DIRECTORY © LonelyPlanetPublications simply show upwithout a reservation. if youbookviaphone or,worst-casescenario, inclusive resorts thecountryisfamous for,than are shockinglycheaper, especially soattheall- mum of three daysinadvanceontheinternet other destinations,hotel roomsbooked amini- rates. More 50% lessthanhigh-season sothan rates are sume thatlow-season from 20%to rates are significantlyreduced as- –otherwise properties where thelow-ormedium-season Sometimes apricerange isindicated forthose which fromregion variesslightly toregion. listed inthis bookare season, forthehigh whom costisaconcern.Alltheroomrates wishing tomake decisionsontheflyandfor dearth of optionsforindependenttravelers is relatively there Thatsaid, affordable. isa lodginginthe , Dominican Republic Compared tootherdestinationsinthe CONTENTS Directory Republic Dominican 242 ACCOMMODATIONS oe rvlr 254 253 253 Women Travelers Volunteering 254 250 Visas 253 Travelers withDisabilities 250 Tourist Information Time 253 Telephone 252 Shopping 252 Post 252 250 249 Money 251 Maps 251 Legal Matters 247 248 Laundry 250 248 Internet Access 246 Holidays 250 Gay &Lesbian Travelers Food 249 Festivals &Events Embassies &Consulates Dangers &Annoyances Customs 248 Climate Charts Children 246 Business Hours 245 Activities Accommodations 242 couples privacy. seeking ,are short-timehotels for the outskirtsof mostlarge towns,especially suggestive of intercourse orromanticlove on problem. Thewalledcompoundswithnames the prevalence of prostitutionispartof the in– often tostay orunwise eitherunpleasant extremely cheap hotels (US$20andunder)are America,Europeandelsewhere. ThefewLatin packer culture of thesortfoundinrest of DR hasnoproperhostels, andvery littleback- have good-value several budget options.The inthesoutheast,which Samaná andBayahibe Terrenasincluding Las onthePenínsula de in thecities,butthere are afew exceptions, like you’re especially onvacationnecessarily, are oruninviting.Youwon’tfeel eitherabsent and publicspaceslike lobbiesandlounges erator. Breakfast isgenerally notincluded, not functionwhenthehotel isusingitsgen- air-con are less common,andthelatter may and water TV and24-hourelectricity.Cable mostwillhavethough private bathroom,hot arethis level fairly basic withfew amenities, room that’sUS$40andunder. Mosthotels at inclusive resorts, decidedlymidrange food.In of ofin need updating and,inthecase all- ordinary, sometimesoldfurniture, fixtures it alsomeansthatyoumayfindroomswith areas, forratherinexpensive rates. However, swimming poolandmuch more inresort sometimes breakfast, internet accessanda parking, off-street linens, air-con, cableTV, means thatyoucanfindaroomwithclean ity of Ontheplusside this hotels intheDR. tion inthemidrange category –themajor- togroupaccommoda- to US$80pernight, For the purposes ofFor thepurposes thisbook,budget isany We’ve thefairlylarge used range, US$40 of all,you canbookonline. Reviews are thoroughandindependent. Best insider lowdownon thebestplacestostay. .lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’llfindthetrue, atwww service check outtheonlinebooking ommendations byLonelyPlanetauthors, For more accommodation reviews andrec- BOOK YOURSTAY ONLINE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY , 243 plus Interna- , (popular guitar bachata (popular guitar If you’re looking for a hassle-free vaca- looking for a hassle-free If you’re concentrations as well. Because of its relative concentrations as well. Because its relative of de Samaná was inaccessibility, the Península a until recently; all-inclusives of free largely are in operation now and more handful are near future. in the likely the the appeal of tion, it’s easy to understand and weekday rates are generally uniform, but generally and weekday are rates always ask for a discount if you’ll be staying days. of than a couple for more All-Inclusive Resorts lodging in the Easily the most popular form of In some people’s resort. DR is the all-inclusive synonymous with tourism here minds they’re the prime of – much and for good reason property throughoutbeachfront the country con- The largest is occupied by all-inclusives. at Bávaro/Punta Canacentrations are in the east and Playa Dorada in the north, though around growing in areas are their numbers Bayahibe, Sosúa and Luperón. Río San Juan, Boca Chica and Juan Dolio, both within easy small Santo Domingo, have driving distance of and Dominicans are on holiday. Semana on holiday. and Dominicans are Santa Easter)(Holy Week, is also ie the week before all local schools, busy time, as an extremely many offices and government universities, closed and Dominicans flock businesses are Carnival is cele- areas. and riverside to beaches and hotels in February, every weekend brated La like can fill up in the most popular areas, During Santiago and Santo Domingo. Vega, all these to rise times expect prices by about one-third. Reservations recommended are during these areas, at beach periods, especially for a less luck bargaining and you may have what season, No matter weekend rate. reduced (www.elnacional.com.do) and El Nacional

can be found in many tourist in many tourist can be found and the Miami Herald the New York Times (www.diariolibre.com) , Diario Libre , Hoy (www.hoy.com.do) (www.listin.com.do) DIRECTORY DOMINICAN REPUBLIC •• Accommodations

music based on bolero rhythms); and seven local TV on bolero rhythms); and seven music based cable and satellite networks, though soap operas. and American popular for baseball, movies is very programming (www.ultimahora.com) Ultima Hora tional Herald Tribune, tional Herald in pounds. laundry is measured and at laundromats, where areas. backup and shops have common but many hotels plugs). Power outages are flat-pronged generators. in gallons, except gasoline, which is measured for everything DR uses the metric system The 60 Hz, (110 to 125 volts AC, as the USA and Canada DR uses the same electrical system The and stations, most playing merengue about 150 radio are There El Listín Diario

„ „ „ PRACTICALITIES PRACTICALITIES „

Top-end lodging, US$80 and up, refers Top-end lodging, US$80 and up, refers Seasons Seasons from July to August, when many Europeans December to March, when Canadians and December to March, and their traveling, Americans do most of The DR has two main highThe seasons – from in the Dominican Republic, maybe more than in the Dominican Republic, maybe more pay for. what you you truly get elsewhere, exclusive resorts) there’s a big jump in terms of a big jump in terms there’s resorts) exclusive food and service, furnishings, the quality of and US$200 and up (the ceiling is high for the most this category certainly aren’t luxurious but you certainlythis category aren’t food and serv- count on better can generally From rates. midrange ice than those charging gym, professional servicegym, professional and sometimes an at the low end of All-inclusives attached casino. midrange category, you can expect at least one category, midrange a swimming pool, shops, restaurant, on-site the all-inclusive resorts. For the former, in resorts. the all-inclusive in the the amenities listed addition to all of mostly to a handful of upscale hotels in Santo upscale hotels mostly to a handful of of Domingo and Santiago and a good chunk be remarkably good deals considering what be remarkably It’s important, in however, you get. to keep ac- this style of of mind the peculiar nature details. more for right commodation; see inclusives, especially outside the holidays and especially inclusives, the high season, and can fall into this category pay with a credit card, though it’s a good idea pay with a credit all- A good number of in advance. to check hotel. Most have websites where you can make you can make where websites Most have hotel. reservations and you can often in advance tion for less money than you would spend for tion for less money than a night at a bland international-chain-style some places like Santo Domingo, you can stay Santo Domingo, you some places like buildings with loads colonial-era in restored with comfortable accommoda- character of lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY photos and inaccurate information found fosteredalistic expectations byout-of-focus often people’svacations are ruined byunre- Too homework, it’swell worththeeffort. resort for youoryourfamilyrequires some it canget confusing.Whilechoosing thebest ranging widelyinterms of qualityandcosts– area, orWyndhamsinthesame Barcelos to Bávaro. Often there Melias, willbeseveral tered onsignseverywhere fromPuertoPlata like Melia, and Wyndhamare Barcelo plas- landscape intheDominicanRepublic. Names make forarelaxing and indulgent week. about thecountryoritspeople,butitdoes little timeorroomtoexplore orlearnmuch time. The average atanall-inclusive stay leaves erty, nodoubttheconcierge canarrange atee riding. Ifthere isn’tagolfcourseontheprop- the surroundingarea, citytours andhorseback snorkeling, in diving,tripstoparksandsights variety of tours are onoffer daily,including chairs pools.A andtowels,aswellseveral are located onthe beach andhave lounge beach and poolbars, cafés,discosetc.Most upalmost24/7fromrestaurants, and served wine,mixedbeer, drinks)are alsounlimited around theclock.Drinks(coffee, juice,soda, extra) andfoodisusuallyavailable virtually tions onceyou’ve arrived andsometimescost restaurants sometimesrequire (these reserva- stand-alone andseveral you-can-eat buffet tination. Themajority offer atleastoneall- des- are allavailable inasingleself-contained food anddrinktoactivitiesentertainment, all-inclusive. Everything youcouldwant,from 244 companiesdominate theresortSeveral

„ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ „ Consider thefollowingquestionsifyou’re tryingtochooseanall-inclusive resort: SORTING THROUGHALLTHEALL-INCLUSIVES Entertainment: Are there nightly performances or live-music venues? Are orlive-music Howaboutadisco? Entertainment: there nightlyperformances Drinks:Istop-shelfalcoholincluded?Whataboutbottledbeer? Pools:Howmanypoolsare there? Isloudmusicpipedinthepoolarea allday? club?Babysittingservice? Isthere resort? Children: akids’ Isthisakid-friendly Accommodations:Whenwere theroomslastupdated? Variety ofrestaurants: Do youhave optionsother thanthesameoldbuffet? Size togetfromyourroomthebuffet? Doyouneedtorent oftheresort: agolfcart onthebeach,acrossstreet, Oceanfront:Istheresort abusrideaway? The fineprint:Are alltherestaurants included?Howaboutalcoholicbeverages? Motorized in?Whatsightsare ofthecountryisresort nearby? Location:Whatpart DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY ••Accommodations DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY water sports? can be useful: posting detailed, first-person postingdetailed, can beuseful: re- Page Travel Republic like endupfeeling stranded. you might Websites ers are isolated andwithoutarental vehicle another andlocalrestaurants andshops, oth- resorts are of withinwalkingdistance one regionCana isquite large, andwhilesome considering. Forexample,theBávaro/Punta of thegeographya sense of thearea you’re tohaveDominican Republic,it’sdifficult online. Andifit’syourfirst timevisitingthe is peculiar toamajority of Dominicans. If campgrounds and thewholeideaof camping en route toPicoDuarte, there are noformal Other than the none-too-appealingfree cabins Camping mining factorinwhere you stay. deter-this isaplusorminusanimportant piped inthepoolandbeach areas –whether Loud, throbbingdancemusiciscommonly ings andmattress qualitywon’tbehighlights. paying topdollar,oddsare roomfurnish- and primebeachfront locations.Unlessyou’re also tend to have nicerandlarger poolareas a few more bucks.More expensive resorts most obviousandsignificantreasons tospend restaurants, andfoodqualityisoneof the have better andoneor more buffets àla carte Morestandard. expensive resorts generally hot water, 24-hourelectricityandair-con are solidly midrange TV, toluxurytopend.Cable at various resorts. views fromtravelers whohave recently stayed All-inclusive resorts, perperson, range from dr1.com (www.dr1.com)

