the zartis guide to living in DUBLIN
If you're relocating to Dublin, we've created a guide just for you.
1 HELLO! You’ve made it to Ireland! By now you’re probably adjusting to the Irish weather, the left-hand trafc and the Irish accent? Great!
We’re here to help you on your way.
2 From your own Irish “start-up”, we’ll lead you through our tips on finding your dream flat, how to best get around the island, and how to bank those all-important pay cheques.
But we know your time in Ireland isn’t all about the money, rent deposits and income tax. So we’ve also included the very best of Ireland’s down-time activities, our favourite hang-outs and secret hideaways.
From finding the best pint of Guinness in Dublin City, joining a gym and eating out, consider this your go-to guide for the Fair City.
Welcome to Dublin. Your journey starts here…
ARRIVAL 4
MAP OF DUBLIN 6
GETTING AROUND 10
SETTLING IN 14
RENTAL 24
BANKING & CERTS 30
CULTURE SHOCK 36
DUBLIN DOWNTIME 40
WEB GUIDE 48
3 ARRIVAL
4 You’ve arrived at Dublin Airport!
Welcome to Dublin Airport, Ireland’s largest and Europe’s tenth busiest airport. Depending on your airline, you will arrive at either Terminal 1 e.g. Ryanair flights, or Terminal 2 e.g. Aer Lingus flights.
Both terminals are in fact side by side and are connected with a walkway which is a three minute transfer.
Once you’ve met your first Irish person (at passport control) and grabbed your luggage from the baggage carousel, you’ll enter the Terminal 1 or Ter- minal 2 arrivals hall. This is a good chance to use Dublin Airport’s free Wi-Fi, hit the ATM or Bureau de Change to get some Euros or grab your first Irish sandwich at one of the convenience stores!
N.B. Don’t forget to turn of 'roaming' on your mobile phone, to stop you amassing some nasty mobile operator charges!
5 The Dublin Area
6 City Centre
7 Ground Transportation from the Airport
Dublin Airport is a pretty calm experience. In the arrival halls of both terminals you’ll see ground transportation signs for your onward journey to Dublin city centre.
You have two simple options:
Taxi An ofcial taxi rank sits outside the forecourt of both terminals. The journey takes about 30 minutes and typically costs €35 (taxis have a metre system). Tipping is not necessary.
Bus or Coach There are a number of bus and coach services serving Dublin Airport and the city. Two of these include the Dublin Bus Airlink 747 (€6 average) or the Aircoach (€7 average). Both have bus stops outside the terminals. If arriving from Terminal 2, you simply walk straight across the sky-walk over the road and the lift/escalator down to the bus stops on the left.
The journey to Dublin city centre takes about 30 minutes and both services also ofer free wifi. Perhaps now’s your time to take your first camera phone pic of Ireland or change your social network profile to “lives in Dublin”!
8 First impressions…
You may only be in Ireland about an hour by now, but a few cultural diferences may have caught your eye!
Firstly, Ireland (like the U.K., Australia and South Africa) drives on the left-hand side so always take extra care when crossing roads. Secondly, you’ll also notice that all ofcial signs in Ireland (motorways, street names etc.) are in both English and Irish – the country’s na- tional language.
Stephen's Green Shopping Centre, at the top of Grafton street.
9 GETTING AROUND
10 Orientation
Most visitors arriving in Dublin city centre tend to disembark their bus at O’Connell Street, (Dublin’s main avenue and site of the Spire of Dublin), or alternatively cross the River Lifey south to College Green (home to Trinity College Dublin). Ask the bus driver to recommend the best bus stop for you.
Now in the middle of downtown Dublin, you may find it most practical to take a taxi to your final destination (point-to-point taxi trips in Dublin tend to cost about €10).
Here are your transport options!
Bus Where to buy a ticket: On board the bus, at a newsagents (Spar, Londis, Centra etc).
The capital is served by Dublin Bus, which operates a labyrinth of 200 routes across the city and suburbs. To buy your ticket, simply tell the bus-driver your destination eg. “Trinity, please” and he will charge you accordingly. The bus- driver does not announce the names of the bus-stops, so it’s a good idea to check your route (or count the stops) beforehand!
N.B. Dublin Bus only accepts coins (not notes) and does not give change in cash. Change is given in a paper receipt that you can later exchange for cash at Dublin Bus Ofce at 59 Upper O’Connell Street.
Tram Where to buy a ticket: On the platform.
The Luas (meaning ‘speed’) is Dublin’s excellent tram service. Visit luas.ie. The
11 two lines (Red, mostly Northside and Green, mostly Southside) do not connect. You do not need to frank (stamp) your ticket, however you will be amply fined for travelling without a ticket.
Light Rail Where to buy your ticket: Platform or DART station.
