FOUR WHEELS MOVE YOUR BODY, TWO WHEELS MOVE YOUR SOUL Supported by:

This brochure is produced with the support of the Regional Youth Cooperation Office (RYCO) and United Nations Peacebuilding Fund (UNPBF). Its content is the sole responsibility of Center for environment and its partners and does not necessarily present the views of RYCO and/or UNPBF.

This brochure was produced by the Center for environment, Ulice za bicikliste, Bajkultura, Biciklo.me and GO2 with financial support from the Western Balkans Fund (WBF). The content and/or views expressed in this brochure are the sole responsibility of the Center for environment, Ulice za bicikliste, Bajkultura, Biciklo. me and GO2 and do not represent the views of the WBF nor its Contracting Parties. INTRODUCTION

Dear reader,

In front of you is a brochure of essays created during four bicycle tours in the Western Balkans region during the project “From sustainable development to sustainable peace”, in the period September - October 2020. Twenty participants from Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Serbia cycled over 1,000 kilometers and visited regions in Western Balkans with ethnically mixed populations. Five prominent bicycle organizations from the region joined forces with an idea to use their experi- ence in promoting sustainable development and mobility. We desired to connect people in the region to be able to meet and communicate together. We decided to combine cycling, as a new method of connecting people with intercultural dialogue and reconciliation. The main goal of the project was enhancing and promoting intercultural dialogue and sustainable peace in the Western Balkans through raising awareness on sustainable development and mobility, making young people more knowledgeable, aware, and mindful. Originally planned as one big cycling tour that would connect Belgrade, Sabac, Brcko, Banja Luka, Zenica, Sarajevo, Foca, Niksic, Podgorica, Ulcinj, and Shkodra, and last 14 days, due to the coronavirus pandemic, had to be designed so that participants stay and implement the tour in their societies. Although the methodology and the concept of the tours changed, the essence has remained the same - connecting the people in the Western Balkans, promoting sustainable devel- opment and urban mobility, and sustainable and long-lasting peace in our region. Each of us experienced a tour in our way. Each of the essays in this brochure is different, and yet the same in its way. Each of us perceived things differently even though we traveled together, cycling through the same landscapes and towns. Just like the people from the Western Balkans, essays are similar at first glance, but they have a personal stamp that distinguishes one essay from another. Every town we visited during the tour has its own story. Some are still, some noisy and fast, some slow, some chaotic, and some cozy and sleepy. Some more bike-friendly, and some not bike-friendly at all. In this publication, we wanted to combine two things - love for cycling and love for our region and the people who live here. During the two-week trip on two wheels, we met over fifty citizens of different nationalities, religions, ages, and customs. We visited over twenty smaller and larger places in Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Montenegro, and Serbia. We used the differences we have noticed when traveling by bicycle from place to place to upgrade our knowledge of the neighbors with whom we live, to better understand each other. We are proud to show you our Western Balkans.

These are our stories. PARTNERS ON THE PROJECT

Centar za životnu sredinu / Center for environment – Center for Environment is an organization that is focused on environmental issues since its founding and beginning of activities. It was founded in 1999, with the aim to influence and contribute to the improvement of the environment through its active and proactive actions. It is a non-profit and non-partisan association that arguably advocates changes in society by influ- encing relevant policies and public awareness of the environment in Bosnia and Herzegovina and internationally. When a group of students from the Natural Sciences Faculty in Banja Luka launched the organization Young Researchers in Banja Luka, they could not even imagine what activities the association would have today. At the very beginning, they wanted to be primarily engaged in scientific research, and that environmental protection would be the result of the research that we are going to carry out. However, they quickly realized that for scientific-research work they will not have the support of faculty professors, and at the same time they have discovered that we need to change our focus on the activity if they want to give deserved attention to environmental issues. Today, the Center for Environment is recognized as an organization that tries to influence the relevant public policies in a reasoned and active way, raise public awareness of environmental issues, and achieve constructive cooperation with other associations, networks, institutions and international organizations. www.czzs.org fb: www.facebook.com/CentarZaZivotnuSredinu Instagram: www.instagram.com/centar_za_zivotnu_sredinu youtube: www.youtube.com/user/CZZSBL

Ulice za bicikliste/ Streets for cyclists – Ulice za bicikliste/Streets for cyclists is an independent association of citizens committed to improv- ing biking conditions and increasing the visibility of cyclists in highly-trafficked areas of Belgrade. The Association was founded informally in April 2011 when a Viennese student on a volunteer exchange decided to launch monthly bicycle rides through the city center in Belgrade, which are known in 300 cities around the world as Critical Mass. The goal of those activities is raising aware- ness of equal participation of cyclists in urban traffic. The association hopes to see cycling and walking culture overtake car culture, which is outdated and, in many ways, threatens citizens’ well-being.

4 The organization is changing the urban development policy in order to achieve Belgrade adjusted for people, pedestrianized modality, to promote alternative ways of transport and bicycle infrastruc- ture within city limits. The organization is proud to be an example of grassroots sustainable urban mobility activism in Belgrade. Street for cyclists was created on the basis of the monthly Critical Mass events. Our activities take place locally, based on the interests and engagement of the community. The goals of the organization include changing the mindset of the citizens, which is possible with positive energy and little willingness from the residents. www.uzb.rs fb: www.facebook.com/uguzb tw: www.twitter.com/uzbbgd Instagram: www.instagram.com/uzbbgd youtube: www.youtube.com/user/ulicezabicikliste

Bajkultura – Bajkultura is an initiative of the youth association “Priroda i društvo”/ “Nature and society”, estab- lished in 2016 as a reaction to the inadequate cycling infrastructure in Zenica. The association “Priroda i društvo” represents a community of various young people from Bosnian city of Zenica, who combined friendship and common interest in order to promote alternative and healthier lifestyles. Bajkultura represents group of likeminded friends who joined forces to socialize and build up an independent association of artists, which initiated many social and cultural activities in Zenica. Among others, those are socio-cultural movements, gatherings and festivals. Initiated by cyclists-enthusiasts, Bajkultura as a cycling movement gathers mainly cyclists in Zenica. Since 2016, in the next three years cyclists gathered for regular monthly bicycle rides called Critical Mass Zenica. Hundreds of cyclists cycled together through Critical Mass of Zenica, and these gatherings and mass rides each month pointed out various challenges cyclists usually face while cycling or commuting in Zenica. Participants advocated for better traffic solutions, which includes the struggle for better conditions for cyclists and more traffic safety in Zenica. Bajkultura today works on the promotion of the use of bicycles as a way of transport and through cooperation with the local community continue to further improve the cycling infrastructure and bike culture in the city. It is an independent, informal and grassroots movement that anyone can join. fb: www.facebook.com/Bajkultura

5 Biciklo.me – Biciklo.me is a non-governmental association founded in 2013 in Podgorica in Montenegro and for almost two years before its official establishment, it was active as an informal association of citizens gathered around the forum www.biciklo.me. The organization is committed to the promotion of cycling as a way of urban mobility and recreation, for alternative forms of public transport, sustainable forms of development and healthy lifestyles at the local, national and international levels. Vision of the organization is the realization of the idea of Podgorica as a bicycle-friendly city. This includes modern Podgorica with a developed cycling infrastructure. Podgorica, on whose streets cyclists feel like equal participants in traffic and where educated participants in traffic respect each other’s traffic rules. Biciklo.me most recognizable activity is Critical Mass, a cycling ride that the Association organiz- es once a month in Podgorica since the beginning of 2018. On several occasions Critical Mass was organized in Nikšić and Tivat, in cooperation with local partners. With this event, the organization draws attention to the position of cyclists in cities in Montenegro and advocates for sustainable urban mobility and development. www.biciklo.me fb: www.facebook.com/biciklo.me tw: www.twitter.com/biciklome Instagram: www.instagram.com/biciklo.me youtube: www.youtube.com/user/biciklome

GO2 –

GO2 is founded 9 years ago and it operates all over Albania but more specifically in Shkoder region – its mission aims a better quality of life in Albanian communities. GO2 comes as innovation in the area by changing the mindset of local community and stakehold- ers about the new approaches in city development, such as: mobility, tourism and cultural heritage.

As part of its contribution to the built environment, GO2 has developed significant projects with national and international donors and partners, providing expertise on issues related to urban mobility and sustainable tourism. Such is the Sustainable Urban Movement Plan of the Municipality of Shkodra, the Construction Manual in Theth National Park, the trans- lation of the PRESTO manual for bicycle infrastructure, and many more. It has contributed to understand ‘bicycle’ not only as a way of transportation in everyday life, but also as one of the best adventure tourism and social cohesion.

In 2016, GO2 organized in Albania the European Mobility Week, and since 2017, GO2 organizes Right2theCity Albania, which is attended by architects, urban planners, decision 6 makers and professionals in various fields of life from the Balkans and beyond. In 2020 GO2 organized Bauhaus Shkodra, an important event for architecture and design. In terms of the natural environment, GO2 has been publishing an environmental newspaper for 4 years, and has compiled studies for natural parks in different areas of the Albania.

www.go2albania.org fb: www.facebook.com/GO2-441072575963389 tw: www.twitter.com/GO2Albania Instagram: www.instagram.com/go2al youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1dFRPQ8NnA36ZOpMs8wQrA

7 DONORS OF THE PROJECT

Regional Youth Cooperation Office – Regional Youth Cooperation Office (RYCO) is an independently functioning institutional mecha- nism, founded by the Western Balkans 6 participants (WB 6): Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo*, Montenegro, North Macedonia and Serbia, aiming to promote the spirit of reconciliation and cooperation between the youth in the region through youth exchange programs. The Agreement on the Establishment of RYCO was signed by the WB 6 Prime Ministers at the WB Summit held in Paris, on July 4, 2016. www.rycowb.org fb: www.facebook.com/RYCOWB tw: www.twitter.com/@RYCOwb Instagram: www.instagram.com/rycowb youtube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCskyC8ZyWDpqYYiWFm0JUcw

Western Balkans Fund – The Western Balkans Fund (WBF) is an international organization located in Tirana, Albania, founded by the governments of Albania, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Kosovo1, North Macedonia, Montenegro and Serbia. Its establishment, as an all-inclusive and regionally owned initiative, is considered as a clear sign of a new cooperation spirit taking roots in the Balkans. The Agreement for the creation of WBF was signed by the Ministers of Foreign Affairs of WB6, in November 2015. The Fund has become operational on October 1, 2017, after the conclusion of the ratification procedures by all parliaments of its constitutive members. WBF is financed by the six Contracting Parties in equal quotas. WBF aims to promote cooperation and the common values between citizens, civil society and people to people contacts, by providing funding for small and medium projects, in the areas of sustainable economic development, education exchange and cooperation and cultural cooperation www.westernbalkansfund.org fb: www.facebook.com/WesternBalkansFund tw: www.twitter.com/balkans_fund Instagram: www.instagram.com/westernbalkansfund youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UCLuEaTSASEoaUu4ez5DIvnw

81 This designation is without prejudice to positions on status and is in line with UNSCR 1244 and the ICJ Opinion on the Kosovo Declaration of Independence. TOURS

Albania – Tour in Albania started on September 19 and concluded on September 22, 2020. During 4 days participants visited cities of Shkoder, Velipoje, Bushat and Baks Rrjoll and rode 161 km on bike.

Participants: Besar Dragovoja Edvin Lamçe Fatlinda Hasaj Liridona Ura Nermin Shurdha

Bosnia and Herzegovina – Tour in Bosnia and Herzegovina lasted from September 24 to September 28, 2020. During 5 days partici- pants visited cities of Banja Luka, Kneževo/Skender Vakuf, Travnik and Zenica and rode 154 km on bike.

Participants: Dragan Kabić Dino Alagić Ivan Bojanić Majda Ibraković Redžib Skomorac

9 Montenegro – Montenegro Tour began on September 28 and concluded on October 2, 2020. During 5 days participants visited cities of Podgorica, Ulcinj, Tivat, Kotor, Perast, Prčanj and Luštica peninsula and rode 307 km on bike

Participants: Brano Božović David Dabetić Dejan Tofčević Duško Vuković Ivana Anđelić

Serbia – Tour in Serbia started on September 28 and finished on October 4, 2020. During 7 days participants visited cities of Belgrade, Valjevo, Arilje, Kušići, Sjenica, Novi Pazar, Vranje and Bujanovac and rode 420 km on bike and 280 km with car

Participants: Bogdan Spasojević Jasna Cizler Maja Mladenović Tihomir Dičić Zoran Bukvić

10 ESSAYS / ALBANIA / SHQIPËRIA

11 Besar Dargovoja / Balkaravana 2020 –

Bicycle has been a part of my life since childhood. Even though I started using it just because it was fun and only because I enjoyed bicycle ride, while growing up and learning more about transportation I started to think more strategically in the way and purpose I still use my bike. It is an important mode of non-motorized transportation to enhance the transportation sustainability, and reduce air and noise pollution, a reduction in traffic, also is efficient in the use of public space. Supporting this kind of green mobility had advantages both for the people health and environment.

My life experiences have allowed me to visit all the areas that we revisited during the tour. The reason that motivated me participate was especially the intercultural approach that the tour aimed to promote. While revisiting the areas with this purpose in my mind, I discovered much more characteristics for each of these areas. I saw much more aspects that I unintentionally skipped during my first visits there. Young people representing the future of each community should promote the intercultural dialogue between citizens to strengthen respect for cultural diversity and deal with the complex reality in our societies and the coexistence of different cultural identities and beliefs. Gathering these young people together it is an opportunity to develop the intercultural awareness and understanding of individuals. During this tour I reached young people from different cultures, areas and backgrounds and it was a great possibility to share some ideas, and thinking about some possible activities that would allow us to know each other cultures.

Multiculturalism is where a variety of many different cultures/ethnic groups with different backgrounds live together within the same society, that’s why living in a multicultural society has many positive sides, because we can communicate with people who have different cultures and traditions. A multicultural society comes with many great things, and an obvious advantage is the promotion of diversity and being open minded. With a much more diverse society people will hopefully become much more educated and tolerant about cultures other than their own. With more tolerance and education, optimistically stereotypes, prejudice and racism will eventu- ally fade and people will become more accepting of each other’s differences. You could argue that this would have very little output in some cultures, countries or societies, however I believe that with the younger generations people will soon become more tolerant and less racist.

The culture has many definitions and aspects; fishing is one particular culture of a communi- ty. Fishing is one of my favorite activities to practice in my free time. The tour was organized near Buna River, Shkoder Lake and Adriatic Sea, meaning that we also had the opportunity to go fishing. I came very prepared about it and got all the tools with me. Even though I wasn’t that lucky in catching the fish, it was a pleasure to share the experiences with other young participants. Fisheries activity contributes to the sociocultural well-being of coastal commu- nities. Fishing contributes to sense of place in terms of place-attachment and cultural-social memory. The sense of place contributes to understanding the relationship between fishing and cultural-ecosystem services. Realizing the value of fishing cultural landscape can encourage policies that promote preservation of fishing cultural heritage for the sociocultural benefit of communities.

In conclusion, multiculturalism is unavoidable due to globalization and that the advantages of multiculturalism overpower the negatives. A person should be able to accept what the other culture believes without contradicting or trying to establish supremacy, it is important to

12 recognize that each community is different and hence one has to respect the other to ensure a peaceful environment. Multiculturalism when rightly structured can lead to peaceful, open-mind- ed, supportive communities. –

Biçikleta ka qenë pjesë e jetës time që nga fëmijëria. Edhe pse fillova ta përdorja vetëm sepse ishte argëtuese dhe vetëm sepse më pëlqente udhëtimi me biçikletë, ndërsa u rrita dhe mësova më shumë për transportin fillova të mendoj më strategjikisht për mënyrën dhe qëllimin që unë akoma përdor biçikletën time. Eshtë një mënyrë e rëndësishme e transportit e pamotorizuar për të rritur qëndrueshmërinë e transportit dhe për të zvogëluar ndotjen e ajrit dhe zhurmës, një reduktim i trafikut, gjithashtu është efikas në përdorimin e hapësirës publike. Mbështetja e këtij lloji të lëvizjes së gjelbër kishte përparësi si për shëndetin e njerëzve ashtu edhe për mjedisin.

Përvojat e mia të mëparshme më kanë lejuar të vizitoj të gjitha zonat që kemi rivizituar gjatë turneut. Arsyeja që më motivoi të marr pjesë ishte veçanërisht qasja ndërkulturore që turneu synonte të promovonte. Ndërsa rivizitoja keto zona me këtë qëllim në mendjen time, zbulova shumë më tepër karakteristika për secilën nga këto zona. Unë pashë shumë më tepër aspekte që padashur i kapërceva gjatë vizitave të mia të para atje. Të rinjtë që përfaqësojnë të ardhmen e secilit komunitet duhet të promovojnë dialogun ndërkulturor midis qytetarëve për të forcuar respektin për diversitetin kulturor dhe të merren me realite- tin kompleks në shoqëritë tona dhe bashkëjetesën e identiteteve e besimeve të ndryshme kulturore. Mbledhja e këtyre të rinjve së bashku është një mundësi për të rritur ndërgjeg- jësimin dhe mirëkuptimin ndërkulturor të individëve. Gjatë këtij turneu takova të rinj nga kultura, zona dhe prejardhje të ndryshme dhe ishte një mundësi e shkëlqyer për të ndarë disa ide, duke menduar për disa aktivitete të mundshme që do të na lejonin të njihnim kulturat e njëri-tjetrit.

Multikulturalizmi është vendi ku shumëllojshmëri e shumë kulturave të ndryshme / grupeve etnike me prejardhje të ndryshme jetojnë së bashku në të njëjtën shoqëri, kjo është arsye- ja pse të jetosh në një shoqëri multikulturore ka shumë anë pozitive, sepse ne mund të komunikojmë me njerëz që kanë kultura dhe tradita të ndryshme. Një shoqëri multikulturore vjen me shumë gjëra të mëdha, dhe një avantazh i dukshëm është promovimi i diversitetit dhe të qenit mendjehapur. Me një shoqëri shumë më të larmishme, njerëzit shpresojmë se do të bëhen shumë më të edukuar dhe më tolerantë për kultura të ndryshme nga kulturat e tyre. Me më shumë tolerancë dhe edukim, stereotipet, paragjykimet dhe racizmi përfun- dimisht do të zbehen dhe njerëzit do të bëhen më pranues të ndryshimeve të njëri-tjetrit. Ju mund të argumentoni se kjo do të kishte shumë pak rezultat në disa kultura, vende ose shoqëri, megjithatë besoj se me brezat e rinj njerëzit së shpejti do të bëhen më tolerantë dhe më pak racistë.

Kultura ka shumë përkufizime dhe aspekte; peshkimi është një kulturë e veçantë e një komuniteti. Peshkimi është një nga aktivitetet e mia të preferuara për ta praktikuar në kohën time të lirë. Turneu u organizua pranë lumit Buna, Liqenit të Shkodrës dhe Detit Adriatik, që do të thotë se ne gjithashtu patëm mundësinë të peshkonim. Unë erdha shumë i përgatitur për këtë dhe mora të gjitha mjetet me vete. Edhe pse nuk isha aq me fat në kapjen e peshkut, ishte kënaqësi të ndaja përvojat me pjesëmarrësit e tjerë të rinj. Aktiviteti i peshkimit kontribuon në mirëqenien sociokulturore të komuniteteve bregde- tare. Peshkimi kontribuon në ndjenjën e vendit për sa i përket atashimit të vendit dhe kujtesës kulturore-shoqërore. Ndjenja e vendit kontribuon në kuptimin e marrëdhënies midis peshkimit dhe shërbimeve kulturore-ekosistemit. Evidentimi i vlerës së peizazhit kulturor të 13 peshkimit mund të inkurajojë politika që promovojnë ruajtjen e trashëgimisë kulturore të peshkimit për përfitimin sociokulturor të komuniteteve.

Si përfundim, multikulturalizmi është i pashmangshëm për shkak të globalizimit dhe se përparësitë e multikulturalizmit tejkalojnë ato negative. Një person duhet të jetë në gjendje të pranojë atë që kultura tjetër beson pa kundërshtuar ose duke u përpjekur të vendosë epërsinë, është e rëndësishme të pranojmë se secili komunitet është i ndryshëm dhe prandaj njëri duhet të respektojë tjetrin për të siguruar një mjedis paqësor. Multikulturalizmi kur është i strukturuar si duhet mund të çojë në komunitete paqësore, me mendje të hapur, mbështetëse.

14 Edvin Lamçe –

As a professional of cultural heritage, I appreciate Shkodra, the Albanian city of culture, that is why I chose to come these days. I traveled from the south of Albania, Gjirokastra, the UNESCO city, with the desire to pedal and meet new people, new cultures, new commu- nities, places unknown to me in the northern corners. If Gjirokastra is steep and you can only walk, here in flat Shkodra you can walk, but more than anything you can pedal. The bicycle here remains the spiritual cultural heritage, which makes it special for the whole of Southeast Europe as it is simply the passion and tradition of the people of Shkodra. Since I live in Tirana for a part of the time, I pedal there and I got this impetus from the sustain- able and healthy movement of the people of Shkodra - I come often and this has been an inspiration for me.

People are hospitable, loving, smiling and humorous and this has always made them a unique city with values that have contributed over the years in the genres of art, such as: music, paint- ing, photography of Marubi, literature, sports, etc. If we want to promote tourism in this region, a visitor will be able to find many things - what remains a unique value for this region and not only is the religious, multi-ethnic and multicultural coexistence. Even during our trip, this was evidenced by the diversity of territories, communities. Involvement in the celebration of the village of Dajç, meetings and interviews with representatives of the Montenegrin community, visits to the Roma neighborhood and closer acquaintance with different groups of religious and cultural affiliations, remains an added value for tourism in this area.

Within a city view you can find the minaret of the mosque, the church bell, the clock tower - these symbols speak without words.

The past must be freely harmonized with the present and the future, as tradition does not stand still, it continues with time. This would make the city culture attractive today, it would bring it to another dimension and value. I mention this aspect, because I find many groups of young people with passions, talents, as was the case of Nermin who has been making murals around the city for a long time, or GO2 itself which has brought a lot of innovation and creativity for years in the Shkodra region, music youth groups in jazz, light music, creative tourism with water sports like Drini Times, alternative hostel spaces ‘Mi Casa es tu casa’ or Ecosocial Farm, Arti i Zanave, EkoClub, ARKA and Atelie youth centers, that bring a lot of youth events in the city, etc.

If these dimensions are further expanded through various European projects, such as: Creative Europe, cross-border IPA, Adrion would add value not only to the cross-border region of Shkodra but also to the Balkan Region as a whole. Physical borders are also mental borders, so breaking down barriers would be a freedom for the younger generations - today technol- ogy is a tool we must use to our common good. Information, exchange of experiences and closeness through culture, sports, art would be a novelty in our intercultural exchanges. In addition, movement is the best way to break these barriers, which is why I appreciated this Balkaravana 2020 tour, because the interaction, communication and message it conveys only brings dialogue and peace between us, the youth. –

Si profesionist i trashëgimisë kulturore, Shkodrën, qytetin shqiptar të kulturës e çmoj tepër, prandaj edhe zgjodha të vij këto ditë. Kam udhëtuar nga jugu i Shqipërisë, Gjirokastra qyteti UNESCO me dëshirën për të pedaluar e njohur njerëz të rinj, kultura të reja, komunitete të reja, 15 vende të panjohura për mua skutash të veriut. Nëse Gjirokastra është e pjerrët dhe vetëm mund të ecësh, këtu në Shkodrën e sheshtë mund të ecësh, por më shumë se gjithçka të pedalosh. Biçikleta këtu mbetet trashëgimi kulturore shpirtërore, që e bën të veçantë për tërë Europën Juglindore pasi është thjesht pasioni dhe tradita e shkodranëve. Mqs unë një pjesë të kohës jetoj edhe në Tiranë, atje unë pedaloj dhe këtë shtysë e kam marrë nga lëvizja e qëndrueshme dhe e shëndetshme e shkodranëve – vij shpesh e kjo ka qenë si frymëzim për mua.