(www.debbiesdominicantravel.com) andDebbie’sDominican

lonelyplanet.com

DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY 245 begin, has several rewarding circuits to area circuits to area begin, has several rewarding several are there In the southwest waterfalls. best done on a tour, and hikes recommend de Samaná coastal Península walks in the (especially Las end at beau- Galeras), which beaches. isolated tiful are essential in the highare season at the top when reduced are fees Green courses. and resorts, through many hotels booked available. are and golf vacation packages Hiking its not know for The Caribbean, a region a hik- considered high peaks, isn’t generally sur- ing destination, so many people are in the opportunity prised by the wealth of at 3087m, Dominican Republic. Pico Duarte, the tallest peak in the Caribbean, is the most aerobically, it’s challenging obvious choice; while the scen- and though not technically, ery along the ascent isn’t especially stunning, worth the effort. the views from the top are not up for the summit, the high- If you’re many hikes where Jarabacoa, land town of Signature courses by high-profile designers designers high-profile by courses Signature Jones Sr, Pete Trent Robert Tom Fazio, like and Arnold Faldo Nicklaus, Nick Dye, Jack pace. being built at a steady are Palmer affiliated with (or located are The majority are but resorts, nearby) the top all-inclusive Many alike. open to guests and nonguests the Dog at the Casa of de consider Teeth near La Campo Romana the finest resort ad- course in the country. Almost all take their Caribbean course, setting of vantage (of built on former man- this means many were fairways and greens and feature areas) grove fees with spectacular ocean views. Green US$200, from under US$30 to over range Reservationsplus caddie and/or cart fees. beaten path are the diving and snorkeling and snorkeling the diving are path beaten specifically the northwest, in opportunities the same the national park of Cristi – Monte coral the DR’s most pristine has name there of village – and the small fishing formations – dives The DR also has two cave Punta Rusia. by skilled San Juan can be done one near Río certification, just Open Water with divers Nacional while the second, deep inside Parque only. divers is for advanced cave del Este, Golf golf destina- the premier Known as one of tions in the Caribbean, the DR has more to choose from. courses than two dozen DIRECTORY DOMINICAN REPUBLIC •• Activities

have recommended dive shops. A bit off the shops. A bit off the dive recommended have can explore this area from Las Galeras, Las this area can explore which Río San Juan and Sosúa, all of Terrenas, somewhat less visibility, but makes up for that up for that visibility, but makes somewhat less You formations. varied underwater with more dive shops in Boca Chica and Bayahibe. shops in Boca Chica The dive with north coast has cooler Atlantic waters The southern coast faces the Caribbean and here and clearer is typically warmer the water using else. It’s best reached than anywhere fers divers and snorkelers a number of distinct distinct of a number and snorkelers divers fers and conditions. environments underwater Because it has the Caribbean to the south and the Atlantic to the north and east, the DR of- The Dominican Republic has excellent and The Dominican Republic has excellent and varied options for diving and snorkeling. Diving & Snorkeling Diving & Snorkeling snorkeling and kitesurfing in a single vacation. kitesurfing and snorkeling here the sports and activities listed of Many detail in the Dominican in more covered are ). p59 ( chapter Republic Outdoors ment and activity. Because di- its geographic of small size, it’s possible to and relatively versity combine everything from mountaineering to ecoactivities, enough to leave little time for ecoactivities, enough to leave excite- sunbathing, for those for more looking but there’s also a wide range of sports and of also a wide range but there’s For many people, a trip to the Dominican For Republic equals lazy days spent doing noth- This certainlying on the beach. is an option, ACTIVITIES ACTIVITIES This book lists a number of apartahotels in apartahotels of This book lists a number popular, such units are long-term where areas have hotels ). A number of p189 ( as Cabarete – such units with kitchens a small amount of the listings. in indicated also cases are studio, one-bedroom and two-bedroom apart- and two-bedroom studio, one-bedroom equipped kitchens.ments, usually with fully that can be rented by the week or month; al- that can be rented have which look for ‘apartahotels,’ ternatively, be a convenient and cost-effective way to enjoy and cost-effective be a convenient homes of a number are the country. There If you’ll be in the Dominican Republic for long – you’ll be in the Dominican If an apartment caneven a couple weeks – renting Rental Accommodations Rental Accommodations along deserted beaches – inland, you should – inland, you should along desertedbeaches on you are land plot of the of ask the owner ask and on the beach tent, a pitching before if it police) or local police the Politur (tourist safe. and is allowed you are dead set dead you’ll on sleepingin a tent, you are or mountainluck in rural the most areas have lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY major annual competitionsin bothsportsand wind blowshardest inCabarete, which hosts for windsurfingand kiteboarding, andthe The DRisoneof thetopplaces in theworld Wind Sports Day. Independence overlapsand theseason and withCarnival are agoodidea–thetours are very popular sometimes atvery range. close Reservations and guestsare treated tonumeroussightings, Most tours departfromthetownof Samaná, humpbacks (see the worldtoobserve p145 ). DR isconsidered oneof thebestplacesin numbers andwithsuch regularity thatthe Infact,theycome insuch high the Caribbean. becomesthewhale-watchingof capital Bay From mid-January tomid-March theSamana Whale-Watching Península de Samaná. Terrenas nearLas and PlayaBonita inthe andPlaya Grande, Juan, nearPlayaCaletón good spotswestof Sosúaandeastof RíoSan coast. InadditiontoCabarete, there are some are great breaks tobefoundallalongthenorth country’s bestplacesforsurfing.Infact,there surfing andkiteboarding, isalsooneof the Cabarete, better knownasaplacetogowind- Surfing gorge, makingitafun excursion. half-day anattractiveand rapidsasitwindsthrough portion of have theriver does somenicerolls tively mildaswhite-water adventures go,this river, theRíoYaque delNorte. Whilerela- down theDominicanRepublic’slongest Jarabacoa isthejumping-offpointfortrips River Rafting head outon your own. ofdefinite adventure, sense it’spossibleto a goodmap,Spanish-speaking skillsanda Terrenas inthePenínsula deSamaná.With tours andbike GalerasandLas rentals inLas Thereabout anylengthorskilllevel. are also best bet;tripscanbecustomizedforjust in Cabarete ( p188 ) iswithout questionyour and thenorthsouthwest.IguanaMama roads anddirtpaths inthecentralhighlands Organized tours cover themiles of back bikers avoid thenumberonehazard–cars. dangerous,even activity,whereas mountain Road cycling intheDRisachallenging, Mountain Biking 246 DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY 9am to6pmMondaySaturdayandalso ing. Internet cafésandcallcenters are open from 6pmtolate oruntiltheearlymorn- pect bars, andcasinostobeopen nightclubs the timeof research; youcanex- however, opening andclosingtimes,were influxat ner. Liquor-licensing laws,andhencebar lunch between anddin- mostclose although 10pm orlaterSaturday, Mondaythrough hours, openfrom8amto typicallystaying keep thelongestto Saturday.Restaurants super markets from8amto10pmMonday 9am to7:30pmMondaySaturdayand and shopping mallstend toopenfrom 7:30am to2:30pmMondayFriday.Stores cess. Government officeskeep short hours – but almostallof themoffer 24-hourATM ac- Monday toFridayand9am1pmSaturday, areBanks typicallyopenfrom8amto4pm BUSINESS HOURS sailing. for to master. Cabarete isalsoanexcellentplace itisasportthattakesthough months oryears windsurfing canbegraspedinafew hours, or 12hours isrecommended. Thebasicsof instruction topickupkiteboarding, butnine aminimumofMost peopleneed sixhours’ has goodconditionsformuch of theyear. asts forbothwindsurfingandkiteboarding, Samaná, agrowingdestinationforenthusi- Terrenasto learn.Las onthePenínsula de whowant has numerousschools forthose and exhausting for children. ing thecitiescan be challenging forparents kid-specific parks orattractions,andnavigat- time, therefor everyone. Atthesame are few and thebeaches andoutdoor activitiesare fun its smallsizemeansnolongbusorplane rides, DR isnobetter orworsethanmostcountries– Coke? Forindependent-mindedfamiliesthe Where’s Ihave thebathroom?Can another we goingtoeat?Whatare wegoingtodo? travel questions:Whenis dinner?Where are provide easyanswers to themostvexing of wayforfamiliestotravel,affordable asthey All-inclusive resorts canbeaconvenient and CHILDREN Monday. usually oneweekday, torical monumentsmayclose galleriesandsomehis- museums, although are openfrom9amto6pm(orlater) daily, tions, touroperators andcar-rental agencies onSunday.Mosttouristattrac- half-days

lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY mm mm mm 200 150 100 50 0 200 150 100 50 0 200 150 100 50 0 247 Average Average Average Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 0 0 0 8 6 4 2 8 6 4 2 8 6 4 2 in in in 17m (56ft) 50 50 50 86 68 86 68 86 68 32 32 32 °F °F °F 104 104 104 23m (75ft) 183m (600ft) Temp Temp Temp JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 0 0 0 20 20 20 30 30 30 10 10 10 40 40 40 °C °C °C SANTIAGO SANTO DOMINGO LA ROMANA the rainy season,with strong daily rains from rains gen- The north coast’s to October. May beginning around October erally come later, is Samaná March. and sometimes lasting until with on and off rain most region, the wettest the driest are and March the year (February of drier, and the The southeast is much months). beaches and mild surf, an easy-to-reach ma- an easy-to-reach mild surf, and beaches the in outdoor excursions and good rine park, nearby mountains. CLIMATE CHARTS it’s not charts, Looking at the accompanying hard to see Republic is why the Dominican summer.’ an ‘eternal sometimes said to have temper- to region, region Month to month, Rainfall fairly steady. varies remain atures that should note and travelers more much although it’s a small country, the rainy season parts of in different months peaks in different summer is the country. In Santo Domingo, Travel Travel DIRECTORY DOMINICAN REPUBLIC •• Climate Charts .

