Copen Contents

Description 3 Fabric Requirements 4 Additional Supplies 4 Size Charts 5 Printing Layout 9 Pattern Inventory 10

Pattern Guidelines Fabric 11 Size 11 Pattern 12 Cutting 12 14

Instructions 1. Stabilise the neck edge 15 2. Sew the bust darts 17 3. Sew the waist darts 20 4. Finish allowances 22 5. Sew seams 23 6. Sew the 26 7. Insert the invisible 29 8. the back seam 32 9. Sew the sleeve 35 10. Insert the sleeve 37 11. Attach the facing 42 12. Stitch centre back facing 44 13. Grade and clip seam allowances 46 14. Understitch the facing 47 15. Sew the garment hem 49 16. Stitch hook and eye (optional) 51 Made to Sew Copen 3

Copen

Make Copen, a simple yet stylish shift dress or top. With a classic , bust darts and optional waist darts Copen is quick to make and easy to personalise.

Great for learning or practising essential dressmaking techniques this pattern covers how to sew darts and contour darts, insert an invisible zipper, introduce sleeves and attach a professional facing.

Copen has been designed to enable the development of pattern cutting and construction technique tutorials. Head to our YouTube page to see what we have to offer.

This pattern features 3/4 length sleeves. Should you require a different length or wish to learn pattern cutting with our YouTube tutorials we recommend you purchase the add-on sleeve pattern. Made to Sew Copen 4

Fabric Requirements

Copen can be made in a variety of fabrics; the fabric you choose may change the hang or look of the garment. Check out our YouTube tutorials to see what we have made for inspiration.

Suitable fabrics include: cotton, cotton blends, linen, crepe, wool blends, stable jersey (double knit).

Tip: Remember this pattern doesn’t have a . If your fabric is lightweight you may wish to add a lining or interline your garment. Watch our lining and interlining tutorials on YouTube for pattern drafting and construction tips.

Additional Supplies

- Invisible zipper: 9” (23cm) top or 16” (41cm) dress - Hook and eye (optional) - Fusible - Made to Sew Copen 5

Measurements - Imperial

Size Chart

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bust 33” 34” 36” 38” 40” 42 1/2” 45”

Waist 25” 26” 28” 30 1/2” 33” 35 1/2” 38”

Hip 35” 36” 38” 40” 42 1/2” 45” 47”

Finished Garment Measurements

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bust 1 1/2” 34 1/2” 35 1/2” 37 1/2” 39 1/2” 41 1/2” 44” 46 1/2”

Waist (with darts) 4 1 /4 ” 29 1 /4 ” 30 1 /4 ” 32 1 /4 ” 34 3/4 ” 37 1 /4 ” 39 3/4 ” 42 1 /4 ”

Waist (without darts) 7 1/2” 32 1/2” 33 1/2” 35 1/2” 38” 40 1/2” 43” 45 1/2”

Hip 2 1/4” - 2 3/4 ” 37 1 /4 ” 38 1 /4 ” 40 1 /4 ” 42 3/4 ” 45 1 /4 ” 47 3/4 ” 49 3/4 ”

Bicep 2 1 /4 ” 12 3/8” 12 3/4 ” 13 1 /4 ” 13 5/8” 14 1 /4 ” 143/4 ” 15 1/2”

Back Length 14 1 /4 ” 14 1/2” 14 3/4 ” 15” 15 1 /4 ” 15 1/2” 15 5/8”

Finished Length - Top 21” 21 1 /4 ” 21 1/2” 21 3/4 ” 22” 22 1 /4 ” 22 3/8”

Finished Length - Dress 34 3/4 ” 35” 35 1 /4 ” 35 1/2” 35 3/4 ” 36” 36 1/8”

Finished Length - Sleeve 15 7/8” 16 1/8” 16 3/8” 16 5/8” 16 7/8” 17 1/8” 17 1/8”