Njerëzit janë mikpritës, të dashur, të qeshur e me humor dhe kjo i ka bërë gjithmonë një qytet unik me vlera dhe që kanë lëvruar në vite zhanret e artit, qoftë: muzikën, pikturën, fotografinë e Marubëve, letërsinë, sportet, etj. Nëse do duam të nxisim turizëm në këtë rajon, një vizitor do mund të gjej shumë çka – ajo që mbetet vlerë unike për kë të rajon dhe jo vetëm është edhe bashkëjetesa fetare, multietnike e multikulturore. Edhe gjatë udhëtimit tonë, kjo dëshmohej nga diversiteti i territoreve, komuniteteve. Përfshirja në festën e fshatit Dajç, takimet e intervistat me përfaqësues të komunitetit malazez, vizita prane lagjes rome dhe njohja më nga afër me grupe të ndryshme të përkatësive fetare e kulturore, mbetet një vlerë e shtuar për turizmin në këtë zonë.

Brenda një pamje qyteti mund të gjesh minarenë e xhamisë, këmbënën e kishës, kullën e sahatit – këto simbole flasin pa fjalë.

E kaluara duhet të harmonizohet lirisht me të sotmen dhe të ardhmen, pasi tradita nuk rri në vend, ajo ecën me kohën. Kjo do ta bënte tërheqëse kulturën e qytetit sot, do ta sillte në një tjetër dimension e vlerë. E cek këtë aspekt, pasi gjej plot grupe të rinjsh me pasione, talente, siç ishte edhe rasti i Nerminit që prej kohësh po bën murale nëpër qytet, apo vetë GO2 që ka sjellë plot inovacion e kreativitet prej vitesh në rajonin e Shkodrës, grupe muzikore të rinjsh në jazz, në muzikë të lehtë, turizmin kreativ me sportet ujore si Drini Times, hapësirat alternative të hostel ‘Mi Casa es tu casa’ ose Ferma Ekosociale, Arti i Zanave, qendrat rinore EkoClub, ARKA dhe Atelie në qytet që sjellin plot evente të rinjsh, etj.

Nëse këto dimensione do të zgjerohen më tutje përmes projekteve të ndryshme europi- ane, si: Creative Europe, IPA ndërkufitare, Adrion do t’ja shtonin vlerën jo vetëm rajonit ndërkufitar të Shkodrës por edhe Rajonit të Ballkanit në tërësi. Kufinjtë fizik janë edhe kufinj mental, prandaj thyerja e barrierave do të ishte një liri për brezat e rinj – sot teknologjia është një mjet që ne duhet ta përdorim në të mirën tonë të përbashkët. Informacioni, shkëmbimi i përvojave dhe afrimiteti përmes kulturës, sporteve, artit do të ishte risi në shkëmbimet tona ndërkulturore. Përveç kësaj, lëvizja është mënyra më e mirë për t’i thyer këto barriera, prandaj edhe çmova këtë turne BalkCaravana 2020, sepse ndërveprimi, komunikimi dhe mesazhi që përcjell sjell veçse dialog e paqe mes nesh, të rinjve.

16 Fatlinda Hasaj –

Shkodra is well known for bicycles, a tradition already inherited for decades, while cycling has been a long-time hobby for me who produces both long and short-term benefits. It is the best way to get in shape, enjoy the outdoors, and have fun while you’re doing it. But, cycling combined with some other very important motives such as, to promote peace, intercultural dialogue, and green mobility really motivated me to participate in Balkaravana 2020 tour.

Sustainable transport or green mobility refers to any means of transport with low impact on the environment, and includes non-motorized transport, such as cycling. The concept that using a bike immensely benefits not only people but the environment is well worth considering. A bicycle is a very simple solution to many problems. People can enjoy their time while travelling, save money, and get exercise for a healthier body. Owning and utilizing a bicycle can cut back expenses, improve health, and help the environment.

Peace is more than the absence of war; it is living together with our differences. Therefore, peace should never be taken for granted. It is an on-going process, a long-term goal. It is a choice to be made on each situation, an everyday life decision to engage in sincere dialogue with other individual and communities.

Dialogue between cultures, is an antidote to rejection and violence. Its objective is to enable us to live together peacefully and constructively in a multicultural world and to develop a sense of community and belonging. Opportunities for intercultural learning occur when young people from different societies and ethnicities meet and get to know each other, especially when those meetings provide them with an opportunity to question their stereotypes and prejudices, and to speak about their attitudes and cultures (including cultural memory) in a safe environment.

During this tour I had the opportunity to visit a number of communities that I haven’t before, enjoy many sightseeing and it was a pleasure to get to know more about their cultural and historical heritage, and what’s more important mixing with local people and experiencing life activities as locals do. I also discovered some new local food, experiencing new ways of cooking and serving the meals. It gave me peace within by just feeling the atmosphere in these areas that we visited and which all of them had their own differences and characteristics. Also, music is another way of presenting a specific culture, it is sad that the new generation is not very keen on preserving the traditional music, that’s why it’s very important to promote it as a cultural value and give it the necessary importance.

Throw this journey we got in touch with many minorities, especially Montenegrins, who shared with us the story of their lives. It was such pride to listen from them that they were always welcomed in our community, lived in harmony without being prejudiced. They have been integrated very well in the community; some of them run their own businesses or work in public sector, in municipality and so on.

Being a tourism student, the sightseeing areas has always been very interesting for me, and this tour perfectly allowed me to visit these areas in our region that I haven’t visited before. I also learned a lot about the cultural, historical and heritage of each of them. Mesi Bridge, built in the early 18th century by Mehmet Pasha Bushati, has the status of a cultural monument of the first category and is the largest bridge that remains from the Ottoman period in Albania. The second favorite site was the Church of Shirq it is a cultural monument. This is a Benedictine church and had a very special architecture, a mixture of Romanesque and Gothic style, but 17 unfortunately the majority of the church is now destroyed. The local event of a small community in Dajç are, was also one of my favorites, it was the activity organized on the banks of the river Buna, in the focus of which was the promotion of local businesses, tourism, natural resources, cuisine, traditions of the area, etc. It’s adorable the effort of the small communities that works so hard and never give up despite all the difficulties that they have to face. Baks Rrjoll, also one of the villages that I visited for the first time, it was simple and small, but the atmosphere of the life there was so warming. The families were engaged in fishing regularly. Fisheries activity, especially small-scale fisheries such as the families there, embeds individuals and communities into a place, giving them a sense of belonging and rootedness.

Overall, our region is very diverse, always known for the tolerance and understanding between communities. This value it’s good to be promoted especially for the young generation, knowing these communities that live around them is a vital aspect in the future harmony. Living in a multicultural environment it’s very beneficial; it can provide more creativity and innovation in the society. Also, exploring the area using a green mobility it’s the best way possible. –

Shkodra është e njohur për biçikletat, një traditë e trashëguar tashmë për dekada, ndërsa çiklizmi ka qenë një hobi prej kohësh për mua që njëkohësisht sjell përfitime afatgjata dhe afatshkurtra. Është mënyra më e mirë për të qenë në formë, për të shijuar ambientet e jashtme dhe për t’u argëtuar ndërsa e nget atë. Por, biçikleta e kombinuar me disa motive të tjera shumë të rëndësishme të tilla si, për të promovuar paqen, dialogun ndërkulturor dhe lëvizshmërinë e gjelbër më motivuan mua për të marrë pjesë në turneun Balkaravana 2020.

Transporti i qëndrueshëm ose lëvizshmëria e gjelbër i referohet çdo mjeti transporti me ndikim të ulët në mjedis dhe përfshin transportin e motorizuar, siç është çiklizmi. Koncepti që përdorimi i një biçiklete sjell përfitime pa masë jo vetëm për njerëzit por edhe për mjedisi është me vlerë të merret në konsideratë. Një biçikletë është një zgjidhje shumë e thjeshtë për shumë probleme. Njerëzit mund të shijojnë kohën e tyre gjatë udhëtimit, të kursejnë para dhe të ushtrohen për një trup më të shëndetshëm. Zotërimi dhe përdorimi i një biçiklete mund të shkurtojë shpenzimet, të përmirësojë shëndetin dhe të ndihmojë mjedisin.

Paqja është një koncept më gjerë sesa mungesa e luftës; është të jetuarit së bashku me dallimet tona. Prandaj, paqja nuk duhet të merret kurrë e mirëqenë. Është një proces i vazhdueshëm, një qëllim afatgjatë. Është një zgjedhje që duhet të aplikohet në çdo situatë, një vendim i jetës së përditshme për t’u përfshirë në një dialog të sinqertë me individin dhe komunitetet e tjera.

Dialogu midis kulturave, është një antidot ndaj refuzimit dhe dhunës. Objektivi i tij është të na lejojë të jetojmë së bashku paqësisht dhe në mënyrë konstruktive në një botë me shumë kultura dhe të zhvillojmë një ndjenjë të bashkësisë dhe përkatësisë. Mundësitë për të mësuar për kulturat e ndryshme ndodhin kur të rinjtë nga shoqëri dhe etni të ndryshme takohen dhe njihen me njëri-tjetrin, veçanërisht kur ato takime u ofrojnë atyre një mundësi për të vënë në pikëpyetje stereotipet dhe paragjykimet e tyre dhe për të folur për qëndrimet dhe kulturat e tyre (përfshirë kujtesën kulturore) në një mjedis të sigurt.

Gjatë këtij turneu pata mundësinë të vizitoj një numër komunitetesh që nuk i kam parë më parë, të shijoj shumë vende tërheqëse dhe ishte një kënaqësi të njihja më shumë për trashëgiminë e tyre kulturore dhe historike, dhe çfarë është më e rëndësishme përfshirja me njerëzit lokalë dhe të përjetoja aktivitete e tyre të përditshme, siç bëjnë vendasit. Unë gjithashtu zbulova disa ushqime të reja lokale, duke provuar mënyra të reja të gatimit dhe shërbimit të vakteve. Më krijojë një ndjenjë paqeje të brendshme duke shijuar atmosferën në këto zona që ne vizituam 18 dhe të cilat të gjitha kishin dallimet dhe karakteristikat e tyre të veçanta. Gjithashtu, muzika është një mënyrë tjetër për të paraqitur një kulturë specifike, është e trishtueshme që brezi i ri nuk është shumë i kujdesshëm për të ruajtur muzikën tradicionale, prandaj është shumë e rëndësishme të promovohet si një vlerë kulturore dhe t’i jepet rëndësia e nevojshme.

Përmes këtij udhëtim, ne kemi kontaktuar me shumë pakica, veçanërisht me Malazezët, të cilët ndanë me ne historinë e jetës së tyre. Ishte një krenari për të dëgjuar nga ata që gjithnjë janë ndjerë të mirëpritur në komunitetin tonë, që kanë jetuan në harmoni të pa paragjykuar. Ata janë integruar shumë mirë në komunitet; disa prej tyre drejtojnë biznesin e tyre ose punojnë në sektorin publik, në bashki etj.

Duke qenë një studente turizmi, vizitimi i vendeve të reja ka qenë gjithmonë shumë interesante për mua, dhe ky turne më lejoi në mënyrë perfekte të vizitoja këto zona në rajonin tonë që nuk i kam vizituar më parë. Unë gjithashtu mësova shumë për kulturën, historinë dhe trashëgiminë e secilës prej tyre. Ura e Mesit, e ndërtuar në fillim të shekullit të 18-të nga Mehmet Pasha Bushati, ka statusin e një monumenti kulture të kategorisë së parë dhe është ura më e madhe që mbetet nga periudha osmane në Shqipëri. Vendi i dytë i preferuar ishte Kisha e Shirqit, është një monument kulture. Kjo është një kishë benediktine dhe kishte një arkitekturë shumë të veçantë, një përzierje e stilit romanik dhe gotik, por për fat të keq shumica e kishës tani është shkatërruar. Festa lokale e një komuniteti të vogël në Dajç, gjithashtu ishte një nga të preferuarat e mia, ishte një aktivitet i organizuar në brigjet e lumit Buna, në fokusin e të cilit ishte promovimi i bizneseve lokale, turizmi, burimet natyrore, kuzhina, traditat e zonës, etj. Është e admirueshme përpjekja e komuniteteve të vogla që punojnë kaq shumë dhe nuk heqin dorë kurrë, pavarësisht nga të gjitha vështirësitë që duhet të përballen. Baks Rrjoll, gjithash- tu një nga fshatrat që vizitova për herë të parë, ishte i thjeshtë dhe i vogël, por atmosfera e jetës atje ishte aq e ngrohtë. Familjet merreshin me peshkim rregullisht. Aktiviteti i peshkimit, veçanërisht peshkimi në shkallë të vogël, siç si i familjeve atje, ngulit individët dhe komunitetet në një vend, duke u dhënë atyre një ndjenjë të përkatësisë dhe rrënjosjes.

Në përgjithësi, rajoni ynë është shumë i larmishëm, gjithmonë i njohur për tolerancën dhe mirëkuptimin midis komuniteteve. Kjo vlerë është mirë të promovohet veçanërisht për brezin e ri, duke i njohur këto komunitete që jetojnë rreth tyre është një aspekt jetësor për harmoninë e komuniteteve në të ardhshmen. Të jetosh në një mjedis me shumë kultura është shumë e dobishme; mund të sigurojë më shumë kreativitet dhe inovacion në shoqëri. Gjithashtu, eksplorimi i zonës duke përdorur një lëvizshmëri të gjelbër është mënyra më e mirë e mundshme.

19 Liridona Ura / The diverse sense of belonging –

“Take, take, take away. Do not wait for us to give you, take, but in one condition: that you give back.”, is what Renzo Piano says in an interview when dismantling diversity as a way to grow and to learn, referring to his intern architects from all over the world.

When we are young, we have been trapping under the skin the essence of our identity. The truth is that when we live in our local environment intensively, when desire to enjoy and observe is so intense, they remain. That local becomes our identity and that of course, we keep with us growing. Later, there are different values that come over, cultural and social values, through the pleasure of discovery, the pleasure of understanding the beauty and the value of the world, that is historical and cultural. Equally great is understanding that society is a very interesting thing, the community. Therefore, we understand the value of talking to people, listening to them, discussing and exchanging with them. Among this community there is a number of people that become closest to us, as the participants in Balkaravana2020 tour, which I will be calling companions. We start to know companions that do not necessarily do what we are doing. Those are companions that are writers, photographers, mechanics, architectural restorers, journalists etc., who come with their own civic and cultural values and also bringing their local identity. This is how we start to become part of this small companionship and through this diversity we get a sense of belonging with them.

One of the fundamental ways to understanding diversity as a value is to travel. By traveling we get away from what we are doing, and then we can see and understand what is going on in that local picture. Only by taking a distance, visiting other communities, urban or rural, mountainous or costal, native or not, as we have done during Balkaravana, we will be able to understand the diversity as a value and not a problem. Traveling makes possible that we see and we get to know this diversity of places and people, which we observe and we bring with ourselves home. Through this tour, instead of visiting new places and have a much simpler picture of diversity, we start to understand the civic values of our own fellows and we get a much clearer picture of our own diversity. Driven by this purpose we can no longer be tourists, because we talk, we listen to the people and we listen to places because they have a story to tell. Riding a bike with our companions we have explored these places, by cycling for the first time through the roads they walk daily and only this way we could be able to observe and somehow being part of their daily routine. Children we have cross riding a bike become for some meters part of our caravan, others accompany us to guide the way when we are lost, and we pick on trees and bushes just like them. That is how we as a group start to know this context of diversity and get another sense of belonging.

Despite the main frame of this bike tour being as a line of intercultural dialogue and peace between the youth and citizens of the Western Balkans by getting to being acquainted with this regions’ national minority and comprehend the diversity in this context, we have come to immerse a diversity in a larger spectrum. These communities that we have explored during the tour reflect diversity in the context of daily activities in urban and rural life, the advantages of the region, which have influenced the types of local enterprises and the challenges to build it, local products and cuisine, traditional garments etc. In a wider view there is the history, architecture, establishments, rural and urban development and the unmatched landscape. The national minority are part of this diversity in addition to all mentioned above which are already inevitable in a small or large community. Distancing ourselves from our natural environment to explore and comprehend the civil life in other regions is how we can see diversity as a value.

20 Instead of describing and interpreting certain examples or experiences during the tour in order to come to some conclusions, I have done the opposite. For after writing down certain conclu- sion of my own experiences I can start to understand what Mrs. Hare, Mrs. Aurora and Mr. Drobovoda mean when they are telling their own stories during the interviews. In the answers they give, it can be perceived the ease of how they have become part of the local community. They explain how not only have they absorbed the diversity of the civic values they have encoun- tered, but also bringing and sharing more others what have shaped and made them what they are. This merging of cultural values that they have expressed is reflected in customs, traditions, language, culinary etc. That these individuals and many others have found their sense of belong- ing. Just as they have brought and taken, we as well have been able to know and steal (take) glimpses of this diversity that we will carry with us when we go back to our local picture. This will serve to our own personal growing and learning, which will consequently lead strengthen tolerance and optimism, sustainable development and mobility. –

“Merrni, merrni, merrni me vete. Mos prisni që ne t’ju japim, merrni, por me një kusht: që të jepni mbrapsh.”, Kështu shprehet Renzo Piano në një intervistë kur zbërthen termin e diversi- tetit si një mënyrë për t’u rritur dhe për të mësuar, duke iu referuar arkitektëve praktikantë në studion e tij të vendosur në të gjithë botën.

Kur jemi të rinj, thelbin e identitetit tonë e mbajmë të fshehur dhe të mbërthyer nën lëkurë. E vërteta është se kur e jetojmë intesivisht përditshmërinë në rrethin tonë lokal, kur dëshira për të shijuar dhe vëzhguar është aq e fortë, copëzat e këtij mjedisi mbeten. Ai lokalitet bëhet identiteti ynë dhe natyrisht, ne vazhdojmë të rritemi. Kohë më pas, ka vlera të tjera që na përftohen, vlera kulturore dhe shoqërore, e përmes kënaqësisë së zbulimit, kënaqësisë për të kuptuar bukurinë dhe vlerën e botës, ato historike dhe kulturore. Po aq e mrekullueshme është edhe të kuptosh se shoqëria është një gjë shumë interesante, komuniteti. Prandaj, ne kupto- jmë vlerën e bisedave me njerëzit, t’i dëgjosh ata, të diskutosh dhe të shkëmbesh me ta. Në mesin e këtij komuniteti ka një numër njerëzish që bëhen më të afërt me ne, si pjesëmarrësit në turneun Balkaravana2020, të cilët do t’i quaj bashkëudhëtarë. Ne fillojmë të njohim miq që nuk bëjnë domosdoshmërisht atë që ne bëjmë. Këta miq që janë shkrimtarë, fotografë, mekanikë, arkitekta restauratorë, gazetarë, etj., të cilët na bashkohen duke mbartur vlerat e tyre qytetare dhe kulturore dhe gjithashtu sjellin identitetin e tyre lokal. Kjo është mënyra se si ne fillojmë të bëhemi pjesë e këtij komuniteti të vogël dhe me ta përmes këtij diversiteti ne marrim një nga ndjesitë e përkatësisë.

Një nga mënyrat themelore për ta përqafuar diversitetin si vlerë është të udhëtosh. Duke udhëtuar, shkëputemi nga ajo që po bëjmë dhe kështu mund të shohim dhe kuptojmë se çfarë realisht po ndodh në atë fotografi lokale. Vetëm duke marrë një distancë, duke vizituar komunitete të tjera, urbane apo rurale, malore apo bregdetare, vendase ose jo, siç kemi bërë gjatë turit të Balkaravana, ne do të jemi në gjendje të kuptojmë diversitetin si një vlerë dhe jo si një problematikë. Udhëtimi bën të mundur që ne të shohim dhe të njohim këtë larmi të vendeve dhe njerëzve, të cilët ne i vëzhgojmë dhe i mbartim me vete në “shtëpi”. Përmes këtij turi, në vend që të vizitojmë vende të reja jashtë kufinjve dhe të kemi një panoramë më të thjeshtë të diversitetit, ne fillojmë të kuptojmë vlerat qytetare të shokëve tanë dhe kemi një pamje shumë më të qartë të vetë diversitetit tonë. Të nxitur nga ky qëllim, ne nuk mund të jemi më turistë, sepse flasim, dëgjojmë njerëzit dhe dëgjojmë vendet (hapësirën e territorin) sepse ata kanë histori për të treguar. Duke hipur në biçikleta me bashkëudhëtarët tanë, ne kemi eksploruar këto vende, duke pedaluar për herë të parë nëpër rrugët që ky komunitet kalon çdo ditë dhe vetëm në këtë mënyrë ne mund të jemi në gjendje të vëzhgojmë dhe disi të jemi pjesë e rutinës së tyre ditore. Fëmijët në zonë, gjithashtu mbi biçikleta bëhen për disa metra pjesë e karvanit 21 tonë, e të tjerë na shoqërojnë për të udhëhequr rrugën kur humbasim, dhe kështu ne zgjtemi të kapim fruta në pemë ashtu si ata. Kjo është mënyra se si ne si grup fillojmë të njohim këtë kontekst të diversitetit dhe të marrim një tjetër ndjenjë të përkatësisë.

Pavarësisht tematikës kryesore të këtij turi me biçikleta si një linjë e dialogut ndërkulturor dhe paqes midis të rinjve dhe komunitetit të Ballkanit Perëndimor duke u njohur me pakicat kombëtare të këtyre rajoneve dhe duke kuptuar diversitetin në këtë kontekst, ne kemi arritur t’i zhytemi diversitetit në një spektër më të gjerë. Këto komunitete që ne kemi njohur gjatë turit pasqyrojnë diversitetin në kontekstin e aktiviteteve të përditshme në jetën urbane dhe rurale, përparësitë e rajonit, të cilat kanë ndikuar në tipologjitë e ndërmarrjeve lokale dhe sfidat për t’i ndërtuar ata, produktet dhe kuzhinën lokale, veshjet tradicionale etj. Në një pamje më të largët ekziston historia, arkitektura, institucionet, zhvillimi rural dhe urban dhe peizazhi i pashoq. Pakica kombëtare është pjesë e këtij diversiteti, përveç të gjithë elementëve të lartpërmendura, të cilat janë tashmë të pashmangshme në një komunitet të vogël apo të madh. Shkëputja nga mjedisi ynë i përditshëm për të eksploruar dhe kuptuar jetën e komunitetit në rajone të tjera është mënyra se si ne mund ta shohim diversitetin si një vlerë.

