gumpoldskirchen or Baden are known to many gates. Wines of the Thermenregion became a as local recreation areas. The name of the region consistent feature on the richly bedecked dinner is derived from its many thermal and mineral tables of the Schönbrunn court and in Vienna’s springs that fow in the – for example Bad Hofburg Palace, where they enjoyed great popu- Vöslau, which produces one of Austria’s best- larity with the Emperor, the nobility, the royal known brands, Vöslauer mineral water. retinue and the diplomatic corps. In order to safeguard this treasure, Emperor The Thermenregion was defned as an inde- Ferdinand (1793–1875) ordained that no vines pendent winegrowing region in 1985, and is thus were to be damaged during construction of relatively young. But even so it can look back on the Südbahn – the most important segment a rich – and occasionally turbulent – history. Its of the Austrian railroad system, which linked annals as a wineproducing region can be written Vienna with the now-Italian port city of Trieste starting more than 2,000 years ago, when the (then part of the Habsburg Empire). According Roman legions brought the frst grape vines and to Imperial wishes, a tunnel was dug between practical knowledge concerning winemaking to Gumpoldskirchen and to spare the the then-province of Noricum. They found the vineyards – this construction became lovingly most favourable sites for the cultivation of their known as the ‘Kissing Tunnel’ in the local idiom. vines on the edge of the Pannonian Plain and on the slopes of Mount Anninger. From this time forward the wines from today’s Thermenregion were known as ‘wines from the In the twelfth century, brothers of the Cister- Südbahn’. This was to change in the mid-1980s, cian and Benedictine orders continued with because with the establishment of the inde- this pioneer work, and established professional pendent winegrowing region in 1985, the name viticulture in the Thermenregion. In the course »Thermenregion« became its ofcial designa- of doing this, the oldest wineproducing estate tion. Despite the fact, the region – above all from in Austria was founded. In 1141, monks from the older members of the population – is still the famous Clos de Vougeot founded the estate referred to as »Sudbahn« for short.

Seite 27 Wine&Partners, Vienna At a glance • 2,200 hectares under vines • Situated between Vienna & • To the west, borders the Vienna Woods • An average 1,800 hours of sunshine per year • Average yearly mean temperature 9.9°C 1) • Average annual precipitation 615mm • Forty-two towns and villages (including Gumpoldskirchen, Baden, , Bad Vöslau, Sooss & Tattendorf) • Approximately 300 winegrowers

1) https://www.weinland-thermenregion.at/thermenregion-uebersicht/klima-und-bedingungen/

Seite 28 Wine&Partners, Vienna 9. Terroir, Climate & Grape Varieties

The landscape of the Thermenregion is some- cool winters. A great many hours of sunshine what reminiscent of that in Burgundy, and the – the average is 1,800 per year – contribute to same is true of the structure of its terroir. One a consistent warming of the soils. Soft breezes particular feature is provided by the fact that allow the hanging grapes to dry quickly after the soils most conducive to viticulture manifest rainfall. themselves in two types: Thanks to this continual change of tempera- Once, a gigantic primordial sea covered the tures, the grapes develop thicker skins, which region around Mount Anninger. Over millions of contain the aromatic materials typical to the years, layers of alluvial soils deposited them- variety. selves on the slopes of this mountain – brown earth with a high fossil limestone content. As for as the varietal spectrum goes, red Grapes are grown here that produce elegant and white wines are well balanced in the white wines, in particular from the indigenous Thermenregion, and cultivated to the same varieties Zierfandler and Rotgipfer, as do those degree. Vineyards where white wines are that yield fligree red wines with aging potential. grown are found primarily in the municipalities Gumpoldskirchen, Pfaffstätten, To the east, however, the soils are characterised and Traiskirchen, while the red-wine-vines tend by limestony gravels. These soils are porous to grow in Bad Vöslau, Tattendorf or Sooss. in nature, draining quickly a rainfall, and warm up quickly when the sun shines – these are the Regionally typical leading varieties are the indig- ideal conditions for growing red wine grapes. For enous grapes Zierfandler (or Spätrot) this reason, one encounters here primarily plant- and Rotgipfer. Alongside these, the varieties ings of the demanding Pinot family members , Weissburgunder and Neuburger are Pinot Noir and Sankt Laurent, although current well represented. In the red wine department, plantations show a mixture of red and white growers favour Pinot Noir and Sankt Laurent, grape varieties in all municipalities. followed by Blauer Portugieser and Zweigelt. Out of these varieties, Johannes Gebeshuber culti- The Thermenregion lies directly under the infu- vates Zierfandler, Rotgipfer, Sankt Laurent and ence of the Pannonian climate, which typically Pinot Noir. brings hot summers, dry autumns and relatively