Samaná offers whale-watching tours from tours whale-watching Samaná offers Child safety seats are not common, even seatsChild safety are

And, of course, the all-inclusive resorts resorts course, the all-inclusive And, of A number of schools in Cabarete on the in Cabarete schools A number of The central highland town of Jarabacoa has Jarabacoa The central highland town of Breast-feeding babies in public is not totally Breast-feeding sorts in Playa Dorada and Luperón have large large sorts in Playa Dorada and Luperón have at Bávaro and Punta excellent for Cana are activities and families, with myriad children all ages. and programs for young people of Bávaro and Punta Cana,Outside of the re- for children. amazing excur- to mid-March, mid-January teenagers. sions even for jaded Cabarete also has some good tour operators also has some good tour operators Cabarete options fun, outdoorsy with a number of north coast give safe and reliable wind- and reliable safe north coast give lessons to kids. surfing and kiteboarding a plethora of outdoors activities suitable for outdoors a plethora of horseback including hiking, hardy children, and river-rafting. riding museum, an interesting colonial-era fort, a museum, an interesting an aquarium. botanic garden and huge Some places in the DR are better suited for suited better Some places in the DR are Santo Domingo, while big kids than others. sights kids of a number and busy, does have children’s ), including a terrific p89 ( will like children, check out Lonely Planet’s check children, with Children Sights & Activities baby food and diapers (nappies) as in the US. baby food and diapers with advice on traveling For excellent general and use a shawl or other covering. Major gro- Major and use a shawl or other covering. the same sell brands of many of cery stores ing mothers should find a private park bench park bench find a private should ing mothers taboo, but nor is it very common. It is defi- taboo, but nor is it very as in the US not done in restaurants, nitely If necessary,and some other countries. nurs- different cars – you may be able to use – you may be able it at cars different the time. least some of and it’s one that can adapt to a number of to a number of and it’s one that can adapt in private cars, and are almost unheard of in unheard of almost and are cars, in private by law, taxis or buses. Seatbelts required are however, own car seat so if you bring your – rants will have high chairs. rants will have ers will have a harder time finding facilities a harder time finding will have ers restau- smaller and few children designed for programming. That said, not all resorts cater cater That said,programming. resorts not all to so be sure young children, to families with choose does. a place that Independent travel- specific facilities and services,specific facilities from high chairs children’s and care to child in the restaurants Practicalities Practicalities best child- the have resorts All-inclusive lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY 248 duty-free. and mostEuropean coun- Canada allows itscitizens tobringup100cigars customs asmuch astheir own.TheUSA export of cigars, andit’snotwithDominican jewelry iscommonand prized. highly amber polished amberfromtheDR,though facing extinction.Itisillegaltoexport rawun- animalsareshells andbutterfly wings–these forproductsmadefromturtle goes The same ment agreements do–avoid purchasing it. internationalnot forbiditssale, environ- available Dominicanlawdoes and,although cated upon departure. Blackcoraliswidely made frommahoganywoodmaybeconfis- Mahogany trees are endangered andproducts facts –withoutspecialexportcertificates. items andprehistoricings, household arti- that isover 100years old–includingpaint- drugs. psychotropic a prescription foranymedication,especially US$100duty-free.exceeding It’sbesttocarry to 200cigarettes, 3L of alcohol andgiftsnot Dominican Republic.Visitors canbringup restrictions forforeigners arrivinginthe drugs, there are onlyafew specificimport and endangered plants or animals. and drugs,theexportof ancientartifacts animals, fresh fruitorvegetables, weapons tries, withrestrictions ontheimportof live Customs regulations are similartomostcoun- CUSTOMS time to travel. andaffordable hit,itcanbeapleasant doesn’t –aslongastorm inhurricane season even course, sunnydaysoutnumberstormyones, boxedTropical StormOlga(see text, p36 ). Of andthenlater inmid-December byNoel byTropicalStorm country wasdevastated year,asthe2007 wasaparticularlytough theyarethough becomingmore frequent – year, the country.Thebigonesdon’thitevery cane, which theeastern typicallyaffect partof rain stormsandtheoccasionalhurri- intense November December),canbring andeven only anhour or so. storms intheDRtend tobeheavy butlast rain. Butlike manyplacesinthetropics, rain months fromMay toOctober have themost drierstill–inbothareassouthwest even the October (though stormscanoccurinOctober (though Most travelers runintoproblems withthe It isillegaltotake anythingout of theDR Other thantheobvious,like weaponsand Augustto roughly Hurricane season, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY ••Customs DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY Bldg, 4thfl, cnrCalleLuís Thomen& Av Jiménez Moya) Enrique Valverde) CalleLas france-do.org; Damas 42) Bldg, 8thfl,cnrCalleLuís Thomen&Av Jiménez Moya) EMBASSIES &CONSULATES away. right soowed 220.Ifsomething’smissing, say givecidentally’ you120pesoswhenyou’re waiters, drivers taxi andshopowners to‘ac- in math.Butit’snotentirely uncommonfor chase. itisalegitimate Inmanycases error being given theproperchange after apur- to notleave anyvaluablesinside your car. in frontof hishotel inBocaChica–soit’sbest author hadhisrental vehicle stolenfromright theftisnotunheardof Car –this in theDR. information onreporting child prostitution pick-pocketed byprostitutes. See p344 for ing andsomereaders have reported being may get annoyedbypersistent proposition- solomen participatinginit,although those and bars. Prostitutionisdangerous mainlyto cab ifyou’re returning homelate fromclubs a on beachesandconsidertaking atnight, pockets andcamerasnatchers. Avoid walking day, butyoushould alwaysbealertforpick- in mosttouristareas, especiallyduringthe dangerous placetovisit.Street crimeisrare The DominicanRepublicisnotaparticularly DANGERS &ANNOYANCES in. kick tries onlyallow50cigars before dutytaxes Spain Netherlands Japan Italy Germany France Canada Domingo. Santo Allof thefollowingare located in services. you toappropriate third-partyagencies or for help;atthevery least,theycandirect theirembassy should nothesitatetocontact they offer citizens totheircitizens.Thatsaid, Embassies varygreatly interms of theservices 16th fl,Av GustavoAMejía Ricart) Ojo 4) Objío .gc.ca; Av EugeniodeMarchena 39) Ramírez Ramírez 33) Perhaps thenumberoneannoyanceisnot (Map (Map p77 ; (Map (Map pp74-5 ; (Map (Map p77 ; (Map (Map pp74-5 ; Mp pp74-5; (Map (Map (Map pp80-1 ; (Map (Map p77 ; (Map (Map pp74-5 ; Mp pp74-5; (Map % % % % 809-682-0830; CalleRodríguez % 809-686-5778; CalleJuanSánchez % % 809-537-2113; Calle FP Ramírez 809-537-2113; CalleFPRamírez 809) 809-685-1136; sdgo@dfai-maeci % 809-535-6500; Torre BHDoffice 809-567-3365; Torre BHDoffice 809-687-5270; www.amba % 809-542-8949; Torre Piantini, 809-565-5240; Mayor 809-565-5240; Mayor

lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY 249 inclusive resort and when all the food you resort inclusive the room price, into can eat is calculated For travelers eating can seem a bargain. like hoping to eat out on their own, food can be Of course, prices tend surprisingly expensive. touristy areas, higherto be much in heavily as the Zona Colonial in Santo Domingo such different from the one in Santo Domingo in from different that it also includes a harvest and an festival arts-and-crafts fair. MUSIC FESTIVAL LATIN event – held at the annual three-day This huge, Olympic Stadium in Santo Domingo – attracts the top names in Latin music, including jazz, (popular gui- and bachata salsa, merengue tar music based play- on bolero rhythms) Anthony, Enrique Lopez, Marc Jennifer ers. been have Rojas Iglesias and salsa king Tito the past. in featured FOOD to the Dominican Republic Some visitors their all- never experience a meal outside of August, the world’s top merengue bands play merengue August, the world’s top While dancers. for the world’s best merengue the action, you’ll of center is the the Malecón ballrooms and find dance parties in hotel and public on city squares terraces, private bars and makeshift parks, and in restaurants throughout town. October FESTIVAL MERENGUE PUERTO PLATA is festival merengue The country’s other weekheld in Puerto Plata of during the first Plata’s Puerto of length The entire October. traffic. is closed Food to vehicular Malecón the boulevard set stalls up on both sides of are perform on a singers and famous merengue is for the event.This festival erected stage June June FESTIVAL CULTURAL PLATA PUERTO blues, brings merengue, This weeklong festival Plata’s concerts to the Puerto jazz and folk the Malecón. at the end of San Felipe Fuerte tra- Santo Domingo perform Troupes from African and dances, including ditional songs salsa steps. famous spirituals and July–August FESTIVAL SANTO DOMINGO MERENGUE the country’s largest Santo Domingo hosts For two festival. merengue and most raucous July and the beginning of weeks at the end of in Spanish) is cele- in Spanish) , 809-472 7111; Av 27 de Febrero 233) 27 de Febrero 7111; Av 809-472 REPUBLIC DIRECTORY DOMINICAN & Events •• Festivals 809-221-2171; www.usemb.gov.do; www.usemb.gov.do; 809-221-2171; % % (Carnivalmask) competition, caleta

