AUGUST, 1916. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR

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HMLTN CLOSED DU 620 .M5 n Francisco's Fine Arts Palace of 1915 is preserved, should there be a per- went Palace of Peace at the Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu in 1919. IIIIIIIII

VoL. XII. No. 2. HONOLULU, HAWAII. Speedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

The World's Famoiis Railway Bridge Over the Hawkesbury River, N. S. W.

All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From Syd- glorious river scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry, rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip fron- wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places• of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The secretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. L. Spurway. • p,t/P 4 • tklt/P 41,k,Sti IMMIX.) IMATA .11,41441.MA•4381,1 41.),AM1,•141.94 IPAMI,MPAM • 1AVAP MPAt4P4MV.14 IMIAMMIP411 •

.• t. •• 4 •). II-1r filth-Partur Magaztur • CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD • • VOLUMEOLUME XII. No.2. 4

;" CONTENTS FOR AUGUST, 1916.

The Honolulu 1919 Exposition in Picture - - - - 103 i The Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu - - - - 117 ■• . 't We Reach the Solomons (Log of the Snark) - - - 133 . • By Charmian Kittredge London. • Art in Japan . - 139 By Hamilton Bell.

The Pan-American Society 143 • . By Dr. Harry Erwin Bard A Sport of Princes - - - - - - - - 147 By L. W. de Pis-Norton. • The China MonuMents Society - - - - - - 153 4 By Frederick McCormick. . The Trout Streams of Kosciusko - - - - - 159 i By David G. Stead, F.L.S. I Honolulu Beautiful 163 By Her School Children. 1 Thermal Wonders of New Zealand - - - - 167 By Mary Proctor. • Wanderings in Weltevreden 173 • From the Editor's Diary. •

Mark Twain's Hawaiian Home - - - 177 By E. S. Goodhue,M.D. 4. The Visayas and Zamboanga - - - - - - 183 i By P. L. Bryant. t•1 Coasting Along the Island Continent 187 f. By J. H. MacKinnon. i The Pineapple in Hawaii - - - - 191 By J. E. Higgins. i . Tramping in Central California 194 By E. D. Moore. . .f.i. Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific. . > •

01ir illiii-Parifir IR agazine . Published by ALEXANDER HU1VIE FORD, Honolulu, T. H. 4'• Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possesaions, 52.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, 53.00 Single copies, 25c. a Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. 4 Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given i ■ iiilt • trwiltre • a tsktria • • • • • 1- • e • • • =car; int • • eivrisatettirm—oriari risiti This bit of fairyland may be in Japan; it may Jbe in Honolulu. At the 1919 Exposition in Hawaii this and many other corners from Japan will be reproduced and peopled by those resident in Hawaii from the "Land of the Rising Sun." •:*

This is a bit of old Hawaii; it might be a lowland section of the Expo- sition grounds of 1919 in Honolulu, for here, in the midst of the native taro, will once more spring up and be peo- pled, a real Hawaiian grass house village. From West Australia the Million Club of Perth is expected to send to the Honolulu 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition some of the aboriginal sons of Australia, that the village life of the native Aus- tralian may be reproduced for historical study. There is a Siberian colony in Hawaii, and on the grounds of the 1919 Exposition it will reproduce not only the log houses of Asiatic Russia, but a miniature Russian cathedral that will be used for services during and after the Exposition. Old California Mission life is to be a feature of the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. There is a large colony of Californians in Hay aii, among her leading citizens, and they will see to it that the great Pacific State is well represented. Eiji has promised that her native sons will take part in the 1919 Pan- Pacific Exposition at the Cross-roads of the Pacific, and here will be built a native village to house the war- riors from South of the Line. There is direct steamship service between Hawaii, Peru and Chile, and through the Pan-American Union, efforts will be maae to r - produce the native life of the Peruvian Indians at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. The American Indian will be seen at the Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu in 1919. The native cliff-dwellers of the Pacific Coast country will build their dwellings in the precipitous places on the Exposition grounds and live as did their forefathers in Arizona and the Far West. The Mexican has also promised to bring his family to create a Mexican village at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honoluu, and it is pro- posed to reproduce at least one of the ancient Aztec palaces the ruins of which have made old Mexico loved by Antiquarians. There are two streams flowing through the proposed 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition grounds in Honolulu, and about one of them might well be reproduced a bit of "Chinese native life, for there are 20,000 sons of China in Hawaii, who still love their native customs. There are more than ten thousand Filipinos in Hawaii. Many wear the native dress of the tribes to which they belong, and there will be a picturesque village at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu, for native customs will be preserved. The Portuguese of Hawaii number 20,000. Macao, in China, is still a Portuguese colony, and it is hoped that its ancient cathedral will be reproduced by the Hawaiian Portuguese at the 1919 Pan- Pacific Exposition in Honolulu, as their reception hall. Ilhwaii can almost reproduce on its 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition grounds the wonderful botanical gardens of Java, and it is aimed to attempt this on a small scale, and perhaps plant also a native Javan village on the grounds. The Maoris of New Zealand speak a tongue understood by the Hawa- ians. After a thousand years they are, it is hoped, to have their villages side by side, and at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Hawaii may be made some wonderful studies of these two kindred races of the North and South. There are Hawaiians still who inhabit the ancient native grass house, and on the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition grounds in Honolulu, near the very spot where the still living ex-Queen lived as a child in a grass mansion and leaped over the Waikahalulu Falls, ftithlittritir filagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VOLUME XII. AUGUST, 1916 NUMBER 2.

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A Corner of the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition Grounds in Honolulu.

4:* The Pan-Pacific Exposition, Honolulu, 1919

It will take at least taco and a half years to prepare for a modern International Exposition, therefore the Advisory Committee of the Pan-Pacific Exposition and the people of Hawaii gen- erally, urge that this Exposition along new lines be held in Honolulu in 1919, partly com- memorative of the sailing of the first missionaries for Hawaii in 1819, but mostly to urge consideration of Honolulu as a free port at the cross-roads of the greatest of oceans and at the center of the world's greatest theatre of commerce, the Pacific Ocean.

HE campaign for the Pan-Pacific tle & Cooke, Ltd., having placed the ex- Exposition in Honolulu has opened tensive floor space above their offices at the T in earnest. Hereafter the Pan- corner of Fort and Merchant streets at the Pacific Club will have commodious quar- disposal of the Pan-Pacific workers. ters in the heart of the city, Messrs. Cas- Here will be displayed models of the 118 THE MID-PACIFIC

It is planned that the youths of the Kamehameha School, a manual-training institution for Hawaiians only, will construct the old Hawaiian houses for the Pan-Pacific 1919 Exposition in Honolulu. They will follow a three years' course in such construction. dioramas that are to be the features of begins. Practically all exhibits will be the Exposition, and here will be seen the parts of the dioramas. drawings and plans of the proposed build- The great main feature of the Pan-Pa- ings—for the Pan-Pacific Exposition is to cific Exposition will be the conventions be pioneered along new lines. The build- that are to be held. These will be Pan- ings will all be designed to conform with Pacific in their scope, and, as already the diorama idea, and each nationality of planned, will bring together many hun- the Pacific will erect its own permanent dreds of the leaders of thought and com- structure, which it will own for all time, merce from every part of the great ocean. to use as either a club house or a perma- Already plans are under way to send ath- nent industrial commercial museum after letes from Hawaii to compete in the 1917 the close of the Exposition. Far Eastern Olympiad at Tokyo, and to It is planned to have the dioramas sur- invite the athletes of the Far East to join round the different buildings during the in the 1919 Pan-Pacific Olympiad in Exposition, each diorama being perhaps Honolulu. thirty feet wide by as many deep, each a The Pan-Pacific workers have made semi-circular painted canvas, before which their first report to the Advisory-Finance is built an actual foreground, so that the Committee of the big Pan-Pacific Exposi- eye is deceived and cannot tell where the tion. This report states that it seems to real exhibit ends and the painted scenery he the consensus of opinion that the Pan- THE MID-PACIFIC 119

From this picture it will be seen that the old Hawaiian house lends itself easily to the use of the diorama, and many of the scenic views and industries of Hawaii are to be shown by dioramas at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu.

Pacific Exposition should be held in 1919, lows: Walter F. Dillingham, George to commemorate the sailing of the New Rodiek, Frank Atherton, ex-Governor of England missionaries to Hawaii, and that Hawaii Walter F. Frear, E. A. Mott- in the following year the exhibits should Smith, W. R. Castle and J. P. Cooke, be shipped to the great Boston Fair in with Alexander Hume Ford as an ex- 1920, commemorating the landing of the officio member. Pilgrims. This committee is composed of the lead- It was after the several leaders of the ing business men and financiers of Hawaii. different Pacific nationalities in Hawaii Several of them addressed the organiza- had promised cooperation that they gath- tion meeting, and all have assumed their ered at a Pan-Pacific luncheon at the duties. University Club to appoint an Advisory and Finance Committee and to plan the A consensus of the addresses at this first best method of laying before the cham- meeting is contained in the paragraphs that bers of commerce, merchants' associations follow. and boards of trade of all nationalities of "A world opportunity for these Hawa- Hawaii and the Pacific countries the proj- iian islands has arisen; we of Honolulu ect of the Pan-Pacific Exposition to be would grasp it. Urged on by the people held in Honolulu during 1919. of other Pacific lands, Hawaii is about to The committee appointed was as fol- take a step that must make good her boast 120 THE MID-PACIFIC

There is a family resemblance to the Hawaiian ig the Maori or New Zealand native house, each of these at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu' might well house a diorama of a New Zealand port or leading industry. of more than a decade that Hawaii is the vancement, to be held here in Hawaii, we "Hub" of the Pacific. might, as have expositions in the past, "At one time or another in recent years point to the past, and recall that we are every land of the Pacific has turned to approaching the centennial of the landing Hawaii. At the Cross-Roads of the Pa- here of the whalers and the missionaries, cific is the one logical center where should but better far, let us make this effort com- be maintained a permanent Commercial memorative of the birth of a hope born Congress from Pacific lands, and where, of today—a hope the realization of which in time, should be established the great is encouraged by the resumption of traffic Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum of round- through the Panama Canal—that these the-ocean industries. The psychological islands shall be set aside as a free port, moment seems to have arrived when Ha- where the vast commerce of the Pacific waii must maintain in Honolulu a Pan- may be housed and exchanged, and, with Pacific Exposition, fathered and main- our Pan-Pacific Exposition as a beginning, tained by the races of the Pacific resident go on with the building of that vast store- here, they to act as hosts to guests and house and exchange station at the Cross- exhibitors fro mevery land and nationality Roads of the Ocean, so earnestly to be de- about the great circle of the world's vast- sired by ourselves, as it is by every land est theatre of commerce — the Pacific that lies in or on the borders of this ocean, Ocean. that is already the great theatre of the "If there is needed further excuse for world's commerce. this cooperative exposition of Pacific ad- "In the building of the Exposition City, THE MID-PACIFIC 121

It is to be hoped that the New Zealanders will surround their Maori dwellings at the Pan- Pacific Exposition with one of the native pa's or forts. Nothing would prove more inviting, to New Zealand than this bit bit of reproduction of real Maori life that the Island Dominion can so easily provide. in Honolulu the aim will be permanency. site in the city. This, and a right of way Already five acres have been secured as a to Nuuanu avenue, should also be secured Japanese park, Queen Liliuokalani and as public land, with a view of making others donating the land about Waikaha- the amphitheatre at the close of the Ex- lulu Falls and on either side of Nuuanu position the open athletic grounds for the Stream between School and Kuakini streets use of all nations in Hawaii. Let every —one of the most delightful park sites in move we make for the Pan-Pacific Expo- the world—and this park, in the center of sition be for permanency and permanent the city, the Japanese have already begun benefit to Hawaii ; and so will our money to beautify. It should be the nucleus of be twice expended, and in the finals on the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition grounds, ourselves. for Ewa of it, extending to Liliha street, "Some of the Japanese have suggested are about twenty acres of unimproved that their people should erect an exposi- property, ideal for park purposes, that may tion building to house exhibits sent from be secured for Exposition uses. The city Japan, and that the building remain their might well, as a site for a future Pan- property after the close of the Exposition. Pacific Park, condemn this area and aid Some of the Chinese and Koreans have in securing it as an Exposition site and made similar advances, as have also the future park. Waikiki of Liliuokalani Filipinos, and even the Siberian Russians. Gardens, extending almost to Nuuanu The Pan-Pacific Exposition may also be avenue, is the one ideal perfect stadium made the means of carrying to completion 122 THE MID-PACIFIC

More than 100,000 Japanese reside in Hawaii, and already plans are being laid for a per- manent Japanese club house at the Pan-Pacific Exposition, as well as Buddhist and Shinto temples that will house Japan's art exhibits in Honolulu during 1919. It is hoped that a veritable city of Japan will arise to delight all visitors

the long-mooted plan of erecting in this seum, both of which projects several of city a real Hawaiian village, peopled by the Pacific countries have more than once native Hawaiians, who will be encouraged urged us to undertake, offering their lib- to revive the decorative and industrial arts eral financial support and hearty coopera- of their race. From Washington, D. C., tion. Even the work of preparing the Ex- comes the promise of personal cooperation position grounds should and can be made or the part of John Barrett, Director- to tend toward permanent results as well General of the Pan-American Union and as the useful expenditure of each dollar one of our Vice-Presidents. twice. The Trail and Mountain Club is "With each nationality purchasing its arranging to have its trails cut and re- portion of ground and erecting its own paired by the Boy Scouts, assigning one building, the cost of the Pan-Pacific Ex- hundred dollars' worth of work to each position to its promoters and supporters troop, and this earned is to be spent on comes within the easy range of possibility. tents and equipment for the troops doing The money apportioned for publicity work the work. Public school officials state that can be made to advertise Hawaii as it has their advanced pupils build school houses, never been advertised before. The fund and can be secured on Saturdays for plant- set aside for administration should be used ing and caring for the park shrubbery. with the view of organizing a permanent They are also to be used by the artists in staff of publicity workers as well as a charge of the construction of the diora- permanent Pan-Pacific Commercial Mu- mas, for it was the Normal School pupils THE MID-PACIFIC 123

There is nothing more graceful than the Torii, the emblem of the Shinto faith, that should mark the entrance to "Japan" at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu, and beyond should be seen the ornate gate tower of the Buddhist enclosure, for these are the faiths of Japan. who built far better relief maps of Ha- cific Exposition in Honolulu, as well as waii than those that have been prepared proper transportation facilities to and from by the government. Furthermore, there is every part of the Pacific. Already the a National Guard. It needs equipment, Union Steamship Company of New Zea- and its members can have no better drill land, owners of the Canadian-Australian in preparedness than they would enjoy in Line, has notified the Pan-Pacific workers the manual practice work on the Pan- that it will acquiesce in their request for a Pacific grounds. In every way we must low excursion rate from Australian ports, help ourselves and each other. New Zealand and Vancouver to Hawaii, "Once actual work is begun on the Ex- and furthermore, this company will ad- position, the building of new roads and vertise Hawaii in the press of Australasia the repairing of old ones must also begin as the ideal summer and winter holiday and be kept up. The Federal Govern- land. So much for a starter. ment might be induced to at once begin "At the request of this body the local work on its military road around Oahu. Y. M. C. A. is preparing to issue a call and would doubtless erect its buildnigs on for a Pan-Pacific Y. M. C. A. Secretarial the Exposition grounds and fill them with convention to be held in Honolulu during exhibits. Perhaps the Government might the period of the Exposition ; the Asiatic also aid Alaska and the Filipinos to ex- Society and similar bodies are pledged to hibit, and even appropriate for Hawaii. a great Pan-Pacific conference here during There is no harm in asking and urging. 1919-20. Moreover, it is comtemplated "New and splendid modern hotel- must be calling, at a date prior to that of the Ex- another collateral adjunct of a Pan-Pa- position, a Pan-Pacific Convention of the 124 THE MID-PACIFIC

The 20,000 Chinese of Hawaii have offered to erect their building at the Pan-Pacific Expo- sition in 1919, and it will remain to them as a club house for the' use of the Chinese who reside in Hawaii. The Chinese public buildings splendidly lend themselves to the plan of surrounding dioramas. heads of all Government Tourist Bureaus, nate tongue. It is time that we here have as well as the transportation men from all an historical art gallery of paintings of countries that border on the 'Big Ocean. our Hawaiian people and their customs, and this project is being received most fa- and the Pan-Pacific 'Exposition may well vorably on all sides. afford an excuse for such a beginning. "In Honolulu and Hawaii we have al- "The striking feature that subjugated all most every nationality of the Pacific, but others at the recent exposition was the it would well repay us to bring for the diorama. Canada made the world wonder period of the Pan-Pacific Exposition the 2t the San Francisco Exposition, showing aboriginal boomerang-throwers of Austra- only dioramas, depicting Canada's wonder- lia, the Maori war-dancers of New Zea- ful progress in every direction. The paint- land, the Samoan spear-throwers, the Fi- ings and the real exhibits were so deftly jiian fire-walkers, and even the Solomon joined that no one could tell where the Island savages, holding here a Polynesian real wheatfield in the foreground ended Olympiad of aboriginal sports, and, in an- and the painted canvas began, and so it ticipation of this, reviving the forgotten was with her orchards, industries, and sports and games of our own Hawaiians, even cities, before which floated working the most advanced of all Polynesians. steamship models in real water. "In Auckland is an art gallery in which "Already Lionel Walden and Howard is hung paintings of the Maori men of Hitchcock are at work on the models for mark, as well as canvas depicting the an- the Hawaiian dioramas, and around the dent history and customs of these people, Pacific, cities, states and commercial organ- cousins to Hawaiians and speaking a cog- izations are discussing, as we are here, the THE MID-PACIFIC 125

3 Chinese bazaar and compound should and will be a feature of the Pan-Pacific 1919 Expo- sition. Here the real life of Canton will be reproduced in Honolulu for the term of the Exposition, and this too may be built along the lines of permanency. dioramas and exhibits they are to send to The Chinese here will build their street Honolulu during 1919. These dioramas in Canton on the banks of the Nuuanu will be built so that they can be packed Stream, with their Chinese bazaar and and sent from exposition to exposition. theatre; the Japanese will provide their In Hawaii, to show off the diorama, only dainty tea houses and Japanese wrestlers ; a central thatched shed is needed, for the Koreans their village; the Filipinos around the sides of such an open build- will build theirs and give exhibitions of ing would be the dioramas — the fore- walking up the straight stem of the coco- grounds built up from the earth's surface nut tree, besides illustrating native cere- and the roof a canvas through which the monies—and all of this can be done here soft light may percoate. In the center without importing aid. The Spaniards floor space of such buildings might be near Ewa have offered to reproduce a placed the old line of exhibits in exposi- Spanish-American village, with the sports, tion buildings. The Pan-Pacific Exposi- games and dances of the Spanish-Ameri- tion in Honolulu is to inaugurate an en- cans. The Portuguese will surely have tirely new departure in international ex- their games and village, and the Russian position work, for co-operation throughout Siberians ask space for a small but per- will be the keynote, rather than competi- manent cathedral and Siberian village. tion. Space has been asked for an Eskimaux "Hawaii is rich in the possibilities for village and real Eskimaux, and it does amusement of visitors to an exposition. now seem up to us to secure villagers of 126 THE MID-PACIFIC

The fifteen thousand Filipinos in Hawaii will construct their own buildings at the Pan-Pacific 1919 Exposition, and urge their compatriots at, home to provide the dioramas of Filipino scenes and industries that are to be the main feature of the Honolulu Exposition. native Australians, New Zealand Maoris Pacific Club, together with leading citi- and South Sea Islanders. No greater, zens interested, have been looking over the surer attractions than these people would grounds Ewa of the Liliuokalani Gardens, afford, with their tribal games, ceremonies for in this block, bounded by Nuuanu, and customs, could possibly be secured for Liliha, School and Kuakini streets, there any exposition in any land, and they are are several acres of available land on here at our hands for the grasping. which there are no buildings, and as much In announcing the proposal of a Pan- of this is covered with a growth of Hawa- Pacific Exposition in Hawaii, the Hono- iian trees, the whole would form a tropical lulu Star-Bulletin said : park that would add greatly to the attract- "Honolulu, the Cross-Roads of the Pa- iveness of the Exposition, and on these cific, is to celebrate the conclusion of grounds could at once be begun the plant- peace in Europe by holding a great Pan- ing of the shrubs and flowers that would Pacific Exposition. be necessary. "The Pan-Pacific Club of Honolulu has "Already several of the leading Chinese sent a call around the great ocean and a have assured the Pan-Pacific workers that start has been made on a collection of they would be willing to erect a great exhibits that will be seen here during Chinese club house that could be used as 1919 and 1920. The site at present under consideration is truly Pan-Pacific in its an Exposition building to house the ex- surroundings and in many other ways. hibits sent from China, if only they could The several committees from the Pan- purchase the land on which the building THE MID-PACIFIC 127

The ten thousand Koreans in Hawaii plan to reproduce at the Pan-Pacific 1919 Exposition in Honolulu one of the famous gate towers of Seoul. Through the main arches will be viewed the dioramas of Korean cities, and the building itself will be turned into a school or college at the termination of the Exposition. stood and own the building after the Ex- sition projectors more than half the usual position is over. amount of money expended for buildings "Japanese interviewed are of the opinion to house the exhibits. The diorama is to that their people would erect a monu- be the great feature of the 1919 Pan-Pa- mental Shinto or Buddhist temple, to be cific Exposition in Honolulu. It was the used for the reception of Japanese ex- series of dioramas in the Canadian Build- hibits, to become later on the property of ing that became the talk of the Exposi- the Japanese congregation. In fact, in tion at San Francisco and again at San every direction the work is being planned Diego, and it was the Alaskan diorama in to be cooperative. The citizens of each the Pan-Pacific Building in San Diego Pacific country are to take the lead in that attracted more attention than all other securing the erection of the building that exhibits combined. Canada has learned, is to house the exhibits from their native after eighteen years of experience, that her land. These buildings, it is believed, can dioramas draw more people to Canada be built here at a very much less cost than all other advertising and promotion than on the mainland, for here there is work combined. It is the future method no frost, and stucco-built buildings will of assembling and grouping and showing last for several lifetimes. Moreover, with exhibits. the new cooperative instead of competitive "To illustrate: Take, for instance, the idea in Exposition work, conflicting ex- proposed dioramas of the Hawaiian Isl- hibits will be eliminated. ands. A central building might be erected, "The Pan-Pacific Club proposes to in- such as the big grass-thatched lanai that augurate an entirely new idea in inter- was the nucleus and beginning of the Out- national expositions, and an idea the car- rigger Canoe Club. This building, 50x rying out of which will save to the Expo- 100 feet, cost about $1,000 to build. 128 THE MID-PACIFIC

The dioramas of Java tourist resorts at the San Francisco Exposition, although smaller, were scarcely second in interest to the wonders of the Canadian Building. Scenically Java is Hawaii's one rival, and it is proposed to bring a bit of real Java to Hawaii for the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition.

