Chester le Street Heritage Group Newsletter

Volume 4, Issue 1 Newsletter Date 5th March 2014 Special points of interest: The Grand Houses of Chester-le-Street &  New Series on Grand Houses of Surrounding Area. Chester-le-Street. While looking through the various pages of the Heritage Groups website at:  100 Years ago will www.chesterlestreetheritage.org.uk it was noticeable from the ‘Hit Counter’ shortly feature WW1 located at the bottom of the page, that the ‘Grand Houses of Chester-le-Street’ was a popular subject for many readers, so it seemed reasonable to try and investigate these buildings a little further. Initially, there seemed only to be about half a dozen Grand Houses in Chester-le- Street and the surrounding area. However, this research has produced quite a list which now stands at sixty plus such dwellings and counting. Granted the research may have got carried away somewhat, as it has now extended as far afield as in the North, Sunderland to the East, Binchester to the West and Darlington to the South, but they all have stories to tell. So it was considered that a good place to start would be within the boundaries of our town where there were several houses of note, such as The Deanery, Red Inside this issue: Rose Hall, Newker House, Whitehill Hall and the only one still standing today, The Hermitage. Therefore, it was decided to start this series with the information collected so far about Whitehill Hall. Grand Houses of 1 Alec Thompson Chester le Street Whitehill Hall Recent Meetings 4

Bygone Chester 6 le Street

100 Years Ago. 9 Page 2 Chester le Street

The Whitehill Estate first Hall Gardens. while at Whitehill Hall appears in documents In the1400s the on which he was around 1310 and one of “Melote” family, later to depicted as a huntsman, its earliest owners was a be known as the a gambler and in another gentleman called Roger “Millot’s” were the section shown drinking De Aula De Cestria. The owners until around the and smoking. Whitehill Estate covered mid-1700s, when the The Hall stood in quite a large area to the Wastell family became wooded parkland near west of the town and the residents of the banks that lead down today it is still referred Whitehill in 1747. This to the Cong Burn and to as the Whitehill Park change of ownership may have been built on Estate, which includes appears to have the site of an earlier housing estates such as occurred due to the manor. The Wastell’s Lingholme, Cragside, death of John Millot who then sold the grand W y n y a r d , G i b s i d e seems to have been a bit mansion of Whitehill to (which are in themselves of a character. Seemingly the Cookson family, named after Grand an illustrated screen when John Cookson Houses) and the more belonging to him was remodelled, extended aptly named Whitehill retained for quite a and altered the building

in a style typical of the Furnace Farm is situated opposite bank of the 1830s. The architect is today. This was the first Burn. In this respect, a unknown, but the old blast furnace in the few years ago when the centre was fronted by a world to use coaling remains of the Roman colonnade and flanked coke rather than bridge supports located by two wings with charcoal and was known further downstream shallow bay windows. to be in operation in were being investigated, There was blank 1745. The forge was a pyramid of old Cannon panelling between the used to produce Canons Balls was discovered storeys with a low and Canon Balls for the which hadn’t been used. pitched roof and deeply Napoleonic Wars and They are now held in Whitehill Furnace overhanging eaves. seemingly they used to various collections. Isaac Cookson test these by firing them The Whitehill Forge developed and worked across the Burn, so appears to have had only the Whitehill Furnace there must be still a a limited operational life and Forge, which was number of Cannon Balls due to problems in located nearby where embedded in the obtaining suitable iron ore (which was Barrett a mining subsidence, probably brought up the River engineer who in 1892 due to the workings of Wear to Chester-le- had come to assist his nearby Pelton Fell Street on barges from brot her- in- law, Sir Collieries and the as far away as Lindsay Wood, in building had to be Ravenscar on the connection with the demolished. North Yorkshire colliery interests of the The Great War of coast) and technical Ecclesiastical 1914 to 1918 cut difficulties with the Commissioners in the across society; the Earl operation of the North. However, of Durham lost one of furnace. Pelton Colliery his brothers and his In 1858 Mrs Cookson Company acquired the nephew, Sir Lindsay was the owner and the land at Whitehill and in Wood lost his son Cookson’s lived at 1917 Charles Rollo Collingwood. Charles Whitehill Hall until the died. In the same year Rollo Barrett’s son 1894 when it was sold the Hall became the Lindsay, who had been Lyndsay Barrett to Charles Rollo victim of mining awarded the Military Volume 4, Issue 1 Page 3

