2 Memorials 07920199 1761 3 Old Warwickshire Memorials of the Counties of England General Editor : Rev. P. H. Ditchfield, M.A., F.S.A. Memorials OF Old Warwickshire ^^:^iS3:x.W MEMORIALS OF OLD WARWICKSHIRE EDITED BY ALICE DRYDEN Editor of Memorials of Old Northamptonshire AND Memorials of Old Wiltshiie With many Illustrations LONDON BEMROSE & SONS LIMITED, 4 SNOW HILL, E.G. AND DERBY 1908 \_All Rights Reserved] Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto (olO http://www.archive.org/details/memorialsofoldwaOOdryd PREFACE No general introduction to another volume of the now well-known Memorials series is needed. It is, however, necessary for me to explain that I have purposely omitted from this volume on Warwickshire chapters on what has become popularly known as " Shakespeare's Country "—the towns of Stratford-upon- Avon, Warwick, and Leamington, Kenilworth Castle, also Guy's Cliff— for there has been a multiplicity of books on these well-known places of late years. For the same reason I have omitted all notice of ShaJkespeare himself, and also of the history of Coventry town. The Castles of Warwick and Kenilworth are noticed under " Castles," and subjects of great interest, but little known, concerning Warwick, Stratford-upon-Avon, and Coventry, are treated of. Owing to illness, Mr. Shepard has been unable to write " The Recusants in Warwickshire," that was included in the original contents. It only remains for me to record my most grateful thanks to the writers, and to all those who have so kindly taken or lent photographs and blocks for illustrations; also to Mr. Francis B. Andrews, who has specially drawn the plans of Warwick, Kenilworth, and Tamworth Castles for this book. Alice Dryden. CONTENTS Page i Historic Warwickshire . By M. Dormer Harris Stoneleigh Abbey ... By The Lady Leigh . i8 The Tapestry Manufacture at Barcheston . By M. Jourdain . 30 Early Works of Architecture in Warwickshire .... By Jethro A. COSSINS . 39 The Shirleys of Ettington . By R. O. D. .56 On the Monuments and Effigies in St. Mary's Church and the By Albert Beauchamp Chapel, Warwick Hartshorne, F.S.A. 67 Church Bells of Antiquity . By S. S. Stanley, M.B.N. S. ... 91 The Newdegates . By F. A. Newdegate . 100 The Literary Associations of Warwickshire . By M. JOURDAIN . .112 Notes on Warwickshire Mints By S. S. Stanley, M.B.N.S. .127 The Origin and Growth of Birmingham .... By HOWARD S. Pearson 131 The Manuscript Treasures of Coventry By M. Dormer Harris 157 Rugby School . By A. Edward Treen . 169 Compton Wynyates ... By Alice Dryden . 178 viii Contents Page % Pre-Reformation Monastic Estab- By DoM Gilbert lishments DOLAN, O.S.B. 201 Sir William Dugdale ... By W. F. S. Dugdale . 219 The Castles of Warwickshire . By Francis B. Andrews, F.R.I. B.A. .231 The Moated Houses of Warwick- shire By Oliver Baker, R.E. 242 A Note upon the Charters and Muniments of Stratford-upon- By W. Salt Brassing- Avon TON, F.S.A. 258 Index 267 INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS New Hall Frontispiece (Frotii a photograjik by Oliver Baker) Page, or Facing Page Warwick Castle : South Front .... {From a photograph by Edith M. Garner) Stoneleigh Abbey : Gatehouse .... i8 Stoneleigh Abbey 26 Tapestry Map : Warwickshire Portion 34 (From a photograph by Horace Hart, by permission of Bodley •J Librarian) Wooton Wawen Church : South Arch 44 Beaudesert Church : Chancel Arch . 47 East Window 48 Bickenhill Church 52 Curdworth Church : Font . ... 54 (The above five blocks, made fi? otn dratvings by Oliver Baker, front photos by Jethro A. Cossins, are lent by the Birmingham Arc haological Society^ The Old Church, Lower Ettington 64 Beauchamp Chapel, looking East ...... 74 (From a photograph by Edith M. Gamer) Tomb of the Founder—Richard Beauchamp .... 84 (From a photograph by Edith M. Garner) Monuments of the de Birminghams in St. Martin's Church (The oldest work of men's hands in Birmingham) 134 (From a photograph by Harold Baker, Bimtingham) The " Old Crown House," Deritend (From a photograph by Harold Baker, Birmingham) X Index to Illustrations Page, or Facing Page Aston Hall . (From a photograph by Harold Baker, Birmingham) 1 42 „ The Long Gallery „ „ „ 154 Ideal Portrait of Lawrence Sheriff 170 {Designed ana engraved, from a drawing by M. H. Bloxam, by A. E. Treen) Rugby School: School House 176 (From a photograph by John J . Hensman, Rugby) Compton Wynyates : South Front 180 „ ,, Entrance Porch 190 (Frotn a photograph by Alice Dryden) „ „ Inside of the Porch . .194 (From a photograph by Alice Dtyden) „ „ Bay Window . .196 (From a photograph by Alice Dryden) Polesworth Church 206 (From a photograph by S. R. Schofield, Athersione) The Ruins of Merevale Abbey 210 (From a photograph by S. R. Schofield, Atherstone) Maxstoke Priory: the Gateway 214 (Fro)n a photograph by Edith M. Garner) Sir William Dugdale 220 (From an engraving by W. Holl, from a painting at Blyth Hall) Plan of Kenilworth Castle 230 (Drawn by Francis B. Andrews, F.R.I.B.A.) by Garner) Astley Castle . (From a photograph Edith M. 234 Plan of Warwick Castle (Dra%vn by Francis B. Andrews, F.R.I.B.A.) 236 Maxstoke Castle : Gate-house 238 (From a photograph by Edith M. Garner) Plan of Tamworth Castle 240 (Drawn by Francis B. Andrews, F.R.I.B.A.) Baddesley Clinton : North and West Fronts .... 