Refuge Notebook • Vol. 7, No. 41 • November 4, 2005

A robin by any other name… by Doug Newbould

My wife being at least half-Irish by blood and by ple. virtue of surviving a quarter-century of marriage to Now I have to say my intent is not to narrate our me is probably eligible for sainthood or her own real- journey ad nauseam, but to share a few observations ity show, but was willing to settle for a trip to about the land we traveled and about the flora and to commemorate our 25th anniversary. Luckily, she . If you want ad nauseam, you’ll have to talk to saw fit to drag me along. me or my lovely Irish wife. Either of us could go on We planned our trip for the last two weeks of and on—about Irish history, our ancestry, the weather, September, reasoning that most of the tourists would the roads, the prices, the B&B’s, and O’ the music! be long gone and we could enjoy the emerald isle in Consider yourself forewarned. relative peace and quietude. As with many assump- If you go to Ireland with the intent to find the wild tions, this one turned out to be full of blarney. We places and observe the life there, you’ll need detailed were soon to discover that solitude, even in a rural and maps and a good guidebook. One book we found use- in some places a rugged land, is a precious commodity. ful was, Complete Irish Wildlife, by Paul Sterry [Harper According to our gracious and friendly hosts, Ire- Collins Publishers, Ltd. 2004]. This book is a compre- land’s economy and its tourism are booming, despite hensive identification guide to the fauna and flora of the high cost of transportation fuel. We were told Ireland, and we used it every day. this new-found prosperity is either due to the success Since we did not have the time or the inclination of the European Union, or because of former Presi- to visit Ireland in its entirety, I will not try to describe dent Bill Clinton, or because of the virtues of Guinness the whole. But there are a few factoids about the land Stout (or some combination thereof). Don’t ask me to I would like to share. Ireland is an island encompass- explain. ing about 32,500 square miles or just under 21 mil- Now before I get too far into this tale, I must say lion acres. To make a comparison with Alaska—two of that I am planning to relate this story back to the Kenai the sixteen National Wildlife Refuges in Alaska (Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, or at least to Alaska. So, and Yukon Delta), are each nearly equal in size to Ire- please bear with me. And since there are said to be land. Lands within the Kenai Peninsula Borough cover more than 40 million Americans with Irish blood in about 15,700 square miles, roughly half the landmass their veins, I am assuming there is someone still read- of Ireland. ing this. And no, I did not kiss the Blarney Stone. Ireland’s natural history shares some similarities So, we began our journey together in Seattle, hav- with that of the Kenai Peninsula. As the last great ing each spent several days away from Alaska on northern polar ice cap began to recede and sea levels separate business trips. We flew to Shannon, the rose about 15,000 years ago, Ireland was a sub-arctic southwestern-most international jetport in Ireland, tundra landscape, surrounded by mountain glaciers. via JFK and Heathrow. Having spoken to numer- Grasslands dominated the island about 13,000 years ous friends about Ireland prior to our trip and study- ago and the land-bridge between Ireland and Britain ing various tourist information sources, we decided to disappeared about a thousand years later. spend as much time as we wanted visiting the south The first people arrived about 9,000 years ago and western counties of Cork, Kerry, Clare, Galway when Ireland was dominated by forests. Farming be- and Mayo. gan about 6,000 years ago. As the human population We went purposely without an itinerary so we increased, the demand for wood products and the need could take a leisurely pace and optimize rather than to grow food resulted in the nearly complete deforesta- maximize our experience. Traveling by rental car tion of the island. Today there are only a few remnant through these rural counties, we thought we could get old-growth forests of sessile oak (Quercus petraea), off the “beaten path” to view the countryside, witness and scattered forest reserve plantations dominated by the wildlife, find the wild places and meet the real peo- Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), Norway spruce, European

