INSIDE: New Rome Hotel 6 Summer Music Guide 7 New U.S.–Italy Flights 7 Dining in Rome’s Ghetto 8 www.flickr.com/photos/bren/6632504/ www.flickr.com/photos/antmoose/29549354/ dream of TOURING ROME’S JEWISH GHETTO ® I f you are wandering through Rome’s Ghetto neighborhood and see a slender, red-haired American leading a group of enthralled visitors, you’ve spotted Roy Doliner, one of the leading experts on Rome’s Jewish culture and history. Author, award- Volume 7, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2008 winning playwright and actor by ITALY trade, Doliner is by passion an histo- The Dream Interview: rian, interpreter and Talmud instructor. SECRETS OF THE SISTINE CHAPEL As I recently discovered firsthand when I joined a tour for the magine that the world’s most asked Michelangelo, whose great pas- American Embassy, Doliner’s back- I celebrated fresco, studied and sion was sculpture, to craft that Pope’s ground and unique skills make him analyzed for hundreds of years, tomb, which would be set in the center an engaging guide. Along with yields hidden messages, undiscovered of St. Peter’s Basilica. However, after he Canadian-born David Walden, for five centuries. Consider one arrived, he was reassigned to Doliner founded Rome for Jews, a cul- of Catholicism’s most revered repaint the ceiling of the tural association that offers seven chapels, the very symbol of the Sistine Chapel. Michelangelo tours of the city (including one based Vatican itself, is filled with rep- argued with Pope Julius and on Doliner’s new book The Sistine resentations of Jewish doctrine even tried to run away from Secrets). and messages of reconciliation Rome, only to be brought back between the faiths. These are the to finish the assignment. Despite constant threats throughout provocative contentions of the Scholars have long thought history, Rome’s Jewish community new book The Sistine Secrets: that the artist hid messages of remains strong. And, despite its dark Michelangelo’s Hidden Messages in protest against the Pope in his past, the Ghetto is one of Rome’s the Heart of the Vatican (HarperOne, great painting. The discoveries in this most charming neighborhoods. Our $26.95) by Roy Doliner and Rabbi new book, however, go beyond the tour begins outside the Great Benjamin Blech. The authors believe insults identified by art historians to Synagogue as Doliner paints a pic- that Michelangelo drew heavily on the date. Here are some of the secrets ture of the complicated,,intertwined Jewish doctrine of Kabbalah and Doliner and Blech have revealed: history of the city and its Jewish pop- Jewish culture in designing the Sistine ulation. Chapel. • Pope Julius commissioned Michelangelo to paint a series of portraits of Jesus and Rome has the world’s oldest uninter- The great artist came to the Vatican in the Apostles on the Sistine ceiling; in rupted Jewish community, dating 1503 at the behest of Pope Julius II who continued on page 2 continued on page 8 Four million people visit the Sistine Chapel yearly. Secrets of the Sistine Chapel continued from page 1

“…WE NEED TO AT LEAST ACKNOWLEDGE THE REMARKABLE INFLUENCE, ESPECIALLY ON MICHELANGELO, OF THE HERMETIC AND ESOTERIC TRADITIONS OF JEWISH KABBALAH.”