The DART is Dublin’s suburban rail service which whizzes up and down Dublin’s coastal suburbs from the city centre. It is fast, efcient and can be a great way to beat rush-hour trafc. Visit irishrail.ie. Fares start from about €2.70 to €3.70 for a single trip.
Bike How to get your ticket and bike: At the bike station or subscribe online.
Dublin’s recent bike sharing scheme is one of the city’s great transport suc- cesses. The eco-friendly way of getting from A-B allows you to borrow a bike from one of the city’s 44 bike stations and return it to the bike station nearest to your destination. It’s how we get around in Dublin and we love it! Visit dublinbikes.ie.
Dublin by numbers
Split by the River Lifey, Dublin is divided into 24 postal zones, which may initially seem a little confusing. Just remember however, that all the odd numbers (1,3,5…) lie on the Northside while the even numbers (2,4,6) are on the Southside. There is one exception: Phoenix Park, home to President, lies north of the Lifey, but is in fact Dublin 8.
12 Dublin at a glance
By far Ireland’s largest city, the story of Dublin is home to 1,200,000 characters and is one of the youngest, friendliest and most vibrant cities in Europe. When not acting as a multicultural tech-capital however, Dublin has an urban village feel – you’ll soon find it hard to walk down Grafton Street without seeing a familiar face.
Enjoying the city isn’t about chasing attractions; it’s simply about soaking in the vibe. Whether that means enjoying a seafood lunch in the fishing village of Howth, or catching an innovative art exhibition in trendy Temple Bar, Dublin is simply waiting to share a pint with you. Or a cup of tea….
A Luas tram – the most satisfying way of getting around the Dublin area.
13 SETTLING IN
14 Temporary Accommodation
If you don’t have an apartment pre-organized with your employer, you may wish to find some short-term accommodation in the city before you find your own flat. There are a number of fantastic options in Dublin.
Dublin has a growing number of trendy yet afordable designer hostels. Our top picks include Generator Hostel in Smithfield which has dormitory beds and private rooms or Barnacles hostel in Temple Bar.
If you fancy something with a little more privacy, Ariel House in Lansdowne Road, Dublin 4 is an elegant B&B with rooms from €89 per room.
After you’ve checked into your new accommodation, you’ve unpacked your raincoat, and you’ve charged your smartphone, then what? Check out our Dublin social guide later in the guide to say how you can best enjoy your Dublin days!
15 First Week Checklist
Leap Card Our transport tip? Buy a Leap Card (similar to the London Oyster card) which allows you to use all of Dublin’s bus, DART and Luas services with one single card. You can buy one in most newsagents (eg. Spar, Easons) and you’ll also pocket a saving of about 15% per journey. You can then ‘top-up’ your card at various charge-points across the city.
Irish Mobile Hopefully you’ll have unlocked your own mobile phone before you arrived in Ireland - but if not, no panic. The main phone providers are Vodafone, Three, and Meteor, all of which seem to have shops located on every street across the city centre.
You’ve two options: “Pay as You go” where you can buy a phone and buy “top up vouchers” at most stores. Prices range from €50 for a generic smart- phone, to €700 for an 16GB iPhone!
Alternatively, go for a bill-pay phone. With bill-pay, your phone is often free but you must commit to a contract from about €30 per month. This can include a certain amount of domestic calls, international minutes and in- ternet data. Mobile Phone contracts in Ireland typically last from 18 to 24 months.
Don’t forget to bring your bank details, photo-id and proof of address to your phone provider.
Health Insurance There are several health care options available, should something go wrong health wise. Be prepared for every eventuality by ensuring that you have the
16 The Powerscourt Centre, with its relaxed atmosphere, is a good place to meet with friends. Of Grafton Street.
right level of cover if it is necessary. Free cover is available depending on your nationality.
European Union citizens living in Ireland are automatically entitled to free public health care. However, private insurance (approximately €500+ a year) is advised since waiting lists for those without insurance can sometimes delay treatment. The main private health care providers in Ireland are VHI, Aviva and Laya.
Visitors from EU countries are also entitled to free urgent medical care so long as they present their European Health Insurance Card (EHIC).
English Language Courses From Beginners English to Business English, you may want to use your first week or two in Dublin to improve your language skills. The city is a very popu- lar destination for English language learning and as a result there are many schools to choose from.
Dublin City University Language School have courses from €225 per week,
17 while International House have courses from €240.
Fancy something from home? Livemocha.com is the world’s largest online language community and ofers a lot of free interactive language classes to get you started.
Don’t forget, however, that even without taking a course you’ll find your English will quickly improve in Ireland – we’re a social bunch, who like to chat. You may even acquire a Dublin accent sooner than you think!
