Text and photos by Scott Bennett Kilimanjaro, Ngorongoro Crater, the Serengeti... boasting a wealth of natural beauty that reads like a lexicon of African icons, Tanzania is a wildlife enthusiast’s dream destination. However, this rich bounty isn’t limited to just the land, as the warm waters fringing its coast are home to some of the most spectacular reefs in all of East Africa. Having dived exclusively in the Asia-Pacific region, I was eager to experience an entirely new Jewels of destination. While perusing the exhibitor list at last year’s DEMA show, the exotic name of “Swahili Divers” virtually leapt up to grab my attention. Sauntering over for Tanzania a look, I met owners Farhat and African Safari & Pemba Island Diving Francisca Jah. Known to friends as Raf and Cisca, both are long- time Africa enthusiasts with their base of operations on the island of Pemba situated in the Indian Ocean off the Tanzanian coast. Separated from the mainland by the deep, cold waters of the Pemba Channel, the island is regarded as one of the supreme jewels in Tanzania’s diving crown. The thought of a dive trip combined with a safari proved irresistible, and I was sold on the spot! Despite its somewhat far- flung location, Pemba proved surprisingly easy to get to. From my home base in Toronto, Canada, the trip took less than 17 hours plus a stopover in

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Amsterdam. The international gateway thunderstorm before finally landing at capitol of Chake Chake, the roads is Dar es Saalam, the country’s largest Pemba’s diminutive terminal. became progressively rougher with city and home to over three million compared to the bustle of oxcarts providing the primary form inhabitants. My late night arrival neighbouring Zanzibar, the atmosphere of vehicular transport. Nearing our necessitated an overnight stop in the on Pemba was decidedly sedate. destination, the road entered the city. The thrill of finally being in Africa Pemba’s fertile countryside is blessed verdant confines of the Ngezi forest. made for a very sleepless night. with undulating hills of verdant green Home to the island’s last expanse of the next morning, it was back to the interspersed with fertile valleys and protected forest, the reserve hosts airport for my domestic flight to Pemba. forests. Coconut palms dominated prolific wildlife, including five endemic The island, along with neighbouring the landscape along with a myriad of bird species. Dense stands of red Unguja (the main island, informally mango, breadfruit, and banana and mahogany towered above, while referred to as Zanzibar) and a host clove trees. The dominant crop on vervet monkeys peered down from the of smaller islands comprises Zanzibar, the island, cloves, were introduced by lofty branches. After a scenic 90-minute a separate state within the United the Omani Arabs from Mauritius. Over drive, we finally reached the turnoff to Republic of Tanzania. three million clove trees are found the resort. After boarding my ZanAir island- throughout the island and is now a established in 1999, Swahili Divers hopper, it was only a 20-minute flight bigger producer than Zanzibar itself. had its original base of operations in to Zanzibar, where we had had a brief Clove smuggling is considered a very the town of Chake Chake. Then, in stopover before resuming the journey serious offence on the island—a fact October 2006, Raf and Cisca opened to Pemba. My visit also coincided reinforced by the numerous police their newly built Kervan Seray Beach with the advent of the rainy season. checkpoints passed on the way. Enroute, we skirted an immense Driving north from the regional Reef scene at Manta Point (right) Close-up of nudibranch (above) 21 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tanzania Resort on the northwest coast of the island. Accommodation is in simple but comfortable bungalows featuring spacious four-poster beds draped with mosquito netting. The outdoor bathrooms are equipped with showers providing solar-heated water. Electricity is available in the evenings between 6:00 and 11:00pm, and for those that absolutely cannot live without it, internet access is available via satellite. The 30-40 staff members come from Chake Chake and the nearby village of Makangale. Upon checking into my room, I soon came across some of the local wildlife, albeit of the creepy-crawly variety. Moving languidly across my outdoor bathroom floor was a decidedly ZANZIBAR HISTORY Swahili culture. The name Swahili is derived hefty millipede Lured by the promise from the Arab word sawahil, which means that was big of trade and ‘coast’. Derived in part from Arabic, Swahili enough to put on conquest, ships from soon became the dominant language in the a dinner roll. Arabia, Persia, India region and eventually went on to become As the and as far away as the national language of Tanzania. burgeoning China have plied the Portuguese occupied the island in humidity was Pemba’s waters for the 16th century before being displaced by starting to take its nearly 2000 years. Omani Arabs in 1698. In 1832, Sultan Seyyid toll, Cisca asked if Known as ‘Al Jazeera Said was so captivated by the Spice Islands I’d like to sample Al Khadra’ (the green that he shifted his capitol from Muscat to a local cold drink. island, in Arabic), Zanzibar, where he and his descendants Always eager Pemba, along ruled for over 130 years. to partake in with neighbouring The 19th century saw the dawn of the local cuisine Zanzibar, has long European colonialism in East Africa, with (providing it isn’t been at the centre various countries eager to gain a foothold to endangered), I of the most affluent exploit the region’s riches. The British arrived readily agreed. trade empire in East on the scene, forcing the Sultanates of Moments later, Africa. Carried by the Muscat and Zanzibar to separate and then I was presented with a brown bottle monsoon winds, Arab and Persian trading administering the islands in the name of the emblazoned with the lyrical name of dhows carried beads, cloth and Chinese Sultan. Stony Tangawizi. Sounding like the name porcelain to the African coast returning Zanzibar was also the starting point of a Flintstones character, I was pleasantly heavily laden with gold, ivory, spices and for the great European expeditions, with surprised to discover a crisp flavour slaves. The dhows have been a mainstay legendary explorers such as Burton, Speke reminiscent of ginger beer. I ended up throughout Pemba’s history, and to this day, and Livingston passing through as they set having a lot of them over the ensuing remain an enduring attribute of the East out to map the continent’s unexplored week. African coast. interior. Due in part to the efforts of Livingston Pemba’s first settlements were established and many others, the slave trade was finally Diving by the Shirazi Persians who arrived before the abolished in 1873. Today, Islam is still the Separated from the African continental 10th century. Intermarriage between Shirazis dominant religion and the island remains LEFT TO RIGHT: Skunk Anemonefish; Two shelf by sheer walls that drop down to and indigenous Africans gave birth to the fairly conservative. ■ Band Clownfish (inset); Monocled Hawksfish 22 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tanzania

Blood Spot Squirrelfish (left inset); Reef scene at Maziwe Reserve (above); Anemonefish and scuba diver (right)

of the day, with a wide variety of aboard in deep water proved to be a easily accessible dive sites. challenge, to say the least! After a day of rest, I was eager our first destination was a mere ten to get in the water. Well, not minutes away. Situated adjacent to TOO quickly. At high tide, the a historic old lighthouse dating from exposed shoreline consisted of a 1901, Swiss Reef turned out to be one large swathe of jagged exposed of those proverbial high-voltage drift limestone. The still wet surface dives you always hear about! Within necessitated careful negotiation, moments of descending, the powerful but my camera and I made it current propelled us over a series to the boat without incident. of undulating ridges rising from the Transport was courtesy of the seabed. A kaleidoscope of colourful resort’s Tornado Rigid inflatable reef fish swam effortlessly amongst boat. As polyurethane and the abundant tubastrea corals, but I soon over 300 metres, Pemba’s northwest hot African sun proved incompatible, the realized photographing anything coast is dominated by a series of barrier tubes had been replaced with specially would be a near impossibility! I forgot islands separated by three passages: designed buoyant fiberglass pontoons. about the camera and just enjoyed the that evening, dinner was held in silhouetting the distant peaks of the Ngao, Fundo and Uvingi. At high tide, As there wasn’t a ladder, getting dive for the sheer joy of it. At one point, a large open thatched-roof bure Usambara Mountains on the mainland. large volumes of water flush through the on board proved to be somewhat a large bommie offered just enough overlooking the waters of the Pemba Everyone sat at the same table, creating passages, bringing in the big fish and interesting as I’m not, shall we say, protection from the raging current that Channel. I arrived just in time for a a friendly communal atmosphere. After providing nutrients for abundant coral petite. Hopping in from the shallows I could stop and photograph a large spectacular sunset, the sky ablaze with a sumptuous meal of freshly caught red species. Wall and drift dives are the order wasn’t a problem, but hauling myself school of yellow sweepers. intense hues of red, orange and yellow snapper, my Zanzibar spiced coffee

23 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tanzania travel LEFT TO RIGHT: Reef scene at Bunker dive site; entrance. According to Raf, this site is Channel attract a large number of Powder Blue not dived very often due to the strong game fish species. On one occasion, Surgeonfish; Fire currents that converge here. One day as Mohamed maneuvered the boat Dartfish; Map of we lucked out, arriving right at the into anchoring position, we saw Pemba Island verge of the slack tide. Entering the the unmistakable silhouette of a water, the surface sailfish erupt from the surface. Alas, it chop was fierce and didn’t make a repeat appearance it took some effort to underwater. descend down the One of the real pleasures of Pemba mooring line. The effort was observing a lot of new fish species. was interrupted was well worth it as the While many Pacific notables by a maniacal walls were adorned were present, such as Moorish idols, cackling with luxuriant fan corals coral trout, oriental sweetlips, regal resembling the garbed in pastel hues and emperor angelfish, there was also laughter of of pink, orange and myriad of Indian Ocean specialties. a demented red. Nearby was Emilio’s After one dive, I asked what the clown. Seeing Back Passage, which powder blue surgeonfish was. I was my perturbed featured a gigantic bemused to discover it actually WAS a expression, Cisca fissure hewn into the powder-blue surgeonfish! laughed and told sheer vertical wall. me it was merely Many divers could easily a greater galago, more commonly fit into it at once with room to spare. known as a bushbaby. Members of A bit further afield lay Fundo Gap. If the primate family, these cat-sized anything, the sites here proved to be creatures resemble the lemurs found on even more spectacular! Manta Point neighbouring Madagascar. featured a wall descending to 28m, At that moment, Raf brought out a with the reef top at 6-8m depending bottle of Turkish ouzo, also known as on the tide. Alas, the congregations of raki. The word Ouzo is a derivative of mantas that used to frequent the area uzum, which is Turkish for grapes. The are long gone, the unfortunate victims raki, in combination with my malaria of over fishing. Nevertheless, this was medication, infused my sleep with a stunning site boasting a tremendous dreams of Dali-esque proportions that variety of hard corals and abundant even a wailing bushbaby couldn’t fish life. A few weeks before my arrival, penetrate! a great hammerhead was sited just off The remainder of the week was the wall, as was a juvenile manta. spent exploring the area’s superlative Deep Freeze gets its name from the dive sites. The nearest passage to the cold upwellings surging up from the resort is NgaoGap, a ten-minute boat depths. Here, my borrowed 5mm suit ride away. End of the World and D F proved to be most useful indeed! Yellow Malan boasted hard coral gardens of fan corals adorned the precipitous unparalled diversity, with table and drops offs, while schools of yellowtail staghorn corals growing everywhere fusiliers congregated in the blue just off with reckless abandon. Cabbage the wall. At the current-swept point, corals were all over the place, stacked large schools of jacks and barracudas atop one another like tiers of a marine are routinely encountered. Although I wedding cake, while rocky outcrops missed them, I did spot a couple of big played host to numerous sponges, Napolean wrasse. Maddeningly, they anemones and bubble corals. proved to be just as camera-shy as their A bit more challenging was Rudy’s Pacific cousins. USG CIA Wall, situated right at the gap’s the deep waters of the Pemba