fact, it is the Old Testament heroes and RD: The Rabbi and I are both con- heroines who play starring roles on the vinced that this book was “bashert,” ceiling. which is Yiddish for “meant to be.” Rabbi Blech and I met when Pope John • In the Original Sin panel, Michelangelo Paul II was gravely ill and did some- painted the Forbidden Tree of knowledge thing very unusual. Normally, when a not as an apple tree, but rather as a fig Pope realizes he is dying, he receives a tree, as written in the Talmud. blessing from “big shots” in his reli- gion. This Pope, in addition to his own • Over the altar where Mary was church, asked 160 of the world’s top supposed to be, he placed the Jewish Sistine Secrets was the subject of an rabbis and cantors to come to Rome to prophet Jonah, whose hands and legs ABC News 20/20 special earlier this bless him in a private audience. Rabbi form two Hebrew letters, sending a month. Dream of Italy contributor Blech was part of that group and, in message of religious tolerance to all Frances Kidd sat down with co-author addition, was selected to be one of those being oppressed. Roy Doliner (a tour guide and Jewish three rabbis who participated in the 2 culture and history expert) to discuss “laying on of hands” for the Pope. In his introduction to The Sistine his work: Secrets, Professor Enrico Bruschini, DOI: Was this seen as unusual at the author, renowned expert on the Sistine DOI: First, congratulations on your new time? Chapel and Vatican Museums, and the book. It looks like this will be getting a lot Official Art Historian of the American of attention in the coming weeks. RD: This Pope did a lot of things in his Embassy in Rome writes, “What has life that were seen as unusual. For hardly ever been stressed before is an RD: That’s right. The book was example, he was the first Pope to visit idea that Blech and Doliner demon- released 500 years to the week that the Synagogue in Rome and he went to strate with brilliant insight. Michelangelo started working on the Wailing Wall [in Israel] and put a While the Renaissance the [Sistine Chapel] ceiling. private prayer in the wall. I think that, was certainly influenced because he grew up around a lot of by the ancient Greek DOI: I guess we can assume Jews in his little village outside and Roman myths, we the release date is not an Krakow, Poland, they were not these need to at last acknowl- accident? strange, infidel beings to him…they edge the remarkable were his friends and neighbors. So, for influence, especially on RD: The fact that it’s coming him it was quite normal. Michelangelo, of the out this year is a happy hermetic and esoteric accident. I picked May 10th DOI: And how did you get involved with traditions of the Jewish as the formal release date of this esteemed group? Kabbalah.” [Note: the book. The actual date Bruschini was profiled in Michelangelo started working RD: I was called in to serve as a special the April 2005 issue of on the ceiling was May 10, 1508, so docent for this group while they were Dream of Italy.] it’s exactly 500 years to the day. in Rome. The Vatican had assigned one of their top experts to be the guide for The book and its fascinating assertions DOI: Can you tell us first how this book the group, to take them privately into have gained much media attention. The came about? the Sistine before it opened to the pub- “I work out of love for God and put lic. This guy is an excellent guide but n’t share them with many He said, “I’m a writer; do he just had the wrong crowd that day. people because I was very you want to work togeth- He only knew what the church had skeptical from the begin- er?” And that night a told him to say and he couldn’t answer ning but after seeing dinner was arranged so the Rabbi’s questions about anything hundreds and hundreds of the two of us could sit not connected with the church. I was things in Michelangelo’s next to each other at the there but I put myself in the back on work and researching his table; we were better purpose because I didn’t want to say life, I figured out that these introduced. So, anyway, anything; I didn’t want to step on weren’t accidents; this was we decided we would anybody’s toes. Anyway, I said, “Do all planned. write together. And you mind if I answer?” He graciously that’s how it started; it agreed so I started answering ques- DOI: So you weren’t really look- was all meant to be. tions, and pretty soon I ended up ing for anything? You just started involuntarily taking everybody around noticing similarities to your culture? DOI: Sounds like it certainly was. So, did and showing them some of the secrets you start right away? How long did it take that I had discovered. RD: It’s like if you walked into some from the start? temple in the heart of Africa or India DOI: So you had already seen and studied where no American had ever been RD: We wrote a proposal with which some of the secrets in the book? before and you see representations of we got an agent, who also felt this Betsy Ross sewing the stars and stripes book was meant to be. But we got over RD: I have spent a lot of time in the or George Washington crossing the 40 rejections to the initial proposal. Sistine