Shopping
Dublin takes shopping to an almost Japanese-level of street mania. Stand at trafc light at O’Connell Bridge at within seconds, you’ll be surrounded by a swarm of shoppers all laden down with their latest deals from Pennys or Zara. Unlike much of continental Europe, you’ll even find malls and streets here packed with bargain hunters and window shoppers seven days a week. It’s almost shopping 24/7.
Tesco, Dunnes Stores and Superquinn and M&S are the main supermarket chains in Dublin but Aldi is our fastest growing chain, who along with Lidl, have stores mushrooming across Ireland.
For a more traditional grocery run, you can find really good fruit and veg- gie value from the traditional traders at Moore Street, while if you fancy some gourmet treats, Fallon & Byrne on Exchequer Street is one of the city’s most happening épiceries. Also save some room in your basket for Dublin’s farmers’ markets such as the one on Harcourt Street which takes place every Thursday morning. Visit irishfarmersmarkets.ie.
Dublin’s main shopping areas surround O’Connell, Henry Streets on the North-
18 side, Grafton Street on the Southside. Temple Bar’s cobbled streets are a maze of book stores, cafés and vintage boutiques, while Dundrum Town Centre with 160 stores is the largest shopping centre on the island (green Luas).
Safety & Annoyances
Dublin is one of the Top 20 safest cities in world, ranked with the likes of Vienna, Toronto and Wellington (source: mercer.com).
Although it is a cliché, just like any other large city, precautions should be taken.
Step one: Dublin has a beautiful medieval old city which also means it has many dark alleys and lanes. Avoid taking short-cuts in Dublin at night and stay to well-lit areas.
Step two: Pick-pockets and muggings are rare in Dublin but take caution around busy areas like Temple Bar, where people are walking slower or are congregated by buskers and street performers.
Step three: When using public transport at night stick to the busier carriages of the DART and Luas services and the lower deck of Dublin buses.
Step four: Drunk and disorderly behaviour is perhaps Dublin’s most common annoyance. Take care around the city after bars and clubs close and thou- sands of people emerge on the streets.
Step five: Begging is an unfortunate reality of daily life in Dublin. A simple “sorry” will usually satisfy most beggars, but if you’re feeling charitable we suggest a donation to a local homeless shelter.
19 Note: Electricity – 230 volts, 50Hz. Square and round three-pin plugs are standard – you can buy a converter in most electrical stores in town.
Business Hours
We Irish like to shop and you’ll find opening hours in Ireland quite a bit more flexible than many countries in Continental Europe.
Typical opening hours are Monday to Saturday: 09.00 to 18.00, with later openings on Friday and Saturday until 21.00. The hours on Sundays in Dublin are a little more limited but you’ll still find most stores open from 10.00-18.00. For all-night shopping, you’ll find some Tescos, Centras and Spars in the city centre are also open 24hrs.
Banks are typically open from 10am until 4pm though this can vary per branch. Pubs in Ireland are open until 23.30 from Sunday to Thursday and until 00.30 on Fridays and Saturdays. Nightclubs in the city typically close at 02.30. Pubs are closed on Christmas Day and Good Friday.
Public Holidays
There are a total of nine public holidays in Ireland each year. On a public holiday (or bank holiday), schools and many businesses close doors. Other services, for example, public transport still operate but often with restricted schedules.
The list of public holidays each year is as follows:
• New Year's Day (January 1st) • St. Patrick's Day (March 17th) • Easter Monday • First Monday in May, June, August • Last Monday in October • Christmas Day (December 25th) • St. Stephen's Day (December 26th)
20 Dublin in Numbers / Price Index
Cappuccino ¤2.80
Irish Times newspaper ¤2
Pint of Guinness ¤5.40
Litre of Petrol ¤1.33
Pack of 20 Cigarettes ¤10
Cinema Ticket ¤12.40
Big Mac ¤3.59
Three-course early bird menu ¤21
National Museum entrances Free
Medical
It happens! You’re away from home and suddenly sufer a cold or a bug. Don’t worry, your Dublin GP (doctor) will soon look after you. When look- ing for a GP remember that in Ireland, clinics are also called surgeries. Suf- folk Street Medical Surgery is one of the city’s most centrally located clinics where you can expect to pay €60 for a consultation.
For dental care, Smiles have a number of centrally located clinics around the city (e.g. O’Connell Street). In Dublin, expect to pay €50 for a check-up.
Pharmacies
In Ireland pharmacies (also known as chemists) ofer prescription and general medical advice services. Boots is one of the country’s most popular chains. If you need painkillers such as Paracetamol or Asprin, you can also
21 buy these in any supermarket or convenience store, however you can only buy one packet per person.
Need Passport Photos? Many pharmacies in Dublin ofer ID photos services which typically cost €7.