Cross, was killed on the A window in the Parish site a little further to the 17th March 1916 and this Church is dedicated to North, but this too had could have been the memory of Charles to be pulled down due coincidental to Charles Rollo Barrett and his son to serious vandalism in Rollo’s death in the Lindsay. the later years of the following year. The Chester -le-Street 1960s. Chronicle newspaper The only known dated 15 th November photograph of Whitehill 1918 reads: ‘Tidings of Hall shows the frontage Peace – the whole town and is dated c1910. was soon decked with There is also a photo of flags and streamers the interior of the front across the Front Street, hall, which gives some but much sorrow tinged indication of the the gladness. Many grandeur that once people have lost loved existed in this Grand ones.’ House. A new Whitehill Hall All that remains today to was built in 1920 on a remind us of this once impressive building is the Whitehill Gatehouse or Lodge and the Gateway Entrance located on the Pelton Fell Road and several references in the naming of various roads such as Whitehill Way, which is the link road leading from Pelton Fell Road up towards the ‘Waldridge Road’, the much more modern’ Whitehill Hall Gardens’ and of course Whitehill Hall Interior there is ‘The Whitehill Public House’. Whitehill Hall – Timeline.

Roman Coal and iron ore extracted on Pelton Fell. Bloomeries making pig‐iron. c.1330 Manor house at Whitehill (or Whithall). c.1690 Other ironworks in the region, e.g. Shotley Bridge, Allensford Mill, Winlaton Mill. 1721 Whitehill Furnace (on the Pelton Fell Road). Others at Lumley and Tow Law. 1745 Refinements to iron process, use of coke rather than charcoal. Forging of cast iron. 1745 John Cookson purchases Whitehill Manor. 1786 Another furnace on the Cong Burn and at Beamish. Whitehill only furnace making cannon. Iron now being brought in from Yorkshire. C1799 Active manufacture of cannon and cannonballs at Whitehill, delivered by sea to Woolwich Arsenal. 1820 Whitehill Hall rebuilt. 1920 Whitehill Hall demolished and rebuilt due to subsidence problems. 1960 Whitehill Hall demolished due to severe vandalism. 1973 Lingholme, Cragside, Wynyard and Gibside estates built, initially by a private developer, However, due to financial problems these estates were taken over by Chester-le- Street Urban Council. Whitehill PH 1990’s Whitehill Hall Gardens built by a private developer. Page 4 Chester le Street