Në vend që të përshkruaj dhe interpretoj shembuj apo përvoja specifike gjatë turneut në mënyrë që të dal në disa përfundime, do të bëj të kundërtën. Pas disa parimeve dhe përfundimeve të përmendura më herët, mundem realisht të kuptoj se çfarë duan të thonë Znj. Hare, Znj. Aurora dhe Z. Drobovoda kur tregojnë historitë e tyre gjatë intervistave. Në përgjigjet e tyre, mund të perceptohet lehtësia se si ata janë bërë pjesë e komunitetit lokal. Ata shprehin se si jo vetëm që kanë përthithur larminë e vlerave qytetare që kanë hasur në komunitetet ku janë bërë pjesë, por edhe duke sjellë dhe ndarë më të ta ato vlera e që i kanë formësuar dhe i kanë bërë ato që janë. Ky bashkim i vlerave kulturore që ata shpjegojnë pasqyrohet në zakone, tradita, gjuhë, kuzhinë etj. Pra këta individë dhe shumë të tjerë kanë gjetur ndjenjën e tyre të përkatësisë. Ashtu siç kanë sjellë dhe marrë, ne gjithashtu kemi qenë në gjendje të njohim dhe të vjedhim (marrim) një imazh të shkurtër të këtij diversiteti që do të mbartim me vete kur të kthehemi në tablonë tonë lokale. Kjo do t’i shërbejë rritjes dhe mësimit tonë personal, që me reflektimin në komunitetin tonë, do të çojë në forcimin e tolerancës dhe optimizmit, zhvillimit dhe lëvizjes së qëndrueshmë.

22 Nermin Shurdha –

In September when I joined the youth group for the Balkaravana 2020 initiative I did not expect it to be such a beautiful and comprehensive experience for me. It all started from my passion for cycling, when I saw the announcement, I wanted to seize this opportunity for a new experi- ence I did not have before. We were introduced to the group on the first day and we had the opportunity to get to know each other better during the day by exchanging different knowledge and past experiences for our common passion, cycling.

A good portion of the itineraries we traversed were brand new to me and I learned different places where I would go again with my friends. Like any trip in nature even this time, the trees, the fresh air, the river and everything positively impacted our body and mind. In addition, the whole group enjoyed the trip very much, as most of the itineraries entered the quiet secondary road surrounded by greenery, thus avoiding noise, pollution and the risk of car traffic.

Throughout the trip we had the support of the representatives of the association “GO2” who followed us step by step all the time and were close to us for all the needs we had on the road, not counting the meals or the accommodation which was very good, in carefully selected places, near nature and away from the city.

During the journey, we had the opportunity to get to know the group members better and start- ed a new friendship that I believe will last a very long time. We exchanged our phone numbers and decided to keep in touch with each other for similar cycling trips or just outdoor trips. We were a group of different ages, backgrounds, educations and cultures, but we were united by our passion for cycling and the desire to explore new places and meet new people. This made us learn more about each other and the cultures we represent. This is also the most positive side I think of such initiatives, the positive impact that remains on us as beneficiaries, the new experience and the growth it brings. –

Në shtator kur ju bashkova grupit të të rinjve për nismën Balkaravan-2020 nuk e prisja që do ishte një eksperiencë aq e bukur dhe e gjithanshme për mua. Nisi gjithçka nga pasioni që kam për biçikletën, kur pashë njoftimin desha të kap këtë mundësi për një eksperiencë të re që nuk e kisha kaluar më përpara. U prezantuam me grupin ditën e parë dhe patëm mundësi të njiheshim më shumë gjatë ditës duke shkëmbyer njohuri dhe eksperienca të ndryshme të kaluara me pasionin tonë të përbashkët, biçikletën.

Një pjesë e mirë e itinerareve që përshkuam ishin krejt të reja për mua dhe mësova vende të ndryshme ku do të shkoj përsëri me shoqërinë time. Si çdo udhëtim në natyrë edhe këtë radhë, pemët, ajri i pastër, lumi dhe çdo gjë ndikuan pozitivisht në trupin dhe mendjen tonë. Përveç kësaj, të gjithë grupi e shijoi më së miri udhëtimin, meqenëse pjesa më e madhe e itinerareve hynte në rrugë dytësore të qeta dhe të rrethuara nga gjelbërimi, duke shmangur kështu zhurmën, ndotjen dhe rrezikun e trafikut të makinave.

Gjatë gjithë udhëtimit kishim suportin e pëfaqësuesve të shoqatës “GO2” të cilët na ndoqën hap pas hapi gjithë kohën dhe na u gjenden afër për të gjithë nevojat që kishim rrugës, pa llogaritur gjithashtu edhe vaktet apo akomodimin që ishte shumë mirë, në vende të zgjedhura me kujdes, pranë natyrës dhe larg qytetit.

23 Në ditët e udhëtimit, ne anëtarët e grupit patëm mundësinë të njiheshim më shumë me njeri- tjetrin dhe filluam një miqësi të re që besoj do të vazhdojë shumë gjatë. Shkëmbyem numrat e telefonit dhe vendosëm të ruanim kontaktet për më gjatë për raste të ngjashme udhëtimesh me biçikleta ose thjesht në natyrë. Ishim një grup moshash, prejardhjes, edukimi dhe kulturash të ndryshme, por që na bashkoi pasioni për biçikletën dhe dëshira për të eksploruar vende të reja dhe njohur njerëz të rinj. Kjo na bëri që të mësojmë më shumë rreth njeri-tjetrit dhe kulturave që përfaqësojmë. Kjo është edhe ana më pozitive mendoj e iniciativave të tilla, impakti pozitiv që na mbet në vazhdim neve si përfitues, eksperienca e re dhe formimi që sjell.

24 ESSAYS / BOSNA I HERCEGOVINA / BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

25 Dragan Kabić –

“May God give you happiness and health to all!” I don’t hate anyone. I was born where there is no mosque and I am proud of that. But I don’t hate anyone! I love my own, but I respect others. “

As I contemplate this disordered and, euphemistically speaking, ambiguous thought, unfor- tunately of the generally accepted narrative among us, I remember how many times I got wet that day.

I wake up, make coffee. Through the window, it seems day is trying to overlook, but he’s not doing very well. I mean, it’s early, it’s not dawn. I have breakfast, pack the last little things. Gloomy, still. I am going outside putting my panniers on my bike. I look at my watch, eight-thirty. 08:30! Looking at the sky I try to make sure the day has begun. A drop of rain falls in my eye. I shyly try to check the forecast. The thunderstorm begins. The forecast is loading - says the sun. I sit on the stairs and fall into slight despair.

“My uncle was in the partisans. And I also remember that war... ‘’ - continues the old man Rajko, a resident of the village of Tisovac in the immediate vicinity of Kneževo. Or Skender Vakuf, as the town is still called by the people, but also on the vertical signalization, on the other side of Vlašić – “...I was a child, but I remember everything!”

Oh yes, the second time I got wet was just before meeting Rajko, right between the two bigger climbs on that first day.

With a few more glasses of pleasant, and sometimes less pleasant conversation, we waited for the storm to pass, so we continued. Uphill, of course. Riding a bike uphill is, obviously, the best way to reach zen mode. Even if you are loaded with a bunch of equipment heavier than you, and you even know that your ride will take days or weeks... Zen to Zenica!

Due to the rain and zen, we were a little late to Kneževo. When I say a little, I think we went deep into the night. A short break, then a roar through the winding canyon of Ugar! There aren’t a lot of man-made things in the whole canyon. Only one motel, though even two mini hydro power plants. Motel Kanjon is our accomodation for the night.

The smell of coffee and a cold foggy morning in the canyon, then an attempt to warm our knees downhill. Just as I got tired of warming my knees downhill, the terrain began to take the form of zen. Come on, Gostilj will pass. But before we reached this pass, we saw a “stećak” tomb. Which is not exactly a stećak. I mean it is, but it has a Communist five-point- ed star carved on itself. At least on one side. On the other, there is yin and yang. There is nothing on the third, but that is why there is everything on the fourth! We get closer: Milivoj Jambrišak, 1878-1943. Maybe call him “nećak” (nephew)? The last two sides didn’t interest us, since we didn’t climb on our nephew, and we didn’t dig him up for sure.

We crossed the Gostilj too. The wind blew a little louder. What awaits us on the other side of Vlašić?! –

26 ,,Da vam da Bog sreće i zdravlja svima! Ja ne mrzim nikoga. Jesam ja rođen đe džamije nema i ponosim se time. Al’ ja ne mrzim nikoga! Volim svoje, al’ poštujem tuđe.’’

Dok kontempliram nad ovim nesređenim i, eufemistički rečeno, višeznačnim mislima, nažalost opšteprihvaćenog narativa u nas, prisjećam se koliko sam puta pokis’o taj dan.

Budim se, pristavljam kavu. Kroz prozor, k’o da dan pokušava progledati, ali mu i ne ide baš najbolje. Mislim se, rano je, nije se razdanilo. Doručkujem, pakujem posljednje sitnice. Mrko, i dalje. Izlazim napolje i kačim bisage na bicikl. Gledam u sat, osam i trideset. Osam i trideset! Pogledom u nebo pokušavam se uvjeriti da je počeo dan. Pada mi kapljica u oko. Stidljivo pokušavam provjeriti prognozu. Počinje pljusak. Prognoza se učitava – kaže sunce. Sjedam na stepenice i padam u blagi očaj.

,,Moj je ćaća bio u partizanima. A sjećam se i ja onog rata...’’ - nastavlja starac Rajko, mješt- anin sela Tisovac u neposrednoj blizini Kneževa. Ili Skender Vakufa, kako se i dalje zove u narodu, ali i na vertikalnoj signalizaciji s druge strane Vlašića - ,, ...bio sam dijete, al’ se sjećam svega!’’

A da, drugi put sam pokis’o neposredno prije susreta sa Rajkom, a taman između dva veća uspona tog prvog dana.

Uz još koju čašicu prijatnog, a pokoju i manje prijatnog razgovora, sačekasmo da prođe oluja, pa nastavismo. Uzbrdo, naravno. Vožnja bicikla uzbrdo je, dakako, najbolji način za postizanje zena. Još ako ste natovareni gomilom opreme težom od vas, pa još i znate da će vam vožnja trajati danima ili sedmicama... Zenom do Zenice!

Zbog kiše i zena malo okasnismo u Kneževo. Kad kažem malo, mislim da smo debelo zašli u noć. Pauza kratka, pa tutanj niz vijugavi kanjon Ugra! U čitavom kanjonu nema baš puno stvari izgrađenih od strane čovjeka. Svega jedan motel, ali zato čak dvije mini hidro-elektrane. Motel Kanjon nam je konačište.

Miris kave i hladno maglovito jutro u kanjonu, pa pokušaj zagrijavanja koljena nizbrdo. Taman kad sam se umorio zagrijavajući koljena nizbrdo, teren je počeo dobijati formu zena. Ma ‘ajd’, proće se i Gostilj. No, prije nego dostigosmo do ovog prevoja, ugledasmo jedan stećak. Koji baš i nije stećak. Mislim, da je stećak - stećak je, al’ posjeduje urezbarenu i petokraku. Makar s jedne strane. S druge je jin i jang. Sa treće nema ništa, ali zato na čevrtoj ima svega! Priđemo bliže: Milivoj Jambrišak, 1878-1943. Možda da ga nazovemo ,,nećak’’? Posljednje dvije strane nas i nisu zanimale, budući da se na nećak nismo penjali, a nismo ga ni otkopavali.

Pređosmo i taj Gostilj. Vjetar je hučao nešto jače. Ma šta li nas to čeka s Druge strane Vlašića?!

27 Dino Alagić / Yes/Can / Može –

The old, out-of-tune bike is in optimal condition. The biker is in a seven-month corona - alcohol - cigarette condition. I would say, optimal for the spirit, but not for the body. A case for a doctor, not for a bike tour? Give up?

No, we’ll make it somehow.

Rain, wind, Vlasic mountain, snow. Yes!

Short sequences: Bicycle Equipment Store; fixing new brake pads; pedal replacement; David - 3,2,1, yes. The rumor about cyclists and one non-cyclist - it’s starting!

The first ascent on the way to the town of Kneževo. The soul and the body began the process of reconciliation - through the nose.

The soul is in the nose, the heart is in the throat, and my fuel is anger, frustration, lunch as a goal, hometown as a goal. One hundred and fifty kilometers of sadomasochism.

We are meeting people. We are meeting Rajko. Rajko says that the Germans are not good. Red gang is also bad. He was robbed of his land. And today his men took what little was left. No country for old Rajko. There is no black and no white. You should look for a bike. It’s starting to rain...

Somewhere in Vlašić’s womb, next to, under the road, we saw something that the drivers of four-wheelers - I can hardly see. A large stone block. Monument to an unknown hero. Communist five-pointed star and pagan symbols carved and reconciled in it. Year of death - 1943.

Good evening Kneževo! Goodbye Skender Vakuf! We descend towards the motel above the canyon of the river Ugar which has almost dried up due to small hydropower plants. The night... It’s cold... The wind blew away the tiredness... Ecstasy... The moonlight... It’s like flying on a broom... I’m coming to the motel completely crazy... A crazy smile on camera... I sing: Yugo wind will blow they say... Those who see...

Travnik kebab will, too.

Someone adds: Well people, we are just on the line of demarcation. But that... The dead line of demarcation. David says “YES”. My eyes are closing - instead of the clapboard two.

Fast sequences: Vlašić home; a giant serving of polenta; Agda spills over the mountains.

Andrić’s Travnik chronicle, Travnik cheese, Travnik kebab, “Travnik children are the worst”. And finally: my first Travnik awakening.

We go to Ivo Andrić’s birth house. Whose writer is Ivo Andrić? To save time for various writers - ideologues and answer: Ivo belongs to Katarina and Antun!

In front of the house, a welcoming and pleasant, but anonymous character meets us. He will take us to an Orthodox church whose restoration is being helped by both Muslims and Catholics. Some of them are probably parents of the children who go to two schools

28 under one roof. Fast sequence (black and white film): Consul von Mitterer is confused. And definitely worried.

We are located about ten meters from the fortress, in the Old Town - in Varoš Street. At the end of this street, at the intersection of three “mahala” roads, there is a building-house with one floor and an apartment, yellow and rundown. In 1942, a meeting of the Communist party of Travnik was held in this house, at which a decision was made to form the Travnik partisan brigade.

Time to move on...

I think that in the Travnik Chronicle there is a part when someone, in search of a good doctor, starts from Travnik on the way to a village called Zenica. Maybe he was riding a horse, over Guča Gora.

We prepared the bikes, and took the new road towards the monastery, from where we will descend to Zenica.

David says: YES!

Quick sequences: Sleeping in a hotel - in your city; a photograph of Gavrilo Princip in the museum; Industrial zone; soundtrack - “My city is burning (from boredom now)!”.

We have reached the goal. Zenica! Soul and body are reconciled. Without doctor’s help. –

Stari, raštimani bicikl je u stanju – optimalnom. Bajker je u sedam mjeseci korona alkohol cigarete stanju. Rekao bih, optimalnom za duh, ali ne i za tijelo. Slučaj za doktora, a ne za bajk - turu? Odustati?

Ne, pomirićemo se već nekako.

Kiša, vjetar, Vlašić, snijeg. Može!

Kratke sekvence: Prodavaonica biciklističke opreme; fiksiranje novih gumica za kočnice; zamjena pedala; David – 3,2,1, može. Fama o biciklistima i jednom nebiciklisti - počinje!

Prvi uspon na putu prema Kneževu. Duša i tijelo su otpočeli proces pomirenja – kroz nos.

Duša je u nosu, srce u grlu, a moje gorivo su bijes, frustracija, ručak kao cilj, rodni grad kao cilj. Stopedeset kilometara sadomazohizma.

Srećemo ljude. Srećemo Rajka. Rajko kaže da ne valjaju Švabe. Ne valja ni crvena banda. Zemlju su mu oteli. A danas mu i njegovi uzeše ono malo što je ostalo. No country for old Rajko. Nema crno i nema bijelo. Treba tražiti biciklom. Počela je kiša...

Negdje u utrobi Vlašića, pored, ispod ceste, ugledali smo nešto što vozači četverotočkaša – teško da mogu vidjeti. Veliki kameni kvadar. Spomenik neznanom junaku. U njemu uklesani i pomireni petokraka i paganski simboli. Godina pogibije – 1943.

Dobro veče Kneževo! Doviđenja Skender Vakuf! Spuštamo se prema motelu iznad kanjona rijeke Ugar koja je skoro presušila zbog malih hidrocentrala. Noć... hladno je... Vjetar je 29 oduvao umor... Ekstaza... Mjesečina... Kao da letim na metli... Potpuno lud dolazim pred motel... Ludački osmijeh u kameru... Pjevam: Jugo će kažu... Oni što vide...

Travnički ćevap će, isto.

Neko dobacuje: E ljudi, upravo se nalazimo na liniji razgraničenja. Al ono... Mrtvoj liniji razgraničenja. David kaže „MOŽE“. Kapci se zatvaraju – umjesto klape 2.

Brze sekvence: Vlašićka kuća; džinovska porcija pure; Agda se prelijeva preko planina.

Travnička hronika, travnički sir, travnički ćevap, „travnička djeca najgora“. I najzad: moje prvo travničko buđenje.

Odlazimo do rodne kuće Ive Andrića. Čiji je pisac Ivo Andrić? Da uštedimo vrijeme raznim književnicima – ideolozima, i ublehama takoreći, i odgovorimo: Ivo ti je bolan od Katarine i Antuna!

Ispred kuće nas startuje gostoljubiv i srdačan, ali anoniman lik. Odvesti će nas do pravoslav- nog hrama čiju obnovu pomažu i Muslimani i katolici. Neki od njih su vjerovatno roditelji djece koja idu u dvije škole pod jednim krovom. Brza sekvenca (crno-bijeli film): konzul fon Miterer je zbunjen. I obavezno zabrinut.

Smješteni smo desetak metara od tvrđave, u Starom gradu – u ulici Varoš. Na kraju ove ulice, na raskršću tri mahalske ceste, nalazi se zgradica-kuća sa jednim spratom i stanom, žuta i oronula. U ovoj kući održan je 1942. sastanak MK KPJ Travnik na kome je donesena odluka da se formira Travnički partizanski odred.

Vrijeme da se krene dalje...

Mislim da u Travničkoj hronici postoji dio kada neko, u potrazi za dobrim hećimom, kreće iz Travnika na put prema selu koje se zove Zenica. Možebit da je išao na konju, preko Guče Gore.

Spremili smo bajkonje, i novom cestom krenuli prema samostanu, odakle ćemo se spustiti do Zenice.

David kaže: MOŽE!

Brze sekvence: Spavanje u hotelu – u svom gradu; fotografija Gavrila Principa u muzeju; Industrijska zona; soundtrack – „Moj grad gori (od dosade sad)!“.

Stigli smo do cilja. Zenica! Duša i tijelo su pomireni. Bez hećimove pomoći.

30 Ivan Bojanić / BLkaravana –

It was Friday and it was raining. I left the apartment and came to the office, because we had previously agreed to leave at 9, but it was raining. As someone came to the canteen, the rain fell more and more, as if it would never end. At one point, it was no longer raining.

Around 11 we started pedaling with panniers, helmets, foods and goods. The crew members were Tiho, Redžo, Dino, Kaba and I. David was our companion and perpetuator of the journey, so he coordinated our journey through the city, to capture good shots and intro- ductory words. Watching Kaba nervously waiting for the formalisms to end as soon as possible, which didn’t happen, I began to wonder why they even existed. But if they didn’t exist, I wouldn’t be writing this now, nor would anyone read this later.

Well, we started pedaling right after leaving Banja Luka. Little by little, with a story and jokes, we passed Sheher and Novoselija and Jagare and Kajkuti in an instant, and in Karanovac we started to take a picture with a drone. By the way, we didn’t cross much there, maybe 12 kilometers. One would think that these settlements are divided, but essentially they are only delimited by name, so that the neighbors from the edges of these settlements could talk in disbelief about how they live door to door, and they are not in the same settlement.

David came, told us what to do, disappeared in front of us, we waited for a few minutes, passed through Karanovac, and met David again. And a drone shot it was! So we continued to pedal, climbing slowly towards Tisovac.

We climbed a nice slope, little by little, until we came to the cafe restaurant “Tiffany”. Since we left later, we replaced the planned breakfast at Tiffany’s with a Kaba’s brake for a cigarette, which David and Tiho used to continue the ride, so they could film us on the move at some later point. Point after point, we had passed fine views and landscapes and then we came to Tisovac, where we were almost caught in the rain. We sat there to eat ...

It was around two o’clock and it was raining. We walked out of the restaurant because we were supposed to continue riding, however, we were caught in the ‘machine’ of an old guy’s talk. He says he loves all faiths, but he hates them all too. He says he will say things to everyone in person, but not to tell anyone what he will tell us. In the same manner, we thought we will move, but were are not moving. Still, the time went by, so we were after him too. Just as we ate, listened to stories, it started to rain again. Moljac came to pick up David with a van, so they went by us in a van, and we slowly soaked up the raindrops on the slopes after Tisovac. We talked less because everyone caught their pace and we weren’t in a hurry.

We pedaled like that, lightly, until we reached the fountain before turning for Kostići. The fountain was located on the mountain pass, and the fountain name was “WHEEL”. Dino and I stopped our wheels on it, refreshed ourselves and waited for the rest of the team. We gathered, drank water, took a few shots and continued on our way to Kneževo. We were already close there, so we had a solid pace, as well we knew that we have a descent to the finish line. By the time we arrived in Kneževo, it was already dark. We didn’t stay there long because we didn’t have daylight and we couldn’t get around anything. It was the reason why Kaba was impatient this morning when we started.

31 At the exit from Kneževo, or Skender Vakuf, it was well dark. In front of us we were looking at a long and dark downhill with traffic in the announcement and a lack of light on the bikes. Above us were a clear starry sky and a few clouds. We went fast enough that you could feel us descending at the right speed and slow enough to see the sky and the experience it gives us. It may not have given to everyone, but to me it definitely did. It was my first time riding a bike in such an environment. Phenomenal.

After passing 8 kilometers of descent, holes, curves, and heads turning a bit into the sky, a bit towards the asphalt, we came to the final destination. Motel Canyon was just waiting for us, and we were waiting for its table. It was promising to me, and I wanted a squid for the dinner. In a misunderstanding with the waiter, he brought me barbecue meat, which I could not believe with my own eyes. In the previous days, I ate grilled meat almost every day, and that very day I decided to take a break from the grill, I couldn’t look at it with my eyes. Looks like the grill didn’t want to sway from me. We shared that meat among ourselves, and I contented myself with french fries and pork steak. That was enough to keep me from going to bed hungry.

The next morning was cold but sunny. With tea, breakfast, and coffee, we talked about Yugoslavia, generational differences, and things that we remember from Yugoslavia, or those who remember it personally told us. We also drew some psychological phenomena and philosophical theories through this story. It was a real morning conversation, the most suitable for breakfast and a nice start to the day. One thing was not nice, and that is the fact that I knew that after breakfast Tiho and I are going back to Banja Luka, while the rest of the team is moving on. We would both be sorry, but obligations are obligations.

On the way back, we quickly warmed up as we entered Kneževo. We crossed Kneževo with a story about human nature, looking at interesting billboards where we could find internal references. Passing by the fountain ‘’Wheel’’, we were caught in the rain, strong but short. If one of us (read - me) knew he had to stop, we wouldn’t get wet or drive in the rain, but we would stop and watch the rain clouds pass by and let us continue on our way. It seems that it had to be like that, and Tiho’s kidneys paid the price in the following days.

On the way back, the long part of the way was downhill, clear, neither steep nor gentle, mostly constant. Downhill is the part of riding in which there is not much story and in which a person thinks the most and absorbs data from his immediate surroundings - better said, he enjoys space and time. We stopped a little later to share some cookies. And when we arrived back in the city, we were treated to coffee and cakes, as we usually do after a good activity. A good activity is accompanied by good food, and good company. If, by any chance, I didn’t know that before I set off on this short tour, I would definitely be convinced of that in those two days. Fortunately, I experienced this much earlier.