Made to Sew patterns are drafted for a C Cup. Made to Sew Copen 6

Fabric Requirements - Top

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

45” Wide 2yd 2yd 2yd 2yd 2yd 2yd 2yd

60” Wide 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd 1 1/2 yd

Interfacing 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd

Fabric Requirements - Dress

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

45” Wide 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd 2 3/4 yd

60” Wide 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd 1 3/4 yd

Interfacing 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd 3/8yd Made to Sew Copen 7

Measurements - Metric

Size Chart

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bust 83.0cm 86.0cm 91.0cm 96.5cm 101.5cm 108.0cm 114.0cm

Waist 63.0cm 66.0cm 71.0cm 77.0cm 84.0cm 90.0cm 96.0cm

Hip 89.0cm 91.0cm 96.5cm 101.5cm 108.0cm 114.0cm 119.0cm

Finished Garment Measurements

Size Ease 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

Bust 4.0cm 87.0cm 90.0cm 95.0cm 100.5cm 105.5cm 112.0cm 118.0cm

Waist (with darts) 11.0cm 74.0cm 77.0cm 82.0cm 88.0cm 95.0cm 101.0cm 107.0cm

Waist (without darts) 19.0cm 82.0cm 85.0cm 90.0cm 96.0cm 103.0cm 109.0cm 115.0cm

Hip 5.5cm - 7.0cm 94.5cm 96.5cm 102.0cm 108.5cm 115.0cm 121.0cm 126.0cm

Bicep 5.7cm 31.4cm 32.4cm 33.7cm 34.7cm 36.2cm 37.5cm 39.4cm

Back Length 36.2cm 36.8cm 37.5cm 38.0cm 38.7cm 39.4cm 39.7cm

Finished Length - Top 53.4cm 54.0cm 54.7cm 55.2cm 55.9cm 56.6cm 56.9cm

Finished Length - Dress 88.2cm 88.8cm 89.5cm 90.0cm 90.7cm 91.4cm 91.7cm

Finished Length - Sleeve 40.3cm 41.0cm 41.5cm 42.3cm 42.8cm 43.5cm 43.5cm

Made to Sew patterns are drafted for a C Cup. Made to Sew Copen 8

Fabric Requirements - Top

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

115cm Wide 1.8m 1.8m 1.8m 1.8m 1.8m 1.8m 1.8m

150cm Wide 1.3m 1.3m 1.3m 1.3m 1.3m 1.3m 1.3m

Interfacing 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m

Fabric Requirements - Dress

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6

115cm Wide 2.5m 2.5m 2.5m 2.5m 2.5m 2.5m 2.5m

150cm Wide 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m 1.5m

Interfacing 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m 0.3m Made to Sew Copen 9

Pattern Printing Layout

6 5 4 When printed correctly this 6 3 square should measure 5 4 2 1 3 0 2 (5cm x 5cm) 1 0

Made to Sew Made to Sew

oe oe Front BACK CENTRE Back 1 on fold Cut 2 5/8” (1.5cm) 5/8” (1.5cm) Seam Allowance 3/4” (2cm) Hem Allowance CENTRE FRONT 3/4” (2cm) Hem Allowance

6 5 4 3 2 1 0

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

BUST CUT ON FOLD

LENGTHEN / SHORTEN LENGTHEN / SHORTEN

WAIST WAIST GRAINLINE

CUT FOR TOP CUT FOR TOP

HIP HIP

0 1 2 3 4 5 6

6 5 4 3 2 1 0

6 6 5 5 Made to Sew 4 Made to Sew 4 3 3 2 oe 2 1 Back Facing oe 1 0

6 Fabric: Cut 2 Front Facing 0 5 Interfacing: Cut 2 4 Fabric: Cut 1 on fold

5/8” (1.5cm) Seam Allowance GRAINLINE

3 CENTRE BACK Interfacing: Cut 1 on fold 2 5/8” (1.5cm) Seam Allowance 1 CENTRE FRONT 0 CUT ON FOLD GRAINLINE

BICEP

10A 10B 10C 10D 10E

10A 10B 0 1 2 3 4 510C 6 10D 10E

LENGTHEN / SHORTEN

Lengthen / shorten Notch

Buttonhole or similar fastening All seam allowances are included, please view individual pattern pieces. Grainline