74 USFWS Kenai National Wildlife Refuge Refuge Notebook • Vol. 7, No. 41 • November 4, 2005 larch and introduced North American conifers such as viduals turn white in winter, retaining black tip to tail. Douglas fir, Sitka spruce and western hemlock. Sometimes located by pinpointing anguished squeals Other familiar trees we saw in mixed hardwood- of rabbit prey, a favourite food. Found throughout Ire- conifer forests included aspen, poplar, birch alder and land.” In my book, if it looks like a weasel, walks like willow. Perhaps the most unusual and culturally sig- a weasel and smells like a weasel, it’s a weasel! nificant tree we encountered was the yew (Taxus bac- As for the numerous on the island, we cata). Yews are common throughout Ireland as sin- saw many songbirds and shorebirds we had not seen gle ornamentals, and can be found growing still in the before. There were grey herons (Ardea cinerea), oyster- inner courtyards of many of the ruined abbeys and catchers (Haematopus ostralegus), mute swans (Cygnus friaries, where the trees held a place of honor. The olor), pied wagtails (Motacilla alba ssp. yarellii) and unique fruit of the yew is a single seed surrounded by hooded crows (Corvus corone ssp. cornix). We saw a crimson fleshy, drupe-like aril. The yew has world- many familiar as well, including dunlins, plovers, wide importance as a source of the compound—taxol, sandpipers and curlews. which is used to treat ovarian cancer. One little songbird in particular, stood out from the The western side of Ireland is mountainous with rest. About 14 centimeters long, it had a bittersweet summits reaching 1,000 meters above sea level. While orange face and breast, grey shoulders and crown, and the glaciers have all disappeared, the rugged landscape brownish streaked back and wings. When we looked bears witness to their passing. The jagged coastline up this striking little bird we were surprised to learn it of western Ireland is dominated by fjord-like bays and was a robin (Erithacus rubecula). “No,” I said, “That’s rocky landscapes. The mountains, while not that tall not a robin. Robins are thrushes and at least twice as are impressively steep and difficult to traverse. large as this little guy.” Again, I was mistaken. Atlantic storms frequently lash the western coast- After thinking about it for a minute, I realized the line, bringing rain and strong winds to the mountains, error in my ways. This little songbird had likely been especially in the autumn, as we were so fortunate to christened, ‘Robin’ long before the American robin experience firsthand. The cool, moist coastal climate was discovered. What was more likely was that the sustains the moors, fens and bogs that dominate the American bird had been named by someone familiar uncultivated parts of western Ireland. with the European bird’s orange breast. I began to lose As for the fauna, Ireland has about 425 bird species, my American pride and prejudice somewhat. Who am 50 marine and land , three and I to say a is not a stoat! The confusion caused by one land ( viviparous lizard). There are 27 fresh- the use of common names is why scientists use Latin water fish species in Ireland and a rich marine ecosys- nomenclature to differentiate between species. tem that produces abundant seafood, which we sam- Our trip to Ireland was wonderful. We truly en- pled frequently. joyed the landscapes, the wildlife, the culture and the Of the 22 land mammals, 13 were introduced by people. We want to go back again. But, as always, man. We saw fallow deer (Dama dama), fox (Vulpes we were happy to get back home to Alaska and the vulpes) and the Irish (Lepus timidus Kenai. Reading about and seeing firsthand how the hibernicus). We also saw a stoat (Mustela erminea). wild places, the flora and had been When I spotted the critter, we were driving across the changed by its inhabitants over the centuries, makes Burren, an 800 square-kilometer exposed limestone me appreciate the wild places of Alaska: the parks, the plateau in counties Clare and Galway. I exclaimed to forests and the wildlife refuges. Perhaps we can avoid Denise, “There’s a weasel!” some of the environmental mistakes made by other When she referred to the guidebook, she said I was cultures and nurture those remaining wild places and mistaken. She read the following description to me: the diversity of life they contain. “Confusingly, often referred to as a ‘Weasel.’ Note the Doug Newbould has been the Fire Management Of- long, sinuous body and the distinctive black tip to tail. ficer at the Kenai National Wildlife Refuge since 1999. Coat colour orange-brown above with clear demarca- Previous Refuge Notebook columns can be viewed on the tion from white underparts. Some N (northern) indi- Web at http://www.fws.gov/refuge/kenai/.

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