Of course, this tour was much more than just pedaling and eating. What marked those two days were, of course, the new and old friends I spent time with, the experiences and jokes we shared, the sweets we shared, the coffee we drank, the tips I heard, the landscapes we saw, the things which we noticed. Although for me Balkaravana was more BLkaravana, it allowed me to discover a completely new view of the world around me, thanks to the moments I experienced in less than two days. –

Bio je petak i padala je kiša. Izašao sam iz stana i došao u kancelariju, jer smo se prethodno bili dogovorili da odatle krenemo u 9, ali je padala kiša. Kako je ko dolazio u kanc, tako 32 je kiša sve više i više padala, kao da joj nikad neće biti kraja. U jednom trenutku, kiša više nije padala.

Oko 11 smo krenuli pedalati sa bisagama, kacigama, ićem, pićem i dobrom voljom. Članovi posade su bili Tiho, Redžo, Dino, Kaba i ja. David je bio naš pratilac i ovjekovječilac putešestvija, stoga je kordinisao našom putanjom kroz grad, radi snimanja dobrih kadrova i uvodnih riječi. Gledajući Kabu kako nervozno čeka da se formalizmi što prije završe, što se nije desilo, počeo sam razmišljati zašto uopšte postoje. Ali da ne postoje, ja ne bih sada ovo pisao, niti bi neko ovo kasnije čitao.

Elem, krenusmo ti mi pravo pedalati nakon izlaska iz Banjaluke. Malo pomalo, uz priču i šale, prođosmo začas i Šeher i Novoseliju i Jagare i Kajkute i u Karanovcu stadosmo da snimimo kadar dronom. Inače, nismo mi ništa puno tu prešli, možda 12 kilometara. Pomislio bi čovjek da su ova naselja razuđena, no suštinski ona su samo imenima razgraničena, da bi komšije sa ivica ovih naselja mogli uz nevjericu pričati kako žive vrata do vrata, a nisu u istom naselju.

Dođe David, reče šta da radimo, nestade ispred nas, sačekasmo nekoliko minuta, prođosmo kroz Karanovac i nađosmo se ponovo sa Davidom. I bi dronski snimak! Tako smo nastavili dalje pedalati, penjući se polako ka Tisovcu.

Penjali smo se finim nagibom, malo po malo, dok nismo došli do kafe restorana „Tifani“. Obzirom da smo kasnije krenuli, planirani breakfast at Tiffany’s zamijenili smo Kabinom puš-pauzom, koju su David i Tiho iskoristili za nastavak vožnje, kako bi mogli snimiti nas u pokretu na nekom kasnijem punktu. Punkt za punktom, bili smo tako prošli fine poglede i krajolike i potom dođosmo u Tisovac, gdje nas je zamalo uhvatila kiša. Tu smo sjeli da jedemo...

Bilo je oko dva sata i padala je kiša. Izašli smo iz restorana, jer smo trebali nastaviti vožnju, ali nas je uhvatio jedan stari čiča u mašinu. Priča li, priča. Kaže, voli sve vjere, ali ih sve mrzi. Kaže, reći će svakome stvari u lice, ali da ne kažemo nikom. U istom maniru mi misli- mo da ćemo krenuti, ali ne krećemo. Ipak, vrijeme je išlo, pa smo i mi za njim. Taman što smo se najeli, naslušali priča i nasjedili, krenu opet kiša. Po Davida je došao Moljac sa kombijem, pa su oni išli kombijem kraj nas, a mi smo lagano upijali kišne kapi na poslijet- isovačkoj uzbrdici. Manje smo pričali jer je svako uhvatio svoj tempo i nismo žurili.

Pedalali smo ti mi tako, lagano, sve dok nismo došli do česme prije skretanja za Kostiće. Česma se nalazila na prevoju, i na česmi je pisalo „TOČAK“. Na njoj smo Dino i ja zaustavili svoje točkove, okrijepili se i sačekali ostatak ekipe. Skupili smo se, napili se vode, snimili smo nekoliko kadrova i nastavismo put Kneževa. Tu smo već bili blizu, pa smo imali i solidan tempo, jer smo znali da se možemo trošiti i da je spust do cilja (motela/prenoćišta) relativno blizu, i da nas čeka duža nizbrdica. Dok smo došli u Kneževo, već je bio pao mrak. Nismo se puno zadržavali tu, jer nismo imali dnevnog svjetla i nismo mogli ništa obići. Biće da je Kaba s razlogom bio nestrpljiv jutros kad smo kretali.

Na izlazu iz Kneževa, iliti Skender Vakufa, dobro je bio pao mrak. Ispred sebe smo gleda- li u dugu i mračnu nizbrdicu sa prometnim saobraćajem u najavi i manjkom svjetla na biciklima. Iznad nas je bilo vedro zvjezdano nebo i po koji oblačić. Išli smo dovoljno brzo da možeš osjetiti da se spuštamo odgovarajućom brzinom i dovoljno sporo da sagledamo nebo i iskustvo koje nam ono pruža. Možda nije pružilo svima, ali meni definitivno jeste. Bio mi je to prvi put da vozim bicikl u takvom okruženju. Fenomenalno.

33 Prošavši 8 kilometara spusta, rupa, krivina i glave okrenute čas u nebo, čas ka asfaltu koji pređeš narednog trenutka, došli smo do konačne destinacije. Motel Kanjon je čekao samo nas, a mi smo čekali njegovu trpezu. Meni je bio obećavajući, ali meni su se jele lignje. U nesporazumu sa konobarom, on mi je donio platu roštiljskog mesa, u šta nisam mogao da vjerujem svojim očima. Prethodnih dana sam jeo roštiljsko meso skoro svaki dan i baš taj dan sam odlučio da ohanem od roštilja, nisam ga mogao gledati očima. Izgleda da roštilj nije htio ohanuti od mene. Podijelili smo među sobom to meso, a ja sam se zadovoljio pomfritom i svinjskom šniclom. To je bilo dovoljno da ne legnem gladan spavati.

Iduće jutro je bilo hladno ali sunčano. Uz čaj, doručak i kafu smo pričali o Jugoslaviji, generacijskim razlikama i stvarima koje iz Jugoslavije pamtimo ili su nam, oni koji je se lično sjećaju, pričali. Kroz tu priču smo provukli i neke psihološke fenomene i filozofske teorije. Bio je to pravi jutarnji razgovor, najpodesniji za doručak i lijep početak dana. Jedna stvar tu nije bila lijepa, a to je činjenica da sam znao da poslije doručka Tiho i ja idemo nazad za Banjaluku, dok ostatak ekipe ide dalje. Obojici nam bi žao, no obaveze su obaveze.

U povratku smo se brzo zagrijali dok smo ulazili u Kneževo. Kneževo smo prebrodili uz priču o ljudskoj naravi, gledajući zanimljive bilborde u kojima smo mogli naći interne reference. Prolazeći kraj Točak česme, uhvatila nas je kiša, jaka, ali kratka. Da je neko od nas dvojice (čitaj - ja) znao da treba da stane, ne bismo pokisli niti bismo vozili po pljušči- ni, već bismo stali pričati i gledati kako kišni oblaci prolaze i puštaju nas da nastavimo svojim putem. Izgleda da je to moralo tako biti i Tihini bubrezi su narednih dana to njemu i naplatili, ni krivom ni dužnom.

U povratku je duži dio puta bila nizbrdica, jasna, ni strma, ni blaga, uglavnom konstantna. Nizbrdica je onaj dio vožnje u kom nema puno priče i u kom čovjek najviše razmišlja i upija podatke iz svoje neposredne okoline – ljepše rečeno, uživa u prostoru i vremenu. Stali smo kasnije malo i da zamezimo, častivši se starom dobrom „Domaćicom“. Poslije „Domaćice“, kada smo stigli nazad u grad, počastili smo se kafom i kolačima, kako to inače radimo nakon dobre aktivnosti. Uz dobru aktivnost ide i dobra hrana, a uz nju i dobro druženje. Da to, kojim slučajem, nisam znao prije nego što sam krenuo na ovu kratku turicu, u to bih se definitivno uvjerio za ta dva dana. Srećom, doživio sam to mnogo ranije.

Naravno, ova tura je bila i mnogo više od samog pedalanja i objedovanja. Ono što mi je obilježilo ta dva dana su, svakako, novi i stari prijatelji s kojima sam proveo vrijeme, iskust- va i šale koje smo razmjenjivali, slatkiši koje smo dijelili, kafa koju smo pili, savjeti koje sam čuo, pejzaži koje smo vidjeli, stvari koje smo primijetili. Iako je za mene Balkaravana više bila BLkaravana, omogućila mi je da otkrijem potpuno novi pogled na svijet oko sebe, zahvaljujući trenucima koje sam iskusio za nepuna dva dana.

34 Majda Ibraković / Cycling through the roadless landscapes of consciousness / Biciklom kroz bespuća pejzaža svijesti –

The long-awaited plan to bike with friends, the mountain trails that connect two cities dear to me - one where I live and the other, I come from, was suddenly interrupted by a sports injury that happened to me just shortly before our planned Balkaravana tour. Disappointment that I could not share kilometers of adventure, bike and socialize with them in the long run, I soon replaced with enthusiasm and plans to join them at least a few kilometers and in some locations where they planned to stay on their way from Banja Luka to Zenica.

That sunny September Saturday, we all met in the old part of Travnik, just below the fortress which they claim is one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Although I often passed through this place, always leaving enough time for Lutvo’s coffee and the sounds of Blue Water (as this time, among other things). As someone who comes from Zenica - a town close to Travnik, I still have not had the opportunity to experience the fortress. Therefore, meeting my cycling friends, right there and with a phenomenal sunset, retelling stories, and at the same time the frequencies and scenes of the Travnik chronicle, created a pleasant and somehow semi-exotic atmosphere for me.

Thinking about their travels, the adventures they experienced, the weather conditions, the reflection on how they managed to overcome curves and slopes, altitudes and kilometers traveled, I was pleasantly surprised by the overall enthusiasm - and the lack of lamenta- tions. It must be up to the bicycle, I thought, to create that feeling of gratitude, energy and freedom through the movements of the vastness, wilderness and cliffs of the Bosnian region at a time of a global lockdown and general health crisis that is slowly conquering this world.

I listened carefully, and somewhat (friendly) jealously, about their experiences on the way from Banja Luka to Travnik - however one thought came up and dominated the whole thought process. Pride! Because of the will and enthusiasm they had, especially because they drove in difficult conditions and terrain, accepting the circumstances and coping better than they could and planned.

Together, we commented on the mixed feelings that arose with passing through different environments in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and fell silent on any need for additional expla- nations. Simply because some things in Bosnia and Herzegovina cannot be explained. For example; Skender Vakuf and Kneževo - two places in one.

But let’s go back to the nonsilent.

The next day, we replaced the old Bosnian vizier’s ambience with a “modern” one - post-in- dustrialism. Although the three symbols of Zenica are its prison, ironworks and “Robijaši” (fans of football club Čelik) my cycling friends still noticed many more trees than they expected in this city, despite the metallurgical history. Riding a bike through Zenica and taking pictures from its deepest corners made me remember some of my own “street projects” from the angle of youthful rebellion expressed mainly on a bicycle - because a bicycle for me is a symbol of speed, independence, escape but also freedom and power.

35 Through stories about the origins of Zenica, the name, a visit to the museum and an inter- esting monologue and perspective of one of Zenica’s curators, I realized that we Zenica have this specialness - openness, warmth, and at the same time an inability to artificially elaborate the harsh reality around us. I realized that there is a slight bitterness in Zenica’s humor, with a metallic taste, probably representing that refined taste of a place doomed to raw metal and its products. Zenica somehow hardened and melted us at the same time, because we felt more connected towards the very end of the tour, which from the very beginning seemed to create and strengthen some acquaintances and connections, almost at the level of individual and collective liberation, reflection and acceptance of the horizons which, by the way, unprovoked, opened before us. –

Dugoočekivani plan da vrtim pedale zajedno sa prijateljima, planinskim stazama koje povezuju dva meni draga grada - jednog u kojem živim a drugog iz kojeg potičem, iznenada je prekinut sportskom povredom koja mi se desila nedugo prije naše planirane Balkaravane. Razočarenje što ne mogu podijeliti kilometre avanture, pedalanja i druženja sa njima na duže staze, ubrzo sam zamijenila entuzijazmom i planovima da im se pridružim makar na koji kilometar i na pojedinim lokacijama u kojima su se planirali zadržati na svom putu od Banja Luke do Zenice.

Te sunčane septembarske subote, sreli smo se svi u starom dijelu Travnika, tik ispod tvrđave za koju tvrde da je jedna od najbolje očuvanih srednjevjekovnih utvrda u BiH. Iako sam često prolazila kroz ovo mjesto, uvijek ostavljajući dovoljno vremena za Lutvinu kahvu i šumove Plave vode (kao i ovaj put, između ostalog), a kao neko ko dolazi iz Zenice - grada bliskog Travniku, ipak nisam dosada imala priliku da doživim tu istu tvrđavu. Stoga, susret sa prijateljima biciklistima, baš na tom mjestu i uz fenomenalan zalazak sunca, prepriča- vanja ciklo priča, te istovremene frekvencije i prizore travničke hronike, stvorio mi je neki prijatan i nekako poluegzotičan ambijent.

Razmišljajući o njihovom putešestviju, avanturi koji su doživjeli, vremenskim uvjetima, promišljajući kako su uspjeli savladati krivine i nagibe, nadmorske visine i pređene kilome- tre, ugodno sam se iznenadila sveukupnim entuzijazmom - i manjkom cikličnih žalopojki. Mora da je do bicikla, pomislih, i stvaranja tog osjećaja - zahvalnosti, energičnosti i slobode kroz kretanja bespućima, divljinama i vrletima bosanskog kraja u doba globalnog zatvaranja i sveopšte zdravstvene krize koja polako osvaja ovaj svijet.

Slušala sam pažljivo, i pomalo (prijateljski) zavidno, o njihovim iskustvima na putu iz Banja Luke do Travnika - međutim jedna misao se pojavila i dominirala u cijelom tom misaonom procesu. Ponos! Zbog volje i entuzijazma koji su imali, posebno jer su vozili po teškim uslovima i terenu, prihvatajući okolnosti i snalazeći se bolje nego što su mogli i planirali.

Zajedno smo komentarisali pomiješane osjećaje koji su se javili sa prolaskom kroz različite sredine u BiH, te zaćutali na bilo kakav poriv za dodatnim objašnjenjima. Prosto, jer se neke stvari u BiH i ne mogu objasniti. Kao na primjer; Skender Vakuf i Kneževo - dva mjesta u jednom.

No, da se vratimo na ono neprećutno.

Starobosanski vezirski ambijent sutradan zamijenismo modernim - postindustrijalizmom. Iako su tri simbola Zenice zatvor, željezara i Robijaši (fanovi NK Čelik) moji prijatelji biciklisti su ipak primijetili mnogo više drveća nego što su očekivali u ovom gradu, uprkos 36 metalurškom historijatu. Vožnja biciklom kroz Zenicu i snimanje kadrova iz njenih najdubljih ćoškova, učinila je da se sjetim i nekih vlastitih “uličnih projekata” iz ugla mladalačkog bunta iskazivanog uglavnom na biciklu - jer je bicikl za mene simbol brzine, neovisnoti, bijega ali upravo i slobode i moći.

Kroz priče o nastanku Zenice, imenu, posjetu muzeju i interesantnom monologu i perspek- tivi jednog od zeničkih kustosa, shvatila sam da mi Zeničani imamo tu neku posebnost - otvorenost, toplinu, i istovremeno neku nesposobnost da vještački uljepšavamo surovu realnost koja nas okružuje. Shvatila sam da u zeničkom humoru postoji i neka blaga gorčina, metalkastog okusa, predstavljajući valjda taj neki istančani okus jednog mjesta osuđenog na sirovi metal i njegove prerađevine. Pa i nas je ta Zenica nekako prekalila i istopila u isto vrijeme, jer smo se osjećali povezaniji pred sami kraj ture koja je od samog početka prijetila da će stvoriti i ojačati neka poznanstva i konekcije, gotovo na nivou individualnog i kolektivnog oslobođenja, promišljanja i prihvatanja horizonata koji su se, onako usput i ničim izazvani, otvorili pred nama.

37 Redžib Skomorac / Whose is Andrić, whose is Ivo? / Čiji je Andrić, čiji je Ivo? –

When I travel by bike, I travel through space and time.

One such trip, despite the coming autumn with its uncertain weather conditions, I had the opportunity to share with a few people who love the bike just as much. The idea was that, with the help of a bicycle, and with unavoidable inertia of life that only cycling gives you, we travel along some imaginary paths, roads and bridges, which we have yet to build. And, one of those roads was starting from the town on Vrbas river.

A heavy autumn shower, which fell just in the morning when we were planning our departure, only increased our desire to get on a journey together. Departing from Banja Luka, Vrbas, who was flowing from the direction we were heading, brought us his blue-green images painted by the inner Bosnia. While the rain and sun were constantly changing, we slowly came out of the valley, and soon found ourselves on the ascent to the northern slopes of mnt. Vlasic. It was a road to a place that has two names, and how a traveler calls it depends mainly on the side of Vlasic from which he climbed to it. In any case, the road to Knezevo and Skender Vakuf, from both sides, is equally demand- ing and rewarding. After a short break, road through a dense pine forest and sharp resin-flavored air, was replaced with a rapid descent to the canyon of Ugar river, whose course we continued to follow until the re-ascent to Vitovlje. Almost passing through this small mountain village on Vlasic, we discovered traces of some new Bogumils. It turned out that painter Lazar Drljaca was not the last of this kind. Another was also his contemporary fellow, dr. Milivoj Jambrisak, whom, since he died in this remote place while coming back from Jajce in winter of 1943, a ‘stecak’ tomb of amazing aesthetics was erected on the site.

Contemplation of this discovery was somewhat hampered by the fact of climbing to the Gostilj plateau and breaking through Vlasic’s fog and rain. However, when we finally dealt with this mountain, we were left with only a long and rather cold descent, all the way to Travnik, where we spent that and the next day. Although short on time, in this town on Lasva river, we still managed to rediscover almost every corner of this Andric’s town, as well as some information about the Nobel Prize winner from an endless source of information of a custos. It turns out that this city, no matter how small it was, left perhaps the deepest imprint on the young author, but also unnecessarily - but, perhaps, much more on us than the author - prompted the internal question of belonging and the paradox of identity. Ivo is Andric, regardless of who, or in which language or script, reads him.

Immediately after leaving Travnik, of course, accompanied by a light rain, I decided to suggest a small “detour”. We set off for Guca Gora. A side road meandered through the valleys through an almost Tuscanesque landscape, and led us to the center of this area. In Guca Gora we rested in the courtyard of an old Bosnian monastery, where, although it seemed completely deserted, we could still imagine old priests saving memories of old times from oblivion, in their simply decorated rooms.

After a short descent into the valley of Bila river, there was still one last climb that we had to overcome before descending to the finish of this short bike journey. At the top 38 of the climb once again we said goodbye to mnt. Vlasic, who now proudly stood in the distance, while Zenica, its red horizon, hardened air, friends nad memories were inviting us for plans of some oncoming travels - on roads of the Balkans, perhaps. –

Kad putujem biciklom, tad putujem kroz prostor i vrijeme.

Jedno takvo putovanje sam, unatoč nadolazećoj jeseni i sa njom neodlučnim vremenskim prilikama, imao priliku podijeliti sa nekolicinom ljudi kojima je bicikl jednako drag. Bila je to ideja da uz pomoć bicikla, i uz tu neizbježnu inerciju života koju vam samo putovanje biciklom pruža, putujemo nekim zajedno zamišljenim stazama, putevima i mostovima, koje tek treba da izgradimo. A jedan od tih puteva kretao je iz grada na Vrbasu.

Jaka jesenja kiša, koja je pala baš na jutro kada smo planirali naš polazak, tek je samo dodatno povećala naše želje da krenemo na zajednički put. Zaputivši se tako iz Banjaluke, Vrbas, koji je doticao iz pravca prema kojem smo se kretali, donosio nam je svoje modro zelene slike koje je naslikala unutrašnjost Bosne. Dok su se kiša i sunce neprestano smjen- jivali, polako smo izlazili iz banjalučke doline, i već ubrzo se našli na usponu ka sjevernim padinama Vlašića. To je bio put ka mjestu sa dva naziva, a kako ga putnik zove je ovisilo uglavnom od toga sa koje strane Vlašića se do njeg penje. Bilo kako bilo, put do Kneževa i do Skender Vakufa, i sa jedne i sa druge strane je jednako i zahtjevan i nagrađujući. Nakon kratkog odmora, put kroz gustu borovu šumu i britak zrak sa okusom smole, zamije- nili smo sa brzim spustom do kanjona Ugra, čiji tok smo nastavili da pratimo do ponovnog uspona na Vitovlje. Skoro prošavši kroz ovo malo planinsko naselje na Vlašiću, otkrili smo tragove nekih novih Bogumila. Ispostavilo se da Lazar Drljača nije posljednji od takvih. Bio je to i njegov suvremenik, dr. Milivoj Jambrišak, kojem su, pošto je u zimu 1943. godine u povratku iz Jajca preminuo u ovom skrajnutom mjestu, tu dali izgraditi stećak posebne estetske vrijednosti.

Kontemplaciju o ovom otkriću donekle je otežavala činjenica penjanja do platoa Gostilja i probijanja kroz vlašićku maglu i kišu. Međutim, kad smo se konačno obračunali sa Vlašićem, ostao nam je još samo dug i prilično hladan spust, sve do Travnika u kojem smo proveli taj i naredni dan. Iako u stisci sa vremenom, u gradu na Lašvi smo ipak uspjeli ponovno da otkrijemo skoro svaki ćošak ovog andrićevskog grada, kao i pokoji podatak o samom nobelovcu iz nepresušne sehare znanja jednog kustosa. Ispostaviće se da je ovaj grad, koliko god on tijesan bio, na mladog autora ostavio možda i najdublji pečat, ali i nepotreb- no - no, možda mnogo više nas nego autora - ponukao na unutrašnje pitanje pripadanja i paradoksa identiteta. Ivo je Andrić, ma ko ga na kojem jeziku ili pismu čitao.

Odmah po izlasku iz Travnika, naravno, ispraćeni blagom kišom, odlučio sam da predložim mali “detour”. Krenuli smo put Guče Gore. Sporedni put je između dolina vijugao skoro toskanškim krajolikom, i vodio nas do središta ovog kraja. U Gučoj Gori smo odmorili u dvorištu ovog starog bosanskog samostana, u kojem smo, iako je potpuno pusto djelovao, ipak mogli zamisliti stare fratre kako u svojim asketski uređenim sobama perom otimaju sjećanja od zaborava.

Nakon kratkog spusta u dolinu Bile, ostao je bio još posljednji uspon koji smo trebali savladati prije silazka do cilja ovog kratkog dvotočkaškog proputovanja. Na vrhu uspona smo se još jednom pozdravili sa Vlašićem, koji je već gordo stajao u daljini, dok nam se u podnožju smješila Zenica, njen crveni horizont, prekaljeni vazduh, prijatelji, uspomene i planovi nekih novih zajedničkih proputovanja – možda putevima Balkana, za početak. 39 ESSAYS / MONTENEGRO / CRNA GORA

40 Duško Vuković + Brano Božović / A Balkan Essay in decasyllable / Balkaravanski esej u desetercu –

Harambasha Dejo ordered an essay to be written. Can it be a decasyllable, Dushko and Brano asked in one voice.