Chapel over the years…in fact, Delaware or a bearded guy in a very continued on page 4 it turns out, that I’m the first religious high stove pipe hat, you’d say, “some- Jew to spend a lot of time, many, many body in here knew something about dream of 3 visits for many years, in the Sistine my culture.” Somebody is trying to put ® Chapel and the clues were there just things from my culture in this strange waiting for somebody to understand sanctuary. And that’s what happened ITALY them. You know I started off telling with me. I saw stuff from my culture people, “it’s funny, isn’t it, that almost and my heritage all over his works. Kathleen A. McCabe looks like it’s a Jewish symbol.” I did- Editor and Publisher DOI: So, did you tell some of the stories to Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe this group and they sort of sparked with Editorial Assistant: Justine Gregory Rabbi Blech or how did the two of you get Design: Leaird Designs together on this? www.leaird-designs.com Dream of Italy, the subscription newsletter covering RD: Well, Rabbi Blech comes up to me, Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a year. Delivery by mail is $89 per year in the United States and he’s very modest, and he says, “I write $99 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable a little bit. [He has actually had a num- PDF) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online access to over 50 back issues and regular e-mail updates. ber of books published.] Have you Doliner Three ways to subscribe: thought of writing a book?” I said, 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, “some year, some day down the line.” Washington, DC, 20016 Blech 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-237-0657 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, Mastercard and American Express accepted) “YOU KNOW I STARTED TELLING PEOPLE, Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] Advertising opportunities are available. ‘IT’S FUNNY, ISN’T IT, THAT ALMOST E-mail: [email protected] Copyright © 2008 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights LOOKS LIKE A JEWISH SYMBOL’”. Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide information that is accurate and reliable; however, Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com all my hope in Him.” —Michelangelo Secrets of the Sistine Chapel continued from page 3

“THE BOOK IS SAYING THAT THE CHURCH NOW, 500 YEARS LATER, IS CATCHING UP WITH WHAT MICHELANGELO WAS PUTTING ON THEIR WALLS FIVE CENTURIES EARLIER.”

Some publishers thought we were try- DOI: Do you think the Vatican will look for all their favorite secrets. That’s ing to rip off Dan Brown [author of The consider this an affront? going to take more than five or 10 min- Davinci Code]; many were quite upset utes and they’re going to be that we refused to make this into a RD: If they can understand spending a lot more time in novel. We ended up having to rewrite that Michelangelo was real- the chapel; that’s not going the proposal a couple of times, almost ly angry with the church to be pleasing, just for to make it like lawyers preparing a brief and the pope five centuries logistics. because people were so resistant to the ago, then we’re okay. The idea. But our proposal was backed up book is not intended to be DOI: Did you have a favorite by a great deal of scholarly evidence. an insult to the current secret you can even give me a Without making it become dry as dust, pope or the current church. hint about and then we can go it had to be totally believable; but also In the book, we quote at find it in the book? Or was we had to make it really accessible, fun. length from John Paul II; there something that really 4 we sing the praises of John Moses by Michelangelo shouted out to you out of all DOI: I can see how these ideas could be XXIII. these things that you found? uncomfortable for some people. The book is saying that the church RD: There are so many favorite secrets RD: Very, very uncomfortable for now, 500 years later, is catching up to in there. I’ll tell you what Prof. some people. what Michelangelo was putting on Bruschini says is the thing that put him their walls five centuries earlier. over the edge; when he knew our story DOI: So, I’m curious, does the So, we’re saying it’s a message was absolutely true. Michelangelo put Vatican know about this yet? that took 500 years to arrive two guys who are obviously Jewish Are we expecting a reaction? but that the church is catch- over Jesus’ shoulder in the inner circle ing up with Michelangelo’s of the elect, blessed souls in Heaven. RD: Nobody ever knows vision of its future. So, if One has his finger pointed upwards to what the Vatican knows they see it in that light, Heaven just as Noah does on the ceil- or doesn’t know. they could be very happy ing saying that they believe in one with the book. If they see it God. They are dressed in the caps of DOI: Are we concerned as offensive because it’s shame that the Church imposed on the about that? talking about some dark Jews as a punishment for being Jewish spots on the church’s history in Michelangelo’s lifetime. One has a RD: We’ll find out, we’ll find five centuries ago, they’re not hat that has two points on it that looks out. I think word is out among going to like the book. like it’s covering up devil horns and the staff of the museum; whether the other has a yellow cap. Yet, here that has filtered through to the hierar- One thing I know will not be happy- they are in heaven hovering over Jesus chy, I don’t know. I do know that when making for the church or the Vatican and an angel is pointing them out. And they filmed the documentary, there Museum. The average visit to the they are indisputably Jewish. This is had to be one of their people to take chapel is somewhere between five to against church teachings; totally in the the ABC crew in and I was excluded. 