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Date: Wednesday, October 05, 2011 Location: WASHINGTON, OC 'atbt Ulasbtngton ~ost Circulation (DMA): 545,345 (8) Type (Frequency): Newspaper (D) Page: E5 Keyword: Cahors

JwiNEl Higher learning, with an accent on France

BY JASON WILSON (also used for Armagnac) or Gros grapes all day in the vineyard." Negrette. Mauzac. Fer Manseng (a floral, fruity white She meant that as a good thing, Servadou. Gros Manseng. Loin you'll find only in Gascony) or and I had to agree with her. de L'Oeil: Those are the names of even international grapes such What's most amazing is the grapes used to produce the wines as chardonnay. Most wine stores priee: Most every Madiran I've I've been drinking for the past now carry an Ugni Blanc blend seen in U.S. liquor stores retails fewweeks. from Gascony that's ridiculously for under $15. Fronton. Madiran. Marcillac. cheap (almost always well under At the other end of the Gaillac: Those are the French $10) and usually crisp and zingy spectrum are the light-bodied, designations of origin where enough to serve chilled on a hot blood-purple wines from th ose wines come from. afternoon. Marcillac, made with the Ah, wine. Once I think I have But there is much more to extremely obscure grape Fer you all figured out, have all the southwestern French wines than Servadou. Good Marcillac shares grapes sorted in my mind, all zippy whites. In Gaillac, they certain green, spicy, dried-herb th ose foreign pronunciations blend the Mauzac grape, with its characteristics with cabernet committed to memory and all baked-apple and fleshy peach franc, particularly those from the geographical hairsplitting notes, with sauvignon blanc or Chinon. mapped out, you throw chenin blanc or other local The Marcillacs I have opened something new at me. varieties to create a distinct, are sorne of the most food Something I've never tasted aromatic full-bodied white. friendly wines I've tasted in a before that makes me realize, Gaillac can be inconsistent, but while. A couple of friends who once again, that I will never, ever when it's good, it's very good, like were tasting with me kept know everything about you. the Domaine des Terrisses listed returning to the Domaine du Recently, that something new in my accompanying Cros, and the bottle was killed has been wines from recommendations. almost immediately: always the southwestern France. Even Perhaps the area's best-known most reliable test of a wine's though it's France's fourth wines are big reds from~ drinkability. largest appellation in terms of Long before the Mal bec grape But perhaps my favorites from volume, we see very little of the gained popularity in Argentina, southwestern France are the wine from this region in the it flourished in this part of Negrette-based wines from United States. That's a shame, France, and the region has been Fronton. Negrette is a dark red because most ofwhat I've been trying for several years to gain a wine that's often blended with drinking has offered tremendous foothold in the market with its cabernet franc or cabernet value. "Cahors- The original Malbec!" sauvignon, full ofberries and I was introduced to these campaign. Although the priee of flowers, but with unique spice wines last fall when I visited these wines is attractive, I still and a backbone that you don't rustic Gascony - where I was prefer Mal bec from Argentina. usually find in rosé. I especially stuffed with duck confit and foie Instead, I look to other reds enjoyed the rosé from Chateau gras - to write about Armagnac. from southwest France. In Bellevue la Foret, which is Much of the viticulture in this particular, I've very much blended with gamay and syrah. I region is focused on enjoyed what I've tasted from drank a lot of great rosés over the brandymaking, with much of the Madiran, where the Thnnat summer, and this was one of the vineyard land given over to Ugni grape is king. The only other best, and priced most attractively Blanc. Until recently, Ugni Blanc place I've seen Tannat widely at $10. (known as Trebbiano in Italy) planted is Uruguay. Consequently, I had to add was dismissed as producing a Madiran wines are muscular, Fronton and Negrette- along neutral, high-acid and earthy, meaty, tannic; they feel with the other Gascon grapes - characterless wine better left to perfect for when the weather to the ever-crowded space in my be distilled into Armagnac. turns cold; to me, there's a even a head where wine information is That has changed in recent hint of autumn leaves in the stored. Fer Servadou and Gros years. A number of producers are nase. A friend of mine described Manseng are now as old-hat to making wines by blending Ugni one of the Madirans we tasted as me as chardonnay and meriot. Blanc grapes with more aromatic "smelling like a beautiful woman Maybe l'rn getting doser to varieties such as Colombard who's been hard at work picking having this wine thing all figured Page î of 2

Account: 5035AD (898) DC-30 For reprints or rights, posters and plaques, please visit www.WashingtonPostReprints.com or cali (212) 221-9595 Date: Wednesday , October 05, 2011 Location: WASHINGTON, OC ~be Ulasbtngton ~ost Circulation (DMA): 545,345 (8) Type (Frequency): Newspaper (D) Page: E5 Keyword: Cahors

out. Which means, 1 guess, that something will come along soon Recommendations enough to remind me otherwise. Priees are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verity availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Dave Mclntyre will return next week. Wilson is the author of "Boozehound: ln Gascon y, you'll fi nd grapes you've probably never tasted or even heard of. On the Trail ofthe Rare, the Obscure, But you'll a Iso fi nd some unbelievable values, mostly under $15. and the Overrated in Spirits" (Ten -J.W. Speed, 2010). He can be reached at [email protected]. Domaine du Ta riquet Classic Ugni Blanc-Colombard 2010 Gascony, France, $8 lt's bright, crisp, zippy; an amazingly great value. A perfect aperitifforthose last warm days ofthe year. Robert Kacher Selections: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Di xie Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Whole Foods Market locations, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor. Available in Maryland at State Li ne Liqu ors in Elkton, Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore.

Domaine des Terrisses Blanc 2010 Gaillac, France, $13 The predominant grape in this rich, dry white ble nd is the intensely aromatic Mauzac. lt's floral with a touch of nuttiness, similar to a good Soave Classico. Wine Traditions: Available in District at Cork Market, P&C Market. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Out of Sight Wines in Vien na, Rick's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, the Wine Cabinet in Reston, the Winery in Alexa nd ria.

Chateau Bellevue La Foret Rosé 2010 Fronton, France, $10 The strange, dark Negrette grape (blended with a little gamay and syrah) gives this a lot more structure and liveliness in the mouth th an most rosés have. lt's more complexas weil, with good acidity, a touch of pepper and herbs. Wine Traditions: Available in the Di strict at Cork Market, Whole Foods P Street. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Whole Foods Market in Arlington , Chain Bridge Cellars in Mclean, Oakton Wine Shop in Oakton, Rick's Wine & Gourmet and Unwined in Alexandria. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg.

Domaine du Cros Lo Sang del Pais 2010 Marcillac, France, $12 From the obscure Fer Servadou grape, this is totally purple, light-bodied, low in alcohol (12.5 percent) and so drinkable. Fresh, spicy, with a touch of smokiness a nd dried herbs, it's somewhat similar to cabernet franc, yet still its own unique flavor. Wine Trad itions Ltd. : Available in the District at DeVi nos, D'Vines. Avai lable in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Ri ck's Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria, Out of Sight Win es in Vien na, the Vineyard in Mclean.

Domaine du Moulie 2006 Madiran, France, $12 ln the Madiran region, the predominant grape is tan nat; this wine is a meaty, earthy, tan nic, full-bodied example ofthe grape's style. On the nose, it's like autumn leaves and cedar, with big, rich fruit on the tongue and long, pleasant finish. Available in Virginia at Total Wine locations in Alexa nd ria, Fairfa x, Fredericksburg, Manassas, Mc l ean .

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