Recent Meetings

Meeting 6th November National Trust to daughter, Elizabeth, Anthea Lang a own given that, married Francis volunteer at although there are Bowes of Streatlam Gibside Estate quite a few Castle. Coal was The Chapel g a v e u s a n buildings on the prevalent and of interesting talk site, there is no very good quality in about Gibside, it's dwelling of note the area and the history, it's now existing, only family mined and people, it's the shell of the shipped it to intrigues and it's Main house. London in huge scandals. The Estate was quantities. This is Gibside has an established in predominantly how important place in mediaeval times. At they made their the history of some stage, it was fortune. Derwentside. It is owned by William Francis and also an unusual Blakiston who died Elizabeth's third property for the in 1641. His son, George, he therefore It has a three tier created the gardens at Gibside. became John Bowes pulpit, weddings George had a - Lyon. A later are conducted daughter, Mary descendant was of t h e r e a n d Eleanor. She in course our own underneath the turn married John Queen Mother. building there is a Lyon of Strath- There is no access crypt where several more. The terms to the Hall at generations of of her father's Gibside. The Hall Bowes and Bowes - The Column to Will decreed that that was originally Lyons are interred. Liberty when she married there was turned The stables are Mary Eleanor's i n t o a n particularly grand husband must take “Interesting" shell and intact. One the name of of a dwelling. The incumbent bred Bowes. She Chapel is by far the race horses and married John Lyon most visited was successful in of Strathmore and building on the site. that endeavor. Indeed, there are the family and John Cookson, son of Isaac race horses today their trials and was born in 1712 in Penrith. that have come triumphs. It was His father sent him across down the line of an informative talk to Newcastle to become an The Orangery those Gibside and, while many of apprentice to the Merchant horses. us have been to Adventurers. After his The National Trust Gibside, it was apprenticeship John started holds many events great to hear the his own glass works with at Gibside during details. partners. They specialised in the year, music Crown Glass which was fine festivals, book Meeting 8th January glass and it became quite fairs, etc. All John Banham came to give helping to keep the us a very interesting and important, but they also Gibside Estate informative talk about John made other types of glass viable. Cookson. The Cookson too, window glass, bottle glass, etc. They eventually The Stables We heard about family was an important the generations of family in Chester-le-Street. sold their glass all over the Volume 4, Issue 1 Page 5 c o u n t r y a n d h a d a deal in coal mining and in at the age of 71 the family warehouse on the north 1755 he began the first continued to be successful. side of the Thames by Bank in Pilgrim Street, It seems that John and his London Bridge. N e w c a s t l e . A l l h i s descendants could not put a John married Elizabeth businesses were national foot wrong. Although it Lutwidge who came from a and they supplied goods to was perhaps hard work to wealthy family. In 1745 purchasers all over the begin with, John Cookson almost immediately after Country from Edinburgh to became an important man t h e w e d d i n g , J o h n Plymouth. and very successful. There purchased the Whitehill Thomas Cookson, a are several references to Estate in Chester-le-Street. descendant of John, built The Cookson’s in Chester He was 33 years old. In The Hermitage in Chester- le Street, The Cookson PH partnership with John le-Street and it was on The Avenues estate, Button, John Cookson built Thomas who tried and Cookson Terrace, Pelton a coke fired blast furnace eventually failed to stop the Fell, now demolished, The on the Whitehill Estate. railway line coming through Hermitage which is now (See article on Grand the town from Durham. private appartments and Houses). John went on to After Johns death in 1783 The Whitehills Pub.

Meeting 5th February town to provide and share. ty-eight men sat down M r B i l l S a u n d e r s It closed down however and agreed principles to entertained us with a talk after the Highland be followed and the Co- and photographs etc. Clearances in 1873. operative as we know it, about the Co-operative David Dale, a mill owner in was begun. Stores. It was generally nearby New Lanark, a very In the North East the M.P thought that the Co- good employer who for Newcastle, Joseph operative started in provided housing and Cowen, was instrumental Rochdale in 1844. schools for his workers in the Co-operative However, the idea of such employed one Robert society, particularly the a thing began in Fenwick, Owen. Blaydon store. The first Scotland in 1761. This was In 1873 the first Co- store in Newcastle primarily for people who operative store opened in opened in 1876. weren't too well off and it Toad Lane, Manchester Contrary to popular was a joint venture and that building is still thinking the Co - Robert Owen between the people of the there as a museum. Twen- operative stores we see Statue. Manchester all over the country are similar announcing that He showed us photos of not and never were part they are a Co•operative other holdings that of "a whole". They are Store and more often than furnished the Co-operative actually completely not the date they were stores with goods. Such as:- independent of each other. opened. Clothing factories, (the Over the last several years Bill went on to show us Pelaw factory where, the Co-operative has been photos of Co-operative among of things, they made losing out to stores such buildings, still in situ and the Mosquito Airplanes), as Poundland, B&M, etc. still being used albeit not as farm s, flo ur m ills, However, there are still the Co-operative. These warehouses, Funeral stores to be found and, if buildings are being turned Directors, Banks, the list is one were to look up into hotels, shops, coffee endless it seems. Why not above the pavement shop bars; the Malmaison Hotel, visit Beamish and see an fronts, one can still see the Discovery Museum, exhibit of a typical 1913 that those existing Stowell Street, just by the store ? Rochdale Building Toad Lane buildings have plaques or Mandarin Restaurant. Ann Page 6 Chester le Street

