The Azerbaijanis Had High Folk Art Are in Mingechevir Give a Cer- Material Culture Since An- Reflected Intain Idea of Garments of Cient Times

Office of Communication of Azerbaijan PRESENTS May, 2013 Azerbaijani national costumes

www.ocaz.eu 2 he Azerbaijani clothes. It may be apparent national cos- on clothing and accesso- Ttumes are one ries, as well as on embroi- of the valuable sources to dery and weaving art. learn our culture. Playing During archaeological an important role in iden- excavations in Azerbaijan, tifying ethnogeny, cultural bronze needles and awls Hair pin. Gold and bronze. 1st century BC and historical relations, dated to the early Bronze – 1st century AD; found during archeological excavations in Shamakhi) mutual influence between Age (3rd millennium BC) nations, clothes are also were discovered. Thesethose periods. Remains of influenced byfindings prove that the an- clothes made of silk fabrics economic and cient population of Azer- were found in Mingechevir geographical baijan could sew clothes catacomb graves (5-6th cen- conditions. for themselves. Small clay turies AD). Gold accesso- Historical, statues (2nd millennium ries and clay shoe-shape ethnographic BC) found in Kultepe and dishes dated back to 3-4th and artistic seals and fingerwares (5th centuries also prove that features of century BC) discovered the Azerbaijanis had high folk art are in Mingechevir give a cer- material culture since an- reflected intain idea of garments of cient times.

Lavalier. Gold and crystal (7-5th century BC; found during archeological excavations in Mingechevir) portant textile centers. An important khanates influenced changes (albeit silk textile center, Ganja should es- superficially) in clothes. The changes pecially be mentioned. Evliya Çelebi were mostly found in textile and dec- (12th century) wrote that the Ganja orations, not in cut style and shape. silk was very popular. In the 18th century women clothes Skillful weavers of Nakhchivan were made more beautifully and el- manufactured inexpensive, but beau- egantly. The traveler Marshall von 3 tiful cotton fabrics of high quality, Biberstein, who was in Azerbaijan in which were widely demanded. the late 18th century, admired local Undoubtedly, fabric is one of el- women and their clothes. ements reflecting national culture. Paintings by Russian artists Vere- schagin and Gagarin, who in 19th century traveled to Baku, Shamakhi, Sheki, Ganja, Kazakh and other cit-

Veil covering head.

Window curtain. XIX century

During restoration works in a Patterns and colors of fabrics distin- mausoleum next to the Shirvanshah guished one nation from another, Women clothing set for summer. Shusha. Palace (15th century) in Baku, rem- also different classes and groups with- nants of valuable moire and silk fab- in the same nation. Women costumes ies also expressed admiration by the rics were found. were made mostly of silk and velvet. Azerbaijani national costume. Abundant raw materials in Azer- The 16th and 17th centuries were The territory of Azerbaijan can baijan created favorable conditions rich in development for Azerbaijani be divided into several historical for manufacturing silk and woolen clothes. and ethnographic regions: Guba- clothes here in the Middle Ages. Researches show that a real school Khachmaz, Absheron, Lankaran-Ast- In the 17th century, Azerbaijan of national clothing was created at ara, Shamakhi, Karabakh, Nakhchi- was an important sericulture region that time. A person’s age, occupation of the Near East, while Shirvan the and social status could be identified “A woman from Shamakhi”. By Gagarin. main sericulture province of Azerbai- by his or her costume. jan. Shamakhi Shabran, Arash, Ga- Upper clothes of 16-17th centu- bala, Javad, Agdash and other cities ries were quite diverse and colorful in were Azerbaijan’s main textile cent- Azerbaijan. At that time, top clothes ers. The famous traveler Adam Olear- developed as continuation of mostly ius wrote: “They (Shirvan people) ancient clothing traditions. However, are mostly engaged in yarn, silk and their decoration was gradually en- wool weaving, embroidery.” Textiles riched and sophisticated. The main manufactured in Shamakhi became changes evolved in details, patterns well-known since there was a con- and decorations. Emergence of in- stant demand for elegant headcovers dependent khanates, such as Baku, and other weaving products. Guba, Shamakhi, Karabakh, Nakh- Azerbaijani cities, such as Ganja, chivan, Ganja, Lankaran, Sheki made Sheki, Nakhchivan, Maragha, Ma- an impact on costume, too. Different rand, Arash, and Ordubad were im- political and economic situation in