24 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Reef garden at Manta Point (left) Tanzania travel Yellow sweepers (below)

MAZIWE ISLAND MARINE RESERVE

There is also some good diving to be had off the mainland. Situated just off coast about 15 nautical miles east of Pangani town, Maziwe Island was established as a marine reserve in 1975. Communities living in the vicinity of the island are actively involved in conservation activities At one time, the island had extensive forest cover of coconut palms and large casuarina trees. Used by local residents as a place for rituals, the island was eventually overrun with goats and chickens. That, coupled with the clearance of the island’s vegetation, resulted in irreversible erosion before finally submerging between 1978-79. The reserve is biologically diverse with more than 200 species of fish and 35 species of hard and soft corals. Maziwe’s undersea environment is markedly different than Pemba, with large sandy areas punctuated by coral bommies draped in a thick mantle of sponges, anemones and hard corals. Schools of juvenile barracudas, yellow sweepers, anthias, damselfish and sweetlips congregate in abundance while nooks and crannies provide shelter for nudibranchs, flatworms, shrimps and dragonets. A number of resorts and guesthouses allow easy access to the reserve. I stayed at The Tides Resort, a luxurious resort right on the beach featuring stylishly appointed bungalows framed by swaying coconut palms. Diving is arranged by Kasa Divers, located at the Emayani Beach Lodge. Owners Kerstin and Wim are extremely knowledgeable about Maziwe’s dive sites and can arrange trips to the reserve. ■

other colourful denizens included potholes during the bumpy 20-min trip. staircase. Once at the top, my Alland’s anemonefish, ring-eyed Upon arrival, we were immediately discomfort was forgotten in seconds. hawkfish, lyretail hogfish and an thronged by a gaggle of curious Complimented by a refreshing exquisite Indian sand wrasse, its vivid children who stayed with us for the cool breeze, I was rewarded with a red body accented with white spots remainder of our visit. spectacular panorama encompassing encircled with black. Pemba is also the lighthouse certainly boasted a the entire northern end of the island. Ali home to some absolutely monstrous unique design—it’s towering central then gave a charming, well-rehearsed titan triggerfish. I’m eternally grateful column surrounded by an intricate speech on the lighthouse’s history that none of them exhibited aggressive network of rusted metal struts and before we headed back down again. behaviour! beams. Nearby, an ancient looking on the way back, we made a detour corrugated metal structure housed to Vumawimbi Beach on the other side Topside attractions several families, including that of Ali, of the peninsula. Azure waters lapped a Although it would have been easy the youthful-looking lighthouse keeper. powdery white-sand beach fringed with to spend all day in the water, I also He immediately asked if I wanted to coconut palms, while offshore, a small wanted to experience some of Pemba’s go up to the top. As heights aren’t my flotilla of Arabian-style dhows bobbed terrestrial attractions. One afternoon, favourite thing, I wasn’t particularly in the gentle surf. The only thing missing Laura from reception drove me up the enamored by the idea but threw from the idyllic scene was hordes of coast to visit the lighthouse I’d seen on caution to the wind and decided to go tourists. Welcome to Pemba! the first day. Despite only being in the for it. As well as being actively involved in country a short time, she handled the once inside, the heat was downright the local community, the resort even land rover like a true pro, effortlessly oppressive as I started the precipitous has its own fire engine. The “Green negotiating the copious ruts and climb up the constricting 30m spiral Goddess” is a circa 1950’s army vehicle

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Flatworm, Maziwe Reserve; Indian Sand Wrasse; Rose Phyllidelia nudibranch

that Raf shipped from the UK. Fire drills for doubled in one fell swoop and a number above one large the staff members are held on a regular of them were divers. Along with Raf, dive tubastrea, joined by basis. One afternoon, while watching guide Mohamed and the boatman, bronze soldierfish and the proceedings, I learned a valuable there were nine divers on board for the blood-spot squirrelfish. lesson: NEVER leave a camera bag 45-minute trip. Nearby, a large map unattended in the immediate vicinity of As it turned out, our destination was puffer waited patiently a fire hose. At one point, a staff member not Misali itself, but a special site known as a cleaner wrasse accidentally let go, and the wildly flailing only to Raf. Situated past the Uvingi Gap, performed its duties hose scored a direct hit on my hapless the small island of Kashani was alluring while vast swarms of camera bag. The blast flipped it upside enough above water, its shoreline basslets observed the down, spilling several lenses on to the encircled by waters of the most exquisite proceedings. Startled soggy ground. Miraculously, nothing was hue of turquoise. It also takes the prize by the unexpected damaged (but definitely a bit cleaner). for the most unlikely name for a dive site appearance of our I’ve ever heard: Slobodan’s Bunker. It group, a large potato Misali & Kashani Islands turns out Raf discovered the site the day cod bolted for the For my last full day of diving, Raf had Slobodan Milosovic was apprehended. safety of the depths. something special planned: a full day As we arrived just at the tail end of Upon hearing some excursion to Misali Island. All week long, the slack tide, everyone had to gear frantic tank banging, I’d practically been salivating at the up quickly in order to maximize our dive proved to be anything but. Entering the walls were the epitome of exuberance.. I spun around to see a large Napolean string of superlatives used to describe time before the currents became to water, I was instantly spellbound by a Tubastrea, whip, table and soft corals wrasse. Moments later, a school of five Misali’s undersea treasures, so I couldn’t strong. site of staggering diversity. Resembling jostled each other for space along swam by further below with one of the wait! It was also a full boat. The previous Although the name “bunker” conjures the knuckle of a gigantic hand with the with tube and barrel sponges. A school divers in hot pursuit. Boasting a gigantic, evening, the number of guests virtually up visions of drabness, Slobodan’s fingers outstretched, the coral- shrouded of blackspotted sweetlips hovered humped forehead, the male fish

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leading the entourage was the largest duration of the dive. The highlight was several centuries ago, but as the local specimen I’ve ever seen. I started to an exquisite nudibranch with a semi- population abstains from eating pork, follow until I checked my computer; transparent white body etched with a their numbers increased exponentially. I was already at 26m. The other diver patchwork of yellow lines. Wow! The reserve is also home to a myriad of was already well beneath me, the fish birds, five of which are endemic. beneath her and the bottom plainly Ngezi Forest stroll After checking in at the park office visible beneath all of the above. It was On my last afternoon, I arranged a with ranger Ali, I went on a walk with at that moment I realized the visibility walking tour through the nearby Ngezi my guide Ali (I was beginning to was easily 40m! I thought it would be Forest. At one time, swathes of wonder if that was the only first name a good idea to ascend to shallower forest once dominated much of on the entire island). Within moments, water. Unfortunately, the dive ended the island, but starting in the mid we came across what seemed to be way to soon. I could have easily spent 19th century, much was cleared for the reserve’s most numerous resident. the rest of the day here. clove cultivation. Encompassing 1440 The damp pathway was strewn with a After a shore interval on a blindingly hectares, the reserve was established plethora of giant millipedes. white beach, we headed for our final in the 1950’s to protect last remaining Upon entering the confines of dive at a site called Atta Turk just off stands of the island’s indigenous forest. the forest, the humidity packed an Uvingi Island. This time, I was set up It is home to abundant wildlife immediate wallop. Clusters of epiphytic for macro, and there was plenty to including vervet monkeys, blue duiker ferns shrouded the trees, while an keep my camera occupied. Two-band (a small forest antelope), hyrax, marsh extraordinary array of writhing vines clownfish, porcelain crabs, pipefish, fire mongoose and several species of bats cascaded down to the expansive dartfish, flatworms and a host of other including the endemic Pemba flying buttress roots below. Ali could name critters kept my shutter clicking for the fox. The Portuguese introduced pigs every tree, many of which were used Lighthouse view (above); Pemba at sunset (top left) 27 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Smiling boy; Tanzania travel Masai woman; Swahili Divers base for medicinal purposes by the local Several hours to the west, the Western the arid Masai Steppes 1000m below. people. Usambaras provide a totally different Numerous resorts cater to frequent After a sensational week, it was time experience. Much higher in elevation, tourists, particularly expats, who come to bid Pemba adieu. Raf and Cisca they also boast a very different look with here to escape the sweltering heat of were gracious hosts and the relaxing extensive stands of eucalyptus trees the nearby coast. atmosphere and good company carpeting the slopes. made my departure difficult to say the the steep-sided valleys are home Mkomazi National Park. Despite being least. The island made for a unique to a diverse patchwork of cultivated in the country for nearly two weeks, I introduction to Africa but a highly farmland, plantations and patches of had yet to experience the quintessential memorable one. indigenous forest. Situated at 1400m, the African bush. That introduction was town of Lushoto is the gateway to the made in a rather unique and special region. A number of German colonial place. Mkomazi National Park is buildings dating from the early 20th Tanzania’s newest, having been century can be found rubbing shoulders established in 2007. With its northern with colourful local markets. boundary adjoining Tsavo National park A number of nature reserves offer a in neighbouring Kenya, the park was plethora of scenic walking trails through initially established as a Game Reserve lush native forest brimming with birdlife in 1951. Mkomaze takes its name from and cascading waterfalls. Lying at the Pare tribe’s word for “scoop of water”, in edge of the Usambara massif, the Irente reference to the dry conditions. Viewpoint offers stupendous views across Lying in the shadow of the Usambara