Around such an open structure could be tual beaver dam. Behind this is a few grouped the dioramas. These need no feet of water, and then comes the pano- roofing in this climate other than the can- rama background, but it is impossible for vas, through which the soft light needed the eye to tell where the real water ends percolates. They would need no flooring, and the painted water begins, or which for the reason that the foreground of the trees are natural and which on painted diorama is built up, and no walls would canvas. The next diorama is that of a be needed. In other words, .two-thirds of heatfield, but your eye will not tell you the building would be eliminated, the dio- where the growing wheat ends and the ramas taking this space to the great saving painted landscape begins. In another dio- of expense in building erection. rama you may almost touch the big buf- "What is a diorama? A diorama is a falo that are stationed in the foreground, semi-circular background of canvas, on yet you cannot tell, further on, which are which is painted the scene that is needed. the stuffed animals or which the painted. In the space, say thirty or forty feet wide "The ports and cities of Canada are by the same depth before the panorama, treated in the same manner. Actual mod- is built up the foreground. In the Canada els of steamers ply the real water of the Building at San Diego, for instance, one foreground and behind this is a partly foreground is real water, in which beavers painted, partly built city. The various swim. Twenty feet back is the real, ac- industries of Canada are treated in the THE MID-PACIFIC 124

The Solomon Island "boys" have been recruited as plantation •laborers in every part of the tropical Pacific, and will build their own village at the 1919 Pan-Pacific Expo- sition in Honolulu, and the land on which it stands will be given them if they care to remain. same manner, so that everything that is ments to the grounds. At San Diego the usually seen many times over in a confus- exposition has been the excuse for creating ing mass at the ordinary exposition is seen magnificent park. here once, but presented in such a man- "Tile bougainvillea has been used with ner that the picture and impression are great effect in the ornamentation of the never forgotten. In other words, the Pan- great white buildings. Those planted in Pacific workers hope to make the Exposi- tubs three years ago and placed out on the tion in Honolulu the first real scientific terraces have spread, so that they cover the grouping of the attractions and industries whole sides of the bnildings, Two streams of Pacific lands • to be presented to the meander through the proposed grounds of world. the Pan-Pacific Exposition, and between "The center space of the main buildings these streams is high, pirturesque, wooded may, of course, be used for the old line ground. Along the smaller of the two cf exhibits and those that cannot be used streams there are taro patches, and here in the dioramas. The dioramas will be could be located model plots of ricefields, so constructed that they can easily be canefields, pineapple fields and banana taken apart and shipped to other exposi- patches, each instructive to the visitor. tions, the idea being that everything at Along the other stretch of water, the the Pan-Pacific Exposition must be perma- Nuuanu Stream, on each side is located nent — buildings, exhibits and improve- Liliuokalani Gardens, one of the most beau- 130 THE MID-PACIFIC

The greatest attraction at the San Diego Exposition is the real Indian village of the tlrizona cliff dwellers, and these Indians have been invited to make their home at) the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition, where, at the cross-roads of the Great Ocean, they may come in contract with every civilization that exists.

tiful natural parks to be found anywhere Pacific work have been seeking a location on the Pacific. There are two beautiful for a natural stadium, and that which waterfalls in this park, besides swimming they sought afar off they found close pools, and here is the ideal location for the at hand; for there, nestled up to and different Pacific villages. All that will be adjoining the Liliuokalani Gardsn, was an needed at present would be to begin the ideal, natural, tropical stadium. Around a planting of the bamboo boundary lines, basin that had once been the royal taro and in two years each village would have patch, is rising ground, forming a bank on a plot to itself, and any one passing down which thousands might be seated, and in of Pan-Pacific life that could never be this stadium it would be possible to have duplicated anywhere in the world. a quarter-mile track around the area, on which might be held the Polynesian Olym- "In connection with this it is proposed piad of Pan-Pacific games. Here could be to hold a Polynesian Olympiad of all the staged the Japanese wrestling matches, the sports of primitive Pacific peoples. A site Fijian spear-throwing, the old Hawaiian has been selected for this and an option games and the sports of the North Ameri- taken, and negotiations are now pending can Indians. A natural spring bubbles up with supporters of the A. A. U., the Y. in the center of the grounds, and here M. C. A. and the school clubs to take could be placed a practice swimming pool, this over and prepare it for the needs to twenty by ninety feet, in which might be which it will be put. The find of this held the aquatic events of the A. A. U. location at this time has been a most op- and the different schools. After the Ex- portune one. position is over the stadium should become "For years those interested in the Pan- the property of the organizations that un- THE MID-PACIFIC 131

The Samoan house is open on every side, planned, as it was, to surround with dioramas de- picting tropical island life. From American Samoa will doubtless be brought the South Sea village that will grace the grounds of the 1919 Pan- Pacific Exposition in Honolulu.

dertake its purchase and improvement, for sailed from Boston for Hawaii. everything in this Exposition is to be of "The real reason of the Pan-Pacific permanent nature and of benefit to Ho- Exposition, however, is to get the races nolulu. of the Pacific together to do real team "The greatest single attraction at the an work for the Pacific. The Exposition Diego Exposition is the daily military drill might be made to begin a great rallying of the United States marines. Think of cry of all Pacific lands to have the city the world-advertisable feature Honolulu of Honolulu made a free port and store- could put forth in the announcement that house of the products of the Pacific, where we had the cooperation of 10,000 troops ships of every nation may come and go at for exhibition maneuvers at the Pan-Pa- will, without duty, let, or hindrance, bring- cific Exposition. Does this begin to sink ing the wares of the world for storage and into your mind ? Think of the 5,000 taking other wares away to distant points. members of the National Guard, composed At the Cross-Roads of the Great Ocean of men of every nationality of the Pacific. should be the one great commercial store- The exhibitions that they could give seem house of the Pacific, and Congress, if it almost incredible. Their power for peace, will, can make Honolulu one of the great their example of cooperation and brother- commercial cities of the Pacific Ocean, hood of Pacific races, might well be made and an Exposition that would impress to make America or all nations take notice upon the people of America the glorious and ponder. possibilities to Hawaii should she become "If an excuse were needed for holding a free port of entrance for the whole Pa- a Pan-Pacific Exposition at this time, it cific might not fall far short of accim- might be heralded to the world that a plishing the miraculous for Honolulu and hundred years ago the first missionaries these islands. 132 THE MID-PACIFIC The Skipper of the Snark and the Logkeeper.

(THE LOG OF THE SNARK) We Reach the Solomons Mrs. London continues her delightfully interesting account of the Cruise of the "Snark"

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON

Tuesday, June 16, 1908. ing, flaring, fading, burning again, then changing into an unendurable splendor of T six I was on deck, and our pat- blue and gold, in lateral bands, the massy ent log told of thirty-six miles to clouds above shimmering gold and palest A the good since we stopped the en- green, with palpitating purple shadows. gine yesterday. We lay west of Erro- Then followed broad fanrays of the sun, manga, called Martyr Isle, from the many of intolerable gold. To the southeast, missionaries horribly butchered by the can- Tana was shrouded in a blue opal mist, nibals, and were drifting on a flat, gray shot through with liquid rainbow. The sea, with no wind. Behind the long, black whole universe throbbed in excess of pas- island, grimly mysteriobs in the half-light, sionate color. the fires of the sun were kindling — lift- A little wind came abaft, and we rippled

• Copyright by the author. 133 134 THE MID-PACIFIC ahead over a beautiful sea while the world there were a trader and a missionary there. resumed a normal appearance. Jack and We do not know what may have happened I, boxed in our bathing suits, treated each since, but we're going to take our chances. other to a salt pailing, feasted on hot cakes Nakata is cleaning our "arsenal," just to and Papeete honey, and put in a good day's have it in efficient order. Mate is ill, and work. About four the sea began to make, I can see he is anxious to prove his naviga- and we had Wada's wild duck and plum- tion correct, for this is not a reassuring duff dinner on a rolling boat. place to go wrong in. He had little rest last night, for thunder squalls were almost AT SEA, incessant, from 10 o'clock on. The thunder New Hebrides to Solomon Islands, was sometimes like a steady drumming, or June 26, 1908. Friday, the thrumming of gongs, and the lightning This is the day we should have sighted burst the bonds of the dark with brazen San Christoval Island in the Solomons, but contempt for everything human or made by the weather has been so beastly, with so human hands. The forked and streaked much cloud and mist where land ought to thunder-bolts rove high heaven and shot be, that we have had to be very cautious crashing into the sea. Oh — one presses lest we run into some unseen peril of rock close to the nakedness and smallness of life or reef. We have lain off and on all night, at such times. Hour after hour the noise and heaved-to at daylight to watch •for a and lightning continued, and I caught my- rift in the tiresome smoky cloud to show self in forbidden self-pity of nerve-weari- as the land. It must be near, for today a ness and eye-weariness. I had tried the butterfly tangled in our rigging, and we cockpit floor, along with Jack, in our oil- have seen a number of white land birds. skins; then I fled to the dry, white privacy Remembering the Snark's refusal to of my stateroom, and pitied him wet and heave-to on that memorable night out from sick outside. I tried to sleep, but the light- San Francisco, and in spite of better luck ning had got inside my head, behind my on a later occasion, we were rather appre- eyes, into my very soul. hensive. This morning when I awoke and . . . . I was too occupied trotting about realized that the men were inducing this at Vila to write, and have been working maneuver, I called up to Jack: hard these seven days at sea since leaving "Won't she?" Vila. We arrived there on Wednesday, Came his puzzling response: June 17, in a fine rain so dense that Jack "Isn't she?" made port by judgment rather than sight. I repeated: It was squall, with a rushing, foaming, fol- "Mate — won't she heave to?" lowing sea. The engine chugged along "Isn't she hove to, Mate?" he returned, sturdily, for a change; I steered, and Jack and I scrambled on deck to find the little peered ahead for breakers. The mists part- old tub safely and successfully hove to in ed and dispersed only as we slipped into the a misty-moisty world of wet, and Jack grin- green, land-locked harbor, and we found ning with achievement. good anchorage in thirteen fathoms, to dis- While we are straining our eyes for the cover ourselves with plenty of company - four-thousand-foot heights of San Christo- nine or ten small vessels, five of them val for a landmark, the course we want ketches, the others sloops and schooners, to make is between two small islands near scattered the mile and a half breadth, of the the southwestern end of San Christoval- bay. And Jack's friend, Captain Lewes, Santa Catalina and Santa Anna, four miles and the Cambrian had just steamed out. apart. Jack has decided to run in to Port I noticed that the French Residence and Mary on Santa Anna, the westernmost of a schooner had their flags at half-mast, and the two, as the old sailing directions say I pulled ours part way down. The grew- THE MID-PACIFIC 135

Home Life in the New Hebrides some result was that the French captain of full dress, with noiseless Chinese servants, police, Paul Mattei, put immediately out, and a white silk punkah waving overhead. expecting to find some one dead aboard! M. Nouifiard had us to lunch — all It turned out that the captain of the French charming apology because he had just ar- schooner had lately died. rived and his household was not yet run- Natives flocked aboard, a less scrubby ning smoothly. However, he had enough lot than the Tanese, but not much to boast of his Parisian treasures unpacked to set a of. These Efate_ islanders are among the beautiful table, which was served by a shy better sort, having a slight strain of Poly- native house-boy trained by Nouffiard's nesian. We traded tobacco sticks and bead predecessor. At both of these meals ashore necklaces and things for rather fine-woven we were honored with coconut-palm salad basket-bags, and a fluffy dancing skirt of — made from the very tip-top of the tree, shredded fiber dyed a plummy wine-color. which loses its life thereby. "Funeral We called upon the Acting English Resi- salad," Martin cheerily dubs it. dent, Mr. Jacomb, an Oxford man, and The English cruiser Prometheus arrived upon the French Resident, Charles Nouf- on the 18th, and by her courtesy we had her flard. They 'returned our calls next day, blacksmiths aboard to do some repairing - also Captain Harrowell, English chief of a broken spinnaker boom and other items. the native constabulary, and we were en- And Jack and I went over with our chro- tertained by them ashore. Captain Har- nometer to rate it. rowell seized Jack's hand in both his and The British colonial officials are strict, cried : "And this is Jack London! Why, and our yacht license availed us nothing; he's a household word in England !" We we had to clear, like any merchant vessel. dined with him and Mr. Jacomb, all in We did so and got away on June 20, 136 THE MID-PACIFIC

One of the Volcanoes of the New Hebrides—Marela a, Banks Group.

sliding out under full canvas, dipping our nursing bad ulcers — Nakata, especially, flag to the cruiser, which dipped and has our sympathy, for a large space on his cheered in return. calf, which he inadvertently burned with That night there was a red glow in a hot iron, has become infected. Jack has the eastern sky; probably Ambrym volcano. his sores well in hand; but the others are Next day we could see two beautiful praying for stronger and stronger cures, smoking cones rising out of the horizon even corrosive sublimate being too slow — the most wonderful experience. One for them. Wada talks in his sleep, and was Ambrym, the other Aoba, or Leper dreams of happy days in Papeete with his Island, 4,000 feet high. Big Mallicolo, native sweetheart. on our port side, tempted us repeatedly But Henry and Tehei are gloriously to put into its fascinating green baylets; healthy. Tehei has been catching fish - but we were anxious to get ahead to the big rainbow-bubbles of bonita — and his Solomons, where we might find a doctor. yells of joy as he hands them blobbing on Jack has gleaned enough from our medi- the deck are a tonic to all on board. Jack cal shelf to feel confident in diagnosing his says it's worth a hundred dollars to hear trouble as fistula — caused by he knows Tehei catch a bonita! not what, unless it be some infinitesimal .We sighted one of the Banks Group on fishbone. He has a new crop of sores, too the 23d. They were discovered by Cap — and ample company, for Martin, Wada, tain Bligh, in an open boat, on May 14, and Nakata, who disregarded all advice 1879, during his remarkable voyage from about corrosive sublimate, are all now Tofoa to Timor, after the mutiny of the "1'HE MID -PACIFIC 137

Bounty. They did not dare land and ex- northeast for the Solomons. We were pose themselves to the atrocities of the can- glad to be well away from Santo, as it nibal natives, preferring the perils of the is treacherously reef y, and the natives have open boat. an especially unsavory reputation and are Jack finished an article, which he calls the very astocracy and autocracy of the "The Amateur Navigator," and is now at New Hebrideans — athletic, strong, cruel, work on a Hawaiian short story. He is and well supplied with offensive weapons. certainly doing all a mortal man could Oh, it is a wild part of the world, this accomplish. — wild people, wild weather, and a wild, One evening we were playing cards in boisterous sea at times. On the 24th we the cabin, when Jack, who was facing the white ones all fell ill with violent head- open door into my room, exclaimed in a aches, as if we had been poisoned. It wore tone almost' of awe: off, and not the least of our comforts were "Great God !" Tehei's ministrations with his gentle hands, I turned cold, and followed his bulging in hours of lomi-lomi — his tauromi. To gaze, expecting to see nothing less than our repeated mauruuruu's he would nod half the warm South Sea breaking in. and bob and smile in the most benevo- What I did see was hardly more reassur- lent manner. ing — an enormous centipede, fully six It all wore off next day, but we felt inches, making unerringly up the bunk- weak and "rocky," as Martin put it. side for my pillow. Martin got it with In addition to the mryiad other things Jack's big office shears, and was so calm he is handling, Jack has a navigation class about it that I asked him why. "Oh," he of two, Martin and Henry. I am glad said, "I don't mind them. In Tahiti, the of this, for we would be in parlous pickle first day I got up, after six weeks in hos- if Jack were too ill to navigate. While pital, I sat on one. It didn't hurt much." this is going on, I work with Nakata and Our course from Efate had been nearly Tehei at their English. Nakata is nothing north; but passing between the Banks short of brilliant, and has already gone far Group to starboard and big five-thousand- past Wada in our language; but Tehei is foot Espiritu Santo on the left, we quit despairingly an infant, and can hold noth- the New Hebrides and set our course ing in his head over night. 138 THE MID-PACIFIC

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• Art In Japan

By HAMILTON BELL.

4.

ONCURRENTLY with a better though it is not until we come to the acquaintance with Japanese works Tempyo, A. D. 710 to 894, and Fujiwara, Ci-) of art has come the study of them A. D. 894 to 1185, eras that we find many by both Japanese and Western connois- buildings surviving to our day. The build- seurs savants, until out of the welter of ings at Toshodaiji are splendid examples of tradition, legend, and misunderstanding the the former period, while to the latter be- truth is beginning to emerge. longs what is universally acclaimed as the To take the arts briefly in their order. most beautiful building Japan, and per- The architecture of Japan, although al- haps the whole of the Far East, has pro- most entirely carried out in so perishable duced — the exquisite Byo-do-in at Uji. material as wood, has yet I show build- So highly is it esteemed that the Imperial ings dating from so remote a period as Government considered a reproduction of Suiko, A. D. 522 to 710. The Kondo and it the most fitting gift it could offer to Pagoda of Horiuji yield in dignity and im- the United States at the time of the Co- pressiveness to few buildings of equal age lumbian Exhibition in Chicago in 1893. in any material or part of the world. And When we reach the Kamakura period, they do not stand alone in their antiquity, A. D. 1185 to 1392, we find still more

139 140 THE MID-PACIFIC architectural relics for our study and de- statues hallowing the temples of Japan, light; and almost as world famous as the and we must pass on to the wooden. Some Byo-do-in are the Kinkakuji and Ginkakuji of these are among the most ancient exam- at Kyoto, which testify to the taste of the ples of this art to be found in the East, and great Ashikaga Shoguns, Yoshimitsu (A. the periods of Suiko and Tempyo are par- D. 1408) and Yoshimasa (A. D. 1449— ticularly rich in wooden statues. Some of 72.) these wonderful portrait statues, in which Of the splendid Momoyama era, A. D. the Japanese artists have surpassed the rest 1573 to 1603, although the famous palace of the world, may date from Tempyo. But of Taiko, which gave the period its name it is not until we come to the Kamakura and fame, went up in flames soon after its era that we meet with the masterpieces in completion, we have no pale reflection of this kind. It is sufficient to mention the its glories in the Nishi Hongwariji, built names of Unkei, his family and his school. by Hideyoshi in A. D. 1591, the Nijo to call up to memory an art of naturalistic Palace, also in Kyoto, and the castle of sculpture that can never have been excelled. Nagoya, though the last two were built The temples of Nara were filled with them later in the Tokugawa era, A. D. 1603 to and many of the finest are in the Museum 1868. Too much elaborated and detailed there. to please a severe taste, the buildings of Another peculiarly Japanese type of this last period have yet a splendor of their sculpture, dried lacquer, affords us exam- own, and it has been well said "Do not ples of the skill and versatility of the art- say magnificent until you have seen Nikko." ists of that land of wonders. The Kwan- The sculpture of Japan is even more re- nons of Sangwatsudo in Todaiji and at markable than its architecture. No other Horiuji in Yamato are most beautiful in- bronze statues of a size and majesty com- stances of the use of this material. Equally parable to the Daibutsu of Kamakura and fine work was also done in clay. The statute Todaiji stand today to witness to the piety called Bratuma, on the altar of the Sang- and skill of the ages that reared them. watsudo, is perhaps the most lovely exam- Perhaps one of the greatest losses the world ple of this, though there are many others of art has sustained was the destruction by equally good in Nara and Kyoto. fire of the head of the great Buddha of Until we reach the early Fujiwara Todaiji Castle in A. D. 749. If we may period, we stand on no certain footing in judge by the beauty of what remains and the matter of painting in Japan. One of the divine dignity of its successor at Kama- the most puzzling problems in the whole kura, five centuries younger, the effect of range of the fine arts is the authorship of this statue when it was first finished, with the celebrated wall paintings in the Kondo its golden flesh and carved features, must of Horiuji. Some critics see in them re- have been overwhelming. We are helped markable affinities with the Ajanta fres- in our effort to reconstruct this impression coes, while the temple tradition ascribes by the consummate beauty of the Kwannon them to a Korean priest, which is mani- of the Toindo at Yakushiji, which it is festly absurd. no exaggeration to say is one of the most The few paintings still remaining as- beautiful bronze statues in the whole cribed to Tempyo have so little to differ- world. Equally famous are the two Trini- entiate them from the work of the early ties Yakushi, with his two attendants, the Fujiwara that they may be left with a sun and moon deities, in the same temple, passing mention, though the lovely little the finer of which is ascribed to Gyoji, Kitchijoten belonging to Yakushiji must be A. D. 670 to 749. singled out for its many beauties. The few Too numerous to mention are the bronze original paintings by Kukai are so evident- THE MID-PACIFIC 141

ly based on the work of his Chinese masters teenth century), were perhaps the fore- that we must say, although he himself was runners of the great Kano school, whose a Japanese, his paintings are certainly not. work forms by far the largest part of the In the Fujiwara period we find a fully mass of Japanese painting. As all the developed art of painting domesticated in world knows, this dynasty of painters, for Japan. At first hardly to be distinguished they were all Kano by birth or adoption, from that of China, chiefly because of the was founded by Motonobu (1453 to 1490): subjects of which it treats — these being His greater son, Masanobu (1476 to mostly Buddhist, the various sects and im- 1559), the first to call himself Kano, was pulses of which religion were continually also the greatest master of the school. His beating in like waves from China — it nat- paintings are to be found in great numbers urally follows that the priests, who were in Kakemono and on Fusuma, in and about often painters as well as patrons, should ad- Kyoto. here with all the rigidity of their caste to A few painted screens remain to us from a literal and strict repetition of what 'was earlier days, but the vast majority of these to their minds an intrinsic part of the char- peculiarly Japanese and most lovely ob- acter and identity of the divinity represent- jects date from this and succeeding times. ed. But by degrees, more and more marked Kano Eitoku (1543 to 1590) introduced as we reach the Kamakura period, the a new feature into large decoration, name- Japanese individuality transgressed these ly, the use of rich, full coloring on gold hieratic boundaries, and its charm, which backgrounds, though this was only an not infrequently included a delicate humor, adaptation to a large scale of the method made itself felt in the most sacred and of the Tosa painters in Makimono. The canonical subjects. This is well seen in art of the Tosa school originated in Fuji- the many Buddhist pictures Ascribed to wara times and reached its zenith in those Yeshin Sozu (942 to 1017). As in sculp- of Kamakura, which may be called the ture, so in painting the Kamakura artists period of the Makimono. Eitoku's method exhibited a naturalistic tendency which is is well illustrated in the gorgeous decora- shown in their portraits and in the intru- tions of the Nishi Hongwanji. sions of landscape into their sacred pictures. Towards the end of that era the increasing Out of this grew the wonderful, and in influx of Chinese art and artists, driven many ways most original, art, which has from home by the disruption of the Sung had a profound effect on that of the pres- Empire, produced an entirely new art in ent day throughout Europe and America. the island. At first this art is hardly to This is the style which was founded by be distinguished from that of the Sung and Koyetsu and carried on by Sotatsu and Yuan painters, and discussion still exists Korin. In pottery and lacquer, as well as as to the Chinese or Japanese origin of painting, its triumphs are supreme and its numerous paintings of this time; for ex- influence far-reaching. It is to the art of ample, many of the groups of Rakan. these men more than to any other that Keishokei (A. D. 1345), Jesetsu, Oguri, Japan owes her position in the esteem of Sotan (A. D. 1464), Shobun (early fif- the Western world. 142 THE MID-PACIFIC Government Building, Panama Exposition, Panama.