Yes, said Harambasha, and the two of them took him seriously.

(fiddle sound)

Let me ask you, my dear friend: Who is moving from Vir Pazar, Towards Rumia, the great hill, leaving no trace behind nor leaving the unpleasant smell? That’s, my good brother, a small company from Balkaravana. Lead by Dejan Tofčević, no flaw wherever he’s saw. Behind him, young Dabetić steps, handsom David slender as a pine. Next to him is Ivana the girl, with the angels hiden in the surname. There are two experienced characters in the company: Božović Brano, the pride of his kin, and Vuković Duško from Merulja, each measured the field with a light foot and a sharp look. They are followed by drones and cameras in the hands of two masters named Damir Krpuljević And Nikola from Martinović family. They set off, friend, They head to Ulcinj on the blue sea, To Rumija, miraculous mountains, that loves all of its children equally, not looking at religion, nor nation, but how many valor each one has. But listen to me, dear brother, they will not rest in Ulcinj, where the angry pirate spent the winter 41 where Cervantes was a slave, they will head to Boka, to embrace the bride of the Adriatic and pray to her saints for everyone in the white world who presses the pedal with his foot and celebrates pure aria. I already see them in the glorious Perast, from where it is the most beautiful to observe the lovely Our Lady of Skrpjela. From there they sailed on sails the seas along and across. They passed famous Kotor, to whom Lovćen guards the hinterland, and they rested a little in Prčanj to bow down to Don Luković Niko which perpetuates in front of the cathedral for which Franjo Josip said ’ that she has no flaws Just like in the middle of emperors Vienna. Well, the brotherhood didn’t settle down there either, but headed towards Luštica at sea to play their wheels a little looking at curls of the waves. When the brotherhood was satisfied, It turned the wheels towards the hill, the path of the Lovćen sides and Njeguš where came Petrović Rade and his work immortal Gorski vijenac, past all other wreaths. Brotherhood doesn’t stop here either, but Čevo is not left forgotten, It wants to see how flat it is, hell, wants to see how heroic it is. Is it true that Vukotić Vuk has good cheese and prosciutto, for heroes of good sustenance. And Ulcinj was quite lonely, he received a dose of happiness, When the heroes visited him, and salted their bicycles, 42 on the blue sea shore. Where they’d seen children and the heroes Everybody close to everybody Hugging kissing, asking for ones health. There is where I left them, my friend, in good health and joy, which I wish you forever, and to anyone who thinks of good.

– Harambaša Dejo naredi da se piše esej. Može li u desetercu, upitaše Duško i Brano uglas. Može, reče harambaša, a njih dvojica ga shvatiše ozbiljno.

(zvuk gusala)

Da te pitam, mio pobratime: Ko se ono s Vir Pazara kreće, put Rumije, brda golemoga, iza sebe ne ostavljajuć traga nit’ mirisa kakvog neugodnog? Ono ti je, moj predobri pobro, družba mala iz Balkaravana. Na čelu joj Dejan Tofčeviću, nema mane gdje god da zastane. Iza njega mlad Dabetić stupa, momak David vitak ko jelika. Pokraj njega Ivana đevojka, što anđele u prezime skriva. U družbi su dva iskusna lika: Božoviću Brano, rodu dika, i Vuković Duško iz Merulje, što su svako premjerili polje lakom nogom i oštrim pogledom. Njih ti prate droni i kamere u rukama dvojice meštara po imenu Damir Krpuljević I Nikola od Martinovića. Oni su se zaputili, pobro, Put Ulcinja na moru sinjemu, Pro Rumije, čudesne planine, što jednako svoju čeljad ljubi, 43 ne gledajuć vjeru, nit naciju, no koliko ko čojstva imade. No, čuj mene, pobrašine dragi, konak njima nije u Ulcinju, đe je gusar ljuti zimovao đe Servantes, sužanj njihov bješe, no će oni put Boke oditi, da obgrle nevjestu Jadrana i njenim se svecima pomole za svakoga na bijelom sv’jetu koji nogom pritiska pedalu i čistoj se ariji raduje. Već ih vidim u Perastu slavnom, odakle je najljepše motriti na lijepu Gospu od Škrpjele. Otole se na jedra plovilo po morima uzduž i popr’jeko. Slavni Kotor eno razminuše, kome Lovćen zaleđinu čuva, i u Prčnju malo počinuše da s’ poklone Don Luković Niku što vjekuje ispred katedrale za koju je Franjo Josip reka’ da joj mane nikakove nema taman da je u sred caskoga Beča. No, ni tu se družina ne skrasi, no se lati Luštice pri moru da točkove malo razigrava gledajući grive od talasa. Kad se družba mora zasitila, točkove je brdu okrenula, put lovćenskih strana i Njeguša đe poniče Petroviću Rade i njegovo djelo besamrtno Gorski vijenac, mimo vjence druge. Al se ni tu družba ne ustavi, no joj Čevo s uma ne silazi. Hoće viđet koliko je ravno, ada, čoče, je li i junačko. Jel’ kod onog Vukotića Vuka ima dobrog sira i pršute, 44 za junake od dobre nafake. I Ulcinj je dosta samovao, pak je svoju sreću dočekao, da junaci njega vizitaše, i bicikle svoje osoliše, na morskome žalu plavetnome. Đe viđeše čeljad i junake da se svako sa svakijem druži grla grle u lice se ljube, za junačko pitaju se zdravlje. Tu sam ti ih pobro ostavio, u dobrome zdravlju i veselju, što i tebi želim dovijeka, i svakome ko o dobru misli.

45 David Dabetić –

Balkaravana is a project on multiculturalism, in which I was part of the team. This project is designed to explore the Montenegrin coast by bicycle and show each multicultural environ- ment in its best light, and to get to know something different from what we are used to in our everyday environment.

On the first day, we set off from Podgorica towards Bar, via Ostros, but we also passed through Virpazar, Godinje, Gluhi do, Mačuga. Since the rain bothered us a bit that morning, we drove from Podgorica to Virpazar, and then we pedaled from Vizpazar all the way to Vladimir, with perfect weather. We passed by Skadar Lake most of the way, which looked enchanting from our pedaling positions. Already tired from the long drive where we scratched Ulcinj a little bit, we continued by car towards Tivat.

On the second day, in the early morning hours, we set off on the road around the Bay of Kotor. We crossed the ferry from Lepetan to Kamenar, and pedaled back through the bay with the amazing scenery that Boka owns. We stopped in Risan, and then visited the wonderful museum in Perast. We were also in the old town of Kotor, the church of St. Luke, the church of St. Mary the College and the church of St. Nicholas in Perast. As the day was ending, we approached our return to the hotel. That day was certainly amazing because except for a few drops in Risan, the whole time we were accompanied by nice weather.

On the third day, we headed to Lustica, a peninsula that belongs to the municipality of Tivat, and which is full of beautiful places hidden in the depths of the peninsula. Žanjice is one of the many fishing places, which tourists usually come to by boat or yacht, rich in many natural beauties, and it did not leave me indifferent either. On the way back we stopped at Blue Horizons, a beach located not far from Lustica Bay Resort. There we had the opportu- nity to bathe in very pleasant water, which was surprisingly warm for this time of year. That day was quite demanding physically, given that most of the way it was a constant uphill, but on the way back it was paradise because every uphill has its downhill.

On the fourth day, we headed back to Podgorica and Ulcinj, through Njeguše, then across Čevo. That day was certainly the most demanding physically, after the exhausting day that preceded it, which also had quite a constant climb. An amazing view of the Bay of Kotor was when we passed the famous Njeguš serpentines, 25 of them, each of which had an irresistible view of the Bay of Kotor and places tucked away on its shores.

Since we remained obliged to Ulcinj, we returned to it, drove around and around the famous beaches of the South Adriatic, where, as in Boka, we saw religious and multiethnic harmony that guarantees us a carefree future in Montenegro.

I returned home full of impressions from this trip and I hope that there will be opportunities to participate in the Balkaravana or something similar one day.

–

Balkaravana je projekat o multikulturalnosti,u kojem sam bio dio ekipe. Ovaj projekat je osmišljen da se biciklima obiđe crnogorsko primorje i prikaže svaka multikulturalna sredina u svom najboljem svijetlu, te da se upoznamo sa nečim drugačijim od onoga na šta smo navikli u našem svakodnevnom okruženju. 46 Prvog dana smo krenuli iz Podgorice ka Baru, preko Ostrosa, ali do njega prođosmo i kroz Virpazar, Godinje, Gluhi do, Mačuge. S obzirom da nam je toga jutra malo zasmetala kiša, od Podgorice do Virpazara smo se prevezli kolima, a onda smo od Vizpazara sve do Vladimira pedalali, uz savrseno vrijeme. Prolazili smo pored Skadarskog jezera većinom puta, koji je izgledao očaravajuće sa naših pedalaških pozicija. Već umorni od duge vožnje gdje smo zagrebali Ulcinj, nastavili smo automobilila ka Tivtu.

Drugog dana smo, u ranim jutarnjim časovima, krenuli na put oko Boke Kotorske. Prešli smo trajektom od Lepetana do Kamenara, i pedalali nazad kroz zaliv uz nevjerovatne pejzaže koje Boka posjeduje. Svratismo u Risan, a potom posjetismo i divni muzej u Perastu. Bili smo i u starom gradu u Kotoru, crkvi Svetog Luke, crkvi Svete Marije Koleđate i crkvi Svetog Nikole u Perastu. Kako je odmicao dan, tako smo se i mi bližili povratku u hotel. Taj dan je bio svakako nevjerovatan jer osim nekoliko kapi u Risnu svo čitav put nas je pratilo lijepo vrijeme.

Trećeg dana smo se uputili ka Luštici, poluostrvu koje pripada opštini Tivat, a koje obiluje prelijepim mjestima sakrivenim u dubini poluostrva. Žanjice je jedno od mnogih ribarskih mjesta, do kojeg turisti najčešće dolaze brodićima ili jahtama, a koje je bogato mnogim prirodnim ljepotama, i koje ni mene nije ostavilo ravnodušnim. U povratku smo svratili na Plave horizonte, plažu koja se nalazi nedaleko od Luštica Bay Resort-a. Tu smo imali priliku da se okupamo u vrlo prijatnoj vodi, koja je bila iznenađujuće topla za ovo godišnje doba. Taj dan je bio dosta zahtjevan fizički, s obzirom da je veći dio puta bio kostantna pedenca, ali je u povratku zato bio raj jer svaka uzbrdica ima i svoju nizbrdicu.

Četvrtog dana, krenuli smo nazad za Podgoricu i Ulcinj, kroz Njeguše, pa preko Čeva. Taj dan je bio zasigurno najzahtjevniji fizički, posle iscrpljujućeg dana koji je predhodio, a koji je takođe imao dosta konstantnog uspona. Takođe je nevjerovatan pogled na Bokokotorski zaliv bio kada smo prolazili poznatim njeguškim serpentinama, njih 25, sa kojih je svaka imala neodoljiv pogled na Boku Kotorsku i mjesta ušuškana na njenim obalama.

Pošto smo ostali dužni Ulcinju vratili smo mu se, provozali po okolini i čuvenim plažama Južnog Jadrana, gdje smo kao i u Boki vidjeli vjerski i multietnički sklad koji nam garantuje bezbrižnu budućnost u Crnoj Gori.

Kući sam se vratio pun utisaka sa ovog putovanja i nadam se da će biti mogućnosti da nekada ponovo učestvujem u Balkaravani ili nečemu sličnom.

47 Dejan Tofčević / Balkaravana for the first time / Balkaravana po prvi put –

From an outer perspective, it always seems that something is easier to organize than it actually is. Apart from the cancellation of the candidate at the last moment, the weather was not on our side either, because the Ministry of the Interior announced a red weather alarm for the day when we planned to leave, so we postponed our departure for one day. As a precaution, we decided to start with two cars, although the weather forecast for the previous days was better.

And that September 28th came. It was raining cats and dogs. Somehow we packed up and drove to Virpazar, and another God was there. The heavens seemed to know our inten- tion, so the weather appeared to us exactly the way cyclists like it, neither hot nor cold. But before we started, we found out that our new friend - Ivana had a flat tire. Brano, our technical support, immediately intervened and solved the problem in an hour. Well, let’s start driving through Crmnica, stopping here and there, watching this and that because there are a lot of details and landscapes that my companions didn’t see. We, a little older part of the team, have passed here many times and wanted to introduce Ivan and David to everything it has been known to us so far. We took a break above Murić, more from the cameraman than from the hard tour because we are all well prepared for the ride, and that bothered me quite a bit because it could have been a real problem. We talked about the monasteries on the hills and the tradition that exists next to the Muslim village and about the cross that is taken to Rumija and is kept by the Islamic family Adrović. We continued towards Livari, but while we were gathering at the last sightseeing place, it started to rain. We put on our rain clothes for an hour and slowly continued through the forest of huge chestnuts that are hundreds of years old. In Ostros, we stopped for the best coffee, which is always more pleasant here than elsewhere. After Ostros, we climbed the Stegvaš pass, from where you can see Skadar Lake, the cities of Shkodra and Podgorica, and there in the distance the Adriatic Sea into which Bojana flows. The descent to Vladimir is always memorable, even this time. There we were greeted by dusk and the announcement of showers, so we boarded the cars in time and set off for Tivat.

In the following days, we were luckier with the weather, so we made a planned tour of the Bay of Kotor. We crossed the ferry from Lepetan to Kamenar unsatisfied because in the past few years there has been a charge for cyclists. We continued the circular tour to the Sopot waterfall, which can only be seen until the underground siphons in the depths of Orjen are emptied. In Risan, we were caught in the rain, but we found shelter in a local cafe. When the weather improved, we continued to nearby Perast and its museum where we spent a pleasant time getting to know the multi-confessional place and its exciting history. Namely, on the coat of arms of Peraška there is a cross-holding two hands - Catholic and Orthodox.

Not far from Perast is the old town of Kotor, well known for its multiconfessionalism, multi- culturalism and coexistence of different religions, nations and mentalities. After a walk around the old town, we continued to Stoliv where we visited the palace of Tre Sorela and talked about the legend for which it is famous. After that, our next stop was the Church of the Holy Mother of God in Prčanj, where Don Niko Luković, a well-known supporter of the Yugoslav idea, served. We also visited the local cemetery where both religions that live here are buried. Just before dark, we finished the tour at the hotel.

48 We also cycled on the Lustica peninsula, where there are only six villages and it is very sparsely populated, especially at this time of year. The rich tradition and hard life in this waterless area have given specific architecture, as well as numerous Orthodox temples, the oldest of which is from the end of the 12th century and is considered one of the oldest in Montenegro. We traveled the mainland and did not descend to the famous beaches because it required great effort due to the large hills. At the end of the day, we stopped at Tivat’s Solila, an area protected due to the nesting of birds that can be observed here. Twilight found us on Kalardovo beach and the night again at the hotel.

We climbed over the Boka over the Trojica pass and the famous Njeguš serpentines, enjoy- ing the beautiful landscapes that attract tourists from all over the world. We rested on Krsac and went down to Njegoš’s birth house and Bukovica, and then continued our journey.

On the last day, we visited Ulcinj, drove around it a bit and enjoyed this oriental town, the first in the South Adriatic. The famous pirate town that robbed ships entering the Adriatic Sea through the Straits of Otranto. The town of Balšić, Cervantes, Shabataj Cevi and the famous saltworks Bajo Sekulić, which is the largest bird nesting ground in this part of Europe. The next day we returned to Podgorica by car, which ended the tour.

–

Gledajući spolja uvek se čini da je nešto lakše organizovati nego što to u stvarnosti jeste. Sem otkazivanja kandidata u poslednjem trenutku, na našoj strani nije bilo ni vreme jer je MUP najavio crveni meteo alarm za dan kada smo planirali polazak, pa smo ga odložili za jedan dan. Iz predostrožnosti odlučismo da krenemo sa dva automobila iako je vremenska prognoza za prethodne dane bila povoljna.

I dođe taj 28. septembar. Kiša je lila kao iz kabla. Mi se nekako spakovasmo i kolima odosmo do Virpazara, a tamo je bio drugi Bog. Nebesa kao da su znala našu nameru pa nam se vreme ukaza baš onakvo kakvo biciklisti najviše vole ni toplo, niti hladno. Ali pre nego što kretosmo ustanovismo da je našoj novoj drugarici - Ivani izduvana guma. Odmah je Brano, tehnička podrška, intervenisao i rešio problem za tili čas. Elem, započesmo vožnju Crmnicom svraćajući tu i tamo, gledajući ovo i ono jer mnogo je detalja i pejsaža koje moji saputnici nisu videli, a mi, malo stariji deo ekipe smo ovuda već dosta puta prolazili i želeli Ivanu i Davida da upoznamo sa svime što je nama do sada bilo poznato. Iznad Murića napravismo odmor, više od snimatelja, nego od naporne ture jer smo svi dobro pripremljeni za vožnju, a to me je prilično mučilo jer je moglo biti realan problem. Popričasmo o manastirima na goricama i toj tradiciji koja postoji pored muslimanskog sela i o krstu koji se iznosi na Rumiju a čuva se kod islamske porodice Adrović. Nastavismo ka Livarima, ali dok smo se prikupljali na poslednjem vidikovcu poče kiša. Časom navukosmo kišnu odeću i lagano nastavismo kroz šumu ogromnih kestenova starih više stotina godina. U Ostrosu svratismo na najbolju kafu koja ovde uvek prija više nego na drugom mestu. Posle Ostrosa se popesmo na prevoj Stegvaš, odakle se vidi Skadarsko jezero, gradovi Skadar i Podgorica i tamo u daljini Jadransko more u koje se uliva Bojana. Spust do Vladimira je uvek za pamćenje, pa i ovaj put. Tamo nas dočeka sumrak i najava pljuskova, pa se na vreme ukrcasmo u automobile i otisnusmo put Tivta.

Narednih dana smo imali više sreće sa vremenom pa smo napravili planiranu turu po Boki Kotorskoj. Trajektom od Lepetana do Kamenara smo prešli nezadovoljni jer se proteklih nekoliko godina naplaćuje i za bicikliste. Nastavili smo kružnu turu do vodopada Sopot koji se može videti samo dok se ne isprazne podzemni sifoni u dubini Orjena. U Risnu nas je uhvatila kiša, ali smo našli sklonište u jednoj lokalnoj kafani. Kada se vreme popravilo 49 nastavili smo do obližnjeg Perasta i njegovog muzeja gde smo proveli ugodno vreme upoznavajući se sa multikonfesionalnim mestom i njegovom uzbudljivom istorijom. Naime, na peraškom grbu se nalazi krst koji drže dve ruke – katolička i pravoslavna.

Nedaleko od Perasta se nalazi i stari grad Kotor, dobro poznat po multikonfesionalnosti, multikulturalnosti i suživotu različitih religija, nacija i mentaliteta. Nakon šetnje po starom gradu, produžili smo do Stoliva gde smo posjetili palatu Tre Sorele i razgovarali o legen- di po kojoj je poznata. Posle toga sljedeća stanica nam je bila crkva Svete Bogorodice u Prčnju gdje je službovao Don Niko Luković poznati pobornik jugoslovenske ideje. Posetili smo i mesno groblje na kojem se sahranjuju obe konfesije koje ovdje žive. Pred sami mrak smo turu završili u hotelu.

Biciklirali smo i po poluostrvu Luštica na kojem se nalazi svega šest sela i veoma slabo je naseljeno, naročito u ovo doba godine. Bogata tradicija i težački život u ovom bezvodnom kraju su dali i specifičnu arhitekturu, kao i brojne pravoslavne hramove od kojih je najstariji iz kraja 12. veka i smatra se jednim od najstarijih u Crnoj Gori. Putovali smo kontinentalnim delom i nismo se spuštali do poznatih plaža jer je to zahtevalo izuzetan napor zbog velikih strmina. Na kraju dana smo svratili na tivatska Solila, područje zaštićeno zbog gnežđenja ptica koje se ovde mogu posmatrati. Suton nas je zatekao na plaži Kalardovo a noć opet u hotelu.

Preko prevoja Trojica i čuvenim njeguškim serpentinama smo se popeli iznad Boke uživa- jući u prekrasnim pejsažima koji ovde privlače turiste iz celog sveta. Odmorili smo se na Krscu i pored Njegoševe rodne kuće i Bukovice spustili u Čevo, a potom nastavili naš put.

Poslednjeg dana smo posetili Ulcinj, provozali se malo po njegovoj okolini i uživali u ovoj orijentalnoj varoši, prvoj na Južnom Jadranu. Čuvenom gusarskom gradu koji su pljačkali brodove što su ulazili u Jadransko more kroz Otrantska vrata. Gradu Balšića, Servantesa, Šabataja Cevija i čuvenoj solani Bajo Sekulić, koja je najveće gnezdilište ptica u ovom delu Evrope. Sutradan smo se automobilski vratili u Podgoricu čime smo okončali turu.

50 Ivana Anđelić / The caravan of our days / Balkaravana naših dana –

The invitation to cycle through the fairytale landscapes, over the mountains to the sea and back, all on two wheels, looked like at the start of a real adventure that no decent cyclist should miss. When a diverse team is added to all this, rich in spirit and a natural sense of humor and good mood, then it is unnecessary to say that the bad weather in the announce- ment could not jeopardize the euphoria of this trip.

We started from Virpazar, on the old road towards Bar and Ulcinj. The picturesque landscape and authentic rural architecture promoted in front of us, so the climbs on this part of the road to Ostros were easier for our feet to bear, although we connected the height difference of some 480 meters to the Stegvas pass on the border with Albania. Driving along the hills that stretch along the shores of Skadar Lake, the largest crypto-depression in the Balkans, attractive scenes of the archipelago of tiny lake islands, the so-called hills, alternated in front of us. Dispersed like marbles along the coast, with the remains of ancient walls and monasteries, they create a fairytale scene that exudes the spirit of some past times, culture and history of this region. A break from pedaling, to gather strength, exchange impressions and refreshments for the further continuation of the journey, inevitably means stopping at local specialties in Seoci. The hospitality of the locals, the welcoming spirit and the willing- ness to share a local legend or anecdote recharge the batteries to continue the journey. Ignoring the rain that accompanied us in one part of the road through the chestnut forest towards Ostros, the first larger Albanian village in Krajina, just to be noticed. We shared with the locals’ information about the trip and memories of some of us, with the best espres- so in this part of the world. Although the rain was threatening, we successfully climbed to Stegvaš and rolled downhill to Vladimir. Leaving behind the lake and the mountains, we reached the Adriatic coast.

The second day was reserved for relaxing cycling in the Bay of Kotor. From Tivat, across Lepetan, there were several coastal towns, Risan, Perast, Kotor, Stoliv, Prčanj and again Tivat, closing the circle around “our dear Boka, the bride of the Adriatic”. “Sea of lead and sky of pine” under control by the mountain massifs of Lovćen and Orijen, fascinates with its beauty and easily grows on the heart without you feeling it at first. Almost every building along the lower road that follows the coastline is a memorial of the rich cultural and historical heritage of Boka, created for centuries under various influences by both Venetians and Austro-Hungarians. Both east and west. What closeness, what distance. A visit to the Maritime Museum in Perast opened the door to those past times so that with very little effort we could imagine ourselves boarding Captain Zmajević’s sailboat with all our bicycles and imprinting ourselves on the thick sea. The ancient city of Kotor, with its imposing walls, protected by UNESCO as a world cultural heritage, demanded a break for the best coconut ice cream in one of the many city squares, tucked under the walls of Saint-Giovanni. On the other side of the bay we were greeted by the palace of Tre Sorele from the XV century with one in a series of many legends of this area, about the unhappy love of three sisters, each of whom was in love with the same man, a sailor who never returned from the open sea. Driving through the bay left the impression that we were not only cycling through landscapes that changed like on a track in a factory and fascinated our eyes but also through time woven and intertwined with different human destinies and the influences of small and large forces. Peoples and religion.