242 (From a photograph bv Harold Baker, Birmingham) Baddesley Clinton : West and South Fronts .... 244 (From a photograph by Harold Baker, Birminghain) Index to Illustrations xi Page, or Facing Page New Hall : North-East Angle of the Moat .... 248 {From a photograph by Oliver Baker') The Hall at Solihull Hall before it was divided up . .250 (From a Drawing by Jethro A. Cossins) Packwood House, from the South-East 252 (FrofH a photograph by Baron Ash) Nether Whitacre Gate-house . .254 (From a photograph by Jethro A. Cossins) Ram Hall, from the Moat 258 (Frotn a photograph by Jethro A. Cossins) HISTORIC WARWICKSHIRE WARWICKSHIRE is a land of contrasts. Its story is the story of roads and woods, castles and great estates, of pastures, of mines, and of cities, as well as of the strange and unfathomable thoughts and impulses of men—and now this feature, now that, predominates in its history. Lying as it does in the heart of England, it has long been, and still is, a thoroughfare shire; for all who journey from London to the north-east of England, or from Bristol to the north-west, must needs touch upon some part of Warwickshire earth. Roads minister incalculably to civilization. What the sea has been to Kent and Devon, the Watling Street, the branches of the Holyhead road, and the railway lines have been to Warwickshire. The county is even now a woodland one. Anciently the whole of the district north of Avon—the Arden—was forest ; in Roman times a wedge of woods flanked by roads. This fact will in part account for the comparative scantiness of the traces therein of Roman civilization. Maybe also the prevalence of forest accounts for the wealth of legend within the shire, for old stories and beliefs survive longest where small communities live isolated lives, as they must needs do among woodlands. Warwickshire was a part of Mercia—the " March " or border—the borderland between Welsh and English ; later it lay on the border line between Danes and English, on the Watling Street. Its earthworks, whereof some date from prehistoric times, tell tales, unnoted in written pages, of operations offensive and defensive ; and we probably owe the very name of the county, the grouping together B 2 Memorials of Old Warwickshire of the hundreds that could defend and be defended by the " burh " of Warwick, to the mihtary necessities of the Danish invasion. In later times the water-defended fort of Kenilworth and that of rock-built Warwick have a vivid feudal and military story of their own, which merges, when the respective castles became royal property, into the dynastic and political history of England. Coventry also, as a walled town, played a noteworthy part in the Wars of the Roses and the Great Rebellion under Charles I. But the commercial fame of Warwickshire towns dwarfs their military accomplishments. Coventry sprang into greatness with the woollen civilization of the fourteenth, and Birmingham with the coal and iron civilization of the eighteenth, century. The wealth above ground of its pastures, and below ground of its mines, combined with its accessibility, has tended, and still further tends, to urbanize—if the word be admissible—north and mid- Warwickshire. All this growth of cities has given to the people a touch of cosmopolitanism, whereto we may attribute that adaptability and commercial resourcefulness which gives them a present as well as a past. For cities attract strangers ; new-comers bring new ideas ; and history is the roar of the grinding together of the old and the new about the ocean of time. But Warwickshire has not lived by trade alone. Here and there the quality of the climate relaxes the energy of the people ; it is unusual to find a Midlander with the typical American's biting activity, or the typical Yorkshire- man's masterfulness. But where the nervous energy does not discharge itself in the practical sphere there is greater store of it in the region of thought and feeling. In poets, martyrs, fanatics, reformers, in those who have that supreme quality that they have set aside fear, this little nook of land has been abundantly rich. In literature there are two great names to instance—Shakespeare's and George Eliot's ; in the religious life the Wycliffite and Marian martyrs, and the chief conspirator of the — Historic Warwickshire 3 Gunpowder Plot.