The Pan-American Society of the United States

By DR. HARRY ERWIN BARD, Secretary of the Society.

HE Pan-American Society of the square miles; people whose official language United States stands for broad is Portuguese occupy one-fourth; and peo- TPan-Americanism. Its purpose pri- ple whose native tongue is English another marily is to promote closer relations of a one-fourth. The people of the eighteen re- social, intellectual, and cultural character publics whose official tongue is Spanish between the peoples of the United States number more than 50,000,000, those of and those of the other American republics, the republic whose official tongue is Portu- and among all the independent nations of guese number more than 20,000,000, and America in general. the people whose official tongue is Eng- The American continents from north lish number nearly 100,000,000. The to south contain some 16,000,000 square Republic of Haiti, whose official tongue miles. Within this vast area twenty-one is French, has a population of more than independent republics, embracing practically a million. three-fourths of it with a total population Just as the people of the United States of more than 175,000,000 of people, have inherited their early learning and culture been established. Roughly speaking, people from England so the people of Brazil in- whose official language is Spanish occupy herited theirs from Portugal and the peo- one-half of this area, or some 8,000,000 ples of the eighteen Spanish-speaking re-

143 144 THE MID-PACIFIC publics theirs from Spain. As subsequent But Pan-Americanism exists. The bases relations of the peoples of the United upon which it rests are fundamental and States were more intimate on the whole enduring. The ancestors of present gen- with the peoples of northern Europe so erations in America leaving the crowded the subsequent relations of the peoples of centers of Europe to possess the broad ex- the other republics have been more inti- panse of territory of the New World. mate with the peoples of southern Europe, whether coming from the north or from a circumstance which has tended to em- the south of Europe, whether settling in phasize inherited characteristics and cus- the north or in the south of America, toms with us and with them. For many were encouraged to new achievements, years these ancestral and inherited influ- imbued with larger hopes and broader ences continued uninterrupted. The in- views of life, inspired with new ideals and fluences of cross currents of thought or of higher conceptions of liberty and of justice, action were almost wholly lacking; the the full realization of which is still the peoples of the north and of the south in common purpose and desire of their des- America, though born to be neighbors, cendants of today. Five centuries ago the continued to exist practically strangers to seeds of Pan-Americanism were first plant- one another. It may well be said that ed; it is true that development has been elements which contributed effectively to slow. But who in the light of present the establishment of these twenty-one in- world-wide movements can doubt that it dependent republics served to render will not be so in the future? mutual intercourse and practical co-opera- Conditions are now rapidly changing. tion impossible, and the people of each Means of communication are improving; were left to work out their own problems the railways, the steamships, cables, tele- largely independent of all the rest. graph, wireless, are beginning to serve well There was no tide of travel and rela- their purposes. A north and south tide of tions from north to south. Means of com- travel and relations is developing with un-. munication were largely lacking. From common rapidity; the people from all parts very early times the tide of travel and re- are beginning to come together, eager to lotions has been from east to west; in contribute with their experience and America its center has varied only grad- achievements to the common good of all, ually, from about 40 degrees north lati- and Pan-Americanism in all of its various tude a century ago to about 25 degrees phases moves on toward a fuller and more north latitude at present. While a broad- complete realization. ening process has accompanied this south- The achievement of political indepen- ward tendency, the bounds of the positive dence of rulers in the Old World by the influence of the irresistable movement peoples of America and the establishment scarcely extended beyond the limits of of democratic forms of government was an North America before the beginning of event of vast importance, and it is not the present century. Wide-world move- strange that the political phase of Pan- ments as well as local influences and con- Americanism should have received first ditions have intervened to make close in- emphasis. By reason of the fundamental ternational relations in America difficult or importance of international relations of a impossible; and particularly is this true of political character, subsequent and per- relations between the United States and sistent emphasis on this phase may be the other republics. justified. The commercial phase also re- In view of these facts, one may say that ceived early recognition, although relations Pan-Americanism is, after all, merely a of a commercial character developed halt- fiction ; it is only a theory and not a fact. ingly. But now they are assuming pro- THE MID-PACIFIC 145

portions such as no one could have imag- tation approved by the membership com- ined only a. few years ago. It is unfor- mittee. Patron and sustaining memberships tunate only that these relations of a po- were provided for only recently. litical and commercial character should not Membership in the society is valued for have been made from the first to contribute opportunities it offers of identication and more effectively to closer social, intellectual association with those interested in promot- and cultured relations. These phases of ng the objects for which the society stands Pan-Americanism have been almost wholly and of participating in its activities, rather neglected. It has been as if political and than for the specific personal advantages commercial relations were thought all which accrue to members directly from the sufficient, and could achieve satisfactory enjoyment of such membership. development independent of and apart The Pan-American Society has for its from close relations of a social, intel- objects "to promote acquaintance among lectual, and cultural character. representative men of the United States The organization of the Pan-American and those of the other Republics of Amer- Society of the United States with head- ica; to show hospitality and attention to quarters in New York constitutes the first representative men of the other Republics effective recognition of the fundamental of America who visit the United States; importance of the social, intellectual, and and to take such other steps, involving no cultural phases of Pan-Americanism. It political policy, as the society may deem was inspired by the Hon. John Barrett, wise to develop, and conserve mutual Director General of the Pan-American knowledge and understanding and true Union in Washington. Organization was friendship among the American Republics effected February 15, 1912, with a chart- and peoples." The society's attitude to- et membership of 130. The membership ward commerce and commercial policy is is still made up largely of prominent busi- suggested by its attitude toward political ness and professional men of New York, policy. It has a broad fundamental interest but many of the other States of the Union it. both and will not lend its name or sup- are well represented and also many of the port to movements or enterprises involving other republics of America. Washington either. is represented now by twenty-two mem- But the objects of the society are more bers. comprehensive. All that make for closer The first president of the society was relations of an intellectual and cultural the Hon. Henry White, who is also the character, as well as social, fall within actual president. The Hon. Robert Lan- the eld of its interests, and questions as sing, Secretary of State, and his Excellency, to the best steps to take in order to broad- Domicio da Gama, ambassador of Brazil en effectively the scope of its activities in Washington, are honorary presidents. and the spehere of its influence and use- The vice presidents are the Hon. John fulness are under consideration. The Bassett Moore, the Hon. Cabot Ward, titles contemplate an extensive organiza- and the Hon. John Barrett ; and the Hon. tion with affiliated societies in different Elihu Root, Mr. Andrew Carnegie, and parts of the United States and in im- Mr. Archer M. Huntington are honorary portant centers of the other American Re- vice presidents. Membership is of six publics. The undertaking is important and kinds, honorary, patron, life, sustaining, deserves to attract the very general and regular, and associate. Honorary members active co-operation necessary to its complete are received on application or special invi- realization in the not too remote future. 146 THE M1D-PACIFIC

Summer and winter in Hawaii surfboard riding and outrigger canoe coasting on the waves reign king and queen of sports. Many who learn to ride the elusive surfboard re- main months and years in Hawaii instead of the weeks they had intended. In for a long ride.

•

A Sport of Princes

By L. W. DE VIS-NORTON. •

,VERY visitor to the Hawaiian gone abroad. It is probable that in every Islands, those gems of tropical civilized land possessing a seacoast and F beauty which lie in mid-Pacific, curling breakers some attempt has been has seen them ; everyone who has read in made to imitate them, but it is certain printed books of the ideal conditions under that in no other place in all the world which life is lived in these same islands has the art of surf-riding been brought to has received mental impressions of them ; such perfection of skill, or carried out everyone who has glanced through a dozen with such ease and grace as here in the pictures or photographs of these lands has Hawaiian Islands, so richly favored of come across at least one portrayal of them, God and of man. and every lover of clean, healthful, life- And at this present day, when all giving sport has heard of them. America hums the refrain of one of the The surf-riders of Hawaii—from one end most infectious songs ever written, and of the world to the other their fame has when its haunting melody is heard day

147 148 THE MID- PACIFIC by day in almost every place of entertain- lighted in challenging his friends to a trial ment throughout the great continent, it of skill. To this day there may be seen should be remembered that the locality the splendid remains of the most famous celebrated by the song, the famous beach papaholua or sledge slide in the islands. at Waikiki, is the present center and home This slide, which was most carefully built of the surf-riders of Hawaii. Day by day and is still bordered by a stone wall on the long emerald and purple seas cream either side, ran for a great distance up in over the coral reefs which hem the the mountain side, the lower end prob- shallows near the beach and give safety ably running clear down to the sea at the to the bathers; day by day the vast surges western end of the beautiful bay. It was rush in their might through the narrow paved with smooth blocks of lava and was entrances between the rocks, and day by kept covered with a slippery kind of day the graceful figures of the natives are grass which grew abundantly in the re- seen erect on their slippery surf-boards, gion. It was the custom of the Prince to riding steadily and swiftly towards the repair with his friends to the summit and golden strand upon which the rollers slide down on the narrow sledges which spend themseles in showers of snowy took great skill to balance, as far as the foam. coral beach below. Here he had a sum- Many are the imitators of the native mer house with a broad lanai, where he riders; many a' dweller in the Eden city would don his malo or loin-cloth and go of Honolulu has spent months 'and months far out to sea with his surf-board, upon in trying to acquire the poise and skill of which he would then shoot in to the his browner brother. To some degree of beach, landing at his house on the shore. conquest they may perchance attain, but We may go still further back in his- I would venture to state that never will tory for an authentic account of the pas- the white man outdo the true Hawaiian time, and turn to the period in 1779, in this most exhilarating of all outdoor when the great circumnavigator, Captain pastimes. Cook, paid his ill-starred visit to the isl- It must not be thought, however, that ands. It was in the exquisite bay of the sport of surf-riding is a modern in- Kealakekua, destined to witness his un- vention. It is indeed so ancient that it, timely death, that he discovered the sport origin is lost in the mysteries of the past, which has since become so famous all over but certain it is that from the earliest the world, and an interesting account has times of Hawaiian history it was the most been left by the historian of the expedi- common pastime among the people and tion. that from the humblest subject right up At that time, and indeed today, the to the greatest and most powerful chief surf which breaks on the coast around the and king, the whole population was wont bay extended to a distance of about one to indulge almost daily. hundred and fifty yards from the shore, Among the noted surf-riders of Hawaii within which space the surges accumulat- in the olden day was Kauikeaouli, who, ing from the shallowness of the water on the 17th March, 1814, was born at were dashed against the shore, according Keauhou, on the big island which gives to the historian, with "prodigious great its name to the whole group. The young violence." Prince, who afterwards became ruler of So expert were the natives of those days all the islands under the style of Kameha- that the sport was not indulged in unless. meha the Third, was from his early youth the waves were at their greatest height devoted to all manly sports, and it is re- from some extraordinary swell at sea, for corded how he excelled all corners and de- the writer records that "when the impetu- THE MID-PACIFIC 149

Surfboard riding has become so typical of Hawaii that it is now one of the great features of the annual February Mid-Pacific Car- nival and forms the subject of its color posters that are sent abroad to attract visitors. 150 THE MID-PACIFIC osity of the surf is increased to its utmost, case of failure, to dive before they reached the men and women choose that time for the rocks, and, plunging under the wave, this amusement, which is performed in an to make the best of their way back again. interesting manner." In the olden days this was considered Twenty or thirty of the natives, taking a great disgrace, and was also attended each a narrow board rounded at the ends, by the loss of the board, which was often would start out together from the shore, dashed to pieces at the very moment the and upon meeting the first wave would rider quitted it. The swimmers used often plunge under it, allowing it to roll over to pass nearly a mile seaward in order to them until they could rise again and make enjoy the rapid motion of their return as headway by swimming out into the sea. long as possible. Both sexes and all ranks The second line of breakers would be en• united in it, and as I have already said, countered in the same manner, the great even the chiefs and princes of highest difficulty lying in seizing upon the proper rank were wont to mix with their hum- moment for diving under it. If this inn- blest subjects in the life-giving sport. ment were missed the swimmer would be As corpulency was a thing greatly ad- caught by the surf and flung violently mired by the chiefs, and as they took great back toward the shore, all his dexterity pains to attain it, the humble subjects being then required to prevent himself must occasionally have been treated to the being dashed against the rocks and bat- edifying spectacle of a greatly rotund over- tered into a shapeless mass. lord suddenly awakening to the fact that he But, the second difficulty safely over- was headed on his surf-board direct for a come, the smooth water beyond the surf jagged rock and immediately seeking ref- would be gained in safety, and then the uge with a resounding splash and huge swimmers would lay themselves full displacement of the water. One may well length on their boards and prepare for imagine the shout of laughter which must their swift return to shore. As the surf have greeted his ears as he made the dive consists of a number of waves of which and the innocent, serious faces and the the third is invariably the largest and silence with which his uprising would he breaks higher on the beach, the rest break- met, for it was a serious matter in those ing in the intermediate space, the first ob- days to incur the displeasure of a chief. ject was to throw themselves on the crest The surf-boards used were of varying of this largest surge, by which they would sizes, according to the age and stature of be driven with amazing rapidity towards the owner, and no better idea could be the land. gained of the great physical development If by mistake they happened to choose attained by the Hawaiians of old than by one of the smaller waves and failed to keep an inspection of some of the great surf- their plank in the proper position on the boards formerly belonging to famous top of the swell, they would be exposed chiefs, and which may now be seen in to all the fury of the large wave follow- the Bishop Museum in Honolulu. The ing, and in order to avoid it would be boards were slightly convex on both sides compelled to dive and regain the startin- and were kept very smooth, their owners point. Thoes who succeeded in their ob- taking great pride in keeping them well ject, however, would have a still greater polished and continually rubbed with co- danger to encounter, for the coast being conut oil. guarded with a chain of bristling, jagged Such wonderful mastery of the waves rocks with only a very small opening here could only be obtained by familiarity with and there, they would be obliged to steer the waters from earliest childhood. A their board through one of these, or, in glance at some of the older woodcuts de- THE MID-PACIFIC 151

'meting the sport will show that the type monument erected to the memory of Cap- of surf prevailing in Kealakekua Bay was tain Cook may perhaps be lucky enough very different from the gentle swell fa- to witness surf-riding under the ancient miliar to visitors to the famous beach of conditions, but the average sojourner in Waikiki near Honolulu. The Kona surf these delectable islands as a general rule was indeed a thing requiring immense is satisfied with the less exciting perform- skill to negotiate in safety, and it is small ance to be seen daily on the Honolulu wonder that the historian of Captain beaches. That very considerable skill and Cook's expedition should have gazed upon much practice are necessary for the control the exhibition of surf-riding with much of even a modern surf-board will be clear- awe and genuine admiration. ly demonstrated by the plucky though The island children were able to swim somewhat amusing efforts of beginners. almost as soon as they could walk, and Cleanly, healthy, muscle and eye-devel- sometimes even sooner, their mothers tak- oping, surf-riding is a sport to appeal ing them from the breast and laying them strongly to the tired business man in on the surface of the water, atcouraging search of novelty and invigoration. There them to kick about as if lying on their are few more charming spectacles even in mats ashore. There is a most amusing this land of beauty than the daily troop account by an early writer of a terrific of surf-riders flashing shoreward on the meeting with an object which he took to crest of the long rollers. Sunshine, laugh- be a truly gigantic frog, but which eventu- ter, the beautiful surroundings of sea, ally turned out to be a very small baby mountain, and palm-fringed shores com- lying on its back in the water and gi avely bine in no small measure with the sport disporting itself in a thoroughly contented itself to give health, strength, and la joie manner. de vivre to all who participate in the an- Visitors to Kealakekua Bay and to the cient pastime of the Hawaiian people. 152 THE MID-PACIFIC Northgate Tower, Canton, overlooking the Mosque of St. Souvenir and the grave of Mahomet's Uncle.

The China Monuments Society

By FREDERICK McCORMICK (Secretary China Monuments Society.)

