266 THE BISHOP’S ISLES THE BISHOP’S ISLES 267 The birds are incredibly tolerant of humans compared stone has been found on Berneray. Iron Age evidence THE BISHOP’S ISLES THE BISHOP’S ISLES Eriskay with those on the mainland. Even so, the majority of has been excavated from a midden beside the village These are the Islands of Sandray (Sanndraigh), routes have been climbed on those crags which are free on Mingulay along with coins and bronze pins, from Lingay (Lingeigh), Pabbay (Pabaigh), Mingulay & BARRA of nesting birds or on areas of cliff where the routes do the Early Christian or Pictish period. The islands were (Miùghlaigh) and Berneray (Bearnaraigh). not directly disturb any nesting sites. stocked with sheep in 1911 and the following summer 0:40 The larger colonies of gull, Fulmar and Kittiwake the last inhabitants departed. The Barra Isles Sheep- Maps: Ordnance Survey Maps 1:50,000: Landranger are usually shared by Razorbill and Guillemot. These stock Company owned the island and sheep remained 31; 1:25,000: Explorer 452 Ardmhor colonies are obvious by their acres of guano and are until 1999. In April 2000 Mingulay, Pabbay, and Bern- Lying towards the southern end of the Outer best avoided (they are in any case highly unpleasant eray were sold to the National Trust for Scotland who Hebrides island chain, this collection of beautiful places to climb, even after the nesting period!). removed all but a handful of the, now feral, sheep. and remote islands is also known as The Barra Isles. BARRA Puffin, razorbill and guillemot sometimes nest as indi- The abandoned cottages that make up the village in Barra is connected to its close southern neighbour vidual pairs, scattered over the more broken areas of Mingulay, like the other island village areas, are Sched- Vatersay by a causeway, and these two southernmost cliff which offer little interest for climbing, but they also uled Monuments. While they have become filled with Castlebay inhabited islands have a population of over 1,000. nest in small groups on horizontal ledges on steep and sand in relatively recent times, it is important not to To the south lie a series of uninhabited islands, the otherwise impressive climbing venues. Here again they disturb any ruins, and not to use them as shelters or first of which is Sandray. There follows a longer are obvious, and climbing directly through a nesting latrines as they are important to the local people of stretch of sea leading to Pabbay (the Priest Island), 4:45 Oban ledge should be avoided during the nesting period, Barra as a memorial to those who lived on the island VATERSAY then the notorious Sound of Mingulay followed by although climbing to the side seems to cause no disturb- many years ago. The islands and buildings are still the island of Mingulay. South of Mingulay lies the ance. In fact the birds will be very inquisitive and will visited regularly by descendants to remember their most southern island in the Outer Hebridean chain, rarely fly off as long as you remain relatively quiet and forbears, so please don’t disturb them in any way, and Berneray, which is locally known as Barra Head, SANDRAY don’t surprise them. treat all these ancient sites with respect;. Apart from there being several other islands called Berneray In some areas a single pair of guillemot or razorbill will visits for day trips, climbers have become the ‘inhabit- in the Hebrides. All these islands offer excellent LINGAY nest on a small ledge. These birds lay eggs directly onto ants’, albeit transitory, of these island. sea-cliffs of immaculate, weathered Lewisian Gneiss. bare ledges, incubating them by placing the eggs on top Camping and Health Issues: The National Trust for All are described in this book except Lingeigh, which PABBAY of their feet. When startled by an approaching climber Scotland (NTS) now own and manage the islands of is found online; see cover for details. the eggs can be dislodged and lost forever in the sea. Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray. The following advice is It is best to make an effort to search for these birds on issued as a guide from the NTS and the Mountaineering the line of your chosen route whilst abseiling in, and to Natural History: Mingulay and Pabbay were desig- Scotland. not continue if they are found. If, after doing everything nated Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1983 MINGULAY possible, you do encounter them en-route, do your best Ensure your visit has as little impact on the islands and further designated under the EU Habitats Directive to limit disturbance in these situations. Sections of the as possible. Follow advice about wild camping and as a Special Protection Area in 