NORTH Giraffe reticulated in Samburu. © SOPHIE ROCHERIEUX 184 North SOUDAN DU SUD ÉTHIOPIE TURKANA Sibiloi B9 National Park Moyale A1 Kalokol MANDERA Eliye MARSABIT North Horr Lodwar Lac Turkana C77 A2 Kalacha Maikona Loiyangalani C82 k r u C80 T WAJIR Marsabit o Marsabit OUGANDA i r e South Horr National Park K Turkwel Gorges South Turkana Log'Logo Nasalot N.R N.R Baragoi Wajir WEST POKOT Marich Pass Laisamis B9 C77 B4 A1 SAMBURU Merille Kapenguria Cherangany Hills Matthews TRANS Maralal Range NZOIA ELGEYO Mt. Elgon ISIOLO Mbale Kitale A2 National Park MARAKWET BARINGO B4 C78 Tororo BUNGOMA UASIN Lac GISHU Iten Shaba Boringo N.R C116 A104 Eldoret Kabarnet Bualo Springs B9 Busia Bungoma LAKIPIA Lekurruki N.R A1 Conservation Trust VIHIGA Lac Il Ngwesi Isiolo Kakamega Forest A104 C77 Group Ranch Borana Lewa Wildlife Bogoria Conservancy B1 National Reserve Ranch MERU GARISSA B4 Meru C81 Siaya Mbale NANDI Nyahururu Ngare Ndare Bisanadi Nanyuki Forest Meru N.P N.R 20km B5 A2 Mount Kenya THARAKA National Park A3 Kisumu B1 Nakuru NITHI TANA RIVER A1 Ol Kalou B6 EMBU 185 SOUDAN DU SUD ÉTHIOPIE TURKANA Sibiloi B9 National Park Moyale A1 Kalokol MANDERA Eliye MARSABIT North Horr Lodwar Lac Turkana C77 A2 Kalacha Maikona Loiyangalani C82 k r u C80 T WAJIR Marsabit o Marsabit OUGANDA i r e South Horr National Park K Turkwel Gorges South Turkana Log'Logo Nasalot N.R N.R Baragoi Wajir WEST POKOT Marich Pass Laisamis B9 C77 B4 A1 SAMBURU Merille Kapenguria Cherangany Hills Matthews TRANS Maralal Range NZOIA ELGEYO Mt. Elgon ISIOLO Mbale Kitale A2 National Park MARAKWET BARINGO B4 C78 Tororo BUNGOMA UASIN Lac GISHU Iten Shaba Boringo N.R C116 A104 Eldoret Kabarnet Bualo Springs B9 Busia Bungoma LAKIPIA Lekurruki N.R A1 Conservation Trust VIHIGA Lac Il Ngwesi Isiolo Kakamega Forest A104 C77 Group Ranch Borana Lewa Wildlife Bogoria Conservancy B1 National Reserve Ranch MERU GARISSA B4 Meru C81 Siaya Mbale NANDI Nyahururu Ngare Ndare Bisanadi Nanyuki Forest Meru N.P N.R 20km B5 A2 Mount Kenya THARAKA National Park A3 Kisumu B1 Nakuru NITHI TANA RIVER A1 Ol Kalou B6 EMBU North Northern Kenya is a vast body that differs greatly poverty is large, accompanied by the instability from the south. For many, it’s a black hole, or at best caused by the presence of Somali rebels in the a blur on the map… which still occupies two thirds of region. In Dadaab, this is one of the world’s the country! The sedentary, agricultural and densely largest refugee camps. It is here that droughts populated Kenyan civilization is actually concen- are raging vigorously. Unless you go with a trated in the south, when the north, as we discover military squadron, it’s an area that we’re formally it, is increasingly deserting, "Sahelian", influenced discouraging from boarding for a tourist purpose. by Islam and the couchitic civilizations; sporadically populated, weakly equipped with infrastructure… and dangerous! To give more details, there are ISIOLO two nords. Isiolo marks the border between verdant highlands and desert north. This is the last wwThe northwest, in a triangle between Lake place you can easily find gasoline, what you’re Turkana, Marsabit and Isiolo. It is a remote area, doing (small bustling market), banks and a post. but more easily accessible to travelers. If this When you arrive from Nanyuki, the contrast north is sparsely populated, semi-desert and is striking. In a few kilometers, the road goes through long dusty trails that make the journey down several hundred meters, the tempera- adventurous, it is entirely under control of the ture suddenly looks canicular, the vegetation central state, and has enough tourist attractions is stunted and dusty, the population itself so that we want to discover it. Just north of the is different. The Samburu, the Turkana, the central highlands, the Samburu country (easily Rendille or the Boran replaced the Kikuyu, and accessible) and its national park is one of the the city is mainly populated by Somalis. This highlights of a visit to Kenya. The savanna is more includes the presence of imposing mosques. beautiful than ever, the landscapes of acacias Isiolo is a true ethnic crossroads, crossing all and the hills of the high plateaus, wonderful, the the tribes of the North. It is also a mandatory whole fauna; It is simply a stunning beauty. Lake step for all tourists traveling to the parks of Turkana, the "Jade Sea", is also of a strange Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba. But the beauty, lost in the middle of the steppes, while city itself has little interest. the traditional Samburu or Turkana habitat has Beyond Isiolo, the asphalted road extends