Walking Tours the Left Bank Set

Walking Tours The Left Bank Set

Table of Contents Culture and History Stroll from Saint Germain to Notre Dame Latin Quarter Stroll Stroll from Saint Germain to the Louvre

Shopping Stroll Along rue du Cherche Midi Walk and Shop in Saint Germain Shop Rue St. Domonique and Grenelle

Foodie Gourmet Tour Quick Gourmet Pastry and Chocolate

1 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th)

 2 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

5. St. Severin Church 6. St. Julien le Pauvre 7. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 8. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 9. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

10. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 11. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 12. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 13. Eglise Notre Dame 14. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs

2  2 3 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

15. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 16. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

3  3 4 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours vards we now see on the right bank. depending on how long you linger. Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-des- Arts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near and worth remembering for dinner. They are fa- Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. No- mous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s tice the statue of Georges Danton, an early leading a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Con- figure in the French Revolution. tinue along St. André until you reach Blvd Saint- Michel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St. l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day Jacques. where no reservations are required for lunch, and a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it must. Head north towards the Seine crossing the is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'An- famous — duck in for a look. cienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along The church began construction in the 11th century, Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th cen- take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce . tury. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the This is a lovely little back way stroll. angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is often thought of as the oldest church in Paris, 2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St. Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have new chocolate store, actually it's more a choco- music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Sea- late experience. Not only do they sell chocolates, sons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recom- pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a mend. Look for the schedules posted around chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails town and near the church itself. They also have and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagi- St. Germain and other notable churches. nation of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been making chocolate since 1948. Across the street, if you are here at night, there is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mail- Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Pro- letz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St. cope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79) where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recom- complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in mend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our the back. The basement has a café and more tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a down on the left. This passageway will lead you couple of glasses here. to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some Also on rue Galande, there is a special little cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50 terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as & 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have this is actually what Paris looked like before the found some charming tea cups in there and other architect Haussmann tore down these small goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule- 2  5 4 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julien- (on the weekends this bridge turns into a roller- le-Pauvre since 1928. blading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10. Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before — Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is sim- book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20). ply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is par- a great view from the roof. ticularly charming. Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de the Seine side through the lovely gardens and Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here take a much needed rest in the back garden, you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame the most unusual bookshops in the world, called is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as 11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de la impressive as the façade with its famed flying but- Bûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of tresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre books written about it but our favorite is Time Was Dame is a serene and moving monument that is a Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs 1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the — has done readings here. They still have poetry 200,000 Jewish people and others who were de- and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm. ported from France during the German occupation Check the website for details. Take a long look of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration around this place and you’ll find many surprises. camps. George has let struggling writers stay here over the years and you’ll see evidence — note the small Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to beds placed here and there. The place is open until Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de 11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54 folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop 02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor beer and some French fries or choucroute (the fa- — “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be mous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauer- angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a kraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame. rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the famous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St. If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café -Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.) Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71) where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd your right, about half a block down the street past Henri IV and continue on into the Marais or go the park.

3  5 6 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back to your hotel or apartment for a much de- served rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point. 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 1. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 2. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard 3. St. Severin Church 4. St. Julien le Pauvre 5. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 6. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 7. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy 8. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 9. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 10. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 11. Eglise Notre Dame 12. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs 13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

4  7 Latin Quarter Stroll

8 Latin Quarter Stroll

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie, start 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le- Pauvre 3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin

4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé 5. La Sorbonne

6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.- Geneviève

9 Latin Quarter Stroll

8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève 9. Place Maubert 10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge 11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins

12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine 13. Rue Mouffetard 14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 49, rue Monge

15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis, Place du Puits de l'Ermite 16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d'histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire

10 Latin Quarter Stroll

17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.- Bernard 18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.- Bernard 19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-Pauvre 3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin 4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé 5. La Sorbonne 6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-Geneviève 8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.- Geneviève 9. Place Maubert 10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge 11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins 12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine 13. Rue Mouffetard 14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge 15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2, Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite 16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.- Bernard 18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard 19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

11 Latin Quarter Stroll

This tour can be done in two half-day right corner and enter 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le- sessions, or the hearty traveler can take an Pauvre on your left. It’s said that parts of entire day to visit the sights of the Latin the church date as far back as the 6th Quarter. century, but most of it is a mix of Roman and Gothic influences from the 11th and Welcome to the 5th Arrondissement, also 12th centuries. It became a Greek Orthodox known as the Latin Quarter because of the church in the late 1800s because there large number of international students who were so many other Catholic churches spoke Latin in the area starting as far back nearby, including the one you will be as the mid-12th century. visiting next.