(Map p77 ; p77 (Map

(Map pp74-5 ; pp74-5 (Map cnr Av César Nicolás Penson & Av Máximo Gómez) Máximo & Av Penson César Nicolás cnr Av ing and windsurfing. Inland is somewhat less reserva- but make crowded than the beaches, end up. you where tions early, no matter However, most water sports are prohibited prohibited sports are However, most water during Semana Santa, including scuba div- temporary food standstemporary and loud music day and night a bit off-putting. including most Others, atmosphere. in the lively Dominicans, revel much of Latin America. Many foreign travelers travelers foreign Latin Many of America. much innumerable may find the crowded beaches, beach towns, but also those near lakes, rivers rivers towns, but also thosebeach near lakes, – is thoroughly with inundated or waterfalls during ‘Holy Week,’ Dominican vacationers holiday in the country and travel the biggest SEMANA SEMANA SANTA – mainly the Any place that has access to water The day is marked by street celebrations and celebrations by street The day is marked military parades. March making it the only Latin American country whose does independence celebration not from European colonial rule. mark a break February 27 is the day, in 1844, that the DR 27 is the February independence from its neighbor, regained only a year later submitted to Haitian rule to to Haitian submitted only a year later itself). by Spain (or else Haiti reinvasion avert The Dominican Republic declared its inde- The Dominican Republic declared 1821, but pendence from Spain in November INDEPENDENCE DAY INDEPENDENCE DAY in Santiago ( p209 ), Cabral, Monte Cristi and ), Cabral, Monte p209 in Santiago ( La Vega ( p223 ). outside of Santo Domingo ( p90 ), all of which which ), all of p90 Santo Domingo ( outside of celebrated are or March, held in February are and the craftsmanship is truly astounding. and the craftsmanship most traditional Carnivals and The largest the event. Masks and costumes figure promi- and costumes figure the event. Masks evennently in all – Santiago hosts an inter- national many minor ones) has Carnival celebrations, lending unique twists and traditions to each last weekend of the month or the first week- month or the first the of last weekend city (and Almost every major March. end of try every Sunday in February, culminating in culminating in try every Sunday in February, blow out in Santo Domingo on the a huge Carnival (or Carnaval fervor with great brated throughoutcoun- the FESTIVALS & EVENTS & EVENTS FESTIVALS February CARNIVAL UK USA lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY Columbus Day Our LadyofMercedes Day Restoration Foundation ofSociedad laTrinitaria Labor Day Day Pan-American Santa Semana Independence Day,Carnival Day Duarte Our LadyofAltagracia Day Kings Epiphany/Three New Year’s Day any triptothis holiday-happy island. weekend inFebruary andare of ahighlight processionsare Carnival heldevery traffic. (especially onIndependenceDay)canblock andparades ums andgalleriesmaybeclosed, banks, government officesandsomemuse- should notdisruptyourtravel plansmuch – mostholidaysOther thanSamanaSanta, HOLIDAYS (www.planetout.com) Gay mation fortheDominicanRepublicare websites with gay-specificlistingsandinfor- pay more foraroomwithtwo. Twogood you’ll though room withjustonebed,even Two menmayhave troublegetting ahotel men orwomenare rare andquite taboo. opendisplaysofelse, between affection much toforeigners astolocals.Everywhere alsohave Cana gayvenues,Punta catering as creet. Bávaroand Santiago,PuertoPlata, itsgayclubsare even though relatively dis- the mostopencommunityinSantoDomingo, lesbians. Gayandlesbiantravelers willfind aboutgaysand but stillfairlyclosed-minded open about andsexuality, heterosexual sex As awhole,theDominicanRepublicisquite GAY &LESBIANTRAVELERS the DR, see p66 . For more informationonfoodanddrinkin to US$15)andtopend(US$15above). budgettax: (lessthanUS$5),midrange (US$5 this bookrefer tothecostof amaindish with pricey lobster meals.Thelistingcategories in from inexpensive dishesto pizzaandpasta $6. Many restaurants have arange of options, at mostrestaurants willcostaminimumof cafeteria-style eateries, amealwithoutdrinks outside ofHowever, and informalfoodstands cheaper insmalltownsandisolated areas. (comparable toUSandEuropeanprices), 250

(www.guiagay.com, inSpanish) OIIA EULCDRCOY • a eba rvlr &Lesbian Travelers ••Gay DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY May 1 May January26 October 12 October March/April January1 August16 . April 14 April September 24 September January21 January6 February 27 andPlanetout.com July16 Guia

offer free wi-fi access for guests. and manyhotels here, themajority midrange, ample, tend tobemore connected thanothers Terrenas onthePenínsula deSamanáforex- towns,Las and notinguestrooms.Certain nal inpublicspaceslike thelobby orthecafé free forguestsonlyhave asig- offer theservice (around US$12)foraccess.Many others that jority of theall-inclusives charge dailyfees thema- some placewithasignal.However, laptops won’thave togofarbefore finding resorts thecountry.Travelers throughout with prevalent, especiallyintop-endhotels and also operate as call centers. inresortbe higher areas. Mostof cafés these ices likecan printingorburningCDs.Rates access theinternet, more foradditionalserv- Most caféscharge US$1toUS$4perhour webcams forphoneandchateven programs. USBas CDburners, compatibility, high-speed connections are increasingly thenorm,aswell internet cafés,where broadband high-speed The DominicanRepublichasnoshortage of INTERNET ACCESS Day Christmas Constitution Day All Saints’Day UN Day always a good ideatocarry a photocopy. you’re notrequired tohave iton you, butit’s yourpassport– operate. Theymayasktosee a policeofficerstops you,bepolite andco- as littleinteraction withthem aspossible. If American countries,butyoustillwant tohave reliable astheircounterparts inotherLatin Policía Nacionalare notascorruptandun- referred tobyitsabbreviation ‘Politur’).The Policía Turística(touristpolice,commonly the PolicíaNacional(nationalpolice) andthe The DominicanRepublichastwopolice forces– LEGAL MATTERS early. off is usuallyavailable ifyoudropyourclothes and cancostUS$2toUS$7.Same-dayservice load isusuallyupto14lb(sometimes18lb), load, ratherthanbythepoundorkilo–a underwear andT-shirts. Somecharge bythe pay US$0.75toUS$1.50perpiece,foreven per piece,which addsupvery to fast.Expect Most laundromatsandhotels intheDRcharge LAUNDRY Wi-fi accessisbecomingmore andmore October 24 October November1 December25 November6 lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY

251 Instituto Geográfico , sells a great five- , sells a great publishes and sells publishes the 809-682-2680; El Conde btwn Las Damas & 809-682-2680; El 8am-6pm Mon-Fri) % h 8:30am-5:30pm Mon-Fri)8:30am-5:30pm withdrawing sales tax directly from credit- withdrawing sales tax directly card transactions will sim- means merchants the bill. to ply add the cost directly Moneychangers you in a will approach Moneychangers unlikely They are tourist centers. number of about where and when you withdraw cash – at about where town in a bad part of night on a dark street not in are is not the ideal spot. Most ATMs the bank itself, booth accessible but in a small 24 hours). (and thus available from the street Unless otherwise all banks listed indicated have ATMs. Credit Cards becoming more and debit cards are Credit common among Dominicans (and more Visa for usewidely accepted by foreigners). common than more are and MasterCard in areas accepted Amex but most cards are not all busi- by tourists. Some but frequented pur- for credit-card nesses add a surcharge policy of (typically 16%) – the federal chases while paper money comes in denominations while paper money comes Many 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1000 pesos. of businesses, most including tourist-related list prices in and top-end hotels, midrange but accept pesos at the going US dollars, exchange rate. ATMs common in the Dominican are ATMs without question, the best Republic and are, way to obtain Dominican pesos and manage your money on the road. Banks with reli- include Banco Popular, Banco able ATMs Banco de Reservas,Progreso, Banco León country, be smart in any As and Scotiabank. h towns cities and maps of most comprehensive in the DR. produces a high-quality map Borch and in bookstores. online the DR available of map, the For a frame-quality (Map pp80-1 ; del Puerto; Av US$35. for map panel, 1m-by-1.5m MONEY The Dominican monetary unit is the peso, by the symbol RD$ (or sometimes indicated di- just R$). Though the peso is technically (cents) per peso, vided into 100 centavos to the nearest usually rounded prices are coins, and five-peso one- are There peso.

(Map pp80-1 ; (turnoff),desvío vaya preguntando derecha (straight), derecha Mapas GAAR (left), DIRECTORY DOMINICAN REPUBLIC •• Maps derecho literally literally Rusia?,’ Punta ‘¿Para izquierdo

809-688-8004; www.mapasgaar.com.do; Espaillat; 809-688-8004; www.mapasgaar.com.do; In Santo Domingo,

Prostitution is big business in the DR.Prostitution is big business Politur officers, on the other hand, are gen- are the other hand, on officers, Politur (ask along the way). (ask along % (right), (lots olla (lots or mucha pozo (sign), mucho letrero potholes or holes) and of listen for are for are listen ‘For Punta Rusia?’ To ask about conditions, ‘For Punta conditions, Rusia?’ To ask about bien o malo?’ (Is está you can say ‘¿El camino the road good or bad?) or ‘¿Se puede pasar to pass?). Of (Will my car be able mi carro?’ you’re the directions course, understanding words to some key is half the battle; given Rusia is to ask you’re driving a compact car. The easiest way The easiest way driving a compact car. you’re going to, say, Punta if you’re to ask directions you from getting off track, but it’s also a off track, but it’s also a you from getting road conditions – in good time to ask about made some casesor construction have rain difficultthe roads very to pass, especially if map to the area you’ll be driving in. You you’ll be driving in. You map to the area asking direc- in the habit of should also get Not only will this prevent tions frequently. MAPS MAPS a car, it’s worth buying a good If you rent is illegal. In any case, the line between walking what is legal and illegal, especially as a for- risky. definitely eigner, is interpretation. In fact, the Dominican consu- interpretation. you that prostitution in all forms will tell late is illegal, and the law, while targeted at pimps targeted is illegal, and the law, while is obviously open for some or brothel owners, if the offender didn’t know the prostitute’s didn’t know the prostitute’s if the offender Encouraging or aiding prostitution age. real hands. But there is no law expressly legalizing is no law expressly hands. But there illegal to It is definitely prostitution, either. 18, even of sex with anyone under the age have Tourists picking up willing men or women is Tourists picking up willing is no law that common and, evidently, there is enforced against it, even if money changes will find listed in the destination chapters in the destination chapters will find listed this book. throughout for directions to sights, which bus to take etc. bus to take to sights, which for directions a Politur station, you which cities have Many in the event of theft, assault or if you were the theft, assault or if you were in the event of can equally ask them a scam, but you victim of can usually be found near major tourist sights found near major can usually be contact should You Politur first and centers. is specifically to help tourists. Many speak to help tourists. Many is specifically other than Spanish. a language a little bit of and shirts with blue insignia They wear white erally friendly men and women whose and women friendly men erally job lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY able everywhere, fromthemost modest favorite. your to experimentwith different brandstofind center of andagoodplace tobaccoplantations Montecristo andPreferidos. Santiagoisthe brands are Macanudo, Davidoff, Fonseca, cigars intheworld;someof thebetter-known The DRis oneof thelargest producers of SHOPPING all thepackagingand tracking materials. another localdelivery agency, which willhave they are withMetro usuallyaffiliated Pac or offices inSantoDomingo;smallertowns, Federal Express. Theyeach have stand-alone an international courier,such asUPS,DHLor documents andpackages, definitely gowith but bynomeansfoolproof. Forimportant postcards are more likely toarrive thanletters – isrelatively reliablemore – forEurope. Service America,slightly card toNorthandCentral apost- Saturday. ItcostsaboutUS$0.75tosend Monday toFriday,and8amnoononlyon are typically8amtonoonand2pm5pm There are townandhours postofficesinevery POST purchased the checks. thereceiptin somecases, fromwhenyou may berequired toshowyourpassportand, bio exchanged atmostbanksand traveler’sfulness. Thatsaid, checks canbe traveler’s checks have lostmuch of theiruse- With theadvent of reliable ATM networks, Traveler’s Checks earn no other salary. should alsotiptourguides,someof whom atresorts. forthehousecleaner night You ing yourbagsandtoleave US$1toUS$2per taxes. It’scustomarytotipbellhopsforcarry- rooms –askwhetherthelisted rates include There’s onhotel a23%tax exceptional service. toleaveple choose anadditional10%tipfor somepeo- among thewaitandkitchen staff; charge. tobedivided Thelatter issupposed (ITBIS)anda10%service tax a 16%sales There are twotaxes onfoodanddrinksales: Taxes &Tipping at anATM, abankoranexchange office. rates, andamuch however, securer transaction, to beaggressive. Youwillget equallyfavorable 252 Dominican rumisapopular item, avail- (exchange booths) intouristcenters. You DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY ••Post DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY casas decam- col- of anyitem madeof turtleshell –typically turtlesareof sea endangered, sosteerclear and youshould avoid buyingthem.Allspecies from endangered plantandanimalspecies, (p161). Terrenas or theHaitian ArtGalleryinLas Caraibes galleriesinSantoDomingo( in several p99 ) factory. More professional piecescanbefound since theirproductionresembles acar-parts very generic andformulaic,unsurprising tourist destinationinthecountry.Mostare paintings thatare invirtuallyevery forsale find objects madeof horn,wood and leather. likely tobegoodfortheother. Youcanalso sold together, soashopthat’sgoodforoneis Amberandlarimarare typicallyin theDR. mineral withwhite streaks –andisfoundonly isanotherbeautifulmaterial –ablue Larimar boxedhelp onchoosing apiece,see text, p173 . excellent piecethat’sinyourpricerange. For you’llfindan but ifyoulookaroundenough, of thejewelrymadefromambervarieswidely, and otherthingstrappedinside).Thequality number of plantmaterial ‘inclusions’(insects, world, bothforitsvarietyof colorandthehigh brands andvarieties, see p67 . bar) toairportduty-free shops.Formore on mado (combinationcornerstore, groceryand and travelers with global-roaming-enabled as dual call centers. center oraninternet café–virtuallyall operate deComunicacionescall at aCodetel Centro Europe US$0.50;perminute toHaiti US$0.50) per minute toUSAUS$0.20;perminute to the DRistopayperminute (average rates other companies and competitors. ket). are Orange, TricomandCentennial the CODETEL (fixed lineandbroadbandmar- toClaro(wireless division)and of itsservices the future. In2007Verizon changed thename more mergers, acquisitionsanddivestments in munications companiesandthere couldbe There somefluxregarding hasbeen telecom- TELEPHONE say. owners black orwhite coral,despite whatsomestore products madefromAmericancrocodilesand from combs andbracelets–orfooddishesmade Dominican amberisamongthebestin (mobile)phonesare veryCell popular The easiestwaytomake aphonecallin Many souvenirs soldintheDRare made You can’tpossiblymiss theHaitian-style (turtle meat). The same goes for carey goes (turtlemeat).Thesame

lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY 253 Dirección 809-508-2555; % at least two weeks (Map pp74-5 ; 8am-2:30pm Mon-Fri) h To extend your tourist card anywhere from anywhere your tourist card To extend 15 days to three months the official way, you the official way, you months 15 days to three must apply in Santo Domingo at the General de Migración 30 de Mayo & Héroes de cnr Av www.migracion.gov.do; Luperón; You’ll be your original card expires. before port is necessary. port Tourist Card Extensions A tourist card is good for up to 30 days from issue, though the exact length de- of the date on the card pends on what the officer writes If you need just a little extra when you enter. time, it’s usually unnecessary to formally a ‘fine’ of you’ll be charged – instead extend about US$5 for every month you overstayed when you depart from the country. Another the is to leave your time easy way to extend – and then to Haiti DR briefly – most likely a brand- issued point you’ll be at which return, to pay en- new tourist card. (You may have in both countries, fees trance and departure of course.) with disabilities some long and should expect but also quick and friendly help curious stares, and passersby. strangers from perfect VISAS in travelers foreign would-be of The majority do not needthe Dominican Republic to ob- tain visas arrival. Tourist cards (you prior to flight) for your return this don’t need to retain issued for US$10 upon arrival to visitors are Australia, Austria, Belgium,from Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Denmark, France, Israel, Italy, Japan, Germany, Ireland, Greece, the Netherlands, Portugal, Russia, Mexico, South Africa, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the UK and the USA, among many others. origin, a valid pass- your country of Whatever TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES DISABILITIES WITH TRAVELERS Latin well are countries American Few with disabilities, the and for travelers suited On the Republic is no different. Dominican can be ideal resorts all-inclusive other hand, as with mobility impairments, for travelers and day- and nighttimeroom, meals, activities are and there all within close proximity, are staffyou navigate to help plenty of members a few have resorts around the property. Some doors rooms, with larger wheelchair-friendly And, it should and handles in the bathroom. to be extremely be said, Dominicans tend Travelers people. helpful and accommodating 1 + 809 1 + 809 % DIRECTORY DOMINICAN REPUBLIC •• Time

200 for their prefix (not the area code). area (not the 200 for their prefix A service-oriented tourist office is located Phone cards to be usedPhone public phones at

There are also information counters at at also information counters are There Luperón near Puerto Plata. both Aeropuerto Internacional Las Internacional Américas both Aeropuerto Gregorio Internacional and at Aeropuerto country, where they exist, are listed in the in the listed they exist, are country, where Information sectionsappropriate within the destination chapters. in the heart of the Zona Colonial, on Calle in the heart of Isabel La Colón (for Católica beside Parque ). The location and busi- p78 details, seemore tourist offices throughout the of ness hours offer maps, bus schedules or a calendar of or a calendar of maps, bus schedules offer be handy. can upcoming events, which check with other sources. Some tourist offices sources. Some tourist offices with other check are actually helpful is another question en- are the information you treat In general, tirely. double- and at tourist offices skeptically get by tourists has a tourist office, and a number by tourists has a tourist office, and a number towns do as well. Whether they less-visited of Almost every city in the DR that’s frequented Almost every city in the DR that’s frequented in October. TOURIST INFORMATION and Canada, it’s in the same time zone as New York, Miami and Toronto from the Sunday in April to the last Sunday first However, because the country does not ad- just for daylight time as do the USA saving Time. In autumn and winter it is one hour winter In autumn and Time. New York, Miami and Toronto. ahead of TIME TIME Mean Greenwich behind The DR is four hours % There are no regional codes. Local calls cost codes. Local no regional are There and national calls are US$0.14 per minute have numbers Toll-free US$0.21 per minute. for all calls within the DR, evenfor all calls within the local ones. are available in denominations of RD$50, RD$50, in denominations of available are and RD$250. RD$100, RD$150, RD$200 dial Remember that you must phones at Claro can be bought for US$10. boughtphones at Claro can be phones can be bought at Orange with a with a phones can be bought at Orange than US$30; used SIM card for less prepaid tup kit US$10). If it’s CDMA, it will work work If it’s CDMA, it will tup kit US$10). Tricom or Centennial.with Claro, New cell and you can unlock it, you useand you can SIM card a star- or Claro (prepaid bought Orange from cell-phone carrier for details on rates and and carrier for detailscell-phone rates on fees that per-minute – be aware accessibility phone, a GSM can be exorbitant. If you have phones can often receive and make cell- make and receive can often phones with your checking calls. It’s worth phone lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY frig etc. farming microfinancing aslittleUS$300toassistlocalswithbee through it concentratesonbiodiversityandconservation and oldestNGOinthesouthwest.BasedSantoDomingo, speak good Spanish, it’s worth speak goodSpanish,it’sworth contact. making foraninternship and capacity islimited.Ifyou’re looking to reduce erosion.Few theirwayhere, and volunteersmake gardeningonmountainsideterraces land, includingmarket sustainablewaystousethe helps localfarmersdevelop 50, EnsancheParaíso, SantoDomingo)ThisnationwideNGO % Punta Cana Ecological Foundation Ecological Punta Cana Grupo Jaragua Project DREAM CEDAF that acceptvolunteers include the following: of themoreSeveral organizations established are February, April,May, AugustandOctober. –andthebestmonthsinstance forfieldwork offer –helpingbiologistshatchfor turtleeggs, is occasionallysomewildlife volunteeringon sure themwellaheadof tocontact time. There should have atleastamonthtoplaywith.Be work), youmaybeof tothem.You someuse and don’tmindsomeelbowgrease (oroffice ing programs,butifyouspeakgoodSpanish ecotourism. There are noformalvolunteer- networks attempting sustainable todevelop Many of theNGOs are primarilycommunity VOLUNTEERING is agoodwaytoblowan entire day. later. officetwoweeks the same Theprocess new touristcardwillbeready forpickupat yourself. Thefee isUS$10;yourpassportand tion page(s) andtwopassport-sizephotosof port, aphotocopyof yourpassport’sinforma- in Spanish only–andtopresent yourpass- required tofilloutaform–usuallyavailable 254 excellent workinthe Cabarete schools. managedNGO,whichotherwisedoes to avoidthisrigidly Mentoring; and preserving naturalenvironmentinPunta and preserving Cana area. targetedatrestoring intheDR; projects able development 9221; www.puntacana.org) Oneofthepioneerssustain- 809-894-0005; www.cedaf.org.do; JoséAmadoSoler DOMINICAN REPUBLIC DIRECTORY •• Volunteering ••Volunteering DOMINICAN REPUBLICDIRECTORY (Centro para el Desarrollo Agropecuario yForestal; (CentroparaelDesarrolloAgropecuario % 809-571-0497) Nonconformistswillwant (www.grupojaragua.org.do) Thelargest (Dominican Republic Education& (DominicanRepublic ( % 809-959- network of small NGOs. % encounter. rare though Robberyandassaults, menorsituationsthey instincts about certain they wouldinothercountries,orignore their travelers precautions shouldn’ttake thesame have to men’s ‘appreciation.’ strong negative reaction someforeign women male andfemale, are by the somewhatbaffled among Dominicans.Many Dominicans, is fairlyordinarymale–female interaction travelers experienceasunwanted attention muchDominicans. Indeed, of whatwomen some toforeign womenthanitistomany checked outbymenisclearlymore bother- what you’ve got,andhaving yourbackside fashion intheDRisallaboutaccentuating the womanpassingby.Thenagain,women’s ter whattheage, size,shape ornationalityof are alsoconsummate butt-lookers, nomat- preciosa’ of stares andadmiringcommentslike ‘Hola, a fairamountof attention, usuallyintheform Dominican Republicshould expecttoreceive WOMEN TRAVELERS Women traveling withoutmeninthe SOEPA REDOTOR REDEC night, anddon’thitchhikenight, or camp alone. avoid isolated streets andplaces,especiallyat precautions whentravelingsense byyourself; message. toavoidthewrong sending little conservatively don’t wantextramaleattention should dress a jewelry orelectronics.Foreign womenwho way,itisn’tagoodideatoflashmoney, same aseasiertargets thanmen.Inmuchseen the against tourists,dooccurandwomenare often sustainable tourism projects. projects. sustainable tourism Promotesalternativeand 487-1057; [email protected]) ance and development atCachóte(seeboxed ance anddevelopment text, p235 ). But that is not at all to say that women thatwomen But thatisnotatalltosay Beyond that,simplyfollowbasiccommon- Beyond 809-913-1587; Barahona) Foundedin2006,thisisa 809-913-1587; Barahona) ( (Red Enriquillo de Ecoturismo Comunitario; deEcoturismo Enriquillo (Red % (Red DominicanadeTurismo (Red Rural; (Hello, beautiful).Dominican men 809-899-4702) Its biggest project ismainten- 809-899-4702) Itsbiggestproject