51 On the third day of our cycling trip, we turned to the other side of the bay and headed to the Lustica peninsula. The road was wavy, but the demanding rise from Krašić later rewarded us with a good descent to the other side of the peninsula with a beautiful view of the green hills overgrown with pomegranate and century-old olive groves, beyond which opens the vast azure expanse of the sea. We stopped along the way to try some of the gifts of nature that were offered to us on both sides of the road, so some of us, I mean myself, tried the “makinje” for the first time - the wild fruits of the Mediterranean. At the end of the circular tour around the peninsula, at the very end of the day, we passed through the Solila Nature Reserve, so we tried a little part of the macadam road to the beach Kalardovo where we saw the sunset in unreal colors.

On the last day of our tour, we had to start the hike on the hills towards Ulcinj again, guard- ing the bay and overcoming 25 serpentines from Trojica to Njegusi, for a start. It was not difficult for us to undertake that endeavor as expected, given the unrealistically beautiful view of the bay from different angles, as we moved for a turn. On Njeguši, I took a break in the first tavern, where, in addition to brandy, we will be treated to plums and apples that were overtaken by the cauldron for rakija, but not by us. Descent to Njeguš, then a new ascent towards Cetinje, which we bypassed on this occasion and turned left to descend via Ceklić to Čevo. The flat one, the nest of the hero, from the folk song. Passing through the rural landscapes where the early autumn had just begun to turn red with branches, we reached our final destination, which by chance was again a tavern which is the only place of organized social life in these parts. The picturesque owner Vuko hosted us as a host, with two ovals of Njegusi prosciutto and smoked cheese, and by God, there were also repeats because the road made us tired.

The magic of Ulcinj we experienced the next day. Our variant of the Orient in an old pirate town that has attracted people from various meridians for centuries due to the mild climate and beautiful sunsets that left many in this tame city on the border of two empires fleeing disaster caused by the sultan’s, caesar’s or royal outburst, far from eyes and from the heart.

After so many kilometers, sweat, effort, overcoming ascents, conquered areas, what fell the hardest was farewell with a great team that cycled together in this adventure. The diverse line-up, hardened veterans, one young man and one recreational player, all equally in love with the wheels that turn on the principle of pedals, grew into one real band of bandits, so the atmosphere was great at all times. A lot of new and old could be heard and learned, and in a positive atmosphere there was a good mood, because, perhaps by chance, our feelings for humor were synchronized and our understanding and respect for diversity were completely common. For me this was an invaluable experience that brought great people into my life and paved the way for some new friendships.

–

Poziv na pedalanje kroz bajkovite pejzaže, preko gora do mora i nazad, sve na dva točka, mirisao je već na startu na pravu avanturu koju ni jedan iole pristojan biciklista ne bi smio propuštiti. Kad se na sve to doda raznolika ekipa, bogata duhom i prirodnim osjećajem za humor i dobar štimung, onda je suvišno govoriti da loše vrijeme u najavi nije moglo ugroziti euforiju ovog putešestvija.

Krenuli smo iz Virpazara, starim kolskim putem prema Baru i Ulcinju. Živopisan pejzaž i autentična seoska arhitektura promicali su pred nama pa su uspone na ovom dijelu puta ka Ostrosu, naše noge lakše podnosile iako smo premostili visinsku razliku od nekih 480 metara do prevoja Stegvaš na granici sa Albanijom. Vozeći obroncima koji se pružaju duž 52 obale Skadarskog jezera, najveće kriptodepresije na Balkanu, pred nama su se smjenjivali atraktivni prizori arhipelaga sićušnih jezerskih ostrva, takozvanih gorica. Rasuta poput klikera dužinom obale, svako sa ostacima drevnih zidina i manastira, tvore bajkovit prizor koji odiše duhom nekih minulih vremena, kulture i istorije ovog podneblja. Predah od pedalanja, da se prikupi snaga, razmijene utisci i okrijepi za dalji nastavak putovanja neminovno podrazumijeva svraćanje na domaće specijalitete u Seocima. Gostoprimstvo mještana, domaćinski duh i spremnost da se podijeli po koja lokalna legenda ili anegdota, napuni baterije za dalji nastavak puta. Ne obazirući se na kišu koja nas je u jednom dijelu puta ispratila kroz šumu kestenja prema Ostrosu, prvom većem albanskom selu u Krajini, tek da se glasne. Sa lokalcima podijelismo informacije o putu i sjećanja na prolaske ovuda nekih od nas uz najbolji espresso u ovom dijelu svijeta. Iako je kiša prijetila, uspješno se popesmo do Stegvaša i nizbrdo otkotrljasmo do Vladimira. Ostavivši za sobom jezero i planine, stigosmo do jadranske obale.

Drugi dan je bio rezervisan za opuštajuće pedalanje Bokokotorskim zalivom. Iz Tivta, preko Lepetana, nizala su se primosrka mjesta, Risan, Perast, Kotor, Stoliv, Prčanj pa opet Tivat, zatvarajući krug oko “naše mile Boke nevjeste Jadrana”. “More od olova i nebo od borova” ukroćeno planinskim masivima Lovćena i Orijena, plijeni ljepotom i lako prirasta srcu a da to i ne osjetite u prvi mah. Gotovo svaka građevina duž donjeg puta koji prati liniju obale spomen je bogatog kulturno-istorijskog nasleđa Boke, stvaranog vjekovima pod različitim uticajima što Mletaka, što Austrougara. Što istoka, što zapada. Što blizine, što daljine. Posjeta pomorskom muzeju u Perastu, odškrinula nam je vrata tih minulih vremena da smo uz vrlo malo napora mogli zamisliti sebe kako se sa sve biciklima ukrcavamo na jedrenjak kapetana Zmajevića i otiskujemo na debelo more. Drevni grad Kotor, sa svojim impozant- nim zidinama, zaštićen od strane UNESCO-a kao svjetska kulturna baština, zahtijevao je predah za najbolji sladoled od kokosa na jednom od brojnih gradskih trgova, ušuškanih ispod zidina Sen Đovanija. Sa druge strane zaliva dočekala nas je palata Tre Sorele iz XV. stoljeća sa jednom u nizu mnogobrojnih legendi ovog kraja, o nesrećnoj ljubavi tri sestre od kojih je svaka bila zaljubljena u istog čovjeka, pomorca koji se nikad nije vratio s daleke pučine. Vožnja kroz zaliv ostavila je utisak da nijesmo samo pedalali kroz predjele koji su se smjenjivali kao na traci i plijenili naše oči već ujedno i kroz vrijeme satkano i ispreple- tano različitim ljudskim sudbinama kao i uticajima malih i velikih sila. Naroda i religija.

Trećeg dana našeg biciklističkog pohoda, obrnuli smo na drugu stranu zaliva i ustremili se na poluostrvo Lušticu. Drum je bio talasast, ali nas je zahtjevan uspon od Krašića kasnije nagradio dobrim spustom ka drugoj strani poluostrva sa divnim pogledom na zelena brda obrasla šumarcima nara i stoljetnih maslina, izvan kojih se otvara nepregledno azurno prostranstvo mora. Zastajali smo usput da isprobamo i po koji dar prirode koja nam se nudila s obje strane druma, pa smo neki, pri čemu mislim na sebe, po prvi put probali makinje – divlje voće Mediterana. U završnici kružne ture oko poluostrva, u sami smiraj dana, prošli smo kroz Rezervat prirode Solila, pa smo malo oprobali i dio makadamskog puta do plaže Kalardovo gdje smo ispratili zalazak sunca u nestvarnim bojama.

Poslednjeg dana našeg druženja, trebalo je ponovo krenuti u pohod na brda ka Ulcinju što stražare nad zalivom i savladati 25 serpentina od Trojice do Njeguša, za početak. Nije nam teško pao taj poduhvat koliko se očekivalo, obzirom na nestvarno lijep pogled na zaliv iz različitith uglova, kako smo zamicali za koju krivinu. Na Njegušima predah u prvoj kafani, đe se pored rakije počastimo i šljivama i jabukama koje bijahu pretekle od kazana, ali ne i od nas. Spust do Njeguša, pa novi uspon prema Cetinju, koje ove prilike zaobiđosmo i okrenusmo lijevo kako bi se spustili preko Ceklića do Čeva. Onog ravnog, gnijezda junačk- og, iz narodne pjesme. Promičući niz seoske pejzaže na kojima je rana jesen tek počela

53 da rumeni granama stigosmo i do krajnjeg odredišta, što je igrom slučaja opet bila kafana koja je u ovim krajevima jedino mjesto organizovanog društvenog života. Živopisni vlasnik Vuko ugostio nas je domaćinski, sa dva ovala njeguške pršute i dimljenim sirom, a bogomi je bilo i repete jer nas je put dobro izmorio.

A magiju Ulcinja smo doživjeli narednog dana. Naša varijanta Orjenta u starom gusarskom gradu koji je vijekovima privlačio ljude sa raznih meridijana zbog blage klime i divnih zalazaka sunca koji su mnoge i ostavili da u ovom pitomom gradu na granici dvije carevine bježe od nepogode prouzrokovane sultanovim, ćesarevim ili kraljevskim izlivom bijesa, daleko od očiju i od srca.

Poslije toliko pređenih kilometara, znoja, napora, savladnih uspona, osvojenih predjela, ono što je ipak palo najteže bio je rastanak sa sjajnom ekipom koja je zajedničkim snagama pedalala u ovoj avanturi. Raznolik sastav, prekaljenih veterana, jedan omladinac i jedna rekreativka, svi podjednako zaljubljeni u točkove koji se okreću na principu pedala, srasli su u jednu pravu hajdučku družinu, pa je atmosfera bila sjajna u svakom trenutku. Dosta novoga i staroga se moglo čuti i naučiti, a u pozitivnoj atmosferi vrcao je dobar štimung, jer su nam, možda pukom igrom slučaja, osjećaji za humor bili sinhronizovani a shvatanje i poštovanje različitosti potpuno zajedničko. Ako se navedeno ima na umu, onda je suvišno reći da je za mene lično, ovo bilo neprocjenjivo iskustvo koje je u moj život dovelo sjajne ljude i utabalo put nekim novim prijateljstvima.

54 ESSAYS / SERBIA / SRBIJA

55 Bogdan Spasojević –

“What I love about photography is that it captures a moment that has passed forever, and it is impossible to repeat it”

Karl Lagerfeld

Being a photographer on a journey like this is a challenge and a pleasure. There was more than 500km of road waiting for me with a great group of people, of different characters and yet connected by a love of bicycles. I was expected to capture every moment worthy of attention, all while the group was descending at quick speeds through the fantastic landscapes of the whole of Serbia. Armed with all possible photo and video equipment, I set off.

The first day started with a drive from Belgrade to Valjevo, some 90 kilometers. Then I realized that I would have to improvise a lot because the group was diverse, not everyone was moving at the same speed, because cyclists are still individuals who want freedom. The beautiful landscape from Ub to Valjevo that we drove at sunset was the ideal scenery to make a couple of great shots. Acrobatic sitting at the car window to catch a group on the move, as well as swallowing dust along the way is an integral part of this job. Valjevski Tešnjar is like a time capsule that exudes bygone times. It was already clear that evening that this would be a wonderful trip because, although scattered along the way, everyone was constantly together all evening.

The next day, the weather slightly ruined our plans, the clouds were accumulating and the rain stopped driving at the end of the gorge of the river Gradac. Despite that, beautiful landscapes lined up all the way to Kusic, where we spent the night. In the story with the locals, we learned that this season, thanks to the corona virus, was one of the best because people mostly stayed in Serbia and visited places they had never been before. What I was waiting for was actually the sunrise because the view of the Javor mountain and the surrounding hills is absolutely impressive. The walk through the wavy landscapes of Javorova Ravna gora was unforgettable. Unfortunately, or fortunately, everything is full of forests as the meadows are overgrown as the population in the area decreases. We learned that from the locals who kept inviting us for coffee, the already well-known hospitality of Western Serbia.

The descent from Kušić to Uvac is a fantasy. The group consolidated a bit, it was easier to make good shots, but I still regretted the missed opportunities that only photographers can understand. It is not worth writing about Uvac, only a photo can remind that place. Sailing on a boat through Uvac and going out to the lookout point Molitva is something that everyone should do at least once in their life. We learned from the guide that, thanks to the effort and work, the colony of griffon vultures that flew over us in flocks was completely renewed. The evening found us in Sjenica, where of course we rushed to the sudzuk as if we had never seen it, but after the ride we eat well.

The next day we had a movie ride across the Cave. Abandoned roads, small villages, endless pastures, ideal for photography. I think I also made one of the best shots along the way. An opportunity presented itself, I managed to gather a group for the recording and voila! You’ll see in the movie.

56 We continued to Novi Pazar, where we were received by a friend of one of us and he showed us that city that stood out from other cities because it felt like the city was alive. By the way, Novi Pazar is the youngest city in Europe in terms of the average age of the inhabitants, and you can see that, the people were everywhere on the streets. In a conver- sation with the former member of the Serbian national cycling team Esko and the director of the sports center, we got acquainted with the challenges of introducing cycling and even pedestrian infrastructure in that city which is, frankly, overcrowded with cars but it has perfect conditions to be a city for pedestrians and cyclists.

From Novi Pazar we drove to the foot of Kopaonik where it was already getting dark, so we drove the rest of the way to Vranje. We were stopped by a police patrol in Blace because they were amazed where so many cyclists came from. As they said, “A cyclist is a rare animal here. It’s like seeing a lion in Blace. ”Of course, we continued with laughter. There is still a lot of work to be done to promote sustainable mobility throughout Serbia, so that we are no longer like lions in Blace.

The next day was our last day, we went to Bujanovac. The group condensed and as compet- itors they drove one after the other, to my great delight. Bujanovac is a city with a mixed population, and when we arrived, we attracted the attention of locals who treated us to coffee and immediately called their friend who is a passionate cyclist to tell us how things are with cycling with them. As always, when the same love for something is shared, there are no differences in language, religion or nationality.

–

“Ono što volim kod fotografije je što ona zabeleži momenat koji je zauvek prošao, i nemoguće ga je ponoviti”

Karl Lagerfeld

Biti fotograf na ovakvom putovanju je izazov i uživanje. Čekalo me je više od 500km puta sa sjajnom grupom ljudi, različitih karaktera a opet povezanih ljubavlju ka biciklu. Od mene se očekivalo da uhvatim svaki momenat vredan pažnje, a sve to dok se grupa spušta vratolomnim brzinama niz fantastične predele cele Srbije. Naoružan svom mogućom foto i video opremom krenuh na put.

Prvi dan je počeo vožnjom od Beograda do Valjeva, nekih 90ak kilometara. Tada sam shvatio da ću morati da dosta improvizujem jer je grupa bila raznolika, nisu se svi kreta- li istim brzinama, jer su biciklisti ipak individualci koji žele slobodu. Prelep predeo od Uba do Valjeva koji smo vozili u zalazak sunca je bio idealna scenografija da napravim par sjajnih snimaka. Akrobatsko sedenje na prozoru automobila da bi se uhvatila grupa u pokretu, kao i gutanje prašine usput je sastavni deo ovog posla. Valjevski Tešnjar je kao vremenska kapsula koja odiše prohujalim vremenima. Već to veče je bilo jasno da će ovo biti divno putovanje jer su, iako raštrkani po putu, svi stalno bili zajedno celo veče.

Sledeći dan je vreme malo kvarilo naše planove, oblaci su se nagomilavali i kiša je zaustavi- la vožnju na kraju klisure reke Gradac. Uprkos tome, divni predeli su se ređali sve do Kušića gde smo noćili. U priči sa meštanima smo saznali da je ova sezona zahvaljujući korona virusu bila jedna od najboljih jer su ljudi mahom ostali u Srbiji i posetili mesta gde nikad ranije nisu bili. Ono što sam čekao u stvari je bio izlazak sunca jer je pogled na masiv Javora i okolnih brda apsolutno impresivan. Šetnja kroz valovite predele Javorove Ravne gore je bila nezaboravna. Nažalost ili na sreću, sve je prepuno šume pošto su pašnjaci 57 zarasli jer se smanjuje broj stanovnika u tom kraju. To smo saznali od meštana koji su nas stalno zvali na kafu, već naširoko poznato gostoprimstvo Zapadne Srbije.

Spust od Kušića do Uvca je fantazija. Grupa se malo konsolidovala, bilo je lakše praviti dobre snimke, ali sam i dalje žalio za propuštenim prilikama koje samo fotografi mogu razumeti. O Uvcu ne vredi pisati, samo fotografija može dočarati to mesto. Vožnja brodom kroz Uvac i izlazak na vidikovac Molitva je nešto što svako treba da uradi barem jednom u životu. Od vodiča smo saznali da je zahvaljujući trudu i radu potpuno obnovljena kolonija beloglavih supova koji su nas nadletali u jatima. Veče nas je zateklo u Sjenici, gde smo naravno navalili na sudžuk kao da ga nikad videli nismo, ipak se posle vožnje dobro jede.

Sledeći dan nas je čekala filmska vožnja preko Peštera. Zabačeni putevi, mala sela, beskrajni pašnjaci, idealno za fotografiju. Mislim da sam tu napravio i jedan od najboljih snimaka na putu. Ukazala se prilika, uspeo sam da sakupim grupu za snimak i voila! Videćete u filmu.

Nastavili smo do Novog Pazara gde nas je primio prijatelj jednog od nas i pokazao nam taj grad koji se izdvajao od drugih gradova po tome što se osećalo da grad živi. Novi Pazar je inače najmlađi grad Evrope po prosečnom uzrastu stanovnika, i to se videlo, narod je bio svuda po ulicama. U razgovoru sa nekadašnjim reprezentativcem Srbije u biciklizmu Eskom i direktorom sportskog centra smo se upoznali sa izazovima uvođenja biciklističke, pa čak i pešačke infrastrukture u tom gradu koji je, iskreno rečeno, prenatrpan automobilima, a ima savršene uslove da bude grad za pešake i bicikliste.

Od Novog Pazara smo vozili do podnožja Kopaonika gde nas je već hvatao mrak pa smo kolima prešli ostatak puta do Vranja. U Blacu nas je zaustavila policijska patrola jer su bili začuđeni odakle toliki biciklisti. Kako oni rekoše “Ovde je biciklista retka životinja. Kao da ste videli lava u Blace” Naravno, uz smeh nastavismo dalje. I dalje ima mnogo da se radi na promociji održive mobilnosti u celoj Srbiji, da više ne budemo kao lavovi u Blace.

Sledeći dan je bio i naš poslednji dan, išli smo do Bujanovca. Grupa se zgusnula i kao takmičari su vozili jedan iza drugog, na moje veliko oduševljenje. Bujanovac je grad sa mešovitim stanovništvom, i kad smo stigli, privukli smo pažnju lokalaca koji su nas počastili kafom i zvali odmah njihovog prijatelja koji je pasionirani biciklista da nam ispriča kako stoje stvari sa biciklizmom kod njih. Kao i uvek, kad se deli ista ljubav ka nečemu, ne osećaju se razlike ni u jeziku ni veri ni nacionalnosti.

58 Jasna Cizler –

“A man on foot, on horseback or on a bicycle will see more, feel more, enjoy more in one mile than the motorized tourists can in a hundred miles.”

Edward Abbey - Desert Solitaire

Day 1 Our team starts the trip with the 88km bike ride from Belgrade to Valjevo. We cycle through mountain villages watching the nature and sheep along the road. Only 50km away from the capital, it feels like being in a different world. We spend the evening in Tešnjar, on the Kolubara riverfront, eating delicious hot peppers with garlic.

Day 2 starts in the same part of Valjevo. It is the former trade and craft district, which today represents the cultural heritage of great importance. Buildings were constructed in the 19th century and once housed shops, workshops and warehouses. We cycle uphill to the Vidrak, to visit the monument dedicated to the national hero Stevan Filipović and partisans. This 16m high giant is a cultural monument as well. It rains and we continue the ride in raincoats to the south, through the gorge of the river Gradac.

We meet the local group of activists in Kosjerić and listen about their experiences in renovating the unused building. I use the opportunity to take a look of the river Skrapež and the old mill on it.

In Požega, we pay a visit to the mural of the artist Jelena Jaćimović. She draws attention to the ecological issues and the protection of rivers. We eat žito sa šlagom, a desert made of wheat and cream.

Day 3 We are in the village Kušići, 1000m above the sea level. The climate is colder, mountainous. I take a short walk before breakfast, enjoying the view of the mountains, the old house and the sound of sheep. I eat kačamak (polenta) with milk for breakfast and we start the hike to the village Javorska Ravna Gora. We pick wild blackberries along the way. The village has less than 100 inhabitants and the number is declining. On the way back we meet local children who cross this 15km road every day to go to the school. They are neither bored nor tired, in fact they seem very cheerful while talking to us and photographing nature with their phones. We talk to a resident of a small village surrounded by beautiful landscapes. He is slow and calm, curious about what we like so much here, because he is used to it all. He tells us the story about the agricultural fields that were once scattered on the surrounding hills. But, there are no people who would work on them today. Only few families with young children have stayed in the area. It is hard to find workers who would pick the raspberries during the harvesting season. We enjoy sudzuk sausage and slatko od kupina - sweet desert made of blackberries. I drink tea made of the local plant named Vranilova trava, also known as the Wild Oregano.

In the evening, just before the sunset, we cycle to Ivanjica, located 1000m lower. This 24km descent lasts a whole hour, along the curves surrounded by forests. Having different rhythms, the team members got scattered quickly, so I cycle alone most of the time. It is scary at times, because it is getting dark. I occasionally run into a barking dog and there are no other people around. But it is also very exciting and liberating. I feel strong as I go down the mountain. These are the moments when I remember why, and how much, I like to ride a bike. 59 In Ivanjica, we pay a visit to the old bridge, the waterfall on the river Moravica and the Memorial Mosaic of the Revolution. The mosaic is the work of painter and graphic artist Đorđe Andrejević Kun, who made the coat of arms of Belgrade in 1931 - the one which is still in use today. We eat delicious cakes. People are getting calmer, warmer and kinder as we head south. Food is getting better and cheaper.

Day 4 We climb to Vasilijin Vrh, the highest peak of the mountain Javor (1519m) and after that cycle to Sjenica (Uvac) lake. We sail through meanders, between limestone rocks and caves, while griffon vultures fly above us. This is a protected natural area of great importance. We hike to the viewpoint Molitva (Prayer) and snack rosehips along the way.

Day 5 We are in Sjenica, the city with the lowest temperatures in Serbia, eating bakla- va and mantije. We visit the Sultan Valide Mosque built in 19th century, a cultural monument whose dome is 15m in diameter.

We cycle 70km through the Pešter plateau towards Novi Pazar, surrounded by vast meadows and pastures with cows and sheep, villages and mosques. Local children do not cycle because their tires are punctured. They need to go all the way to Novi Pazar for the new ones. Car drivers greet us along the way. People are curious about our trip and we feel welcome.