The looting and vandalism in China in 1900 and 1901, and the evidences of vandalism in past generations, manifested wherever monuments, sculptures, shrines, tombs, and other buildings existed, led Frederick McCormick (at that time a special correspondent in China) to form the China Monuments Society, to bring about the ultimate termination of looting and destruction of antiquities especially. The So- ciety has been .at work eight years. With its aid the legal control of the trade in antiquities in China has been brought abcut. In 1915 China adopted laws for the protection of monuments and historic places in conformity with the usage in West- ern countries. The proper respect among collectors, museums, and the foreign art world generally for the great artistic, structural, and memorial antiquities of China is being realized, owing to Mr. McCormick's efforts, supported by the sentiments and individual efforts of the Society's members. HE object of the China Monuments agencies and influences, and the protection Society, simply stated, is to secure and preservation of China's antiquities, T complete suppression of vandalism monuments and cultural objects. In in China by foreigners or due to foreign a memorial to the President of China

153 154 THE MID-PACIFIC

(1912), the aims of the Society were that his chief difficulty in trying to arrest elaborated for the purpose of explaining vandalism at Nanking was with foreigners. the whole field of the movement, which It has been an aim of the Society to induce included the encouraging of foreign and the Chinese to form a sister organization Chinese interest and sentiment and the in- to take charge of the matter for themselves. terest and sentiment of foreign peoples, so An attempt was made in Shantung, and as to create a public opinion capable of en- other attempts were made, but with no forcing the protection of China's monu- appreciable success. However, museums ments. It included the promotion of the were started in Tsinan Fu, in Mukden, study generally of China's art, monuments, and later in Peking. The latter came to and antiquities, the encouragement of grief at the time of the revolutionary out- travel in China, and the protection by break in Peking in 1912. China of foreign visitors to her territory. A large part of the success of the move- The need of means to protect antiquities, ment is due to the encouragement and sup- to say nothing of foreign travelers, ap- port of the British Minister, Sir John Jor- peared plainly during the Boxer war. dan, and of other British officials and the In 1908, when the China Monuments So- British press in China. It meant a great ciety was started, its first task was to create deal to have the cooperation and sympathy sentiment and a public opinion. In five of nationals of Great Britain, whose inter- years it had brought the subject to the gen- ests were so universally distributed within eral attention of the Chinese and to the the Chinese Empire and on its frontiers. leading Chinese and foreign authorities. Others of all nationalities have not failed The matter became recognized in the capi- to respond to the Society's appeal. In 1909 tals of foreign countries, and everywhere, the Navy Department at Washington lent as a responsibility. The proper attention of its cooperation. Later the Minister of scholars and high officials had been ob- Marines at Tokio did the same. In 1913 tained and directed to the consideration of the interest on the subject of China's monu- the world importance, and the unfortunate ments led to the initiation at Washington condition, in China of China's monuments, of a School of Archeology for China. art, and antiquities. This had been accom- More than a score of the foremost educa- plished by the simple means of posting in tional institutions and missions in China treaty ports and elsewhere in China illus- and Hongkong joined in the work of the trated notices warning against vandalism, Society. In 1914 more than fifty univer- and by the promotion of an exchange of in- sities, museums, and other organizations in formation and discussion in the foreign the United States came to its support, and press of China, Hongkong, Korea, Japan, together with it memorialized President and Eastern Siberia. Richard Watson Yuan Shih-k'ai, urging protection and Gilder, editor of the Century Magazine, preservation of China's monuments. The took up the matter in New York and Department of State at. Washington gave Washington. The cooperation of foreign its active support and instructed all United residents in the interior of China, especially States diplomatic and consular offices in the Christian missionaries, enabled the So- China to assist in the suppression of van- ciety to collect information respecting mon- dalism. uments as well as vandalism. The interest In the Society's memorial to President of the Chinese was awakened, and Chinese Yuan Shih-k'ai, 1912-13, attention was officials began to promulgate restrictions asked to the needs of foreign travelers in against vandalism, notably at Tsinan Fu China and the benefits that would accrue and Nanking. Tuan Fang was a pioneer in a financial way to railways, posts, tele- in this matter, and it is interesting to note graphs, inns, shops, and all industries, as THE MID-PACIFIC 155 well as to the people generally, to whom istry of Home Affairs to see to the preser- travelers would have both a commercial ation of monuments, and warned profit- and educational value. It was pointed out seeking dealers, guilty of surreptitious deal- that the study of a country by foreign scien- ings in monuments and antiquities, that tists and explorers, resulting in a better more stringent restrictions would be en- understanding of it abroad, would be a forced if necessary. The territorial offi- bulwark to its interests. Among other cials were ordered to earnestly prohibit the things, the fact that China was in a posi- traffic in monuments and antiquities. tion to profit generally by increasing the The archeological journals of the world, number of her friends abroad, by encour- especially the German and American, have aging them to visit her and treating them lent aid in the campaign of publicity. That well, was pointed out, together with the the matter had reached an important news opportunities in this matter presented to value is shown by the attention given it by the railways and other carriers. It was the daily press in East Asia, and in San suggested that the Goernment take charge Francisco, New York, and London, espe- of all places of public interest, especially cially in 1914. The exhibitions in Paris, along railways, make them national prop- 1913, served to illustrate the whole subject erty, and administer them for the free and of vandalism, as well as the achievements equal advantage of all. The principal in sculpture of the Chinese people, and the places of this character, such as the Im- place of the Chinese in the world's art. At perial Tombs, palaces, temples, shrines, and the Cernusci Museum a dozen or more im- places of natural beauty were mentioned, portant stone heads were exhibited, many and the methods of procedure in such mat- of them showing scars where they had been ters were submitted. recently broken from their settings in Ho- Similar memorials were submitted to the nan, Shansi, and Shensi. One important Minister of Foreign Affairs and to the life-sized relief of North Wei times, clear- Board of Communications. As a result a ly showing where it had been recently cut cabinet meeting took place at which the from the rock, had reached Paris some time matter was placed in the hands of the Min- since 1911. These objects pointed to the ister of the Interior, who submitted a peti- work of destruction of the now famous tion to the President, written from and em- Pin-yang-tung of Lung-men, near the an- bodying the Society's suggestions. A trans- cient capital of Lo-yang in Honan. The lation of this, which appeared in the Peking fact that the progressive depredations of Gazette (English), Peking, May 29th, vandals upon the rich archeological and art 1914, recommended the opening of a num- wealth of Lung-men and of China gener- ber of places to travelers and gave the list ally recalled the vandalism with which of buildings, enclosures, and sites in the Europe visited the shores of the Mediter- vicinity of Peking recommended by the ranean, served to arouse public attention Society as national manuments. With more than anything else. At that time the some modifications President Yuan Shih- looting of China in 1900 and the wanton k'ai approved the petition. June 14th, in destruction of a fine pagoda were by no response to the petitions of the China Mon- means forgotten, the memory of them hav- uments Society, President Yuan Shih-k'ai ing been kept alive by Putnam Weale's promulgated an order forbidding unre- book and by the Conger sale in New York stricted buying and selling of Chinese arti- advertised as loot, the self-confessed at- cles of great antiquity, and ordering the tempt at purloining the Nestorian tablet formulation of measures to arrest this traf- from Sian Fu, and many other acts of van- fic, especially the exportation of antiquities. dalism. Hardly any accessible monument He further made it the duty of the Min- had escaped. The Ming Tombs at Nan- 156 THE MID-PACIFIC king, Nankou, and elsewhere, the shrines ors, and dealers went on, to get into China to Confucius and Mencius, numerous great and carry off as much plunder as possible sculptural works of the country, the struc- before these laws could become effective. tures and show-places at Peking, K'ai-feng The country is entered from all points on Fu, Mukden, and elsewhere, all show the the east and north. Some of the expedi- vandal marks left by the foreign traveler, tionaries are scientists with name appand- merchant, and even the foreign resident of ages, sometimes benighted, generally hon- China. At the present moment hardly a est, disseminating knowledge, and princi- museum of importance in the world but pally intent upon landing innumerable cases has ten to thirty fragments of Chinese of antiquities, which can never morally be- sculpture, many of which have been broken long to anybody but the Chinese people, at from their settings in China, leaving ghast- some museum in the Western world, to ly remains that will forever show the mu- satisfy the vanity of some rich person, who tilations to which they have been subjected. has taken to collecting as a means of dis- Statues of heroic size, showing vandal chis- tinction. Some of them are pure thieves, elings where they have been cut from their some merchant adventurers, and some foundations, can be seen in a dozen of the merely, thoughtless and well-meaning pil- foremost museums of the West. Eight of grims and travelers. Every class undoubt- these were offered for sale at once by a edly is to be suspected and brought within dealer in Paris. Needless to say these the administration in China of laws which sculptures are of such an order as have not they do not hesitate to break, and which previously been seen in Western countries. they would not dare ignore in their own Their artistic merits excited the wonder of lands. The violators in China of such art connoisseurs, for their creators never laws, and those who would be violators of had been acclaimed outside of Chink, and them, loudly exult at the ineffectiveness of it is doubtful whether they received the the restraint upon foreigners in China. acclaim in China which once was due them. The best collectors and museums point out No man ever has uttered loud enough for that recently, even in Egypt under British us to hear the name of a single one of administration, it was said everybody could China's sculptors. It has been a long wait be bought except Professor Maspero, then to them for that fame which in art, Rus- head of the Department of Antiquities. kin says, is posthumous, accompanied by the They place their reliance in China upon gold that is poured into their coffins. In bribery, and are confidently preparing their this present recognition of their art is a exhibition rooms for the reception of more posthumous chapter to Sesame and Lilies. loot from China. It will become the duty The Chinese sculptors of several thousand of all foreign interests in China, as well years, waiting for their call, may now see, as of the agents of the Government at as their tufted footfalls rustle in the cloi- Peking, to defeat these plans and influ- sters of our great, the bloody trail of van- ences. dalism where they wrought, and the very The cause of China's monuments has not fragments from their chisels hoarded like appealed in vain to any class, much less to gold and gems among the princes and pal- archeologists and to lovers of art. The aces of the world. evils of the Western museum system are While the Minister of the Interior was deplored by scientists and scholars, as well engaged in the formulation of protective as by laymen. Dr. Herbert Mueller of laws for monuments, in accordance with the Berlin Museum, 1913, supported the practices of the most advanced coun- strongly the position taken by the China tries, a wild competition among vandals, Monuments Society. Persons associated archeological explorers, museums, collect- with British museums denounce the evils THE MID-PACIFIC 157 of the museum system as they are mani-able in the world. The consideration-, fested in China and elsewhere in the world. which led the United States Government The American Association of Museums, to consent to the use of a portion of the 1914, passed the following resolutions remitted Boxer indemnity for this purpose "WHEREAS, there is now going on are the same as those which led to the ap- throughout the Chinese Republic a whole- plication of the remitted indemnity to edu- sale destruction of objects of historical and cation in the United States of Chinese stu- artistic value, for the sake of those frag- dents, namely, the enlightenment of the ments which can be removed to Europe and Chinese people and their protection against America, entailing an irreparable loss to more strongly organized and supported civ- China and the world of memorials of the ilizations of the West, in particular the oldest civilization on the globe ; therefore evils of plunder by stronger powers, under be it the guise of war, culture, science, com- "Resolved, that the Chinese Government merce, or any other guise. be and hereby is petitioned to take all ob- The China Monuments Society is an or- jects of historical and artistic interest with- ganization consisting of a Committee, a in the Republic under the national protec- Secretary and Treasurer, and Members. tion; and further be it Any one interested in the aims and will- "Resolved, that the United States Gov- ing to encourage and aid in realizing them ernment be and hereby is petitioned to sup- wherever possible within his own sphere of port the Chinese Government and people action and influence may become a member in any measures they may take to safeguard by remitting the fee of four dollars Mex- such objects." ican (gold $2.00) per annum to the So- Practical and effective foreign coopera- ciety at Peking. The formation of the tion for the protection and preservation of Society has been preeminently justified, as monuments and antiquities of China began shown by the results obtained and by the November, 1914, when the United States need of a more vigilant watch over the Government, in agreement with the Gov- monuments of China in future and until ernment of the Republic of China, allo- the system of control devised by the Gov- cated gold $100,000 of the Boxer Indem- ernment at Peking can be enforced and made nity, remitted to China by the United effective through the Government's own States, to be used in preparation of museum agencies and the friendly assistance of for- quarters in Peking, and the collection there eign powers. To the eye and mind China of national antiquities and art, stored at may be made beautiful in her cities, in her Jehol and Mukden. These quarters are in streets and highways, and in ten thousand the Forbidden City, which in itself is a vast places that otherwise may be ruined, pol- museum, of its kind one of the most valu- luted, or made waste or vile. 158 THE MID-PACIFIC An Australian Trout Stream

.1* The Trout Steamers of Kosciusko

By DAVID G. STEAD, F. L. S. •

" 0 pastime in New South Wales are more popular than those draining the is more assiduously indulged in Kosciusko tableland. ...._ at the Christmas holiday season The trout streams immediately draining than trout-fishing. The angler has a the Kosciusko plateau, which at present are very wide range of streams in which to ply practically accessible, are, in their order of his art, most of which are well stocked importance : Upper Snowy River, Crack- with fish. Not so long ago there used to enback River, Munyang River, Spencer's be an annual summer exodus of hook-and- Creek, Perisher Creek, Piper's Creek, Dig- line men to New Zealand and Tasmania, ger's Creek, and Guthega Creek. The there being a general belief that much bet- Snowy River receives the waters of all ter sport was to be had in the waters of these, of which by far the most important are the Upper Snowy and the Cracken- those colder climes than in Australia. back (or Thredbo). These are magnifi- Nowadays anglers are paying more atten- cent streams, falling rapidly throughout tion to the home streams, none of which their rocky, boulder-strewn courses.

159 160 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Upper Snowy rises in the Ram's The Crackenback is known to anglers Head Range of mountains, a little to the and travelers generally as the Thredbo. northeast of the Ram's Head itself, and Throughout its upper course it flows at a within about a mile and a half of the considerably less altitude than that of the summit of Mount Kosciusko, one side of Upper Snowy — from about 4,450 feet at which ' it drains. It drains also the east- a point where it is joined by the creek ern aspect of the Snowy Mountains — in- running off the eastern slope of the Ram's cluding the Etheridge Range, Mount Head, to about 2,950 feet where it empties Northcote, Mount Clarke, Mount Lee, into the Snowy. The Thredbo takes its Carruther's Peak, Crummer Range, Mount rise in the ranges lying to the east of the Twyman, Mount David, and Gill's Knob South Ram's Head (the latter about three — from which it receives a great volume and a half miles as the crow flies to the of water through ,the melting of the winter south of the summit of Kosciusko). Run- snows, both by Guthega Creek and Mun- ning for a short distance towards the west, yang River, and by the many small creeks it soon changes its course and makes a clear to be seen draining every valley along its northeasterly run until it joins the Snowy, course. The western slopes of the Ram's with the upper part of which — say from Head Range, as well as the numerous iso- Long Corner upward — it runs nearly par- lated ranges between the latter and the allel. One of the old tracks to Kosciusko Snowy Mountains — including among oth- follows up the course of the Thredbo until ers, Mount Stilwell, the Guthrie Range, Friday Flat is reached, from where a course the Perisher Range, "The Paralyser," is set for the Ram's Head Range, crossing "The Perisher," Mount Wheatley, the the latter not far from Merrett's Outlook Blue Cow Mountain, and Mount Vernon (6,050 feet). The sparkling waters of — likewise furnish an abundant supply of the Thredbo run briskly along their boul- water through the many watercourses here- dery course, being joined here and there by about, the finest of these being Spencer's, mountain rills. and by one good creek, Perisher, and Piper's Creeks. From where known as the Little Thredbo River (near the road crosses the Upper Snowy (at the to the old Thredbo Diggings). Some of bottom of the ascent to Dead Horse Ridge) the vistas along the course of the Thredbo to the bridge-crossing at Jindabyne — a dis- are charming in the extreme. Here is a tance of approximately thirty-five miles by lovely, placid stretch of water, fringed by water — the course of the river falls nearly tea-trees and with great granite boulders, 3,500 feet, the altitude at the former posi- pink and gray and bluish, strewn about; tion being about 6,350 feet. Along the and now a roaring cataract, the water leap- upper portion of its course there are not ing and foaming as it races over the giant many reaches or pools of much consequence, boulders in the path, to quickly enter a the flow being almost constantly interrupt- rapidly-descending rock "run," then to ed by large granite boulders; but from spread out once more into the slow-flowing about the junction of Munyang River and pellucid pool. Here, too, is the home downwards there are many fine stretches of many a lusty trout — the humble agent of water and pools of considerable size, that has led many an Australian to see the such as those seen at Island and Long Cor- beauties of uplands which he had otherwise ners. A finer trout water than this glo- but little dreamed of. rious, sparkling stream could scarcely be Munyang River is similar in its charac- conceived, and when seen during the spring ter to a considerable portion of the very or early summer, when the snow water is uppermost reaches of the Snowy, falling coming down strongly, it is a sight that rapidly over a boulder-strewn course from will not readily be forgotten. its source, a little to the south of Gungar- THE MID-PACIFIC 161 tan Mountain (6,776 feet), till it reaches Creek, but does not carry so much water. the Snowy, about eight miles above Island It enters the Snowy just below the Mun- Corner. A great deal of snow is contrib- yang. uted to the Snowy River by this stream. The source of Digger's Creek is Pretty It is said to contain many fine trout, but Point (6,000 feet), famous for the mag- I know of no record of any catches having nificent view of range upon range to be been made so far. The Munyang is obtained therefrom. From here it flows reached by track branching from the main down towards the Snowy, till it reaches the Kosciusko road at Piper's Creek, seventeen lake at the Hotel Kosciusko, and from miles from Jindabyne and about three miles where it follows a very broken course, in- from the Hotel Kosciusko. tersected by falls and rapids — particularly Spencer's Creek is known to only a few the fine falls about a mile and three-quar- among Australian anglers, although many ters below the Hospice — until the Snowy people have crossed it, where the road runs is reached about Long Corner. about one mile beyond Bett's Camp. It Guthega Creek is one of the uppermost is a lovely creek, at a high altitude; join- feeders of the Upper Snowy, which it en- ing the Snowy about two miles due east ters amout a mile and a half to the south- of Mount Twynam, fed by the waters of east of Gill's Knob. It rises in the Snowy Wright's Creek (running down from Mountains, a little to the north of Mount Mount Stilwell), and other small creeks, Tate. While the snows are melting it car- but especially by Bett's Creek, which de- ries a large body of water over a very rives its water from the southern end of rough and rocky course. the Perisher Range and from a portion of The introduced Californian rainbow the Ram's Head Range. Spencer's Creek trout (Salmo irideus) is found aboundant- has many fine stretches of water in it, and ly in the Upper Snowy River, as well as Bett's Creek also has a number of good in all of the main feeders, and, to a lesser pools. It is everywhere easily accessible on extent, so is the European brown trout foot, and an exploration of its beautiful (Salmo fario). Still, there is no doubt course should not be missed by the tourist in my mind that these glorious streams are or the angler. not nearly "stocked up" yet. Many great Perisher Creek rises at the foot of "The catches of trout have been recorded from Perisher" Mountains and Mount Wheat- various localities on these Kosciusko ley. By its feeder, Rock Creek, it also streams from time to time, and, of the drains a portion of the main Ram's Head larger number of such that I have seen I Range ; it is a beautiful, fast-flowing would say that it is impossible to find stream, with many small pools and a few trout possessing a greater beauty of form large ones spread along its course, and and color. The magnificent fighting males interspersed with many fine cataracts and — deep, slab-sided, full of life and vigor, rapids. It joins the Snowy about one-third possessing a "color scheme" that not only of a mile above the Munyang River. no artist could reproduce, but that simply Piper's Creek rises in the ridge at Piper's beggars description. All of the waters Gap, and is also fed by Wragge's Creek, mentioned are easy of access from the the latter a pretty little stream which Hotel Kosciusko on horseback, as already crosses the Kosciusko road about five and tracks have been made through the more a half miles beyond the Hotel Kosciusko. inaccessible parts and others are in prog- Piper's Creek is very similar to Perisher ress. 162 THE MID-PACIFIC

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• .1 •:• E.1 Jala7ese garden in Honolulu.

Honolulu Beautiful

BY HER SCHOOL CHILDREN.

Mixing the races of man by inter- grammar and American history will have marriage so they may become one great in it representatives of four of the five homageneous whole may not be either great races—yellow, brown, black and practicable or desirable, but that several white, the honors being distributed races, each having its own religion, col- among Chinese, Japanese: Hawaiian, ors and antecedents, may live side by side Filipino, Portuguese and American. in peace, and work together toward a Not long ago the public schools joined common end, is being amply shown in in an effort of the Outdoor Circle of Ho- Honolulu. To the public schools of Ha- nolulu to make the city more beautiful waii much credit must be given for this Children of the grammar schools were good work. In the schools no color lines called upon for their written opinions on are drawn, no race divisions made, and "How to Make Honolulu Beautiful." the great world principle that all men are Some of these opinions are reproduced brothers is instilled into the minds of the here, in the exact verbiage of the differ- children, by example as well as precept, ent essayists. The first is a Chinese- from the date of entry into the first grade American opinion. to graduation from high school. In some "Since Honolulu has been called the of the schools the same class in English "Paradise of the Pacific," and is situated

163 164 THE MID -PACIFIC at the crossroads of the Pacific Ocean, it houses where disease always takes place. must be made very beautiful. The way "One of the most important things I to do it, is for all to join together, to want to do, when I am old enough, is help to work. For instance, when we see to vote for true and honest men who some one throwing some rubbish out in will make a city of real homes. I will the street, we must go up to the person try to help as much as I can in cleaning and kindly ask him not to do such thing, and making everything near my place because in doing so it will spoil the looks look well. If every person will do this, of the streets. Honolulu will soon be one of the most "If we traveled across the sea and wan- beautiful cities in the world. Everybody dered into a village in Africa, we should who comes to see our city will say, be amazed to see how the ignorant peo- "What a wonderful city this is !"—Fred- ple live in the midst of dirt. Those peo- erick Goo. ple have no idea of health or tidiness. This is a savage's way of keeping a town. "The first tree planting by the Kaiulani "We are surely well educated enough School pupils was before the inaugura- not to follow their ways. There are parts tion of Arbor Day in the Hawaiian Is- of towns, even in America, where a citi- lands. In 1900, a, year after the organi- zen would be greatly ashamed to take a zation of our school, Governor Cleghorn visitor. "What a dirty and tumble-down presented us with a little b inyan tree, place this is !" the visitor would say. This which he had rooted from the famous is no way of making a beautiful city. tree at Ainahau. Robert Louis Steven- "We could beautify our city by having son, the poet, paid a beautiful tribute to good roads and planting trees on some Kaiulani, for whom our school was of the roadsides. For instance, on River named. street there are trees growing on both "The little banyan tree was planted with sides of the river, and how much more appropriate recitations and songs, among beautiful it is going to look. We pupils them being the "Grandpa Tree," by Mrs. can help to beautify, and give a good Frear : name to our city, by taking good care of "Swing on the beard of the Grandpa our own schoolhouses. In doing this, we Tree, must never mar the walls or cut and in- Then climb where none can be seen; jure the desks, or make them unsightly. Hide-and-go-seek is a rare good game Not only this, but we must see that the Within his dressing gown green." sidewalks about our schoolhouses are not "Another memorable day was the day littered with papers and rubbish. when Mr. and Mrs. Gerrit P. Wilder "To do good to our city, we must be visited our school. They gave us seven respectful to everybody. We must show rare and beautiful hibiscus. By Mr. Wil- the same courtesy to people who wear der's directions six holes had been dug plain clothes as to those who wear the about a central one, and the entire school latest fashions. We must never be less assembled to take part in the exercises. kind to any one on account of the color He told us that he was going to name of his skin, whether it is brown, or yel- the plants after the days of the week, the low, or black, or white. central one, "Sunday," being called the "When we grow older—old enough to "Lillian Wilder" hibiscus. Around "Sun- vote—we must so vote as to make our day" were the plants representing the city the most cleanly and most beautiful other days of the week. The "Tuesday" place in which to live. We must vote hibiscus is called the "Kaiulani School to have plenty of good water and bath- Hibiscus," after our school. houses, to keep the streets well paved "Many of the trees growing in our and brightly lighted, and get rid of the schoolyard are cared for by the children. THE MID-PACIFIC 165