Se at Cut on fold Matching point

Imperial

Made to Sew Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 11A 11A 11B 11B 11C 11C Bust 33 34 36 38 40 42 1/2 45 11D 11D

Waist 25 26 28 30 1/2 33 35 1/2 38

Hip 35 36 38 40 42 1/2 45 47 ELBOW

Metric

Size 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 www.madetosew.com [email protected] Bust 83 86 91 96.5 101.5 108 114

oe Waist 63 66 71 77 84 90 96 Follow us @madetosew Sleeve Hip 89 91 96.5 101.5 108 114 119 Cut 2

The contents of this pattern including instructions, photos, diagrams and videos 5/8” (1.5cm) Seam Allowance are protected by copyright and belong exclusively to Made to Sew. This pattern is for personal use only and no part of this pattern may be reproduced, transmitted or shared in any form. Garments made from this pattern and sold commercially 3/4” (2cm) Hem Allowance are prohibited. Copyright © 2017 Made to Sew. All rights reserved. Made to Sew Copen 10

Pattern Inventory

1. Front 2. Back 3. Sleeve 4. Front Facing 5. Back Facing Made to Sew Copen 11

Pattern Guidelines

Preparation

Read through all of the instructions and prepare any additional tutorials. Collect the required fabric and supplies to make the garment.

Fabric Pre-wash the fabric using the same method you intend to use to clean the finished garment. This will prevent the final garment from shrinking after the first wash. Iron on the wrong side of the fabric using a suitable iron setting, test on a small area prior to use.

Test the fabric on the using the settings and stitches you plan to work with on the final garment. Note any differences or issues that you come across.

Size Measure your bust, waist and hip, compare your measurements to our size chart. Don’t worry if your measurements fall into different sizes, you are able to grade between the sizes. For example you can be a size 3 bust, 4 waist and 5 hip. Learn how to do this in our corresponding tutorial. You may find it useful to view our finished garment measurements to see how much ease we have included in the pattern.

If required please compare your length measurements and adjust these accordingly. View our tutorial for advice on how to lengthen or shorten patterns. We always recommend creating a toile (sample) of the pattern to check the fit. Made to Sew Copen 12

Pattern Please view the Read Me file prior to printing the pattern. You will need to download the free Adobe Acrobat Reader software to have access to our layered PDF. The pattern is available to be printed large scale at a copy shop or at home on A4 or US Letter paper.

In the layered PDF you can pick the garment size or sizes you wish to print.

If you decide to print the pattern at home we would recommend printing page 1 initially to check the scale. Make sure your printer is set to print at 100% with scaling turned off. You will need to the borders and assemble the pages following our layout.

Watch our YouTube tutorial on how to print and assemble your pattern.

Make any adjustments to the printed pattern and cut out the final pattern. Alternatively trace the details onto a new sheet of paper or ; this will enable you to keep the printed copy for future use.

Seam allowances are included: 5/8” (1.5cm) SEAM allowance 3/4” (2cm) HEM allowance

Cutting Double layer of fabric The majority of fabrics can be cut in a double layer. Fold the fabric in half selvedge to selvedge, with the right sides together. along the edge to hold the layers in position.

Single layer of fabric Certain fabrics will need to be cut in a single layer for accuracy. These include patterned fabrics that require matching, as well as difficult fabrics that can slip or move during cutting. Examples include silk, jersey, stretch fabrics, sequins etc. Position the fabric with the right side facing up in a single layer.

Place the pattern pieces on top of the fabric; make sure the grainline is parallel to the selvedge. Follow the individual pattern pieces, and either place the pattern on the fold or measure from the grainline to the selvedge. Made to Sew Copen 13

Tip: If you are working with a single layer of fabric you cannot place the pattern on the fold and therefore need to trace off the ‘cut on fold’ pattern to create a duplicate. The two pattern pieces must connect along the ‘cut on fold’ line.

Pin or use pattern weights and cut out the following using your choice of or rotary cutter.