Begin at 1. Shakespeare and Company, at Turn left out of the church and cross rue du 37, rue de la Bûcherie, just off the quai de Petit Pont ahead, and you’ll be looking at Montebello and rue St.-Jacques. The closest the side of 3. Eglise St.-Séverin. Note the metro stop is St.-Michel. Shakespeare and expressive gargoyles hanging off the side of Company is a unique bookstore and a the building, and then walk around to the favorite for any literary lover. It was front of the church and admire the flames founded by George Whitman, an American above, which lend credence to its resting in Paris after World War II and architectural style, Flamboyant Gothic. brushing up on his French at the Sorbonne. Compare the 16th-century stained glass in The books he accumulated while studying the back of the church with the newer 19th- warranted the opening of the store, where and 20th-century designs in the front. Exit many notable writers passed through to at the back left and turn right onto St.- read, write or take a bed during tough Jacques, right onto St.-Germain and left into times. The store still encourages new and the Square de Cluny. established scribes to share their work during regularly scheduled readings. Walk to the far left and admire the gardens and the medicinal plants scattered After perusing the many books, exit the throughout. Follow the signs around to the store and turn right, into the adjacent park right for the 4. Musée national du Moyen at Square René Viviani. Spin around for a Age, inside of which you’ll find medieval art, fabulous view of Notre Dame, and then find stained glass, gothic sculpture and the a leaning tree in the back right corner. museum’s most prized possession, a You’re now looking at what is believed to collection of 15th-century tapestries called be the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1602. "The Lady and the Unicorn.” Continue past the tree to the gate in the

12 Latin Quarter Stroll

Exiting the museum, step into the small reach the museum on the second floor, but garden across the street and you’ll be you will be rewarded with something other looking at one of the buildings of the 5. than your typical art and sculpture Sorbonne. It was founded in 1257, making collections. While most information is in it one of the first universities in the world, French, you can grab an English brochure to and now has 18 locations. Entrance to the read about the crimes and descriptions of school is only possible with a student or serial killers. You’ll also see an assortment staff ID, but anyone can apply for of murder weapons, such as a guillotine, enrollment. hammers, ice picks and pistols.

Turn left onto rue des Ecoles, and then right Outside on the corner, you’ll find the 9. onto rue St.-Jacques. Climb the hill and Place Maubert, and if you time your visit make a right onto rue Soufflot, and you’ll be for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday staring at the 6. Panthéon. Honestly, it’s no morning, you’ll be in for a gastronomical St. Peter’s, but you can tour the Panthéon treat, thanks to a farmer’s market selling to see where some of the French greats the best of the season. Grab some fresh were buried, like Victor Hugo, Marie Curie fruit, a strong, French cheese and some and Voltaire. Or go to the roof for expansive charcuterie for a spontaneous outdoor views of Paris. picnic. Fromagerie Laurent Dubois, at 47, boulevard St.-Germain, has some of the Exiting the building to the right, follow it best cheese in Paris. around to the back, and you’ll find the impressive 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, If it’s not a market day, there are also good the site of many pilgrimages to visit the specialty shops at the Place Maubert for patron saint of the church, who is honored sampling similar local fare. You can also for saving Paris from Attila the Hun. turn right on St.-Germain and right onto rue Completed in 1626, this Gothic church took Monge for 10. Eric Kayser. Purchase a over 125 years to create. baguette, pastry or any other bread product that catches your eye at this award-winning Turn right down the windy rue de la boulangerie. With cheese and bread, you’ll Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and cross over be all set for a picnic in the Jardin des rue des Ecoles, and you’ll see an Plantes, which you’ll find later in this tour. institutional-looking building on your left, which houses a police station as well as the Just across the street on the corner of rue 8. Musée de la prefecture de police. You Monge and rue des Bernardins is 11. Eglise need to walk through the police station to St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet. This church is

13 Latin Quarter Stroll

the headquarters of the less-than- the back. Pass the playground, and exit the traditional Society of St.-Pius, which in the gate to the left onto rue des Arènes. Turn 1970s did not agree with many changes in right on rue Linné, right on rue Lacépède church laws and was to be expelled from and left onto rue de Quatrefages. the location. It never left and still remains today. It continues to believe in delivering Halfway down the block, you’ll see a the mass in Latin with the altar and priest beautiful tiled archway for the 15. Grande facing away from the congregation. Mosquée de Paris. The mosque was completed in 1926 as a sign of appreciation Continue left up rue Monge, crossing rue to the Muslim community for helping the des Ecoles, and turn right on rue du French battle the Germans in World War I. Cardinal Lemoine. Go up the hill to No. 74, There is an area for worship and study, and where you’ll see a plaque announcing the visitors can tour part of the facility and residence of 12. Ernest Hemingway. This is enjoy the café’s mint tea and North African where Hemingway lived with his first wife food. and wrote A Moveable Feast. Retrace your steps back to rue Lacépède If your legs can take you no farther, end the and cross rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire and enter day’s tour ahead on 13. rue Mouffetard, a the gates to the 16. Jardin des Plantes and foodie-filled street. Beware of the many the Muséum national d'histoire naturelle. tourist spots, and head down the hill where Stay to the left and you’ll dead-end into the there are a few decent spots to eat. Cabinet d’Histoire, or continue to the right to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which For the diehards ready to see all of the 5th in will entertain kids and adults alike with its a day, retrace your steps back down to rue life-size animal displays. You’ll see whales, Monge and continue until you see the monkeys and birds all hanging from the simple archway for the 14. Arènes de ceiling, with elephants, dinosaurs and Lutèce. Step inside and you’ll find an old giraffes surrounding them. Want something Roman arena that once held up to 15,000 more lifelike? Step into the garden’s spectators. Built around the end of the first menagerie to interact with live animals, or century AD, it was rediscovered under simply wander the beautiful grounds and debris in 1869. While you will no longer be admire the flowers, trees and large able to catch any gladiators doing battle, collection of medicinal plants. you will find students playing sports or French men playing boules. Walk all the way Exit the opposite end of the gardens onto through to see the gardens and fountain in the Place Valhubert, crossing the few

14 Latin Quarter Stroll

streets directly in front of you until you reach the quai St.-Bernard. Turn left on the quai and take the lower path down to the water to 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air). Wander the series of serene walkways, and just before you reach the bridge, turn left to return to street level.