Among these is a row of Golden Shower. Some of the boys are too fond of climb- One of these was planted by Mr. W. H. ing trees, and sometimes they happen to Babbitt, who was then Superintendent of break the branches. This must be stopped Public Instruction, and the tree is called also. If we see these boys who do it we "Mr. Babbitt's Tree." -Next to the hibis- must ask them to stop it. cus hedge is a row of Poinciana Regia, "A beautiful city must have beautiful which looks like a flame of fire in sum- buildings and clean yards ; also clean mer. All our trees have been grown with school yards, and beautiful lawns with great difficulty, because the coral is near grass growing in them. Another great the surface. But the children have shown thing is to have good, kind, honest peo- interest by taking good care of them. In ple. If we have these things, the city this way we are helping in the larger will be clean and nice. So everybody movement called "Honolulu Beautiful." must be ready to help each other."—Keige —Florence Apana. Suzuki. "Once upon a time there was a man "We can make the streets beautiful by who was traveling around the world. cleaning them and planting shade trees "The first city he visited was filthy and of some kind to rest the eyes and make unwholesome. The people were noisy the city seem fresh. and quarrelsome. They threw their rub- If this is faithfully continued we will bish in the street. The sidewalks were not need any "Clean-up Day." Another covered with peels of fruits. The schools way is by dividing the wide streets, and were not kept clean, and the desks and making avenues, and planting grass the blackboards were injured. This city along the center, which will give a rest- is not beautiful, because the people were ing place for the tired pedestrian. careless and did not obey the laws. "To make the parks look nice by plant- "The next city he visited was kept clean ing grass, flowers and trees in them ; and beautiful. The streets were kept watering the dry spots of grass, and clean, and in some places he saw trees planting palms around it. growing along in a row. This helped to make the city beautiful. The schools "We should not mark nor cut fences, were kept clean and the children were to make them unsightly to look at. We not noisy. There were public parks for also should avoid going around the the children to play. The cottages were streets yelling, singing too late at night, neat looking. There were flowers grow- disturbing the sick or the working men ing in the paiks and nobody was allowed who need their rest and sleep. to pick them. "To make our own yards look beautiful, "This city is beautiful because the peo- we can plant trees, and grass in the front ple obeyed the laws."—Pin En. of the house, and mow the grass once a week, at least, to make it look beautiful." "To beautify the city, the streets must —Jno. Kaihamahaole, Hawaiian. be kept clean. The only way to clean the streets is to keep the sidewalks neat. The In these letters, racial characteristics streets should be well watered to pre- are noted in Chinese belief in and respect vent the dust coming into windows, and for law ; in Japanese conception of esthe- the mud holes must be filled in, for the tic beauty, and in Hawaiian and Portu- purpose of having good vehicle roads. guese delight in the living, growing "Beautifying the city cannot be done beauty of trees and plants. However, by the government or the grown people unity of belief and purpose was shown alone, therefore school children must help in all the essays in advocating cleanli- them. The bad habit of throwing papers ness, individual and public, and in insist- must be stopped, and we must learn to ing upon cooperation of all the people to- throw the papers in the rubbish heaps. ward the same end. 166 THE MID-PACIFIC In this region of steam and boiling water, household cares are few.

Thermal Wonders of New Zealand A most interesting and instructive account of the boiling lakes, springs and geysers of New Zealand's wonder region, as seen by an American journalist.

By MARY PROCTOR.

OTORUA'S straight, sandy were going to take next day, and to a streets, of great width, border- newcomer the remarks were somewhat R ed with trees, the frame houses surprising. with their red roofs and white verandas, "Pohutu was sulky today," I heard impressed me as being distinctly Amer- one lady say, and I secretly wondered ican, a duplicate of a suburban town in who the disagreeable person referred to, the United States. The bright lights out- might be, later learning that "she" was side a moving picture show served to merely a geyser. Awaiting us outside strengthen the illusion. Half an hour the dining room door was an affable after our arrival at the hotel, the gong guide, with an unlimited amount of pa- sounded for dinner, and then I had an tience and good nature, as he arranged opportunity to learn how the days are prospective tours for the following morn- spent in Rotorua. People were either ing. From a map hanging on the wall discussing the trips they had taken, or it was possible to trace all the trips, and

167 168 THE MID-PACIFIC selection being made, coaches were in had come. Looking down into the depths readiness the next morning. Those who of the spring, we could see hues of moth- intended remaining only two or three er-of-pearl, dark greens and blues, inter- days at Rotorua, generally selected the mingled with silver greys. In the sun- round trip, which I shall describe later, light the myriad hues of rainbow tints but knowing I had two weeks at my in the spring baffle description. disposal I planned accordingly. My Returning to the landing, we made book of tickets, obtained at the Govern- our way to a tea house conveniently sit- ment Tourist Office in Wellington, had uated near the place where the launch the first trip made out for a launch to awaited us. Greatly refreshed by tea the Okere Rapids, and coach ride to Ti- and scones, we re-entered the launch and kitere and back to Rotorua. Therefore, steamed along Lake Rotorua, and I arranged to join a party taking this through the narrow, willow-fringed trip the next morning. Ohau channel connecting it with Lake Lake Rotorua is eight miles across, Rotoiti. This is on the way to the Okere and we required an hour to reach Ha- Falls, which have been utilized to sup- murana, which is famed for its spring. ply the electric power for lighting the A picturesque walk led to a narrow wind- Rotorua township, a distance of 13 miles. ing stream, fringed with weeping wil- After seeing the Okere Rapids and Tua- lows, and tinged with lovely tints of blue tea Falls, we returned to the hotel, where mingling with green from watercress in we enjoyed a lunch which had been nice- the clear, shallow depths ; trout darted ly packed for us at the hotel, in a ham- and of course the usual cup of tea to and fro, and not a ripple disturbed per, the placid surface of the water, which was provided. After lunch, some returned by launch reflected every leaf and branch of the overhanging trees. to Rotorua, but four of us had engaged a coach to take us to Tikitere, a thermal Presently we came to a boat landing, center of great interest and importance, and after scrambling into a quaint, old- and directly upon the Line of volcanic fashioned, flat-bottom boat, we started on activity. It is situated about ten miles our way up stream. For oars, two long from Rotorua, somewhere near the junc- sticks were used in the most primitive tion of Rotorua and Rotoiti. It is a fashion, but there was no need for alarm, desolate valley of solfataras, mud vol- since we were rowing in water scarcely canoes, and boiling springs canopied by three feet deep. Gradually we drew dense clouds of steam. In the center of nearer and nearer to a leafy bower, over- the valley there are two boiling lakes, hanging what proved to be the spring, separated by a narrow neck of land, ap- the source of the stream we had forded. propriately termed "The Gates of Here apparently was a great rent in Hades." The odor of sulphur, and dense the earth, some sixty feet in depth and clouds of hot steam which occasionally only a few yards in width, an opening wafted apart, giving us a glimpse of the through which a clear, limpid stream boiling waves on either side of the gates, welled upward. From this spring, small had an appalling effect, for it was my fish about six inches in length occasion- first introduction to the thermal displays ally rose to the surface. They proved on of New Zealand. A little further on, we examination to be perfectly blind. Our were shown a yawning black pit in which boat was moored to a tree, as otherwise a great mud geyser spluttered and foam- the outflowing water from the spring ed, dashing its seething spray with the would have caused us to drift whence we awful activity of a mighty underground THE MID-PACIFIC 169

force which made the earth quiver and follow the guide closely amid these tremble beneath our feet. ghastly wonders. Even the path itself It was a relief to turn from this weird is only cool and solid on the surface, the scene, following a track leading to the white-brown earth being intensely hot hot water falls, where a warm stream underneath. This was proved by our leaps in a series of small cascades over guide, who dug a stick into the ground, the rocky steep. Farther on is another turning up a clod glittering with fresh desolate region, with a track leading to crystals of steaming sulphur. One step Terata, a formidable active mud crater off the path into some of the seething in the side of the hill, half a mile through muddy mass would cause disastrous re- the bush is Rotokawau, a lovely blue lake, sults. a perfect paradise of beauty and a de- Yet on the very brink of this inferno lightful contrast to the desolate region are Maori houses, or pahs, as they are of Tikitere. Nevertheless, one of the called, and Maori children playing, with passengers assured us on our return to happy unconsciousness of the dangers the coach that it did not compare with around them. A group of boys and girls Whaka, which within a limit of a few danced the haka for us, in return for a acres, contains every variety of geyser penny apiece, amusing us greatly with and hot spring imaginable. Consequent- the way they rolled their eyes and stuck ly, I determined to visit it the next day, out their tongues. Three little piccanin- as by the time we arrived at our hotel, nies were enjoying a warm bath in a cir- after the long drive from Tikitere, it cular pool just large enough to hold was too late to do any more sight-seeing. them, and women were washing clothes I lost no time, the morning after my in the hot water springs, or cooking po- trip to Okere, in securing a seat in the tatoes in the steam from others, house- 'bus which takes passengers to that resort hold drudgery being an unknown factor twice a day. As we approached Whaka, in this region so bountifully supplied which is only a mile and a half from the with hot water and steam. A shilling is Rotorua hotels, it seemed to me like an charged for admission to the thermal iron foundry in the distance, the puffs sights in the village enclosure, as it is of white steam rising up among green Maori property. However, there is noth- trees and shrubs resembling smoke from ing of interest which is not duplicated factory chimneys. However, the strong again and again in the government re- odor of sulphur as we drew nearer con- serve. Continuing along a path leading vinced me that it was an underground beyond the Maori settlement, the reserve foundry of an unusual kind. Near the is entered, and on an elevation at the entrance to the reserve, Maori guides right hand is the caretaker's house. awaited us, and for a shilling apiece of- We were shown a circular cup-like de- fered to show us the sights. pression sometimes called the Brain Pot, We crossed a bridge over the Pua- in which it is said the brains of Te Tuku- renga .Creek, into which Maori children tuku, an old chieftain, were cooked, aft- dived for pennies, thrown in by the pass- er he had been discovered in a cave ing visitor. Just across the bridge is the where he had hidden for two years. Close Maori village, and turning to the left a to the Brain Pot, and at the foot of a path leads to the celebrated Spout Baths, wall of rock, is the Wairoa Geyser. When which are largely patronized by visitors. in action, it sends up a mass of boiling A little further on is a lake of boiling water to a height of 100 feet or more. water, from which dense clouds of steam At odd times the government allows it arise, and a danger sign cautions us to to be "soaped," when magnificent dis- 170 THE MID-PACIFIC plays result, but not always. On the last the imprisoned plutonic forces beneath occasion, when it was soaped for the our feet. edification of the visiting team of Cana- Just beyond the Frog Pond is a large dian Scouts, it spurted out sideways, Maori pah, which is extremely interest- sending a stream of hot water across the ing and well worth a visit. It is, in fact, pathway, instead of upward, as expected. a Maori fort, the enclosure surrounding Standing beside it, one can hear a growl- it being a relic of the past. In the fort ing, groaning sound, as if an imprisoned are models of Maori homes, and a Ma- army of giants were struggling to be ori meeting house, with carved inscrip- free. Yet one grows accustomed to this tions and gods. alarming sound, scarcely heeding it after One of the most attractive excursions the first visit to Whaka. from Rotorua is known as the Round A few yards further on is Te Horo, Trip, and requires a whole day for its the cauldron, in which a great well of completion. 'Starting from the hotel at boiling water is always rising and falling. an early hour in the morning, our coach At is rises it boils furiously, and gives took us along a road leading over some off dense clouds of steam. When near- low hills and valleys diversified with ly full it bubbles and sends up spray and varied scenery. We obtained a glimpse jets to a height of from two to twenty of distant snow-clad mountains, beauti- feet. Then suddenly, and with a tremen- ful blue Lake Tikitapu, and its nearby dous overwhelming rush, Pohutu, the neighbor, Rotokakahi, of greenish hue, Splasher, which adjoins it, ejects a steam- until finally we reached Wairoa Valley, ing column of water to a height often the victim of the terrible Tarawera erup- reaching one hundred feet. On the oth- tion. er side of Pohutu, the geyser known as Now Wairoa Village is a green, silent the Prince of Wales' Feathers, which waste of young forest trees, poplars, aca- broke out seven years ago, also takes cias and gum trees, tropical ferns and part in the display, so that all three are shrubs, hiding beneath their verdant hurling jets of steam into the air at the beauty the scene of desolation. Only a same time. few relics remain of the old hotel that When the cauldron begins to boil, the stood there before the eruption—a frag- caretaker telephones to all the hotels, ment of wall, the rusty remains of an and visitors come as speedily as possi- overturned buggy, the hen coop in which ble, for although the display may last two children sought safety, and were some time, yet it is never quite reliable. saved. Unfortunately, Pohutu was sulky during Lake Rotomahana is probably the my visit to Rotorua, so that I am unable most weird and wonderful place in this to describe its charms from personal ex- region. It is bordered by high, rugged perience. cliffs, simply alive with steam-jets and To the right of Pohutu, and at the blow-holes, sound and sight, combining edge of Puarenga Creek, is the Pigeon to conjure up before the imagination a Geyser, within a few yards of a rustic sawmill or smithy on the other side of footbridge across the creek. On the oth- the Styx. The lake itself is warm in er side is a mud pool, which is called the some parts, and in others boiling, as one Frog Pond, because the mud spurts up of our party found to his cost when he like frogs from the seething, bubbling put his hand over the edge of the boat mass on its surface. It is fascinating to into the water and was scalded for his watch their antics, until one is suddenly pains. Tall pillars of steam and cloud recalled to the fact that it is caused by mark the spot where the Pink Terrace THE MID-PACIFIC 171 once stood, while the White Terrace is the water churned into dazzling foam buried just where the launch starts, rose higher and higher, until it formed gravestones of one of the world's great- an enormous frothing pyramid, from out est wonders. of which huge effervescing waves were The morning after our arrival at Wai- flung in torrents down to the Wairakei rakei we visited the celebrated Geyser stream below. Valley, which is situated about a mile Our shadows thrown on the steam from the hotel. The pathway to the val- clouds could be distinctly traced, increas- ley is bordered by beautifully wooded ing or decreasing in size as the clouds banks, and carpeted with ferns and vel- approached or receded. Moreover, each vety moss. Nowhere else are so many one of us found our heads adorned with marvelous sights, clustered so closely to- an aureole, but we could only see our gether. Within an area of a few acres own, those of our neighbors being invi- can be seen no less than ten geysers, in- sible. At first sight, we imagined we numerable springs, limpid pools, mud were alone in our glory, but we were volcanoes, and curious terrace forma- quickly disillusioned. tions. Weird sounds can be heard re- Higher up the valley we came to the sembling the thud of a steam hammer, Great Wairakei Geyser, where at inter- the steady rotation of paddle wheels, vals of about eight minutes, the water briskly boiling mud, and imprisoned in the triangular-shaped crater suddenly waters lashing furiously within rocky becomes violently agitated, and volumes walls, from which they finally escape of steam are ejected sometimes to a with a roar. height of fifteen feet, the whole eruption Most impressive of all the sights is lasting about four minutes. The lip of the Champagne Cauldron, so named be- the crater is covered with coraline fawn- cause of the exquisite sparkle of its ever- tinted sinter, over which the boiling boiling contents. The cauldron is 83 water flows into the creek below. At feet deep, and from 60 to 80 feet wide. the side of the crater, beyond reach of It is filled with water of a clear trans- the steam, vegetation grows thick and parent blue, with scarcely a ripple dis- green. Between the great Wairakei's turbing its surface when we glanced into ejections a regular throbbing sound, sug- its depths. However, the guide called gestive of a steam engine, attracts one's our attention to two little geysers which attention. It proceeds from a small pool were playing by themselves on the edge on the left bank of the stream, which has of the cauldron, scattering spray, which been called the Donkey Engine. It is an sparkled like diamonds in the sunshine. intermittent geyser, quiescent while Then we noticed bubbles appearing on the Great Wairakei is performing, but re- the clear surface of the pool, as though suming its puff, puff, the moment its fairy sprites below were longing to join neighbor ceases, as though the two were the geysers in their play. But the latter were soon overwhelmed, as the bubbles connected underground. Exactly seven boiled up higher and higher with a deaf- minutes after the last eruption, the Great ening uproar, immersing us in dense Wairakei does its "turn," and the Donkey clouds of scalding steam. By this time Engine stops throbbing. 172 THE MID-PACIFIC

• e•

This is on of the leading banks of W eltevreden (Batavia), Java. I t closed during the heat of the day, but is open for business every evening. It is built on the banks of the river • . flowing through the Javan capital. A bit of Dutch India.

Wanderings In Weltevreden

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY.

Sunday, February 8th. cellent breakfast. After breakfast we walked around Konigsplein and located T seven o'clock this morning the the sights, such as the Museum. Then we Malay boy brought coffee extract tried to find the English church, but it A that was very good, but the cof- was a weary search. At last we did find fee made from the fresh roasted Javan it, an old colonial style temple, with bean cannot be excelled. Later we went its many high gravestones under which into breakfast. We might have had hot officers lay buried who had fought with ham and eggs, etc., but it took ten min- the Dutch in 1811, but there was no serv- utes to prepare them, so we ordered ice. We wandered down by the stream cold poultry and meats. Large dishes of through the quaint Javan village, and there cheese and fruit were placed on the table. on the river nothing but the real Java Then there was the coffee extract — too was in sight. Joe got tired and went back strong in my opinion — but it was an ex- to the hotel, and I turned the opposite di-

173 174 THE MID-PACIFIC

rection and entered a church with a Chi- knocked out a few of their teeth, but I ex- nese name, but the service was in Dutch plained to him that they chewed the betel and conducted by a parson with a black, nut with lime, and so produced the blood- waving necktie. Wandering through the red juice. Governor's residence, I went through a In the afternoon I took a steam tram native bazaar and a market. There was line and went down to the old town. I every kind of fruit on exhibition in little took a map of the city with all of the im- doles. portant places marked on it and began to Later I wandered throuh another por- find them — the town hall, etc. The old tion of Javanese Batavia. I was almost city certainly is interesting, and the new lost in a maze of bamboo villages, where Java Bank is a work of art, as big as all streets were not more than three feet wide of the banks of Hawaii combined. The and extremely crowded. In the canal new business houses that were being built were many girls and women swimming, still retain the old Dutch style of archi- and I noticed that invariably they kicked tecture. I went on beyond the old town with both feet at the same time, with a to the canal that leads direct to the sea, loud splash that was effective in the ex- and saw the fish market, where the catches treme. are brought up in the native sailing boats, In one of the little bazaars I found which may be locked up in the other canals another kind of dourian. It was the and taken anywhere in the city. I wan- smooth-skinned variety, which I had not dered still further and visited an old tem: tasted. I saw the storekeeper open one, ple, the way to which was lined with beg- and inside, instead of long slices, were gars who merely held out their hands. Be- rounds lumps about the big seeds. I paid yond the temple were the fish ponds. I a half-cent for one of the lumps, and again began to wonder what would have hap- I tried the dourian, and must say that I pened in Honolulu if we had built canals do not like it. However, I did fool Joe, from Kalihi to Pearl Harbor and had en- for usually he can detect the slightest odor couraged the natives to keep up their fish of beer or anything else that I drink in ponds. We would not today be crying my breath, and if I indulge at lunch or out about the big price of fish. I visited any other time he makes sarcastic remarks. the old, spacious church building, built, I had a glass of beer while I was out, but perhaps, hundreds of years ago, and then the moment I came in Joe left the room, came up by the corner that leads to the remarking that he did not care to stay new town. There are a number of Chi- around people who had been out at canni- nese temples and joss houses, built in per- bal feasts gorging on over-ripe corpses - fect Chinese style — an example of what but he didn't detect the beer. the Chinese might do to beautify Honolulu Early this morning I was awakened by if only they had an incentive. a little black and white bird that trilled Coming home I noticed a small boy on like a canary. He sat on the ridge of the the street with a pannier full of ground Dutch tile roof overhead and sang away. leaves. I wondered if this was a betel He was not much bigger than an English nut boy, as he carried little sticks, evi- sparrow, and reminded me of the Austra- dently for lighting, and a spirit lamp in lian magpie. I wish we had him in Ha- waii. front of his pannier. In the fish market district I observed several places marked On nearly all of the trees in the hotel "Opium Smokers," and dropped in one of grounds there are blooming orchids, and them and found a few men enjoying the the effect in the evening is lovely in the extreme. pipe. There is an opium factory in the city, and unfortunately the Javanese are Joseph has not yet become accustomed to the women with the dripping red lips. taking to the opium habit. At first he thought their husbands had The freshness of Java is not yet wearing THE MID-PACIFIC 175 off, but it is difficult to put down my first was at once interested in the New Zea- impressions, as I have already written so land plan for monthly tickets good over much about the island. all the railways, and thought it very prob- able that the Javan railways would make February gth. some such arrangement for tourists. He This morning we called at the Official was also in favor of the railways combin- Tourist Bureau. I talked with the man- ing with the Official Tourist Bureau and ager for a considerable time and disagreed the steamship companies to be in the Pan- with him thoroughly in every other state- Pacific Pavilion at the Exposition. This ment he made. He was very certain the was also the one point which the secretary Tourist Bureau should not work with any- of the Royal Packet Company gave way one else, and that the railway and steam- to and the manager of the Tourist Bureau, ship companies would not. Gradually, so it seems that this may be accomplished. however, I battered down his barriers and We came back to the hotel and experi- he began to realize that Java was going enced our first "rice table": we were into the Hands-Around-the-Pacific move- brought great helpings of rice, and then ment whether the Tourist Bureau did or half a dozen waiters brought us about not, and then he began to moderate and twenty different dishes, with chicken, duck, was quite pleasant in providing me with chutney, eggs, etc., and all kind of hot pamphlets and other literatrue, but he is stuff to help ourselves from. It certainly one of the men that can see no use in was a combination, but we both enjoyed conferences and believes absolutely in leav- it, and by steering clear of the hot stuff ing well-enough alone, and that Java does and of all suspicious eatables I managed to not wish to learn anthing from the outside get a very satisfactory meal. world and should play for herself alone. In the afternoon we went for a ride out I called on the people of the Royal to the little town of "Meester Cornelis," by Packet S. N. Co. and talked with the sec- the steam tram line that goes very slowly. retary, who was most positive that noth- I an fully of the opinion now that life in ing could be done in the way of a pound- Batavia after a few days would pall on a-day rate among the islands, and that the the tourist. It is not like Honolulu, with Indies service was the most expensive in its ever-changing scenery and sights. The the world and therefore the rates had to town of Batavia stretches for several miles be high, but when I explained what the on either side of the canal ; perhaps a half- expenses on the Australian boats are he mile wide or a little more in its widest had nothing left to stand on, and he finally part, and after that comes the rice field decided that the matter should be taken or the jungle — there is no transition. As up with the chief director, Herr Lambach, we rode along we saw nothing but poverty whom I am to meet. in the streets — two miles of it — and I then called on Mr. Damme of the then we came to the end of the tram line, State Railways, and found him the most where several half-tamed deer were feed- progressive Dutchman I have met. He ing in empty lots.