Cut from fabric: 1. Front (on fold) 2. Back x 2 3. Sleeve x 2 4. Front Facing (on fold) 5. Back Facing x 2

Cut from interfacing: 4. Front Facing (on fold) 5. Back Facing x 2

Tip: We recommend using a woven or knit interfacing. The interfacing you choose will depend on the fabric you are working with, generally speaking you will require a lightweight interfacing for this garment. Check out our selection of interfacing.

Mark the notches and darts with your choice of carbon paper and , tacks or removable pen. Alternatively snip into the notches.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the front facing and back facing.

Check out our helpful tutorials for cutting and marking fabric. Made to Sew Copen 14

Sewing: Remember that the pattern includes seam allowances, view individual pattern pieces for details.

The majority of fabrics will work best with a standard (2.5mm stitch length). Test your fabric at the start of the project and make changes to the thread choice, stitch length, tension and sewing machine foot if required.

If your fabric frays finish the raw edges of the fabric with your choice of overlocker/serger, alternatively an overcast or on the sewing machine. Working with a lightweight fabric? Why not complete the garment with a French seam and rolled hem.

Finally test the iron setting required for your fabric; heat, steam and whether a pressing cloth is needed.

Seam allowances are included: 5/8” (1.5cm) SEAM allowance 3/4” (2cm) HEM allowance Made to Sew Copen 15

Pattern has 5/8” (1.5cm) SEAM allowance and 3/4” (2cm) HEM allowance included. Instructions

1. Stabilise the neck edge - tutorial

Start by stabilising the neck edge of the garment.

Use stay tape or cut strips of interfacing (approximately 3/4” (2cm) wide) on the bias. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric along the neck edge, front and back x 2.

Alternatively complete a row of stay stitching. Use a 1.5mm stitch length and stitch in the seam allowance, approximately 1/2” (1.2cm) from the edge of the garment.

Tip: You can purchase bias stay tape or make your own. Made to Sew Copen 16

Stabilise Neck Edge

Stabilise Neck Edge Made to Sew Copen 17

2. Sew the bust darts – tutorial

Next sew the 2 bust darts. The darts should be clearly marked with a method of your choosing (carbon paper/’s tacks/removable pen).

Marked Made to Sew Copen 18

Stitch from the side seam to the point of the dart.

Tip: Stitch the last 2 stitches at the point of the dart on the edge of the fabric. If you struggle with accuracy do not at the dart point. Leave long threads and knot together securely.

Pinned Dart

Press the dart towards the hem of the garment.

Tip: Use a tailor’s ham to achieve a smooth press. If you don’t have a tailor’s ham try rolling up a towel and shaping it underneath the dart. Made to Sew Copen 19

Stitched Dart

Pressed Dart Made to Sew Copen 20

3. Sew the waist darts (optional) - tutorial

For a fitted look you are welcome to sew the waist darts at the front and back. There are 2 waist darts at the front and 2 waist darts at the back.

The darts should have been marked using your preferred method. Stitch from one dart point to the other dart point. This techniques requires accuracy, ideally 2 stitches should be on the edge of the fabric at either end.

Pinned Waist Darts Made to Sew Copen 21

Tip: An easier method is to start sewing in the centre of the dart (backstitch to begin) and stitch to the point. Start again at the centre of the dart and stitch to the opposite point. If you struggle with accuracy do not backstitch at the dart points, leave long threads and tie a knot to secure the stitching.

Press the darts towards the side seam using a pressing tool. Made to Sew Copen 22

4. Finish seam allowances

If you are using an overlocker/serger we recommend finishing the edges of the fabric prior to sewing the seams. Use a 3 or 4 thread stitch and do not cut any fabric as this may affect the seam allowances.

Finish the following edges:

1. Front – side seam x 2 (make sure the darts are finished as pressed), shoulder seam x 2 2. Back – side seam x 2, back seam x 2, shoulder seam x 2 3. Sleeve – seam x 4, hem 4. Front Facing – shoulder seam x 2 5. Back Facing – shoulder seam x 2, back seam x 2

If you do not have access to an overlocker/serger we recommend that you finish the edges of the fabric with an overcast or zigzag stitch on the sewing machine. Depending on your fabric you may find it easier to complete this after sewing the seams together. Why not try a test piece?