www.ocaz.eu van-Ordubad, Gabala-Oghuz, Sheki- 2 Zagatala, Ganja and Shamkir-Ka- zakh. The same clothes worn by the 4 Azerbaijanis in the above-mentioned ethnographic regions prove that they 1 historically belong to the same eth- nic group. Slight differences in costume reflected only local patterns of the common national clothing. The costume reflected local pe- culiarities of Azerbaijan’s various historical and ethnographic regions, 3 clothes, indicated age, marital and social status of its owner. Clothes of a young girl and a married woman were visibly different. Young women wore richer and more beautifully 5 4

Azerbaijani women costumes consisting of upper and lower piec- es dated 19th and early 20th century could be divided into two groups. 1. Chapkan. Decorative women clothes for The upper garments comprised spring-autumn. upper shirt, chapkan, arkhalig, labba- 2. Arkhalig. Women top clothes for au- da, kulaja, kurdu, eshmak and bahari. tumn. Chapkan was one beautifully cut 3. Labbada (Lavada). Women top clothes for autumn. Women clothes. Women clothes for women top clothes. Having linen, 4. Labbada 3. Women top clothes for summer. it was tight. On sides, it has bulging autumn. parts named chapig, which showed 5. Eshmak. Women clothing for winter. decorated garments. Clothes of girls 6. Kurdu. Warm women clothing for and older women were less deco- the body nicer and more attractive. Arkhalig was one most popular winter. rated. 7. Sample of kulaja. Unlike daily and working clothes, costume among women in Azerbai- wedding and special-occasion cos- jan. Like chapkan, arkhalig also con- tumes usually were made of precious tained linen and was tight. The most fabrics and decorated with golden beautiful women arkhaligs were and silver jewelry. made in Shusha, Sheki, Nakhchivan and Shamakhi. Children clothing. Labbada (labbada) - was banded Shamakhi. and lined. With open collar, it was tied at waist. Slightly lower than 7 waist, its sides were bulging. The sleeves were short, up to the elbow. The armpit was open. Mostly made of velvet and various gilded fabrics, labbada had its collar, sleeves and edge decorated with elegant galloons. Eshmak was type of upper clothing, usually made 5

Beads. Carved gold. (Shamakhi, 1870s) of tirma and velvet. Inside, collar, and tirma. Its collar, waist cut, lap and kashmiri shawl, handwoven woolen sleeves and edge of eshmak were cov- sleeves were usually decorated with shawl) was worn over kalaghayi. ered with fur. In addition, its sleeves, gulabatin. Aragchin was one of the most edge, and collar were decorated with The length of the skirt worn by popular women headgears in the 16- different galloons and chains. Azerbaijani woman extended down 17th centuries. There were mainly two Kurdu was one of the most richly to fetlock, except for that in the Na- types of aragchin: for women and for decorated upper clothing for women. khchivan-Ordubad region. In Nakh- maids. Made of tirma and velvet, kurdu was chivan-Ordubad, women wore short- Headgears were worn by women banded and sleeveless. As winter er skirts. Skirt was made of a variety at home, in the yard, and at guests’ clothing, it had neck, collar and edge of fabrics, including patterned silk, houses. When going outside they made of fur. One of the popular cloth- wool, chintz, tirma. In some cities, would usually wear a white charshab. ing was Khorasan kurdu. Imported women wore chakhchur when going outside. Chakhchur was made of silk. “A woman from Baku”. By Gagarin. Buttons made of gold or silver were sewn along the collar of women clothes. Sometimes golden coins were added to the edge of shirt. Gold threads, beads and other kinds of embroidery were also very common. Women usually wore a golden or gilded Aragchins. (headgear) 19th century silver belt over arkhalig or chapkan. Moreover, leather belts with from Khorasan, that kind of kurdu silver coins and silver buckle were was made of dark-yellow leather also widely used. and had patterns sewn with the Kalaghayi, various kerchiefs, naz- same-colored silk thread on naz and gaz-gaz silk veils were the surface. most popular women veils. Kalaghayi Kulaja was an overcoat with was manufactured in special shops of straight back and frilled edge. An famous sericulture centers, such as open-collar kulaja extended till the Sheki, Ganja and Shamakhi. Colorful lap, while its sleeve was longer than kinds of kalaghayi were preferred. In elbow. It was usually made of velvet cold weather, a shawl (tirma shawl,

www.ocaz.eu Women shoes. Decorative embroidery.