-based safari company run by Chris a string of 13 ancient ranges that are Piller and his partner Ingrid Vaes. the oldest in East Africa. Often dubbed Gateway to the northern safari “Africa’s Galapagos”, these mountains circuit, the city of Arusha is the contain the highest number of endemic country’s safari headquarters with species in all of Africa. While large over 200 government-recognized animals are conspicuously absent, the safari companies (and half as many area is a treasure trove of endemic again that aren’t). They arranged species, particularly, birds, reptiles and an incredible personalized itinerary amphibians. that not only included icons like Ngorongoro and the Serengeti, but Amani Nature Reserve. Tucked away also some lesser-known destinations at the eastern end of the ranges, the such as the Usambara Mountains and Amani Nature Reserve is a botanical Mkomazi National Park, the country’s wonderland. Opened in 1997, the reserve newest. Joining me was John, my protects 10,000ha of the most extensive Tanzanian driver. With 15 years montane rainforest to be found in game-spotting experience under his Tanzania. A series of excellent walking belt, I knew I was in good hands. trails offers sublime forest scenery and African safari outstanding birdwatching. At the last No trip to Tanzania would be complete Usambara Mountains. Our first stop count, 340 species have been recorded without experiencing some of the was the Usambara Mountains, situated here including 19 endemics. Noteworthy country’s spectacular national parks and inland from the Swahili coast near the residents include silvery-cheeked reserves. Protecting a remarkable 25 Kenyan border. One doesn’t usually think hornbills, Fischer’s touraco, Usambara percent of the country, they are home to of rainforest in savannah-dominated eagle owl and a host of sunbirds, an extraordinary diversity of wildlife. The east Africa, but the Usambaras rise starlings and flycatchers. Chameleons hard part was deciding where to start! from the surrounding plains like an are especially prolific and the area is Before leaving home, Cisca put me archipelago of forest-clad islands. They the original home of a flower known the in touch with Bush2Beach, an Arusha are part of the Eastern Arc Mountains, world over: the African violet.

28 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Elephants at Arusha (left) Tanzania travel View of Ngorongoro (below) continent’s fifth highest peak, lucky,” intoned John with a smile days here. Due to my incessant rising to an elevation of 4,566 as most visitors to rarely encounter picture taking, we didn’t get to metres. The luxuriant montage elephants. visit all the stops on our itinerary. The luxuriant montage forest is Further north, rolling grassy hills Ngurdoto Crater, whose steep, inhabited by prolific birdlife, blue encircle the serene beauty of rocky cliffs enclose a broad monkeys and red duiker. It is also the Momela Lakes, whose shal- marshy floor dotted with herds one of the best places in the lows are often awash with the of buffalo, will have to wait until country to see the striking black pink hues of thousands of greater next time. However, the park had and white colubus monkey. We and lesser flamingos. Other bird- one final surprise in store. Just as were even fortunate to observe life includes crowned cranes, we reached the park gate at sun- one on the ground, looking the Egyptian geese and a myriad of set, I turned to see that the veil entire world like a misplaced herons and egrets. Due to the of cloud had dispersed, reveal- skunk as it scampered across absence of lions, it is one of the ing Kilimanjaro’s imposing snow- a grassy clearing enroute to a few parks in Tanzania that allow capped summit. nearby tree. walking safaris, albeit with an on the way back down, we armed guard. Exploring the park Ngorongoro Crater. Undoubtedly, rounded a corner to discover four on a 90-minute walk was a defi- one of Tanzania’s crown jewels is elephants grazing in a clearing at nite highlight of my entire trip. the Ngorongoro Crater. Not actu- the forest’s edge. “You are VERY I could have easily spent a few ally a national park, the crater is

and Pare Mountains, the park encom- experience an unspoiled landscape with passes 3700 square kilometers of semi- virtually no tourists. Mkomazi doesn’t share arid savannah dotted with acacia her secrets easily, but when she does, it is scrub and baobab trees. It is home to truly special. a number of dry country species rarely encountered elsewhere in Tanzania, Arusha National Park. Another overlooked including fringe-eared oryx, lesser kudu gem lies virtually on the doorstep of the and the gerenuk—a gazelle distinguished city of Arusha. Only 40 minutes from by its habit of standing tall on its hind legs the bustle of the city, Arusha National to reach for acacia leaves utilizing its Park offers an enthralling assortment elongated neck. Other residents include of habitats ranging from savannah giraffe, hartebeest, Grant’s gazelle, and acacia woodlands to rolling hills, elephant, zebra and dik-dik (a diminutive lakes and mountain slopes shrouded antelope). An unexpected bonus was a with lush rainforest, allowing visitors a close encounter with a female cheetah chance to experience a broad range and her two cubs; I was told that of environments in a relatively compact cheetahs weren’t even known to live in area. The diverse animal population the park. White-bellied go-away birds, includes, giraffes, zebras, buffalos, martial eagles, red-billed hornbills, black baboons, elephants, hippos, leopards, bellied bustards, ostrich, secretary birds hyenas, waterbucks, warthogs and a and lilac-breasted rollers are just a few of wide range of antelope species. the 450 species of birds. the dominating feature is the imposing the animals here tend to be skittish, as silhouette of Mt. Meru, its summit and they have long associated people and eastern slopes protected within the vehicles with guns. While viewing wildlife confines of the national park. While not may not be as easy as in some of the attaining the lofty heights of its more big parks, it provides an opportunity to illustrious neighbour, Kilimanjaro, it is the

29 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Leopard in tree on the Serengeti; African Buffalo at Ngorongoro Crater; Giraffe portrait at Arusha; Male lion on the Serengetii; travel Wildebeest on the Serengeti (bottom) Tanzania a part of the Ngorongoro Crater the world’s largest intact volcanic hyena and some impressive bull had one full morning at the cra- Conservation area, which encom- caldera. A proverbial Garden of elephants sporting some of the big- ter. Then, I discovered why; entry passes an area of 8300 square Eden, the crater floor is home to gest tusks to be seen in East Africa. fees to the park are a whopping kilometres. Ngorongoro is an estimat- One of the most notable (and US$200.00 per vehicle­­—and that’s a place of superlatives. ed 25,000 endangered) residents is the black not necessarily for the whole day. Standing at the viewpoint large mam- rhino. Poached to virtual extinction If you leave the crater and come at 2300m is nothing short mals. All the throughout East Africa, Ngorongoro back later in the day, the fee is of awe-inspiring. Stretching mainstays is one of their last strongholds in charged again Apparently, this 23 kilometres across, this are here Tanzania. Rigorously protected, increase was initiated to help vast natural amphitheatre is including there are estimated to be 19-25 reduce tourist traffic, which, can elephant, individuals inhabiting the crater. look like a traffic jam at rush hour. lion, hippo, There is one prominent absentee, During my visit in the wet season, warthog, however: giraffes. This is due to the tourists were few, and the crater ostrich, buf- relative lack of acacia trees, whose floor was a vibrant carpet of lush falo, spotted leaves are their favourite food. green grass. While some cynics I was initially may liken the experience to a disappointed to gigantic safari park, this is no zoo! discover we only The predators mix freely with the

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prey, creating an unparalled wildlife experi- usually sleep 20 hours a day. Lying on their in a heartbeat, but the experience will ence that is not to be missed. backs with legs splayed, they resemble last a lifetime. It’s definitely a journey I will giant housecats, although their inoffensive undertake again. ■ Serengeti. Bordering Ngorongoro is appearance would change dramatically if Tanzania’s most famous national park, a person decided to exit the vehicle. NOTES the world–renowned Serengeti. A World other large cats make their home in Visas can be obtained on arrival, but are Heritage Site, its name is derived from the the park. A keen eye may reveal the best applied for in advance. However, not Masai word “siringet”, meaning empty telltale tail of a leopard lounging high all foreign visitors require visas, so it’s best place. The sense of space is overwhelming, in an acacia tree, while cheetahs are to check with the Tanzania government with endless skies presiding over a vast often observed sitting on rocky outcrops website for any additional information. A plain teeming with wildlife. It also plays host scanning the horizon for prey. number of domestic carriers service Pemba to one of the greatest wildlife spectacles the junction of the Seronera and Orange daily via Zanzibar. I flew with ZanAir. The on the planet. Commencing at the end rivers boasts a deep pool that is a favourite vast majority of these flights employ small of April, up to one million wildebeest haunt of hippos. Lazing about in the water, aircraft such as Dash 8’s, so baggage congregate in the park’s southern section their generally placid demeanor belies the weight is limited to around 15kg. This may before commencing their migration to fact that they kill more people in Africa prove to be a problem if you are travelling Kenya to follow the rains. Joining them each year than every other large animal with heavy gear, so it is recommended that are several hundred thousand zebra and combined. Crocodiles are also frequently you contact the airline well in advance for numerous species of gazelle . encountered here, although they give the any special requirements. The combined A characteristic feature of the park’s hippos a wide berth. Bird life is especially flight time is around 50 minutes. Swahili southern areas the distinctive outcrops prolific with over 500 species present. After Divers can arrange transfers to the resort. of granite boulders called kopjes. They three days of non-stop photography, both Visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/visa are especially popular with lions, which my camera and I were exhausted. Swahili Divers Swahilidivers.com perch imperiously atop the large granite With its seemingly infinite bounty of Bush 2Beach Safaris Bush2beach.com boulders. Those who bemoan lions’ lack of attractions both over and under the water, Tides Resort Thetideslodge.com activity in zoos will be surprised to discover Tanzania was unlike any destination I Kasa Divers Emayanilodge.com CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Flamingos at they are just as active in the wild, as they have visited before. Three weeks flew by ZanAir Zanair.com Arusha; Crowned Crane at Arusha; Lilac-Breasted Roller at Mkomazi 31 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Location of Tanzania on global map BELOW: Location of Pemba Island on map of Tanzania fact file FAR RIGHT: Serengeti view Tanzania Lake UGANDA Victoria Bukoba KENYA RWANDA Musoma