Tip: Working with a lightweight fabric? You could complete a French seam to hide any fraying edges with a professional finish. You can simply replace the standard seam with a French seam.

Tip: What is a French Seam? A French seam stitches the fabric twice to hide the fraying edges. Designed for use in lightweight fabrics. Check out our ‘how to’ tutorial. Made to Sew Copen 23

5. Sew seams

Position the right sides of the fabric together, match notches and markings as required. Backstitch at the start and end to secure the seam.

Sew the following seams:

1. Front side seam to back side seam x 2 Stitch from the hem towards the underarm

Pinned Side Seam Made to Sew Copen 24

Pressed Side Seam

2. Front shoulder to back shoulder x 2 Stitch from the neck edge to the shoulder

Shoulder Seam Made to Sew Copen 25

3. Sleeve seams together at the underarm x 2 Stitch from the hem towards the underarm

Sleeve Seam

Press the seam allowances open; use a seam roll and sleeve board for ease. Alternatively try using a rolled up towel.

Finish the hem edge of the garment with the overlocker/serger. Alternatively use the zigzag or overcast stitch on the sewing machine. Made to Sew Copen 26

6. Sew the facing

Stitch the front facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams. Place the right sides of the fabric together and match notches. Start at the neck edge and stitch towards the outside edge of the facing (largest curve).

Matching the Facing Made to Sew Copen 27

Press the seam allowances open.

Finish the bottom edge of the facing (largest curve) with the overlocker/serger. Alternatively use the zigzag or overcast stitch on the sewing machine.

Facing Sewn

Tip: For a professional finish turn the finished bottom edge of the facing towards the wrong side and . Made to Sew Copen 28

Facing Finished Edge Made to Sew Copen 29

7. Insert the invisible zipper - tutorial

Insert the invisible zipper into the centre back seam. Mark the stitching line on the right side of the fabric (5/8” (1.5cm)) from the edge. Mark a horizontal line 3/4” (1.8cm) down from the neck edge. Mark these lines with a product that is easy to remove such as white chalk or a removable pen.

Place the right side of the zipper onto the right side of the fabric. Position the teeth of the zip onto the stitching line (facing the inside of the garment). The top plastic stopper of the zip should sit just beneath the horizontal line.

Pin and stitch one side of the invisible zipper, from the top edge down. Use an invisible zipper foot or a standard zipper foot on your sewing machine.

Pinned Invisible Zipper (first side) Made to Sew Copen 30

Tip: If you are working with a standard zipper foot we recommend ironing the teeth away from the zipper tape. You must stitch as close to the teeth as possible, but not on the teeth. You may need to move the needle to the left or right (depending on your sewing machine) to get the stitching as close as required.

Repeat for the second side; be careful you don’t twist the zip at the bottom edge. Make sure the top edge of the zip and fabric match on both sides, as well as any pattern on the fabric. Stitch from the top of the zip down. If it’s your first time sewing an invisible zip, watch our YouTube tutorial for detailed instructions.

Pinned Invisible Zipper (second side) Made to Sew Copen 31

Invisible Zipper

Tip: Interface the wrong side of the fabric down the centre back where the zip will be introduced. Use stay tape or a strip of interfacing measuring approximately 3/4” (2cm), iron onto the wrong side of the fabric. The interfacing will support the fabric and is especially useful in lightweight fabrics and knits.

Check out our YouTube playlist for alternative fastening methods. Made to Sew Copen 32

8. Stitch the back seam

Once the invisible zipper is inserted you are able to stitch the back seam. Stitch from the hem up to the bottom of the zipper, along the stitching line (5/8” (1.5cm) from the edge of the fabric). You will need to use a standard zipper foot to enable you to stitch close enough to the zipper.

Back Seam Made to Sew Copen 33

Bottom of Zipper

When using the standard zipper foot you may find it easier to draw the stitching line onto the fabric. At the bottom of the zipper stitch approximately 1/8” (3mm) away from the zip and 3/8” (1cm) past the stitching that secures the zipper onto the fabric. Backstitch at the start and end of the seam for security.

