ANNUAL REPORT 2002-2003

CHAPTER XIII

TEXTILE RESEARCH ASSOCIATIONS

COTTON RESEARCH in economising energy, capital and were ASSOCIATIONS environmental friendly.

ollowing four Textile Research ATIRA Associations (TRAs) are registered F under the Societies Registration During this year ATIRA had undertaken 25 Act, 1860 (XXI of 1860), which come under R&D projects of considerable importance the umbrella of Textile Research and has imparted consultancy services to Association: 36 units. It has also applied for patent for the subject “Pre-Ginning Seed Cotton i) Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Cleaner for Removing Immature/ Defective Association (ATIRA), Ahmedabad; Bolls Leafy Matter to Waste Material from Seed Cotton”. A Seminar was organised on ii) Bombay Textile Research Association “Imperatives of Calibration in ISO 9000 (BTRA), Mumbai; Systems” on 2nd July, 2001 iii) South India Textile Research BTRA Association (SITRA), Coimbatore; During this year BTRA had undertaken 23 iv) Northern India Textile Research R&D projects and completed 8 projects. It Association (NITRA), Ghaziabad, imparted consultancy services to 466 units. Its achievements during the year included:- The main objective of these Associations is to carry out research and render i) Mr. Joseph Zacharia, Head, TEQC, consultancy services to the textile industry BTRA bagged the 1999 Hari Om on various aspects of textile technology with Ashram Award for his outstanding work a view to reducing the cost and improving on “Development of thin Kerosene the quality and durability of fabrics, reducing Vapor Recovery for .” pollution, conserving energy and utilising ii) Dr. A.N Desai, Director, BTRA was waste, adopting new technology and nominated as a member of the Editorial improving the technology in the Board of Indian Journal of Fibre and decentralised handloom sector. During the Textile research for the period January year 2001-02 these Associations undertook 2002 to December 2004. such projects, which had potential for commercial application to help the Industry iii) Mr. S.M. Dalal, Head, Operations

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Studies Division was nominated as a with Protech India Ltd. It has proven member of the committee constituted great help to fabric manufacturers to tap by the Textile Commissioner to carry the relatively untapped potential markets out techno-economic audit of in these two developing countries. conversion work undertaken by the mills under NTC(MN) Ltd., Mumbai. ii) Dr.M.S. Parmar & M. Chakraborty of NITRA bagged “Kanaiyalal Motilal SITRA Award “ in 42nd Joint technology Conference.for “A New Approach for During this year SITRA had undertaken 18 Manufacturing Cost effective R&D projects and completed 7 projects. It Fabric”. imparted consultancy services to 466 units and filed for patent for the development, “A SYNTHETIC & ART MILLS pneumafil suction tube for spinning RESEARCH ASSOCIATION textile machinery”. Its achievements during the year included:- The Synthetic & Art Silk Mills’ Research Association, (SASMIRA) Mumbai is a Textile i) “Century Best Technical Book Research Association located at Mumbai. in Textiles Award” for the year 2001 for Sasmira’s principle activities include the book “SITRA’s Research During the research and development, provision of Nineties”. technical services, testing and training facilities in the field of art and art silk. ii) C.D. Foundation Trust Award given to Ms. Indra Doraiswamy, Shri P. During the current year Sasmira has Muthukumaraswamy, Shri R. completed 6 projects. Sasmira has also Prakasam and H. Balasubramaniam. been engaged in the projects sponsored by Department of Science & Technology and NITRA of Ministry of Defence. During the period During this year NITRA had undertaken 36 under review, SASMIRA was engaged in R&D projects and completed 17 projects. It carrying out R&D work on the following on imparted consultancy services to 32 units. going projects Government sponsored/ Its achievements during the year included:- funded projects Some of the projects sponsored by Ministry of Textiles are given i) A very useful survey report “The Market below. for Fabric in Vietnam and Combodia- 2000” was released for the benefit of (i) Indigenisation of woven geogrid Indian fabric and textile accessories manufacturing technology. manufacturers and exporters. The (ii) Development of an indigenous airbag report was prepared in collaboration fabric for automotive safety.

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(iii) Development of scientific database and has been designated as a Nodal Agency for recipe prediction software for development of Technical Textiles; computer colour matching on , International Seminar of Technical Textiles viscose and its blend for the process was organized by SASMIRA. The prospect houses in the decentralized of technical textiles market in India is very sector. significant because it may help the ailing textile industry in the country not only to (iv) Producing dope-dyed polyester from survive but also to revive and thrive. A recycled PET waste for use in seminar on Technical Textiles was automotive interior textiles. organized by the Powerloom Development & Export Promotion Council (PDEXCIL) (v) Development of calibrated colour- Mumbai on 2nd September 2002 at Bhiwandi viewing cabinet with metamerism scale in collaboration with SASMIRA, Mumbai. for the process houses and garment Director, SASMIRA who highlighted the manufacturer. importance developing technical textile (vi) To develop standard depth and products in India to revive the ailing textile whiteness scales on textile industry and to grab a substantial share of substrates. the global market in the next decade.