RaWilY.5 VOLNA'013 "4-TRAMWAYS' — 144/.4 t-XP/2ESS ■ TEMPLES — 0.4W0 TR/NIOPO4.0 176 THE MID-PACIFIC

Mark '1,:kazn loved Maui and lao Valley, with its wonderful "Needle," reminiscent of his own Californian Yosemite peaks, but "Sam" was not physically energetic, and did little actual climbing; he preferred the shade of the banyan tree. Mark Twain's Hawaiian Home

Written in Mark Twain's Room by E. S. GOODHUE, M. D.

ARK TWAIN arrived on the Though its plots are agricultural palimp- steamer Ajax from San Fran- sests, it grants us a generous yield of man- M cisco on March 17, 1866. He goes, papaias, bananas, limes, oranges, sailed for San Francisco on the American lemons, alligator pears, and mulberries, bark Smyrniote on July 19, 1866. He as if we had not come here strangers to was in Honolulu on June 2, 1866, for the land. he dated one of his letters to the Sacra- What an abundant hospitality has. mento Union from there on that date. Mother Earth for the sons of men ! He made a trip to Maui, where he was Although we live in "town," there is entertained by Father Alexander in Wai- an ample lawn for the frolics of a boy luku either between March and June or and a dog, and a happy brook singing between June 2 and July 19. out of the foothills, runs through the He probably visited Maui in April or yard. May, and probably went on to Kau at the There is a large bed of geraniums same time, where he was the guest of which exhibits its octahedron of color ; "Charlie" Spencer. there are begonias scarcely less prolific; roses the names of which — are they not December, 10, 1897. fulsomely recorded in a score of cata- We are pleasantly settled in the little logues ! village of Wailuku, Maui, among its There are ferns, pinks, lilies, violets, trees, taro patches, and ensconced homes, and chrysanthemums ; foliage plants and at the head of its famous Iao Valley. shrubs to light the dense chlorophyll. Our garden is not large, only one acre To the left of the gate which intro- or so, but it was planted many years ago. duces our place to the villagers are two

177 178 THE MID-PACIFIC eucalypti, sweet-scented and tall as be- Trudged from this pretty bay to Wai- comes their ancestry. luku a few years ago, a lad in search of To the right is a royal palm. work. He found it on the plantation of A very royal thing to have, seeing that which he is now the manager — a mil- we do not indulge in any other princely lionaire, those who may know, say. possession. To one coming from the railroad sta- We sit and watch it grow, often by tion, Wailuku looks very picturesque, its moonlight, which is strangely luminous spires rising out of the foliage that adum- here, believing that in the long, down- brates several acres of these Maui moun- curving frond we discover visible motion tains, back of which rise higher ones, and just as other dreamers have,,,,thought; they where to one side is the Iao gash. heard "the music of the splieres." As it acts as a sort of aortic vein for The old branch grows daily more many waters, it is not likely ever to heal. brown and ragged, finally falls, disclos- A part of the village goes down into ing at its insertion a monstrous bud. the valley, crossing the Wailuku River How are birth and death involved in over a good bridge. River street leads the development of life! by several native houses and Malulani I have often realized that we "draw Hospital, past the sugar mill, the Broth- from nature the lesson of an intimate ers' School, to a hill where once stood Divinity." the old mill. We pull the leaf away — an officious Opposite, a large papaia tree has grown kindness like that of breaking the between the spokes of an immense wheel, "piped" shell—and the sheath points to holding it up to ridicule for its out-of- the ground. dateness. Odd enough is the papaia any- In a day the covering is loose, and we way, with its unarchitectural branching have a blossom: a feathery tassel adorn- and goitrous fruit-bunches. ing the throat of the tree. Odd enough to be a remnant of ages Week in and week out the change goes when reptiles flew and dragons invaded on. There were four dried-up spaces sea, land, and air — in the days of me- on the tree when we came. gatherium and elephantopus. The Doctor has thrown down a chal- Hard by is the house in which Mark lenge that with him I climb this palm, and I have accepted. It was hard work Twain used to take his meals, years and getting up the smooth trunk, but we did years ago, when he was a young man. it like boys, and like a boy I skinned my Main street begins in a long line of leg coming down ! It is not every house- Chinese and Japanese stores, barber shops, holder who can boast of climbing to glory poi pounderies, and coffee saloons. A on such a royal way. jeweler has his sign out: "Kan Hang." At the turn of Iao Street (the nomen- December II, 1897. clature is my own) is the place where I understand that although Wailuku an old carpenter shop stood, and to this was harder to reach from anywhere than shop Mark Twain often came to loaf and it is now, it once had more people in it. gossip with the owner, who long ago dis- Being about eight miles from Malaaea appeared with all, the appurtenances of Bay, to which one steamer comes each his industry. week from Honolulu, and three miles Iao street goes on up the hill, quite from Kahului, where other boats arrive, indifferent to historic landmarks or the the place is by no means "out of the allurements of advertisement, past native world." law offices, the Episcopal Church, a very THE MID-PACIFIC 179 tall, shabby African palm, to the town's probably old when the author of "Huckle- four-corners. berry Finn" sat writing in it. He slept Outward, to the left, is Waikapu street. here during several weeks, part of the It boasts of the hotel, once a Masonic night and a half of the next day, as was hall. his wont, using this table as I am doing More interest lies along Iao street, now. through the trees, to the old mission The soft Hawaiian sunshine falls in house, hidden from view by its wonderful darts and spangles just outside my win- garden. dow, and the winsome breeze pats my It is a commodious old house, built cheek with a caress so affectionate and much a:- it would have been in New Eng- distinctive that one thrills to it. land, with an upstair porch at the gable Nymph, naiad, dryad, whatever it be, end and two skylights. A brook gurgles its touch is feminine and tender. No by. wonder Mark Tawin loved it. In it lies Rev. A. P. Alexander moved into this the secret of that power which haunts house in 1855, taking the place of Mr. the heart of a man who has ever come Armstrong, father of General S. C. Arm- here. strong, who was born in the building. "No alien land in all the world has • The ruins of an old seminary, once any deep, strong charm for me but that taught by Father Bailey, may be seen one: no other land could so longingly nearby. In 1844 Jarves wrote of the in- haunt me sleeping and wakening, through stitution as "a most excellent school." half a lifetime as that one has done." Here Charles 'Warren Stoddard came December 31, 1897. afterward on a pilgrimage, but except in Father Bailey has just painted us a characteristically delightful and dreamy picture of "The Needles" in Iao Valley. impressions of Wailuku, Ulupalakua, and Though very old and feeble, he is inter- other Hawaiian places, we have no record. esting. He published verses, a monograph on Hawaiian ferns, and some autobi- January 2, 1898. graphical . sketches. He had a great deal A few days ago I called upon Mr. to tell us about Melville's "Typee," Armstrong, who lives alone in a cozy which he visited. adobe house set in full view of Hale- In the garden are many beautiful trop- akala. In his old age he acts as clerk of ical trees new to us: camphor, cinnamon, the court, but when I knocked at his door teak, palms, and bananas. he came to receive me, and pleasantly We drank water from a tapped trav- granted me an interview. eler palm (which is a species of plain- The old man had been working in his tain ). Rain is caught in the long, ba- garden; visible sweat stood upon his fore- nana-shaped leaves, and runs in between head. and his hand trembled as he ex- the stems into genuine reservoirs. By tended it to me. cutting a little slit in the leaf, you get About the house was a hedge, shutting a drink of pure, clear, cool water. in potted plants which filled the place Man is the most improvident of Na- with their perasive fragrance. ture's children, as evidenced by this palm "Yes, I knew Mark Twain, or Sam and the camel's hump. Clemens as we called him then," said Mr. Armstrong, as he clipped some leaves off January 1, 1888. a blood-red begonia. "I have never told I am sitting in a roomy bungalow, the story for publication, because most of under a mango tree, in a house that was those interested were living. THE MID-PACIFIC

"Sam lived in Wailuku for several he'll be where I am, and I'll be writing weeks and boarded at our house. My easy checks.' wife was alive then, and my children "He wasn't a bit mad when he said were with me, but they are all gone," this, though there was fire in his eye, and continued the old man, looking at his he didn't say who the chap was that cut flowers, "and these are all I have left. him up so. Sam is an old man, too. "Sam liked to ride, and used to go a "It was in 1867, I think, and we lived great deal with my wife's sister, who was down at the corner of the road by the old then a young lady, and mighty fine look- mill. There were no streets. ing if I do say so. I sometimes thought "I had met Mr. Clemens in Virginia Sam was inclined to be soft, and I think City, where he lived. He was very care- that on one occasion he came near pro- less in his dress, but I am told that his posing. At any rate, my sister-in-law wife has changed all that. thought he did, but you can't always tell "Of course he had that peculiar Mis- about the ways of a man with a maid. souri drawl they talk about. He rode Being human and a man, Sam probably all over the country horseback, dressed in didn't know himself just how far he could a linen duster which reached nearly down trust himself with a pretty girl. For he to his feet. hadn't a red cent, not even decent clothes. "This was enough to ruin the pride of "I wonder if he remembers the time any horse, and judging from what Sam one of the girls cut off about three inches has written about the horses he had, some from the bottom of his duster! of them were badly spoiled.* "I'm sorry we didn't have a snap-shot "It is reported here that he went about of him, but in those days photography with only his duster on, wearing it as the wasn't out of the hands of experts. natives do their holokus, but I never saw "Mr. Clemens was writing for the San him out with less than a pair of drawers, Francisco Call, the Bulletin, Alta Cali- "An old native, who died here lately, fornia, and the Sacramento Union. let Sam have a number of the horses he "But he didn't get much pay, and was rode. He would ride down to the house, often hard up. Being generous himself, get his supper, then come out on the ve- he wasn't bashful about asking for a loan. randa, and, placing his feet alongside mine I've let him have many a half-dollar for on the railing, smoke and talk for hours. cigars. "One evening he seemed worried, and "He would write over at the other smoked harder than ever; then, with a house, where he slept, until two or three dig of his foot, said : 'Damn him! he o'clock in the morning, then sleep late did me up, but a time may come when next day. " 'I like kanakas,' he said to me once, *Our kanaka horses would not go by a `because they're not ashamed to acknowl- house or a but without stopping; whip and edge they're lazy. White men are. spur would not alter their minds about it, Though we are all intrinsically disinclined and so we finally found that it economized to hard labor, we all work more or less time to let them have their way. Upon in- quiry the mystery was explained: the natives and make a bluff to be thought mighty are such thorough-going gossips that they industrious.' never pass a house without stopping to swap "Some say Sam sowed his 'wild oats' news, and consequently their horses learn to here; if so, I never saw any of his grow- regard that sort of thing as an essential part ing." of the whole duty of man, and his salvation not to be compassed without it.—"Rough- "Did you know Stoddard?" I asked ing It." Mr. Armstrong. THE MID- PACIFIC 181

"I knew him too," was the reply. "He to Dr. Enders by Queen Emma, and came long afterward. He was more of stood here in the '60's when Mark Twain a Bohemian than Sam, and could talk used to ride by. better than anyone I ever knew. Bill Goodness is always ready to tell "He had seen a good deal of high life, how he came to Hawaii, bought this prop- and loved to tell about the theatrical folks erty and "nearly" run out the Inter-Isl- he knew or had seen. and Steam Navigation Company. "I remember he recited a list of actors Inside, where "Me, I always do my who had come to Honolulu in early days tinkerin'," I noticed on the wall a testi- and played in the old Royal Hawaiian monial signed by Joshua L. Chamberlain, Theater. Among these was Edwin Booth, Governor of Maine, in recognition of who, in 1850 or thereabout, lived in the valuable services rendered the State by old theater much in the way that Stod- Bill Goodness. dard lived there." "Me, I knowed Sam Clemings," he continued reminiscently. "Higbee, his 10, 1898. January pardner, he come to Hawaii with me. Up or down Iao street, one of the most He tol' me Sam he was too pesky lazy conspicuous things to be seen is Bill Good- to fetch the water to wash dishes when it ness' sign, "Bismarck Stables," hung half come his turn in the mornin'. They across the street. In her book Helen "bached" it, you see, in a little cabin onto Mather says : their claim. But they never realized "The portrait of the premier of three nothin'. Sam was too lazy to hussle. emperors hung creaking by one hinge." Me, I seen him lots of times — slim and There is no portrait of Bismarck and sort of hump-back lookin', long nose like never was. yourn, and down-right far-seein' eye. "See," said Bill to me one day, as he "He'd walk around with his hands in pointed to his sign, "my eyes isn't good his pockets, an' fer the life of me I now, but you kin see it's the pictur of a couldn't tell him no lies. He'd wrote Mexican ridin' a bronco, with a bunch some fer the papers that beats mine." of cactus to one side, and t'other side is "If you have a photograph of yourself, a thoroughbred named Bismarck. Mr. Goodness," I said, "I'm sure Mark "Me, I have Mexican blood in my Twain would like to see it." veins, and I knows a countryman when I Bill looked quizzical, then answered: sees him.. Dr. Herbert of Honolulu painted that 'ere sign. "You can't fool Sam with no sech stuff "Me, I recollect them wimmen that as that. He's a writer, but he's got a wrote about it. One was a writer; me, mighty lot of sense alongside of his smart- I seen that at onc't. She had an air of ness. one that's lost suthin', she don't know "Me, I hain't got no picture now — what, but's a-lookin' fer it." nothin"cept that paintin' of myself by Since Mrs. Mather was here the sign an artist that got stranded here, Strong has been tied up with a string and will his name was, I think. I give him $40 last for several years yet. fer the job. In front of this notable place is a "It looks a darn sight more like Ben Bougainvillea vine five feet in circumfer- Butler than me, but I accepted it. You ence at the base, covering two houses and see, none of them paintins looks like what a driveway between. The vine was given they's painted fer." 182 THE MID-PACIFIC The Visayas and Zamboanga

By P. L. BRYANT.

ERHAPS there is no portion of the An area of great promise, the Visayas Philippine Archipelago possessing already lead in the production of many of p more features of interest for the the more important products of the Phil- student of Philippine development than ippines. It is here that are found the the "Visayas." This is the general name best sugar and some of the best hemp given to the central portion of the Archi- lands. To the tourist perhaps, they do pelago, and it includes the large islands not, outside of the cities of Cebu and of Panay, Negros, Cebu, Bohol, Leyte Iloilo, abound in "sights." Rich in their and Samar, beside a very great number present state, however, these islands hold of smaller islands and islets. These isl- potentialities beyond the dreams of those ands, though greatly broken up by moun- Filipinos who are there prosecuting neg- tains, contain the most thickly populated lected agricultural lines. districts in the Philippines, and constitute, The two principal cities of the Visayas by far, the largest area inhabited by a are Cebu and Iloilo, and they carry on single stock (Visayan). an amiable contest for the dignity of

183. 184 THE MID-PACIFIC

ranking as the second city of the Philippines. portions of the Island of Panay, consists Iloilo, the western entrance to the Vis- of an extensive plain, extending far back ayas, is situated on the east coast of the to the foot of the range of mountains that Island of Panay, along the lower reaches traverses the western part of the island. of the river whose name it bears, and is This wide stretch of country is splendidly about 300 miles from Manila, in a di- adapted to the production of rice and rection a little east of south. Its present sugar. The Panay line of the Philippine population is about 40,000. It has direct Railway Company cuts directly through shipping connections with Europe, the it, extending as far as Capiz, the capital Straits Settlements, China, Japan and of the province of the same name, in the Australia. There are two prosperous northern part of the island. Owing to banking institutions and a number of im- the enlightened methods employed by the porting and exporting houses, and the lo- company, the railway, though it has been cal trade reaches up into high figures. in operation but a short time, has already Ships of great draft anchor in the har- had a marked influence on the develop- bor, where they are well in shore and ment of agriculture. Several rice and protected. The city has good connections sugar mills have been put in, several new with a large part of the interior of the haciendas, with modern mills, and near island, for the railway reaches a number the city, extensive irrigation works are of towns, and there are excellent high- being constructed. ways. Cebu, the largest city of the eastern Iloilo contains comparatively few land- Visayas, is the oldest European city in marks in the ordinary sense of the word, the Philippines and one of the oldest but it has much to show that will interest Occidental settlements in the Far East. the traveler and make his stay agreeable. Discovered and temporarily occupied by It is a well-built town, with a number of Magellan in 1521, it became a permanent modern concrete buildings and several Spanish possession in 1565, being thus al- good American and European stores. The most exactly the same age as that other population, though mainly. composed of Spanish settlement of St. Augustine in Visayans, contains a large cosmopolitan Florida. It is situated about *midway on element, with Chinese, Americans and the east coast of the island of Cebu; and Spaniards in the lead. The Chinese do this latter is practically co-extensive with a large business, some of their more im- the Province of Cebu, of which the city portant merchants paying import duties is the capital. The province has the of more than half a million pesos per an- largest population of any in the Archi- num. There is also a considerable and pelago and is one of the most thickly prosperous Syrian colony. There are a inhabited. The city has a good harbor number of establishments where the work protected by the Island of Mactan, and of preparing and weaving the fine native the scene which presents itself from the "jusi" and "pilia" cloths can be inspected. moment of entering the channel between Iloilo is one of the chief homes of these this and the mainland is a very busy one. beautiful fabrics, and their manufacture Extensive port works have been com- is carried on as a household industry in pleted, and seagoing vessels of large draft most of the towns of the province. are able to tie up along the docks. The country surrounding the city, for The present population of the city of which it serves as shipping port, is one Cebu is about 65,000 including a number of the most fertile sections of the Philip- of Chinese and other foreign Orientals. pines. The whole province of Iloilo, The American colony, exclusive of the which occupies the eastern and southern military and transients numbers about THE MID-PACIFIC 165

200, and the British and German com- mish with the then savage natives. A munities are also important. There are monument marks the approximate site a number of clubs, of which the Cebu, of the struggle. At an unknown spot the United Service and the Casino are near this monument lie the bones of the the most popular. great navigator. Cebu is a fascinating mixture of old The great Island of Mindanao is per- and new and contains a considerable haps the richest of the archipelago. In number of places of special interest. The size, it is second to Luzon. This island waterfront is busy with the various ac- is divided into sveral administrative dis- tivities arising from the city's position tricts, the first of which, in importance as one of the chief centers of the Manila and accessibility, is the district of Zam- hemp trade. Here is a good opportunity boanga, the capital city of which is Zam- to see the finest grades of this important boanga, situated at the extreme end of staple, of which the Philippines have the southern peninsula. This is also the practically a monopoly. Most of the capital of the whole Moro province and places of historic interest are within a is one of the most important ports in the short distance of this point. On the main islands. plaza is a small building housing a large The community of Zamboanga is the hollow cross. This contains within it an- most cosmopolitan of any in the archi- other cross, which, according to the most pelago. It consists in the main of Moros probable story, is the original one erected and "Zamboangueflos," Christianized Fil- to mark the spot where Magellan gath- ipinos of various stocks. There is a large ered for the first mass on Philippine soil. admixture of other Filipinos, Orientals But a short distance away is the old and Caucasians. The city is one of more triangular Fort San Pedro, standing ap- than a little historic interest, for it was, proximately on the sight of Magellan's for more than three centuries, the rally- fortifications; and in the same neighbor- ing point of the Christian forces in their hood stands the Augustinian church and seemingly endless contest with the Mo- convent. Here the sacristan will show hammedan pirates of the eastern seas. to visitors the curious image known as Zamboanga has a healthful site, and is the "Holy Cross of Cebu." It is agreed generally considered by the residents by historians that this is the one which somewhat cooler than Manila. It has was given by Magellan in 1521 to the been described as the prettiest town in the temporarily converted wife of the Rajah islands, surrounded by a beautiful coun- of Cebu, and recovered forty years later, try, and having an air of prosperity and after the landing of Legaspi. Calle Colon, progress. In addition to these attractions, the oldest street in the islands, with its Zamboanga has great potential importance many time-worn buildings, is well worth as a trade center, due to its position with a visit. The main street leading west respect to Borneo, Australia, the Dutch from the town, past the railroad station, possessions, and the Malay peninsula. continues out a short distance to the pro- The main sights in the town itself are vincial high and trade schools; and thence the provincial building, which is probably to the Southern Islands Hospital. the handsomest, architecturally, in the Mactan Island, across the bay from islands, being fitted up with fine polished Cebu, is one of the sites which connect native hardwoods; and the old fort of the Philippines with the current of world "Our Lady of the Pillar," long the 'center history, for there, on the 27th of April, of Spanish opposition to the Moros. In 1521, Ferdinand Magellan, probably th the outskirts there are several points of greatest navigator and discoverer that the interest reached by excellent carriage world has known, met his end in a skir roads. 186 THE MID-PACIFIC Part of Sydney Harbor.