The large glass 18. Institut du Monde Arabe will be in front of you. Cross the street and enter the sun-sensitive building. You can learn more about Islamic history, archaeology and arts here. Enjoy the quality bookshop on the ground floor, or go straight to the roof for panoramic views of Paris. If you want to enjoy a meal with your view, make a reservation at the Lebanese restaurant Le Zyriab, also on the roof.

If you’d prefer some French food after your long tour of the 5th Arrondissement, make a reservation at the high-end, one-starred Michelin restaurant 19. La Tour d’Argent, just down the street at 15, quai de la Tournelle. It not only offers outstanding food, but its dining room has spectacular views of Notre Dame.

Alternately, a less expensive but very romantic place to dine is Le Coupe-Chou, at 9–11, rue de Lanneau, near the Sorbonne. There’s also the newer Restaurant Sola, at 12, rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, for sublime French-Japanese fusion. All restos require reservations.

15 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st)

 1 16 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore

4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Laduree

5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette 6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s former home

2  2 17 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

7. Pont des Arts 8. The Louvre

9. Place de la Concorde - Hotel de Crillon*

3  *Closed for renovations until 2015 3 18 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

back in the day and is still very popular with This tour takes between 1 and 3 hours tourists and Parisians alike. Continue on to- depending on how much time you spend in wards the Seine on rue de Seine stopping as the Louvre. (Can be done day or night, you like in the galleries. Take note of 6. 60 although some places are not open at night rue de Seine where Simone de Beau- of course.) voir lived. She was a brilliant French philoso- pher and feminist. Which is back down south on rue de Seine a few blocks. Begin at 1. Rue Bonaparte and Blvd St. Also notice the old photo shop near the end of rue Germain across from Église St. Germain (one of de Seine, Roger-Viollet on your left as you ap- the oldest churches in Paris and worth a look). Clos- proach the river, which has been selling photos of Paris and other places since the early 1900s. Cross est metro stop is Odeon. the street just after rue Mazarine and go through the You will be next to the über-famous 2. Deux small porthole doorway. And voilà — you are in the square which is home to the spectacular Institut Magots café at 6 Pl. St. Germain-des-Prés, which de France created in 1795 and which encom- was the favored café of Jean-Paul Sartre and passes the Beaux-Arts and the Simone de Beauvoir. Some people love to go here Académie to say they did. We prefer 3. Café de Flore, at Française among other Academies. 172 Blvd. St. Germain next door but in general both After you are done taking pictures of the Institut are overpriced and the waiters can be less than with its marvelous gold dome, cross the street friendly. walking across the 7. Pont des Arts pedestrian bridge. This is our favorite pedestrian Stroll on rue Bonaparte towards the Seine pass- bridge, which sees a lot of activity in the sum- ing Louis Vuitton on your left. Turn right on rue mer as people set up picnics with candelabras, Jacob. If you are already winded (God help you!) couscous and wine. It’s also a popular bridge you can stop into 4. Ladurée (located at 21 on New Year’s Eve where many Parisians con- rue Bonaparte) for lovely palmiers (elephant ears) gregate with their bottles of champagne be- or any other pastry and a cup of tea. This is a cause you can see the sparkling Eiffel Tower great place to buy a gift, as the boxes and pack- from here. Everyone wishes each other a aging are as delicious as the French pastries. “Bonne Année!” and if you are in Paris on New Ladurée has several other locations around Paris, Year’s, it’s a must! Enjoy the view as you pass including one on the Champs-Élysées as well as across and then enter one of the back en- another near the Madeleine. They are famous for trances to the square outside the Louvre, their macaroons. which will be right in front of you. Even at night you may go in this way. Continue along rue Jacob, which is a wonderful street chock-full of fabulous shops, antiques, and It’s fun to imagine that you’re coming home via bookstores. Turn left on rue de Seine. This street carriage to your palace after a ball, back in the is well known for its art galleries and the artist time of the Louis’. As you pass the small gar- hangout 5. La Palette at 43 rue de Seine. dens on either side and walk towards the foun- They serve breakfast and it’s always a good stop tain, imagine you’ll have to choose which of the for a drink. They have been here since 1902. As many rooms you might want to sleep in tonight. the name implies, it was frequented by painters 8. The Louvre is the largest museum in the