Seite 29 Wine&Partners, Vienna 10. Gumpoldskirchen

Gumpoldskirchen is situated some thirty kilo- talked-about scandal in the 1980s, metres south of Vienna, along with Traiskirchen the wine rapidly lost its market share. Today, the best-known wine towns in the Thermen- winegrowers like Johannes Gebeshuber are region. The municipality was frst mentioned re-establishing the Thermenregion’s reputation ofcially in the year 1140, because at the as a source of frst class wines. time folks were already cultivating the vine professionally on the east-facing slopes of the Beyond that, »Gumpoldskirchner« stands as 675-metre Mount Anninger. Weingut Thallern, a synonym for the great Heurigen & Buschen- founded in 1141, is located in Gumpoldskirchen, schank (wine tavern) – tradition of the region. and to this day belongs to Heiligenkreuz Abbey. According to a circular edict issued by Emperor The term ‘Gumpoldskirchner wine’, or Joseph II in 1784, farmers were permitted to »Gumpoldskirchner« for short, has made a offer their own products for sale and to pour name for itself. These wines are the famous them for public consumption. blends of the varieties Zierfandler (Spätrot) and Rotgipfer – aromatic, full-bodied and when of This regulation was renewed by decree of the good quality also a long-lived white wine cuvée. court chancellor in 1845. Today, this special Today the vineyards of Gumpoldskirchen add up right is regulated by paragraph eleven of the to 280 hectares, seventy-fve per cent of which Austrian Commercial Code and by similar tavern are planted to white varieties and twenty-fve per laws of the federal states Wien, Niederöster- cent to red. reich, Burgenland, Steiermark and Carinthia. The Buschenschank or the Heuriger remains to this Up until the 1970s »Gumpoldskirchner« day a fast feature in the Thermenregion and was internationally popular as well, owing enjoys great popularity. The established ‘hours to its pleasant accessibility. At their historic of operation’ of each particular wine tavern Vienna meeting in 1961, US President John F are inscribed upon signboards and posted on Kennedy and Soviet Premier Nikita Krushchev the so-called ‘Heurigen-tree’. This article is a enjoyed wines from Gumpoldskirchen, and wrought-iron signpost, which is displayed in a »Gumpoldskirchner« was served in New York prominent location in the town or village. City at the Opera Ball in 1976. With the much-

Seite 30 Wine&Partners, Vienna 11. Appendix Wine, Water & Art

The I. Vienna »Hochquellwasserleitung« (high-source water opened on 24 October 1873. The I. Vienna Hochquellenlei- conduit) is located in the immediate vicinity of the Gebe- tung passes through municipalities in the Thermenregion shuber Estate. For more than 140 years, this water pipe like Mödling or Baden. Along this route it is not rare to has channelled water for the Austrian national capital from encounter aqueducts that work themselves impressively springs in the & Rax Mountains in southern into the landscape. Niederösterreich and the Steiermark. In 1910, this system was reinforced by a second pipe 200 kilometres in length, But it’s not just high-quality drinking water that fows which delivers drinking water from the Hochschwab region through the Thermenregion. There is a row of several in the Steiermark to Vienna. Both conduits are unique for thermals springs that runs on the break line between the Europe, because Vienna – alone among European capitals Vienna Woods and the . These springs have – does not draw its water from underground sources. been in use even since the time of the Roman colonisation. Bad Vöslau is one of the best-known communities that For this reason, the districts within the Thermenregion were beneft from these springs – on one hand because of the of greatest signifcance for the onetime imperial city: renowned spa and cure-resort Bad Vöslau, and on the other originally, Vienna was supplied with water by means of because of the Vöslauer mineral water, which is drawn from private wells, but since there was no functional system some six hundred metres of depth within the city limits and of sewage disposal, the quality of ground water became exported worldwide. consistently worse, and in order to avoid illness, the Vien- nese began constructing pipelines at the beginning of the In addition, Bad Vöslau has become a port of call for many nineteenth century. The greater part of the population had people with cultural interests: at the ‘Swimming Salon’ in the possibility of obtaining drinking water of better quality the Thermal Bath, renowned actors read texts written by from only a few wells, although access to these sources of famous poets and authors, In addition, the annually recur- water was without cost. In order to supply these wells and ring town festival in the Schlosspark and the Advent market aqueducts with water, after four years of construction the I. around the town hall attract numerous enthusiastic visitors Vienna Hochquellenleitung (‘Emperor Franz-Joseph-Hoch- to the town. quellenleitung’), with a length of ninety kilometres, was

Seite 31 Wine&Partners, Vienna At a glance There are two Hochquellwasserleitungen that fow through the Thermen- region, supplying Vienna with the purest drinking water from the Alps. All other capital cities of Europe draw their water from underground sources. In addition, there is a line of thermal springs that runs parallel to the Vienna Woods from north to south, with famous remedial spas in Baden, Bad Vöslau and Bad Fischau.