Coasting Along the Island Continent

By J. H. MACKINNON. •

o YOU want a cool, delightful trip she carried eighty passengers, among trip? Then pack up your grips whom were many charming people. D and bags, forget your worries and Shortly after tea-time, and whilst we make arrangements to take one of the were running down the bay, the wind coastwise steamers from Melbourne, on the changed to the south, the sky commenced ten-day voyage between the ports on the to be overcast, and it looked as if we were Tasmanian and New South Wales coast. in for a stiff blow "outside." Fortunately, . We did, and we have never regretted however, our fears in this respect were it. The day we left Melbourne was a allayed, and in the morning we awoke to scorcher. The sun seemed as though he find the steamer tripping along with fair realized we were escaping him and was de- weather conditions. termined to take a parting shot at us so Our first port of call was Stanley (Cir- we should not forget him. However, that cular Head), which we reached shortly made us but the more eager to get aboard after lunch. During a four hours' stay a the steamer and away. large quantity of cargo, consisting chiefly We had "booked" early, as the officials of potatoes, was taken aboard for Sydney, of the steamship company had advised us, whilst the passengers roamed about on so we had delightful berths in a pleasant land. Having a "Brownie" camera with cabin, which the steward called the "best me, I managed to get some interesting on the ship." And certainly. it was most snaps of ketches and other small craft ly- comfortable. ing at the old wharf, high and dry, during We had chosen the steamer "Sydney," the fall of the tide, which is very pro- of the Melbourne Steamship Company's nounced on this coast. Although Stanley line, for the trip. She is a comfortable is spoken of as an out-of-the-way village, boat of three thousand and odd tons. That a caddy of golf clubs hanging outside one

187 188 THE MID-PACIFIC of the local stores showed us that the vil- "barrack" each other. We endeavored to lagers were up to date. One of our party, persuade one another to have a shave or with the golf fever in the acute stage, hair-cut, but without avail. We then burned to have a hit on the local links, tried force, and nearly got one of our whilst another wondered if the "Nut" party in the front door in spite of his pro- (Circular Head) was one of the bunkers; tests and struggles, when the appearance if so, what would the local rules be in re- of her ladyship at the counter to see what gard to same? "all the row was about" made us run like A visit to the old cemetery was also in- school boys at the signal "yow." A fur- teresting, and much conjecture was in- ther saunter round the town brought no dulged in over the graves of the early more excitement, and soon we began to settlers, and over the old, weather-worn wend our way back to the ship, and short- tombstones found there, some of them so ly afterward were in dreamland. old that the inscriptions had worn off. Our vessel left Burnie about 2 a. m., Hitherto the boat party had not and when we awoke we found ourselves "bumped togther"—we had not got on alongside the wharf in the River Mersey, speaking terms with one another; but at Devonport. It was a bright, sunny the conjecturing at the cemetery brought day, and as we were not going to put to us in touch with each other more, and sea again before evening, we heard with soon we began to realize that there was great glee that the Melbourne •Steamship a jovial party doing the trip. Yarns and Company had arranged drag-drives into anecdotes commenced to be spun, and it the country during the morning, and was only the warning whistle of the motor trips on the river in the afternoon. steamer that made us feel how quickly About six vehicles left on the drive, which the time had gone. was for about seven miles, through lovely The next port of call was Burnie, fruit-growing country, to Latrobe—a small which was reached about 9 p. m., after township, with a prosperous look about it. a very pleasant run along the picturesque Large quantities of cargo leave Devon- coast-line. The day had been a bright, port by every boat, and as a fruit-growing sunny one, the air felt fresh and invigor- district it is rapidly coming to the front. ating, .and, coupled with the fact that we We had plenty of time to have a look had all partaken of and enjoyed the over the township and notice the wonder- meals up to date, there could be no cause ful strides it is making. We walked also to wonder why we felt "fit." Our arrival to the mouth of the Mersey, and viewed at Burnie gave a lot of interest to the one of the lovelist scenes obtainable on localities, for they swarmed about the any coast-line. There is one thing Devon- pier, and as soon as the gangway was let port can glory in, and that is its pic- down swarmed on to the vessel examining turesque coast—an artist's paradise! On her with all the interest of those over- the return to the vessel we were able to looking a P. and 0. or Orient liner. Even have a look at the new, wireless telegraph the music-room received its share of visi- station—the "latest" curiosity, if it can be tors, who opened up the piano and gave so termed, in Devonport; also Uncle an impromptu concert, much to our de- Leek's famous rustic museum and tea- light. Not much of Burnie could be seen house—two sights worth seeing. by night. Some of the shops were open, We cleared the port shortly after tea, but only one excited any curiosity—the and then entered in on the long run to lady barber's. As we walked along the Eden (Twoflold Bay). All day Satur- street we pulled up one by one at the day we were at sea, running before a shop, to have a gaze, and, of course, young gale, which, however, did not trou- THE MID -PACIFIC 189 ble us in the slightest, for all sorts of modern villas on the raised coast-line all games were indulged in, those giving the situated with a fine costal and sea view. most fun being deck-billiards and potato The bay itself is a pretty one. No one races. Up to this time the captain and can visit the place without learning of the his officers had not had much opportunity Scotchman Boyd, and his acquaintance to mix with the passengers, but during the with Twofold Bay. In fact, two "mon- long run they were well to the fore in uments" still stand to his memory—his their endeavors to entertain their charges. lighthouse and his large residence, both We had had many opportunities of wit- conspicuous landmarks now falling into nessing the careful and skilful handling ruins. of the ship whilst running in and out of Boyd persuaded a number of Scotch- the various Tasmanian ports, and so con- men, less canny than himself, evidently, gratulated ourselves on having a good to entrust him with funds to establish a skipper, but when the captain took a colony and huge cattle runs in Australia, turn at entertaining he proved himself to so the story goes. He landed at Twofold be "one of the best." The mysteries of Bay—no doubt attracted by its beauty— the log line, and the various sorts of com- and selected a large tract of country, passes were explained to an interested which turned out to be poor land. He group; likewise many other points in built the large mansion on the shores of navigation, and after a visit to the cap- the bay, and also the lighthouse, and tain's cabin I am almost sure one of our lived the life of a thorough gentleman party began to reckon himself a sailor for some time. After a while inquiries bold, juding by the way he unconsciously commenced to be anxiously made by his gave the typical "fore-and-aft" sailor interested friends at home about the re- hitch to his "breeks" and pushed his cap turns from his venture, and on these be- more firmly on his head, as if about to coming too pointed, Boyd "quitted," and take his watch on deck! With plenty of thereafter his history becomes supposition. fun moving the day sped on, and by 9:30 At Sydney, which we left at dusk on p. m. most of us were in our berths sound- Thursday after spending a glorious three ly asleep. days' motor-launching about the harbor We reached Eden early on Sunday and visiting the numerous places of in- morning and stayed there a few hours, terest, other tourists boarded the vessel to which enabled us to have a good look at do the round-trip, and soon we found this picturesque port. To practically all that we had some good musical talent of the passengers this place was a revela- aboard. We enjoyed fine weather the ation. Instead of a few whalers' and whole way and everything conspired to fishermen's huts as expected, we found strengthen our determination to have an- four large hotels of a good class, and sev- other trip on this comfortable ship at no eral stores and business places, and some distant date. 190 THE MID-PACIFIC

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O O The Pineapple in Hawaii

By J. E. HIGGINS, Horticulturist, Hawaii Agricultural Experiment Station. O

T IS only a few years ago that the by a still heavier stratum. Good drain- foundations for pineapple growing age is an absolute necessity. In the pine- I were laid, and less than a decade since apple belt of these islands, on the areas any rapid development began. As is often which up to the present have been oc- the case with new enterprises, it was the cupied by pineapples, there are three subject of scorn and ridicule, and land general types of soils, including the red which now smiles with its ,golden harvest soils, the chocolate-brown or shotty soils of fruit was said to be useless for any pur- and the black soils. Opinions are divided pose except the grazing of a few cattle. as to the relative merits of the red and The pineapple is not exacting as to chocolate types. The black soils, which soils. Flourishing plantations may be are, perhaps, the most attractive in ap- found in Florida on the lightest of sandy pearance of any soils in the islands, have soils, while in Hawaii broad fields may been found to be the least desirable for be found upon very heavy soils subtended pineapple cultivation, because of the very

191 192 THE MID-PACIFIC high content of manganese, which acts as or three in number, or may spread over a poison to the plants. the whole of the fruit, making a large, Pineapples are found prospering in Ha- deformed, fan-shaped top to the fruit, waii from sea level to elevations of about greatly increasing the amount of core, and 1,200 feet or more. The usual pineapple in extereme cases rendering the fruit use- belt lies just above the cane area, but on less for marketing. Whether these plants lands not sufficiently watered for cane the tend to transmit such, peculiar character- pineapples extend to the lower levels. The istics to their offspring is not known, al- moisture requirements of the pineapple are though good results have sometimes been supplied by a rainfall of about fifty inches reported from the use of such stock. The per year; if this is reasonably distributed same question arises in regard to plants throughout the twelve months, but a very which produce fruit of any particular large precipitation does not appear to be shape. Fruits are found quite cylindrial injurious to the plants, provided the drain- in shape and almost as large three-quar- age is perfect. In the district of Hilo, ters of an inch below the crown as at on the Island of Hawaii, pineapples pros- the base, while others are tapering in per where the rainfall sometimes exceeds form. Some experiments are now in twelve feet per year. Standing water will progress to determine whether this char- not be endured, and flooding for even a acteristic is inherited or not. If it short time is likely to ruin the crop. is proved to be transmissible, it will be Except for the purpose of breeding new possible to select plants from those of de- varieties, the pineapple is always propa- sirable form. gated by parts analogous to cuttings. Of Most land on which pineapples are these there are four different kinds— planted in these islands is either virgin young shoots arising from buds in the or has been previously planted in pine- axils of the leaves; crowns, the tuft of apples. There are few instances where leaves at the top of the fruit, and slips, pineapples are planted on soil which has the small shoots attached to the sides of been occupied by other crops, except the stem. Fields planted with suckers where some quick crop, such as water- mature earliest, but are irregular in their melon, has been used as a means of pre- ripening. paring the soil for pineapples. Either Suckers, crowns and slips are prepared virgin soil or that which has been in pine- for planting by removing a few of the apples will require very thorough prepa- leaves at the base and cutting off the end. ration. If too many leaves are taken off the tis- Soils that have been in pineapples for sue exposed is very tender and is liable four or five years usually require quite as to decay. If left too large they are li- much, or even more, preparation than the able to be blown out of the ground by virgin soils, because of the hardened con- the wind. All plants so prepared are dition which the subsoil has acquired dur- generally allowed to lie in the sun for a ing the years of constant surface tillage. few days until their cut surfaces are Not a little difficulty was experienced in dried. the early years of pineapple growing in Only healthy .plants are selected as a these islands by making the second plant- source of supply for new plantings. To ing upon soil insufficiently prepared, and what degree certain peculiarities of form this led to the belief by some that the in the pineapple are inherited is not pineapple was exhausting upon the soil known. Quite a number of fruits may be and that probably not more than one found in most fields producing multiple planting could be made. Experience has crowns. These crowns may be only two taught that this idea is not well founded, THE MID-PACIFIC 193 and it has been well known for many throughout the entire time the plants are years that the pineapple plant is not ex- standing upon the soil. The plants being tremely taxing on the soil. Thorough rather close together, support each other preparation and spring planting appear to more or less, as they do in close planting. solve the difficulty. To prepare the rows for planting, a If the soil is virgin it has been found small plow is run twice through the same a very good practice to get a short crop furrow, throwing the soil in opposite di- from it during the months of preparation. rections. This is usually followed by a Watermelons are successfully used by cultivator passing through the row. If some planters and with good profit. fertilizer is to be applied at planting PLANTING. time, it may be placed in the row before the cultivator passes through. A plant- Distance and Arrangement. There are ing line is then run up and down the row. many plans for the arrangement of the This line is specially prepared, according plants in the field. A type of one of the to the system of planting which is to be most common methods consists in placing followed. It is usually made of ordinary all the rows equally distant apart, say clothes-line wire in which brass rivets about four feet. Plants in the row are have been placed at the same distances at placed twenty inches apart. The number which the plants are to stand. Any un- of plants on an acre set in this manner evenness in the furrow is corrected by the and allowing for driveways is between use of mattocks and hoes, so that the 5,000 and 6,000. A second arrangement plants can be set with accuracy in a places the rows about three feet apart and straight line. A man passes along the the plants in the row about fifteen inches row, distributing the plants as he goes, apart. Under this system, allowing for and is followed by the planters, who push crossroads, approximately 10,000 plants the plants down into the mellow soil, are placed upon an acre. With very which is slightly pressed down about them. wide planting a considerable proportion one plant being set at each' rivet in the of the first crop runs to so large a size line. The depth at which they are plant- that there is loss in sizing down to the ed depends upon seasonal and soil condi- dimensions of the can. This is not wasted, tions. Crowns cannot be inserted more now that so many secondary products are than about one and one-half inches in the being put up, such as crushed, grated, and soil. Suckers can be placed deeper, and shredded fruit and pineapple juice, yet the in warm weather when the soil is not too highest-priced article is the large-size slice. wet they are placed three or four inches Those who advocate this system of plant- in the soil. In wet weather it is not safe ing also defend it with the claim that the to plant them so deeply. plants soon cover and shade the greater part of the ground, thus eliminating much The fruits required by the canneries hand hoeing. The third plan provides for their best grades of canned product for the setting of double rows. The weigh from three and a half pounds up- plants in the row stand two feet apart . ward. For such the highest prices are and two rows are thirty inches apart ; paid, and anything running under this then comes a space of five feet, followed standard must usually be sold at half by another double row. This plan gives price. Most canners prefer fruit running about 5,000 plants to the acre after allow- about four pounds. The fruit should be ing for land used in crossroads. This is as nearly cylindrical as may be secured, one of the most popular methods of plant- in order to supply as many slices as pos- ing, as it permits of the use of cultivators sible from each fruit. Tramping in Central California

By E. D. MOORE.

ALKING is a perennial delight these mountains raise their regal heads and in Central California. There come and say: W are many ways of seeing the "Something hidden; go and look behind the beauties of this region, but the rarest ranges. pleasures await those who wander from Something lost and waiting for you. the more traveled highways to "hike" Go." among the hundred lovely little wilder- You may enjoy your own good company nesses, over the mountain ranges, or into or join congenial tramping clans such r great redwood forests. the Sierra Club, corduroy and khaki-clad, To the north, east, and south of :' who follow these foot-pleasing path. Francisco Bay are heights from which the Your equipment should be stout shoes, climber may view vistas of wonderful preferably studded with hobnails, and range and beauty. Fruitful vales look up lunch. On most of these trips you may to panoramic peaks thousands of feet above return to your starting place in time fo- the Pacific. With commanding majesty a well-relished dinner, or spend the night

194 THE MID-PACIFIC 195 at convenient inns. All are within a few and midway over this shoulder the Sierra hours of the cities of these counties. Morena Mountains rise to almost half a The Coast Range of Central California mile above the sea. Flanking the eastern is a grouping of from three to five for- slope of the Sierra Morena, green foot- ested ridges, parallel to each other an hills mask the Spring Valley Lakes, set to the Pacific, walling delightful interven- amid beautiful surroundings. ing valleys trending in a general north- In Golden Gate Park, the Presidio, westerly direction. From forty to sixty- and the Twin Peaks Range of San Fran- five miles these mountains roll inward cisco are over fifty miles of trails that lend from the Pacific in undulating waves from to wilderness effects within a few min- two thousand feet to more than a mile i utes of the heart of the city. Sutro forest, height. just south of Golden Gate Park, covers Highest of these ridges is the Santa several square miles of pine and euca- Lucia chain in southern Monterey County, lyptus trees. Nearby are Twin Peaks, which attains an altitude of 5,600 feet . Mounts Sutro and Davidson, ranging The most noted of these panoramic peak, from 930 to 950 feet. They merit the are Mount Tamalpais, in Marin County, first attention of the walker, because he 2,604 feet; Mount St. Helena, in Napa, may view a wonderful and far-spreading 4,343 feet; Mount Diablo, in Contra panorama of the bay and its cities from Costa, 3,850 feet; Mount Hamilton, in their summits. Santa Clara, 4,209 feet, and the Castle San Francisco boasts a hundred hills to Rock and Ben Lomond ridges of Santa Rome's seven of renown. Its "Sierras" Clara and Santa Cruz, 3,260 and 2,500 are more lofty than even Sir Arthur's feet respectively. Seat, the scenic citadel of Edinboro town. Wherever you may elect to start from, Fifty miles south of San Francisco by the residents will gladly volunteer fresh- rail or motor lies San Jose. Round about hand directions to their local beauty spots it spread 125 square miles of orchards. and enable yoti to find the way without In Spring a white surf of blossoms sweeps trouble. At every village and town you across Santa Clara Valley, to break in a will find lodging and refreshments, at the spray of petals upon the wooded foothills most reasonable rates. on either side. To the east towers Mount Just as a starting point, let us take San Hamilton, 4,209 feet, with its great ob- Francisco. servatory. Westerly the Santa Cruz Looking at the map the San Francisco Mountains culminate in the dome of peninsula resembles a rugged left arm bent Loma Prieta, 3,790 feet high. at the elbow. The fist is the city and Santa Cruz Mountains cover an area county of San Francisco; the index finger is equal to the White Mountains in New Fort Point, facing on the Golden Gate, on England and the Catskills combined. which the Presidio military reservation of Parted in the middle by the San Lo- 1,500 acres fronts, and the long sweep of renzo River, the Ben Lomond Range white surf-line meets the protuberance of lies nearer the coast, while the Castle Point San Pedro, forming the elbow of this 'Rock Ridge looks down on the enchant- arm. Curving around this elbow to Point ing checkerboard of the Santa Clara Val- Pillar is the graceful dimple of Half Moon ley. In the heart of these mountains lies Bay, and a little farther south the arm joins California Redwood Park, owned by the the shoulder at Tunitas Glen. State. It is a public preserve of primeval Between Tunitas and the southerly arm redwoods, 3,800 acres, rimming the wa- of San Francisco Bay the peninsula widens tershed of the Big Basin. This wonder- to about seventeen miles, half its length, ful woodland is twelve miles from Boul- 196 THE MID-PACIFIC der Creek and twenty-six miles from Santa tramping through its great forests and Cruz, one of California's most delightful over its mountains without once taking beach resorts. a back-trail. Just across the bay from San Francisco, Four longitudinal ridges of the Coast • the cities of Berkeley, Oakland, Piedmont, Range roll across the Counties of Sonoma, and Alameda, with a population of 300,- Napa, and Solano. Drained by the Rus- 000, have at their back doors a range of sian River and Sonoma Creek, the Napa rarely beautiful hills which elsewhere River and Putah Creek, a series of val- would be called mountains. Immediately leys lie between the rugged ridges. Above back of Berkeley, Grizzly Peak and Baldy these landscapes rises the crown of Mount attain 1,760 and 1,930 feet respectively. St. Helena, 4,343 feet, immortalized by Well watered and wooded canyons lie Robert Louis Stevenson in "The Silver- concealed among their wrinkled contours. ado Squatters." masked by a parallel range of gracefully Sonoma Valley, "The Valley of the folded foothills. Redwood Peak, above Moon," the home of Jack London, the "The Heights," home of the late poet, celebrated writer-rancher, is a most at- Joaquin Miller, is robed with a young for- tractive district. In Sonoma County, too, est of redwoods. near• Calistoga, is the famous petrified for- Mount Tamalpais is endeared to the est. Napa County is the happiest combi- cosmopolitan million who reside about the nation imaginable of orchids, vineyards, romantic bay of San Francisco. As Vesu- and fields, with mineral springs and vius views the Bay of Naples and the health resorts. Mediterranean, so does Tamalpais view But whatever else the tramping lover the Bay of San Francisco and the Pacific of the romantic and picturesue may see, Ocean. he should not miss a tramp through the A ferry ride of half an hour from San Francisco brings the traveler to Sausalito region about historic Monterey Bay. For every lover of the open this is a treasure on the north side of the bay. From Sausalito electric trains glide around the land of rare attractiveness. It is here one spurs of Mount Tamalpais through a finds the enchanted coast, indented by dozen beautiful suburban towns. Near- kelp-covered coves and peopled by those weird arboreal gnomes, the most noted of est of these is Mill Valley, whence runs the Mount Tamalpais Railway, around which is the Ostrich Tree. 281 scenic curves to the Summi Tavern, Near Carmel - by - the - Sea, California, a little over eight miles. Half way up, home of the literati of the world, and a branch line drops down into Muir four miles from Monterey, rest the bones Woods, a beautiful forest of giant red- of Junipero Serra, founder of the Califor- wood trees, many of which are from two nia missions. The entire Monterey region hundred to three hundred feet high. is replete with historic interest and pos- Marin County is full of scenic beauty, sesses a never-ending charm for lovers of and weeks could be delightfully spent the picturesque and unusual. ADVERTISING SECTION Among the Hawaiian Islands

Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Steam Navigation Company.

