©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 154

Le Marais, Ménilmontant & Belleville LE MARAIS | MÉNILMONTANT & BELLEVILLE

Neighbourhood Top Five 1 Cimetière du Père surrounding ’ oldest 4 Hôtel de Ville (p160) Lachaise (p157) Admiring square. Living the high life for free incredible sculptures and 3 Musée National Pi- with a world-class art exhi- tomb art while paying your casso (p161) Immersing bition at Paris’ neo-Renais- respects to the rich, famous yourself in the life and art sance city hall followed by and infamous buried in of one of the world’s most twirling on ice or flopping the world’s most visited eccentric modern artists, on a Seine-side beach. cemetery. Pablo Picasso, and admiring 5 Mémorial de la Shoah 2 the museum’s exquisitely (p156) Learning about (p160) Appreciating the grand, 17th-century home. German-occupied Paris and exquisite architecture Holocaust horrors.

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¨¨Pierre Sang Boyer (p170) ll e Local Life ¨

¨Au Passage (p167)  Cafe life No single address promises complete¨ For reviews, see p163.A immersion into local life quite like the open-all-hours Fluctuat Nec Mergitur (p171), an unpretentious cafe with the perfect people-watching terrace. Best Places ¨A market lunch Lunch with locals around communal 6 tables in Paris’ oldest covered market, Marché des to Drink Enfants Rouges (p168). ¨¨Le Mary Céleste (p171) ¨Belleville Leave the crowds behind in this vibrant, ¨¨Wild & the Moon (p171) multicultural and staunchly working-class ‘village’, old ¨¨Fluctuat Nec Mergitur haunt of Édith Piaf and new haunt of trendsetters. (p171) ¨Detox! Juice bars, organic cafes and gluten-free ¨¨L’Ebouillanté (p171) bakeries have arrived in Le Marais, much to the joy of ¨¨Le Petit Fer à Cheval local hipsters who can’t get enough of Wild & the Moon (p171) (p171), Café Pinson (p163) and Chambelland (p169). For reviews, see p171.A

Getting There & Away 7 Best ¨Metro Stops for the lower Marais include Hôtel de Ville Shopping and St-Paul (line 1), (line 11), or Filles du ¨¨Merci (p176) Calvaire and St-Sébastien-Froissart (line 8). For the Haut ¨¨Les Exprimeurs (p176) Marais, get off at Temple (line 3); for Ménilmontant, ¨¨Maison Kitsuné (p175) hop off at Belleville (lines 2 and 11), Couronnes or Ménilmontant (line 2), or Oberkampf (line 5). ¨¨Made by Moi (p179) ¨Bus Le Marais is well served by buses, including bus ¨¨Paris Rendez-Vous (p176) 29 from rue des Francs Bourgeois to Bastille and Gare For reviews, see p175.A de Lyon, and bus 76 from rue de Rivoli to the 20e and Porte de Bagnolet. ¨Bicycle Handy Vélib’ stations: 7 place de l’Hôtel de Ville, 49 rue Rambuteau and place Pasdeloup (next to Filles du Calvaire). In Ménilmontant try 81bis rue Jean- Pierre Timbaud or 137 bd de Ménilmontant.