15 minutes, max. Now, we anticipate face of the teaching of the Catholic people will be carrying the book in to Church and the Vatican in the 1500s, “A true artist paints with his brains and what Michelangelo does in the Last [Note from The Sistine Secrets: it was the equivalent of an Ivy League Judgment of Jesus on the altar wall. “Michelangelo chose a rabbinical inter- education today. ] pretation of the biblical story over the DOI: As you began to study the things traditional Christian one: In the DOI: In addition, I guess you’ve you found, did you discover other sources Talmud, one learns that God been thinking about this for a of documentation? Had others also had never presents a difficulty long time, seeing these these thoughts? unless he has already images; was there anything created its solution. They that was a surprise to you RD: There’s a lot of documentation propose the Tree of as you started actually where people say “there’s stuff up Knowledge is a fig tree, formalizing this and there we don’t understand.” This is the rather than the apple tree researching a book? first time that there is a truly organic that is usually portrayed. explanation of these very strange sym- The immediate result of RD: We were constantly bols all over the frescoes of the Sistine Adam and Eve’s trans- surprised by what we Chapel. gression was awareness of found out. And more their own nudity, and the secrets continue to be On the ABC special, I don’t know if Bible teaches that they covered revealed. One that is not in the it will make it on to the final cut [it themselves with fig leaves. book because it became known after didn’t], but at one point, I was asked, According to the Talmud, a compas- the book was printed… Recently, the “I don’t see anything obscene, I don’t sionate God had provided the cure for bodies of two of Michelangelo’s private see the angels making obscene gestures the consequences of the sin from the tutors in the palace of the de’ Medici at a representation of Pope Julius II; same object that had caused it.”] family were exhumed. We had written I think that’s just your imagination.” about these tutors and the assumption I said, “well, then you’re contradicting DOI: Do we know why Michelangelo was that they were early victims of the 5 the Catholic Church itself.” In the interested in these symbols, these messages, syphilis outbreak in Florence in the end Council of Trent in 1534, all the top even in the Kabbalah? of the 1400s. But after doing forensic honchos in the Catholic faith took out a analysis of their hair and bones, it was lot of very precious time to discuss, RD: It’s all in the book…He got the discovered massive amounts of arsenic and formally con- best private educa- in their remains. As soon as Lorenzo de’ demn, the obscene tion available in Medici died, these two men died within gestures and the Western Europe. a very short time of each other. So, obscenities and He was informally probably Savonarola or other people heresies that adopted by a from the church did away with them Michelangelo put certain family in because they were teaching too much inside the Sistine Florence called the Judaism to Christians. Chapel. So, I told www.flickr.com/photos/bren/6572715/ Credit: de’ Medicis. He grew ABC, “if you don’t believe me, maybe up with their kids as a teenager, he ate DOI: You mentioned earlier that visitors you’ll believe the Catholic Church.” at the table with the richest, most to the Sistine Chapel may be spending a privileged children in Europe and longer time in there looking for these, or Ross King, the author of Michelangelo had their same private tutors their own secrets. Are you going to do a and the Pope’s Ceiling, talks about the special customized tour around this? obscene gestures to the Pope that are [Living and studying with the children up there on the ceiling. He also gave of the de’ Medici family, Michelangelo RD: The cultural association (see me other clues, including pointing out was exposed to the leading thinkers “Touring Rome’s Jewish Ghetto” on that the tree up there with the forbid- and philosophers of the day. He stud- page one) has already been conducting den fruit is a fig tree, not an apple tree. ied Plato and secular humanism; he these tours for two or three months. So, Ross King mentions it but for him, also studied Judaism, ideas that he We are the only authorized Sistine not having a Jewish background, he would not have been familiar with if Secrets tours.