Emergency Services
Like all European Union countries, the emergency number for Ireland is 112 in addition to 999. Fire, Ambulance, Gardaí , Sea or Mountain Rescue. There is also an emergency SMS service to 112 for the deaf or speech impaired community.
N.B. The police service in Ireland is known as An Garda Síochána (the guard- ians of peace). A police ofcer is referred to as a Garda or a guard (Gardaí/ guards in the plural).
Embassies
Dublin is home to 53 international embassies – most of which can be found in impressive mansions around the Ballsbridge area of Dublin 4. If your coun- try does not have an embassy based in Dublin, you’ll probably find one in London, a one hour flight from Dublin. Full list of embassies.
Media
Ireland enjoys one of the highest levels of media freedom in the world (source: reporterswithoutborders.com), along with countries such as Finland and the Netherlands.
The country has four national television stations: RTÉ 1, RTÉ2, TV3 & TG4
22 (Gaeilge), with international networks such as BBC, CNN and France 24 available on most satellite systems. RTÉ Radio 1 (90FM), Dublin 98FM, Today FM (100FM) and Newstalk (106FM) are Dublin’s most popular radio stations, which combine a mix of music and Ireland’s obsession for politics and current afairs.
The Irish Independent and the Irish Times are the top newspapers while Journal.ie is one of Ireland’s most popular online sources of news.
International newspapers such as The NY Times, Die Welt and Le Monde can be bought at newsagents such as Easons.
23 RENTING
http://www.rev- enue.ie/forms/ form12a.pdf
24 Renting a Flat
Finding a new flat is perhaps the greatest worry when moving to a new country – so allow us to do some stress-busting.
Firstly, almost all flats in Ireland come furnished which tends to save us tech- types, time, money and a lot of sofa-schlepping. Rental agreements in Ire- land may be also be a lot more relaxed than you may be used to, but do be sure to always ask for a contract of your tenancy. You are usually required to give your landlord a deposit of one month’s rent before you move in and a minimum of one month’s notice should you decide to leave.
The best and most extensive area website to find a flat in Ireland is daft.ie or myhome.ie where you can do a search on “Letting” (renting) your own flat or “Sharing” with a group of people. If you’re aiming to improve your English, we suggest you find some fellow Irish people to live with. They like to chat!
Book ing deposit
In comparison to other countries, booking deposits are generally quite low. It is usu ally one month’s rent plus a month secur ity deposit. The security deposit is returned when you leave the house providing it is left in good con di tion.
Tenancy agreements
When you rent a house from a landlord, you’ll usually sign a tenancy agree- ment, also known as a lease. This is a legal binding contract between you and the landlord stating how long you will rent the house for. A lease can be for any length of time; usually it’s for 6 or 12 months. It will state how much rent you’ll need to pay and other conditions. Make sure that the contract
25 contains information on what will happen if either of you break the terms of the agreement.
What documents will I need to get a lease?
In order to get a lease, you usually need to provide a letter from your employer and/or reference from your previous landlord.
Which D?
When flat-hunting you may wonder where to start in terms of Dublin’s neighbourhoods. Well here are some of our tips. The main hi-tech village of Google et al. sits along the Docklands area (D4) where gleaming apart- ments and plush penthouses ofer panoramic views over the River Lifey.
The D2 area (Rathmines, Rathgar) ofers more canal-life, street parties and trendy café and bistro culture and is a hub for many young professionals, while the traditional red-bricked streets and new apartment complexes of D7 (Smithfield, Stoneybatter) are a becoming a popular in-spot for Dublin’s creative and artsy folk.
Make it your home
If you decide to rent an unfurnished flat, or simply want to make some chang- es, the new IKEA (ikea.com.ie) in Ballymun has quickly become Ireland’s most popular furniture shop. To get there, take the Dublin Bus number 13 or number 140 from O’Connell Street. Home delivery starts from €35.
Another popular way to shop is catalogue shopping with Argos. You can visit their website, reserve a product, and pick it up at one of their many stores across Dublin (e.g. Jervis Street).
26 If you’re looking for something a little more unique, why not try one of the city’s flea markets? Our favourite is Newmarket Square in Dublin, where you can pick up everything from a retro lamp to a vintage record player.
Should you want to buy a television in Ireland, you will also need to purchase a television license. This can be bought at any Post Ofce and costs €160 per year.
27 FINANCES & CERTS
30 Banking
In order to enjoy those pay checks of yours, you’ll also need to open your Irish bank account. The main banks in Ireland are Bank of Ireland, Allied Irish Bank and Ulster Bank, all of which ofer convenient online banking options.
To open a bank account, you’ll simply need to bring photo ID (e.g. passport or driver’s license) and proof of address to your branch.