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The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAM SHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat (S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5 :00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday arid Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. F-Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in tact, of this wonderously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid markable Polynesian collection in the world. Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfer- are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating meral of -.he wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park. The Island of Oahu

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- VANCOUYER latial ocean greyhound service between San SEArT E Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, i` fAC /F/C have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & 0:1:01YANIA .1 403 Cooke, Ltd. AO' -----""""E_- HAWAIIAN 1. 1.,00 t4s0 SLANDS 0 ;404 This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- ONO 1,861 lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- lulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam Navigation Company. The adjoining of- fices are used by the firm for their busi- ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. .10 SYDNEY y Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for 40 iocatuort many of the plantations throughout Ha- of ik waii, and here may be secured much varied Hawa iian 0' --- islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- 21 phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

OAHU Areoff5100 Spqrt Kies 59 1 . HNOtOlii NORM*, SCHNL Length of 15101d 96 Mrit5 rlf B,c4a,i, uf 1514ne, 2 5 Mil0 Pyrst t 1,-, ,,;■ ,,11' 660,030 Ft PPEf taia.AIM COPylitOHYLD BY RFulotiol Over 60000 Pe.ope wtftts T Pon;- Ni,m (re, eaidomo 2100 nit 5 Blgoiet floe Jcpo 3,4o0 Mlles Darer frcriA4stw,04iph40,0 I Governmat Rood around Island 5N-ckss Raiirotkd 5tster.., .5,,,, rep for 1900 lt,i,n Lai,

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The Island of Oahu is more than half the size of Rhode Island, although it is one of the smallest of the Hawaiian Group. The Island of Hawaii

Map by courtesy of Alexander Et Baldwin.

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The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware. On the island of Maui, on which Alex- to sail to or from Hawaii, and the exact ander & Baldwin are agents for the larg- movements of the large Inter-Island est single sugar plantation of Hawaii, is steamers. This truly American concern Haleakala, the largest and most wonder- has diversified interests in all of the isl- ful extinct crater in the world, as on ands, and is therefore interested in the Hawaii, Kilauea is earth's largest ac- development in every way of every part tive volcano. On the island of Kauai, of the Territory. where this firm also has its interests, The Hawaiian group is composed of there are canyons as varied in color and seven large and a number of small isl- variety of scene as any in Arizona, while ands. The largest island of the group- on Oahu, where the home office of Alex- Hawaii—occupies nearly as much land as ander & Baldwin is housed in the Stan- does the State of Connecticut, and boasts genwald building in Honolulu, there is an unbroken sugar-cane area more than the famous Pali or precipice which is a hundred miles long. It is the home of visited by every tourist, and is the pride the two highest island mountain peaks of the Hawaiians themselves. in the world. The going and coming of people in The Hawaiian Islands lie 2,100 miles Hawaii is regulated by the truly remark- southwest of San Francisco, and have able monthly calendar in red, white and a population of 200,000, the very living blue, issued by the firm of Alexander &. of whom depends upon the growing of Baldwin, sugar factors and insurance sugar cane, the islands shipping over agents. This large calendar, it is safe 500,000 tons of raw sugar to America to say, hangs in every business office annually, thus creating and supporting the in the islands, and in many on the coast. two largest American .steamship com- It shows each day just what steamer is panies. Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

PULI NOM. HONOLULU NORMAL. SCHOOL tAlt tilLE

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MAUI Axea th e fclu`,e Length 48Kiesi Breadth 3o files Highest Elevation iooSA Feat argest Extinct Crotar it thoWorld opalation over 45.000 Dibtance from Honolulu 74 I' lik es Eigyen Sager Plantotiarts

top for 150'1 1 G 41 '2. Tr.,22S

The Island of Maui with its sister island, Lanai, is about the size of the State of Rhode Island.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chili, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil. The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines.

Where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for as well as the Power for Factories. Around the Pacific

American-Hawaiian S. S. Co. Steamers, plying between New York and via the Panama Canal and San Francisco. Approximate time in transit, 38 days.

TO SOUTH AUSTRALIA. Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on King William Street, Adelaide, and the From San Francisco, Vancouver and government has printed many illustrated from Honolulu there are two lines of fast books and pamphlets describing the scenic steamships to Sydney, Australia. and industrial resources of the state. A From Syney to Adelaide, South Aus- postal card or letter to the Intelligence and tralia, there is a direct line of railway on Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will secure the which concession fares are granted tourists books and information you may desire. arriving from overseas, and no visitor to the Australian Commonwealth can afford ON TO JAPAN. to neglect visiting the southern central state The Nippon Yusen Kaisha, or Japan of Australia ; for South Australia is the Mail Steamship Co. with its fleet of 94 State of superb climate and unrivalled re- vessels, and tonnage of 450,000 maintains a sources. Adelaide, the 'Garden City of the service from Yokohama via Japanese, Chi- South,' is the capital, and there is a Govern- nese, Philippine and Australian ports to ment Intelligence and Tourist Bureau Sydney and Melbourne, as well as a where the tourist, investor, or settler is European service, fortnightly from Yoko- given accurate information, guaranteed by hama to London and Antwerp, and from the government, and free to all. From Yokohama (starting at Hongkong) to Vic- Adelaide this Bureau conducts rail, river toria, B. C., and Seattle, Wash. Be- and motor excursions to almost every part sides these main services the Nippon Yu- of the state. Tourists are sent or conducted sen Kaisha extends its coastal service to through the magnificent mountain and all of the principal ports in Japan, pastoral scenery of South Australia. The Korea and China, etc., thus making it government makes travel easy by a system the ideal shippers' service from Aus- of coupon tickets and facilities for caring tralia. America and Europe, as well as for the comfort of the tourist. Excursions the most convenient around the Pacific are arranged to the holiday resorts; indi- and around the world service for the viduals or parties are made familiar with tourist or merchant. There are branch the industrial resources, and the American offices of the Nippon Yusen Kaisha at as well as the Britisher is made welcome if all the principal ports of the world. The he cares to make South Australia his home. head office is at Tokyo, Japan, and its The South Australian Intelligence and telegraphic address Morioka. Tokyo. Wonderful New Zealand

Native New Zealanders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's of the tourist, for whom she has also wonderland. There is no other place in built splendid roads and wonderful the world that offers such an aggrega- mountain tracks. New Zealand is tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The splendidly served by the Government West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are Railways, which sell the tourist for a in every way more magnificent and awe- very low rate a ticket that entitles him inspiring than are the fiords of Norway. to travel on any of the railways for from Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic one to two months. In the lifetime of panorama of unrivalled beauty from end a single man, (Sir James Mills of Dune- to end. Its hot springs and geysers in din, New Zealand,) a New Zealand the Rotorua district on the North Island steamship company has been built up have no equal anywhere. In this dis- that is today the fourth largest steam- trict the native Maoris still keep up ship company under the British flag, and their ancient dances or haka haka, and larger than any steamship company here may be seen the wonderfully carved owned in America with her 100,000,000 houses of the aboriginal New Zealand- million population, or in Japan with her ers. There are no more beautiful lakes 50,000,000 population. New Zealand is anywhere in the world than are the Cold a land of wonders, and may be reached Lakes of the South Island, nestling as from America by the Union Steamship they do among mountains that rise sheer Co. boats from Vancouver, San Fran- ten thousand feet. Among these moun- cisco or Honolulu. The Oceanic Steam- tains are some of the largest and most scenic glaciers in the world. In these ship Co. also transfers passengers from Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Sydney. The Government Tourist twelve thousand feet high. On its Bureau has commodious offices in Auck- slopes the Government has built a hotel land and Wellington as well as the other to which there is a motor car service. larger cities of New Zealand. Direct in- New Zealand was the first country to formation and pamphlets may be secured perfect the government tourist bureau. by writing to the New Zealand Govern- She has built hotels and rest houses ment TouriEt Bureau, Wellington, New throughout the Dominion for the benefit Zealand. New South Wales I

Circular Quay, Sydney.

Physical configuration and a wide The wonderful system of limestone range of climate give the State of New caverns at Jenolan is a marvelous fairy- South Wales its wonderful diversity of land of stalactitic and stalagmitic forma- scenery, its abundance of magnificent tions, which must forever remain the resorts by ocean, harbor, mountain, val- despair of the painter, the photographer ley, plain, lake, river and cave. It is this and the writer. The world has no more bewildering array of scenic attractions, marvelous or beautiful system of caves and the peculiar strangeness of the forms than these at Jenolan, which tourists of its animal and vegetable life, which from everywhere have marked as their make New South Wales one of the most own. The famous Jenolan series is sup- interesting countries in the world, and plemented and rivalled by the extensive one which an up-to-date. well-traveled systems at Wombeyan and Yarrangobil- tourist must see. ly, a little further away from Sydney. In the south, among the Australian The climate of the State ranges from Alps, lies the unique Kosciusko Range, the arctic snows of Mt. Kosciusko to the which contains the highest peak in the sub-tropical glow of the Northern Riv- Continent, and is said to be the oldest ers, and withal is one of the most equable land surface on the globe. The Hotel in the world. Its eastern shore is washed Kosciusko, a modern spa, replete with by the crested rollers of the wide Pacific and stretches by meadow, tableland and every convenience, golf links and tennis mountain to the rich, dry plains beneath courts,—stands at an altitude of 6000 feet. In Summer, the mountaineer and the rim of the setting sun. trout fisherman stays here to enjoy the Westward of Sydney, the Blue Moun- majestic scenery at the summit, or fill his tains attain an altitude of 3000 feet at a bag with fish caught in a handy stream, distance of 60 miles. The scenery is of and in Winter the ski-runner, tobogganer rare magnificence. Through countless and ice-skater revel in the Alpine car- centuries, the rivers have carved stupen- nivals conducted on the glistening snow- dous gorges, comparable only to the fields. famous Colorado canyons. The eucalyp- The Government Tourist Bureau, a tus covered slopes give off health-giving splendidly equipped Institution at Challis odours, and graceful waterfalls, gaping House, Sydney, readily dispenses infor- valleys, fern-clad recesses and inspiring mation, maps, pamphlets and booklets, to panoramas impress themselves on the all inquirers in connection with the tour- memory of the mountain visitor. ist resorts of the State. For the Tourist and Visitor

The Alexander-Young Hotel (under same management as the Moana and Hawaiian.)

CRATER HOTEL, Volcano Hawaii, A. T. concern is constantly adding new features Short, Proprietor. See Wells Fargo Ex- and new stock. The business man will press Co., Paradise Tours, Inter-Island find his every need in the office is supplied and S. S. Co., Honolulu for special in- by the Hawaiian News Co. merely on a clusive excursion rates. call over the phone, and this is true also THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- of the fashionable society leader, whether posite the Alexander Young, is the her needs are for a bridge party, a dance, one reasonably priced tourist restaurant. or just plain stationery. The exhibit rooms Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian of the Hawaiian News Co. are interesting. singers and players, and here at every The von Hamm Young Co., Importers, hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Machinery Merchants and leading auto- prices the delicacies of the season. mobile dealers, have their offices and store THE BLAISDELL. The newest down town in the Alexander Young Building, at the hotel, occupying a block on Fort Street. corner of King and Bishop Streets, and Splendid rooms from $1.00 a day and $20 their magnificent automobile salesroom and a month up. Phone 1267. garage just in the rear, facing on Alakea Honolulu is so healthy that people don't street. Here one may find almost any- usually die there, but when they do they thing. Phone No. 4901. phone in advance to Henry H. Williams, "Maile" Australian butter from the 1146 Fort street, phone number 1408, Metropolitan Meat Market on King and he arranges the after details. If you Street, stands at the head for flavor and are a tourist and wish to be interred in keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is your own plot on the mainland, Williams here you also get the tender meats and will embalm you; or he will arrange all fresh vegetables of which an abundant details for interment in Honolulu. Don't supply is always on hand. Heilbron leave the Paradise of the Pacific for any Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- other, but if you must, let your friends derful business until now the Metropolitan talk it over with Williams. Meat Market is the central and popular The largest of the very fashionable market place in Honolulu. Phone 3445. shops in the Alexander Young Building, Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, occupying the very central portion, is that Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. of the Hawaiian News Co. Here the Its auto wagons deliver each morning fresh ultra-fashionable stationery of the latest from the oven, the delicious baker's bread design is kept in stock. Every kind of and rolls consumed in Honolulu, while all paper, wholesale or retail, is supplied, as the grocery stores carry the Love Bakery well as printers' and binders' supplies. crisp fresh crackers and biscuits that come There are musical instruments of every from the oven daily. Love's Bakery has kind in stock, even to organs and pianos, the most complete and up to date machin- and the Angelus Player Piano and this ery and equipment in the territory. B. F. Ehlers & Co., the leading woman's store in Honolulu, on Fort Street, between King and Hotel Streets.

E. 0. Hall & Son, corner Fort and King Streets.

A part of the interior of H. F. Wichman & Co.,—jewelers, which occupies nearly half of the block between King and Fort Sts. The Power Factory, where the Lighting and Cooking in the Honolulu Home is arranged for.

ELECTRICITY IN HONOLULU. horsepower, with another two hundred and fifty horsepower to the Federal Wireless In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Station, fifteen miles distant, besides cur- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts per rent for lighting all private residences in month per lamp, and six cents thereafter. Honolulu, as well as for operating its own From the Hawaiian Electric Company extensive ice plant. A line is now being plant, power is furnished to the pineapple built to furnish light and power to the canneries (the largest canneries in the great army post at Schofield Barracks, world) to the extent of seven hundred twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

Entrance to Lewers & Cooks' large establishment. Lumber, hardware, etc. Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond 6z Co., on King St. Phone 4937.

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Kekaulike Streets is one of Honolulu's Streets, is the actual center of life and leading enterprises, doing a flourishing activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- lumber and mill business. section of the tram lines, the shoppers, Hawaii is the Big Island. Hilo is the business men, and tourists await their cars, chief port, and from Hilo excursions are chatting at the open soda fountain, that is made up to all the points of interest. The the feature of Chambers Drug Store. Here Hilo Board of Trade has recently taken up the tourist and stranger is advised as tc, the matter of home promotion work and is the sights of the city, and supplied with developing the wonderful scenic surround- any perfumes, candies or drugs he may ings of Hilo. In this line of work the Hilo need during his stay. Chambers Drug Board of Trade has the hearty co-operation Store is one of the institutions of Hono- of the Hilo Railway. This Railway has lulu. Phone No. 1291. recently extended its rails thirty-two miles Mr. Chu Gem, Honolulu's most re- along the precipitous coasts of Lapauhoehoe snected Chinese business man, is a director and beyond. This thirty-two mile rail trip of the Home Insurance Co., and head of is one of the scenic trips of the world. The the firm of Quong Sam Kee Co., at the Hilo Railway also extends in the opposite corner of King and Maunakea St., which direction to the hot springs of Puna, and a supplies the local dealers of the territory branch with the Auto Service takes the with drugs and general merchandise. tourist from the steamer wharf to the edge Whatever you do, do not fail to visit of the ever active Kilauea. the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King Street. Early morning is the best time for The leading music store in Hawaii is this, when all the multi-colored fish of on King and Fort Sts.—The Bergstrom Hawaiian waters are presented to view Music Co. No home is complete in Hono- and every nationality of the islands is on lulu without a ukulele, a piano and a Victor parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is ti. talking machine. The Bergstrom Music leading spirit and founder of the Oahu Company, with its big store on Fort Street, Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- will provide you with these—a Chickering, tion of which the city is proud. a Weber, a Kroeger for your mansion, or a A monument to the pluck and energy of tiny upright Boudoir for your cottage; and Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the if you are a transient it will rent you a City Mill Co. of which he is treasurer piano. The Bergstrom Music Company, and manager. This plant at Queen and phone 2331. The House and Home

LIGHTING THE HOUSE. BUILDING THE HOME. There are 4100 consumers of gas in The Pacific Engineering Co., with spac- Honolulu, and the price of gas in that ious offices in the Yokohama Specie Bank city, $1.00 to $1.50 a thousand feet, ac- Building, are engineers and constructors cording to amount consumed, is a lower of buildings of every kind, from the smallest price than that charged for gas by any private residence to the largest and most other American city having not more than imposing blocks. Being composed of some 4100 consumers. of the most prominent men in the islands, When the Honolulu Gas Company first it is not surprising that it has secured began business the charge for gas was large and important contracts, including $2.50 a thousand feet, but as more con- the construction of the new Y.M.C.A. sumers were secured the price was lower- The City's great furniture store, that or ed, and will be lowered considerably as J. Hopp & Co., occupies a large portion of the people of the city become educated to the Lewers & Cooke Block on King St. the fact that gas is the most economical Here the latest styles in home and office fuel for cooking, as well as for lighting, furniture arriving constantly from San that is to be had in the city of Honolulu. Francisco are displayed on several spacious The gas mains of Honolulu are con- floors. Phone No. 2111. stantly being extended to the outlying dis- tricts. The brightest and cheapest street With the wood that is used for building lighting in the city is that secured from in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen gas in connection with the latest inven- Street, Phone 2105, have for generations tions in incandescent hoods, these giant supplied the people of Honolulu and those hoods made incandescent by a small jet of on the other islands ; also their buildings and paints. Their office is on Queen St., gas giving a marvelous light that seems as near the Inter-Island S. N. Co. Building, bright as day. The smaller hoods are and their lumber yards extend right back used in the office and in the home, greatly to the harbor front, where every kind of reducing the gas bills of consumers. hard and soft wood grown on the coast is The Honolulu Gas Co., Ltd., has its landed by the schooners that ply from spacious show rooms and offices at the Puget Sound. corner of Beretania and Alakea Streets, and here the public is invited to meet with Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen the staff of experts in gas lighting and Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed cooking devices. They know how to aid rock used in the construction of the mod- in saving on the gas bill to an extent that ern building in Hawaii. They also main- will induce all to use gas, both in the tain their own stables and drays. Draying kitchen and in the parlor. in Honolulu is an important business, and Every new gas consumer aids in lower- Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, ing the price of gas to all. They gladly and keep drays of every size, sort and de- send men to give estimates for the use of scription for the use of those who require gas in the home. Write them or phone them. They also conduct a rock crusher 3424. and supply wood and coal.

The Banks of Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the U. S. Government.

The Banking House of Bishop & Co. was established August 17, 1858, and has oc- cupied its premises on the corner of Mer- chant & Kaahumanu Streets, since 1877. The operations of this Bank began with the encouragement of the whaling business, then the leading industry of the islands, and the institution has ever been closely identi- fied with the industrial and commercial progress of the Islands. The partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M.Damon, Mr. Allen W. T. Bottomley and J. L. Cock- burn. On June 30, 1915 the deposits with this bank amounted to $7,555,975.03. Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial in- stitution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues cable transfers, and transacts a general banking business. The entrance to the Bank of Hawaii, The best thing on ice in Honolulu is soda the central bank of Honolulu, with a water. The Consolidated Soda Water capital, surplus and undivided profits Works Co., Ltd., 601 Fort Street, are the amounting to nearly a million and a half, largest in the Territory. Aerated waters or more than the total of any other bank cost from 35 cents a dozen bottles up. The in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own Consolidated Co. are agents for Hires Root magnificent building at the busiest busi- Beer and put up a Kola Mint aerated water ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and that is delicious, besides a score of other Fort streets; has a savings department and flavors. Phone 2171 for a case, or try a was organized in 1897. bottle at any store. Financial Hawaii

A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated The Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized doubling this capital. On June 30th, 1913, in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, the Capital of the Company was $200,- now has $140,000 in cash capital and earn- 000; Surplus $10,000, and Undivided ed surplus, and gross assets of $390,000. Profits $22,573.77. It conducts a trust The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- company business in all its various lines ganized and managed by the same people, with offices in the Stangenwald Building, has assets in excess of $200,000. The Merchant St., adjoining Bank of Hawaii. splendid growth of these concerns has been The Mutual Telephone Co. works in due to careful and conservative manage- close accord with the Marconi Wireless, ment and to the unbounded confidence re- and controls the wireless service between posed in them by the people whom they the Hawaiian Islands, as well as the tele- serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex- phone service throughout Hawaii. For a ecutor and Trustee under Wills, Adminis- dollar and a half a night letter of twenty- trator and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary five words may be sent to any part of the Agent, and as Attorney and Agent for non- territory. Honolulu was the first city in residents and others needing such service. the world to install a house to house tele- Its offices are centers of activity in real phone system, and Hawaii the first country estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- to commercially install wireless telegraphy. cles. The Company is a member of the Next to the Marconi Wireless on Fort Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Street is the Office Supply Co., the home of the Remington Typewriter in Hawaii, The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., and the Globe-Wernicke filing and book is the most recently incorporated Trust cases. Every kind of office furniture is Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders kept in stock by the Office Supply Co. as are closely identified with the largest business interests in the Territory. Its well as a complete line of office stationery. directors and officers are men of ability. There is a repair shop for typewriters, and integrity and high standing in the com- every necessary article that the man of munity. The Company was incorporated business might need. Phone 3843.

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Company occupies the ground floor of the Campbell block on Fort St., and partly on Merchant St. This is the business center of the city ; here stocks and bonds are exchanged, insurance and real estate handled. Here is the home of the Kaimuki Land Company, and safety vaults. • THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA

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Lake Marion and Du Cane Mountains, Tasmania.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. The picturesque Oahu Railway. There are daily trains from Honotub, to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $10 covers all expenses of this two-day trip.

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