Shortly before arriving to Novi Pazar, we pass by the spring of the river Raška and visit Sopoćani monastery. It was built in 13th century and its name originates from the old Slavic word ‘sopot’ which means ‘spring’. We eat trout on the Raška riverfront, just under the hill where fortress of Stari Ras is located. These are some of the most important cultural monuments in Serbia and they are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Day 6 I am awakened by the sounds of mosques in Novi Pazar just before dawn. We drink tea and talk with local cyclists, and then visit the hammam and the Altun-alem mosque.

On the way to town Raška, we visit the oldest church in Serbia - The Church of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul. Together with Sopoćani and Stari Ras, this church is part of the protected historical core of the Serbian medieval state Raška.

Later that day, we take a break in Blace, the town of plums. The town has its own Plum Festival and the monument dedicated to the plum in the park.

Day 7 In Vranje, I pay a visit to the 19th century house where the writer Bora Stanković was born and where he lived with his grandmother. The local high school, library, theater and one street bear his name today, while the birth house-museum is located in street named after his grandma - Baba Zlatina ulica. Former shoe factory and a pastry shop in Vranje are named ‘Koštana’, after Bora Stanković’s famous play.

After Vranje, we cycle to Bujanovac. Regardless of the language barriers, we are welcomed by the locals and children in particular, while we create the temporary bicycle path in front of the city hall.

“It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate 60 remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.”

Ernest Hemingway – By-Line: Selected Articles and Dispatches of Four Decades.

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“Čovek koji hoda, jaše konja ili vozi bicikl će videti, osetiti i uživati više nakon jedne milje nego što motorizovani turista može nakon sto milja”

Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire.

Prvog dana putovanja vozimo od Beograda ka Valjevu, 88km. Prolazim po prvi put kroz Obrenovac, Ub i brdska sela sa stadima ovaca uz put. Na par desetina kilometara od prestonice je već drugi svet. Dan završavamo u Tešnjaru, na obali Kolubare, uz ljute paprike sa lukom.

Sledećeg jutra dan započinjemo u istom delu Valjeva, nekadašnjoj trgovačko-zanatskoj četvrti koja danas predstavlja kulturno dobro od izuzetnog značaja. Kuće su iz 19. veka i u njima su se nekada nalazile prodavnice, radionice, zanatske radnje i magacini. Zatim se biciklom penjemo na brdo Vidrak do Spomenika Stevanu Filipoviću, posvećenog istoi- menom narodnom heroju i partizanskim borcima. Ovaj džin visine 16m danas predstavlja Spomenik kulture. Pada kiša i vozimo u kabanicama dalje ka jugu kroz klisuru reke Gradac.

U Kosjeriću se sastajemo sa lokalnom grupom aktivista, slušamo o njihovim iskustvima i obilazimo objekat koji sređuju, reku Skrapež i staru vodenicu na njoj.

U Požegi obilazimo mural umetnice Jelene Jaćimović koji skreće pažnju na uništavanje i zaštitu reka. Jedemo žito sa šlagom.

Trećeg dana se budimo na visini od skoro 1000m, u selu Kušići. Klima je hladnija, planins- ka. Pre doručka šetam placem, uživam u pogledu na planine, staru kuću i u zvuku ovaca. Kačamak sa mlekom za doručak. Šetamo do sela Javorska Ravna Gora. Selo ima manje od 100 stanovnika i taj broj je u padu. Prate nas psi, a usput srećemo i decu koja svakodnevno sama prelaze ovaj put od 15-ak kilometara do škole. Kažu da im nije ni dosadno ni naporno, zapravo deluju vrlo živahno i zdravo dok pričaju sa nama i fotografišu prirodu mobilnim telefonima. Pričamo i sa žiteljom jednog malog sela okruženog divnim pejzažima. Spor je i miran. Radoznao povodom toga šta se nama toliko sviđa tu na planini. On je navikao na to. Kaže, ranije su tu bile njive svuda po brdima okolo, ali sad više nema ko da radi. Nabraja svega nekoliko porodica koje imaju decu u kraju.. Ni maline nema ko da bere. Jedemo sudžuk, slatko od kupina, tek ubrane jabuke i divlje kupine. Pijem čaj od Vranilove trave.

Uveče se spuštamo biciklom do Ivanjice 24km i 1km visinske razlike. Taj spust traje čitav jedan sat, po krivinama i šumama uz zalazak sunca. Vozim sama uglavnom jer smo se opet raštrkali. Na momente je strašno jer pada mrak, naletim na po kojeg psa i nema nigde nikoga. Ali je i vrlo oslobađajuće i osećam se snažno dok jurim niz planinu. To su momenti kad se prisetim zašto i koliko volim da vozim bicikl.

U Ivanjici obilazimo Gradski park, stari most i vodopad na reci Moravici, Spomen-mozaik Revoluciji (delo slikara i grafičara Đorđa Andrejevića Kuna, koji je 1931. uradio grb Beograda koji se i dalje koristi) i jedemo odlične kolače. Ljudi su sve smireniji, topliji i ljubazniji kako idemo ka jugu. Hrana sve bolja i jeftinija.

61 Četvrtog dana se penjemo na Vasilijin Vrh, najvišu tačku planine Javor (1519m), a zatim vozimo bicikl do Sjeničkog (Uvačkog) jezera. Brodom plovimo meandrima, kroz krečnjačke stene i uz pećine. Gledamo beloglave supove i slušamo priču o njihovoj zaštiti. Specijalni rezervat prirode Uvac je prirodno dobro od izuzetnog značaja. Penjemo se do vidikovca Molitva i grickamo šipak usput.

Petog dana se budimo u Sjenici. Baklave i mantije. Grad sa najnižim temperaturama u zemlji. Obilazimo Džamiju Valide Sultan iz 19. veka, spomenik kulture, sa kupolom prečni- ka 15m.

Vozimo kroz Peštersku visoravan ka Novom Pazaru 70km. Oko nas su prostrane livade i pašnjaci, na njima krave i ovce, i poneko selo sa džamijom. Vozači automobila koji nam idu u susret nas svaki put pozdrave. Nailazimo na dečake sa probušenim gumama na bicik- lu. Po nove treba otići čak u Pazar. Vidi se siromaštvo i dobrota, jednostavnost. Budimo radoznalost i dobrodošlicu.

Nešto pre dolaska u Novi Pazar prolazimo pored izvora reke Raške i obilazimo Sopoćane (13. vek, naziv vodi poreklo od stare slovenske reči ‘sopot’ što znači ‘izvor’) i prolazimo pored tvrđave Stari Ras. Ovo su neki od najznačajnijih spomenika kulture u Srbiji i nalaze se na UNESKO-voj listi svetske baštine. Jedemo pastrmku uz reku Rašku.

Šestog dana me u Novom Pazaru pred svitanje bude zvuci iz džamija. Obilazimo hamam i Altun-alem džamiju iz 16. veka. Pijemo čaj i pričamo sa lokalnim biciklistima. Prija mi ljubaznost i uviđajnost meštana.

Krećemo biciklom ka Raškoj. Na izlazu iz Novog Pazara obilazimo Crkvu Svetih apostola Petra i Pavla. To je najstariji spomenik crkvene arhitekture u Srbiji, i zajedno sa Sopoćanima i Starim Rasom deo zaštićene celine istorijskog jezgra srpske srednjevekovne države Raške.

Svraćamo u Blace, grad šljivarstva, festivala Šljivijada (ili Dani šljive) i u parku u centru grada obilazimo Spomenik šljivi.

Sedmog dana smo u Vranju. Obilazim kuću podignutu sredinom XIX veka u kojoj se rodio i živeo pisac Bora Stanković sa svojom babom, Zlatom. Lokalna gimnazija, bibliote- ka, pozorište i jedna ulica, danas nose njegovo ime, a rodna kuća-muzej se nalazi u Baba Zlatinoj ulici. Nekadašnja fabrika obuće i jedna poslastičarnica u gradu, nose naziv Koštana.

Zatim vozimo bicikle do Bujanovca, gde bez obzira na jezičke barijere nailazimo na dobro- došlicu lokalaca i zainteresovanost dece, dok prostiremo privremenu biciklističku stazu u centru grada.

‘Vozeći bicikl naučite najbolje o konturama zemlje, zbog toga što morate da se oznojite vozeći uzbrdo, kao i da se spustite niz ta brda. Na taj način ih pamtite onakvima kakave zaista jesu, dok vas u automobilu impresioniraju samo visoka brda i nemate precizno sećanje na zemlju kroz koju ste vozili kao kada vozite bicikl’

Ernest Hemingway, By-Line: Selected Articles and Dispatches of Four Decades.

62 Maja Mladenović –

“How long is the longest you’ve ever ridden?”, Jasna asked me that morning a few minutes before we started our seven-day bike tour around Serbia.

“Forty kilometers,” I replied, thinking slightly frightened of the 90 kilometers that await- ed me that day. I was worried: am I crazy? Everyone here seems far more prepared, rides lighter bikes and is better equipped than me.

Already on the first break in Ub after the sixtieth kilometer of driving, it was clear to me that I had made a phenomenal decision by going to the Balkaravana 2020.

The section from Ub to Valjevo, where the first night on the tour took place, seems to have been created for enjoying cycling. We were walking on a side road that only a few vehicles passed, so we absorbed the silence, nature and the late September sun with full lungs and smiles on our faces.

The next morning, the weather did not help us, but we nevertheless managed to make the most of the day, aided by motorized vehicles at times when the rain did not allow us to cycle. For a fan of fast and exciting driving like me, the highlight of the day was the descent from Divčibare to Kosjerić, some 15 kilometers downhill.

Late in the evening we arrived at the accommodation in Kušići, where it was planned to spend two nights, in order to have a well-deserved rest. From there, the next day we went hiking on the beautiful mountain Javor, where we met the locals who welcomed us with open arms, fortifying us with homemade coffee and unsprayed fruit.

The landscapes we passed through really became more beautiful with each kilometer traveled during the entire tour. The next day we were thrilled by the boat ride and the climb to the Molitva lookout in the Uvac nature reserve, where flocks of griffon vultures flew over us several times.

It is difficult to single out what was the best part during the week, but the ride across the Pešterska plateau from Sjenica to Novi Pazar completely knocked me off my feet. Landscapes like from the most beautiful postcards; the charm of a rural heaven and an exciting off-road ride have forever engraved themselves in my memory. On the same day, we met the locals from Novi Pazar who passionately hosted us and shared with us stories about life in that area. The next morning, Novi Pazar got the first (canvas) bike path in the city, which we developed to indicate the need for space for bicycles.

We reached Vranje, our last stop during the tour, by car, and from there in the morning we went by bike to Bujanovac. Once again, we were delighted by the kindness and hospitality of the local population, which they provided us regardless of the occasional language barrier, because smiles and giving refreshments to tired cyclists are under- standable in every language. We retaliated by giving our new friends bags with the logo of our tour. In Bujanovac, we also developed a canvas bike path in front of the municipal building, in which we were joined by cheerful children on bicycles.

After a week and more than 500 kilometers of cycling in Serbia, I can’t help but smile when I think of my unnecessary concern before departure. During the tour, we went through 63 magical landscapes, visited numerous monuments, churches and mosques, and met many wonderful and kind people. Thus, we had the opportunity to get to know Serbia and all the natural and cultural diversity that it has to offer, and in the best and healthiest way: by bike.

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„Koliko je najduže što si ikad vozila?“, upitala me je Jasna tog jutra nekoliko minuta pre nego što smo započeli našu sedmodnevnu turu biciklima po Srbiji.

„Četrdeset kilometara“, odgovorih joj, blago uplašeno razmišljajući o tih 90 kilome- tara koji me čekaju tog dana. Brinula sam se: da li sam luda? Svi ovde deluju daleko spremnije, voze lakše bicikle i bolje su opremljeni od mene.

Već na prvoj pauzi u Ubu nakon šezdesetog kilometara vožnje bilo mi je jasno da sam napravila fenomenalnu odluku time što sam pošla na Balkaravanu 2020.

Deonica od Uba do Valjeva, gde je bilo prvo noćenje na turi, kao da je stvorena za uživanje uz vožnju bicikla. Išli smo sporednim drumom kojim je prošlo tek poneko vozilo, tako da smo punim plućima i sa osmesima na licu upijali tišinu, prirodu i kasnoseptembarsko sunce.

Sledećeg jutra nas vreme nije poslužilo, ali smo bez obzira na to uspeli da maksimal- no iskoristimo dan, potpomognuti motorizovanim vozilima u trenucima kada kiša nije dozvoljavala da bicikliramo. Za ljubitelja brze i uzbudljive vožnje poput mene vrhunac dana je bio spust od Divčibara do Kosjerića, nekih 15-ak kilometara nizbrdice.

Kasno uveče smo stigli u smeštaj u Kušićima, gde je bilo planirano da noćimo dve noći, kako bismo se zasluženo odmorili. Odatle smo narednog dana pošli na pešačenje predivnom planinom Javor, gde smo se susreli sa lokalnim stanovništvom koji su nas dočekali raširenih ruku, okrepljujući nas domaćom kafom i neprskanim voćem.

Predeli kroz koje smo prolazili su zaista svakim pređenim kilometrom tokom cele ture postajali sve lepši. Tako nas je sutradan oduševila vožnja čamcem i uspon do vidikov- ca Molitva u prirodnom rezervatu Uvac, gde su nas više puta nadletala jata beloglavih supova.

Teško je izdvojiti šta je bio najbolji deo tokom tih nedelju dana, ali mene je vožnja preko pešterske visoravni od Sjenice do Novog Pazara sasvim oborila s nogu. Pejzaži kao iz najlepših razglednica, šarm seoske idile i uzbudljiva off-road vožnja su mi se zauvek urezali u pamćenje. Istog dana smo se upoznali sa novopazarskim lokalcima koji su nas svesrdno ugostili i delili sa nama priče o životu u tom kraju. Sledećeg jutra je Novi Pazar dobio prvu (doduše platnenu) biciklističku stazu u gradu, koju smo razvili kako bismo ukazali na potrebu za prostorom za kretanje bicikala.

Do Vranja, naše poslednje stanice tokom ture, stigli smo prevozom, a odatle se ujutru uputili biciklima do Bujanovca. Opet nas je iznova oduševila ljubaznost i gostoprimstvo lokalnog stanovništa koju su nam pružali bez obzira na povremenu jezičku barijeru, jer su osmesi i davanje okrepljenja umornim biciklistima razumljivi na svakom jeziku. Uzvratili smo poklanjajući našim novim prijateljima cegere sa logoom naše ture. U Bujanovcu smo takođe razvili platnenu biciklističku stazu ispred zgrade opštine, u čemu su nam se pridružila vesela deca na biciklima.

64 Posle nedelju dana i više od 500 kilometara vožnje bicikla po Srbiji ne mogu da se ne nasmešim kad pomislim na svoju nepotrebnu zabrinutost pred polazak. Tokom ture smo prošli kroz čarobne predele, obišli mnogobrojne spomenike, crkve i džamije, i upoznali mnogo divnih i ljubaznih ljudi. Time smo imali priliku da upoznamo Srbiju i svu prirodnu i kulturnu šarolikost koja ona ima da pruži, i to na najbolji i najzdraviji način: biciklom.

65 Tihomir Dičić / Lions from Blace / Lavovi iz Blaca –

Cycling in Serbia was a lot of climbs and only climbs. From the many peaks we conquered, there was a view of the beautiful landscapes and places we visited. In short breaks we ate wild blackberries and rose hips. In the early evening we usually arrived at the hostel so we got to know the places through night and morning cycling. This was quite inspiring for me as an architect to consider the structure of the former old Balkan towns and how a bicycle as a means of transportation can change the future development of these places.

Most of these cities were created or experienced a radical reconstruction during the Turkish rule in the 15th and 16th centuries. A good part of social life took place on more or less narrow dirt or cobbled streets. The biggest radical change happened after the Second World War, under the influence of the international style in architecture, when both family life and urban structure began to change. The minarets and bell towers of churches no longer dominate the silhouette of the city, but multi-store, mostly residen- tial, buildings. But although the radical change was not comprehensive, even today the narrow streets remain unsuitable for motor traffic, but for the feet and the bicycle.

Valjevo has undergone a transformation before, but the city center itself has kept the old urban matrix, as the city is mostly flat, there are a lot of cyclists, but car traffic is overrepresented. While we were doing a bike lift at the foot of the monument to Stjepan Filipović, we considered as a motive for promoting cycling in Valjevo that he can also carry a bicycle with his heroic attitude.

Sjenica in the current edition is a typical example of oriental urbanism where the Sultan Valide mosque and the municipality are next to each other building, and nothing of the old settlement has been preserved, all the buildings are new. Apart from the imposing building of the mosque, there are no oriental houses with shingled roofs covered with shingles. The city is expanding around the main religious building and the city adminis- tration, everything else is changeable, the way of thinking may be a suitable ground for a radically different mobility in the place itself. We were not the only ones who came to the mosque by bicycle, another bicycle was leaning against the wall.

We drove through the Cave on the stone roads, while the children, who could barely reach the gas with their fingertips, rushed past us in a Mercedes, raising a cloud of dust behind them. Pešter is densely populated, the locals are smiling and wish a good day in passing.

Novi Pazar is the successor of Staro Trgovište, whose remains are located at the foot of the Ras fortress. The older settlement was the center of the Serbian medieval state during the time of Stefan Nemanja, from the fortress itself, built on a wavy peak, there is a view of Novi Pazar, Đurđeva Stupova and Peter’s Church. The new settlement was built by Isa Beg as a stronghold for his campaigns towards Bosnia. For two centuries, these nearby settlements lived side by side, the Staro Trgovište was extinguished, while the new city sprang up on a more suitable terrain for expansion and trade caravans grew. The influence of international style can be seen in the very center of the city, as if it landed and remained trapped in the surrounding neighborhoods where the charm of the old town took place, with the main pedestrian street as a bazaar where a huge

66 amount of people crowded and gave the impression of crowds and oriental bazaars. Expensive big cars race through too narrow dark alleys and noise disturb the silence of the town, the creaking of an old bicycle would suit them better.

A policeman at the entrance to Blace stopped us when he saw bicycles: “Cyclists in Blace, that species is extinct, like a lion you have seen.”

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Pedalanje po Srbiji bilo je puno uspona i samo uspona. Sa mnogih vrhova koje smo osvojili pucao je pogled na prelepe krajolike i mesta koja smo pohodili. U kratkim predasima smo jeli divlje kupine i šipurak. Predveče smo obično stizali do konačiš- ta tako da smo upoznavali mesta kroz noćnu i jutarnju vožnju biciklom. Ovo mi je bilo poprilično inspiratino kao arhitekti da razmatram strukturu nekadašnjih starih balkanskih varoši i kako bicikl kao prevozno sredstvo može da promeni budući razvoj ovih mesta.

Većina ovih gradova je nastala ili je doživela korenitu obnovu za vreme turske vlasti u XV i XVI veku. Dobar deo društvenog života odvijao se na više ili manje uskim zemljanim ili kaldrmisanom ulicama. Najveća korenita promena desila se nakon drugog svetskog rata, pod uticajem internacionalnog stila u arhitekturi kada počinje da se menja kako porodični život tako i urbanistička struktura. Minareti i zvonici crkava više ne dominiraju siluetom grada već višespratni, najčešće stambeni, objek- ti. Ali iako radikalna promena, nije bila sveobuhvatna, tako i dan danas ostaju uske ulice neprimerene za motorni saobraćaj već za tabane ali i bicikl.

Valjevo je ranije doživelo transformaciju, ali sam centar grada uz zadržao je staru urbanu matricu, kako je grad mahom ravan ima dosta biciklista, ali je automobil- ski saobraćaj prezastupljen. Dok smo podno spomenika Stjepanu Filipoviću radili bajklift razmatrali smo kao motiv za popularisanje biciklizma u Valjevu da i on svom junačkom stavu može da ponese jedan bicikl.

Sjenica u sadašnjem izdanju predstavlja tipičan primer orijentalnog urbanizma gde su Sultan Valide džamija i opština jedna uz drugu zgradu, a nije sačuvano ništa od starog naselja, svi objekti su novi. Osim impozantne građevine džamije, nema orijentalnih kuća sa srtmim krovovima prekrivenim šindrom. Grad se širi oko glavnog verskog objekta i uprave grada, sve ostalo je zamenljivo, način razmišljanja je možda pogodno tle za radikalno drugačiju mobilnost u samom mestu. Nismo bili jedini koji su došli biciklom do džamije, uza zid bio je naslonjen još jedan bicikl.

Vozili smo Pešterom po kamenim putevima dok su deca koja su vrhovima prstiju jedva mogla da dohvate gas projurila su pored nas u Mercedesu dižući iza sebe oblak prašine. Pešter je gusto naseljen, meštani su nasmejani i požele dobar dan u prolazu.

Novi Pazar je naslednik Starog Trgovišta čiji ostaci se nalaze podno tvrđave Ras. Starije naselje je bilo centar srpske srednjovekovne države za vreme Stefana Nemanje, sa same tvrđave, izgrađene na zatalasanom vrhu, puca pogled na Novi Pazar, Đurđeve Stupove i Petrovu crkvu. Novo naselje je izgradio Isa beg kao uporište za svoje pohode ka Bosni. Dva veka su ova bliska naselja živela uporedo, staro Trgovište se gasi, dok novi grad niče na pogodnijem terenu za širenje i trgov- ačke karavane raste. Uticaj internacionalnog stila vidi se u samom centru grada, kao 67 da je sleteo i ostao zarobljen u okolnim mahalama gde se održao šarm stare varoši, sa glavnom pešačkom ulicom kao čaršijom gde se tiska ogromna količina ljudi i odaje utisak gužve i vreve sa orijentalnih bazara. Skupa velika kola jure preuskim mračnim sokacima i bukom remete tišinu mahala, više bi im pristajalo škripanje starog bicikla.

Policajac na ulazu u Blace nas je zaustavio kad je video bicikle: “Biciklisti u Blacu, to ti je izumrla vrsta, ko lava da si video.”

68 Zoran Bukvić –

It is cold September morning. You can smell the rain in the air. For breakfast, traditional burek from “Red star” bakery, one of the oldest in Savamala. We start from the cultural center Magacin, ex warehouse of publishing house Nolit. It is where our office is. We collect the tools, pumps, we are packing stuff.

We are all excited, not sure which way we will go to Valjevo, and whether it is going to rain or not. First 15 km just for warming up, trough gigantic construction site of Belgrade Waterfront, new age shopping and business temples along the river Sava. We hope that after the construction are done, the river and bicycle path will still be available for common people. Further, through green the oasis of island Ada Ciganija and Makiš field, we reach Umka.

By the road, illegal construction sites and warehouses in Makiš are reported, on the area that once used to be a large green field protected as a water supply area. It still is, but looks that authorities turn the head in the opposite direction in order not to see illegal construction sites. Heavy trucks dropping down thousands of tons of earth and sands to raise surface level in the field. Soon, heavy traffic will take over on old road to Obrenovac, what today is an oasis for cyclists.

Further, we get to busier road to Obrenovac, now connected with the new highway, not a too pleasant experience, but in town we had a pit stop for drinks and snacks.

We are discussing which road to go to Ub, and choose the easiest with lowest altitude. As we are getting further from Obrenovac, there is less and less traffic. After lunch in Ub, we got recommendation from Tihomir’s relatives to go through the less busy and picturesque road through green hills. No cars on the road and sun came out through the clouds! Behind us, the greyest cloud ever, but we reach Valjevo dry and happy. After dinner in Valjevo, we lay in bed exhausted. It started to rain.