Bygone Chester le Street

I was delighted to receive Travelling from Durham with a background of at Christmas my own copy to Newcastle as one ancestral trees. Between of Bygone Durham edited would always desire to the railway and the by William Andrews and travel, by the quickest castle, and in the vicinity published in 1898. The train, one catches a swift of the church spire, one book includes an article by glimpse of a deep valley, might notice that much Aaron Wilson on Chester- of rows of red-tiled unsul lied b ric k and le-Street. As I reread the cottages lining the banks gleaming slate has words written well over of a shallow stream, of a intruded itself into the 110 years ago I was church spire of unusual landscape. This is reminded of their height and fineness of Chester-le-Street, in wonderful expressive proportion, and, on a course of transformation content and have included green piece of rising from an ancient village to the whole of the article ground beyond all these, a modern town, with below for you to share. of a square castle, like a Lumley Castle rising as a Dorothy huge mediaeval keep, witness for antiquity in

the not remote covering an area of six with the body of the distance. acres or so. In later holy St. Cuthbert in their What a history the times the great North charge. It only falls to be place would have, could Road was driven through set forth here how, it now be fully and what remained of the before they were accurately recorded! habitations of the Roman mysteriously led to B ut t he hist o r y o f conquerors, but before Durham, they settled Chester-le-Street is a this happened Chester-le among the ruins of succession of vague -Street had been the Cunecaster, as this place glimpses and large gaps. northern birth-place of a was then called, and There was, of course, a new civilisation and the established a Bishopric, Roman station here. It refuge of an infant which endured for more is believed to have church. than a hundred years. measured about 180 Elsewhere in this volume From first to last there yards from north to is told the strange story were nine Bishops at south, and about 170 of the wanderings of the Chester-le-Street. They from east to west, thus monks of Lindisfarne, still called themselves

Bishops of Lindisfarne, Lindisfarne and the roguery in a manner and and the first of them was pious companions of to an extent which were Eardulph, who had his wanderings fixed quite new in his own actually been chosen to upon this quiet valley as time. He despoiled some that position in 854. The a place in which their churches in order to sixth of the series was journeying's might make others more Sexhelme, who was cease, they immediately glorious; he robbed deposed in the year in constructed for Durham that he might w h i c h h e w a s themselves a wooden enrich Peterborough. consecrated. Aldune, church, which was What he must have who was Bishop at accounted sufficient for esteemed as a Chester-le-Street from all purposes until, in the providential piece of 990 to 995, removed the middle of the eleventh good fortune befell him see to Durham, where century, Egelric was at Cunecastre, other- he successfully governed Bishop of Durham. This wise Chester-le-Street. his monks until 1018. singular ecclesiastic He had determined to When the Bishop of combined piety and build a new church there Volume 4, Issue 1 Page 7 in memory of the fact his name, and was centuries, came the constructed with the that the body of the disso lut ion of money so fortunately monasteries, when the blessed St. Cuthbert had here found a resting discovered at Chester-le possessions of the place. Then it was that -Street. church passed into the he came upon a great But he had built the new hands of the crown. The treasure of gold and church before that time, present church, with the silver, which he and, though this is not exception of the spire, is transferred to his former quite certain, there are much older than this m o n a s t e r y a t probably some remains event, though its exact Peterborough forthwith. of it in the present date is, and probably will He followed it himself in structure. The church remain, uncertain. due time and expended was made collegiate It is about a mile from the wealth thus acquired towards the end of the Chester-le-Street to in forming roads and thirteenth century by Lumley Castle, which, as building churches. The Bishop Bek, who added a regards its exterior, road from Spalding to dean and seven seems to date from the Deeping Fen in prebends. Then, in less end of the fourteenth Lincolnshire, still bears than two and a half century. It was probably one of the earliest, as it through which they have Liulph rode in pursuit is one of the most endured, but high - of the boar; here he typical, structures of its pitched roofs have been probably heard of the kind. Ford Castle, in added, and square coming and victory of Northumberland, is built windows have been let the Norman; here he on much the same plan, in, and the interior has felt the wrath and but is of later date. A been made a fit indignation of his race quadrangle encloses a habitation for the Earls at the oppressions and square courtyard. There of Scarborough. degradations practised are lofty towers at each It is amusing to find on the Saxon people corner of the building, William Howitt placidly and no bles by t he each of them bearing, as taking for granted all that haughty Conqueror." regards its exterior, a is said about Lumley Was there ever a close resemblance to a Castle, its owners, and gallant old Liulph ? I am Norman Keep. The walls their pedigree. "Through in much doubt. There have changed very little these woods probably," is an effigy of him in the in all the centuries he says, "the gallant old church of Chester-le-