to intriguing and intriguing. Marsabit, then the Ethiopian border. wwThe immense northeast, from the coast The fact that it is too rare to be mentioned, it is to the Somali border, to the longitude of good to know that it is very close to Isiolo, on Marsabit, is an immense space of deserts the road to Samburu, that the first exclusively and semi-deserts, inhabited (low) by Muslim female community has been established. It does semi-nomadic tribes, which is undoubtedly a not accept any male presence. In this small fascinating space to discover. But its permanent village called Umoja, we have gathered for the state of insecurity may even discourage even best and for the worst of some fifteen women, the most reckless. Banditry prevails there, revolted against the living conditions of women the Kenyan army controls the main axes, and in the traditional villages and by the male diktat Indefect in Desert North ww A safari in the Samburu Park is one of the most beautiful landscapes in Kenya with the discovery of a richissious fauna, in qualitative infrastructures and far from the overload of southern parks. ww Only in Marsabit Park, you will evolve in an extraordinary oasis of greenery lost amidst a private desert of all life. Suddenly, like a mirage, will appear before you Lake Paradise… a place simply enchanting. ww The crossing of the Chalbi desert and its expanses to the infinite platitude is an unforgettable experience, but also a real adventure. ww Those seeking isolation will hike in the Cherangani Hills, in the heart of Pokot territory, the name of a tribe installed in wonderful mountain landscapes. Knife & fork - ISIOLO 187 which is sometimes too violent. In the line of this from the south), next to Gantaal Bus Office. refuge village, three other women’s communities Open Monday to Saturday from 8.30am to 4pm. were created in the region. Cash-point (ATM). Transport Sleeping How to get there and leave nwBOMEN HOTEL Bomen Hotel wwThis is happening: The best way to go to & +254 721 698 849 / +254 700 858 882 Isiolo and explore the region is the car. You can [email protected] of course find matches and buses that travel Turn right after Moty Pearl Hotel, which is from Meru, Nanyuki, and even Nairobi (one the corner. express a day, about 4: 30 a. m.), and you can Standard room with 2,500 Ksh for a person, push up to Marsabit, but it will be difficult for 3,500 per two (with the breakfast). La Deluxe, a you to continue your path to the northeast and little larger, is to 3,500 Ksh for one or two people. Lake Turkana… unless you have a lot of time If you have to spend a night in Isiolo, the Bomen and… a soul of adventurer. Hotel (which has long been the only modern wwFor the north and travelers without car… hotel in the city) remains the most pleasant. Since the road was redone, buses and matatus It has a total of forty rooms on three floors, have been driving up to Marsabit and stopping around a tower, with bathroom and net. Clean, at Archers Post. You will then need to find a airy and sunny (especially third rooms). Small private vehicle to enter one of the parks (Samburu restaurant inside and some terrace tables to or Shaba). Some are negotiating at Arch Post; drink tea. Without charm, but well kept, clean have no less than 4,000 Ksh (bargaining) to and safe. Guarded parking. Wifi. reach Samburu Campsite, for example. nwMOTI PEARL HOTEL NORTH wwAnother means of transport is trucks A2 traveling to Loiyangalani on the shores of Lake & +254 725 800 820 Turkana (via Maralal or Marsabit). You will www.moti.co.ke – [email protected] travel with the Samburu, the Rendille or the On the road to Marsabit. Opposite Barclay’s Gabbra who return to their territories, jused on Bank. a dumpster filled with bricks and non-perishable 2,750 Ksh for a single room and 4,000 Ksh for food destined for the shops of the northern a double (with the breakfast). villages. A challenging experience because of Completely renovated, this hotel has 40 rooms the overwhelming heat and the deplorable state arranged around a patio (overlooking a shopping of the roads, once you leave the main axis (A 2) gallery) and on the street. They have a bathroom, that leads to Marsabit. balcony, TV and wifi. You will not be particularly wwPlane. A brand new international airport was quiet, but the rooms are correct. inaugurated in June 2017. It should allow many travelers to travel to the region. The goal is also Knife & fork to remove the national parks from the south, to attract tourists to lower-frequented parks in the nwCHUCKIE’S CHIPS AND CAFÉ TOO north (Meru, Samburu and Shaba) but equally Timau worthy of interest.