If you’ve no Irish proof of address (phone bill etc), you can ask your employer for a letter stating that you have recently arrived in Ireland and have started work but cannot yet provide evidence of your Irish address.
Pay cheques are lodged directly into your “current” account but if you also plan on saving during your stay, check out askaboutmoney.ie which compares all the various bank savings accounts. Don’t forget that the interest your sav- ings account will be subject to a 30% tax known as D.I.R.T.
Getting your Personal Public Service (PPS) Number
Getting a PPS Number is one of the first things you will have to do when you arrive in Ireland. The sooner you apply for it, the easier the transition will be and you will be able to avoid paying more tax on your income than you should. It can seem like a complicated process but we’ve some great tips on how to make it as easy as possible.
What is a PPS Number? A Personal Public Service (PPS) number is a unique number that government bodies and others will use to identify you. You will need this number for tax purposes and will need to inform your employer as soon as you get it. Your employer will use your PPS Number for the purposes of advising Revenue and
31 Department of Social Protection of your tax deductions and Pay Related Social Insurance (PRSI) contributions. You might also need to use this num- ber when applying for access to other public services and when setting up a bank account. A PPS Number is similar to the National Insurance Number in the UK, and Social Security Number in the USA.
How do you get a PPS Number? You will need to apply for your PPS Number with the Department of Social Protection.
NB: You may need to make an appointment at one of the Intreo Centres be- fore you can apply for your PPS number. Find out more information about this on the welfare.ie PPS number page.
When you have made an appointment, you must call into one of the Intreo Centres around Dublin. Opening hours are 9:30 - 4:00 Mon, Tue, Wed, Fri, 10:30 - 4:00 Thur.
Proof of identity When you go to get a PPS Number you’ll need to show them proof of identity, usually a valid passport or National Identity Card, and evidence that you are living in Ireland.
If you haven’t found a place to live yet but want to get your PPS Num ber, your employer can make the applic a tion on your behalf.
If you are from the United Kingdom, European Union or European Economic Area you’ll need to provide a current valid passport along with another form of photographic ID such as a driving licence and evidence of your address such as a household bill or a tenancy agreement in your name.
32 It’s a good idea to bring along some supporting documents such as your birth certificate, employment details and education history as you may be asked to provide further information. It doesn’t hurt to bring more than you think might need – you won’t want to queue up there more than you have to!
Can you apply for a PPS Number before you arrive in Ireland? You can’t usually apply for a PPS Number before you arrive in Ireland. Nor- mally, you must be living in Ireland to apply.
In addition to evidence of address, a person must also show that s/he has a requirement for a PPS Number before one will be issued. Taking up em- ployment is a requirement as the employer will require a PPS Number to pay income tax and PRSI to the Revenue Commissioners.
However, looking for work is not a requirement, and an employer requiring a PPS Number as part of a job application is in breach of the legislation.
What does a PPS Number look like? Your PPS Number will have 9 characters: 7 numbers followed by two letters. It will look something like this: 1234567FA. Don’t worry if you already have an Irish PPS Number and it looks diferent, changes were made in January 2013 so that the number now has 9 characters.
Where will you see your PPS Number? You will find your PPS Number on tax documents, letters from a social welfare or tax ofce, your payslip and on cards that may be issued to you to avail of social welfare and medical payment schemes among others.
More information The Department of Social Protection website provides a list of PPS Number Registration Centres throughout Ireland. This will help you to find your local
33 centre. If you have a query regarding your PPS Number, you should contact the Client Identity Services at the Department of Social Protection.
Applying for Certification of Tax Credits
Additionally to your PPS number, you will have to apply for a Certification of Tax Credit. This will reduce the amount of taxes that are deducted from your gross income. Apply as soon as possible to avoid that emergency taxes are deducted from your income.
Emergency Taxes If you haven’t applied for a Certification of Tax Credit, your employer will have to deduct tax on an emergency basis when paying your wages or salary.
This means that they will give you a temporary tax credit for the first month of employment but tax deductions are increased progressively from the second month onwards. Emergency taxes will be paid back once you have submit- ted the Form 12a.
How to apply Download the Form 12a, fill in your details including the employers PAYE reg- istered number and your own PPS number and send it to your local Revenue ofce or call in person with the completed form.
Understanding your pay cheque
When that first pay cheque does finally arrive, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with all those terms and confusing of acronyms. We all want to know where our cash is going, n’est-ce pas? Ireland operates a P.A.Y.E. (Pay As You Earn) system. So, you’ve guessed it – the more you earn, the more tax you pay.
34 The Deloitte Tax Calcualtor will help you calculate your tax.
Pay As You Earn (PAYE): PAYE is basically income tax. Your employer takes it from your salary every time you are paid. PAYE in Ireland is 20% of incomes up to €32,800 and then 40% above this threshold.