Mwanza Mount sources: US cia world fact book, BURUNDI Kilimanjaro SCUBADOC.COM Arusha

History Tanganyika and Zanzibar came Ocean 0m. Highest Tabora Pemba Kigoma Tanga together to form the nation of Tanzania point: Kilimanjaro in 1964 shortly after attaining independ- 5,895m. Note: Pangani Lake Dodoma Zanzibar ence from Britain in the early 1960s. In Kilimanjaro marks Tanganyika 1995, one-party rule came to an end the highest point in DAR ES Zanzibar with the first democratic elections held Africa. The mountain Kiunguja (name for Swahili in Zanzibar), Iringa SALAAM Mafia in the country since the 1970s. However, is bordered by three CONGO English (official and primary language of two contentious elections since 1995 of the largest lakes Sumbawanga Environmental issues Marine commerce, administration, and higher INDIAN were spurred by Zanzibar’s semi-auton- on the continent: habitats are threatened by destruc- education), Arabic (widely spoken in Mbeya Kilwa OCEAN omous status and popular opposition. Lake Victoria (the Masoko tion of coral reefs. Other issues include Zanzibar), several local languages. Note: Despite international observers’ claims of second-largest fresh- soil degradation, deforestation, deser- Kiswahili (Swahili) is the native tongue of Lake voting irregularities, the ruling party won. water lake on the Nyasa Lindi tification, marginal agriculture suffer the Bantu people living in Zanzibar and Mtwara Government: republic. Capital: Dar es planet) in the north, Songea regional droughts, wildlife is threatened adjacent coastal Tanzania. The language’s Salaam Lake Tanganyika (the ZAMBIA by illegal hunting and trade, especially vocabulary draws on a variety of sources second-deepest lake MALAWI ivory. Tanzania is party to: Biodiversity, including English and Arabic, even though Geography Tanzania is located in the world) in the Climate Change, Climate Change-Kyoto Kiswahili is Bantu in structure and origin. in Eastern Africa and borders the west, and Lake Nyasa MOZAMBIQUE Protocol, Desertification, Endangered Kiswahili is now the lingua franca of Indian Ocean, between Kenya and in the southwest. Species, Hazardous Wastes, Law of the central and eastern Africa. However, local Mozambique. Terrain includes vast plains Sea, Ozone Layer Protection, Wetlands languages are usually the first language of along the coast, a central plateau, Economy In terms of per capita minerals, with gold at the head. Banking most people. and highlands in the north and south. income, Tanzania is in the bottom ten reforms in recent years have helped Currency Tanzanian shillings (TZS) Coastline: 1,424 km. Lowest point: Indian percent of the world’s economies. The increase investment and private-sector Exchange rates: 1EUR=1,893.23TZS; Health There is a very high degree of economy depends mostly on agriculture, growth. Natural resources: hydropower, 1USD=1,315.00TZS; 1GBP=2,234.24TZS; risk for: food or waterborne diseases such which makes up more than 40% of GDP, tin, phosphates, iron ore, coal, dia- 1AUD=1,105.57TZS; 1SGD=917.059TZS as bacterial diarrhea, hepatitis A, and contributes 85% of exports, and gives monds, gemstones, gold, natural gas, typhoid fever; vectorborne diseases such jobs to 80% of the work force. However, nickel. Agriculture: coffee, sisal, tea, Population 41,048,532 (July 2009 est.) as malaria and plague; water contact topography and climatic conditions cotton, pyrethrum (insecticide made In poverty: 36% (2002 est.) Living with diseases such as schistosomiasis; and limit cultivated crops to just 4% of the from chrysanthemums), cashew nuts, AIDS: 1.4 million (2007 est.) Ethnic groups: animal contact diseases such as rabies land mass. Industry in the country tradi- tobacco, cloves, corn, wheat, cassava mainland - African 99% (of which 95% are (2009) tionally featured light consumer goods (tapioca), bananas, fruits, vegetables; Bantu consisting of more than 130 tribes), and the processing of agricultural pro- cattle, sheep, goats. Industry: agricultural other 1% (consisting of Asian, European, Recompression Chamber ducts. Funds from the World Bank, the processing (sugar, beer, cigarettes, sisal and Arab); Zanzibar - Arab, African, EAST AFRICA HYPERBARIC CENTRE IMF, and bilateral donors were provided twine); mining of diamond, gold, and mixed Arab and African. Religion: main- Zanzibar, Tanzania to rehabilitate Tanzania’s out-of-date iron, salt, soda ash; cement, oil refining, land - Christian 30%, Muslim 35%, indig- Tel: +9255 (0)77 330 0865 economic infrastructure and to reduce shoes, apparel, wood products, fertilizer enous beliefs 35%; Zanzibar - more than poverty. Long-term growth through 2005 99% Muslim. Internet users: 400,000 (2007) Links saw an increase in industrial produc- Climate Tropical along the coast; tem- Pemba information tion and a substantial rise in output of perate in the highlands. Natural hazards: Time UTC+3 www.pemba.net drought and flooding during the rainy Tanzania Tourism Board Kervan Seray Resort season on the central plateau Language Kiswahili or Swahili (official), Tanzaniatouristboard.com ■ www.kervansaraybeach.com 32 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Magnificent anemone; Fishing dhow in channel; Chomodoris lochi on lattice coral; Marbled cleaner shrimp: Flatworm; Chromodoris africana nudibranch on sponge

The spacious, purpose- I’d started the morning in Dar-es- past the palm trees, down the built dhow slid through the Salaam and caught a Coastal small beach, and onto the wait- Airways Cessna 182 for the ing dhow. On the leisurely cruise calm Indian Ocean. We 20-minute 07:30 flight to Stone out to a reef near Bawe Island, were briefed sitting under Town on the west coast of Unguja, acquaintances were made and the shade area of the more commonly known as the loudmouth been-there-done- deck, then kitted up and Zanzibar, for some low-level sun- it-all-in-25-dives Harvard post-grad rise shots of the outlying reefs. Ten Italian diver was quickly identified went through our buddy minutes in a taxi, and I was kitting and avoided as a buddy. checks before a giant up at One Ocean Divers, a mug the wreck itself was a tad dis- stride took us into the 30°C of coffee steaming next to me. appointing. Although the briefing sea. Looking down, I could one Ocean started 16 years by Amani had covered all the ago, and in 1999, it was taken essentials and had been thorough just make out the dive site, over by Aussie Gary Greig and in terms of safety procedures, no an old British lighter, 27 his South African wife, Gail. From indication of the size of the wreck metres below me. It was one dive shop in Stone Town, had been given. Hence, my initial they now operate from four other thoughts of “With a lifeboat that 9:30 a.m. and the day was resorts around the island. Kit size, it must be a huge wreck” ZanzibarDiving Unguja & Pemba Island going fantastically. was dished out whilst more cof- soon turned to disappointment fee was brewed and then con- when Amani went straight for it. Text and photos sumed, before we were walked It was host to a large school of by Christopher Bartlett 33 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel

CLOCKWISE: Zanzibar’s west coast; Detail of giant clam; Featherstar; Scorpionfish; Bifurcated flatworm; Healthy table corals; Diver with large gorgonian fancoral; Starfish

our best to convince our Italian expert that a Stonefish sting really would spoil his day, it was time to pull on our shorties again. the visibility was around 15 metres, and the site deserved its moniker. Table and plate corals adorned the reef, and we spotted common lionfish, lots of nudis, an undulated moray eel, a hermit crab, huge gorgonian fans, a giant clam, and two blue spotted rays. However, the highlight of the dive was the large remora that took a fancy to Captain Fantastic’s bare leg, his squeals being

Aquarium at Murogo Reef (how many Aquariums are striped eel catfish and long strands of whip there around the world?), our coral (that numbered one less after some bellies were grumbling, and the unusual buoyancy “skills” from the Adriatic). crew laid out a spread fit for Omani Following the dive plan, we then finned away Sultans—once rulers of Zanzibar and the following the contours of the sandy bottom up to some most successful slave and spice traders outcrops of reef, home to a bearded scorpionfish, in Africa. and an assortment of triggerfish, butterflyfish, and After samoosas, spring rolls, chapat- coachmen. tis and fresh fruits and a leisurely spot by the time we’d started puttering along to The of digestion during which we tried

34 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar Stone Town Back on shore in Stone Town, there is a bit of sightseeing to do. Central Stone Town is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleyways, flanked by crumbling mansions and mosques. The main attrac- tions are the massive Zanzibari wooden doors, Mercury’s restaurant and bar (Freddy of Queen fame is Unguja’s most famous son) by Big Tree, vaguely reminiscent of dolphin the House of Wonders, the chatter as he trashed around Omani Fort, Tippu Tip’s house, trying to avoid its attempted the Hamamni Persian Baths, love bites. Back on the dhow, and the fish market (conser- he was informed that remora vationists beware: you will find like to live on sharks, and that sharks here). The night food one is never very far from the market in Forodhani Gardens other. “I could’ve been killed is alleged, by the same guide- then”, he shrieked. “If only,” book that I used in Dar es the “must-dive” of Unguja. thought I. Salaam, to host the best food With average viz 20 metres or the reefs around Stone Town market in East Africa. If the better, there are a multitude are fairly plentiful and other, guidebook was written for flies, of sites to dive, and its calm larger wrecks exist, too. And this is undoubtedly true. conditions make it suitable whilst any aficionado of Bass for novices and experienced Lake would gawk in amaze- Matemwe & Mnemba divers alike. ment at the coral formations Situated close to Mnemba one Ocean’s centre here and the fish life, the reefs have Atoll, a shallow expanse of was on the premises of the suffered greatly from plagues coral reef with a tiny heart- Beach Village where stand- of crown of thorns, draining shaped island on its western ard rooms are comfortable the coral of any colour. fringe surrounded by some and clean. The Shamba step drop-offs, Matemwe is suites are huge and charm-

CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Omani Fort; Mosque minaret and Anglican cathedral towers domi- nate the skyline of Stone Town. The cathedral was built over the old slave market; Typical Stone Town alleyway; Tinga tinga artist displays his work; Breakfast view of Stone Town from Hotel Kiponda; Forodhani Gardens, deserted in daylight, becomes a hive of activity in evenings with the food market; Detail and full view of Stone Town’s famous doors

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a relaxing atmos- After another dhow-diving phere that even lunch taken anchored over a the open water snorkelling site that had several students were divisions of sergeant majors flit- looking like sea- ting over it, it was time to visit soned veterans. Turtle Reef. The site was not If it was a one unbroken reef, but rather haven of peace coral mounds interspersed with and tranquil- sand, where unusual sightings lity on the boat, included two left-eyed flounder, under it, the a huge octopus in some rocks, ocean was buzz- and a grand total of zero turtles ing. With great between eight divers. However, viz, our first site lionfish fans were delighted; was West Bank. there was an abundance of Starting at six these delicate-looking but metres and then venom-carrying members of the rolling down into scorpionfish family. a 50m drop-off, having returned along the it was covered same road due to extra-low ingly decorated. Located next in reef fish and eels, hard and tides, instead of in the dhow, to the beautiful infinity pool a soft corals, and large schools of beers were cracked around few paces from the beach, it fusiliers. There were the intriguing the poolside bar and new arriv- also had excellent equipment, juvenile black snapper, dam- als greeted like distant cousins, friendly and efficient service. sels in the staghorn coral, royal before dinner and a relatively After a bumpy 45-minute and emperor angelfish, choco- early night under the sleep- drive to the launch site in a late dips, blue spotted rays, inducing whir of the strategically daladala and transfer to anoth- two-bar clown fish. Thumbing positioned fans. If you want to er purpose-built diving dhow, through the fish book back on treat yourself, the Shamba suites the MV Jessica, the divers car- the dhow, it was a case of “Saw are well worth the extra 50 dol- ried on the banter from the that, saw that, saw that, loads lars, and for a special romantic CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Green turtle with Remora fish; Striped eel catfish (above); Color-changing night before. More flat sea and of them, two of them, few of night for two, the honeymoon Spotfin lionfish; Matemwe Beach Village; Rock lobster octopus attempts to attract a mate baking sunshine make for such those, etc…” suite is even more secluded and

36 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar garden eels stick their heads out of the sand and start swaying to the tune of an invisible snake-charmer. Kendwa I caught a ride across the top of the island where there are two resorts to choose from. Nungwi was a dusty vil- lage that has rapidly grown into the most frequented and fashionable (read promoted) resort on the island. It has the liveliest nightclubs and the greatest selec- tion of restaurants, but is also overrun by tourists and has poor swimming beaches. For divers, there are a few local sites, but the best dives involve a long dhow trip to Mnemba. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Kendwa Beach is the longest in the the less-publicised resort of Kendwa north, good for a long walk; Weedy Scorpionfish; Bommie at End has a huge beach of the World dive site; White mouthed moray eel near Kichafi that is ideal for bathing even at low tide, offers a choice of eight places to stay, Porcupinefish swimming slowly ranging from thatched ban- above the table corals, false stone- das at 15 dollars a night, fish hid on the rocks whilst pep- to air-con en-suites, has six pered and white-mouthed morays restaurants, is the location skulked in crevices; paperfish of the only dive centre using swayed gently in rocky recesses, zodiacs (rubber ducks), and rock cod went about their business has some great local reefs. and, looking off into the beautiful By operating with the faster blue, a napoleon wrasse cruised by craft, Scuba-Do can get unperturbed by a school of kingfish. their divers past Nungwi, the last dive was at Mnemba’s round the tip of the island, take on The Aquarium. With a more and onto Mnemba dive sites open seascape, it was like being in just under 30 minutes— in the aquarium rather than look- quicker even than from ing in to it. We drifted on the gentle Matemwe, which overlooks current from one outcrop of coral the atoll. to another, marvelling at the size the dive center is situated of the schools of fusiliers and the next to the excellent Bikini number of green turtles. In total, Beach Bar and very rea- twelve individuals were observed, sonable Sunset Bungalows including three resting on one out- (50 USD for a spacious crop, with remoras being cleaned en-suite double with a tra- by accompanying wrasse attached ditional Zanzibari bed that has its own plunge pool, beach access, and chef. to their carapaces. could sleep four). The BCDs Fully refreshed and as relaxed as a rasta As we eventually moved off the site, the dive weren’t as new as those at in a ganja pile, it was time to blow bubbles master led us to a vast sandy patch. Not the ideal One Ocean, as they were at Mnemba again. Small Wall was home to spot for a safety stop you think, until hundreds of coming up for replacement,

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Yellow Margin Moray eel in lattice coral; Coral crab; Durban dancing shrimp; Diver on one of Pemba’s signature walls

cent of a fantasy world. ited islands and the hunga was the home to even bigger reefs, before touch- schools of snapper, and the impressive ing down in Chake crocodile flathead that can be found in Chake—Pemba’s big- significant numbers resting on the sandy gest town, half-way bottom in gullies and between bommies. up the west coast Rare finds included sea- at the end of a long horses, a Mauritius scor- mangrove-lined creek. pionfish, and a Weedy The airport was a small ramshackle affair, and scorpionfish. Visibility despite a plethora of attractions includ- was between 15 and ing atmospheric ruins, primeval for- 25 metres, and the est, unique bird species, deserted water was still a balmy beaches, and some of the best 29C. diving in the Indian Ocean, post-diving, one of the Pemba probably hosts less bars would generally have than 100 tourists at any given something going on, and they time. could all be reached by walking Swahili Divers and the but safety was far from overlooked here; each down the beach; the only hazard at Kervan Saray eco-resort on BCD came with a surface marker bouy in the night being either nausea or hysteria brought the northwest coast are run pocket and a briefing on how and when to on by the insincere declarations of local play- by Farhat Jah, a seemingly eccentric mixture deploy it. boys to female tourists. With reduced travelling of Turkish and Indian heritage with a resolutely Local sites included Kichafi and Haji reefs time and morning and afternoon dives with a British upbringing, and his Dutch wife, Cisca. and their extensive lattice coral formations, long shore-break in between, Kendwa is also Known by locals as Mr. Raf—and just Raf to peacock mantis shrimp, paperfish and beard- more suitable for mixed parties made up of anyone else—there is something of a young ed scorpionfish, Nankivell with its giant plate divers and non-divers, children and adults. Basil Fawlty in him that, whilst a little surprising corals in fascinating formations, rays, napoleon initially, is ultimately endearing. wrasse, groupers, and the stunning Hunga Pemba Island the accommodation was built in 2008 from Reef with its interconnected bommies and a The 35-minute half-empty flight yielded some local materials, and quarry where the bricks huge variety of hard and soft corals, reminis- more picture-postcard aerial shots of uninhab- were cut is, well, a stone’s throw away. Any Leaf fish (above); Royal Angelfish (inset) 38 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Zanzibar als twenty metres down were clearly visible. Backwards roll, hot tub, OK, going down. Equalize, all together? look around. W-O-W. With a capital W. On one side was a wall, like the top of a submerged mountain, covered in hard and soft corals of all descriptions, positively teeming with fish. On the other, the bluest blue, near perfect viz, dropping down, and down, and down. Lucky there’s no point talking under- water, because I was speechless. There was not one moment when there was not something to watch. the surface interval snack of still-

imported goods come by dhow whose carbon footprint is limited to the fire that the crew use to warm their food at night when at sea. It is the best priced on the island with dorm beds and doubles, and good value packages. Food is wholesome and filling, and is locally-sourced and cooked with love by Chef Mzee Ali on charcoal (chocolate biscuit cake a speciality), unlike the LEFT TO RIGHT: other two resorts that ship most supplies in, and is Chake Chake the most affordable Pemba diving option. mosque; Lush Raf pioneered much of the diving from coral bom- Pemba, and has discovered many of the sites mie at Egger’s Ascent; Walls himself, hence the odd names. You’ll find no are every- Aquarium here. Deep Freeze, Slobodan’s Bunker where; Linda’s warm crepes was taken on a (after the ex-Serbian warmonger), Le Reef flatworm; deserted island of fossilized coral Caché (hidden reef in French) and Emilio’s Back Mauritius and white sand before heading Passage to name a few. With a wealth of knowl- scorpionfish off to Slobodan’s Bunker, best edge of the reefs and conditions, years of expe- described by looking down on rience, and a passion for underwater photogra- your hand with digits splayed, phy and videography, and you can pick up a each gap a ravine in the reef full host of tips from Raf, provided you can keep up. of marine life. the RIB zipped across the top of the flat sea, the following day, at Le Trek, taking us to Deep Freeze. The ride had been we watched four Napoleon soothing, re-enforcing the remoteness of this Wrasse pass below us and a small island 50 kilometres off the coast of one of school of Barracuda cruise by as the poorest countries in the world. We passed we kept the wall left shoulder. local in sailing dhows or dugouts, fishing teams Then one of the five other clients of up to ten men swam nets into a circle, slap- started babbling and bubbling ping the water as they went to scare fish into loudly, pointing back to the right. And along Maybe it’s a mix of the remoteness of the the net. A lone spearfisherman here and there in came a six-metre wingspan Manta, accompa- island, the remoteness of Raf’s sites, and a Jacques Cousteau mask and an elbow-grease nied by the largest and ugliest old cobia I have touch of melancholy from sitting at a key- powered spear hunted for dinner. Now it was ever laid my eyes upon. She glided by on the board, but the diving here felt like real adven- time to see if it Pemba lived up to its growing outside to the edge of visibility, then turned, ture, as if all I needed was a red woolly hat reputation. Had I saved the best for last? slowly soaring back, under me and up over the and I was the re-incarnation of Commandant Looking down as we kitted up, the table cor- group. Cousteau.