Street; but if he ever sixteenth century. Lord imaginary representa- John's family pride lived he had a t i o n . T h e n c o m e descendant who assumed the character Uchtred, and ever so confused his pedigree by and the proportions of a many more. They are all the manufacture of a mania. Besides collecting picturesque, all striking, false ancestry. Howitt or ordering many of the all impressive, but nearly glowingly describes the portraits in the Castle, all dubious, and to that long succession of family he filled the church of extent ridiculous. The portraits which he found Chester-le-Street with Lumleys have had a in the castle. He never the effigies of doubtful noble history, hints at the fact that ancestors. Some of these nevertheless, linking these sometimes he removed from itself throughout with indifferent works of art Durham Abbey, some this splendid castle, and were mainly collected were sculptured by the if they choose to believe by, or were painted for, m aso ns o f t he d ay . more about it than is Lord John Lumley, There lies the gallant old true, that, after all, is towards the end of the Liulph, obviously an their own affair. Page 8 Chester le Street

Chester-le-Street, ex- against each other with “And now in the winter, No need for panding into prosperity phenomenal vigour. The when men kill the fat after many centuries of annual football match is swine, Speed. repose, with coal mines the one great holiday of ringing it round about, the year. It is neither the They get the bladder, and still faithfully preserves R u g b y n o r t he blow it great and thin some of its ancient Association game that is customs. There is, for played. The Chester-le- And many beans and peas example, the annual Street style of football are put therein, f o o t b a l l m a t c h o n dates back to a past Shrove Tuesday. It is a which had little regard It runneth, soundeth, and battle on the Town and for the rules of any shineth cleare and fayre, In 1871 a Gown model. It may, game. There is a poet of Northern Chief indeed, have originated the sixteenth century While it is throwen and Constable saw fit in contests between the who seems to have had cast up in the ayre,

to issue the m o n k s a n d t h e such a contest in mind. following Force townsfolk. In these days He says:— Each one contendeth and Order :- the Up-streeters and the hath a great delite Down-streeters contend A case has recently occurred

in which a Police With foot and with hand ant little parties at the they enter into the game Cart was upset the bladder for to smite. windows upstairs, just as with such vigour that in and smashed if a royal procession 1887 they broke down a when going round were about to pass. The lamp-post. The contest a turn. The Chief If it fall to ground they lift game is to get the ball, usually extends over Constable has it up again, by handling, picking, or from four to five hours, reason to believe and eventually concludes that some Police And then for labour they throwing, to the bottom Officers drive count for no payn." or the top of the street. amid much public rejoic- their Carts at too There are gigantic ing. Chester-le-Street great a rate. Six W hen t he fo o t ball scrimmages, of course, football is a barbarian miles an hour match is to be played, round a small, stout, amusement, and may should be the the shopkeepers of thick ball, which can bear indeed have been maximum rate. Chester-le-Street close almost any amount of ill inherited from their shops and usage. All the male barbarians.

barricade their doors. inhabitants of the town Cuff Key. Then they make pleas- seem to be engaged, and

Swinburn & Jackson

As reported recently the 31st January in the local press ! 2014 after having been founded Swinburn and s o m e t w o Jackson Solicitors, hundred and fifty who have offices in years ago. Their Chester-le-Street, head office was Gateshead, Ryton located in and Washington, Gateshead but have called in the they have had an administrators. office in Chester Apparently the le Street for many company ceased years. trading on Friday Volume 4, Issue 1 Page 9

100 Years Ago or more. Sit up and From the Chester houses with Parlour, planned on modern lines Beg. le Street Chronicle Kitchen, Scullery and 3 with a good centre bedrooms. Each house road, a grass verge along of March 6th 1914. will be provided with a which trees will be