wouldn’t know the significance of the he had been taught by masters of See Doliner’s website, www.roydoliner.com, fig tree. Renaissance thinking. It has been said for a new Sistine secret every month. not with his hands.” —Michelangelo News, Tips, Deals

The Price is Right at Rome’s Villa Laetitia

f you had 150 euros to spend in Rome’s was a good size, with a small adjacent room to matter, I slept like a baby that night. I Fendi store, what could you get? Not housing an armoire and a pint-sized table and Surrounded by large trees and set back from much. That’s not enough to even think about chairs. Since a crib or small bed could fit in the road, this is a quiet and peaceful place to buying a Fendi belt. That’s why I was intrigued here, this would be a good suite for a young stay. to learn that a new hotel in Rome opened by family. Since each room has its own unique décor a member of the vaunted fashion family was and theme, prospective guests should consult charging just 150 euros per night. (In the few The villa overlooks the photos on the Web site to survey the weeks since I visited however, that rate has the Tiber on the options. Many of the rooms incorporate been raised to 180 euros.) Lungotevere delle Armi, Liberty and modernist elements favored by Villa Laetitia is the creation of Anna Fendi about a 15-minute walk Armando Brasini. The furniture varies widely Venturini, one of the five Fendi sisters who and was selected on Fendi buying trips at flea inherited the company from their founder across the river from markets all over the world. The senior suite parents. Venturini and her daughters (for the the Piazza del Popolo. “Karl” features black and white-style furnish- fashionistas out there, daughter Silvia is cred- ing reminiscent of Vienna in the 1920s and ited with inventing the famous Baguette bag) I adored the functional, compact kitchen in the designs of Karl Lagerfeld (who has transformed the servant’s quarters of a 1911 the corner. Every room has its own small designed for Fendi) grace the walls. villa by Armando Brasini into a collection of kitchen, so the hotel does not offer daily I would equate my visit with a stay in my 6 15 rooms and suites. breakfast. After spending days in hotels eccentric aunt’s guest house. That atmos- where either wireless Internet service was The villa overlooks the Tiber on the phere is warm but you are left on your own unavailable or it wasn’t working properly, I Lungotevere delle Armi, about a 15-minute (you don’t even have to pass reception if you was happy to hop on to the bed with my lap- walk across the river from the Piazza del stay in one of the garden suites). The décor is top and utilize the free Wi-Fi. I was less Popolo. When I entered the gates, I immedi- fun and entertaining. Now that word is out enthused by the bed itself. I knew the bed ately saw the construction taking place on about Villa Laetitia — it was just named to frame was from the 1960s but was the the main villa (where 15 more suites and a Conde Nast Traveler’s “Hot List 2008” — any- uneven mattress that old too? It didn’t seem spa will open early in 2009). I followed a one who wants to book one of the afford- gravel driveway to the back garden, where I able double rooms here should reserve early. was surprised to see sheets hanging on a line For some, the competitive price of the and the laundry room in full view. I think the rooms will be the main draw and worth the name Fendi made me assume I would be fact that Laetitia’s location is slightly out of walking into a palace, but I soon realized that the way. Others who are inspired by design though filled with elegant touches, the goal of will be happy to pay more for one of Villa Laetitia is to truly function as a casual Laetitia’s incredible senior suites. residenza or home-away-from-home. As such, I was given my own personal code to open the front gate so I could come and The Details go at any hour. Villa Laetitia Roma The only room available during my Lungotevere delle Armi, 22/23 stay was the “Green Suite,” which, (39) 06 3226776 you guessed it, is filled with funky www.villalaetitia.com green décor such as modern Rates: Double rooms start at 180 Casamania tables and two 1960s euros per night; suites range from Tobia Scarpa green steel twin beds 220 to 350 euros per night. pushed together. The main room Plans are underway to make Venice’s Acca and Events G Need a Ride? Your Men in Tuscany