Pay Related Social Insurance (PRSI): Is Pay-related Social Insurance. Both you and your employer pay PRSI. You build up your contributions over time and then you’ll be entitled to draw them if you need to at a later date if you be- come ill or are made redundant.
Universal Social Charge (USC): The USC is a tax that has replaced the in- come levy and the health levy. The amount you pay is calculated on a weekly or monthly basis. The full list of charges at revenue.ie.
Voluntary contributions: Voluntary Contributions are PRSI contributions that you can decide to pay if you are in the 16 – 66 age range and are no longer covered by compulsory PRSI by way of insurable employment, self-employ- ment or credited contributions.
Personal Retirement Savings Account contribution (PRSA): This is a long- term personal retirement account. You can make contributions on a regular basis directly from your salary. You can get tax-relief on these payments. Make sure that you get some professional advice before signing up to a PRSA.
Gross Pay: This is the total amount that you are being paid before all of your deductions are made.
Net Pay: This is the amount you will get after paying all of your taxes and contributions – it’s the take home pay!
Visit revenue.ie for more info.
35 CULTURE SHOCK (absorber)
36 Your day at work
You’ll probably find the work atmosphere in Ireland quite easy-going, par- ticularly for those of you coming from Germanic nations. Titles (Mr & Mrs) are never used, and dress codes tend to be quite informal (but not necessarily casual). We recommend you ask your employer what the dress code or jeans policy of your company is before you start.
A good handshake is an absolute must for a positive first impression in Ireland. Firm and friendly is our tip: practice with yourself beforehand if necessary.
Typical working days in Ireland are broken into one or two tea breaks and a main-lunch break. For lunch, Dubliners tend to grab something at a nearby bistro or enjoy some pasta leftovers from the previous night’s dinner.
You’ll find with many Irish people mixing their work and private lives more often than not. Colleagues will often socialize for drinks once a week, enjoy sports activities together and organize staf nights out together during the year. Be prepared to open up (as much as you want!) with your workmates.
Unlike other European countries, where it’s often a custom to bring in cake on the day of your birthday, this is not the case in Ireland, though you won’t find people complaining if you do…
37 Dublin Etiquette: Our 5 Tips
One: In Ireland, “How’s it going?!” generally means ‘hello’ and not ‘ how are you?’. So don’t be surprised if we don’t stick around to hear your answer.
Two: Dubliners are world champion jay-walkers (crossing streets during a red trafc light). While we’ve had years of practise, we advise you to always take care when crossing roads in our capital.
Three: The Irish like to small-talk, a lot. In the elevator, the staf kitchen or even in the changing rooms at the gym, be prepared to discuss the weather or the Champions League at any given moment during your day.
Four: Hold doors, say thank you to bus drivers, and always put up the “next please” sign for the customer behind you at the supermarket check-out. It’s good Irish Kharma!
Five: If visiting an Irish home for dinner, always bring a little token of gratitude (like a bottle or wine or a bunch of flowers from Tesco). We always say “Oh! You really shouldn’t have!” – but in truth, we rarely mean it!
How to meet us?
You’ll find Dublin a surprisingly multi-cultural city; in fact about 17% of our capital’s population is non-Irish. So where can you find us Irish? Our best tip is to flat-share with a group of Irish people where you’ll improve your English (and your Irish accent!) and hopefully broaden your Irish social horizons. Otherwise, we Irish are very sociable and are happy to chat and make friends just about anywhere. From the arts scene in Temple Bar to tech events
38 in the city; gyms, flea markets, dance or yoga classes, hiking clubs, pubs and night clubs across the city – we advise you to get chatting and don’t be afraid to make the first move. Want to take things a little further? Why not try some online Irish dating on sites like plentyofsh.com and match.com? Áth mór ort! (good luck!).
Rounds
“Whose round is it?”. That’s the phrase you’ll hear across every pub in Dublin on a Friday night. Rounds operate with one member of a group of friends or colleagues going to the bar to buy a whole order of drinks for his group. This rotates throughout the evening (regardless of the cost of individual drinks: if you like double brandys, good for you!). To be bought a round and not to of- fer to buy a round is considered poor etiquette so if you don’t want to be in a round, opt out!
Note: it’s not an exact science but usually people who drink minerals are exempt from rounds.
Tipping
Tipping in Dublin is not an obligatory custom though you will find most Dub- liners providing their waiter with tip of 10%+ if they’ve been happy with their restaurant service. Although it is rare, sometimes a ‘service charge’ is already to your added to your restaurant bill, particularly with larger groups.
Tipping bartenders or taxi-drivers is not generally expected though if you’re feeling generous (like most Irish are) you can always ‘round-up’ a figure to the nearest Euro if you wish.