Seite 32 Wine&Partners, Vienna The Thermenregion & the Habsburgs

The Thermenregion held great signifcance for the New Palace) and the Franzenburg are all located on the erstwhile Habsburg Monarchy, and not only because of the extensive park grounds. outstanding quality of its viticulture... All along, people were aware of the unique features that this stretch of land had One more place that is closely connected with the history to offer. of the Habsburgs is Schloss at in Nied- erösterrich, southwest of Vienna. Once the property of On many occasions, Empress Elisabeth of Austria took Heilgenkreuz Abbey, Rudolf, son of Empress Elisabeth refuge from strict and tiring court ceremonies in the and Franz Joseph, acquired the building and remodelled nearby Vienna Woods, where her husband Franz Joseph it into his personal hunting lodge. Mayerling became constructed a romantic hideaway for her – the Hermes tragically famous in 1889, when Rudolf died together with Villa. The villa remains to this day a beloved destination for under circumstances that are still day trips, nestled in the grounds of the Lainzer Tiergarten, a not adequately clarifed. According to the current state of nature preserve close to the gates of Vienna. research, the Crown Prince, who suffered severely from depression, frst shot his lover before subsequently taking The area of the Lainzer Tiergarten is part of the Vienna his own life. Today, Mayerllng houses the Order Carmel St Woods, which is one of the largest regions of decid- Joseph of the Discalced Carmelites. uous forest in central Europe. With an area of more than 100,00 hectares, the Vienna Woods reach across ffty-one Imperial fair also surrounds the town of Baden, east of communities in Niederösterreich and seven city districts in Alland and twenty-six kilometres south of Vienna. From Vienna. It fgures as one of the most biologically diversifed 1796 to 1834, Emperor Franz I. spent every summer in woodlands in Austria, and was ofcially declared to be a Baden, and declared the town to be his ofcial summer ‘Biosphere Park’ by UNESCO in 2005. Within the Vienna residence. This advanced the status of Baden very quickly Woods one can visit one of the oldest war memorials in to that of an important and fashionable spa town, because Austria, the Hussars Temple, which was built to honour fve the court retinue and the upper segment of society soon Hussars who saved the life of the noble Fürst Liechtenstein followed the example of their sovereign and focked here in the Battle of Aspern against Napoleon Bonaparte’s army. to take the cure. After a great fre, Baden was rebuilt in 1812 according to the plans of Joseph Kornhäusl in the In the community of in Niederösterreich, also Biedermeier style, and thus became known as the ‘Bieder- on the city limits of Vienna, one can visit the Laxenburg meier town’. The Grand Casino Baden, which was originally Palaces, which up until the end of the Austro-Hungarian constructed as a spa facility in 1886, is still today the monarchy in 1918 provided important quarters for the largest casino in Europe, with its own convention centre. ruling : Empress Elisabeth of Austria Currently the Thermenregion celebrates its wine festival and Franz Joseph I spent their honeymoon here, and two annually on the terrace of the Casino – an event in which of their children – Rudolf and Gisela frst saw the light of the diversity of wines stands in the spotlight, and where day here, while the last Austrian emperor, Karl I, resided the high point is the awarding of prizes to the victors in the primarily at Laxenburg. The Old Palace, the Blue Court (or different varietal categories.

Seite 33 Wine&Partners, Vienna Glossary

A selection of terms and names connected with the Thermenregion and Weingut Gebeshuber

Anninger Mount Anninger is a mountain in Niederösterrich, composed of a limestone surface with four peaks. The highest peak rises to 675 metres of elevation and is called »Hochanninger«. Mount Anninger is popular as a destination for excursions, and belongs to the communities Gumpoldskirchen, Pfaffstätten, , Mödling and Hinterbrühl.

Aussteckzeiten »Aussteckzeiten« is the word for the hours of opening at Heurigen and Buschenschank wine taverns, set down and regu- lated in each federal state’s tavern law. The landlord or publican fastens a tuft of twigs or a bundle of brushwood – the so called »Buschen« that decorates the entrance – to the wall to announce that his establishment is open for business. If the hours of operation are over, or if the place has been drunk dry, the »Buschen« will be taken in once more. In many communities, arrangements are made between the individual proprietors with regard to opening hours, in order to operate more economically, to avoid any disagreements arising from competition, and to make the offering in the community more attractive for the visitors.