Some people love to drive in Italy and friendly service. They’re generally others would rather do anything but excited to meet new people and share get behind the wheel here. Luckily, for their thoughts on life in Tuscany. Both those staying in Tuscany especially the live in Monte Amiata and that’s where Val d’Orcia area, brothers Giorgio and Paolo teaches skiing during the winter NEW FLIGHTS BETWEEN Paolo Forti are at your service. Through (who knew you could ski in Tuscany?) Amiata Viaggi e Turismo the identical Paolo Forti Although rates may change, a one-way CHICAGO, BOSTON AND MILAN twins provide transfer service with a fleet of transfer from Rome airport to Val d’Orcia The independently owned Italian airline Air One impeccably clean sedans and mini-vans. (about a 2.5-hour trip) is 200 euros. The same is moving into the American market, introduc- trip from Florence’s airport is about 160 euros. While the price of transfers (like the price of ing the only non-stop flights Boston, Chicago For more information, call (39) 0577 778810 gas) has seemed to skyrocket over the past and Milan. The Milan-Boston flights commence or visit www.amiataviaggi.it year or two, the Fortis offer good prices and June 14, with service daily except Tuesday and Thursday. The Milan-Chicago flights start June CHEAT SHEET: 21 and will fly every day except Wednesday. Air Italy’s Summer Music Festivals One offers connections from Milan to Athens, Bari, Brussels, Lamezia Terme, Naples, Palermo, EVENT DATES CONTACTS HIGHLIGHTS Rome and Thessaloniki. June 20 to (39) 045 8005151 Aida, Carmen, Rigoletto, Arena di Verona: Air One is offering a special airfare of $491 on 86th Annual Opera August 31, 2008 www.arena.it Nabucco and Tosca 7 Festival performed in an ancient its new transatlantic flights to Milan with taxes Roman amphitheater. and fees of an additional $308. These non- refundable fares must be Festival dei Due June 27 to July 13, 2008 (39) 0743 218613 This Umbrian town trans- booked by June 13 and Mondi (Spoleto) www.spoletofestival.it forms into a showcase for classical music, jazz, opera, require a 14-day advance pur- as well as other art forms. chase with a Saturday overnight. They’re non- changeable and are good during travel through 54th Annual Puccini June 15 to August 23, 2008 (39) 0584 353922 This year marks the Festival (Tuscany) www.puccinifestival.it opening of a new amphi- 2008 except for August. To book, call (888) 935- theater and Puccini 9247 or visit www.flyairone.it cultural park. 1 € = $1.57 at press time Amalfi Coast June 30 to July 28, 2008 (301) 587-6189 Concerts in Vietri Sul Mare Music Festival www.musicalstudies.com and surrounding towns. Masters classes for WHERE TO EAT musicians. IN ROME’S GHETTO Umbria Jazz (Perugia) July 11 to 20, 2008 (39) 075 5732432 Considered one of the www.umbriajazz.com best jazz festivals in Here are two of Roy’s favorite restaurants: Europe. LA TAVERNA DEL GHETTO Via Del Portico d’Ottavia, 8 Rossini Opera Festival August 9 to 23, 2008 (39) 0721 3800294 The composer’s hometown (39) 06 68809771 (Pesaro) www.rossinioperafestival.it on the Italian Rivieria hosts www.latavernadelghetto.com performances of the best of his work. Open daily for lunch (noon-3pm) and dinner (6:30- 11:00 pm) Closed Friday night. International Pescara July 15 to 20, 2008 (39) 085 6920057 Duke Ellington, Ella Jazz Festival www.pescarajazz.com Fitzgerald and Sarah YOTVATA KOSHER RESTAURANT Vaughn have all performed at this seaside festival Piazza Cenci, 70 (off Via Arenula) (39) 06 68134481 Lucca Summer Festival July 6 to 27, 2008 (39) 0584 46477 Sheryl Crow, Alicia Keys, www.yotvata.it www.summer-festival.com Chicago, Leonard Cohen, Erykah Badu and Mick Open daily for lunch (12:30-3:00 pm) Hucknall are set to perform. and dinner (7:00-11:00pm) Closed Friday night and Saturday for lunch. demia Bridge a permanent, stone structure. Jewish Ghetto Tours continued from page 1 FOR IDEAS ON WHERE TO EAT, SEE PAGE 7