The Council has secured bath, Rents are:- planted and it is hoped 17 acres of land on very 5 shillings and 9 pence, that the children will advantageous terms to 6 shillings and 6 pence allow these to remain the west of the railway 7 shillings and 9 pence. without interference ! station and to the North Inside of this there will In 1903 the Chief of Bullion Lane in Twenty Four sites on be a footpath. There will Constable of continuation of Avondale the south side of the be no back streets but Northumberland Constabulary Terrace. 198 houses are area, abutting Bullion each house will have a proposed, 116 with a Lane are being reserved front and back garden issued the following Kitchen, Scullery and 2 for private owners on with a passage way which even better types instructions bedrooms, 70 with between. regarding the Kitchen, Scullery and 3 of houses may be built. feeding of stray The estate is being bedrooms and 12 corner dogs held at Police Stations’ :

Extracts from Local Historians Table book All stray dogs by MA Richardson detained by the Police are to be fed on dog 1693—Wagon ways were now first used on the river Wear by Thomas Allan biscuits once a Esq. of Newcastle, who amassed a large fortune in the collieries and purchased day – large dogs estates, a part of which still retains the name of Allan’s Flatts, near Chester-le- receiving three Street. Hutchinson's Durham. biscuits and January 18th 1763—After several weeks of severe frost, most of the rivers medium sized were frozen over. The River Wear was greatly reported to by the gentlemen of and smaller ones the neighbourhood for the exercise of skating. two biscuits February 24th 1775—In the afternoon of this day, two felons who had been daily. In all cases the biscuits committed to Durham gaol, charged with robbing Chester church, made their are to be broken escape from thence, but one of them having broken his leg in the fall, was soon into small pieces, retaken, the other (a chimney sweep) swam through the river with his clothes and for old dogs, on before he was secured. or dogs with indifferent teeth, Free Computer Various courses have computer/laptop/tablet the biscuits must Classes and One been arranged at differ- or smart phone and you be soaked in ent locations and there would like to make water. When a to One Tuition. are also Techy Tea Par- better use of it with dog is claimed by ties where you can bring totally free advice and any person he Would you like to your own device along guidance contact will be charged receive free computer (Laptop/Tablet or Mobile at the rate of 1d Online Owls on for each biscuit training all paid for by Phone) and receive one 0191 385 1436, supplied to the to one assistance with The Big Lottery Fund ? dog. The On Line Owls your particular problem. email project from Cestria For those with desktop [email protected] Cuff Key. Housing can provide just PC’s and those who are that. You can get help unable to get to the or visit with Computer Basics, events training at home www.onlineowls.co.uk (inc e mail and Internet), may also be possible, by or really anything that appointment. for more information. you are unsure about. So basically, if you have a Can You Help Us ? CONTACTS The Heritage Group have a continued interest in “All Things Chester-le-Street.” Chairperson - [email protected] We are interested in contacting people, both those who live in the Information requests/web town and those who have family connections to borrow, copy and [email protected] return any of the following:- Friends 1. Photographs/Postcards of the Front Street and surrounding [email protected] areas. Members of the Group have the capacity to scan Newsletter photographs, negatives and slides. [email protected] 2. 8mm/16mm/Video film of events that happened in Chester le Street. 3. Ephemera to do with the Front Street – bill headings, paper bags, advertising material. If you can help us in any way, please get in touch or call at one of our meetings or drop in sessions.

Next Newsletter

4th June 2014 A copy of the Chester le Street Contributions Secondary School required by Magazine for 1940?

If anyone has a copy please contact 21st May Dorothy Hall. 2014 Events Diary

Date Time Event Location

Every Tuesday 10:00-12:00 Drop In Session Salvation Army Citadel All Welcome Low Chare , Chester le Street.

Wed 19th March 19:00-21:00 Normal Mtg Ch-le-St Library Wed 2nd April Speaker from Durham Amateur football trust. Wed 16th Apr Normal Mtg Wed 7th May Speaker Craig Barclay Archaeology of Chester le Street Wed 21st May Speaker - Harry Moses Heritage Group The Fighting Bradfords Wed 4th June Normal mtg