Buschenschank A Buschenschank (or »Heuriger«) is an establishment where the publican, proprietor or lessor of vineyards or orchards can serve food and beverages that either come from his own production or are acquired from rural agriculture. This includes wine, Sturm (partially fermented grape must), grape must, grape juice, fruit wines, ciders and house-distilled schnapps. In addition, at a Buschenschank only cold foods and house-made baked goods may be served. Buschenschanken fourish in Austria primarily in Vienna, Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Steiermark, Carinthia and Öberösterreich. Each federal state has its own Buschenschankgesetz (tavern law) that regulates hours of operation, names and menu.

Busserltunnel The Busserltunnel (‘Kissing Tunnel’, ofcially called the Gumpoldskirchner Tunnel) is a railway tunnel in Niederösterreich located on the segment between Gumpoldskirchen and Pfaffstätten. It is 165 metres in length, was built in 1841 and is thus the oldest railway tunnel in Austria. How it came to be built is something about which one can even today only spec- ulate. The most prominent theory is that Austria’s current emperor Ferdinand I. took a sceptical view of the railroad, but nevertheless realised that he need to link the centre of power in Vienna with his port city of Trieste. In order to protect the valuable wine grapes growing in the vineyards around Gumpoldskirchen, the tunnel was bored. The name ‘Kissing Tunnel’ arose because in traversing its length, passengers spent some ten seconds in total darkness – time enough to steal a quick little kiss.

Demeter Demeter is a goddess in Greek mythology, one of the twelve deities who live on Olympus. She governs the fertility of the earth, crops and seeds, and is patroness of the seasons. The philosophy of Rudolf Steiner, managing agricultural enter- prises according to organic, environmentally friendly and sustainable guidelines, derives its name from this goddess, and is simply known by the term ‘Demeter’.

Seite 34 Wine&Partners, Vienna Gumpoldskirchner Wine Blended in a cuvée, the Thermenregion’s indigenous Zierfandler and Rotgipfer yield a full-bodied, aromatic and long-lived white wine. This cuvée was known and loved up until the 1970s as » Gumpoldskirchner« or »Gumpoldskirchner Wein«. The description »Spätrot-Rotgipfer« was used as well. Today these wines are experiencing a renaissance and a resurgence in quality.

Kellereigebäude / Winery Building The Wiener Ratshauskeller opened in Vienna in 1899, an enormously popular restaurant. The community of Vienna, then under mayor Karl Lueger, had the community of Gumpoldskirchen in Niederösterreich establish a great stock of wine to supply the Rathauskeller. In 1939 the cooperative winery of Gumpoldskirchen leased the premises. The cellar suffered badly during the Second World War. In 1958, the city of Vienna bought the premises back and began to renovate and upgrade the premises. At the beginning of the 1990s the wine cellar returned to the possession of the community of Gumpoldskirchen, until Johannes Gebeshuber frst leased it in 1998, subsequently bought it, and made the tradition-rich edifce centre stage for his wineproducing operation.

Rudolf Steiner Rudolf Joseph Lorenz Steiner (1861–1925) was and Austrian journalist and esoteric thinker, who founded the school of Anthroposophy. This spiritual world-view attempts to connect elements of German idealism, Gnosis, Christian mysticism and the teachings of the Far East with scientifc fndings of the time. Based on these teachings, Steiner created infuential ideas for different aspects of life such as pedagogy, art, social studies, medicine, religion and agriculture. His observations in the agricultural sector – working in a sustainable, environmentally friendly and organic manner – developed into the ‘Demeter’ philosophy.

Spätrot »Spätrot« is only one of the many synonyms for the wine grape variety Zierfandler. The name »Spätrot« refers to the late-ripening clusters of the variety, which take on a reddish colouration on the side where the sun’s rays strike them. Spätrot or Zierfandler is one of the indigenous grape varieties of the Thermenregion.

Südbahn The idea of connecting Habsburg Austria’s ruling district with Italy by rail had existed since 1829. Initially the railway segment ran in a north-south direction from Vienna across Niederösterreich down into the Steiermark to Graz. Around 1867, the route was extended to Trieste, then the commercial port of the Habsburg monarchy. Since a portion of the rails ran through the Thermenregion as well, the term ‘wine from the Südbahn’ entered general use. Today the term Südbahn refers to the railway routes Vienna – Bruck an der Mur – Graz – Spielfeld – Strass, and Bruck an der Mur – Klagenfurt – Villach – Thörl – Maglern – Tarvis, and is part of the core network of the Austrian National Railway (ÖBB).

Seite 35 Wine&Partners, Vienna 12. Contact

Weingut Gebeshuber Jubiläumsstrasse 43 A-2352 Gumpoldskirchen www.weingut-gebeshuber.at [email protected]

Wine&Partners Brigitte Riener Peter-Jordan-Strasse 6/3 A-1190 Wien www.wine-partners.at [email protected]

Seite 36 Wine&Partners, Vienna