 42 19 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

world. Construction began in the 12th century artist who is still going strong into her late 90s. on the building and it was used back then as a She had to wait until she was quite old after her palace by François the 1st as well as the Sun husband and father had both died to be noticed King, Louis XIV. It did not become a museum by the international art establishment. Enjoy the until the early 1800s. After you have marveled at Tuileries at a casual pace — stop for a crêpe at this square inside the many exterior walls of the one of the stands. You’ll end at the Place de la Louvre, walk towards the archway to your left Concorde — where Marie Antoinette had her and pause for the dramatic view of the pyra- head chopped off. Don’t worry; they don’t do mide, then proceed through this archway and that kind of thing anymore in Paris. Go for a tea enjoy the larger square of the Louvre site. You or a glass of champagne at the 9. Hôtel de can enter the museum through the pyramide, Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. This is designed by I.M. Pei and opened in 1989. There the best hotel in Paris with a fabulous gift shop. was an uproar in Paris when it first opened, but You’ll be right near the metro stop Concorde right now most Parisians feel that the pyramide is a on the place. perfect marriage of the new with the old. It is especially beautiful when seen at night — the pyramide somehow makes the entire site more exciting and alive and with its shape echoes the ancient past as well as feeling quite modern even though it is now 20 years old. There are 35,000 works of art here so do not try and do it all. Pick one small area, enjoy that and be satis- fied. After your visit, stop for a bite at Café Points of Interest Addresses Marly, which faces the pyramide and is open every day for lunch and dinner. This is the best view of the pyramide and the Louvre in Paris. 1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain

If you have time and your feet aren’t aching yet — 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots continue straight on towards the small Arc de Triomphe structure which is named the Arc de 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore Triomphe du Carrousel. [The vrai (real) Arc de 4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Ladurée Triomphe is a very long walk away at the end of the Champs-Élysées.] Straight ahead are the Tuil- 5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette eries Gardens. The famous garden architect, Le 6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s Nôtre, planned the Tuileries. There is a carnival former home here in the summer. The sculptures in the gardens 7. Pont des Arts are lovely — not far from the Arc. Note the large piece by Louise Bourgeois, a French artist who 8. 93 Rue Rivoli – The Louvre / Café Marly now lives in New York, of a large spider eerily titled Maman (mother). This is the same sculpture you 9. 10, Place de la Concorde – Hotel de Crillon will find at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain & the Tate Modern in London. Bourgeois is an important

 53 20 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi

 1 21 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café

4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux (for cakes and tea) 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique

7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan

2  2 22 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

Tattered Pages (01 40 65 94 35) where you A good street for an hour-long shop-and- can pick up a cheap read and enjoy a cup of stroll, or longer. tea.

In the same area you’ll find the newly finished 9. Hammam Pacha at 17 rue Mayet (01 43 Start at rue Cherche Midi and rue Dupin. The 06 55 55). Mayet is a street off rue du Cher- closest metro stop is Rennes on the corner of che-Midi just before you reach Blvd Montpar- Blvd Raspail and Rennes. Walk north on Raspail nasse. Why not book an afternoon to relax in and turn left on Cherche Midi until you get to rue the sauna, ending in a four-hand massage? Dupin. Its worth noting that if you turn right on Cherche Midi you’ll come to 1. Le Cherche Also on the same street you’ll find 10. Maison Midi at number 22 (01 45 48 27 44). It has the de Fanfan, which is a very good consignment most delicious antipasto we’ve ever had outside shop specializing in smaller sizes. Near the tea of Italy, but reservations must be made in ad- salon there are several different stores all under vance, so come back another day once you re- the banner Chercheminippes, each specializing serve. One of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite Italian in consignment clothing for men, women and restaurants is on this street, the eponymously children, all located on rue du Cherche-Midi. named 2. Au Nom de la Rose at 50 is worth See if you can find a deal. noticing even though it’s a chain. It’s a unique flower shop selling only roses. Consider this Follow Mayet to the end, turn left on rue de your welcome to the beautiful rue Cherche Sèvres and follow for a long block until you get Midi. All addresses are on Cherche-Midi except to the Duroc metro stop. where noted.

3. The Nemrod Café at 51 is a typical Pari- sian brasserie for a bite or a coffee. 4. Autour Points of Interest Addresses du Monde, a chain with shops all over Paris, has an outpost at 57 selling wearable, reasona- 1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi bly priced stylish clothing. 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 5. Mamie Gâteaux at 66 rue du Cherche- Midi is a charming tea salon plus they have a 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café boutique and a brocante (antiques) shop! 4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde

6. M.A. Dauliac at 67 is good for antiques 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux and vintage art as well as art deco objects. Now (for cakes and tea) take a good stroll down the rue until you reach 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique until you reach the cross street rue St. Romain. Note 7. Le Bistrot Landais at 104 rue du 7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais Cherche-Midi (01 42 22 66 23) is a good place 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages to duck in for some hearty Landais food, think duck, foie gras and pâté. Further down after a 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha couple of blocks, turn right on rue Mayet, at 24, 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan is the used English bookshop 8. Tea and

 23 23 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th

 1 24 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy

8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 10. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)

11. 108 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection

12. 106 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel* 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice

 2 25 2 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin 21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles

31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 32. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10) 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre

 3 26 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5. This stroll can be done in just one hour or L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a more depending on how much you stop. good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it inter- (01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some sects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few avenue Rapp several blocks up from the pieces of clothing. We like its selection of metro stop École Militaire. Go over the Swildens tees. tour first, before you set out, and think about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner 7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.- at one of the many fine restaurants we Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.- morning. Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the Rue St. Dominique 1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s. Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a 1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Domi- charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not nique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and usually open to the public. coffee store where you can find some nice gifts such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler several other locations in Paris). market street, or wait until later so you can pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetiz- 2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.- ers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection, Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that chocolates and macarons. sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12. Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is Paris, at 129 rue St. 3. La Fontaine de Mars at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic red- and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique tableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truf- (crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out fle fan, this is an essential stop. of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined 14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique, here. is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.

In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area, 15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid French boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more brand with fashionable finds often available in lar- relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Domi- ger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris. nique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep 135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at since 1973. Les Cocottes).

 42 27 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St. Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers, architecture of some of the buildings on rue de for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic Grenelle as you enter this street and make a 17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find. right. 18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.- Dominique, where you can find younger Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn “downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19. right back up rue Amélie to check out the hand- Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nou- made-leather purse store, 27. Catherine gat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t in- Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious dulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53 tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region. 65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie, you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Ma- Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special yaro, which has some interesting items for the stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54), French home. On this same street is a new, very you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of modern hotel, which has reasonable rates be- florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Sté- ginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris: phane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was 29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 10 voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue 01). Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a look even if you aren’t hungry. Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice the 30. exquisite door handles at No. 22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, is 151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-and- jamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish lizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque com- down the rue until you reach No. 155, where ing on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby and turn left. clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05 16 96). 23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is a lovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics. street. Selections here are good for picnics or Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably making a meal in your rented apartment. 33. chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is head toward rue de Grenelle. at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at 186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on Rue de Grenelle the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.

At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai If you must have your American food fix (think store that you should enter. Not only does 26. Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56 and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden 98 62). you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plant- ings. An oasis of calm beauty. As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,

 53 28 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into. 15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel

Turn around and head south to return to the metro 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy, 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St. Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudon- 18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples nais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp. 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29, avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. San- cerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned am- bience, and of course a glass of Sancerre. 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin

21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco Points of Interest Addresses 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota Rue St. Dominique 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy 31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 32. Rue Cler market street 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 10. Rue Cler market street 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

 4 29 Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice 2. Café de la Mairie 3. Annick Goutal 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers 5. The Kooples 6. Hervé Chapelier 7. Pierre Hermé 8. Zadig et Voltaire 9. Agnès B. 10. Vilebrequin

11. Agnès B. 12. Au Vieux Colombier 13. Victoire Homme 14. Marcel Lassance 15. Longchamp 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier

17. Le Bon Marché

Cont.

18. Camper 31. Heimstone 19. Robert Clergerie 32. Puyricard 20. Maje 33. Kamille 21. Gerbe 34. Lutetia 22. Poilâne 37. La Maison du Chocolat 23. La Cuisine de Bar 38. Hermès 24. Metal Pointu’s 39. Arnys 25. Le Civette 40. IKKS 26. Lilith 41. Maje 27. Cotélac 42. Mac Douglas 28. Cécile et Jeanne 43. Gérard Darel 29. N. Villaret 44. Losco 30. Le Cherche Midi

35. Le Bon Marché 36. La Grande Epicerie

45. Manoush 54. Sabbia Rosa 46. Repetto 55. Baby Buddha 47. Tod’s 56. Ventilo 48. COS 57. Iro 49. Sonia Rykiel 58. Paul and Joe 50. Borsalino 59. Y’s 51. Prada 60. Barbara Bui 52. YSL 61. Karry’O 53. Tara Jarmon 62. Maison Fabre

Cont.

63. JC de Castelbajac 64. Zef 65. Sonia Rykiel 66. Etro 67. Ralph Lauren

68. Gérard Darel 69. Façonnable 70. L’Ecume des Pages 71. Café de Flore 72. Les Deux Magots 73. Brasserie Lipp 74. Eglise Saint-Germain 75. Louis Vuitton 76. Assouline

77. Richart 85. Eugène Delacroix 78. Ladurée 86. Arty Dandy 79. Simrane 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss 80. Maison Rustique 88. Ollivary 81. Michèle Aragon 89. Isabel Marant 82. Librairie Signature 90. La Palette 83. Michel Klein 91. Galerie Documents 84. Pierre Frey

Cont.

Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is great to have on hand in case you do more shopping today than you anticipated. chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shop- Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier, ping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on this tour. the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s irst shop in Paris (72, Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the Saint- rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous Sulpice metro station. Construction of this church, macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646 rose-lavored macarons. This is one of the best- and was mostly complete a century later. As you en- known patisseries in Paris. ter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colom- light to see them well. The church is also famous for bier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and (1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The irst store is for a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need women, and the second is for men. Across the street sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right, is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier) stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place boutique for women. This French designer gives us Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame, of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed 10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) car- by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed ries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys. Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neigh- Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12, borhood, and it has the best view. rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always ind great gifts to take home to the men in your life. There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes), try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Pa- Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house risian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards, known for its butterly-capped bottles. These fragrances the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately your pocketbook happy. after this shop you’ll ind 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers (12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place Saint- Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store Sulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable (this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Co- a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colom- lombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which bier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13. carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colom- easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also bier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is 34 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), a du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic classic French label for handbags and luggage, and designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing. (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the French, buy tickets for a show. Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man and a cherub-like igure tracing a sundial, and is As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carre- inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.” four de la Croix Rouge, with ive choices of direction. Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to department store in Paris and one of the city’s best. 29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy There is great shopping in each direction, but irst go our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30. down rue du Cherche Midi to the left. le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23, On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky, Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look shoe company, with a particularly good selection for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du scrumptious chocolates from Provence. Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man, half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see the 1980s by the French sculptor César. 33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach There are many shops worth noting on rue du boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45, Cherche Midi, the irst being 19. Robert Clergerie (5, boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes. partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s well- the side of the building before you reach the corner, loved French designs. A good place to stock up on explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which during the occupation. While that’s not a charming was established in 1904. Farther along on the right, claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to and probably the most famous place on this street, stay. is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread, Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewel- all the ixings for the ultimate picnic. ry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette (15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue 35 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many Lutetia you’ll ind 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, rue gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5, de Sèvres). Next to that you’ll ind one of the new- rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend est 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris. buying non-French goods that can be bought at Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among limit, do stop in. them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de 53. Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and ind Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), a expensive). good stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des Saints- Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable Pères). She can outit you in some of the most beau- clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41. tiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas* des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bo- (9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and hemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of 43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères), a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes. well known for blazers for the country gentleman with a serious bank account. Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres), again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle). where you can pick out the type of leather and buck- Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe le you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go (62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du French designers, which carries styles for kids as Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle. well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji 45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51, Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is rue du Four), where you’ll ind those ballerina lats 60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose that are all the rage. vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) of- Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and con- fers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door tinue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47. is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères), Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther well known for its leather gloves, which it has been down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle), making since 1924. Continue along rue des Saints- owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and afford- Pères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC able designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle) ; the irst store is for for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64. enfants (children), and the second is for women. Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for kids’ clothing. Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a 36 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain. 1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step in- At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard side and have a look around. Back across the street Saint-Germain), where you’ll ind shoes and bags. To is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-des- the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, bou- Prés); stop in if you must bring back a little some- levard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After thing from the iconic brand. Continue north along the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to (173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a ind 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful store as well as a café that is famous for its cheese- international book publisher selling its mark only. As burger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in. you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bona- Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard parte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates. Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and On the right you’ll ind 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bona- 69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), a parte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee. shop for the preppy set. Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift, but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, bou- before you travel. levard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss French, you can ind some travel guides in English 79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll ind and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the charming French linens, napkins and tablecloths. 71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain) Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6, 80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is green facade and specializes in books about garden- the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard Saint- ing and plants. For very rich kilims and French pot- Germain). These are three of the most famous cafés tery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made you want to return home with a piece of history, visit famous by the bevy of writers and historic igures 82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus, for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu, French écrivain (author). On the right side, ind 83. Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on men, women and children and is well known for its the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll ind the prices are extremely high and the service often rude. two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1, They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try fabrics. the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Pari- sians and where the service is slightly less rude. You Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to and head up rue Bonaparte. stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Ger- square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s, main (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de 37 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont. Points of Interest Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily 2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice except Tuesday. Tel: 01 43 26 67 82 3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can ind fun gifts 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn 5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square 6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the 7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77 left, you’ll ind 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob), 8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier which carries some of the most sought-after bags in 9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier Paris. Across the street, the designer has another 10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier store for men. 11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier 12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary 13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier (1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury 14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a 15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip Tel: 01 44 39 87 00 French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss. 17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres In her late 40s, she still looks 25! 18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin, 19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to ind 20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi 90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and 21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi ’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as 22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59 Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the 23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de Tel: 01 45 48 45 69 24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie post- 25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi ers and other graphic art. Window-shop the galler- 26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi ies you see along the street. If you continue on rue 27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de 28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts. 29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50 30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 27 44 31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi 32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi *A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP 33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville members receive discounts at these and other loca- 34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90 tions. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to 35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00 Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our 36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres partners (there are more than 200 restaurants, Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00 shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit 37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-beneits.php. Tel: 01 45 44 20 40

1 1  40 Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert 2. 47 Blvd. St. Germain – Dubois 3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte-Genevieve 5. Rue Mouffetard 7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway Home 9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pantheon

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger 8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

2  2 41 Gourmet Tour cont’d

Begin your gourmet tour in the 5th Arrondissement After you’ve had your spiritual and cultural side at 1. the Marché Maubert, which takes place revitalized, follow rue Clovis toward rue Des- Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 7 to cartes, where you’ll turn right. You’ll stroll along 2:30 at the Place Maubert, near the Maubert- this street until it becomes 5. rue Mouffetard, Mutualité metro. Peruse the different stalls and which is a classic Parisian market street. During vendors, asking for samples when appropriate. Roman times, this was known as the road to You might see fish and shellfish you’ve never seen Rome. It is a very ancient street, indeed. Every- before, so don’t be afraid to ask what something one who comes to Paris strolls at one point along is, especially if there is no one waiting to be rue Mouffetard. You’ll see some very touristy ca- served. In general the vendors are quite friendly. fés, which you should avoid. If you want to stop, You might want to buy some fruit or sausage to wait until the very end of the street, where you’ll sample later. find an adorable little café called 6. La Salle à Manger at 136, rue Mouffetard on your right. For cheese, duck into 2. Dubois, which is at 47, You can have tea or coffee here alfresco on their boulevard St.-Germain (01 43 54 50 93), facing small terrace. But before you get there, about one the market on the same side of the boulevard. -third of the way down Mouffetard, you will run Laurent Dubois won a prize called the Meilleur des into a square, Place de la Contrescarpe, with a Fromages, meaning that he is recognized not only fountain. Around the corner here is 7. 74, rue for his quality cheeses, but also for the artistic way du Cardinal-Lemoine, where you will find a he prepares and ages his products. His goat little plaque indicating that Ernest Hemingway cheeses are particularly impressive. We think once lived on the third floor. He shared a cold- you’ll find plenty of fromage to buy and sample water flat here with his first wife while he wrote A here. Moveable Feast. You can spend an entire day or two trailing Hemingway’s life in Paris by following Walking down the street toward the 5th and turn- Michael Palin’s Hemingway walk. ing right on rue Monge, you’ll find a prizewinning boulangerie called 3. Kayser at 14, rue Monge If you love ice cream, 8. Octave Ice Cream, (01 44 07 17 81). Eric Kayser is very famous for at 138, rue Mouffetard, is a good bet. his cereal breads, but we love his seeded baguettes. His pastries are also divine. Buy and sam- If you need more gourmet fun, check out 9. Le ple as much as you can! Note: he has another Boulanger de Monge, at 123, rue Monge, a store at 8, rue Monge, as well as many more street which is parallel to Mouffetard (01 43 37 54 throughout Paris. 20). This bread maker was given three stars for their baguette by Le Guide des Boulangeries. To After all this sampling, turn right on rue des Ber- find this spot, walk to the end of Mouffetard and nardins and follow the road south until it ends at down rue de Bazeilles until you get to rue Monge. rue des Écoles, where you’ll turn right. Go to rue Turn left on you’ll see Le Boulanger on your right. de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and take a left, curving around until you hit rue Clovis. Turn left 10. Les Caves du Panthéon, at 174, rue St.- and go into the church 4. St.-Étienne-du- Jacques (01 46 33 90 35), is an excellent wine Mont, a beautiful Gothic structure from 1492. store. Pick up a bottle of Brut Zero Champagne. You are at place Ste.-Geneviève, near the Pan- To reach this stop, travel north on rue Mouffetard théon. If you haven’t yet visited King Louis XV’s up to rue Jean Calvin and turn left. When you monument to himself, the Panthéon, you can reach the place Lucien Herr take rue LHomond check it out now.

 32 42 Gourmet Tour cont’d

north until it jogs and become rue des Fossés-Saint -Jacques. Follow this road until you reach rue Saint -Jacques and turn right. Les Caves will be on your left before you reach rue Soufflot. You’ll be near the Cluny-Sorbonne metro stop which is further north on rue St-Jacques and then left on Blvd. St- Germain.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert

2. 47 Blvd. Saint Germain – Dubois

3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte- Gene- vieve

5. Rue Mouffetard

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger

7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway home

8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pan- theon

 43 43 Quick Gourmet Tour

1 1  44 Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. 76 rue de Seine (corner of Lobineau in the 6th) – Gerard Mulot 2. 14 rue Lobineau – Marché St. Germain

3. 89 rue de Seine – Pierre Marcolini 4. 64 rue de Seine – Fromagerie 31 * 5. 62 rue de Seine – Da Rosa

6. Corner of rue de Seine and rue Buci – Paul 7. 32 rue de Buci – Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne 8. 6 rue Jacob – Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils

2  2 *Closed for Renovations 45 Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

Our quick gourmet tour begins in the 6th Arron- Also stop into 7. Aux Vrais Produits dissement at 1. Gérard Mulot, at 76, rue de d’Auvergne, at 32, rue de Buci (01 43 25 63 Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). Mulot offers de- 41), which offers beautiful sausages and other lectables from chocolates to quiche and every- products from the Auvergne region of France. thing in between. We love nearly everything made at Mulot. As you leave the shop, to your right Continue along rue de Seine, turn left on you’ll see 2. the Marché St. Germain, which rue Jacob and you’ll see a tiny shop called is an updated covered market offering the basic 8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils, fish, meat, cheese and fruit and vegetable stands. at 6, rue Jacob (01 46 34 61 55), made famous This is not the best one in Paris, but it is small to Americans by Patricia Wells. Many a gourmet and the quality is good. treks here to pick up a bottle of their pistachio oil, but all of their oils are excellent and a bottle From the market, turn left and then left again at makes a wonderful gift for a foodie. rue de Seine, walking north toward the river. Stop into 3. Pierre Marcolini, at 89, rue de Seine (01 44 07 39 07). Pierre is actually Belgian, but don’t tell anyone and you’ll enjoy these choco- * Sadly these locations have closed. lates every bit as much as the French ones.

Continue along rue de Seine, pass boulevard St. -Germain and stop into 4. Fromagerie 31*, at 64, rue de Seine (01 43 26 50 31). You can sit down here for an assiette de fromages (a cheese tasting) for a reasonable charge. Or you can take one of their lovely cheeses back to your hotel or apartment. Only slightly farther up the street is 5. Da Rosa, at 62, rue de Seine (01 45 21 41 30), where you can purchase jamon ibérico (the Points of Interest Addresses world’s best Spanish ham) as well as many other 1. Begin at Gerard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine at the things Spanish and Italian. Be ready to pay for corner of Lobineau in the 6th the Iberian ham, but it is truly better than any drug we’ve ever known. You can also sit down and 2. Marché St. Germain – 14 rue Lobineau sample from their menu and enjoy a glass of wine. 3. Pierre Marcolini – 89 rue de Seine 4. – As you approach the Buci market area (on rue de Fromagerie 31 64 rue de Seine Seine and along rue de Buci), you’ll see 6. Paul 5. Da Rosa – 62 rue de Seine at the corner of Buci and Seine (01 55 42 02 23). You can often see the bakers flipping and shaping 6. Paul – corner of rue de Seine and rue de Buci their dough in the window. Paul is good for breakfast and for takeout sandwiches. They are a chain 7. Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne – 32 rue de Buci with 300 stores in Europe alone. 8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils – 6 rue Jacob

 32 46 Pastry and Chocolate Tour

1 47 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

1. Begin on rue Palatine in the 6th at Saint Sulpice 2. 8 place St. Sulpice – Café de la Mairie 3. 72 rue Bonaparte – Pierre Hermé

4. 16 rue d’Assas – Jean-Charles Rochoux 5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. 19 rue Vaugirard – Musee du Luxembourg 7. 76 rue de Seine – Gerard Mulot

48 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

8. 108 Blvd. Saint Germain – Patrick Roger

9. 34 Blvd. Saint Germain – Diptyque

3  3 49 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

Gosome back time to rue de Vaugirard, taking This stroll is over two kilometers, because now to stroll through 5. the Luxembourg you’ve got to walk off the calories, ladies! Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens center Biking the tour is another option. around the Marie de Medici’s palace constructed in the early 1600’s. Marie, widow of Henry the IV, NOTE: Shops might be closed on Sundays. also commissioned the gardens. The Palace is used today by the Senate of France. Find the Start in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. St.- Medici fountain built in 1630 to the rear and east Sulpice, on rue Palatine, and enjoy the beautiful of the palace, which is a charming place to relax redone fountains. Stop inside the church if you on a sunny day. 6. the Musée du Luxem- never have and view the Delacroix painting in the bourg, a delightful small museum that often has small alcove to the right as you walk in. This excellent shows. Stop in and experience some church figured heavily in The Da Vinci Code. culture.

If you need some caffeine, 2. Café de la Exiting the museum, continue along Vaugirard Mairie (just to the right of the church as you exit toward rue de Tournon. Stop and admire the Pal- onto the square) is a good stop and a true ais du Luxembourg (Le Sénat), which was for- neighborhood café. merly Marie de Médicis’s palace and is now home to the French Senate. Turn left here, onto rue de Walk on rue St.-Sulpice toward rue Bonaparte Tournon. Walk along this street until it becomes and take a right, looking out for 3. Pierre rue de Seine. Here you’ll find 7. Gérard Mulot, Hermé, at 72, rue Bonaparte (01 43 54 47 77). at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). We He is the absolute king of macaroons in Paris. love everything at Mulot, so sample whatever French macaroons, not the coconut ones we catches your eye. Maybe you are ready for a bit know in the U.S. Do sample the rose macaroons, of a savory taste. Their small quiches are excel- which are the Girls’ Guide favorites, but each and lent, and they will warm them up for you. every flavor is excellent. These make a marvelous gift — as long as you are giving them out Follow rue de Seine north toward boulevard St.- soon as they don’t keep long. All of Pierre’s Germain, where you’ll turn right. Walk all the way pastries are worth the calories, as he is truly a to number 108, the chocolate master 8. Pat- master. rick Roger’s delightful store. We love the fan- tastic window displays and his creative concoc- Turn back toward rue St.-Sulpice and follow rue tions using spices from all around the world. Plus, Bonaparte until you reach rue de Vaugirard at the the plain chocolate bars are simply superb. We Luxembourg Gardens. Turn right, walk several love his aqua-green packaging, and all in all we blocks and turn right on rue d’Assas. Walk to just LOVE Patrick Roger. Pick up a gift here number 16 and enter 4. Jean-Charles Ro- unless you are already loaded down. choux’s chocolate shop (01 42 84 29 45). He makes incredibly artistic busts of famous French For a peaceful end to a decadent day, we suggest figures such as Molière, as well as many other a stop into 9. Diptyque, at 34, boulevard St.- more traditional chocolates. Germain (01 43 26 77 44), to pick up a gift for yourself or a friend. Their candles and perfumes Save yourself some room, as we have several are legendary. You simply cannot go wrong here. more stops to go.

2  4 50 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

Note this last stop is a ways (over half a kilome- ter) from Patrick Roger, so if it is raining or you are wiped out you can skip it. But you will regret not having a couple of these candles packed in your bag when you travel home.

* Museum to reopen in fall 2011 .

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at St.‐Sulpice on rue Palatine in the 6th

2. Café de la Mairie – 8 place St. Sulpice

3. Pierre Hermé – 72 rue Bonaparte

4. Jean‐Charles Rochoux – 16 rue d’Assas

5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. Musée du Luxembourg – 19 rue Vaugirard

7. Gérard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine

8. Patrick Roger – 108 Blvd. Saint Germain

9. Diptyque – 34 Blvd. Saint Germain

2  5 51