(vii) Development of chemical protective SASMIRA has developed an instrument fabrics based on activated carbon fibres called Light Fastness Tester indigenously from cheaper sources. under a project sponsored by Deptt. of Science & Technology. This instrument (viii)Development of UV resist water proof was imported so far. The indigenous breathable coating as protective textiles. version of the instrument is expected to be cost effective. SASMIRA has also (ix) Reducing pollution by recycling developed various value-added products decoloured exhaust dye liquor. e.g. Fibre fills, Nonwoven blankets, (x) Design and development of a low Insulation batting for protective suits, Auto energy open width- machine for interior carpets, Floor carpets and Non batch dyeing of natural and systematic woven from recycled PET (Poly fabrics. Ethylene Terephthalate) Bottles under a project sponsored by Ministry of Textiles. SASMIRA is giving excellent testing services to textile manufacturers, traders, SASMIRA is receiving government financial exporters, Govt. agencies, R&D institutes, support for running Powerloom Service etc. in the field of man-made textiles, Centres at Bhiwandi. SASMIRA is helping synthetic textiles and allied fields. SASMIRA powerlooms units to prepare bankable

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project proposals for modernization under woven fabrics produced in different TUFS. weave constructions, using of different structural characteristics. MAN-MADE TEXTILES RESEARCH (iv) To develop eco-friendly substitute The Man-Made Textiles Research products for dyeing and printing of Association MANTRA), Surat is a Textile synthetic fabrics and to reduce the Research Association registered under the pollution load of the effluent. Societies Act of Gujarat. MANTRA is one of the Textile Research Associations catering (v) Development of air intermingled to multifarious needs of the textile and allied elastane combination yarns for stretch industry at large. The activities of MANTRA fabrics. are primarily aimed at planned and healthy growth of the decentralized sector. (vi) Application of formaldehyde-free finishes to man-made fibre-fabrics MANTRA has been undertaking the R&D such as tencel, viscose, polyester and assignments as per the needs of the local the blends and synthetic textile industry and the stress is, evaluation of the finished fabrics. particularly, more on the application and transfer of available research results to the (vii) Flame retardant based on local decentralised textile industry, which eco-friendly formulations for viscose, badly needs such inputs to withstand the polyester and their blends. global competition round the corner. Looking (viii) Application of cationic dyes to into the needs of industry. MANTRA has anionically modified and their undertaken research projects on such areas performance evaluation in comparison as pollution control (including noise pollution) with cationic dye dyeable polyester and and on mechanical and wet processing. regular nylon with special reference to Some of the on-going projects are: fastness properties. (i). Development of economical thickener MANTRA has a Computer Aided Design for printing synthetic fibre fabrics by Centre and three Powerloom Service replacing guar gum fully of partially with Centres at Dhokla, Sachin and Pandesara. other alternatives. The present activities of these units include (ii) Development of continuous filament training of weavers for quality fabric synthetics sewing by air-jet production design development on loom- texturing for domestic as well as export testing and technical service support for garment sector. loom modernization activity etc., for local Weavers’ Co-operative Societies and (iii) A study on the comfort properties of the weavers in respective areas.

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INDIAN INDUSTRIES RESEARCH designs connected with the said trades ASSOCIATION (IJIRA), KOLKATA of industries.

Indian Jute Industries Research Association The R&D activities and technology transfer (IJIRA), Kolkata, registered under West programme of IJIRA have helped to improve Bengal Societies Registration Act, 1961, is the productivity, product quality and cost an autonomous Cooperative Research viability of the organized jute mills and also Organisation mainly funded by the Ministry the SMEs in the jute sector. of Textiles, Government of India. IJIRA is Besides taking care of the persistent governed by a Council, headed by the problems of organized and decentralized Chairman, assisted by the Vice Chairman jute sectors, IJIRA is currently engaged in and consisting of 24 members in all, drawn R&D projects such as (i) Improvement of from the Industry, Government, Eminent Raw Jute characteristics by bio-chemical/ Professionals and others. The Director is chemical treatment, (ii) Process appointed by the Council and is the Principal improvement for quality enhancement, Executive Officer of the Association energy conservation, waste reduction, etc; exercising general power of supervision and (iii) Product development, e.g. cost-effective coordination over all activities of the traditional jute bags, low-cost jute carry Association and is assisted by the Secretary bags, technical textiles, etc; (iv) Eco- cum Financial Controller, Deputy Directors. compliance of jute products, (v) Jute Geo- There are nine technical divisions and each textiles, (vi) Jute Composites for various division is supervised by and held in charge new applications, (vii) Instrumentation (on- of a head In charge/Group Leader. line and stand-alone) for quality control, etc.