Traditionally, little girls and old wom- Buckle. Silver. Stampfiligran en were allowed to not wear charshab outside. Charshab was typical for women of some towns and suburban villages. When leaving house, women put en. Such headgears were made by character. Accessories were made of on charshab. It was made of colored jewelers, not by tailors. satin, checked felt fabric and various gold and silver. Precious stones like That kind of headgears was spread kinds of silk fabrics. Women covered diamond, emerald, ruby, pearl, tur- in charshab sometimes wore also ru- mostly in Karabakh, Ganja, Kazakh, quoise, agate were also used in deco- band. Tovuz, and Borchali. rations. Azerbaijan’s jewelry centers In the 18th century and later a Although women shoes looked were Baku, Ganja, Shamakhi, Sheki, headgear covering forehead was also like men shoes in the 18th century, Nakhchivan, and Shusha. Local jew- they were more elegant and abun- popular among the Azerbaijani wom- elers could make all kinds of jewelry dantly decorated. Shoes of noble people needed. Silver belts made by women had outer embroidery and Kubachi jewelers in Dagestan for a silver piece with ornaments inside from heel to paw (examples of such men and women were also popular in Women jackboots. women shoes can be found in a num- Azerbaijan. ber of museums in our country). Azerbaijani women were very Azerbaijani women wore deco- fond of decorations, and used them rated shoes or jackboots. skillfully. They include a variety of Various accessories complete head and chest decorations, rings, clothes and enriched their national earrings, belts, bracelets and bangles.

Belt. Silver. Blackened engraved design. To future with traditions

- To what extent can you achieve your objec- tives? 7 - So far the Baku National Costume House has designed hundreds of national garments. The costumes designed by our house have been used in various events, exhibitions and celebration both in Azerbaijan and abroad (Days of the Azerbaijani Culture in China, the Silk Road Festival in the United States, Days of the Azerbaijani Cul- ture in Turkey, etc.). A new project of our center intends to further promote the Azerbaijani national costumes. They will be exhibited in cultural and public organizations and institutions of different profiles. More specifically, it is planned to include some national attributes and patterns in garments of employees of cultural and public organizations. It should be emphasized that producing national cos- Clothing is closely related to the history of the nation. tumes requires some time due to importing fabrics of high People`s ethnicity, history, folk art, artistic decorations, quality from abroad and due manufacturing. Therefore, ornaments are all reflected in national garments. the Baku National Costume House has set an objective to The Baku National Costume House, opened in Janu- expand the scope of producing national garments for their ary 2010, produces and promotes Azerbaijani national wider promotion. In general, expansion of this manufac- clothes, which are considered to be treasures of the na- turing is important for our national culture and values. tional heritage. We are presenting you our interview with Thus, our goal is to expand our activities in this sphere and Konul Valibayli, head of the Baku National Costume increase production considering demand. It is also very House. important to support collaborators of the Baku National - Ms. Valibayli, you have taken over a great respon- Costume House. Good examples of such support are the sibility by creating this fashion house. national fashion shows “From tradition to future” held in - It is true that our national costumes are known for the Baku Museum Center and a national costume exhibi- its rich colors, cut style, elaborate design and its variety. tion held in Park Bulvar shopping center. Of course, each region of Azerbaijan has its local patterns, details; however, there are common features in traditional costumes. Naturally, as a modern producer we apply some innovations in our work. We combine designs of different regions to create new looks. Thanks to efforts of young fashion designers of our center, we design very interest- ing national costumes. Let me emphasize that we try to preserve cut style and local particularities in our costume designs.

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The Chief of Creative Group Creative Group: Office of Communication Fuad Babayev Faig ALIYEV of Azerbaijan Ph.D in Political Sciences Sevda BABAYEVA 200, Avenue Louise 1050, Esmira IBRAHIMOVA Brussels, Belgium Khalid MAMMADOV [email protected] Muslum MAMMADOV www.ocaz.eu Dadash MUSAYEV