39 DUBLIN DOWNTIME
Lots of activities to do in Dún Laoghaire, a seaside town south of Dublin.
40 Surf & Turf
Ok, help us out here.
In what other capital city can you catch waves in the morning and go hiking in the afternoon? (Nein Fritz, Los Angeles is not a capital city). Well welcome to your new lifestyle in Dublin!
Water Dublin has a few good beach spots; the main place you can hang ten is Dollymount, Dublin’s busiest beach, which come summertime is alive with windsurfers, kitesurfers and boogie boarders (the ferries also help with those waves).
For something away from the crowds, try Killiney beach on the Southside, where you can catch some sun next to Bono’s house. Brittas Bay just a little further south in County Wicklow is known as one of the best surf-spots on the East Coast.
Fancy some lessons? The Surfdock in Dublin ofer beginner kitesurfing and windsurfing classes from €65.
Hiking In terms of hiking, Dublin is bodyguarded by its own mountain range which adds a picturesque backdrop to the city (as well as keeping some of that rain away). The Dublin Mountain Way is a 52km trail from Shankill in the east to Tallaght in the west.
The higher you climb of course the better the views and you should be able to see Wales or Enya on a fine day. If you fancy a little more adrenalin why not try mountain-biking along its trails?
41 While up the mountains, you have to make a stopover at Johnny Fox’s, which is Ireland’s highest pub. It is a bit touristy but they do pull a good pint.
Closer to the city (well, actually in the city) is Phoenix Park – Europe’s largest Urban park. It’s usually where you’ll find Dublin’s fit brigade training for their next 10k, marathon or ironman. It’s also home to Dublin Zoo, the Irish Presi- dent and has a really beautiful herd of 500 fallow deer.
For a great way to experience outdoors Dublin we suggest you try a hillwalk- ing group. It’s a great way to take in some scenery and meet some friendly Irish folk (and hey, they won’t know you just want to practise your English!). Try bogtrotters.ie or walkers.meetup.com for more.
Gyms
The explosion of gyms around the city in the last ten years means gym mem- bership prices have been dipping nicely ahead of your arrival. You should be able to find memberships for from one to twelve months, but shop around and ask for a free trial or day pass before you sign up.
Some popular options in town include the pricey but swanky One Escape in Smithfield, and RAW in Portabello. Don’t forget many hotels also contain gyms for membership – our pick for the Docklands area is the Maldron Hotel on Cardif Lane.
You’ll also find a lot of happening in terms of wellness and fitness classes in Dublin. From boxing and MMA classes to Bikram yoga and pilates, most gyms have classes free to members - so do be sure to ask.
Think you’re ready now? Good. Now drop and give us twenty!
42 Rugby
With local side Leinster having been the European Heineken Cup’s maestros for the past two years, it’s fair to say rugby has developed a fanatical fol- lowing in the city. Leinster play their home games at the Aviva Stadium and we reckon you should check out some of the action during your stay. If you fancy something more active, without the bruises, tag-Rugby is non-contact version of the game and a super way to work your social network. Teams are usually mixed and the Irish après-tag scene is known as one of the hottest dating grounds in town. “Try!”. Visit tagrugby.ie for listings.
GAA
Okay, we may not have topped the medal table at the London Olympics but this partly as Ireland’s most popular sports are all uniquely Celtic. Gaelic Football (a little like Aussie Rules) Hurling (a little like hockey) and camogie (female hurling) are played throughout every village in the nation.
Dublin is mostly a footballing county and watching a game is quite the cul- tural spectacle. Croke Park is one of the largest stadiums in the world and hosts regular games. Buddy up with a local to learn the rules!
Soccer
Nothing quite grips the nation however than an International soccer match, even when we’re losing (danke, Deutschland; merci, Thierry; muchas gracias, España…).
Dublin has a number of soccer teams such as Shamrock Rovers and Bohe- mians though they haven’t been knocking on the door of the Champion’s
43 League (yet!). To have your own kick-around, you’ll find many companies run five-a-side nights, but, if you and a few friends or colleagues can put a dream-team together, you can register with the leisureleagues.ie tournament.
Culture & Arts
Dublin is the true cultural hub of Ireland (Galway or Cork might think otherwise) and has been drawing Ireland’s cultural spirits for decades. The National Gallery of Ireland should be your stop if you want to combo up the works of Irish painter Jack B. Yeats with art from the likes of Picasso and Monet, while the IMMA is a haven for modernist aficionados. For a kicked back Sunday activity, check out Francis Bacon’s exhibits at the Hugh Lane gallery, which also hosts classical music concerts on Sundays.