Next morning, we are planning the day. After breakfast we climb the hill Vidrak above Valjevo, where a gigantic monument of WW2 war hero waits for us. Stevan Filipović, Croat of origin, communist, died with raised hands, on the gallows. Last words shouted before he was hanged by local fascist were “Death to fascism, freedom to people”.

After taking some photos under the monument, we leave Stevan behind and after some wandering, (and what is cyclist, if he doesn’t wonder sometimes) we get to the canyon of river Gradac. The river is beautiful, but heavy rain starts to fall, and we pack our bikes, while mountain peaks disappear into the clouds. We climb through the mountains, and at the peak of Mt. Divcibare the rain stops, so we take our bikes again and take a fast downhill ride to Kosjeric. There we met the crew of local activist who are trying to open an alternative cultural center. We have a short interview with them, they are a bit confused but with a good plan what to do further. Place still looks unfinished, and needs lots of renovating, but we have trust in them. After Kosjerić, we visit Pozega and a mural of our friend, designer and street artist Jelena Jacimović, who should have been on the road with us, but couldn’t manage to come. After dark, we continue to Kušići, and get there exhausted, lay down in beds.

69 On the third day, we woke up in Kušići, a village on the mountain Javor. The view on the surrounding mountains is beautiful, with the rocky Mučanj in the middle. We decide to take a 9 km long walk to local villages, where we see that the population is decreasing and houses are abandoned.

Local school, once part of of the big project for education of the village population, among 300 other schools, is being demolished. A few local kids left in the village again have to walk to school 9 km in one direction, every day! Generations of inhab- itants of Javorska Ravna gora went to Belgrade and further, and only couple of them come back to spent their old days in the village.

Only thing which keeps people there is the red raspberry, called the red gold of that area. Plantations are all around on the steep slopes.

After coming back to Kušići, we decide to cycle downhill to Ivanjica, which takes us to a long ride through a beautiful nature and sunset.

Ivanjica is small but nice, tidy city in the valley, with the beautiful park and the river Moravica with the waterfall.

We discuss about tomorrow’s ride, and going to sleep to Kušići, a long day is waiting for us.

On the third day, we started in the early morning, with a “blessing” from our host. After Kušići, light rain is following us, but we continue forward. We are climbing uphill, breathing fast, puffing and pushing, but the nature is beautiful, and the air clearest ever with a beautiful scent! After 13 km, we reach the peak of Javor mountain, Vasilijin vrh. We have to leave our bikes and climb for 700 meters, but it was worth it, the view was like from the top of the world, and we were exhausted but happy! After hiking, we decide to take a dirt road by bikes, and adrenaline starts to pump when we started to roll down the rocky road. Hands are squeezing the breaks and we don’t feel comfortable as on asphalt, watching for the rocks and bumps and navigating through. After the steep hill, finally we reach asphalt and continue to cycle trough more and more beautiful landscape trough canyon of the dried river. At the end, we reach Sjeničko lake, and take a short break in restaurant Elko to drink local coffee from „fildžan“.

Soon, we reach the boat of local rangers, and we start a boat tour, to the land of the eagles. Griffon vultures are an endangered species, and they are protected in this area. Rangers are protecting them and feeding them with animal carcasses, which resulted that from the original colony of 7 vultures today we have almost 500 of them!

You can see them all around Uvac lake, with its beautiful meanders, cliffs and rocks, where the vultures nest. They are circling in the big groups and posing to the visitors of the national park. After the boat ride and lecture from the ranger, we climbed to the viewpoint Molitva, and then took a 7 km long walk along the breathtaking meanders of lake Uvac. Once it was the river, and now it is accumulation of hydropower plant. At the end, in the sunset, lady from the camp tells us a story how Kim Kardashian visited them as a part of municipality strategy to attract the tourists, like that beautiful nature needs Kardashian to promote itself. We are hungry and exhausted, and we hurry to get to hotel in Sjenica.

70 On the fourth day, we woke up in hotel Borići in Sjenica, a beautiful place surround- ed by pine forest, so we didn’t mind troubles with rooms that had a scent of the last century and where cables hung from the ceiling. After breakfast, we rushed to see local mosque, famous for the biggest dome in the area, built to support itself without any pillars. It dates back to 19th century, and it was built as a tribute to the sultan’s mother so it is called Valide mosque, and was built by Sultan Abdulaziz as a symbol of Ottoman presence and dominance in this area. We spoke briefly with a deputy of local Imam, who told us more about the mosque and its purpose.

After Sjenica, we rush towards Pešter, highland plateau between Sjenica, Tutin and Novi Pazar, landmarks of the Sandžak, which is a Turkish word for administrative region. The landscape is breathtaking, the fields green, the day beautiful. After a couple of hours of riding, we stop by the local spring of ice-cold water, while local kids are passing by us in a car, leaving us in a cloud of dust. They are not older that twelve, maybe thirteen. We continue our ride, while dozens of helicopters passing above our heads like in an apocalypse, rushing to some military exercise. We are passing through landscapes of green and sometimes rocky hills, and the weather is perfect. From time to time the first thing one sees above the hills that we are climbing are the peaks of minarets. Mostly we use dirt roads, so it is more difficult for riding but nobody complains, we all wish this day lasts forever. We saw only a few cars passing by. At the end, the magic of Pešter plateau reaches its end as we reach Sopoćani monastery, where we drink coffee with the monk and talk about Belgrade, cycling and urbanism. Later, we had dinner in the beautiful restaurant under the Serbia’s medieval capital town Ras, protected by UNESCO. Then, crazy evening ride to Novi Pazar, a mishmash of cultures. We find our hotel easy, strolling through traffic jams at the entrance of the city.

Novi Pazar is the „capital“ of the area, and as we enter the lively city center, we see a clash of cultures and architectural styles. Big SUV-s jamming small and narrow Ottoman style streets, young people rushing to restaurants and caffes while strong bass is heard from the night clubs and BMW-s. It is Saturday evening. Above all, Mujezin calls for a prayer from the one of dozens of minarets around the city.

Tomorrow, after traditional local breakfast, we went to meet local cycling activists. On the main square, lots of people. People are rushing, lots of pedestrians and cars. Around us, new constructions sites springing up like mushrooms. Five-storied buildings take the place of old Ottoman houses, once the landmark of the city. We are hoping that at least the city center is going to be preserved from that urbanistic chaos.

Our hosts, Damir, Esko and Dušan come from different backgrounds. Damir is an activist and school professor, Esko is a professional racing cyclist who once even won against famous Sagan, and Dušan is the director of the sport center of Novi Pazar.

The hosts took us to Hamam (Turkish bath from 17th century), preserved and turned into a café. We even left the bikes in there! Boys are carrying tea and coffee on a hanging platter, like in Istanbul. Traditional Turkish coffee is made in ember and hosts claim that it gives a different, better taste. We nod our heads, but between ourselves, coffee tastes the same.

We realize that traffic problems of Novi Pazar and Belgrade are almost the same, lots of cars in the city center, narrow streets, and a strong Balkan car centric culture. Parking space is blessed.

71 They look for instant solutions, like we when we started as Ulice za bicikliste. I am trying to tell them that this is not a short race, but a marathon. Changing the priority in traffic took decades even in Western Europe. They insist of paying for the tea and coffee, and even organize professional tourist guide Samir to show us downtown, mosques and “čaršija”. We offer them to put our bicycle carpet in the front of municipality together, but they refuse, as they are not willing to go public.

After we told each other farewell, we pack our things and continue to the Church of St. Peter on the exit of the city, and cycle further to the city of Raška. Along Ibarska motorway, cycling becomes unpleasant, lots of heavy trucks so we pack our bikes on cars and continue to Vranje.

After breakfast, we take a fast bicycle ride to nearby Bujanovac, 20 kilometers from Vranje.

As we enter in this small town where Albanians and Serbs live together, after we got confused about where to go after the roundabout, we hear locals tell us “that direction is Kosovo*, this is Serbia “.

We realize that people are still divided nationally, but everything seems all right, as we enter pedestrian zone. After not being able to find a cafe where we can pay by credit card, local Albanians invite us to their cafe.

They insist on paying the bill, so we drink coffee and tea and chat with them about cycling and our project. From time to time, they don’t understand our fast Serbian, so we have to speak slowly. We seem interesting to them, with our Balkaravana t-shirts and bicycles, funny beards and hats, making a video.

Soon, our host calls their friend who is a passionate cyclist, but he comes on a Harley Davidson. We laugh a bit together, and they speak about their joined rides with cyclists from Kosovo*.

After greeting them, we are departing, but first we place our red bicycle carpet in the front of the municipality building of Bujanovac. Security comes out, but as we ask them kindly, they allow us to put the carpet and take photos. When you come on bicycle, everybody understands that you have good intentions!

Soon, we take a fast ride back to Vranje, and end our adventure with lunch in restaurant Mrkela. The best barbecue ever, we now understand why southern Serbia is so famous for this kind of cuisine! A bit exhausted, but full of impressions, we pack our things and hit the road to Belgrade.

–

Septembar je, hladnije jutro za to doba godine. Može se osetiti miris kiše u vazduhu. Za doručak naručujemo tradicionalni burek iz pekare „Crvena zvezda“, jedne od najstarijih u Savamali. Krećemo na put iz kulturnog centra Magacin, bivšeg skladišta izdavačke kuće Nolit. Tu je inače kancelarija Ulica za bicikliste I radionica Bici ćoše(nešto kao Bike kitchen). Sakupljamo I pakujemo alate, pumpe I naše stvari.

Svi smo uzbuđeni, nismo sigurni kojim putem ćemo ići do Valjeva i da li će padati kiša ili ne. Prvih 15 km samo za zagrevanje, kroz gigantsko gradilište Beograda na vodi. Prolazimo kroz buduće hramove kupovine i biznisa. Nadamo se da će nakon izgradnje 72 ovog kompleksa biciklistička staza i dalje biti pored reke Save, dostupna običnim ljudi- ma. Dalje, kroz zelenu oazu ostrva Ada Ciganija I Makiškog polja dolazimo do Umke.

Pored starog Obrenovačkog puta su niču nelegalna gradilišta i magacini. Duž ovog nekada velikog zelenog polja zaštićenog kao šira zona zaštite vodoizvorišta niče divlja gradnja. Profit od novihh kvadrata očigledno zatvara oči gradskim inspekcijama, dok teški kamioni nasipaju hiljade tona zemlje i peska da bi podigli nivo površine na terenu za izgradnju novih hala. Uskoro će gust saobraćaj zauzeti stari put za Obrenovac, danas oazu za bicikliste kojim prođe tek poneki automobil.

Dalje, stižemo do prometnijeg puta za Obrenovac, sada povezanog novim autoputem. Ovaj deo puta je manje prijatan za vožnju, ali na sreću uskoro stižemo u Obrenovac I pravimo pauzu za piće I grickalice.

Razgovaramo kojim putem da idemo do Uba i biramo najlakši sa najnižom nadmorskom visinom. Kako se udaljavamo od Obrenovca, sve je manje saobraćaja. Posle ručka na Ubu, dobili smo preporuku od Tihomirove rodbine da prođemo manje prometnim i živopisnim putem kroz zelene brežuljke. Nijedan automobil na putu, dok ispred nas sunce izlazi kroz oblake! Iza nas, najsivlji oblak ikad, ali do Valjeva stižemo suvi i srećni. Posle večere u Valjevu, iscrpljeni padamo u krevet. Počela je da pada kiša.

Sledećeg jutra planiramo dan. Posle doručka penjemo se na brdo Vidrak iznad Valjeva, gde nas čeka gigantski spomenik ratnog heroja iz Drugog svetskog rata. Stevan Filipović, Hrvat poreklom, komunista, umro je podignutih ruku, na vešalima. Poslednje reči koje je izvikao pre nego što su ga obesili lokalni fašisti bile su „Smrt fašizmu, narodu“.

Nakon fotografisanja ispod spomenika, ostavljamo Stevana iza sebe i nakon malo lutan- ja, (a koji biciklista ponekad ne zaluta?) dolazimo do kanjona reke Gradac. Reka je prelepa, ali jaka kiša počinje da pada sve jače i mi pakujemo bicikle, dok planinski vrhovi nestaju u oblacima. Penjemo se kroz planine, a na vrhuncu Divčibara kiša presta- je, pa ponovo sedamo na bicikle i brzo se spuštamo do Kosjerića. Tamo su nas čekali lokalni aktivisti koji pokušavaju da otvore alternativni kulturni centar. Imamo kratak intervju sa njima, pomalo su zbunjeni, ali sa dobrim planom šta dalje da rade. Mesto i dalje izgleda nedovršeno i treba ga puno obnoviti, ali u njih imamo poverenja. Posle Kosjerića, posećujemo Požegu i mural naše prijateljice, dizajnera i ulične umetnice Jelene Jaćimović, koja je trebalo da bude na putu sa nama, ali nije uspela da da uskladi obaveze. Mural je posvećen očuvanju biodiverziteta I borbi protiv mini hidro elektrana. Nastavljamo do Kušića, I tamo se iscrpljeni spuštamo se u krevete.

Trećeg dana smo se probudili u Kušićima, selu na planini Javor. Pogled na okolne planine je predivan, u sredini je stenoviti Mučanj. Odlučili smo se na 9 km dugu šetnju do lokalnih sela, gde vidimo da se broj stanovnika smanjuje, a kuće napuštaju, što je prethodnih decenija slika cele Srbije.

Lokalna škola, nekada deo velikog projekta obrazovanja seoskog stanovništva, među 300 drugih škola, srušena je. Nekoliko lokalne dece koja su ostala u selu moraju svakod- nevno da pešače do škole 9 km u jednom smeru! Generacije stanovnika Javorske Ravne gore odlazile su u Beograd i dalje, a samo se nekoliko njih vraćalo da svoje stare dane provede u selu.

Jedino što ljude tamo zadržava su plantaže maline, koja je “ crveno zlato” tog kraja. Plantaže su posvuda na strmim padinama. 73 Po povratku u Kušiće, odlučujemo da se putem spustimo do Ivanjice, što nas vodi u dugu vožnju kroz prelepu prirodu i zalazak sunca.

Ivanjica je mali, ali lep, uredan grad u dolini, sa prelepim parkom i rekom Moravicom sa vodopadom.

Uz kafu razgovaramo o sutrašnjoj vožnji i nakon toga se vraćamo u Kušiće da se odmori- mo, jer nas sutra čeka dug dan.

Trećeg dana krenuli smo rano ujutro, uz „blagoslov“ našeg domaćina. Nakon Kušića prati nas slaba kiša, ali nastavljamo dalje. Penjemo se uzbrdo, znojavi I zadihani, ali priroda je prelepa, a vazduh čist, predivnog mirisa! Posle 13 km stižemo do vrha planine Javor, Vasilijinog vrha. Moramo da ostavimo bicikle i popnemo se još 700 metara peške, ali vredi, pogled je kao sa vrha sveta, a mi smo iscrpljeni, ali srećni! Nakon ove šetnje odlučujemo da krenemo zemljanim putem biciklima, a adrenalin počinje da pumpa, kada smo se počeli da se spuštamo stenovitim putem. Ruke grčevito stiskaju kočnice, ne osećamo se prijatno kao na asfaltu, izbegavamo kamenje i neravnine. Nakon strme padine konačno dolazimo do asfalta i nastavljamo da vozimo kroz sve lepši pejzaž kanjona isušene planinske reke. Na kraju stižemo do Sjeničkog jezera i pravimo kratku pauzu u restoranu Elko da popijemo lokalnu kafu iz fildžana.

Ubrzo stižemo do čamca lokalnih rendžera na Uvačkom jezeru i započinjemo obilazak brodićem do zemlje orlova. Beloglavi supovi su ugrožena vrsta i zaštićeni su na ovom području. Rendžeri ih štite i hrane ih lešinama životinja, što je rezultiralo time da ih od preostalih 7 komada iz devedesetih godina danas imamo skoro 500!

Možete ih videti svuda oko jezera Uvac, sa prelepim meandrima, liticama i stenama, gde se orlovi gnezde. Oni kruže u velikim grupama i poziraju posetiocima nacionalnog parka. Posle vožnje čamcem i razgovora sa rendžerima, popeli smo se na vrh Molitva, a zatim prošetali 7 km duž meandara jezera Uvac. Nekada je to bila reka, a sada je akumulacija hidroelektrane. Na kraju, uz zalazak sunca, gospođa iz kampa priča nam kako ih je posetila Kim Kardašjan kao deo opštinske strategije privlačenja turista, kao da su prelepoj prirodi potrebe sestre Kardašijan da se promoviše. Nakon dugog dana, hitamo u hotel u Sjenici da se smestimo.

Četvrti dan smo se probudili u hotelu Borići u Sjenici, na prelepom mestu, okruženom borovom šumom, tako da nam nisu smetale sobe sa mirisom prošlog veka, gde kablovi vise sa plafona. Posle doručka požurili smo da vidimo lokalnu džamiju, poznatu po svojoj najvećoj kupoli u tom kraju, izgrađenu bez ikakvih stubova. Datira iz 19. veka, a sagrađena je kao zadužbina sultanovoj majci, pa se naziva Valide džamija, a sagradio ju je sultan Abdulaziz kao simbol osmanskog prisustva i dominacije na ovom području. Kratko smo razgovarali sa zamenikom lokalnog imama, koji nam je rekao više o džamiji i njenoj nameni.

Posle Sjenice žurimo ka Pešteru, visoravni između Sjenice, Tutina i Novog Pazara, obeležja Sandžaka, što je turska reč za administrativni region. Predeo oduzima dah, na sve strane nepregledni pašnjaci , dan prelep. Posle nekoliko sati vožnje svraćamo do lokalnog izvora ledeno hladne vode, dok pored nas lokalni klinci prolaze golfom, ostavljajući nas u oblaku prašine. Nisu stariji od dvanaest, možda trinaest godina. Nastavljamo vožnju, dok desetine helikoptera prolaze iznad naših glava kao u filmu Apokalipsa danas, žureći u neku vojnu vežbu. Predeli zelenih, a ponekad i stjenovitih brežuljaka se smenjuju u krajoliku. Ponekad, kako se penjemo, iza brežuljaka postepeno 74 izviruju vrhovi minareta. Uglavnom koristimo zemljane puteve, pa je teže voziti, ali niko se ne žali, svi želimo da taj dan traje zauvek. Videli smo samo nekoliko automobila koji su prolazili. Na kraju magija Pešterske visoravni prestaje i stižemo do manastira Sopoćani, gde sa monahom pijemo kafu i razgovaramo o Beogradu, biciklizmu i urban- izmu. Kasnije smo večerali u prelepom restoranu pod srednjovekovnim glavnim gradom Srbije Rasom, zaštićenim od UNESCO-a. Zatim, počinje luda večernja vožnja do Novog Pazara. Naš hotel nalazimo u laganoj vožnji kroz gužvu na ulasku u grad.

Novi Pazar je administrativni centar I neka vrsta “glavnog grada” područja, a dok ulazimo u živopisni centar grada, vidimo sukob kultura i arhitektonskih stilova. Veliki džipovi zauzimaju male i uske ulice u otomanskom stilu, mladi ljudi sede po restoranima i kafićima dok “masni” bas pumpa iz noćnih klubova i BMW-a, subota je veče. Preko svega, Mujezin poziva na molitvu jednog od desetina minareta širom grada.

Sutradan, nakon tradicionalnog lokalnog doručka, otišli smo u susret lokalnim biciklističkim aktivistima. Na glavnom trgu, puno ljudi. Ljudi žure, puno pešaka i automobila. Oko nas su gradilišta zgrada koje rastu kao pečurke nakon kiše. Višespratne zgrade zauzimaju mesto starih osmanskih kuća, nekada znamenitosti grada. Nadamo se da će barem centar biti sačuvan od tog urbanističkog haosa.

Naši domaćini, Damir, Esko i Dušan dolaze iz različitih sredina. Damir je aktivista i profesor škole, Esko je profesionalni trkački biciklista koji je svojevremeno čak i pobedio slavnog Sagana, a Dušan je direktor sportskog centra Novog Pazara.

Domaćini su nas odveli do Hamama (tursko kupatilo iz 17. veka), sačuvanog i pretvorenog u kafić. Čak smo i bicikle ostavili unutra! Dečaci nose čaj i kafu na visećem pladnju, kao u Istanbulu. Tradicionalna turska kafa je kuvana na žaru i domaćini tvrde da daje drugačiji, bolji ukus. Klimamo glavom, ali među nama kafa, ima isti ukus kao I sa ringle.

Shvatamo da su saobraćajni problemi Novog Pazara i Beograda gotovo isti, puno automobila u centru grada, uske ulice i jaka balkanska autocentrična kultura. Mesto za parkiranje je svetinja.

Oni traže trenutna rešenja, poput nas kada smo počinjali kao Ulice za bicikliste. Pokušavam da im kažem da ovo nije kratka trka, već maraton. Promena prioriteta u saobraćaju trajala je decenijama čak i u zapadnoj Evropi. Insistiraju na plaćanju čaja i kafe, čak organizuju i profesionalnog turističkog vodiča Samira da nam pokaže centar grada, džamije i „čaršiju“. Nudimo im da zajedno postavimo naš biciklistički tepih (kopiju bicikilstičke staze na crvenom platnu) ispred opštine, ali oni to odbijaju i nisu voljni da još uvek izađu u javnost.

Posle rastanka sa njima, pakujemo se i idemo da vidimo Petrovu crkvu na izlazu iz grada i nastavljamo biciklom do grada Raške. Duž Ibarske magistrale biciklizam postaje neprijatan sa puno teških kamiona, pa pakujemo bicikle na automobile i nastavljamo do Vranja.

Sutradan, posle doručka, idemo biciklama do obližnjeg Bujanovca, 20 kilometara od Vranja.

Dok ulazimo u ovaj mali grad u kojem Albanci i Srbi žive zajedno, nakon što smo se zbunili gde da krenemo nakon kružnog toka, čuli smo kako nam lokalno stanovništvo govori „taj smer je za Kosovo*, ovo je Srbija“. 75 Shvatamo da su ljudi i dalje nacionalno podeljeni, ali sve izgleda u redu dok ulazimo u pešačku zonu. Pošto nismo uspeli da pronađemo kafić u kome možemo da platimo kreditnom karticom, lokalni Albanci nas zovu u svoj kafić.

Insistiraju na plaćanju računa, pa mi pijemo kafu i čaj i ćaskamo s njima o biciklizmu i našem projektu. Povremeno ne razumeju naš brzi srpski, pa moramo da govori- mo polako. Delujemo im interesantno, sa našim majicama Balkankaravana i biciklima, smešnim bradama i kapama, dok snimamo nekakav video.

Uskoro, naš domaćin zove svog prijatelja koji je strastveni biciklista, ali on dolazi na Harli Dejvidsonu. Zajedno se malo smejemo, a oni razgovaraju o zajedničkim vožnjama sa biciklistima sa Kosova*.

Pozdravljamo ih, mi odlazimo, ali najpre crveni biciklistički tepih postavljamo ispred opštine Bujanovac. Obezbeđenje izlazi, ali dok ih ljubazno molimo, dozvoljavaju nam da stavimo tepih i napravimo fotografije. Kad dođete na biciklu, svako shvati da morate imati dobre namere!

Uskoro se brzo vozimo nazad do Vranja i završavamo sa ručkom u restoranu Mrkela. Najbolji roštilj ikad, sada shvatamo zašto je jug Srbije toliko poznat po ovoj vrsti kuhin- je! Pomalo iscrpljeni, ali puni impesija, pakujemo se i krećemo put Beograda.

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