back 23 centuries. The population of the original Ghetto. It was designed attending their own services. expanded when Titus brought slaves to by Italian architects because, at that Consistent efforts to convert the com- the city after the destruction of the time, there were no licensed Jewish munity to Christianity failed, partly Temple of Jerusalem; and, by the architects living in Rome. because Jewish parents would take Middle Ages, the community con- wax from the Sabbath candles and tained scholars and men The internal layout is a warm it in their hands. When they of science and culture. slightly elongated Greek were forced to listen to the proselytiz- However, in the mid-16th THE DETAILS cross, oriented towards ing, they secretly put the wax in their century, a Papal ruling the east, and a translu- ears and those of their children. Roy Doliner and David Walden confined Roman Jews to Rome for Jews cent aluminum dome one area. The citizens (39) 339 7059603. tops the entire building. In the fall of 1943, Jews throughout the were allowed out to work www.romeforjews.com Before we enter, our city were rounded up and sent to during the day but Contact for individual guide warns us that since extermination camps. A plaque near locked inside the walls at tour pricing. the congregations had the Portico d’Ottavia (just behind the night. The Ghetto was previously not been Synogogue) commemorates the terrible opened up in 1879 when allowed to use gold or event. Many Romans, however, Rome was united with other adornments, we attempted — passively and actively — Italy, but was soon demol- might think they had to resist the deportation of the Jews. ished due to health overcompensated with concerns and because it this interior. Doliner ends our three hours together was seen as a symbol of by recounting one of many stories of abasement. Though it was In fact, the décor of how Romans saved the lives and prop- rebuilt, Italy’s Fascist gov- paintings, geometric and erty of their Jewish neighbors during 8 ernment and World War II brought floral designs and stained glass win- these persecutions. Doctors in the hos- further complications for Rome’s Jews. dows is beautiful. But Doliner points to pital on the Isola Tiburtina (Tiber Island, a sobering feature: the first few rows in adjacent to the Ghetto) “quarantined” Doliner leads us into the Jewish the sanctuary are reserved for Rome’s a number of Jewish residents with a Museum (Museo Erbraico), opened in Holocaust survivors; almost 2,100 Jews mysterious (and fictional) disease until 1960. As we look over part of the large were taken from Rome by the Germans left and Rome collection of precious textiles from dif- the Nazis and only 16 sur- was safe again. ferent periods in history, he points out vived. the Torah covers — many laced with Yet even the end of a world gold thread — which were often the As we move back into the war did not signal an end for temple’s only ornament. streets of the Ghetto, it is the challenges to those living still possible to get a sense and working in the Ghetto. The museum also houses treasures of what it must have been like for The challenges continued in 1982, from the Cinque Scole, the original five thousands of people to live in four when the Synagogue was bombed by synagogues (scole) in the Ghetto, hon- cramped medieval blocks. As the terrorists, resulting in the ongoing oring various rites and traditions. Only streets were narrow, the residents built presence of police guards. The muse- the Spanish Synagogue remains, now upwards, adding stories to the build- um exhibits a prayer book riddled with restored, it is part of the museum. ings and increasing the sense of bullet holes from this attack. Doliner takes us in to give us a sense of density of this confined space.. In the the atmosphere of the ancient syna- early years, 6,000 lived in an area that Today, Via Del Portico d’Ottavia, the gogues. could only house 2,000 comfortably. heart of the Ghetto, is a thriving street. Two generations later, 17,000 people As we walk, Doliner greets people he After viewing other items in the collec- were living in that same space, con- knows. It remains that kind of neigh- tion, including samples of the work of stantly subjected to harassment. borhood — where people gather to the 17th and 18th century Roman sil- exchange news or just be among versmiths, historical photographs and Doliner explains how Ghetto residents friends in a resilient community of cul- a video presentation, we go upstairs to were forced to listen, often at gun- ture and faith. the Great Temple, built in 1904 on part point, to Christian sermons after —Frances Kidd Half of Italy 35,000 Jews live in Rome.