Tip: New to sewing invisible ? Stitch the area at the bottom of the zipper first, using a standard zipper foot. Start approximately 2” (5cm) away from the bottom of the zip. Backstitch to begin and stitch towards the zip, finishing approximately 1/8” (3mm) away from the zip and 3/8” (1cm) past the stitching attaching the zipper onto the fabric. Backstitch to secure the seam. Then stitch the rest of the centre back seam from the hem up to the stitching below the zipper, use the normal foot on the sewing machine.

Tip: Attach the zipper tape onto the seam allowance at the bottom of the zip. Stitch backwards and forwards 3 to 4 times to secure the zip on both sides. Made to Sew Copen 34

Attach Zipper to Seam Allowance Made to Sew Copen 35

9. Sew the sleeve hem

If you are happy with the length of the sleeves we recommend finishing the prior to attaching the sleeves onto the garment. Alternatively you are welcome to wait until the sleeves have been attached, and you can try the garment on.

Press the hem allowance (3/4” (2cm)) towards the inside of the sleeve. The edge of the fabric should have been finished previously in Step 4.

Stitch approximately 5/8” (1.5cm) from the edge of the fabric. Keep backstitching to a minimum, start and stop sewing at the underarm seam to hide the backstitching.

Sleeve Hem Made to Sew Copen 36

Tip: You may wish to increase the stitch length slightly to achieve a neat hemming stitch.

Tip: If you are using a lightweight fabric you are welcome to complete a rolled hem. Alternatively hemming can be completed by hand using a herringbone catch stitch, should you prefer a blind hem finish. Made to Sew Copen 37

10. Insert the sleeve - tutorial

Complete 2 rows of easing stitch (stitch length 4mm) around the top of the sleeve cap, between the single and double notches. Ensure the stitches are within the seam allowance. We recommend completing the first row 1/2” (1.2cm) away from the edge of the fabric; the second row should sit between the previous row of stitching and the edge of the fabric. Leave long tails of thread at the start and end of the stitching and do not backstitch.

Easing Sleeve (first row) Made to Sew Copen 38

Easing Sleeve (second row)

Pull on 2 threads from the same side of the fabric (it doesn’t matter if they are from the wrong or right side) to gather the fabric, complete on both the front and back of the sleeve.

Front sleeve = single notch Back sleeve = double notch

Once the sleeve cap has been eased (gathered) position the sleeve into the armhole of the garment, right sides of the fabric together. Check you have the correct sleeve in the correct armhole (match notches).

Match the underarm seam and side seam together. Match the notches at the front and back of the sleeve, work to pin the underarm of the sleeve first.

Next match the notch at the top of the sleeve cap with the shoulder seam. Distribute the ease evenly around the sleeve, let out any easing if required so that the sleeve is the same size as the armhole. Pin the sleeve and armhole together. There is only a minimum amount of ease in the sleeve cap (approximately 1/2” (1.2cm)) therefore the sleeve should not look gathered on completion. Made to Sew Copen 39

Easing Sleeve

Inserting Sleeve Made to Sew Copen 40

Tip: Hold the underarm seam and side seam together with a Clover Fork Pin whilst sewing, this should ensure a perfect match.

Stitch on the sewing machine, start just before the underarm and work your way around the sleeve. Finish fraying edges of the fabric on the overlocker/serger. Alternatively use the overcast or zigzag stitch on the sewing machine.

Tip: If you are finishing the seam allowances on the overlocker/serger you will need to stitch onto and off of a circle. When finishing sew past the start of the stitching to secure the seam, leave a long tail and thread this back through the stitching using a needle.

Learn how to insert sleeves with our YouTube video.

Pinned Sleeve Made to Sew Copen 41

Attached Sleeve Made to Sew Copen 42

11. Attach the facing - tutorial

Position the facing onto the neck edge of the garment with the right sides of the facing and garment fabric together. Match shoulder seams together.

Open the zipper and match the centre back seam of the garment with the centre back seam of the facing.

Start at the centre back and stitch around the neckline following the seam allowance.