39 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Zanzibar travel CLOCKWISE: Sunset over Fundu Lagoon; Infinity pool at Fundu Lagoon; Lionfish; Diver with Giant Manta; Cobia catching a ride on manta

the next morning a cocktail of all four gels and sham- poos revived me enough a Model to make it Toby in the down to the viewfinder. dive centre. More stun- The water ning coral. was like a Unguja had been great, but Pemba mirror, as we was awesome. It’s not a place for “big” sped across encounters everydive, but the variety the barracudas and guests. Forty-five minutes later, the driver to Misali Island and its surrounding reefs and volume of small to medium-sized assorted morays at dropped us at Pemba’s main port of for my two last dives on Funga Pacha species is outstanding, with coral crabs, Njao Gap; the mul- Mkoani where a speedboat was waiting and Coral Mountain. Six of us baled over magnificent partner shrimps, nudi- titude of marine life to whisk us to the lodge, a ten-minute the side and dropped down to 18 metres branchs, anthias, morays galore. I won- at Swiss Reef; and ride away. (the four other guests were only Open dered how I would re-adjust to diving the ghost pipefish the long wooden jetty was impressive, Water certified). More clear blue water, back home? ■ of Victoria’s Secret as was the discreet but warm welcome. more prolific almost to myself by The rooms are large safari tents inside a fish life, and Middle-class lodging day. And when they turned their torches wooden cabin, with a magnificent en- on the last The next port of call was Manta Reef off momentarily on Shimba Wall at night suite shower room, complete with Fundu dive, the mag- Lodge on the northeast tip of the island. and just followed my beam, the reef real- Lagoon’s own range of four shower gels nificent mar- Built on a hill just up from the beach, ly was mine. and shampoos (one of each for the bled cleaner Manta Reef Lodge’s well-appointed Dives were broken up by gourmet pic- morning and the evening, obviously), shrimp, and wooden chalets have superb views of nics on tidal sand islands in cyan waters and a secluded bit of beach for each of a last sighting the lagoon, and are good value for under cloudless skies. It was blissful; more the 16 rooms, the more expensive suites of a crocodile money, if you can afford 130 USD per dream diving. Then it was time to move having their own pool, too. flathead with person full board (excluding dives), given on for the last stop of the trip at luxurious the sunset views over the infinity pool a lionfish and the weekly shipping in of supplies from Fundu Lagoon down south. and across the bay were breath- Kenya, the excellent food, and the qual- taking, and the sun setting directly ity of the environment. Fundu Lagoon luxury behind the jetty bar and into the over the next two days, accompa- I couldn’t hope to top the past week’s ocean surreal. It being a Saturday, nied by Van and dive master, Ali, I had diving, but the place itself looked impres- dinner was being served on the the depths and the huge schools of big- sive on the web, and the room rates beach, an eat-till-you-burst gour- eye trevally and skunk anemonefish of certainly were at 600 USD a night per met braai of slipper lobster, tiger Fundo Gap South Wall; the unidentified standard double, all inclusive (exclud- prawns, and calamari washed but beautiful cleaner shrimps and metal- ing champagne). After a 70-dollar taxi down with excellent French wines lic looking bubble algae of Manta Point ride back to the airport, I met the Fundu and a few forgotten cocktails for (but no luck with the legendary mantas); transfer minibus and three well-heeled desert.

40 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Tantalizing Tofo Diving with Mantas Rays & Whalesharks in Mozambique

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THIS PAGE: Encounters with giant mantas at Tofo, Mozambique

“Three, two, one go!” unique small-eyed stingray, the largest Rolling backwards off the pontoon of of all stingrays and only ever seen alive the RIB, I delighted in the slow-motion here, 5000 kilometres from the edge of freefall from a negative entry, going its previously considered range, flapped straight down with Carlos, our Dive its two-metre wide wings and slid past Master. “At last,” I thought, “this is the nonchalantly. It was undoubtedly the life.” Yet, I had little time to contemplate best first dive of a trip ever, and there Four hundred and fifty kilometres north of the hue of the blue and the visibility, were some big smiles on the surface, Maputo, Mozambique’s capital, and half as the instant I looked down I saw a dive leader Carlos beaming even more giant manta moving slowly over the than normal. an hour from the historic Portuguese trad- cleaning station 20 metres below. It slid On the boat after the first dive, the ing town of Inhambane and its airport, Tofo graciously and effortlessly through the crew changed our cylinders and we is a laid-back village popular for its endless water, butterflyfish, goldies, and wrasses moved close to the coast and started pristine beaches and, of course, scuba div- nibbling it clean of the parasites it had cruising slowly, looking for the biggest picked up on its oceanic wanderings. fish in the ocean, the beautiful and ing. The warm waters of the Indian Ocean We unobtrusively dropped behind a docile whale shark. Within an hour provide sustenance for an abundance of wall next to the cleaning station and skipper Ernesto’s eagle eye picked marine life here, but the mantas and the watched as a second and then a third out the outline of one of these giant whale sharks are the stars of the show. manta glided in, whilst a large green planktivores. Donning fins and masks turtle settled into a hollow. What a start! we slid over the side and snorkelled As we drifted gently along the dive alongside a six-metre specimen, the Text and photos site, the oddly-named Hogwarts, 100 sun’s rays highlighting the white spotted by Christopher Bartlett kilos of potato grouper gave us the eye, patterns that cover its body from the kingfish cruised past, and a school of tip of its tail to its super-wide terminal barracuda zipped along. My grin was so mouth. PREVIOUS PAGE: wide I nearly lost my regulator when a Attracted by the plankton blooms Sunrise at Tofo 42 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tofo

Fish catch a free ride in the mouth of a giant whale shark; Respect the whale shark’s space and length- en your experience; Six-metre whale shark; Schooling Bannerfish on Giant’s Castle

scientist and Whale Shark specialist Dr Simon Pierce, Tofo has the world’s largest population of the species, present year round, making it an ideal place for a sighting or two. Non-divers can also enjoy an amazing encounter with this behemoth on a two- hour ocean safari run by Tofo Scuba. I swam with them on four occasions in two weeks. Diving There are three dive centres in Tofo, with similar prices, but Tofo Scuba (www.tofoscuba.co.za) has an attractive, purpose-built dive centre on the beach, a training pool, an on-site restaurant, and very professional and friendly staff. They are an eclectic mix of nationalities who make you feel at that occur in the vicinity, Junior opened wide to filter home straight away, and with smiles everywhere it is out the nutrients with the spongy tissue near its gill impossible to not have a good time. The rates are the arches. As we did our best to keep up, he progressed best in town, too: On a ten-dive package with your effortlessly seemingly not moving his tail at all, staying own equipment, a dive comes to a very reasonable just below the surface for ten minutes, before he 22 pounds. Some of the further reefs are subject to a disappeared from view. small surcharge, but are well worth it. And Junior is not alone; according to research to the north, Amazon with its strong currents has

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Anemone crab; Potato Bass; Snappers and diver on Manta Reef; Honeycomb moray eel; Frogfish and its aura; Eye-stripe surgeonfish

a good mix of macrolife, lionfish, eels. Often the second dive of the honeycomb morays, and groupers, day, it has a relatively short bottom and never has it such a pleasure to time despite a 90-minute surface be informed that it is time to go to interval, but it’s an action packed The Office. David Brent was happily half-an-hour. As the bottom slopes absent but his chair is often filled downwards peppered with green by a leopard shark, some whitetips, coral trees, a big school of pelagic and the wierdly beautiful bowmouth big-eye kingfish cruised into view guitarfish. Colosseum has only ever circling us for a minute, and as we been dived a handful of times but rose to our safety stop a school of should be renamed The Hospital for devil rays ambled past. Giants also its schools of eye-stripe surgeonfish. seems to be a favourite haunt of Straight out of the bay lies Giant’s the small-eye stingray, and I was Castle. Dropping next to a Manta fortunate enough to see it there on cleaning station, we drifted along two occasions. the battlements as spectre-like to the south though, next to the silhouettes appeared from the impressive Hogwarts, lies the jewel blue, before dropping down to in Tofo’s crown. The aptly-named find the crawling sea moth or short Manta Reef is as vibrant a piece of dragonfish, morays, and ribbon underwater eye candy that I would Whip coral goby 44 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tofo

in the stunning colours man’s head, but, standing proudly of the schooling fish, on one-third of its three metres at my eye is caught by a the back of a cave like a dragon coral whip goby, and in its lair, was a beast with a head then I spy African and the size of a horse. Unsurprisingly, I Potato Grouper under could not convince my buddy to different overhangs. go in with a torch to help me focus back over the edge my camera and give a sense of of the wide bowl, scale, but the image of this goliath countless mantas of morays will stay with me until I (the resident and return, as return I will. Manta Reef is world-leading manta definitely up there with the best. researcher Dr Andrea Marshall, identified 22 Accommodation different individuals & transportation there the previous Tofo has a range of day), both giant and accommodation options from “normal”, glided camping to lodges, but right gracefully over the next to the dive centre, the numerous cleaning independently owned and run stations, as a myriad of Aquaticos Beachside Casitas happily dive over and over. From goldies, damsels, and butterflyfish provide conveniently located, the surface, swathes of yellow and picked them clean. They danced good value for the money self- striped snapper, red soldierfish, and over us, around us, and even catering, with friendly staff who blue red-fang triggerfish covering between us, as if courting each take care of dishwashing and free the pinnacles can be seen. other. I was certainly smitten. laundry to boot. Dropping into an ampitheatre And that was before meeting the A short walk along the beach that starts at 18 metres and monster. or sand roads to the market and bottoms out at 28, it is impossible to I have seen many a fair-sized several restaurants and bars, and CLOCKWISE FROM TOP CENTER: View of Tofo know where to look. Whilst taking giant moray, as thick as a large an even shorter walk to Tofo Online Scuba dive centre; Starfish posing; Market Leopard blenny at Amazon (top); Ribbon eel (bottom) scene; Sea cucumber feeding at The Office 45 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Tofo