To set your finger on the pulse on Dublin’s hipsterville art-scene check out exhibitions at the Monster Truck or the Exchange in Temple Bar.
Cinema
In a city which sees a fair share of drizzle, Dubliners are unsurprisingly ro- mantic old lovers of film. The city even hosts a number of annual movie bashes including the Jameson International Film Festival, the Kinopolis Polish Film Festival and the GAZE LGBT Film Festival.
For a night at the flicks, the city’s main theatres include Cineworld at the Parnell Centre (Dublin 1) and the Savoy on O’Connell Street. The city’s main indie movie hubs are the Irish Film Institute (IFI) located in Temple Bar and the wonderful Lighthouse cinema in Smithfield.
44 Meeting House Square, Temple Bar. Great spot for cultural events.
45 LGBT Dublin
Tell us. How could the home of Oscar Wilde not be a gay capital? Gay marriage is now legal and Dublin is one of Europe’s most vibrant gay cities where conservative attitudes, like Elton John’s wardrobe, have been left in the 1980’s.
Although Dublin 8 (around Portobello) is the unofcial gay village, the scene in the city is not very ghettoised - you’ll find a strip of gay-friendly business running from Capel St. on the Northside though to Temple Bar and George’s Street on the Southside.
Dublin’s main LGBT hang-out is the Front Lounge on Parliament Street where you’ll find the girls flirting in the front room, the boys in the back. The Dragon & The George meanwhile are the city’s two main late-night spots where you can expect the usual mix of bingo, go-go dancing and Eurovision parties.
For a list of all the happening events in the LGBT Dublin, check out the Gay Community News.
Food & Drink
Dublin dining? What can we say. With an explosion of pop-up restaurants mixed with old Dublin institutions like Bewley’s on Grafton Street, Dublin’s dining scene is both irresistibly retro and tantalizingly en-trende. Our current favourites include the very funky Foam on Strand Street who serve incredibly imaginative salads (with a décor to match) and Mother Hubbard on Capel Street for their quirky gourmet sandwiches and friendly community vibe.
Le Bon Crubeen on Talbot Street serve a delish early bird menu, vegetarians can bask in chickpea heaven at Cornucopia on Wicklow Street, sushi lovers
46 can head to Yamamori on Great George’s Street and fancy something eth- nic? Try the Little Jerusalem Lebanese restaurant in Rathmines.
Finally, no night out in Dublin is complete without a late night chaser to the “chipper” (fish & chip shop). Our fish and chips faves include Beschof’s on O’Connell Street, Burdocks in Christchurch and Ireland’s very own Super- macs located across the city (try the cheesy chips!).
Best cofee in town? We go for Twisted Pepper on Middle Abbey Street but remember, this is a nation of tea-drinkers!
To savour the ultimate Irish cuppa head to Wall & Keogh on Richmond Street and lovers of desserts must make tracks for The Cake Café. The hidden hangout on Pleasants Place (described as Jade Jagger in a tea-room) serves a range of heavenly gateaux and even ofer you hot-water bottles if you feel chilly sitting on their courtyard. Cheers to that!
Fancy that great Dublin pint? Amid Dublin’s thousands of bars we suggest you head to some of our old classics: The Lord Edward on Christchurch Place, the Long Hall on George’s Street or Mulligan’s on Poolbeg Street which dates from 1782 is where you’ll find us supping.
Come swing by – and we’ll buy you a pint!
47 DUBLIN RENTAL PRICES
Figures from DaftDaft RentalRental Report Report 2016 2015.
North County Dublin Average rent: €1,1491320 North City Average rent: €1,2811474 West County Dublin Average rent: €1,2131399 City Centre Average rent: €1,3781575
South City Average rent: €1,4851701
South County Dublin Average rent: €1,5731801
28 Single Bed Rental per month
Dublin City Centre €¤580507
South County Dublin €¤535473
South Dublin City €¤520458
North Dublin City ¤€485418
North County Dublin ¤€365424
West County Dublin ¤€436365
Double Bed Rental per month
Dublin City Centre ¤€709638
South County Dublin ¤€623567
South Dublin City ¤€652586
North Dublin City ¤€576507
North County Dublin €¤527474
West County Dublin €¤540474
29 WEB GUIDE
Handy sites for living in the Fair City
48 zartis.com We’re with you all the way. visitdublin.com Dublin's ofcial tourism site - telling you about all our top attractions. dublintown.ie Pinterest style photo-guide to dining and culture in the city. totallydublin.ie Alternative social guide to some of Dublin's best-kept secrets. dublin.lecool.com Dublin's weekly mag on the coolest happenings in the capital. entertainment.ie Gig guides, cinema listings, and theatre reviews: Ireland's social go-to. expatexchange.com Social network forum for international community in Ireland.
49 For more info, visit zartis.com