How much does perfect skin really cost?

Bethany Hayes Beauty brand NARS has come under scrutiny following the revelation the brand will sell in China and cease to be cruelty free. But what does this mean for makeup lovers across the country?

“Is this made from bunny tears?”

One click into cult-beauty brand NARS’ Instagram page and thousands of comments like the one above flood your eyes. Outrage is everywhere, including in the form of large-red crosses and angry eyed emojis. There’s an assortment of swear-words upsetting enough to shake a pirate. Behind the images of highlight pans, tall glass bottles of promising perfect skin and golden tubes of mascara, there is upset in the cosmetic community.

Since its ‘foundation’ in 1994, NARS , aptly named after artist Francois Nars himself, has been a brand which prided itself on being of cruelty-free nature. Cruelty free, by definition, refers to cosmetics or goods manufactured and developed by methods which do not harm animals. However, as of June this year, NARS revealed they would extend their brand to the Chinese market and bring their “vision of beauty and artistry to fans in the region”. Chinese law actually requires mandatory animal testing on all cosmetic products that are manufactured outside of China. So for brand NARS, the sale of their products in China mean the brand no longer fits the cruelty-free guidelines. For the consumers of makeup, this has been met with mixed reactions.

52 year-old Wendy Bateman stands before me in a shopping centre, the white light catching her shimmery pink blush on her cheekbones and her coral accentuating her lips. All the products on her face but one are non cruelty-free. One of them is NARS’ sheer glow foundation. Wendy states clearly that she is for animal testing, and needs to trust products going on to her skin are safe. Wendy describes her skin as fair, sensitive and allergy-prone, and animal testing has the potential to stop severe skin reactions. “I know some people would prefer makeup not to be tested on animals, but in the long run, it is safer to be tested on animals first,” she says with her eyebrows raised. Wendy says proper testing into makeup products, including those involving animals, has the potential to stop “trips to the doctor, specialist or going on antibiotics” from the skin’s reaction to makeup products.

But for 23 year-old Brittany Morrison who is completing her Bachelor of Environmental Science degree, specialising in conservation biology, NARS’ news is upsetting. She says this decision from NARS tells her the company “doesn’t care how they get their products out to the public, as long as they make money”. Morrison, who follows a vegan diet and lifestyle, says she believes animals were not put on this earth for us to use as we see fit. “If many people are against human testing why is it different for us to test on a rat or rabbit?” she says.

Passionate vegan and animal activist, Jasmine Burgess, also agreed that NARS had “taken a step backwards” and says other brands such as Mac and L’Oreal also “choose profits over being ethical” by selling in China. Jasmine said other makeup brands such as Australis, Tarte and Kat Von D are good alternatives for those looking for products which do not test on animals and are marketed as cruelty free. “Animals are here with us, not for us and any exploitation of them is unnecessary and cruel,” Jasmine says.

In Australia, there is a set of criteria for accreditation which must be fulfilled in order for a brand to even be considered as cruelty free. The brand must have been fully established for one year and sell to Australian consumers either via retail or online. The brand must also never have tested any product ingredients on animals, or at least had none tested in the last five years. If any ingredients in their products have been derived from an animal (killed specifically for the extraction of that ingredient); or been forcibly extracted from a live animal, a brand will not get accredited. Once accredited, companies are then able to take out a License to use the ‘not tested on animals’ rabbit logo for an annual fee.

In question for comment, a spokesperson from NARS released a statement. “NARS is excited to bring our vision of beauty and artistry to fans in China, consistent with our long-held commitment to empower women and men everywhere,” the statement said. It further articulated while NARS does not test on animals or ask others to do so on the company’s behalf, they do test where required by law. The statements continued by stating the company is subject to “the local laws of the markets in which we operate, including in China where products are subject to animal testing.” This statement is consistent with the NARS’ Instagram post from June 28, captioned “We hear you” in response to the mountains of negative comments filling their social media.

However People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals associate director, Ashley Fruno, says NARS going back on their “self-proclaimed cruelty free principles” is shameful. “The Chinese government requires that products be tested by forcing chemicals down animals’ throats,” Fruno says. She described the decision by NARS as something “completely unnecessary”. “Companies with a conscience will stay away from China,” Fruno says.

In the wake of this revelation, NARS’ best selling Radiant Creamy has been dubbed by some people as their “last use” while others are saying it is “too good to stop using”. But Wendy assures me with a laugh that she too will not stop using her favourite NARS sheer glow foundation because the brand is no longer cruelty free. Nor will she stop using her favourite lipstick, which is in the shade matte beauty, if you were wondering.

Regardless of the side you take, makeup is an avenue for creativity and can help an individual feel confident, unique and beautiful in their own skin.

“Makeup really is such an incredible thing,” Wendy says with a smile.