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Manta gets close; Stunning spiky starfish; Soldierfish on Manta Reef; Another stunning starfish; Shortfin dragonfish rests on the seabed

for email junkies, or to Dino’s Bar for pizza between Inhambane or prawns—everything is close by. Meals and Johannesburg on at Tofo Scuba, Dino’s or Fatima’s go for Mondays, Wednesdays, around four pounds; a pizza will set you Fridays and Sundays, or back a fiver. it’s an eight-hour ride the market has fresh fruit and veggies, on a shuttle bus from cashews, fish and basic groceries—and, departing from outside hidden in the centre behind the colourful Fatima’s in Maputo at 5 batiks, some local lunch eateries serve a.m everyday. The cost rice with fish, chicken, or beef cooked is 11 euros, and there on coals for a pound. If your Portugese is more information at or Bitongo isn’t up to much, pointing at a www.mozambiqueback- pot and saying “que es, por favor?” Will packers.com. The LAM get you a look inside. In the evening, ask ticket office is difficult to for Mr Bamboo’s for grilled chicken or fish deal with, and it’s best with a mountain of rice and fresh tomato to go through an agent salsa. Wash it down with a 500ml Manica, like Tofo Scuba Safaris a Dois M, or Mozambique’s stout, (www.tofo-scubasafaris. Laurentina Preta, and you’ll get change com). Ask for Lucie, from three pounds. and she’ll be delighted It’s perfectly safe to walk around day to interrupt her endless or night, and the curiously squeeky sand coffee consumption to is a delight to stroll along. Just remember answer your queries. A Maputo then London-bound, taking to pack the sunscreen, as even in early Joburg-Inhambane return is around 300 in the palm trees, acacias, and the May, the air temperature is in the low 30s, to 350 pounds. Both Lucy and Sharon at villages with cassava crops and roadside and the sea at 25-27°C, although it can Acquaticos ([email protected]) vendors, I wonder when I’ll be back. Tofo drop to the low 20s in July. can organise airport transfers. and its megafauna have enchanted me. LAM-Mozambique Airlines flies As I write this in the bus heading south, ■

46 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Lake Nyasa TANZANIA RIGHT: Location of Mozambique on global map FAR RIGHT: Location of Tofo on map of Mozambique Pemba

ZAMBIA Lichinga MALAWI fact file Cidade Mozambique de Nacala

Nampula

Tete Zambea sources: US cia world fact book, Quelimane SCUBADOC.COM

History In 1975, Mozambique estab- (RENAMO) with a UN-negotiated peace the country’s population remains Chimoio lished its independence after nearly 500 agreement. After 18 years in office, below the poverty line and the years as a Portuguese colony. However, Joaquim Chissano stepped down in government remains dependent ZIMBABWE Monte Beira Binga the country’s development was hindered December 2004, leading Mozambique upon foreign assistance for much of by large-scale emigration, economic into a delicate transition. The elected its annual budget. Subsistence agricul- dependence on South Africa, a severe successor, Armando Emilio Guebuza, ture employs the majority of the work drought drought, and a prolonged civil war pledged to continue the sound eco- force. However, through forgiveness and in the Vila Eduardo until the mid 1990’s. In 1989, the ruling nomic policies that have nurtured foreign rescheduling under the IMF’s Heavily backcountry. Other issues include Mondiane Front for the Liberation of Mozambique investment. Largely due to post-conflict Indebted Poor Countries (HIPC) and desertification; pollution of surface Mozambique Channel (FRELIMO) party formally abandoned reconstruction, Mozambique has seen Enhanced HIPC initiatives, Mozambique’s and coastal waters; elephant poach- Inhambane Tofo Marxism. The following year, a new con- very strong economic growth since the once substantial foreign debt has been ing for ivory. Mozambique is party stitution authorized a free market econ- end of the civil war. Government: repub- lowered, and is now at a managea- to: Biodiversity, Climate Change, omy and multiparty elections. In 1992, lic. Capital: Maputo. Legal system: based ble level. July 2007 saw the Millennium Climate Change-Kyoto Protocol, fighting ended between FRELIMO and on Portuguese civil law system and cus- Challenge Corporation (MCC) sign a Desertification, Endangered Species,

SOUTH AFRICA MAPUTO I N D I A N rebel Mozambique National Resistance tomary law. five-year Compact with Mozambique, Hazardous Wastes, Law of the Sea, OCEAN which went into force in September 2008 Ozone Layer Protection, Ship Pollution, SWAZ. Geography Mozambique is located and focuses on improving infrastructure, Wetlands in Southeastern Africa. It borders the sanitation, agriculture, and the business Mozambique Channel, between South regulation environment in the northern Currency Meticais (MZM) Africa and Tanzania. Terrain is mostly provinces. Natural resources: coal, tita- Exchange rates: 1EUR=37.41MZM; Elomwe 7.6%, Cisena 6.8%, Echuwabo 5.8%, coastal lowlands, uplands in central nium, natural gas, hydropower, tantalum, 1USD=25.55MZM; 1GBP=43.70MZM; other Mozambican languages 32%, other Mozambique, high plateaus in the graphite. Agriculture: cotton, cashew 1AUD=21.78MZM; 1SGD=18.27MZM foreign languages 0.3%, unspecified 1.3% northwest and mountains in the west. nuts, sugarcane, tea, cassava (tapioca), (1997 census) Coastline: 2,470 km. Lowest point: Indian corn, coconuts, sisal, citrus and tropical Population 21,669,278. In poverty: 70% Ocean 0m. Highest point: Monte Binga fruits, potatoes, sunflowers; beef, poultry. (2001 est.). Living with AIDS: 1.5 million Health There is a very high degree of risk 2,436m. Note: the Zambezi River flows Industry: food, beverages, chemicals (fer- (2007 est.) Ethnic groups: African 99.66% for food or waterborne diseases such as through the most fertile north-central part tilizer, soap, paints), aluminum, petroleum (Makhuwa, Tsonga, Lomwe, Sena, and bacterial and protozoal diarrhea, hepatitis of the country. products, textiles, cement, glass, asbes- others), Europeans 0.06%, Euro-Africans A, and typhoid fever; the vectorborne tos, tobacco 0.2%, Indians 0.08%. Religion: Catholic diseases malaria and plague; the water Economy Mozambique was one of 23.8%, Muslim 17.8%, Zionist Christian contact disease schistosomiasis; and the the world’s poorest countries at its inde- Climate tropical to subtropical. Natural 17.5%, other religions 17.8%, no religion animal contact disease rabies (2009) pendence in 1975. Exacerbating the hazards: severe droughts; devastating 23.1% (1997 census). Internet users: situation were socialist mismanagement cyclones and floods in the central and 200,000 (2007) Recompression Chamber and a brutal civil war from 1977-92. In southern provinces St. Augustine’s Hospital 1987, the government initiated a series Time CAT (UTC+2) Durban, South Afrca of macroeconomic reforms made to Environmental issues adverse envi- www.sahmc.co.za stabilize the economy. These led to vast ronmental consequences have resulted Language Emakhuwa 26.1%, improvements in the country’s growth from increased migration of the coun- Xichangana 11.3%, Portuguese 8.8% Links rate. Despite these gains, the majority of try’s population to urban and coastal (official language spoken by 27% of Mozambique Tourism areas spurred by civil war and recurrent population as a second language), www.mozambiquetourism.co.za ■ Diver with large lionfish 47 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED silver

www.seacam.com Water llillies display their blooms on the Okavango River

Text and photos by Toni White

Carrying all we would need for the next five days, our expedition team travelled some 65 kilometres through shallow, meandering chan- nels in small power boats. We eventually reached Jugu Juga, the small island which was to be our home for the next two days. As we unloaded our equipment and started to pitch camp, a bull elephant with tell tale ‘tears’ staining his face repeat- edly charged us, only veer- ing off when our guide beat two metal plates together. The strong smelling dis- charge, rich in testosterone, running down his cheeks announced that he was in ‘musth’. This was my introduc- tion to the “Really Wild”— the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The Okavango Delta in Northern Botswana is described as the “Jewel of the Kalahari Desert”. Covering some 15,000 square kilometers, it is a labyrinth of lagoons, lakes and hidden channels. It is the biggest inland fresh water delta in the world. It acts like a magnet to the wildlife of Botswana and beyond, with its crystalline waters attracting huge herds of elephant, hippo and Nile crocodiles. With 400 different species of bird, it has by far the greatest con- centration and diversity of wildlife in the whole of Africa. Diving the Delta Spurred by huge subtropical storms in central Angola, some 12 billion Botswana’s Okavango River cubic metres of water travel down

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The expedition team in action; Hippo yawns; Stealthy croc in the reeds; Team member Pete works his underwater rig

banks were alive with birds from the average game reserve. of every description, and we We were just carrying our sleeping soon found ourselves gazing bags up from the boats when the bull at the rafts of reeds that are elephant repeatedly charged us. It was the life blood of the delta. The more than a little disconcerting, espe- further we travelled, the nar- cially when we wondered whether we rower and shallower the delta were pitching camp in his territory. Mark channels became. managed to discourage him, and he After 30 to 40 kilometres, we pulled back to a safer distance, but con- started to see our first signs tinued to show his annoyance with us by of big game. Elephants and stamping and trumpeting for the rest of crocodiles became more fre- the night. quent sightings, and in the dis- We investigated our chosen patch tance, we saw herds of impa- further and found a small lagoon at the la and buffalo. After a couple rear of the camp with a resident hippo of heart-stopping moments in it. The next morning we found that five the Cubango River, through Namibia life and assess the possibilities of diving photographers, in Maun, the gateway to when the boats became tangled up rather large crocodiles had spent the as the Kuvango River, and finally enter it. However, I really didn’t know what we the Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana. in the reeds in the shallow waters, we night on the sand of the river, no more Botswana as the Okavango River. The were letting ourselves in for. arrived at our first camp on Jugu Juga than 20 feet from our tents. It was defi- water diverts through a maze of lagoons, I had done many big animal expedi- The expedition Island. nitely getting wilder! To add to all of this, channels and islands before drain- tions before with world renowned expert As we loaded up our two flat-bottomed It was late afternoon by the time we during that first night we had one of the ing away in the southern wastes of the Mark Addison of Blue Wilderness Diving boats with everything from tents to com- started preparing the camp while our most dramatic storms that I have ever Kalahari Desert. (www.bluewilderness.co.za), mainly in pressors, we all wondered what the next cook started to dig holes to prepare our seen. The cracks of thunder would have I had been talking for some years South Africa. And so it was that in the five days would bring. We were soon evening meal. This was the point when shattered glass if there been any around about going on an expedition to the dry season of October 2007, Mark and speeding along the Boro River, leaving we all decided that the Okavango was and the night sky was illuminated by Okavango Delta to photograph the wild- I gathered with six intrepid underwater the low rise buildings of Maun. The river very definitely a different kind of wild huge displays of lightning.