lonelyplanet.com % 809- DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION 255 DEPARTURE TAX DEPARTURE US$20 departure tax is usually already The airline ticket, included in the cost of your leaving by Those rare. and exceptions are US$25. routinely charged land or sea are your tourist card You don’t need to retain the country by air. leaving if you are Passport Passport AIR AIR Airports & Airlines airports, thoughThe DR has 10 international primarily used for them are of at least three The procedure is the same if you arrive at is the same if you arrive The procedure Puerto Plata the smaller airports like one of or Punta Cana, though is easily the latter the tour- of busiest airport in the country in terms even less scrutinizing ist arrivals. Officers are up but the queues may become backed there, to pause for an obligatory asked as you are in some photograph with two woman dressed of garish island costume reminiscent kind of Banana mascot. the Chiquita passport a valid must have visitors All foreign the DR. room for to enter Be you have sure both entry and exit stamps, and that your be- passport is valid for at least six months for p253 See dates. yond your planned travel on visas. information disembarked, you are guided to the immigra- you are disembarked, a tourist card you must buy where tion area to pay in US dollars. expected (US$10). You’re but you lose accepted, out Euros and GBP are people report a few substantially on the rate; thoughaccepted, that DR pesos (RD$) are filled in this is not official policy. Once you’ve the one of the card, join the queue in front of assume They will often immigration officers. visiting for two weeks or less, and give you are you just 15 days, so if you plan on staying let the officer know this right away – longer, you up to 30 days on a he is allowed to give is a breeze. entering tourist card. In general, 255 259 260 255 257 he details given in in he details given

THINGS CHANGE... is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly larly vulnerable to change. agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket you understand how a fare sure of the you may buy) works and be aware for international security requirements T Shop carefully. travel. as pointers should be regarded this chapter for your own careful, not a substitute and are research. up-to-date Entering the Country Entering Getting There & Away There Getting Air 255 Air 256 Land 257 Sea Around Getting 257 Air 258 Bicycle 258 Boat 258 Bus Motorcycle & Car Hitchhiking260 Local Transportation

ENTERING THE COUNTRY ENTERING THE COUNTRY GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY tries arrive there daily. Passing through im- Passing daily. there tries arrive simple process. Once migration is a relatively York, Newark, Miami, Philadelphia, San Juan York, Newark, Miami, Philadelphia, () and various European coun- Aeropuerto Internacional Las Américas. Las Internacional Américas. Aeropuerto Flights from Boston, Fort Lauderdale, New Dominican Republic arrive by air. Independent by air. Dominican Republic arrive at the main inter- typically arrive travelers Santo Domingo, national airport outside of The vast majority of tourists entering the the tourists entering of The vast majority www.lonelyplanet.c om/travel_services. Flights and tours can be booked online at online at can be booked Flights and tours CONTENTS

Transportation Transportation Dominican Republic Dominican Republic DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION including astrongwi-fisignalonce past security. withmodernfacilities, country’s maininternationalairport, 549-0081) Located20kmeastofSantoDomingo. The Pet Plata. Puerto alsofliestoSantoDomingo, Santiagoand Rico); (Puerto .aa.com; hub:NewYork)FliestoSamaná viaSanJuan that handlesonly propeller aircraft. to March) season(January whale-watching mostly during % flights fromtheUS,Canada and Europe. charter La RomanaandCasadeCampo;handlesprimarily Casa deCampo; services domestic airlines. thisairport ofSantoDomingoinHiguero, 16km north Joaquin Balaguer,Higuero; % Juan, Rico. Puerto EuropeancitiesandSan international flightsfromvarious 40kmwestofSamanáthathandles 338-0094) Newairport American Airlines American .com; hub: Kingston) Air Jamaica Air France Air Europa Air Canada Aeropostal to International carriers withservices the DR: DOMINICAN REPUBLIC AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROMTHE PuntaCana Internacional Aeropuerto Montez María Internacional Aeropuerto LasAméricas Internacional Aeropuerto LaRomana Internacional Aeropuerto LaIsabela Internacional Aeropuerto Luperón Gregorio Internacional Aeropuerto ElPortillo Internacional Aeropuerto ElCatey Internacional Aeropuerto Cibao Internacional Aeropuerto ArroyoBarril Internacional Aeropuerto 2006). in Herrera outsideof SantoDomingoclosed (Aeropuertodomestic flights Internacional 256 busiest airport in busiest airport the country. BávaroandPunta Cana,andisthe 959-2473) Serves have aregular commercialpassenger service. % flights. season.Usedmostlyfor whale-watching during domestic fromLas Terrenasonly afew kilometers thatgetsbusiest Santiagoandthe 8072) Serves interior. .com; hub: Caracas) hub: Paris) hub: Toronto) .com; hub: Mallorca) 809-248-2718) West of Samaná, a small airstrip used 809-248-2718) WestofSamaná,asmallairstrip 809-586-1992) Serves Playa Dorada and Puerto PlayaDoradaandPuerto 809-586-1992) Serves Plata. 809-524-4144) Located 5km from Barahona; doesnot 809-524-4144) Located5kmfromBarahona; GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING (AF; (AEA; (AEA; (AC; (VH; (VH; (JM; (JM; % % % % % % 809-689-1548) Modern airport near 809-689-1548) Modernairport (AA; 809-686-8432; www.airfrance.com; 809-686-8432; www.airfrance.com; 809-541-2929; www.aircanada.ca; 809-549-8067; www.aeropostal 809-683-8020; www.aireuropa 809-872-0080; www.airjamaica % % 809-542-5151; www 809-567-3900) Located (STI; (AZS; (EPS) Airstrip (EPS)Airstrip % (JBQ; aka DR aka (JBQ; (LRM; aka (LRM;aka (SDQ; (PUJ; (ABA; % 809-581- (BRX; % % 809- (POP; 809- 809- (Trinidad). of andPort Santo DomingotoHavana,Kingston Spain .com; hub:Panama flightsaweekfrom City)Several Munich) hub: Frankfurt) Spirit Airlines Spirit Mexicana Holland Martinair Lufthansa andAustria FlightsfromGermany dorf) to Samaná. LTU Lan Chile Orlando to Santo Domingo. from Santiago andSantoDomingo. Alsononstopservice Plata, betweenJFKandPuerto New York)Nonstopservice Blue Jet Iberia Delta Air Cubana COPA Airlines .continental.com; hub: Newark) Continental Airlines Condor Comendador (aka Elías Piña) and Belladère, Comendador (akaElíasPiña) andBelladère, risk of theft. Thethirdbordercrossingisat ofcause theenormous crush of peopleandthe ing onmarket days(Monday andFriday)be- youshouldtry toavoidside); however, cross- completion of ontheHaitian anewhighway Cap-Haïtien (onlyasix-hourdrive withthe which Santiago and isontheroadbetween northern crossingatDajabón–Ouanaminthe, Domingo andPort-au-Prince. Alsobusyisthe in thesouth,onroadthatlinks Santo ficked isattheJimaní–Malpasse crossing Haitibetween The mosttraf- andtheDR. There are three pointswhere youcancross LAND Varig US Airways Swissport and Frankfurt to Puerto Plataand toPuerto and Frankfurt Punta Cana. .martinair.com; hub:Amsterdam)FlightsfromAmsterdam hub: Mexico hub: Mexico City) Madrid) dale toSantoDomingoand Punta Cana. Lauder- Lauderdale)NonstopflightsfromFort .com; Fort Santiago) Domingo and . flightsbetweenSanto direct hub: Havana)Twice-weekly airlines and charters. ofvarious andothergroundservices Handles ticketing Philadelphia) Paolo) (LT; (DL; (RG; (IB; (DE; % (B6; (LAN; % ( % % (MX; (LH; (CU; (US; % 809-586-4075; www.ltu.com;hub:Dussel- % % 809-200-9191; www.delta.com; hub: Atlanta) (CM; 809-563-3434; www.varig.com; hub: Sao 809-508-7979; www.iberia.com; hub: 809-508-7979; www.iberia.com; (NK; % % 809-508-2277; www.swissport.com) 809-508-2277; www.swissport.com) % 809-689-9625; www.condor.com; hub: % % 809-549-1793; www.jetblue.com; hub: 809-549-1793; www.jetblue.com; (MP; % 809-541-1016; www.mexicana.com; 809-689-9625; www.lufthansa.com; 809-689-9625; www.lufthansa.com; % 809-689-2116; www.lan.com;hub: 809-227-2040; www.cubana.cu; 809-540-0505; www.usair.com; hub: (CO; 809-472-2672; www.copaair 809-381-4111; www.spiritair % % 809-621-7777; www 809-262-1060; www

lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION Santo 257 809-724-8771); San Juan, Puerto % Santiago ( 787-832-4400); (www.ferriesdelcaribe.com); offers a passenger and car offers

% 809-567-1195; www.aerodomca 809-826-4222; www.aircentury.com) 809-552-1333; www.takeoffweb.com) Of- % % ( 809-688-4400); (

% (

% 787-725-2643) % Ferries del Caribe Rental vehicles are not allowed to cross to cross not allowed are Rental vehicles other. In practice, however, the inadequate however, In practice, the inadequate other. some with limited road network will behoove expensive time to consider flying. It’s a more and logical one a convenient option, but often road rage. day of you an entire that can save Most one-way flights cost US$35 to US$170. and air taxi com- The main domestic carriers the following: panies include AeroDomca Air Century Take Off de Samaná and elsewhere. Sans Souci, the Souci, the Sans de Samaná and elsewhere. a mas- undergoing Santo Domingo port, is including new docking areas, renovation, sive center. convention and a hotels terminals, Domingo ( Mayagüez, Puerto Rico ( Rico ( serviceferry between Santo Domingo and about The trip takes Rico. Puerto Mayaguëz, times weekly. See and departs three 12 hours details.for ) p101 Santo Domingo ( GETTING AROUND AIR so in theory The DR is a fairly small country, public trans- or take at least it’s easy to drive the country to the portation from one side of from one country into the other, and you you and into the other, one country from need the border authorization to cross special For specific informa- vehicle. with a private border facilities and servicestion about the in destina- relevant the check individual towns, this book. in tion chapters SEA international scheduled The only regularly serviceferry is between the DR and Puerto cruise However, international ships on Rico. Caribbean in Santo commonly stop tours Domingo, Cayo Levantado in the Península .com) Scheduled flights between La Isabela outside Santo (US$75). Charter Domingo to El Portillo near Las Terrenas any airport. flights can be booked to almost Charter flights from La Isabela outside Santo Domingo. Charter flights from La Isabela outside Santo fers the widest selectionfers of scheduled flights, including Las Americas in Santo Domingo to El Portillo near Las Terrenas Cana to El Portillo($80), Punta (US$116) and Puerto Plata a small, efficient office to La Romana (US$170). There’s with English speakers As of Brisas in the Plaza in Bávaro. is no office at the Aeropuertoyet there Internacional Las GETTING AROUND •• Air Ayido Tours runs a bus service runs a bus Ayido Tours from Cap- Immigration offices on the Dominican side offices on the Dominican Immigration Caribe Tours, Capital Coach Lines and Terra Caribe Capital Tours, Lines and Terra Coach When you enter Haiti, you pay a US$10 you pay a US$10 Haiti, When you enter Tourists leaving the DR will be asked to the DR will be asked Tourists leaving Haïtien to Santiago; see p336 for details. for p336 see to Santiago; Haïtien Haitian vehicle on the other side. other on the vehicle Haitian From the north coast it’s easy enough to reach to a to transfer but then you have Dajabón, (see p102 ) route daily; it’s the most convenient ) route p102 (see via public transportation. Haiti way to reach Bus service the Santo Domingo–Port-au-Prince you extra ‘fees.’ Unless the fees are exorbi- are Unless the fees you extra ‘fees.’ tant, the best thing to do is simply pay up on. move and be. As with Dominican officials, you don’t As be. decide to charge if they recourse much have is always best) to smooth your passage if needis always best) to smooth your passage passport and yellow entry card, but are not passport and yellow entry card, but are pay anything. That said, to supposed to have bills on hand (US cash small it’s wise to have fee. Leaving Haiti, you must present your your you must present Leaving Haiti, fee. leave, and the full US$10 to reenter for no and the full US$10 to reenter leave, can. It’s worth politely than they other reason paid the already pointing out that you have however, In the end, you may have full fee. extra cash. to cough up the charge. However, border officials have been However, border officials have charge. known to ask for an extra US$5 to US$10 to right to reenter at the same point for no extra right to reenter only out of curiosity that a tourist would travel curiosity that a tourist would travel only out of supposedthis way. Officially, to pay you are you the gives the DR, which US$25 to leave if they were leaving via an airport. However, leaving if they were since it’s usually this shouldn’t be a concern produce their passports and their tourist cards produce their passports questions than more to be asked likely and are breaks can cause delays at the border. can cause delays at breaks an extra night and crossing in the morning, lines and immigra- Also, long choose the latter. long lunch early or take tion officials who leave a bus well before dark. When deciding between dark. When a bus well before or staying afternoon either crossing in the late arrive as early as possible, so you are sure to get sure as early as possible, so you are arrive through both countries’ border offices and onto are usually open 8am to 6pm, and 9am to 6pm usually open 8am to 6pm, are It’s always a good idea to side. on the Haitian other border crossings, including the one at crossings, including the other border the far south, a in Pedernales–Ainse-a-Pietre smugglers. for popular route dodgiest; having to wade the river or cross to wade the river dodgiest; having Only is also a nuisance. it on a motorcycle to use permitted are and Dominicans Haitians which sees few foreign travelers. It’s the It’s the travelers. sees foreign which few certainly and the three the least trafficked of lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION erators willprovide youwithabike aspart If you’re joiningabike tour,mosttourop- definitely considerbringingyourownbike. travel. Ifyou’re planningamultidayride, rent abike, andnoneare forlong-distance 1st-class buses have toilets in the back and TVs have1st-class buses toiletsintheback andTVs lar toGreyhound inthe US.Virtuallyall buses class )utilizeslarge air-conditioned simi- buses intheDR: ofclasses busservice in placeslike Mexico orBrazil.There are two overnight journeystravelers often encounter relatively smallinsize,there are noneof theepic thecountry.Andsince it’s throughout service The DRhasagreat bussystem, withfrequent BUS route you arrived. have toleave itbehind andreturn bythesame Sabana delaMar witharental vehicle, you’ll here, sounfortunately, ifyouarrive in service are frequently cancelled.There isnocarferry journey issubjecttoweatheranddepartures in thenortheastern partof thecountry. The on opposite deSamaná sidesof theBahía SamanáandSabanadelaMar,ice between senger boatroute intheDRisferry serv- The onlyregularly scheduled domesticpas- BOAT bike day mountain tours; see p189 and p215 . day. There are afew agencies thatoffer multi- topayaroundUS$5US$15per Expect use.) independent hotels offer bicyclesforguests’ resort areas. (Anumberof resorts andafew Terrenas,Las Gallerasandatsomeof the Las of theprice. You’llfindbike-rental outfitsin Jarabacoa andCabarete forjust that ( p64 ). of recommended tours are available from ways canbevery rewarding, andanumber the DR’sbackroadsandlesser-used high- bikingon mountain theleast.However, say situation onthesideof theroadishecticto making frequent unannouncedstops,andthe and slower thancars), andgua-guas (localbuses) cycles (which move faster thanbikes but bikes. numberof Addtothatthehigh motor- are notexactlyaccommodatingtopeopleon well suited forcycling,andDominicandrivers are highways The DR’sundermaintained not BICYCLE directed to personnel. askatthe2nd-floorinformationboothtobe Américas; 258 There are very few placeswhere youcan públicos (private cars operatingastaxis) GETTING AROUND••Bicycle GETTING (1st primera (1st tensive bus line, with service everywhere butthe everywhere tensive busline,withservice south east. de Febrero &Leopoldo Navarro,SantoDomingo)Themostex- in La Romana. SantoDomingoandBávaro withastop Domingo) Connects 682-9670; cnrJuanSánchezRuiz&MáximoGómez, Santo mostly along the Santo Domingo–Puerto mostly alongtheSantoDomingo–Puerto Plata corridor. ninecities, serves inSantoDomingo, Metro Shopping Mall SantoDomingo)LocatedbehindPlaza Central Prats Ramírez, actually avery goodidea,asyougenerally won’t early, bringyourbagsonboardwithyou.Thisis the actualterminal. Ifyouplanongetting off luggage compartmentatanypointotherthan openthe along theway;theywillnot,however, willing todroppassengers offatvariouspoints road topickuppassengers butdrivers are often stopalongthe boarding. Theyalmostnever minals andyoumustbuyyourticket before First-class leave buses fromdesignated ter- FIRST CLASS Classes quality and reliability. virtual rainbowof diversity interms of vehicle more. twocategories there’s Withinthese a tioning, makes fewer stopsandcostsslightly ally anexpreso, four orfiveevery don’t have air-conditioning, naturally. For the majority are caliente (literally ‘hot’),which the way.Gua-guas are dividedintotwotypes– stop topickupanddropoffpassengers along butgomuch moreclass buses slowlyasthey as company hasitsown location. station bus terminals inthemajority of citiesandeach than US$10.Unfortunately, there are nocentral low –themostexpensive 1st-class ticket isless in theaislesshowingmovies enroute. Fares are Terra Bus Metro SantoDomingoBávaro Expreso El Canario Tours Caribe to check thatyourbagdidnot get removed. times snack stops,andit’sagoodideaatthose there are usuallyintermediate bathroomand unloadedalongtheway.Thatsaid, accidentally have toworryabout yourbagbeingstolenor Nagua and Sánchez. Plata andSamaná(US$7,3½tofourhours),withstopsin betweenPuerto service vehicles, buttheonlydailydirect Air-con service from Santo Domingo to Port-au-Prince, fromSantoDomingo toPort-au-Prince, Air-con service Haiti. cnr Avs 27deFebrero &WinstonChurchill, SantoDomingo) gua-guas, which are more frequent than1st- Second-class service is on minibuses known isonminibuses service Second-class First-class carriers includethefollowing: Mp pp74-5; (Map (Map (Map pp74-5 ; ( % (Map pp74-5 ; 809-291-5594) Not exactly 1st-class 809-291-5594) Notexactly which typicallyhasair-condi- % caliente there buses isusu- % 809-566-7126; Calle Francisco 809-566-7126; CalleFrancisco % 809-531-0383; PlazaLama, 809-221-4422; cnrAvs 27

(Map (Map p77 ; lonelyplanet.com % 809- DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION

259 goma Play it safe and always keep your gas tank your gas and always keep Play it safe The most common car trouble is to end up is to end up The most common car trouble ter quality and they provide reliable and and reliable quality and they provide ter servicecomprehensive If you and insurance. cities, plan to do any driving outside major if not necessary, it’s highly recommended, The multinational car-rental agencies typically agencies The multinational car-rental nondeductible collision comprehensive, offer insurance for fairly small daily and liability cov- partial usually offer Smaller agencies fees. with a deductible ranging from US$100 erage, to US$2000. Several companies, credit-card cover- comprehensive including Amex, offer your check but you should for rentals, age declining the own insurance policy before rental company’s. Rental Hertz, like multinational agencies Familiar Europcar, Alamo and Dollar all have Avis, Las Internacional offices at Aeropuerto Américas (and pickup service at airports like Punta Cana), as well as in Santo Domingo usu- their rates and other cities. Not only are local or national less than thoseally much of bet- much of are but their vehicles agencies, for the large pink jugs sitting on tables pink jugs on the for the large road. the side of caused by tire or damaged with a punctured pot holes, speed bumps and rocks or other is word for tire debris in the road. The shop is called a ‘rubber’) and a tire (literally common than even more are gomero, which it to one on gas stations. If you can make can patch the guys there tire, your busted a damaged a flat (US$5 to US$8), replace (US$10 to US$50 depending on type tire and whether you want a new or used tire of on for you or just put the spare replacement), to US$2). (US$1 Insurance of town. There are a couple of different com- different of a couple are There town. of essentiallythe same for are but prices panies, by is regulated gasoline all. The base price of but has fluctuated government, the federal research, At the time of years. wildly in recent to US$4.50 to just beengas prices had hiked the rise. still on US$5 and were (gas stations) bombas full. Many at least half in the DR close by 7pm, and even when they gas. If you’re have open they don’t always are part of or in a remote on back roads traveling is to buy gas from the country, your best bet people selling Look it from their front porch. may cobradors or ‘charger’ or ‘charger’ cobrador, are typically are Gua-guas pass every 15 to gua-guas GETTING •• Car & Motorcycle AROUND

does. gua-gua

cally right along the highway on the outskirts Fuel & Spare Parts Fuel & Spare Parts at least one gas station, typi- Most towns have the DR. Be sure it’s valid. the DR. Be sure For travelers from most countries, your home For travelers in license allows you to drive country driver’s consider renting one for a select couple of one for a select couple of consider renting or not isolated sights that are days, to reach public transportation. well served by Driver’s License

system is system Though the DR’s bus and gua-gua your own car is invariably excellent, having if renting Even convenient. and more faster trip, for the entire a car isn’t in your budget CAR & MOTORCYCLE CAR & MOTORCYCLE there are a few routes where you should arrive you should arrive where routes a few are there because a spot, either early to secure the bus early. Those fills up or because leave it may chapters. appropriate in the noted cases are two in advance, which assures you a spot and assures two in advance, which waiting in line you the time and hassle of saves your bags. Finally, with all at a busy terminal and Terra Bus. During Dominican holidays Bus. During Dominican holidays and Terra a day or you can sometimes buy your ticket exceptions are the international buses the international to Port- exceptions are by Caribe operated Tours au-Prince, Haiti, Reservations necessary usually and aren’t buses. even on 1st-class even The taken, rarely Reservations Reservations pocket the change of unwary foreigners. It’s a unwary foreigners. of the change pocket or small bills and to good idea to carry change advance by asking afind out the exact cost in the stop. local waiting with you at you have the exact amount some the exact amount you have gesture is to point at the curb in front of you is to point at the curb in front of gesture any but just about (as if to say ‘stop right here’) Most will do. gesture sengers anywhere along the route – to flag one along the route anywhere sengers hand – the commondown simply hold out your pick up and drop off pas- Gua-guas one to take. and cost US$1 to US$2, but unless30 minutes sengers) will yell out the destination of the bus of yell out the destination will sengers) the road. Don’t on the side of fares to potential which unsure a local if you’re hesitate to ask assistant(known as the from pas- fares is to collect his jobs since one of be sure a a be sure midsize buses 30 pas- holding around 25 to the driver’s signs, but have rarely They sengers. GUA-GUAS GUA-GUAS long-distance busesWherever go, you can don’t lonelyplanet.com DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION will, a continuous series ofwill, acontinuous series gamesof chicken much afree-for-all, atest and of ones’nerves drivingintheDRisprettytimes. Thatsaid, are required Seatbelts US orCanada. at all are shape thesame andcoloryoufindin the andsigns tries intheAmericas,andlights rules intheDRare formost coun- thesame First ruleisthere are none. Intheory,road Road Rules tors whocan give change. move on.Ifnot, there are booths andcollec- can simplytossintothebasket andquickly US$1). It’sbesttohave exactchange that you toll fees of fairlynominalamounts(around and Hwy2leaving thecitytowest,have heading outof SantoDomingototheeast the airportand resort areas. andthelongcommuteheavy between traffic area Cana the toalleviate built inthePunta nearly inhalf.There’s amajor newroadbeing SantoDomingoandSamaná time between of istheonethatwillcutdriving tant these be completed inthenearfuture. Mostimpor- tion atthetimeof research andscheduled to by thesideof the road. of asuperhero willprobably endupinaditch Even the mostskilledperson withthereflexes or reflectors. yet, Better motorcycles andpedestriansdon’thave lights bumpsarespeed hardertospotandmany careful aspotholesand whendrivingatnight, particularly and especiallymotorcycles.Be large orsmall,watch forslow-moving cars especially nearpopulated areas. Onallroads, bumps andpeoplewalkingalongtheroadside, of bealertforpotholes,speed thehighways, ontherestin excellentcondition.However, lanesandisfastmovingmany aseight and SantoDomingoandSantiagohasas between very short distance.The over highway sometimes alongthesame a Roads intheDRrange fromexcellenttoawful, Road Conditions locations foran additional fee. to pickupanddropoffthecaratdifferent of poorroadconditions.It’susuallypossible only experiencedriders shoulddosobecause Motorcyclescanalsoberented,stantial. but in advanceviatheinternet discountsare sub- US$100 perday,butifyoumake areservation to rent typicallycostUS$40to a4WD.Rates 260 Some of includingHwy3 thehighways, were newhighways underconstruc- Several GETTING AROUND •• Hitchhiking AROUND••Hitchhiking GETTING never drive atnever drive night . autopista (freeway) have publicbussystems thatoperate astheydo Large citieslike SantoDomingoandSantiago Bus LOCAL TRANSPORTATION a greater riskthan for locals. doing so(especiallyifyouhave bags)carries it israreforeigners tosee hitchhiking, and there islittleformalregulation. Thatsaid, are hitchhiking, themselvessince essentially andpúblicosystemstaxi) incitiesof allsizes And themotoconchoevening. (motorcycle morningandor othertownsnearbyevery large numberof workers commute toHigüey common inresort areas like Bávaro,where a and in ruralareas where fewer peoplehave cars the time,bothmenandwomen,especially anywhere intheworld,Dominicanshitch all hitchhiking entirelyThough isnever safe HITCHHIKING cars behindyouaren’t expecting it. moreit canbeeven dangerous tostopifthe youprobablyshould,too,as going through, what otherdrivers are is doing–ifeveryone should alwaysplantostopatthem.Watch arelights frequently ignored, you though way justbefore themoment of impact. where istheonewhodecidestogive theloser the extra weight makesthe extra weight mostscooters harder bikes separate astaking but price thesame passengers ona bike sincenotonlyisthe think he’sdriving dangerously. Avoid two slow down(¡Másdespacio porfavor! in number of riders have injured been orkilled no more ahigh thanUS$1.50.However, towns. Anaverage youback ride should set sometimes onlyway,toget around inmany conchos are (motorcycletaxis) thebestand Cheaper andeasiertofindthantaxis, Motoconcho routes and pass more frequently. because probably take relatively few simply citybuses, when hecomesaround.Ingeneral, youwill where youboardquicklyandpaythe areOther citybuses more orlesslike and paytheperson sittingbesidetheturnstile. are thekindinwhich youboardintheback larger are citybuses imported fromBrazil,and in mostplacesaroundtheworld.Many of the In small towns, nay in all towns, traffic In smalltowns,nayinalltraffic motoconcho accidents;askthedriver to gua-gua issparse. It’salsovery service públicos followpretty much thesame

lonelyplanet.com gua-guas, cobrador ) ifyou moto- DOMINICAN REPUBLIC TRANSPORTATION 261 (stops), one down simply hold out your hand – the hand – hold out your simply one down one else is no If there US$0.30. is around fare want you the driver to tell sure in the car, be servicio público (public service) pay- to avoid taxi rates. ing private Taxi – cruise for passengers taxis rarely Dominican sitios at designated they wait instead bus terminals, at hotels, located are which parks. You also and main public tourist areas can phone a taxi service (or ask your hotel do not have Taxis to call for you). receptionist beforehand. price on a – agree meters

Públicos

are usu- are motoconchos GETTING •• Local Transportation AROUND

window to solicit potential fares. They are They are fares. window to solicit potential people inside by the crush of also identifiable them – up to seven in a midsize car! To flag ) don’t have ) don’t have or carros (also called conchos hold their hands out the signs but the drivers Públicos Públicos small minivans or cars, banged-up These are along that pick up passengers pickup trucks set main boulevards. usually routes, ally impractical and certainlyally impractical comfortable less the alternatives. than to control. For longer trips, or if you have any if you have trips, or For longer to control. bag or luggage, sort of www.lonelyplanet.com 262

THE 2010 EARTHQUAKE On 12 January, 2010, an earthquake measuring 7.0 on the Richter scale hit Haiti, with its epicenter near the town of Leógâne, 25km west of Port-au-Prince. The earthquake devastated swathes of the capital, Leógâne and Petit-Goâve, and badly damaged Jacmel. The final death toll may never be exactly known, but it’s estimated that around 200,000 people lost their lives. The earthquake caused over US$7 billion damage to Haiti’s infrastructure. The Inter-American Development Bank reported the earthquake to be the most devastating natural disaster of modern times. The international community responded with a massive relief effort, but the speed of the response was initially hampered by the fact that the earthquake had not only put Port-au- Prince’s airport and port out of action, but also leveled the centers of government, from the Palais National and Parliament down. Similarly, the UN headquarters was destroyed and its chief of mission killed. The transport hubs were soon reopened by the US military, who sent thou- sands of personnel, but a lack of agency coordination (later criticized by senior UN staff) further contributed to delays, and even a month after the earthquake there were areas that had yet to receive any relief or assistance The immediate needs were immense. A million people were rendered homeless and up to 250,000 buildings in the capital alone were estimated to be damaged or destroyed. Those who had swelled Port-au-Prince’s shanties in recent decades were particularly affected, with whole neighborhoods of cheaply built shacks flattened in an instant. In the aftermath, tented camps sprang up across the city wherever there was space. Shelter was a huge priority, with the need for adequate tents essential in the face of the rains and hurricane season. At the same time, the destruction saw a large-scale exodus from Port-au-Prince, with people leaving to stay with relatives in the provinces. One of the lasting legacies of the earthquake is the high number of amputees among survivors. Rebuilding will take a matter of years, not months. With the emergency medical emergency phase of the relief operation over, the new priorities are longer-term primary care and public health, particularly for those living in crowded temporary shelters. Rubble clearance for rebuild- ing is also a high priority.

Travel to Haiti? While as of March 2010 non-essential travel to the affected areas was not advised, tourism income can undoubtedly play a part in Haiti’s economic recovery. Volunteer tourism, of the sort that was seen after the 2004 Asian Tsunami and in post-Katrina New Orleans, will also have its part to play, although at time of publication organized volunteer programs were yet to fully take shape. It should be noted that away from the center, places like Cap-Haïtien, the northern coast and the southwest were largely untouched by the earthquake, although most towns have received influxes of those displaced by the quake. The following sights in Port-au-Prince are known to have been destroyed: Palais National, Marché de Fer, Centre d’Art, Sainte Trinité Episcopalian Cathedral and Notre Dame Catholic Cathedral. Grand Rue was leveled, although the artists’ community survives, as do the majority of the historic gingerbread houses. In Fermathe, Fort Jacques was damaged. Jacmel’s historic core was also badly damaged. In Port-au-Prince, St Joseph’s Home for Boys Guest House and the Hotel Montana were flattened, while the El Rancho and Villa Creole hotels were damaged and closed after the quake. In Jacmel, the Hôtel Florita was severely damaged. In Petit-Goâve, Le Relais de l’Empereur was completely destroyed. In the short term, hotel space is likely to remain at a premium, and advance booking essential. For updated information on the earthquake, a good place to start is ReliefWeb (www.reliefweb. int/haiti). Many major international relief and development NGOs such asOxfam (www.oxfam.org) and Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors Without Borders; www.msf.org) have had a long-term presence in Haiti, but there are also plenty of local NGOs doing valuable work within their own communities, such as Partners in Health (www.pih.org), Lambi Fund (www.lambifund.org), Konbit Pou Ayiti/KONPAY (www.konpay.org) and Fonkoze (www.fonkoze.org). Further updates are available from www.lonelyplanet.com/haiti.

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