The objectives of IJIRA are: - IJIRA has been maintaining Regional Centres at Shantipur (West Bengal), (i) To promote Research and other Guwahati (Assam) and Vizianagram scientific work connected with the jute (Andhra Pradesh) for strengthening the trade and industries allied with or locally growing jute related activities. accessory thereto; IJIRA is maintaining a website – (ii) To establish and maintain laboratories www.ijira,org for disseminating various and faster education of persons information related to technology and other engaged in or likely to be engaged in the important issues related to jute. said trade and industry. INTERNATIONAL JUTE STUDY GROUP (iii) To examine and publish information (IJSG) regarding the nature and merits of inventions, improvements materials and An International Jute Study Group (IJSG)

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came into existence with effect from 25th (i) To fabricate a woollen carding machine April 2002 to succeed the erstwhile of 40’’ width to process coarser Indian International Jute Organisation (IJO), which for cottage level. entered into the liquidation mode with effect from 11th April 2000. The second session of (ii) Derivatisation, separation of banned IJSG was held on 29th June, 2002, in which amines isomers and their quantification the Indian candidate Shri T. Nandakumar, using internal standard. Joint Secretary (Jute), Ministry of Textiles, (iii) Investigation of Herbs, Belladonna, has been elected as its first Secretary- Neem and Custard Apple seeds as General. The new organisation will effective moth proofers. administer the provisions of the successor Agreement on Jute and Jute products, 2002 (iv) Enrichment of woollen fabric with adopted by the United Nations. printing for economic benefits.

WOOL RESEARCH ASSOCIATION (v) Dyeing of wool, Angora & at (WRA), THANE low temperatures.

The Wool Research Association, Thane (vi) Quality management from raw material was established and registered under the to yarn of wool and wool blends on the Societies Registration Act 1860 in October’ worsted system. 1963. It is engaged in various activities, necessary for the technological upgradation (vii) To develop cotton core and wrapped of the Indian Woollen Industry which woollen yarns on woollen spinning includes research and development work, system and study its suitability for special training programmes, educational products like dress materials, furnishing activities, foreign delegations’ visits, and knitwear. workshops and paper presentations at an (viii)Development of innovative yarns and international level. fabrics using elastomers (Lycra, Natural During the year 2001-02, the following rubber, Nylon) blended with wool, cotton activities were undertaken by the Wool acrylic for designing comfortable and Research Association: fashion oriented garments.

On-going Projects: (ix) Grading of pashmina.

The work on following Research Projects (x) Study of scouring, adopting various sponsored by the Ministry of Textiles was scouring methods, dehairing and continued by the Association during the year carding till top conversion of pashmina 2001-2002: - wool.

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(xi) Dyeing of pashmina. treatments including dyeing, natural dyeing and chemical testing of wool. (xii) Better waste utilization of pashmina wool guard hair fibres. l National Eco-testing Laboratory does testing of eco-friendly chemicals for Completed Research Projects: banned aminos, insecticides, etc.

The following Research Projects sponsored l The Textile Department is well equipped by the Ministry of Textiles were completed with the latest equipments for computer by the Association during the year 2001- colour matching. The department is 2002:- also well equipped with advanced textile designing software for design creations (i) To improve aesthetic value of the based on modules like jacquard, dobby worsted fabric by enzyme treatment. printing, carpets, embroidery, with its (ii) Development of different types hardware and output requirements knitwears, outerwears, Pullovers, along with Computerized Sample knitted shawls from Repco spun self Loom. twist yarn by using wool and other The Pilot Plant has the facilities of fibres in suitable blends. l woollen and shoddy spinning, jute Technical Services: spinning and friction spinning, self twist spinning for carrying out developmental The Association provided various technical work. services to the woollen industry through its established infrastructure during the year: l Textile Technology Department- Special Spinning System for carding, drawing & l The quality test house is well equipped spinning of fine wool like that from with equipment for testing of the angora rabit and merino is available. physical properties of wool and its blends from fibre to fabric. Wool Other Activities: Research Association renders its The transfer of R & D findings and the services to its members and non- l transfer of adapted technology to members from textile industry, defence, various entrepreneurs and industries customs, railways, state transports and was made via different HRD other authorities. The Quality Test programmes, training programmes, House is ISO 9002-1994 certified. courses, awareness programmes, l The Chemical Laboratory is well workshops, seminars, Ph.D. equipped for all the laboratory finishing programmes, etc.

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l Wool Research Association has an computerized and designing Extension Programme of UNDP 98 for system. Carpet on Natural Dyes. Under this project dissemination seminar and l A Wool Technology Training course workshop were conducted at IICT, was conducted by the WRA for Bhadohi and Jaipur. schoolteachers in association with the Marathi Vidyan Parishad. l Knitwear design developments by three students of National Institute of Fashion The WRA also provided consultancy Technology were carried out at WRA services to the woollen industry. during the year 2000-02 on the

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