1994, mainly due to the 0 5 sanitation in the outdoors so as not to pollute the BERNERAY Giant’s Pipes cliff on Berneray are a good example of presence of large numbers of breeding sea birds. If you km where care should be taken. available water supplies. Take ALL your rubbish back are interested in birds, you will be pleased to hear that Corncrake is probably the rarest species encountered off the island with you; don’t be tempted to burn it. THE BISHOP'S ISLES Pabbay, Mingulay and Berneray all support large colonies nesting birds. There are great skuas (bonxies) nesting and it is best to avoid the taller foliage of lazy beds as Camping: On Mingulay the preferred climbers’ camp- of puffin, razorbill, fulmar, kittiwake, shag, guillemot on the summit grass of the hills, and the rare corncrake much as possible to reduce any disturbance. You will site is on the flat ground beside the old school house (including black guillemot), storm petrel, shearwater, in the reeds of lazy beds. Numerous snipe, rock pipit, know if they are in residence, as their distinctive croak (the small habitable cottage to the south of the bay) four species of gull and many others. Climbers should skylark, starling and wren can be found nestingg in the will keep you awake all night and camping well away and not near the remains of the old village. On Pabbay take care not to disturb these colonies, although the ruins of the cottages, and eider duck often nest inland from these areas also ensures you get undisturbed sleep! the preferred area is to the south of the stream in the climbing is likely to be particularly guano-covered and on the promontories. Buzzard and eagle (including sea The sound of snipe ‘drumming’ cannot be avoided and village bay. Open fires should ONLY be lit on the beach. so not attractive. Breeding commences in March for eagle) can also be seen hunting on most of the islands. will keep light sleepers awake no matter where you Obviously there are no toilets on the islands. If you some species, but the majority start nesting in May, and The islands are also home to large numbers of camp. are a small group, then using common sense and advice are usually present until mid-July. common seal, which should not be disturbed. Seal pups Many archaeological artefacts litter these islands. On given by Mountaineering Scotland and Scottish Natural Twitchers will also be interested in the fact that Pabbay will be found apparently abandoned; they are not aban- Pabbay, neolithic chambered tombs have been identi- Heritage will suffice. Large groups of eight or more need and Mingulay also have large populations of ground doned and must be left alone. fied, and a 6th-century Pictish symbol stone; a similar to think seriously about digging latrines. The main issue The Bishop’s Isles (photo Mike Webster) 268 THE BISHOP’S ISLES XXXXXXXX 269 here is where to place them and how best to operate Despite all of the above possible options for getting them. Good advice on this is contained in ‘The Exped- help, none can be completely relied upon. The weather ition Handbook’ by the Expedition Advisory Service, can be extreme and groups have been known to be Razorbill & Puffin and NTS suggest the best area to bury human waste is stranded with little food, so come prepared and be (photo Cynthia Grindley) in the inter-tidal zone on the beach. self-sufficient. Fresh water burns exist on Sandray, Pabbay and Climbing Ethics: From its earliest development in 1993 Mingulay and can usually be relied upon throughout most ascents have been on-sight, an approach adhered the summer, except during droughts. They have proven to by most activists. While a few pegs have been placed, to be drinkable without chemical treatment (but after in-situ gear is uncommon, probably a wise policy given boiling) so far and every effort should be made to keep the hostile and corrosive nature of the environment. them clean. There are two old wells on Berneray, neither There is generally ample natural protection on most of which are clean and they can dry to stagnant pools routes and if a line is too unprotected for you, then it is in summer. Take enough water to last your trip. There best left for bolder future climbers to on-sight. is little or no running water on Lingeigh, unless it has been very wet. Access to the climbs: Descent to most of the cliff The island of Pabbay used to be infested with various bases has involved abseiling, as they are inaccessible species of tick. In places, particularly around the flat without calm seas and a boat. A 150m static rope is long grassy area near the beach, they were a real nuisance, but enough for most of the larger cliffs on Mingulay, but this seems to have abated in recent years.