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The Okavango River barbell (some as long as a metre) were things around The next morning, we were quickly on the swimming past us in such numbers that in disgust river with our dive gear and cameras in they were crashing into our submerged because we tow. Travelling deeper into the delta, we legs. Before long we were all jumping up hadn’t moved came across a huge disturbance in the and down in the water, and the air was on, the night river. It soon became obvious that we had blue with expletives! It didn’t take long passed rela- come across a hitherto unknown migra- for us to decide that this was just a bit too tively quietly. tion of barbell. The banks were covered in hairy, and we exited the water rather faster every bird imaginable; fish eagles, storks, than we had entered. Hippo pelicans and the beautiful malachite We thought that that was quite enough haven Kingfisher. Crocodiles were lined up in the excitement for one day but on the way The dawn sand. Every size from half a metre to a cou- back to camp, we were confronted by a brought a new challenge; we knew that We had a bit of a hiatus while deciding ple of four metre monsters were waiting for herd of elephants crossing the channel in there was a lagoon nearby with a resident which of us would volunteer their camera their turn to feed on the barbell. front of us. Two huge females were guard- herd of hippos. On arrival, we saw five first (due to the significant risk that it might Andy donned his wetsuit, fins and mask ing the progress of the young elephants. heads in the water all staring at our boat. not come back!!!) Once decided, the and immediately jumped over the side, They decided that they would walk up Apparently, boats take first place on the ROV’s set off but instead of the attack we camera in hand, to try and get a half and the channel towards us, sparring as they hippo hate list, closely followed by humans! expected, the male hippo moved behind half picture of a small croc sitting on the came. Luckily for us they must have seen We had already decided that going the females, and the whole herd started to bank. The croc was up and gone before the agitation on our boats as they got into the water with the single biggest killer back off into shallower water, completely you could say snap! So instead he turned nearer and decided that we had taken of humans on this continent was not an intimidated by the small black box travel- his attention to the more static lilies that their severe warning. option. We had built a couple of small ling towards them. After three frustrating Proud eagle perches on a limb; fam- were growing profusely from the river beds. Apart from the troop of baboons that ROV’s with Mark that we planned to hours trying to get nearer, we decided ily of elephants commune by the Following Andy’s lead we all jumped into walked through the camp at 1am, the attach our cameras to and drive them into that we had enough information to plan a waters; Portrait of a larg bull elephant the water, ignoring the fact that bigger pride of lions calling to each other all the herd to try to capture the images we different approach for our next trip in July crocs were within a few metres of us. The night and our friend the elephant throwing wanted. Let’s just say we got close. 2008.

51 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Large croc waits in the grass; Stork in flight; Trees travel dot the Delta landscape Botswana large monitor ing, there was a huge rush for the one lizard has been portable toilet! debated many Joking apart, we all agreed that this times since. had been an exceptional expedition for Whatever it all of us. Experiencing these magnificent was, it was cer- animals up close and wild, had been tainly a warn- the experience of a lifetime for all of us. ing. From a practical point of view, it has also And as for given us confidence to return armed with our last night... what we learned. We are sure that given what a night it time, we will capture the underwater was! Just after images that we now know are possible. midnight Mark We plan to return to the Delta twice a and Gail woke year over the next three years, once up to find that during the dry and once during the wet they had an season. We know that we will capture elephant’s trunk the stunning images that we have been in their tent with privileged to see. ■ them. They had of getting for our dive. Kitting up, we soon became pitched their Tony White is a professional underwa- nearer to a aware that the waters here are never still, tent under a Marula tree —the fruit is an ter photographer. Now based in South bigger herd and this would be a drift dive. elephant’s favourite food. Africa, he runs underwater photographic of hippo. We entering the water, we dropped two I opened my tent flap during the night tours to some of the most exciting under- wanted some metres to the bottom. The visibility was to find three hippos happily munching water events and places on our planet. deeper water, restricted to about four metres because away at the grass just outside. Nobody More information can be obtained from so we could of the high concentrations of peat in the left their tents that night, and in the morn- his website www.seaofdreams.co.uk attempt a ground but this was scuba dive good enough for pho- to assess the tography. The sand possibilities of on the bottom was future dives white—we were defi- with crocs. nitely in the Kalahari by lunch- Desert. time we had We knew from this We spent the rest of the afternoon established first dive that pho- gently travelling the river banks enjoying camp on Nxaraga Island and were look- tography would be the profusion of wildlife. We were on our ing out of our tent at the lagoon with its possible, but we got way back to base camp when we saw a eight resident hippos. We spent the after- another reminder group of hippos on the bank. It was the noon fruitlessly trying to photograph this that this was truly a group that we had been trying to pho- herd and learned valuable lessons for our wild, wild place and tograph that morning. In an instant, we next visit. one to be respected. could see a look in their eyes that said, the evening and night brought nothing As the dive ended, “So, it was you harassing us in the lagoon more exciting than a large spider run- we stood up in shal- this morning”. At that point, they all ning around the inside of my tent. Little low water and within charged down the bank towards us. Our did I realize that all the trouble was being seconds, Pete had driver slammed the engines forward and stored up for our last night. let out an ear splitting sped past them as they all jumped into scream as something the channel obviously intent on upsetting Diving the river large swam between our evening. Bright and early we were back on the his legs knocking him the next day we broke camp to travel water heading for deeper channels with off his feet. Whether back nearer to Maun with the intention the clear water that we had identified it was a croc or a

52 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED RIGHT: Location of Botswana on global map BELOW: Location of Okavango Delta on map of Botswana FAR RIGHT: View from space of fact file Okavango Delta. NASA Botswana ZAM. Lake ANG. Kariba Okavango Kasane Popavalle (Popa Falls) Linyanti Tsodilo TA EL D ZIMBABWE Hills O sources: US cia world fact book G N Makgadikgadi A V (salt pans) A K

O Maun History Botswana, formerly the British Geography protectorate of Bechuanaland, adopted Botswana is located Boteti its new name when it attained independ- in Southern Africa, NAM. Ghanzi Francistown Shashe ence in 1966. Forty years of uninterrupted north of South Africa. Selebi-Phikwe civilian leadership, progressive social poli- Note: No coastline, Serowe cies, and significant capital investment landlocked; popula- Mamuno have boosted the country’s economy tion is concentrated Mahalapye making it one of the most dynamic in in the east. Terrain KALAHARI Limpopo Environmental issues over- Africa. Although tourism is a growing sec- is predominantly grazing; desertification; limited fresh tor due to the country’s conservation flat to gently rolling DESERT water resources. Botswana is party to: practices and extensive nature preserves, plateaus with the Molepolole Biodiversity, Climate Change, Climate mineral extraction, mainly diamond min- Kalahari Desert in the GABORONE Change-Kyoto Protocol, Desertification, ing, leads economic activity. The country southwest. Lowest Kanye Endangered Species, Hazardous Wastes, has one of the world’s highest known point: junction of the Law of the Sea, Ozone Layer Protection, rates of HIV/AIDS infection, however, it Limpopo and Shashe Tshabong Wetlands. also has one of Africa’s most progressive Rivers 513 m. Highest and comprehensive programs for deal- point: Tsodilo Hills SOUTH AFRICA Currency botswana Pulas (BWP) ing with the disease. Government: parlia- 1,489 m. Exchange rates: 1EUR= 9.95BWP; mentary republic. Capital: Gaborone 1USD= 7.00BWP; 1GBP= 11.58BWP; nasa Economy Since unemployment and poverty. Botswana’s 1AUD= 5.82BWP; 1SGD= 4.84BWP independence in 1966, Botswana has considerable economic gains are also had one of the world’s highest economic threatened by high HIV/AIDS infection Population 1,990,876. In poverty: bacterial diarrhea, hepatitis A, and typhoid growth rates, though, in 2007-08, growth rates, the second highest in the world. 30.3% (2003) Living with AIDS: 300,000 fever; and the vectorborne disease malaria fell below 5%. Botswana has transformed Long-term prospects are dimmed by an (2007 est.) Ethnic groups: Tswana (or (2009) itself, through fiscal discipline and sound expected leveling off in diamond mining Setswana) 79%, Kalanga 11%, Basarwa management, from one of the poorest production. Natural resources: diamonds, 3%, other, including Kgalagadi and white Recompression Chamber countries on Earth to a middle-income copper, nickel, salt, soda ash, potash, groups 7%. Religion: Christian 71.6%, PRETORIA, South Africa country with a per capita GDP in 2008 of coal, iron ore, silver. Agriculture: livestock, Badimo 6%, other religion 1.4%, no reli- Eugene Marais Hyperbaric Oxygen US$13,300. Indeed, Botswana is ranked as sorghum, maize, millet, beans, sunflowers, gion 20.6% (2001 census). Internet users: Therapy Centre the best credit risk in Africa by two major groundnuts. Industry: diamonds, copper, 80,000 (2007) 24hr phone: +27(0)12 334-2567 investment services. Much of the expan- nickel, salt, soda ash, potash; livestock sion is fueled by diamond mining, which processing; textiles Time CAT (UTC+2) DURBAN, South Africa currently makes up more than one-third St. Augustine’s Hospital of GDP and 70-80% of export earnings. Climate Botswana’s climate is semi- Language Setswana 78.2%, Kalanga Hyperbaric Medicine Centre Other key sectors include tourism, finan- arid with warm winters and hot summers. 7.9%, Sekgalagadi 2.8%, English 2.1% www.sahmc.co.za cial services, subsistence farming, and Natural hazards: periodic droughts; vis- (official), other language 8.6%, (2001 cattle raising. However, the government ibility can be obscured with seasonal census) Links faces challenges such as high rates of August winds that blow from the west, Botswana Tourism carrying sand and dust cross-country. Health There is a very high degree of www.botswanatourism.co.bw ■ Split view of lilly pad on risk for the food and waterborne diseases Okavango River in Botswana 53 X-RAY MAG : 31 : 2009 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED