EUROS 2020

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Every two years, everyone says, ‘This will be a tournament like no other’, and, sure enough, a couple of epic games, a INTRO penalty shoot-out or two and one long, drawn-out finals later, it all melds into one. Can anyone who didn’t play in it actually remember Slovakia 0 0 from 2016? Greece 1 0 from 2012?

But Euro 2020 will be so radically Welcome to different, its entry in the football annals liberoguide.com! so festooned with asterisks, that it The digital travel guide for cannot fail to stand out. For a kick-off, football fans, liberoguide.com it’s 2021. This sprawling, ambitious, is the most up-to-date resource, city-by-city, club-by-club, to the 12-city extravaganza, conceived by EUROS 2020-21 to mark UEFA’s 60th game across and North anniversary, has been pruned to 11 host America. Using only original CONTENTS . Most will be barely a third photos and first-hand research, 1-3 Intro full for the tournament. The fact that taken and undertaken over seven 4 Schedule this is happening at all is… Reckless? seasons, liberoguide.com has 5-7 8 Wembley Righteous? Risky? been put together to enhance every football weekend and Euro 9 10 Johan Cruijff ArenA Yes, there are sponsors to please, night experience. From airport 11 to arena, downtown sports bar TV audiences to entertain, the whole 12 Baku Olympic to hotel, liberoguide.com helps soccer circus to keep on the road. And 13 yet… Around 2230 CET on 12 November you get the best out of your visit 14 National Arena 2020, almost exactly seven months to football’s furthest corners and 15 showcase stadiums. before Euro 2020’s grand opening in Wembley 16 Puskás Aréna June 2021, every single living room 17 across Hungary was going doobatlally Marshall doing a double- his a plane, it won’t be routine, except for and five other games, 25 years after 18 Parken when Dominik Szoboszlai planted a heroics had been legit. Over in , now routine pandemic restrictions, so Euro 96 and all that. 19 completely improbable stoppage-time a last-gasp Slovakia own goal had we’ll all be settling down to Austria v 20 winner off an Icelandic goalpost and given Northern Ireland the ultimately North Macedonia with relish instead But football is also going to Baku. 21 22 into the net of an empty Puskás Aréna, false hope that extra-time would send of weary duty. We’re here. After the ( play at least twice in Baku, 23 built for the specific purpose of hosting them to another Euro finals. All this in near seismic 48-hour wobble of the 5,000km from .) It’s going to 24 Euro 2020. Just south in , a space of half-an-hour. We’ve got a European Super League, football is Amsterdam, Bucharest, Copenhagen, 25 St Petersburg Scottish hearts were being squeezed whole month of this. here. In fact, as will surely be blaring Glasgow, Munich, Rome and St 26 Stadium through the wringer as the play-off out of every window across England, Petersburg. It’s going to La Cartuja, 27 final with Serbia went into extra-time And, let’s face it, we all need it. And, it’s coming home, the Expo island in Seville, where two 28 La Cartuja then penalties, even goalkeeper David much like the next time we all get on due to host both semi-finals, the final Spanish Cup finals have recently been

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played within the space of a month, and to Budapest, planning for four INTRO matches in that aforementioned arena, 100% full with vaccinated spectators.

What goes on outside those stadiums is another matter. Fan zones and street parties can’t happen but it’s hard to imagine any Hungarian result in a group comprising recent major trophy winners , Portugal and not being celebrated along the Nagykörút in Budapest. The central squares of Copenhagen and St Petersburg may not be swarming with Finns, but their team’s participation at a major finals for the first time Germany last November, Leipzig’s since 1938 demands deep pools of – could well win beer, wherever and however they back the trophy they lifted in 2012. can be sunk. Then there is, in fact, Austria v North Macedonia, the Balkan For Holland, teenager Ryan debutants hot to trot after that shock Gravenberch has had a superb win over Germany in March. The venue, season, holding the midfield for Bucharest, is such a tantalisingly champions Ajax, though Frank de doable drive from Skopje… Sadly, Boer’s managerial reputation still though, the distant and the virtual needs a little polishing since leaving must take priority here. Safety first. Amsterdam in 2016. Austria’s young Even when it’s England-Scotland. Saša Kalajdžić may cause problems to defences in Group C, and veteran Teams & tips North Macedonia captain Goran France are favourites, now that an standing manager Joachim Löw to attack – Phil Foden, Mason Mount, and , although time caught Pandev will be looking to write yet on-fire Karim Benzema has been retire with dignity. In that same group, Jack Grealish – but a big question up with potential opponent Zlatan another fairytale after scoring the only welcomed back into the Gallic fold to Portugal’s Cristiano Ronaldo bows mark between the sticks. Scotland Ibrahimović, 40 (!) next birthday. goal in the Euro play-off in Georgia, partner with… (ulp!) Kylian Mbappé. out from the big stage and Hungary have their tails up, Croatia surely see Do look out, however, for ’s and the opener that shocked Germany Also in Group F, old warhorses will at least be roared on by a home the last and possibly best of Luka 21-year-old Alexander Isak, prolific four months later. Under Andriy Thomas Müller and Mats Hummels crowd for two games. Modrić and while the Czech Republic for Real Sociedad in 2020-21. With Shevchenko, Ukraine should not be should provide stability to a German continue to improve. Marek Hamšík awesome youngsters – discounted, topping their qualifying team always capable of collapse, In Group D, England have an and Robert Lewandowski will surely City’s Ferran Torres and Rodri, both group unbeaten by overcoming Euro though players will want long- embarrassment of talented riches in have their swansongs for Slovakia on the mark in the 6-0 whitewash of 2016 winners Portugal with ten men.

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before. The top two plus four best

third-placed sides go through to the INTRO final 16. Head-to-head records decide tiebreakers. Extra-time and penalties follow 90 minutes if needed in the knock-out stage, when a sixth (!) substitution be made.

Kick-off times are at 8pm (9pm CET) and 5pm (6pm CET), with a handful of group games at 2pm (3pm CET). Between the opener in Rome on 11 June and final at Wembley on 11 July, 51 games will be played, most of them in stadiums filled to around 25-33% capacity. Each destination has its rules on entry – we provide a link showing the guidelines for each on every city page.

Ticketing has been a logistical maze, compounded by and Bilbao dropping out as host venues. For all details, see .com/uefaeuro-2020/ ticketing. It is still not yet clear how Also favoured, Belgium feature two will be looking to make Barella and striker solid, agelessly elegant manager many will fill Wembley for the semis players in peak form for title-winning their mark on the big stage. Teemu key players still in their early twenties. Vladimir Petković in charge since 2014. and final. Should squads fall victim to clubs, and Romelu Pukki has scored a goal every three Midfielder could seal Wales make a welcome return to the Covid, there’s flexibility for the fixture Lukaku, and another happy to put the games for while compatriot his status as an all-time great. All finals after an outstanding Euro 2016 to be shifted to within 48 hours of the domestic season behind him, Eden Marcus Forss hit a vital one for his bodes well for Turkey, too. Three and that run to the semi-final. Although original date, a necessary proviso Hazard. Russia will be looking to club Brentford to send them into the heroes of Lille’s remarkable season preparations have been hampered by under the circumstances. repeat the heroics of the 2018 World Championship play-off final. in France – right-back Zeki Çelik, manager Ryan Giggs’ arrest and the Cup, Artëm Dzyuba top scorer for attacking midfielder Yusuf Yazıcı and, fluctuating form of Gareth Bale, passion Making their Euro debuts will be champions Zenit in 2020-21, hitting The whole shebang starts in Rome, most of all, striker Burak Yılmaz – will not be lacking. Basing the squad in Finland, North Macedonia, VAR – yes, seven in their last three games. where two in-form sides, Italy and regroup under Şenol Güneş, who led Baku also makes logistical sense. it’s that long ago since Euro 2016 – For , goalkeeper Kasper Turkey, clash at the Stadio Olimpico. the Crescent Stars to the World Cup and Skillzy, the official mascot whose Schmeichel was equally outstanding Robert Mancini’s men haven’t lost semi-finals in 2002. With a midfield Timings & tickets man bun grates so badly, VARman in ’s recent FA Cup win, since 2018, goalkeeper Gianluigi featuring Granit Xhaka and Xherdan Euro 2020 involves 24 teams in six may have been a better concept for and young strikers Jonas Wind and Donnarumma, midfielder Nicolò Shaqiri, will always be groups of four, the same as the finals designers to work with.

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ST PETERSBURG AMSTERDAM 12.6/4 Johan Cruijff ArenA BEL v RUS GROUP A GLASGOW p9-p10 9pm/8pm UK A1 Turkey (TUR) 14.6/8 14.6/10 A2 Italy (ITA) LONDON SCO v CZE COPENHAGEN POL v SVK A3 Wales (WAL) 3pm/2pm UK BAKU 6pm/5pm UK A4 Switzerland (SWZ) 13.6/7 12.6/3 Baku ENG v CRO 18.6/19 DEN v FIN 16.6/15 p11-p12 3pm/2pm UK CRO v CZE 6pm/5pm UK FIN v RUS 6pm/5pm UK 3pm/2pm UK 18.6/20 AMSTERDAM 17.6/16 ENG v SCO 22.6/31 DEN v BEL 18.6/21 BUCHAREST 9pm/8pm UK CRO v SCO 13.6/5 6pm/5pm UK SWE v SVK GROUP B 9pm/8pm UK HOL v UKR National Arena 3pm/2pm UK B1 Denmark (DEN) 22.6/32 9pm/8pm UK 21.6/27 CZE v ENG 29.6/43 RUS v DEN 21.6/28 B2 Finland (FIN) p13-p14 17.6/17 9pm/8pm UK R16/1E v 9pm/8pm UK FIN v BEL B3 Belgium (BEL) 3A/B/C/D HOL v AUS 9pm/8pm UK BUDAPEST 26.6/37 9pm/8pm UK 9pm/8pm UK 28.6/42 B4 Russia (RUS) R16/1A v 2C R16/2D v 2E 23.6/34 Puskás Aréna 9pm/8pm UK 21.6/29 6pm/5pm UK SWE v POL MAC v HOL 6pm/5pm UK p15-p16 29.6/44 6pm/5pm UK R16/1D v 2F 2.7/45 6pm/5pm UK 26.6/38 QF/W41 v W42 GROUP C COPENHAGEN R16/2A v 2B 6pm/5pm UK 6.7/49 6pm/5pm UK C1 Holland (HOL) Parken SF/W46 v W45 C2 Ukraine (UKR) p17-p18 9pm/8pm UK C3 Austria (AUS) 7.7/50 C4 North Macedonia (MAC) SF/W48 v W47 GLASGOW 9pm/8pm UK Hampden Park 11.7/51 p19-p20 F/W49 v W50 9pm/8pm UK GROUP D LONDON D1 England (ENG) Wembley Stadium MUNICH D2 Croatia (CRO) p5-p8 15.6/12 D3 Scotland (SCO) FRA v GER D4 Czech Republic (CZE) 9pm/8pm UK MUNICH 19.6/24 POR v GER Allianz Arena 6pm/5pm UK BUDAPEST p21-p22 BAKU 23.6/36 15.6/11 GROUP E GER v HUN HUN v POR BUCHAREST 12.6/2 E1 Spain (SPA) SEVILLE 9pm/8pm UK 6pm/5pm UK WAL v SWZ ROME ROME 13.6/6 3pm/2pm UK E2 Sweden (SWE) 2.7/46 19.6/23 AUS v MAC Stadio Olimpico 14.6/9 6pm/5pm UK E3 Poland (POL) SPA v SWE QF/W39 v W37 11.6/1 HUN v FRA 16.6/13 p23-p24 9pm/8pm UK 9pm/8pm UK TUR v ITA 3pm/2pm UK TUR v WAL E4 Slovakia (SVK) 9pm/8pm UK 17.6/18 6pm/5pm UK 23.6/35 UKR v MAC 19.6/22 3pm/2pm UK ST PETERSBURG SPA v POL 16.6/14 POR v FRA 20.6/25 9pm/8pm UK ITA v SWZ 9pm/8pm UK SWZ v TUR Saint Petersburg Stadium 9pm/8pm UK 21.6/30 6pm/5pm UK 27.6/40 UKR v AUS 23.6/33 6pm/5pm UK GROUP F p25-p26 SVK v SPA 20.6/26 R16/1C v 3D/E/F 3.7/47 6pm/5pm UK ITA v WAL 6pm/5pm UK QF/W40 v W38 F1 Hungary (HUN) 6pm/5pm UK 28.6/41 F2 Portugal (POR) SEVILLE R16/1F v 3A/B/C 27.6/39 9pm/8pm UK F3 France (FRA) R16/1B v 3.7/46 La Cartuja 3A/D/E/F QF/W39 v W37 F4 Germany (GER) p27-p28 9pm/8pm UK 9pm/8pm UK liberoguide.com 4 EUROS 2020 London www.liberoguide.com/london

Bearings LONDON London For official guidelines concerning visiting London for the Euros, check Selected to host eight games this link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/ including the semi-finals and final event-guide/london/stadium/. of Euro 2020, home of six Premier Five main airports serve London. League clubs and a national stadium, Heathrow is 27km (17 miles) west of London is a soccer mecca second- town, connected by Tube (Piccadilly to-none. The stadium in question, line, 45mins, pay by Oyster card or Wembley, has been the stage for one contactless) and the pricy Heathrow World Cup, seven Champions League Express fast train to Paddington finals, one Euro and now another to (15mins). Gatwick is 47km (30 miles) follow. south of town, connected by the Gatwick Express to Victoria Station Thousands come from Scandinavia, (30mins). Regular trains to Victoria Russia and beyond to catch the are cheaper and just as quick. Luton world’s top stars in action at North is 56km (35 miles) north of town, London rivals Arsenal and Tottenham, connected by rail to St Pancras and at 2021 Champions League (45mins), which includes the shuttle winners, Chelsea. While Chelsea have bus to Luton Airport Parkway station. put their stadium rebuilding plans on Stansted Airport is 48km (30 miles) hold, Tottenham moved into their new north-east of town, connected by one in 2019 after nearly two whole Stansted Express to Liverpool Street seasons at Wembley. Across the city (45mins). A black cab from any of in Stratford, West Ham are based at these airports to town should cost the that staged the £60-£100, cheaper with a minicab. By Olympic Games in 2012. Docklands, London City Airport is the Lane was located, home of 1988 FA The capital is also the seat of the performed well in the glamorous closest to town, 11km (seven miles) Built for the 1908 Games, White City Cup winners Wimbledon. Nearby, Football Association, the stuffy body cup competitions but poorly in the from the capital’s financial centre. It also staged a random group game Sutton won the National League in who ran the game from its foundation long, gruelling league championship. has its own stop on the Docklands for the 1966 World Cup before being 2021 and now join The 92. South-east at the Freemasons’ Tavern in Great All this changed with the arrival of Light Railway (DLR) line, 17mins from demolished in 1985. Nearby, Queen’s of the river, you find Crystal Palace, Queen Street in 1863 to the inaugural Arsène Wenger as coach of Arsenal Stratford International and the London Park Rangers have been trying to Charlton and Millwall, local rivals Football League in 1888. Drafting and Roman Abramovich as owner of Stadium. move out of cramped Loftus Road for who occasionally share divisional the rules of the game, the FA then Chelsea. Eight titles have come to years, without success. New stadiums status. Firmly rooted in East London, introduced a challenge cup, first the capital since 1998. During that The hub for Eurostar services from have opened during the pandemic, Leyton Orient recently rediscovered won in 1872 by Wanderers, a team time, Wembley, opened in 1923, was and is at St Pancras. however, Brentford’s near Kew Bridge league status, while further east, of Old Harrovians originally based completely rebuilt and reopened, The city’s main international bus station and AFC Wimbledon’s, beside Dagenham & Redbridge are battling in Snaresbrook, near Epping Forest. making it the showcase once again for station is Victoria, a 10min walk from the site where the original Plough to do the same. Ever since, London teams traditionally the national game. the main train station of the same

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Premier Inn Wembley

by the stadium itself. Just behind, rising up alongside each other, are an ibis and a Holiday Inn.

Right by Wembley Park Tube station, you can’t miss the large, gleaming Premier Inn, a handy budget name. London Transport consists Bed served St Pancras in the great steam choice. Also close are the Wembley of the Tube, buses, local and light Visit London (visitlondon.com) and era. For something more wallet- International Hotel, with 165 value- rail, the network divided into zones. information desks at major stations can friendly, a row of cheap(ish) lodgings conscious rooms and a sports bar, and, Day passes (Travelcards) are sold help with booking. Staying cheaply in between Euston Station and the over the road, the business-friendly Travelodge Marylebone according to zones, and the price of London is close to impossible, though British Museum lines Gower Street, St George. Near Wembley Stadium all-day travel is capped for Oyster there are affordable guesthouses of including the Arosfa and Gower Street rail, The Arch is a 14-room hotel with users. There are no more cash fares varying standards around Victoria, Hotels. For a little football history, Plenty of options surround Wembley a sports bar and Indian restaurant. on buses, only payment by Oyster Euston and King’s Cross Stations. then the Great Cumberland Place and convenient access points. Right You can also try the en-suite rooms or contactless. Heathrow, Gatwick by Marble Arch is where the Magic on Wembley Way, stands the gym- above the Green Man , up a steep and London City airports are within If you’re arriving or departing by Magyar team stayed in 1953, though equipped, four-star Novotel. Even little climb from the stadium. Around the Oyster zone, Luton and Stansted Eurostar, the Great Northern Hotel is this contemporary lodging looked far closer, the Hilton has a pool, sauna and Baker Street, convenient for Wembley, require separate tickets. now a luxury boutique option, having different then. the panoramic Sky Bar 9 backdropped the Holmes Hotel offers stylish

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Globe at Canary Wharf, Clapham Junction, LONDON Farringdon and Old Street.

A Panenka above mainstream chains, table-football bars the Café Kick in Exmouth Market and Bar Kick in , are both outstanding, with retro, continental designer touches, decent food and a party atmosphere. Elsewhere, diagonally opposite Madame Tussauds, the TV-equipped Globe is a convivial choice before Café Kick the trek to Wembley. For dozens of screens to watch at any one time, head over to the Famous 3 Kings by West Kensington Tube.

Shops Shopping mecca London doesn’t lack for soccer boutiques. Traditional Lillywhites, in a prime location right on Piccadilly, has scores of kits on Café Kick the second floor. On there’s a large outlet for PUMA. The at the 55 Restaurant and Frankie’s non-players too. In the heart of , the Freemasons Arms may not be the main branches for adidas are on Sports Bar. The business-friendly calcio-centric Bar Italia is a perennial exact place where the FA convened nearby Foubert’s Place and at 425 rooms in a restored Georgian property. DoubleTree by Hilton Chelsea is also classic while the Queens Head behind in 1863 but displays documentation Oxford Street, along which you’ll Similarly classy with a spa to boot, convenient for Stamford Bridge, steps Piccadilly dates back to 1736 and to that effect. Almost next door, find a number of generic sportswear The Landmark stands slap opposite away from Imperial Wharf station. shows games. Another classic Soho Philomena’s Irish Sport Bar & shops and stalls selling replica Marylebone Station, directly linked to spot is De Hems, steeped in Dutch Kitchen places GAA and rugby over shirts. Don’t miss Classic Football Wembley. A minute away, affordable Beer history, with Benelux beers and an God’s own game but fills for big finals. Shirts, a trove of archive treasure accommodation can be found at the Literally thousands of show TV orange glow when major tournaments in the Old Truman Brewery near Travelodge. football – and scores around Soho are on. Between Soho and the media Near Victoria station, Greenwood Shoreditch High Street Tube. SEGA- and the West End. Right on Leicester hub of Noho, tucked down an alley off puts televised sport first, as does the sponsored Arsenal tops, Inter ones Right alongside Stamford Bridge, Square, surrounded by gambling Newman Street, the Scando-themed nearby branch of the Londonwide as customised during the Ronaldo the Millennium & Copthorne Hotels action, the Carlsberg Sports Bar Nordic Bar is another sports haunt chain of the Sports Bar & Grill. The era and, perhaps for the visiting at Chelsea Football Club are two occupies a huge basement area of bound to go full Danish, Swedish or one by Marylebone station displays Scotland fan, that number 6 England adjoining four-stars offering match- the Casino at the Empire, with large Finnish for the Euros. Over in Covent Pelé’s signed shirt from Escape to shirt in Gareth Southgate grey, await day packages, plus dining and drinking screens and Danish beer on offer to Garden, convivial traditional pub in, Victory, with other branches located a loving torso.

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Wembley WEMBLEY

England’s national stadium, arguably football’s most iconic arena, was opened in 1923 and rebuilt, amid controversy, eight decades later. Wembley Stadium (wembleystadium.com), named after the surrounding district in London’s north-western outskirts, now sports a 134-metre high arch, the world’s largest single-span roof structure, visible for 13 miles away.

It was not quick in coming. Originally, the old Wembley – of the famous twin towers, the inaugural ‘White Horse’ Cup Final of 1923, the Matthews Final Shop of 1953, the World Cup Final of 1966 The Stadium Store by the East Ticket and no fewer than six European Cup Office on Level B1 of the North Stand. finals – was due to be demolished Stocking mainly England gear, it offers after Germany beat England there in DVDs of great Wembley finals and a October 2000. 1966 World Cup Memorabilia Pack with replicas of the final programme, After two years of bureaucratic and ticket and the Daily Express from the financial wrangling, demolition following day. eventually began in September 2002. sliding roof – Wembley came under fire the East Stand. G-H are for the North Wembley Central (Bakerloo, Spiralling costs caused delay after for its poor pitch, relaid several times. Stand, with its statue, overground rail), a 15min walk up Bars delay while cup finals were moved to Now, with the roof always open, the A and P for the South Stand. Level the High Road and left to White Halfway up Wembley Way on the Cardiff, and England matches were pitch is 97% real, 3% artificial. 2 (201-252), lined with upscale bars Horse Bridge and the stadium’s right-hand side, Boxpark Wembley is played around the country. Eventually, and restaurants, is allocated to Club south-west corner; and, the closest, a multi-venue complex, surrounding the relandscaped Wembley Way, The stadium comprises three levels, Wembley members. Level 1 (101-144) Wembley Stadium station (trains from one main bar with a huge screen for fronted by the imposing figure of with the cheapest seats (sectors is nearest the pitch. Marylebone). For the Bakerloo line to live action (not Wembley games during Bobby Moore, welcomed fans to the numbered 501-552) around top Level Wembley Central from Baker Street, Euro 2020), eateries and family-friendly 90,000-capacity new Wembley for the 3. South and North Stands contain the Transport allow 30mins for the journey. For the leisure activities. Open to non-guests, FA Cup final of 2007. dearest seats over the halfway line; Three stations serve Wembley: quicker Metropolitan line to Wembley the third floor of the Hilton Wembley the East and West Stands are behind Wembley Park (Jubilee and Park from Baker Street, allow 15mins. hotel is given over to the Icons Bar, Admired for its innovation – as well each goal. Entrances are lettered A-P Metropolitan lines), closest to the For the quickest, rail from Marylebone images of classic Wembley moments as the arch, the new arena featured a (no I), with J-N for the West Stand, B-F North Stand up Wembley Way; to Wembley Stadium, allow 10mins. on display.

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Amsterdam St James’s Gate AMSTERDAM

Forward-thinking and multicultural, Amsterdam is represented by a flagship club in its own image: Ajax. This successful school of footballing excellence is as global a brand as the three crosses of the city emblem. The famous thick red stripe of Ajax is a symbol of intelligent football played by young players nurtured or moulded at the club. convenience stores. A single journey Three waves of star teams have without the OV-chipkaart is €3. There made their mark in Europe and won are also cards for 24-hour (€7.50) and silverware. ’s Ajax of the 48-hour (€12.50) travel. 1990s heralded a new era, with the opening of the futuristic Amsterdam Bed ArenA, co-host of Euro 2000. In 2018, it Iamsterdam (iamsterdam.com) has was renamed the Johan Cruijff ArenA. a hotel database. Near the ArenA, on the Bijlmer ArenA station concourse, Bearings the Hampton by Hilton Amsterdam is For official guidelines concerning business-friendly, with a bar open to visiting Amsterdam for the all pre- and post-match. A short walk Euros, check this link: uefa.com/ from Overamstel station, the towering uefaeuro-2020/event-guide/ Mercure Hotel Amsterdam City has a amsterdam/stadium/. Amsterdam’s gym and sauna. Also near Overamstel above. Round the corner from Centraal, comfortable and affordable. Also nearby popular Aussie sports pub nearby, with Schiphol Airport is 9km (6 miles) is the mid-range Bastion Hotel the Grand Hotel Amrâth Amsterdam are the three-star NH Schiller and the 30 screens. Round the corner, Regular south-west of the city centre, Amsterdam/Amstel. offers five-star luxury in a beautiful old NH Carlton Amsterdam, built for the & Jack shows most games in a lively, connected by train (€4.30) to Centraal shipping house. For something more 1928 Olympics. up-for-it atmosphere. The Tara on station and Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA Hotels cluster around Centraal Station. individual, the WestCord Art Hotel nearby Rokin provide a nice pub feel (€3.90), both about 15mins away. There These include the Prins Hendrik, best Amsterdam near Museum Het Ship Beer with TV sport in focus. Further towards are shared or private taxis bookable known for its unfortunate footnote features original works by controversial Sports bars surround Rembrandtplein. the Red Light district, the Old Sailor on the airport website, prices starting in music history – here jazzster Chet artist/musician Herman Brood. These include the Satellite Sports Café is an age-old corner spot dotted with around €30. City transport consists of Baker jumped to his death. A plaque and St James’s Gate, along with pubs TV screens for football watching. The buses, trams, light rail/metro lines and marks his memory. Nearby, the Hotel Close to Rembrandtplein, hotels allow such as the Three Sisters, the Old Bell, Heineken Experience has its own brew ferries, accessed by the national OV- Internationaal features a 90-year-old for easy barhopping. The Hotel Atlanta Hoopman, and, in the same family, the pub, behind which O’Donnell’s goes big chipkaart (€7.50) from machines and bar at street level and affordable rooms above the St James’s Gate pub is Hole in the Wall. Coco’s Outback is a on live sport.

liberoguide.com 9 EUROS 2020 Johan Cruijff ArenA www.liberoguide.com/ajax-amsterdam

although considerably reduced for Euro JOHAN CRUIJFF ARENA 2020. Certainly the 5,000 lucky enough to attend a game here in March 2021, Holland’s 2-0 win over Latvia, a year or more into lockdown, seemed to enjoy the novelty.

Transport Metro line 54 runs to Station Biljmer ArenA from Centraal, direction Gein. Allow 15 mins. The previous stop of Strandvliet is also reasonably close and more convenient for the Noord end.

The station is on a direct train line from Schiphol Airport, journey time 15 mins. seen doing the Mexican wave as Ajax succumbed 3-0 to in the curtain- Shops raiser. The stadium went on to stage five On the west side of the main entrance games at Euro 2000, including a semi- of the ArenA, the Ajax Fanshop final, with four lined up for Euro 2020, at proffers classic white/red combination least three games involving Holland. For shirts, along with away tops of black the national side, the Oranje, this is as with gold shoulders. ArenA close as they have to a home, although in is said to Bars his mother was a cleaner and his Amsterdam’s first metro line, the site generate more passion. Ajax fans, too, At the main entrance to the stadium, Johan Cruijff stepfather a groundsman, his old ticked many boxes, underlining the had to adapt to their new surroundings, chain venue FEBO has a , two house at No.32 now displaying a mural trend towards encouraging supporters the notorious F-Side first spread around TV screens inside and live music laid ArenA of the star he became. Even when to leave their cars at home and take the ground before being allowed to on before and after matches. Nearby playing marquee fixtures at the Olympic public transport. Another plus was Euro gather in the eerste Zuid-ring, sectors is a popular nameless bar by gate Home of recent and record Dutch Stadium, Ajax, thanks to Cruyff a major 2020 – Holland and Belgium were to 126-128, behind the south goal. At the Zuid G – look out for the Grolsch and champions Ajax, the Johan Cruijff European force, needed something co-host, confirmed in 1995, but in the opposing Noord (A-C, K), away fans Guinness signs. Grolsch is also the ArenA (johancruijffarena.nl.home) is bigger. air when the new stadium project was are usually allocated sectors 416 and attraction at the Grand Café 3 & 20 on named after their greatest player, his set in motion in 1993. 417 through gate K in the north-west De Passage. Those being wined and number forever 14, his surname often The solution was Bijlmer. An area corner. The Ajax Fanshop is found at dined in the corporate zone can look anglicised to Cruyff. He grew alongside earmarked for urban renewal in Three years later and the equivalent of the main entrance, Hoofdingang (gates forward to the Maison van den Boer’s De Meer, the legendary ground where Amsterdam-Zuidoost, served by €140 million later, Queen Beatrix was D-F). Capacity is just shy of 55,000, cuisine in the Brasserie Ajax.

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Baku BAKU

Baku, capital of -rich , has emerged from its obscure status as a football footnote. Chosen to co- host Euro 2020, Baku was quick to build the 68,000-capacity Olympic Stadium. It then successfully staged the 2019 Europa League Final between Arsenal and Chelsea.

Baku first witnessed major European club football in 2017. Prodigal residents Qarabağ became the first Azeri club to qualify for the Champions League. Representing the war zone of Nagorno-Karabakh, Qarabağ were forced to relocate to Baku in the 1990s. First based at the former national stadium named after JW Marriott Absheron Tofik Bakhramov, the linesman of 1966 fame, Qarabağ later built the Azersun Arena north-east of town. neighbouring Hairy Lemon and memorabilia-filledHops Pub Baku on Bearings Içerisheher. Journey time to 28 Maya Bed has its own pub/restaurant with a Tarlan Aliyarbayov. Also recommended For official guidelines concerning is 30-45mins. The bus operates on Nearest to the Olympic Stadium, the large-screen TV and billiard room. are the Compass West pub and the visiting Baku for the Euros, check the same Baku Card System as the four-star Avenue Hotel Baku is two excellent Tortuga, closer to Fountains this link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/ metro. At the airport, tickets cost bus stops by the ASK Arena. All the Bars Square. The Red Lion Pub on Bulbul event-guide/baku/stadium/. Baku 1.50AZN/€0.75 from the kiosk near main chains are found in town. These Local Khirdalan beer, Turkish Efes and Avenue was particularly busy in the Heydar Aliyev International Airport the exit of Terminal 1, cash only, in include the Hilton by the seafront, the pool tables are main features around build-up to the Europa League final is 20km (12 miles) north-east of small denominations. In town, the Fairmont near the and the main bar hub, near Fountains while the London Pub and Top Beer the city centre. The Aero Express Baku Card is 2AZN/€1 (each journey the Park Inn near the train station. A Square, where the streets of Alizade on Yusif Mammadaliyev are quieter bus leaves every 30min for metro 0.20AZN/€0.10), available from couple of blocks from the Hilton on and Tarlan Aliyarbayov intersect. options. Further up, on the corner of station 28 Maya, where the red and machines at stations. A taxi from the focal Azadliq Square, the JW Marriott There you’ll find long-established Mardanov and Bashir Seferoglu Kücesi, green lines meet. From there, it’s airport to town should cost around Absheron exudes luxury, with a Finnegans and Shakespeare, with TV Koleso is another screen-equipped an easy hop to the Olympic Stadium 25AZN/€12.50), half that to the panoramic pool, spa and gym. To stay football. Corner bar Otto is another hostelry, with Stara Praga beer on tap. at Koroglu, downtown seafront Olympic Stadium. To phone one, call in the centrally located bar quarter, the old favourite. Other expat-friendly Just over the road, the Sport Pub Beer Sahil and the Old Town stop of 189 Taxi (+994 12 565 31 89). Du Port Hotel on Yusif Mammadaliyev options include Shamrock and the Dad ticks most boxes.

liberoguide.com 11 EUROS 2020 Baku Olympic Stadium www.liberoguide.com/baku-olympic-stadium

crossing point of 28 May, five on the OLYMPIC BAKU STADIUM red from central Sahil.

Allow 20 minutes from town. Koroglu station is a 10-15min walk to the stadium, approaching the south-west exit. Several bus lines, including Nos.1 and 13, serve the nearest stop of Milli (‘National’) Stadion, but unless you’re staying at a hotel en route, it’s hardly worth the hassle.

A taxi from the city centre should cost around 12AZN/€6 but make sure the meter is running and/or agree a price beforehand. The traffic will be heavy Baku Olympic heading to the match and atrocious coming back, so, again, metro might Stadium be best. Given the three-hour time difference with the UK, two-hour with Opened in 2015, the Baku Olympic CET, matches here have earlier kick- Stadium (Bakı Olimpiya Stadionu, bos. offs, and transport should still be az/en) personifies the oil-rich capital running after the final whistle. of Azerbaijan, determined to claim its place on the world stage by hosting Bars prestigious global events. The Europa Metres from Koroglu metro station, the League final of 2019 is the most MAF Lounge is the best option close recent, an easy win for Chelsea over to the Olympic Stadium. An outdoor Arsenal in a stadium only two-thirds of the inaugural European Games of The 68,000-capacity arena is set way Here, they have welcomed the likes terrace, reasonably cheap beer full nearly 5,000km from London. 2015, the Olympic Stadium covers an north-east of town, by the shores of of Roma, Atlético and Sevilla, including local brews, a large indoor Here, Wales, Turkey and Switzerland extensive site – three times the size Lake Boyukshor. Nearby stands the along with Chelsea and Arsenal, who space with shisha pipes and plenty play each other in Group A, with a of Baku’s historic Old Town – and ASK Arena, home of top-flight side then returned for that final a long, of screens for sport attract plentiful quarter-final to follow on 3 July. rises six storeys high. Laid out in Keşla. long way from London. footfall pre-match, but it’s also a good three tiers, the stadium loops around option for a post-match bite while the The fact that Baku’s once modest a with a fair distance Qarabağ, the club from the war-torn Transport crowds disperse. Alongside, the Metro metro network now extends this far between those in the highest ring region of Nagorno-Karabakh that The quickest way to reach the café is a much simpler option with out of town is indicative of the speed and the action. required moved to the Azeri capital in the stadium is by metro. Koroglu station sensational shawarma and basic street of urban development of the city, four years and the best part of €700 early 1990s, now call the national is on both the red and the green food. Beers fill the fridge but there’s today a vast ex-Soviet sprawl. Host million. stadium home for prestige fixtures. lines, four stops from the main less of a bar/pub atmosphere.

liberoguide.com 12 EUROS 2020 Bucharest www.liberoguide.com/bucharest

Bucharest BUCHAREST

Co-hosting Euro 2020, stage for the Europa League Final in 2012, Bucharest has gained a wider profile thanks to the National Arena, opened in 2011. This is the new face of the Romanian capital: a modern, EU metropolis still emerging from a dark past.

Since 2015, the stadium has also been the home ground of the country’s most decorated club, Steaua Bucharest, officially known as FCSB. Further up, the Athenee Palace, now European Cup winners in 1986, Steaua a Hilton, was the ornate haunt of spies were the first club from the Eastern either side of the war. bloc to attain such heights. Able to attract the best Romanian talent, Beer most notably Gheorghe Hagi, Steaua A Bermuda Triangle of streets in were dominant but relinquished the the historic centre – Strada Șelari, role after Hagi left for Real Madrid Covaci and Gabroveni – is where you and the Communist system that held find three dozen drinking spots at them in place collapsed. least. The most football-focused are Halftime, framed Liverpool shirts Bearings displayed around a host of plasma For official guidelines concerning screens, and Mojo, another LFC haunt visiting Bucharest for the Euros, check Victoriei/Piața Unirii, the No.784 to lei/€1.65 for a day pass on bus, trams de Nord, handy for the airport and next door, with equal emphasis on this link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/ Piața Unirii, every 30min-1hr. Journey and trolleybuses. Across town by most stadiums, Hello on Calea Griviței live music. Also on Gabroveni, Beer event-guide/bucharest/stadium/. time 30-45mins. For taxis, use the taxi should be 10-15 lei/€2-€3. Taxi serves the budget traveller perfectly. O’Clock lines its counter with craft Henri Coandă airport, aka Otopeni, is touch screens in Arrivals – you receive Mondial (+40 21 9423) are based near Opposite, the Euro Hotels Gara de options. The Boulevard Pub and Fire 17km (11 miles) north-west of town. a number, waiting time and a ticket the National Arena. Nord is more downbeat. Global chains Club on Covaci offer live TV sports. A signposted door from the Arrivals to give to the driver. Expect to pay in town include the InterContinental, The Drunken Lords on Șelari knows terminal leads to the bus stops for 40-50 lei/€8-€10 for town. In town, Bed with its panoramic gym and pool how to party. Across main Bulevardul town, a ticket office to the right. Two from Gara de Nord to the airport, The only hotel near the National by Universitate metro station, the Brătianu, Légère on Piața Rosetti trips are 8.60 lei/€1.80 (cash-only). the bus stop is near Hotels Sir and Arena is the Holiday Inn-Times, palatial Marriott with its high-end attracts a mainly Romanian crowd The No.780 runs to main train station Andy. For the metro network, it’s 5 behind Piața Muncii metro station on spa, and the four-star Novotel with with TV football, great beer and a nice Gara de Nord, the No.783 to Piața lei/€1 for 2 rides, 20 lei/€4 for 10, 8 Bulevardul Decebal. Around the Gara its gleaming façade on Calea Victoriei. courtyard.

liberoguide.com 13 EUROS 2020 National Arena www.liberoguide.com/national-arena

September 2011, the National Arena Bars NATIONAL ARENA hasn’t yet been filled to capacity – not Options line Bulevardul Besarabia, even for the visit of Eastern European the best being Burgarescu (No.80), royalty, , in 2013. where Carlsberg, Staropramen and Steaua Bucharest’s decision to play local Bucur beers are served on a European fixtures here in 2013-14 sun-catching terrace with a TV, and, changed the stadium’s status from on the Arena side, the Berăria Park events arena to home ground – a role (No.37-39), a large beer garden extended when Steaua moved all done out in Tuborg green. Signature their games here from 2015. Dinamo beer cocktails (21 lei/€4.30) come should follow suit in 2021. Each major with white rum and grilled platters club is involved in rebuilding its own (99/179 lei/€20/€37) can be shared stadium, though deadlines are being between several hungry people. Just pushed further and further back. past the stadium, Champions serves its purpose perfectly, TV screens The two-tiered National Arena is inside and out, and a pictorial history divided into two Peluzele (Nord of Romanian sport on the walls. I and Sud II) behind each goal, Alongside, Bistro 37-39 has been in Tribuna I (Vest) and II (Est) on the place for many years, a restaurant sidelines. Tram-lined Bulevardul specialising in grilled meat, Besarabia gives access to Peluza II televisions spread around the neat Sud, Bulevardul Pierre de Coubertin interior and leafy garden courtyard so to Peluza I Nord. For international you don’t miss any match action. fixtures, away fans are allocated sectors 124, 126, 355, 356, 357 and 358, through Gate H.

Transport National Arena speak to the masses on May Day – and, longer fit for modern purpose, the old The stadium is a 15min walk up of course, on August 23. stadium last saw the national team Bulevardul Besarabia from Piața Selected to co-host Euro 2020, venue play here in 2007. Muncii on yellow metro line M1. If for the Europa League Final of 2012, Crowds of 80,000 and 90,000 you’re arriving directly from Gara de the National Arena was opened in 2011 witnessed major internationals here, Over three years, and at a cost Nord, turn right out of the carriage in place of the old National Stadium. such as ’s 2-1 defeat of of €230 million-plus, a five-star, and up the stairs. Exit left towards Built in 1953 and first named in honour England in 1980. The stadium was 55,600-capacity arena was built, for the tall white building if you’re taking of the Romanian uprising against later renamed after Romanian discus football matches and concerts. The tram Nos.40 and 56 from the metro Nazi rule on August 23, 1944, this thrower Lia Manoliu, actually from retractable roof was an expensive station, two stops to Arena Națională. classic Communist arena was where Chișinău, Moldova, later President of afterthought. Bizarrely, since opening You’ll see the stadium on the left as Ceaușescu and the party bosses would the Romanian Olympic Committee. No for a Euro qualifier against France in you arrive.

liberoguide.com 14 EUROS 2020 Budapest www.liberoguide.com/budapest

Budapest BUDAPEST

A traditional football capital, Budapest is regaining its old pomp thanks to new stadiums replacing famous old ones, most notably the national Puskás Aréna, the former Népstadion. At club level, an appearance by Ferencváros in 6:3 the Champions League in 2020 has raised hopes of a new era. Their old ground at Üllői út was knocked down in 2013, Chelsea the visitors when the new Groupama Aréna opened on the same site. In 2015, it was the scene of celebrations when Hungary beat to qualify for Euro 2016, their first major finals for 30 years. By then, the last touches were being added to the Puskás Aréna, due to co-host the Euros, a major first for Budapest.

Bearings and Winners offer big-screen action. For official guidelines concerning Also nearby, the Stifler and Pointer Pub visiting Budapest for the Euros, check chains have several burger-and-soccer this link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/ be stamped (single Ft350/€1, ten by, the long-established Hungaria Bars sports bars, on and off the Nagykörút. event-guide/budapest/stadium/. Ft3,000/€8.60, from machines, credit City Center has nearly 500 rooms Budapest is a great bar city. District Near Boráros tér, the 6:3 takes its Budapest’s Liszt Ferenc Airport is cards accepted). and suites. Budapest is renowned for VII, between the Great Synagogue and name from the scoreline when Hungary 16km (ten miles) south-east of its spas and spa hotels – the Gellért Klauzál tér, is the nightlife hub. Within beat England in 1953. Its former owner town. From outside Arrivals, No.100E Bed on the square of the same name is it, the Gozsdu udvar passageway is was hat-trick hero Nándor Hidegkuti, bus leaves every 15-30min for central Alongside the metro station for the the most famous. On the same Buda lined with venues. Nearby football- the bar taken over in 2018 by expat Deák tér (Ft900/€2.60, journey time Puskás Aréna, the four-star Danubius bank, Lánchíd 19 is a classy design focused bars include Champs on football fans, keen on preserving its 45mins). A kiosk dispatches Főtaxi Hotel Arena has a pool, gym and hotel whose best rooms overlook the Dohány utca, decorated with line heritage. Across the Danube, named (+36 1 222 2 222) services into town spa. Across from Keleti station, still Chain Bridge. Five-star hotels tower drawings of Magyar Olympian heroes after the Chain Bridge it stands near, (Ft8,000/€23). The BKK transport walking distance to the stadium, the over the city’s retail hub, including the since 1896 – it also runs a summer the Buda-side Lánchíd Söröző at Fő network consists of four metro Royal Park Boutique Hotel is a handy Ritz-Carlton and Kempinski. Near the terrace sports bar on Margaret Island. utca 4 is a homely, retro-themed bar/ lines, buses, trams and trolleybuses. mid-range choice while Baross City Opera House, the Hilton Garden Inn Where Dob utca meets the tram-lined restaurant with old Who videos in one Each journey requires a ticket to offers standard convenience. Close has a rooftop space. ring road, the Nagykörút, Ziccer, Score room, TV football in another.

liberoguide.com 15 EUROS 2020 Puskás Aréna www.liberoguide.com/puskas-arena

Visitor Centre ARÉNA PUSKÁS In 2018, a first-floor Visitor Centre (Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, free admission) opened by the metro station, shows a history of the stadium and provides an immersive drone view of construction. You can replay the 7-1 game of 1954 using the popular Hungarian version of football-tiddlywinks, gombfoci, with players’ portraits on each counter.

Bars Walking up from Keleti, the Stadion Söröző is a popular pre-match spot Puskás Aréna where Thököly meets Dózsa György út. On the other side of the arena by the The Puskás Aréna (facebook.com/ No.1 tram stop, Stefano is both a cosy puskasarena) is the second iteration football bar and pizzeria, rare scarves of Hungary’s national stadium. and pennants decorating a cabin-like The first and most iconic, the interior. Opt for a classic Hungarian Népstadion (‘People’s Stadium’) dish if you’re dining. Around the corner, not only hosted the great stars of the Félidő (‘Half-Time’) Söröző is a the early 1950s, they helped build it basic pre-match choice. – motivational photos show Puskás and co lugging wheelbarrows full Nearby, the other side of the of bricks with hundreds of other Stadion bus station, smarter Ypsilon volunteers. The stadium opened on had meanwhile been reduced to a possible, a steel mesh replicating there was the dramatic matter of (‘Y’) provides a lovely terrace and Hungary’s national day, August 20, UEFA-advised 35,000-seater. its monolithic exterior. Three tiers Hungary’s qualification for Euro Bitburger beer. Further down Stefánia in 1953, with an of seats ring the pitch in intimate 2020, a wonder goal from Dominik út at No.29, another terrace awaits between Honvéd and Spartak. Three failed bids to co-host the fashion. Szoboszlai in stoppage time against at the timeless Tücsök Sörkert, with Nine months later, many of the Euros did little to release funds Iceland taking the Magyars through to an interior of vintage Hungarian Hungarian players trounced England for a new national stadium, until The basic cost? Ft142.85 billion, €400 the finals for which this very stadium advertising posters and a beer garden here, 7-1. the government gave the green million-plus. After the curtain-raiser was built. as promised in the name. light in 2013. The old stadium of Hungary-Uruguay in November Half a century later, shortly before was demolished in 2016, the new 2019, the Puskás Aréna staged the Transport Close to the stadium at the his death, the stadium took Puskás’ 67,000-capacity Puskás Aréna built 2020 Hungarian Cup Final, the UEFA The stadium has its own stop, Puskás neighbouring SYMA events centre, name. An arena created in Socialist- between 2017-19. Architect György Super Cup and European fixtures Ferenc Stadion, on the red M2 metro past the security barrier on Dózsa Realist style holding 100,000, proudly Skardelli has managed to echo as involving the likes of Manchester City, line, one up from Keleti station, and György út, Planet Sport is a basic bar/ decked out in red, white and green, much of the original stadium as Liverpool and Tottenham. In between, on tramline No.1. restaurant with a first-floor terrace.

liberoguide.com 16 EUROS 2020 Copenhagen www.liberoguide.com/copenhagen

Copenhagen COPENHAGEN

The status of Copenhagen as an international venue – co-host of Euro 2020, stage for two European club finals, both involving Arsenal – is aided by the proximity of the somewhat functional national stadium, Parken, to the city centre. Add its lively bars, lashings of Carlsberg and excellent transport connections, and the Danish capital can be considered one of the best, if priciest, destinations to travel with your team.

Thanks to the regular progress of flagship club and 2019 champions FC Copenhagen (FCK), who Parken with the national side, it’s a journey that fans of Leicester, Ajax and Atlético Madrid have made in recent seasons.. buses and trains is accessed with a by some 20 hotels from high-end to Beer Bearings rejsekort smartcard. Anonymous hostel. Down Colbjørnsensgade you’ll City of Carlsberg, Copenhagen is a For official guidelines concerning cards are available from machines at find the affordable hotel/hostel hybrid real drinking town. Strolling out of visiting Copenhagen for the Copenhagen Airport, Central Station Urban House by MEININGER, the Central Station, you immediately find fraternity. For something unique, Euros, check this link: uefa.com/ and metro stations. A one-day City mid-range Good Morning Copenhagen the tourist-friendly Biergarten the wonderful Jernbanecafeen, the uefaeuro-2020/event-guide/ Pass (main zones, 80Dkr) is also valid Star and the eco-friendly Axel and a row of football-focused pubs ‘Railroad Pub’ beside Central Station copenhagen/stadium/. from the airport. There’s a 48hr pass Guldsmeden, with a rooftop terrace along Vesterbrogade: The Old English on Reventlowsgade, has been pulling for 150Dkr, 72hr for 200Dkr, and so on. and a hot tub. Closer to Tivoli on Pub, Rosie McGee’s, The Scottish Pub pints for 86 years to regulars and Copenhagen Airport is 8km (five Bernstorffsgade, the Copenhagen and The Irish Pub. Round the corner travellers in a homely, train-themed miles) south-east of the city, connected Bed Plaza dates back to 1913 and Nimb on Jernbanegade, the Shamrock Inn atmosphere. On the other side of the by regular metro to Nørreport (15 Visit Copenhagen (visitcopenhagen. attracts high-paying guests with its also offers pool and table football. Also station, bars line trendy Halmtorvet. mins, 36Dkr) or rail to Central Station com) has a comprehensive hotel pool, spa and Nordic-meets-East close, Pub & Sport on Vester Voldgade Among them, Bodega 54 plays up its St (15 mins, 36Dkr), both from terminal 3. database. The Rye115, the closest to design. Around the main square of is a dependable choice to watch the Pauli credentials by showing all games A taxi (+45 35 35 35 35) to town should Parken, is family-run B&B down the Rådhuspladsen, the Scandic Palace match. On narrow Lille Kannikestraede, from the Millerntor, filling the fridge cost around 250Dkr. The transport quiet Ryesgade ten minutes from the has been the most sought-after hotel lively Den Glade Gris is the meeting with bottles of Astra from and network of a two-line, 24-hour metro, stadium. Central Station is surrounded in town since opening in 1910. point for Copenhagen’s Man United blaring out Peel-era tunes all night.

liberoguide.com 17 EUROS 2020 Parken www.liberoguide.com/parken

Parken PARKEN

A 38,000-seater, the Telia Parken is the venue for Denmark’s qualifying fixtures, the home ground of FC Copenhagen (FCK), who own the place, and a co-host of Euro 2020. You couldn’t call Parken a beautiful ground, neither inside nor out. Its three, two- tiered stands were built on a tight budget in 1992 and has a no-frills feel to it, not helped by the office towers in the corners and an ugly stand behind one goal added in 2009. With dwindling attendances for FCK and Denmark games, it can seem somewhat oversized. As a consequence, most Denmark friendlies are now played at smaller grounds. The atmosphere tends to suffer when it’s another day at the office, but come to Parken on a is underserved by buses. Get the everywhere. Across the square from the stadium side of Østerbrogade, European night, under , and metro from Rådhuspladsen or Central Triangeln metro station, Halifax behind the statue of legendary radio the B Tribune should be rocking. Station to Trianglen or Vibenshus provides fine burgers. There are commentator Gunnar Nu Hansen, Runddel, the two stations at either more meaty offerings a few doors the Kafe Kapers offers standard For FCK and Denmark games, older end of Øster Allé, each a five-minute down, at Østerbros Originale Danish draught beers and a large fans occupy the Nedre (Lower) C walk from Parken. A word to the Burgerrestaurant, at the corner of terrace, ideal for summer. If too Tribune, more boisterous younger wise: Vibenshus Runddel is less Odensegade. Along Østerbrogade, pricy, Kim’s Pølser will sort out ones the Nedre B, the Øvre (Upper) used – avoid queues and full trains at opposite the grandiose main entrance a classic hotdog from a little van. B for bigger games. D Tribune is Trianglen by getting on the clockwise to Østerbro Stadion, the Park Pub is Further down Serridslevvej, by divided between families and visiting train into town (via Østerport) from functional yet extremely popular pre- Østerbro Stadion, the Copenhagen supporters. For Denmark games, the there after the match. match bar with plenty of TV football Diner & Steakhouse goes to town standing, singing Red Wall is set up in action. Nearby, on the church square on big-match nights, with grills set the Lower B. Bars of Sankt Jacob Plads, the PS Bar up outside. On the other side of the Parken’s central location and the & Grill is a nice mix of restaurant ground, near the FCK Fanshop, the Younger FCK fans gather at Central Transport residential, moneyed nature of and pub, where you can plot up at Eventyr kiosk has been selling ice Park, at the corner of the B and C Copenhagen’s metro circle line, the surrounding Østerbro mean that the bar and order a Yakima IPA or creams to locals since 1923 – Tuborg stands. Expect football anthems at M3, is ideal for match days, as Parken there are bars and restaurants Tuborg Classic on draught. Back on too, particularly on match days. full blast.

liberoguide.com 18 EUROS 2020 Glasgow www.liberoguide.com/glasgow

Bed GLASGOW People Make Glasgow (peoplemakeglasgow.com) has a hotel database. Near Hampden Park, the four-star Number 10 Hotel near Crosshill station offers special packages around match days. At Glasgow Central, the four-star Grand Central is the definitive railway hotel, with a host of famous past guests. On the same side of the station, the quality Radisson Blu has a pool and sauna. Towards the river, Jurys Inn Glasgow comprises 300-plus comfortable rooms. By focal , the Z Hotel is central and affordable, the Millennium elegant and reasonably priced, Native Glasgow as opulent as one of the ocean liners built on the Clyde.

Beer Glasgow and pubs are synonymous. Of the hundreds that show football, Glasgow the most famous is the Horseshoe Bar, by Glasgow Central, big on live Scotland’s football hotbed is the home sport. Around George Square, The of its national stadium, Hampden Glasgow was also where international Bearings the city in Ayrshire, the only spot Auctioneers shows games in HD in Park, and the of Celtic and football first started. The first match For official guidelines concerning on British soil that Elvis Presley smart pub surroundings, The Ark in Rangers, where every league title has between Scotland and England was visiting Glasgow for the Euros, graced. Central Glasgow is easily a funky interior with a beer garden gone since 1985. played on St Andrew’s Day 1872, at check this link: uefa.com/ walkable. The city is served by one attached. Nearby, the trendy Merchant the West of Scotland Cricket Club, uefaeuro-2020/event-guide/ Subway line, overland rail and a City is where you find buzzy destinations It has also witnessed a number of Hamilton (or West Hamilton) Terrace. glasgow/stadium/. network of buses. Main local firm such as Committee Room No.9, live notable moments in European football The cricket club is still there, but now is 11km (7 miles) west of the city. First Bus Glasgow has a FirstDay sport shown amid stripped wood, history, such as a sublime display on Peel Street, a short walk from The No.500 (£6 single, £8 with pass for £4.70. The Roundabout day BrewDog, the local branch of the global by Real Madrid in 1960 and Zinedine Partick subway/rail. This story is told further bus travel) is one of several ticket (£7.40) from Scotrail is valid Aberdeen craft-beer chain, and the Zidane’s stunning goal for the same at The Stumps pub (7 Peel Street) buses to run into town. A taxi would for Subway and train services after outstanding McChuills on High Street. club in 2002. These were both finals nearby, where illustrated background take around 20 minutes and cost 9am weekdays, all day weekends. Games are shown on a big screen, live of Europe’s premier trophy – in 2021 on that historic day is presented at a £20. Some airlines use Prestwick Glasgow Taxis (0141 429 7070) are music is staged and craft beers are Hampden co-hosts Euro 2020. chatty neighbourhood local. Airport, 51km (32 miles) from plentiful and reliable. downed by a lively crowd.

liberoguide.com 19 EUROS 2020 Hampden Park www.liberoguide.com/hampden-park HAMPDEN PARK Hampden Park

Hampden Park (hampdenpark.co.uk) is the home of Scotland and, until recently, venerable Queen’s Park. Although it has held well over 100,000 spectators, such as for the seminal European Cup final between Real Madrid and Eintracht in 1960, Hampden has a current capacity of 52,000.

Built by the Queen’s Park club in 1903, the stadium is set in , south Glasgow, near the rail station of the same name. Fittingly, Glaswegian engineer was the brains behind its construction. For half a century, Hampden Park was the world’s largest football ground, famous for its fiery encounters between Scotland and England. One particular match, in April 1937, attracted 149,400 spectators – the all-time record for any all-time European record between gave another memorable display Transport game in Europe. The famous Hampden clubs), Hampden was beginning to of footballing brilliance here in the The easiest way to reach Hampden is Roar, a thundering, communal din, was lose its sheen. Saint-Étienne fans well Champions League Final against Bayer to take the outer circle rail line from said to audible a mile away. It put the remember the square crossbar that Leverkusen in 2002. Glasgow Central to Mount Florida. fear of God into any opposition, ideally thwarted two efforts against Bayern From there it’s a ten-minute walk up those in England shirts. Munich in the 1976 European Cup Final, The arena is divided simply into stands Somerville Drive. now found in the club museum. named after the points of the compass: walk from the stadium, this age-old It wasn’t just about noise or numbers: the two-tiered main South one features Bars landmark displays classic Scotland the 1960 European Cup Final is A €4.5million refurbishment in the early Astroturf warm-up areas, six dressing Many Scotland fans convene in pubs memorabilia, including photo line-ups best known for the fine football of 1980s reduced capacity to just over rooms, a sports injury clinic and 126 along Victoria Road, nearer to Queen’s from 1880 and 1929, and shots of a Real Madrid in the last of their five 74,000. The second phase of renovation executive boxes. Its glass-fronted floors Park station, such as the traditional relaxed Denis Law in training. Within consecutive European Cup wins, a (one which nearly bankrupted the also contain the excellent Scottish Queen’s Park Café (No.530), in a short walk of Hampden on Cathcart 7-3 masterclass against Eintracht Scottish FA, whose headquarters are Football Museum. Alongside, Lesser business since 1898. A great pub Road, the Clockwork Beer Company Frankfurt. By the time the European situated here) was completed in time Hampden has just been revamped and option in the Queen’s Park vicinity is welcomes fans without colours with TV Cup semi-final of 1970 between Celtic for the final of 1999. Real is now being used by Queen’s Park for Hampden (58 Albert Road). Occupying sports, a full menu and microbrewed and Leeds was drawing 136,505 (the Madrid, in particular , first-team games. a quiet street corner some 10min beers.

liberoguide.com 20 EUROS 2020 Munich www.liberoguide.com/munich

the same U6 line near Nordfriedhof, upscale Munich Marriott features the MUNICH Champions Sports Bar. Closer to the same U-Bahn station, stablemates Pullman Munich and ibis Munich City North cater to business and budget traveller alike. Near the station, the Jedermann is affordable and family- run, while closer still, Le Méridien Munich and Sofitel offer a sauna, pool and gym. Built into the station itself, German chain InterCity caters to rail travellers with neat, functional rooms and a free pass for public transport. Bearings For official guidelines concerning Beer visiting Munich for the Euros, check Munich is a beer capital, its historic this link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/ city-centre hostelries including event-guide/munich/stadium/. Munich the Hofbräuhaus and Augustiner. Augustiner Airport is 28km (18 miles) north-east In party-focused Schwabing, the of town, connected by S-Bahn lines Vereinsheim on Occamstraße popular 1860. The city rivals first S1 and S8 that take different routes to combines a classic German Kneipe Munich groundshared the Grünwalder the central stops of and with a retro football bar – note Stadion, then the , the Hauptbahnhof main station about the 1974 iconography. Nearby on Munich is synonymous with nine- then the Allianz, before ‘Sechzig’ 40-45mins away. Tickets are €10 Trautenwolfstraße, the Shamrock in-a-row German champions moved back to their first home. With single, €11 for a day pass. A day pass was one of the city’s first expat pubs Bayern, whose home is the Allianz working-class roots class around on the transport network of U-Bahn, – by focal Marienplatz you’ll find Ned Arena. Opened a year before the 2006 Giesing, TSV were the favoured club of S-Bahn, trams and buses is €5.60, Kelly’s and Kilians next door. Stadion World Cup it would co-host, it was the 1940s. Their fan base in bohemian a single €2.50. A taxi (+49 89 19410) on Schleißheimer Straße recreates built to replace the Olympiastadion, Schwabing, and under Jewish from the airport to town should cost the match-day experience, screens, where ’s West management, Bayern were forced to about €60, €40-€45 to the Allianz- scarves and shirts everywhere. Germany beat Holland 2-1 to win adopt amateur status. It took them 20 Arena en route. the 1974 World Cup. The triumph years to recover. Given the sad closure of the legendary Sport-Café Schiller RIP bookended a golden decade for the Bed Sport-Café Schiller on Schillerstraße, player, the club team he joined as a Locally born Beckenbauer and his Near Kieferngarten U-Bahn stop, the main football bar by the station teenager and the county he captained. illustrious teammates changed all staged the Champions League Final one down from Fröttmaning and is Fan Arena, in a passageway that. As captain, coach and organising of 2012, in which Chelsea overcame the Allianz, the Hotel Arena Stadt off Arnulfstraße. Classic Bayern Before promotion in 1965, Bayern chairman, he thrice brought the World Bayern on penalties, and now München is a pleasant lodging 20 memorabilia from the owner’s were overshadowed by the more Cup to Germany. The Allianz later Germany’s group games at Euro 2020. minutes’ walk from the stadium. On personal collection is on display.

liberoguide.com 21 EUROS 2020 Allianz Arena www.liberoguide.com/allianz-arena

Allianz Arena ALLIANZ ARENA

In contrast to the Olympiastadion, erected for the 1972 Games, and once groundshared by city rivals Bayern Munich and TSV 1860, the Allianz Arena (allianz-arena.com/en) was custom-built for soccer. ‘A true football stadium at last’, as Franz Beckenbauer said. Capable of accommodating 75,000 but giving everyone a taste of the action – many can smell the turf from their seat – the Allianz pioneered the multi-coloured glowing exterior, created from 2,874 EFTE plastic panels. A ring of bright red beckons Bayern fans on match days, the blue of TSV long gone after the cash-strapped club sold their half of the ownership to all-conquering Bayern.

Die Roten don’t always have it all their own way, however – it was here that Bastien Schweinsteiger’s penalty hit 247), and Oberrang (301-348). For should then take 10mins or change Bars the post in the 2012 Champions League Bayern games, away fans are allocated for bus No.233 to U6 Studentenstadt According to the team that takes care Final, and Chelsea lifted the trophy. upper blocks 340-347 in the top half of (10min journey time), three stops from of catering at the Allianz, on any given The Allianz also staged six matches the Nordkurve, with additional seats Fröttmaning. match day 40,000 beers and 20,000 football history – a close-up of Helmut at the 2006 World Cup, including the available should demand require in bratwursts are devoured. There’s a Rahn’s boot or the lace-up collars of opening game and semi-final, and will middle block 242 just below. Shop fans’ bar at each end, the third-level the pre-Beckenbauer national shirt host four for Euro 2020. Euro2024 will The FC Bayern Fan-Shop on level 2 Paulaner Fantreff Nord by staircase – the Arena Bistro in the Südkurve is be the next major tournament here. Transport by staircase H on the east side of the M done out with flat-screen TVs. Eight open daily (10am-6pm) for affordable The stadium is a ten-minute, well stadium is one of nine (!) in Munich types of Munich’s own Paulaner are on pizzas and pastas and the same range Capacity for internationals is 70,000, signposted walk from Fröttmaning and 14 across Germany. Look out for offer, two on draught (Münchner Hell of Paulaner beer. Payment is by credit the standing places in blocks 112 and U-Bahn station on the U6 line, souvenirs related to the club’s recent and Hefe-Weißbier), two alcohol-free card only. For a quick drink before you 113 in the Bayern end, the Südkurve, direct from central Marienplatz ninth straight win – and and one alcohol-light. Food includes set off, Champions in the Marriott Hotel removed. The stadium comprises 11 stops/15mins away. From the ‘Danke Hansi’ coffee mugs, related Bratwurst, Schnitzels and Leberkäse, is awash with TV screens and 5mins’ three steeply rising tiers: Unterrang airport, the S8 takes you direct to to the outgoing coach now joining the meatloaf.Done out with tasteful, black- walk from Nordfriedhof U-Bahn, five (sectors 101-136); Mittelrang (201- Unterföhring in 15mins. A taxi (€15) German national team. and-white images depicting German stops from Fröttmaning.

liberoguide.com 22 EUROS 2020 Rome www.liberoguide.com/rome

(online price €6) takes 90min to reach ROME via Marsala 5 outside Termini. A direct Fiumicino-Termini bus service is also provided by Terravision (online €5). A City Airport Taxi from Fiumicino into town has a fixed fee of €48.

Lesser-used Ciampino Airport is 12km (7.5 miles) south-east of town, served by the same bus companies to Termini, SIT and Terravision (online price €5, journey time 45min). A City Airport Taxi from Ciampino has a fixed fee to the city centre of €45 but the standard rate you should find outside is €30. Flagging down a taxi or finding a rank works out cheaper than calling one – such price, Hotel Raffaello (via Urbana 3) is as Radio Taxi (+39 06 3570). Rome’s within easy reach of Termini. transport system consists of two metro lines, buses, trams and suburban Beer trains. A BIT single ticket (€1.50) is The Druid’s Den (via di San Martino valid for 100mins. A 24hr pass (€7), Ai Monti 28), Irish-owned Finnegan 48hr pass (€12.50) and 72hr pass (€18) near Cavour metro, football-oriented are also available. Highlander (vicolo di San Biagio 9) and Fiddler’s Elbow (via dell’Olmata Bed 43) are typical of the expat genre. Both Convenient for the Olimpico, elegant close to Colosseo metro serving the three-star Hotel delle Vittorie sits Colosseum, BrewDog Roma brings Rome rivals are still major players at link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/event- near piazza Giuseppe Mazzini. Just Scottish craft to the Italian capital Rome home and abroad. Home for both is the guide/rome/stadium/. the other side of the stadium, the while the Shamrock Irish Pub on Stadio Olimpico. Like Milan, Rome is rooftop terrace of the Hotel Farnesina via del Colosseo keeps adding to its Rome is Italy’s capital but it rarely a stadium-share city. Roma represent The main airport of Leonardo da Vinci- on the street of the same name mighty collection of football scarves, welcomes home its league title. downtown Testaccio, Lazio the suburbs Fiumicino, 35km (22 miles) south-west provides a perfect post-match vantage hanging over nine TV screens. The Regularly winning through to the of Parioli and beyond. The Olimpico is of the city centre, is connected by point. The other side of the Vatican, Bar San Calisto, in the square of the knock-out rounds of the major north of the Vatican, near the Tiber. Leonardo Express train (€14, 30min near Roma S Pietro station, upscale same name in Trastevere, is a lived-in European competitions, Lazio and journey time) every 15min to the main Starhotels Michelangelo is a four- local with classic calcio and Roma have not claimed any scudetto Bearings station of Termini. From Termini, star boutique. Central Hotel Rome iconography. Nearby, IVO a Trastevere silverware since 2000 and 2001 For official guidelines concerning trains leave from outer platform 28. Garden (via Nomenita 28) forms part (via di San Francesco a Ripa 158) is a respectively – although these eternal visiting Rome for the Euros, check this Alternatively, a regular SIT shuttle bus of a local chain. Good for location and homely football hang-out.

liberoguide.com 23 EUROS 2020 Stadio Olimpico www.liberoguide.com/stadio-olimpico STADIO OLIMPICO

football arenas in the world, as to the terminus at Mancini. You then anyone who has been at the Rome just have to cross the bridge with the derby will testify. Lazio fans fill the Olimpico ahead of you. Nord with noise and colour, Roma’s the Curva Sud – and never the Bars twain will meet. Prime seats are along On the city side of the river, by the sidelines, in the Tribune Tevere the No.2 tram terminus on piazza and Monte Mario. In recent years, Mancini, Pizzeria ‘Il Derby’ allows you Roma have made plans to move out to to gawp at autographed photos of Totti their own stadium at Tor di Valle, but while your slice is being prepared. the project has since been shelved. A string of outlets hugs the river on the stadium side of Duca D’Aosta A 70,000-capacity bowl in Rome’s Fascist entrance remains, with its Transport Bridge. These include friendly La Stadio Olimpico green northern reaches, Italy’s de walkway and hallmark obelisk. An From Ottaviano station on metro line Pizza del Buongustaio, the cabin- facto national stadium dates back open bowl inaugurated in 1953, the A, veer away from the Vatican in the sized River Café, and the more bar- All roads lead to Rome – or so nearly 70 years. In 1928, the national 54,000-seater arena was surrounded distance and into via Barletta, for the like Big Stefano’s, with table football. it seems when you stride up the stadium was in nearby Flaminio, by the sports complex. No.32 bus stop in the middle of the The liveliest fans frequent ‘il River’, grandiose walkway to the impressive where Mussolini opened the Stadio street. The infrequent No.32 heads drinking bottled Ceres (don’t touch the Stadio Olimpico. Stage for the del Partido Nacional Fascista. It then Host of the 1960 Games, the Olimpico north, past the Flaminio Stadium, and draught) and gawping at the earlier Olympic Games of 1960, the World hosted the World Cup final of 1934. was overhauled for the 1990 World after 15mins passes the Olimpico at game on the TV in a side area. Cup final of 1990, Euro 2020 Group A Meanwhile, a mile away across of Cup. The result is pretty much as you the stop LGT M.llo Diaz (De Bossis). A little further along, past piazzale games and a quarter-final, and many the Tiber, il Duce was also planning see today. Despite the sheer scale of di Ponte Milvio, the Antica Trattoria a major European final, the Olimpico a grand sports complex in his name: the place – and a running track – on An easier journey might be to Pallotta was founded in 1820 and still remains the shared home of Lazio il Foro Mussolini. Although this vast its night the Olimpico can be one take regular tram No.2 from Ple feels pleasingly old-school, with a and Roma. project never came to pass, the grand of the loudest and most colourful Flaminio/P de Popolo (metro line A) lovely summer garden attached.

liberoguide.com 24 EUROS 2020 St Petersburg www.liberoguide.com/st-petersburg

St Petersburg PETERSBURG ST

St Petersburg has superseded Moscow as Russia’s football capital. Flagship club Zenit, backed by energy giant , won the title again in 2021, the third in a row. They were also the last (and only the second) Russian club to win a European trophy, in 2008.

On , a 60,000-plus capacity superdome unveiled in 2017 Bar ’84 named after Zenit’s title- staged the Confederations Cup that winning season. By Moskovsky July. Designed by innovative Kisho station, Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky Kurokawa, the Saint Petersburg St Petersburg features the convivial Stadium was a World Cup venue in Paulaner Bar. 2018 and now a designated one for Euro 2020. It stands on the site of the Beer old , where Zenit won Suitable places to watch the match their only Soviet title in 1984. include Mollie’s Mews (Bolshaya Konyushennya ulitsa 5), in a local pub Bearings chain also including Mollie’s at ulitsa For official guidelines concerning Rubinstein 36 and the Office Pub at visiting St Petersburg for the Kazanskaya ulitsa 5. Near Euros, check this link: uefa.com/ Cathedral, right on Nevsky at No.22, uefaeuro-2020/event-guide/saint- card there, around 1,000r/€13 and Bed from Zenit’s former home, the three- you’ll find the Tower Pub, with TV petersburg/stadium. Pulkovo Airport 1,500rub/€19 to the centre. In town, By the stadium, the mid-range Arena star Shelfort (3-ya liniya Vasilevsky football – next door is O’Hooligans, is 17km (11 miles) south of the green-branded Taxovichkof (+7 812 Hotel has a pool, gym, sauna and ostrova 26) is reliably mid-range. another mini chain. Liverpool (ulitsa city centre. Bus Nos.39 and 39Ex 330 0002) are as good as any and restaurant. Also close is the Hotel Park Mayakovskogo 16) lays the Beatles run to Moskovskaya station every can be booked online. Moskovskaya Krestovsky, a modern three-star with By St Isaac’s, Astoria dates back to theme on thick but offers action in high 15-30mins (journey time 20mins). station is on blue metro line M2. courts. On the northern bank 1912, palatial enough for the French definition. By the , Pay the conductor on board, about One journey on the five-line metro by the amusement park, the Hermes squad who stayed here in 2018. the Shamrock is probably the most 40r/€0.50. Minibus K39 also calls at system is 55r/€0.70 with a token, a Park Hotel is pricier. The Courtyard St Alongside, Angleterre is similarly authentic of the football-focused pubs. Moskovskaya plus six other metro ten-trip card (370r/€4.75), available Petersburg Vasilievsky opposite the swanky. Near Tekhnologichesky Picturesquely set by the Fontanka, stations. Pass 40r/€0.50 to the from stations. For buses, trams and delivers four-star Institut (M1/M2), the Sokos Olympia Dickens offers a large range of draught driver. Arrange a taxi from the desk trolleybuses, pay the conductor comfort and stunning waterside views. Garden at Batayskiy pereulok 3A beers and whiskies. The Oliver pub in Arrivals, paying by cash or credit 40r/€0.50. Tucked in from Tuchkov Bridge across exudes Scandinavian cool, its Sports (ulitsa Belinskogo 3) is in similar vein.

liberoguide.com 25 EUROS 2020 Saint Petersburg Stadium www.liberoguide.com/saint-petersburg-stadium

games, average gates are 44,500, the STADIUM PETERSBURG SAINT highest in the Russian Premier. The best seats are in 1XBet Sektor A and Rossiya Sektor C along the opposite sideline.

Transport The nearest metro station, Novokrestovskaya (Новокрестовская) on green line M3, is linked to central Nevsky Prospekt. Krestovsky Island (Крестовского остров) on purple M5 also serves the stadium but is Saint Petersburg 2km/25min away, through Park Pobedy, pleasant on a summer evening, a no- Stadium no in winter.

The Saint Petersburg Stadium, also Bars known as the The stadium is surrounded by after the island it stands on, will parkland and waterfront, which stage seven games at Euro 2020, bars and restaurants use to full the same as for the 2018 World advantage. Five minutes away Cup. Here, scored his at Yuzhnaya doroga 25, at rustic wondergoal against Nigeria, France brewhouse/restaurant Karl und overcame Belgium in the semi-final Friedrich, pork knuckle, schnitzel and Belgium then claimed third place and sausages accompany litres of against England. house lager. Alongside, lakeside Krestovsky took ten years to build, been made to build a new arena play during the long, bitter winter. A Russian Fishing is a cosy cabin The arena had been unveiled the year from the groundwork in 1932, the where the Kirov had stood, with the snow-melting feature amid the roof where fish bred in the adjoining before, way past the original deadline Kirov required 18 years to complete, City of St Petersburg picking up the membranes of hot air allowed the waters are served. There’s a huge and way over budget, but in time interrupted by war. tab after Gazprom pulled out. By then opening game to take place between vodka selection to wash it all down. for the Confederations Cup. This is Japanese architect Kisho Kurokawa Zenit and Ural in April 2017, when also the home of recently crowned The curtain-raising match came in had passed away, but left in place a much of the city was still iced over. Across pedestrianised Yachtennyi Russian champions, Zenit. This 1950 between local teams Zenit and plan for a futuristic dome that would Capacity for the Confederations Cup Bridge in the Piterland centre, 68,000-capacity dome replaced the Dynamo. After Zenit had moved to the dominate one fifth of the island, from was set at 64,000, as it was for the Papasha Klauss is a German-style former Kirov Stadium, the Soviet-era smaller Petrovsky Stadium, the Kirov Victory Park to the waterfront. World Cup. Only 50,000 witnessed brewhouse with fabulous views bowl that once held 110,000 people. was demolished in 2006. In 2009, Russia’s debut here, a 2-0 win over the stadium and A statue of local Communist boss Russia submitted its bid to host the Above a two-tiered bowl, a retractable over New Zealand, 57,000 the final beyond. In summer, a beach bar still stands outside. If the World Cup. The decision had already roof and a retractable pitch come into between Germany and Chile. For Zenit extension usually operates.

liberoguide.com 26 EUROS 2020 Seville www.liberoguide.com/seville SEVILLE

between France and West Germany was Seville played at Sevilla’s Sánchez Pizjuán.

Romantic, romanticised Seville Bearings embodies all the clichés of , For official guidelines concerning the bullfighting, the flamenco and the visiting Seville for the Euros, check this fervent processions. The football, too, link: uefa.com/uefaeuro-2020/event- is just as fiery, the rivalry between guide/seville/stadium/. Betis and Sevilla more head-on than anywhere else in Spain. Seville’s San Pablo Airport is 10km (six miles) east of town. EA Airport buses At one point, the rivals were considering (every 30mins, journey time 35min, sharing a single stadium, named after €4), runs to city-centre bus hub Plaza the Hotel Exe Isla Cartuja serves the Fontecruz on C/Segovia, its rooftop the Bodega Santa Cruz (Calle Rodrigo the island it stands on: La Cartuja. de Armas, via Santa Justa station, stadium it stands alongside, offering a pool doubling up as a beach club. By Caro 1A), while nearby Bar La Moderna This is where and Celtic played terminus of the AVE train link with sleek stay. Also on the island, close to main Plaza Nueva, old-school Hotel (Calle Mateos Gago 7) is popular the UEFA Cup final of 2003, and where Madrid (2.5hrs). A Radio Taxi (+34 954 del Alamillo Bridge to the mainland, Inglaterra features a panoramic terrace. spot for TV football. The Café Bar Spanish Cup finals have been scheduled 580 000) to town carries a flat fare of the Barcelò Sevilla Renacimiento is a At the budget end, the Hostal Sierpes by Leviés (Calle San José 15) is another since the pandemic. Spain have played €25 daytime, €35 at night. A one-line family-friendly five-star with an outdoor the Flamenco Museum is set around a TV-football destination, with a huge several internationals there as well, metro system (€2.70-€3.60, day pass pool and gym. Sevilla’s Sánchez Pizjuán pretty courtyard. screen and seats outside. Taberna El most notably the 6-0 whitewash of €4.50) and TUSSAM buses (€1.40, day features business-like four-star Novotel Papelón is a local chain of tapas bars, Germany in November 2020. The city pass €5, 3-day €10) comprise the city’s Sevilla on one corner and the pool- and Beer including one on Calle Granada by has always held a talismanic attraction transport network. gym-equipped Meliá Lebreros near the The narrow streets of the Santa Cruz the Ayuntamiento. The main football- for La Selección. This tradition began at other. In town, high-end boutique options and Triana districts are lined with focused expat places in town are the Betis with Spain’s 12-1 win over Malta Bed include the Casa 1800, with a panoramic traditional tiled tapas bars that offer Merchant Pub on Calle Canalejas, in 1983 to qualify for Euro 1984. Shortly Seville Tourist Office (visitasevilla.es/ pool overlooking Seville Cathedral, local Cruzcampo beer and relief from O’Neill’s and The Clan on Calle Adriano before, the epic World Cup semi-final en) has a hotel database. On La Cartuja, the Palacio Alcazar alongside, and the the relentless Andalusian sun. Typical is by the bullring,

liberoguide.com 27 EUROS 2020 La Cartuja www.liberoguide.com/la-cartuja

properties, underlined by the 6-0 CARTUJA LA whitewash of Germany at La Cartuja in November 2020.

Transport The stadium is by Juan Bautista Muñoz (Leonardo da Vinci), one stop from the Américo Vespucci terminus of the circular C1 and C2 bus lines (every 10-15mins). Running in opposite directions, each calls at Resolana (Barqueta) on the mainland waterfront, and circumvents the city centre to terminate/set off from Prado de San Sebastián, the park south of town.

Bars From the mainland, across la Barqueta bridge, you soon find the Río Terraza nightclub, keeping late hours but open from late afternoon at weekends. As its name suggests, Unveiled in 1999 with a friendly 3-2 defeat to José Mourinho’s crew, it’s a terrace spot overlooking the La Cartuja between Spain and Croatia, the and the utter lack of local taxi drivers river. Nearby, attached to the Barceló stadium was central to Seville’s bid to that evening. Sevilla Renacimiento hotel, La Santa It was no coincidence that the host the Olympics of 2004 – and again María provides another terrace for 1492-themed Expo 1992 was sited on in 2008. Multi-purpose, with a running With both Olympic bids having failed, busy, downtown locations – such as alfresco drinks, with a superior snack La Cartuja, the island that reclines track, this 60,000-capacity arena then and the city’s rival clubs Betis and the Bernabéu – were forced out of selection. Nearer the stadium, beside in the Guadalquivir near the historic staged everything from to Sevilla unwilling to move out of favour. Two Spanish cup finals were the little tourist train that takes centre of Seville. Exactly 500 years Davis Cup tennis – when occasion their grounds and share La Cartuja, duly staged here in April 2021, both visitors round Alamillo Park, the before, Christopher Columbus set demanded. the stadium became a huge white involving Athletic Bilbao, whose local Kiosco El Naranjal serves as the main out for the New World, his voyage elephant, dusted down a couple government then decided against co- pre-match pitstop. A large terrace planned here on La Cartuja. Once Porto and Celtic fought out a ding- of times a year and ignored by the hosting Euro 2020. mainly catering to families with coffee the Expo pavilions were cleared dong UEFA Cup final here in 2003, many families visiting Isla Mágica. and snacks, it also sells beer and away, an amusement park, Isla which saw a peaceful invasion of Then came the pandemic. Isolated by The fact that Spain’s three group pours a decent gin & tonic. Within the Mágica, was set up and, by the Seville by 80,000 Celtic fans. Their definition, with a decent hotel right games will be held here is further stadium, on the west side, functional island’s northern tip, La Cartuja award-winning behaviour was even next door and one close by, La Cartuja happy coincidence. For La Selección, Cafetería de Pablo operates between Stadium (estadiolacartuja.es). more remarkable considering their came into its own when stadiums in the city of Seville has held magical a gym and a dance centre.

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