Pinned Facing Made to Sew Copen 43

Tip: Stitch over the top of the zip at the same level on both sides. Check that the centre back of the dress matches when the zip is fastened.

Pinning Centre Back Facing Made to Sew Copen 44

12. Stitch centre back facing - tutorial

Stitch down the centre back of the facing from the neck edge to the bottom of the facing. Aim to stitch down the middle of the zipper tape.

Centre Back Facing

Fold the zip tightly back onto itself in the direction of the shoulder seam. Stitch along the top of the zipper on the same stitching line completed in Step 11. Made to Sew Copen 45

Centre Back Facing (zipper)

Trim the corner of the garment, facing and zip to remove bulk.

Tip: For an easier method skip this step and finish the centre back of the facing by hand. Complete steps 13 and 14 to grade and trim the seam allowances followed by understitching. Fold the seam allowance of the facing under by (5/8” (1.5cm)) and position the folded edge of the facing along the centre of the zipper tape. Stitch in position by hand with an invisible slip stitch. Made to Sew Copen 46

13. Grade and clip seam allowances - tutorial

To reduce bulk grade and clip the seam allowances as required. (This will depend on the fabric you are working with).

As a general rule trim the facing to 1/8” (3mm) and the garment fabric to 1/4” (6mm). Clip into the curves, stagger the clips between the two seam allowances to avoid a weak seam.

Tip: When grading make the seam allowance closest to the exterior of the garment (when looking at the garment from the right side) the largest. Made to Sew Copen 47

14. Understitch the facing - tutorial

Working from the right side of the fabric stitch on top of the facing, approximately 1/8” (3mm) away from the seam that joins the facing to the neckline of the garment. Position all the seam allowances towards the facing so that they are caught in the stitching.

Tip: Start stitching as close to the centre back seam as possible (approximately 2” (5cm)). Stop stitching the same distance away from the centre back on the other side. If you are finishing the centre back of the facing by hand you can understitch closer to the zip (but not over it).

Finished Facing Made to Sew Copen 48

Press the facing towards the inside of the garment. From the facing side make sure that you can see a very small amount (1/8” (3mm)) of the exterior garment fabric, so that the facing is hidden from view on the right side of the garment.

Attach the facing onto the seam allowance of the shoulder seams. Stitch a (backwards and forwards) on the sewing machine, alternatively complete a figure of eight tack by hand.

Attach Facing to Shoulder Seams Made to Sew Copen 49

15. Sew the garment hem

Stitch the garment hem using your preferred method.

We recommend pressing the hem allowance (3/4” (2cm)) towards the inside of the garment. The edge of the fabric should have been finished in Step 5.

Stitch approximately 5/8” (1.5cm) from the edge of the fabric; keep the backstitching to a minimum.

Tip: You may wish to increase the stitch length slightly to achieve a neat hemming stitch.

Tip: If you are using a lightweight fabric you are welcome to complete a rolled hem. Alternatively hemming can be completed by hand using a herringbone catch stitch, should you prefer a blind hem finish. Made to Sew Copen 50

Sewing Garment Hem Made to Sew Copen 51

16. Stitch hook and eye (optional) - tutorial

If required stitch a hook and eye onto the back neck above the zipper. Use a stitch for extra strength.

Follow our YouTube tutorial for a detailed ‘how to’. Made to Sew Copen 52

Finished

Congratulations, you have finished making Copen. We hope you have enjoyed the process and learned some new techniques along the way.

Get in touch if you have any questions or simply want to share your new make.

Aneka wears Copen in size 1, waist darts have not been sewn. Her measurements: bust 34” (86.5cm), waist 26” (66cm), hip 37” (94cm), height 5ft 7” (170.18cm). Made to Sew Copen 53 www.madetosew.com [email protected]

Copen Pattern - Facebook Group

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The contents of this pattern including instructions, photos, diagrams and videos are protected by copyright and belong exclusively to Made to Sew. This pattern is for personal use only and no part of this pattern may be reproduced, transmitted or shared in any form. Garments made from this pattern and sold commercially are prohibited. Copyright © 2017 Made to Sew. All rights reserved.